This is just some waffle which won't necessarily make the quiet Circuit racing section more interesting.
Now that the supersprint season has finished for this year I need to contemplate how I'm going to improve the car for next year.
Handling.
The turn-in is ferocious and the car hops through a couple of corners. I'm going to swap the rear springs from the 27mm ones and go back to type 3s.
Engine.
It's really strong and stays cool so all I'm also thinking of airboxing the carbies so the get cold air.
Safety
I've received a few comments in scrutineering about the harnesses being mounted to the floor above the gearbox. The need to be mounted higher so the straps won't pull down which means mounting them to a harness bar or below the back window.
I'm considering getting a FIA approved chromoly rollcage so I can enter some targa-type events in the future.
Gearbox
I've always maintained I'm going to make do with a stock box because that's were I draw the line on cost. However having another gear to play with would add to the fun factor and I'm sure it would be good for 1 - 2 seconds at some tracks. At every track I use 3rd everywhere except the main straight. So I'm considering a tall third gear. I've been getting a fair bit of insider rear wheel spin but I don't think the budget stretches to a LSD.
Brakes.
T1 disks and T3 drums work well on my car. i just wonder if the crumby material the drums are made from will need annual machining.
Thoughts?
CYA CT
[ Edited on 13-9-2006 by fullnoise ]
[ Edited on 8-1-2007 by fullnoise ]
[ Edited on 8-1-2007 by fullnoise ]
[ Edited on 25-3-2007 by fullnoise ]
[ Edited on 13-4-2007 by fullnoise ]
[ Edited on 7-5-2007 by fullnoise ]
[ Edited on 21-5-2007 by fullnoise ]
[ Edited on 28-5-2007 by fullnoise ]
VWCOOL ·
What makes you say the T3 drums material is crummy...? Before I started playing with discs I had a set on for about 200,000km of including some sprints and driver days and they've still got meat. What problems are you seeing?
[ Edited on 13-9-2006 by VWCOOL ]
dangerous ·
fullnoise wrote:Safety
I've received a few comments in scrutineering about the harnesses being mounted to the floor above the gearbox. The need to be mounted higher so the straps won't pull down which means mounting them to a harness bar or below the back window.
Thoughts?
CYA CT
That is interesting CT, in the dragracing rule book they ask that the harnesses actually go down at a certain angle.
The don't like level straps.
Best option is to keep them short and anchored closer to you.
That is where a good cage can solve many problems.
fullnoise ·
I distorted my old T3 drums and all I could find to replace them was Mexican ones.
The shoes wore unevely so I went to get some new linings. I took the drums so they could be matched and checkde for roundness.
I suggested some competition linings but specilized brake and clutch said the metal on the drum wasn't crash-hot and that competition linings would eat the drum in no-time. So they just gave me some linings to match the drums.
They've been excellent but you have to keep them adusted. I usually have to adjust them 1 and sometimes 2 notches after each sprint.
CYA CT
VWCOOL ·
fair enough...
Looks like you need some rear discs!! 😉
fullnoise ·
Some changes have begun. But they're just small ones for now.
I removed the el-cheapo aluminium pulley and replaced it with a heavy steel one machined by Dave Stoker.
Straight away that solved an oil leak. The aluminium pulley had become a loose fit allowing oil to get past.
The main reason for the heavy pulley is that my flywheel is too light. You should see how much has been taken off it. Last time the engine was out I tried get another one but it was all too hard. It seems the sabadusi crank has a unique 8 dowel pattern.
Heavy pulleys like the Berg Equalizer and Achiever are supposed to make the engine live longer aren't they?
Do they help torque & slow the rate at which the revs build when the tyres break traction? I hope so.
Apparently I've been running the wrong spark plugs too. I felt the engine likes plugs with a Bosch heat range of 7. When I got the NGK equivalent it was also a 7. I'm told it should be a 6 so that's what I'm about to put in.
I'm also trying Motul Competition 15w-50 instead of the Castrol GP 50 20w-50 or whatever it's called now.
Hopefully it will be a nice smooth drive from Sydney to Warwick for the drag racing at the end of the month. I think 9.7 was my previous best for the 1/8th set at Oran Park when the last VW Nationals drags was held there. I think I can knock half a second off that.
CYA CT
pete wood ·
Man, Love your car.
Listen, I've been reading the post and it made me think. I don't know what your budget is, but if you are even considering cracking open the gearbox and going to a different set of gears, doesn't it make sense to do it properly and putting a lsd in to complete it. I know the quaiffes are ridiculously exy, but the Debiasis are making some now. Maybe they are more affordable?
