had to get a tow home tonite as my clutch cable broke just under 10 K from my house luckily 10 k is the magic free RACQ towing distance.
ive got a spare.
never replaced one before? difficult? have been dreading this day.
anyone got a good method or a website?
Nick
[ Edited on 7-9-2006 by Anthiron ]
pyr0 ·
peice of cake if the tube isnt bent mate, i took my pedal assembly apart when i did mine and cleaned it all up while i was there then i pull half of the cable out from inside the drivers compartment and pulled the rest out from under the car (on the passengers side) then i fed the cable in from the drivers compartment and hooked it up to the clutch loopy bit, mine was quiet easy to do 👍 hope that helps
Anthiron ·
cool sorry forgot to mention its on a 60s bug.
was this on a bug or a bus?
if urs is a bug then im feeling a hell of a lot better about doing it lol
helbus ·
Understandable about the bug/ bus concern, as my wife was able to change the bus clutch on her own it was that easy. Bug I would think would have a bit more time needed up the front end.
Anthiron ·
after consulting the muirs book it tells me to take the pedal assembly apart etc 🙁
i dont wanna do that if i dont have to.????
helbus ·
That's where the bus is easy as the pedal assy is fully acessable under the floor.
MickH ·
Anthiron wrote:after consulting the muirs book it tells me to take the pedal assembly apart etc 🙁
i dont wanna do that if i dont have to.????
Yep..take it apart. Or be elcheapo and get Mr. Grinder to make an access point.
Anthiron ·
well someones already taken to the passenger side of the tunnel with something. incredibly dodgily!.
maybe i should just neaten that up a bit.
shaihulud ·
What I have done in the past is to remove the whole pedal assembly. Then I drill a small hole in the tip of the clutch cable hook. I fit the new cable and wire it into place with some soft tie wire. That means that when I put the assembly back in, the cable remains attached to the hook. Easy as. Otherwise it is an infuriatingly fiddly job to get the cable onto the hook while it is in the tunnel.
The new cable is liberally greased before fitting it into the clutch tube.
While the pedal assembly is out. I strip and regrease it before putting it back in. I also drill and countersink a hole in the top of both of the pedal pivots, so that in the future a few drops of oil keeps the whole shebang lubricated.
doc5avage ·
My uncle (was a VW mechanic in his prime), rekons that every bug that came in with a broken clutch, they would cut an access panel in the tunnel. Then every time the clutch broke, the job became easy.
Menangler ·
Don't cut the access panel, do the job properly, it's not that hard, remove the pedals.
If you must, use a hole saw to cut a round hole, if it is done with a grinder and square a square hole this weakens the pan and cracks will start from the edges of the hole.
68AutoBug ·
Hi Nick
You can see some info on changing the cluch cable here
even though its done on a LHD car..:
its gotten easily to the point where its got to be about half way thru the bowden tube but now wont go any further. ive tried jiggling the bowden tube and going back and trying again etc.
what do i do now?
MickH ·
Remove/replace the tube with a better one if possible. If not take it off and thread the new cable through it and put it back on.Where did the cable break originally???
Anthiron ·
right at the end just before the adjustment thread.
Anthiron ·
ok got the tube out and cable in :thumb😵💫
just doing fine adjustments now. its looking good. fingers crossed
68AutoBug ·
The centre of the bowden tube wears as the cable is tight against the top of it...
make sure you grease liberally
Lithium based moly grease is best...
very messy though.. I use gloves..
Lee
dangerous ·
Bit late now, but it is easyer with the front seats out, for access.
Anthiron ·
yeah i took the seats out.
ok got it all back together
however now pedal is very light (very little resistance)
and when i start the car and depress the clutch i hear a whirring scraping sound and it doesnt feel like the clutch is engaged??????
Anthiron ·
help please:cry
Anthiron ·
when depressed it makes a whirring scraping/grinding sound and the engine revvs drop and the engine stalls if i leave the clutch depressed.
what the hell?
Anthiron ·
the tighter i adjust the cable the faster the engine dies when the clutch is depressed
dangerous ·
Sounds like it may be over adjusted, and the diafragm is rubbing on the disc, OR
throw out bearing has fallen off and the clutch arms are digging into the diafragm.
Make sure you can feel free play at the back gearbox arm,
(hear tic tic when you push on the gear box arm).
68AutoBug ·
The clutch cable usually break near the adjustment end, especially on the earlier models as the cable has to flex up and down every time the pedal is depressed...
[similar to accelerator cables-flexing/breaking]
the later models actually have a pivot, with the adjustable wing nut being able to move up and down in the clutch arm....
Sounds like the clutch bearing may have fallen down or self destructed...
or the clutch release bearing may be the old carbon type and has worn out....
Sorry to hear of Your problem...
only good thing... is Your baja is easy to take the engine out - compared to a sedan...
Best of Luck
Lee
Anthiron ·
yeah not too bad with 2 people but im here alone 🙁
gonna be fun.
68AutoBug ·
Yes,
I found it dangerous by Yourself...
I took My engine out by Myself last time, but I did have a VW engine trolley to sit it on, but still getting the engine out and onto the trolley by Yourself could be dangerous if anything happens...
I actually forgot to get My Son to come over and help Me.
then it was too late...
and i couldn't let go of the engine...