Anyway, just an idea. keep up the good work. 👍
JVLR ·
Interesting topic CT,..... First.harness should be mounted sholder hight.(any good scruitee will tell you that)especially if doing a log book..... Second. why a chromolly cage? very dear$$$$ wise.Depending what you are doing 4,6 etc point cage a CDS RACETECH cages are just as good and aloud to use in Targa racing.If doing Targa you will need to do a ROPs registration form....Thirdly.Budget to play with$$$$ THE BUG IS BITING HARDER:P
[ Edited on 21-9-2006 by JVLR ]
fullnoise ·
Roll Bar,
JVL just inspired me to made a quick enquiry to Bond Roll Bars.
The cost of a new 6 point mild steel cage is $800. Side intrusion bars and a harness bar are $121 each. That's $1263.
The hoop and front bars should bolt in to the existing holes used by the alloy bar. The rear bars are now designed to bolt in to the rear wheel arches and I'll probably have to trim and weld the plates to suit.
I asked about a dash bar to connect the two front bars and it wasn't recommended because it would be too close to my legs.
Gearbox.
Hi Pete, I'd love a custom ratio gearbox with a lsd but I just can't justify the cost. I had a friend who spent $6000 to do one properly. I figure I might be able to tune some of the wheel-spin out.
I'm about to change the rear suspension and I'll see what effect that has on spinning the inside rear wheel. I went for a smaller rear sway-bar last year was to reduce the inside rear wheel spin and it seemed to work.
Inside rear wheel-spin seems to be a problem at Oran Park through Suttons and coming on to the straight. At Eastern Creek it happens mainly at turn 2 and coming on to the straight again. Wakefield Park seems to be okay through the fish hook. All these bends are third gear.
How's your car going JVL? Did you fix the clutch?
CYA CT
JVLR ·
Yeah CT,all done.....3000kennedy pp with aceramic clutch.Nothing wrong with the 3 puck just changed the lot.One of the springs broke of the finger...Yep its big $$$$dollars for gearboxs thats what mind cost as well..... CT thats pretty cheap for a cage:thumb Rule of thumb that i use is,a cage is good for saftey but is better when it stiffens the chassis as well.
boof2332 ·
I have an email from Albins gears and it seems they have dropped their price. All the gearsets and mainshaft total about $1200 which I think is really cheap. LSD?? or keep a superdiff and you could have a mad box for $1500.
I have some calipers that may suit your rear...and a w lid you can have for free. I tried to give it to Paul, and as much of a taker as he is, he said another time!
Matt
dangerous ·
1200 plus gst?
core 250 to 350
labour 500+or_
LSD 2000 quaife will still spin the inside wheel on some turns
other parts like synchros and bearings ???
I woulds say about 5 to 5500 plus gst.
Find a good ZF and that will be money well spent,
but only with low power(small splines)
vw54 ·
CT i think yr right about the rear Type 3 drums the brazilian ones are crap metal as you say
You may have to hunt around for some old German drums or convert to discs
fullnoise ·
Drums vs disks
Everyone keeps saying convert to rear disks! I'm coming up with more and more reasons not to;
1. My pocket will be $800 - $1000 lighter,
2. I don't want to increase the track at the rear. The rear is already 5mm wider (When the rims are the same f & R) than the front. I can't space the fronts to compensate because there's no room left under the guards.
3. My car works well with the drums. They're perfectly proportioned and I never lock them up.
I think the secrets are to let them cool on the warm-down lap and then not put the handbrake on in the pits and allow them to cool unevenly. Keep them well adjusted and then get new linings as soon as they start to wear unevenly.
Besides I like the idiosyncrasys of Webers and brass jets and I'm starting to think that way about the drums. I like old school parts.
I'd love to see my W-decklid back one day. My '54 looks rather incomplete without it.
Gearbox
I might try and borrow a box with a LSD and do a track day. I'll see if I have $5500 more fun. Otherwise I won't bother modifying one; unless I start having reliability issues that necessitate something stronger.
W-decklid
Hi Mat. My 54 is looking rather sad without it's W-decklid. It didn't fall out of the back of your Kombi by any chance did it? Hopefully Paul will pick it up soon.
hellbugged ·
Hi CT,
i'd say the EA discs are norrower than the type 3 drums.
pretty sure the discs are within 1mm offset of the late beetle drums.
have a really good ebay contact for ea calipers (new less than $350 pair-cheaper recod- with pads!and hoses $50 pair)
i have contacts to get bootlids louvered if thats what your after to get the w back.
... snapped up a ZF diff off Samba landed for $1000 recently....they're out there still
👍
fullnoise ·
I don't know much abougt rear disk brake conversions. I just assumed the disks were bolted on to the outside of a type 3 flange or machined down type 1 drum. I thought the width of the disk mounting surface would increase the track? I suppose if you turn the flange into a hub you could bolt a disk up anywhere depending on the design. have you got any pictures?
Also, I've got standard type 1 calipers on the front and I don't like the idea of having bigger calipers at the back.
I follow Jak around the trac. He has falcon brakes on the rear and he locks the rears occasionally even though he's got type 4 front calipers.
Thanks for the offer to louver the boot lid. Have you seen the job my panel beater did to my engine lid to fit the kombi grills in it? Don't tell anyone it's not a factory cabrio lid will you now!
The thing that worries me about a ZF is that it might cause a lot of understeer. Mind you that would probably suit my current setup.
Thanks for the thoughts y'all.
CYA CT
Craig Torrens ·
Bat69 is running a ZF in his gearbox..................handles the same as my Quaife.
The softer rear setup will probably help.
VWCOOL ·
Take the drum off the drive flange and add the extra thickness of the disc and there's less than 5mm difference
You should install Type 3 twin-pins up front...
[ Edited on 27-9-2006 by VWCOOL ]
hellbugged ·
there are some pics and parts numbers etc here CT....
As Carig said, I run a ZF LSD in the rear of the beetle and I dont have an understeer problem at all. Understeer is not really a sympton of an LSD or even a CIG, the way the car is set up is. Even if an LSD (or CIG) did promote understeer, a couple of minor changes to your suspension setup and it would be fixed.
humpty ·
Hey CT.... I have some info on brakes for you....
The set-up on my Square is brilliant!
I have MAZDA RX7 4 pots ($400), and DBA Supra rotors ($95 each I think) on the front. And on the rear I have complete MAGNA discs brakes ($100).... They are very similar to EA brakes but much smaller.... I still run the OEM master cylinder. I have the OEM TIII hub on the rear, machined to fit in the disc. On the front I machined the OEM TIII disc done to make a hub and slipped the Supra rotor over that.... You will noticed I changed the PCD as well.
[ Edited on 28-9-2006 by humpty ]
wombatone ·
bat69 could you please out line the changes needed to tune out understeer. I run a quaife and far to much understeer.
fullnoise ·
Remove the bumpers.
Fit skinny front wheels.
Buy a stroker crank.
Finally bolt on the IDAs.
Raise the rear.
Weld up the diff.
Prepare to break gearboxes.
Eat more of Dave Butlers cup cakes.
CYA CT
humpty ·
fullnoise wrote:Remove the bumpers.
Fit skinny front wheels.
Buy a stroker crank.
Finally bolt on the IDAs.
Raise the rear.
Weld up the diff.
Prepare to break gearboxes.
Eat more of Dave Butlers cup cakes.
CYA CT
Sounds like your ready then....:thumb
Craig Torrens ·
And convert it back to a swinger 👍
humpty ·
Craig Torrens wrote:And convert it back to a swinger 👍
We are talking about CT here Craig.... Its not always about you! :kiss
bat69 ·
wombatone wrote:bat69 could you please out line the changes needed to tune out understeer. I run a quaife and far to much understeer.
There are numerous things which can be done to tune out understeer such as making your rear suspension harder or front softer, adjust ride heights, swab bars, wheel alignment settings. These are just a few things which you can play with.
VWCOOL ·
tyre pressure is a good/easy place to start
david777 ·
VWCOOL wrote:tyre pressure is a good/easy place to start
Can you be slightly more specific?
Front & rear pressure differences?
VWCOOL ·
Try experimenting with less in the front and more in the rear
turboL ·
I just got my cams/RTA approved cage back from bond Roll bars its made from CDW six point with several cross bars for extra strength bolt in front legs rear section welded,its a basic cage that I will run a strut brace with and it will strengthen the car enough.CDW is only marginaly heaveyer than this Chromolly crap that everyone goes on about and is half the price of a cro mo cage that needs to be homoligated by an enginerr and thats a couple of grand before they bend a bar so unless you intend racing V8 super cars or fly to the moon CDW will do cheers JS
Craig Torrens ·
turboL how much was it ? Did you need to give them your car, or did they just deliver a pre made cage?
turboL ·
Twas $2300 weld in rear section,front legs and side protection,which is just a bar are bolted in .Its solid and I can add front strut bars later.Its been welded in well and Imounting plates have been welded to the body to bolt. Im happy and safe as I intend to fast:beer
turboL ·
yeah sorry the had the car for a week or so
fullnoise ·
Hi TurboL,
What does CRW stand for? I'm into acronyms.
CYA CT
turboL ·
CDW is Cold Drawn Welded which refers to the process used to extrude the tube,its much stronger than ordinary mild steel tubing eg steel fence posts Peter at bonds can tell you more,I just gave him a simple sketch of what I wanted,but if you spend some time designing a cage to fit he will build it how you want it,I left it up to him,which in hind sight wasnt the best idea, I should have fully designed it myself as I would have done it differently but thats life and its in the car and another thing off the todo list so I cant complain
fullnoise ·
Thanks for the explanation turboL.
Can you wind the windows up and down with the front part of your cage in?
I took the front bars out of mine. I've been on some long drives in the past couple of weeks and I really appreciate being able to wind the windows up and down without having to open the door.
I'd love to run around without the cage and only bolt it in when I race. However, I think it's probably more useful on the road than on the track. There are so many morons in 4WDs & big cars that would squash my car with it's 1950's crash protection or lack of... I think the whoe car is a cumple zone. It's a pity the traffic authorities frown upon the font bars.
CYA CT
fullnoise ·
Jak and I've decided to enter CT056 in the NSW Dutton Rally in May.
This is a 3 day even t with circuit sprints, hillclimbs, motokahanas and drag racing. Events are held in Canberra at Fairburn, Goulburn Airport, Wakefield Park and Eastern Creek. I think there's even one event at night on the street in front of the Goulburn Court House.
The first thing I'm going to do is dyno the engine because I've driven it all year without properly knowing what numbers its punching out. Then, depending on the results I'll compression test it to see if the valves are sealing.
Then the engine will come apart for some head work. Unshrouding the inlet valves a little, getting a 3 angle valve job and machining the valve spring seats so there's a little more room to coil bind and then it gives me the option of running a bit more lift.
The rest of the car will need a going through including;
Machining the front rotors
Speaking to Competition Friction about the best pads to use
Replacing the alloy bar with a mild steel roll bar that includes a harness bar
Getting some 6 point harnesses and maybe some new seats
Putting the smaller springs T3 springs in the rear
Rebuilding the rear konis
Resetting the ride height so it's about 10 to 15 mm higher just for extra ground clearance and suspension travel
Building a better crank case ventilation system
I'm tossing up fitting straight cut cam gears and IDAs just becasue I can. Mind you I'll probably go back to the 44IDFs for Dutton becasue I'm familiar with them.
CYA CT
BiX ·
Yeah looks like a good event. The qld event only had 2 entries in Class J last year. Wanted to enter, but the qld event is now feb and car won't be prepped in time 🙁 . You should do well with the oval, htough make sure you have a good working hadn brake (hydraulic?)
fullnoise ·
I went to adjust the tappets yesterday and found 2 lash caps were pitted, 1 rocker screw as pitted and one pushrod was starting to compress as the hardened tips were geting pushed into the aluminium. Each was on a different cylinder!
After looking at the field in last year's Dutton rally and considering the entry fee, I don't want to reduce the liklihood of a mechanical drama even if it means rebuilding the whole drivetrain before May.
CYA CT
fullnoise ·
I put the car on the dyno today while it got a pink slip inspection.
It was a Dyno Dynamics Dyno on Shoot-out mode at Silverwater Automotive Services:
Max HP 95.8 RWHP (71.5 KW).
About 2 years ago it made 88 RWHP with unported heads, a differnt cam and more compression. Mind you in that state it was good enough to do a 14.9 at WISID. This equalled a 9.3 in the 1/8th.
I was a bit disappointed only getting 9.7 at Warwick but I was being conservative due to the long trip home.
CYA CT
[ Edited on 8-1-2007 by fullnoise ]
reub ·
Interesting to see the power output.
I've read the engine specs in VWMA May-July 2006. You're still running pretty mild heads and standard rockers?
Reason I ask is the 1916 I'm getting for my 58 is very similar in specs other than ported 043 Steve Timms heads with 40 x 35.5 valves (from memory flow 155-160 cfm), CB performance 2242 camshaft (a little milder than an engle 130), Scat procomp 1.25:1 ratio rockers and a compression ratio of 8:1.
I'm guessing mine may breath a little better so will be interesting when it's installed, run in and dynoed.
[ Edited on 9-1-2007 by reub-revhead ]
dangerous ·
Don't fret too much CT, that is pretty fair HP and the altitude of Warwick contributes to about 2 tenths slower.
On another note, I see that there is a dip in the power, and another one in the graph below it.
If that lower graph is air fuel ratio, then this needs to be corrected, and as does the slow fall at the end of the graph.
If that is a torque curve then the dip is a concern, but the torque falling away at the end is normal.
The steepness of the HP curve, and then it's "flat-ening off",
tells me that free HP is hiding in the tune up.
This is why a dyno trip can be so important.
Look at the air-fuel ratio when the power(or torque) curve is unusual, and the mixtures will tell you why.
[ Edited on 8-1-2007 by dangerous ]
fullnoise ·
Hi Guys,
The dyno run yesterday was just a benchmark and not a tuning session. I'm about to pull the engine apart to ensure reliability for the Dutton rally. If the car breaks down the exorbitant entry fees (More than a years worth of sprints with the Porsche Club!) will go to waste.
When the engine goes back together I'll invest in a proper tuning session. I just wanted to run the engine as it ran all last year so the results would relate to lap times etc.
I found that leaner mains and richer airs work better on the dyno 130 & 155.
Richer mains and airs avoid lean "white plugs" on the track in cooler temps and I run 135 & 155.
On the street in summer I run what was in the car when it was dynoed 135 & 175.
I'm glad to hear your comments Dave. I was hoping somebody with experience would analyse the graph. It really needs the air fuel ration graph and rpm scale.
I think a bit of extra timing at idle might help the inital dip in the graph. The engine feels a bit dead between 2000 and 3000 rpm. I don't know why the engine went flat up the top. If that happend at 7000rpm its due to the MSD limiter. On the track I rev the engine to about 7400.
I'll test these theories out when I get the engine back together.
I'm confident the engine will crack the 100HP mark.
CYA CT
dangerous ·
Easy.
fullnoise ·
I couldn't get the pulley off the crank and that didn't leave enough room to get the engine out of the engine bay.
I made a puller in the past and beefed it up but it just bent trying to get the heavy pulley off. No amount of prying or tapping would budge it.
A conventional puller wouldn't fit in the space provided so I made a bodgy backyard pulley puller at of scap metal and it worked a treat; first go.
Look at the amount of metal that's been taken out of the flywheel and you'll see why I decided to try a heavy pulley. Apparantley the Sabadusi crank has got a unique dowel pattern so I couldn't just bung a heavy flywheel on it.
fullnoise ·
Hi Dangerous a.k.a Dave,
When you saw a picture of my heads you suggested the inlet valves needed some unshrouding.
The area shaded in red is the area I'm looking at removing. What do you think?
Thanks CYA CT
dangerous ·
Should get some nice gains there CT!
humpty ·
There's a new business for you Dave.... Online Head Porting.
You have got a lot of fun ahead of you there CT.... For sure you'll crack the ton at your next session.... I have found in the tarmac rallies that I have competed in, that bugs need solid low down grunt in the tight stuff.... My car was always down on top end power compared to my competitors, but in the 1st and 2nd gear stuff only the mini's gave me any hassles.... With my wheel/tyre combo (less than ideal.. Rears too tall, fronts to small), in a swingaxle car, I found high tyre pressures in the front and low in the back made it EZR to get it around the witches hats.... Not so got on the fast stuff, but in carpark autokhanas it worked well for me.....
fullnoise ·
After looking at the type of events in the Dutton rally I think my hard-earned would be best spent on some tall first and second gears like the hillclimb cars.
Following that I'll have to reduce the negative camber and use the narrower 195/55R15 (10 mm narrower than 195/50R16 believe it or not) tyres to get enough lock to get around the witches hats.
Judging by the lap times from last year we should give some of the modern cars a bit of a fright.
CYA CT
BiX ·
hydraulic handbrake......... From watching the qld event, would be a worthwhile investment. and you can do it so it works of your std handbrake and still has the cabels connected to keep it legal
fullnoise ·
Hi Bix,
I don't think the hand brake option would suit the current plan. Neither Jak or I have much experience doing handbrake turns in our cars.
In the super sprints we may be able to beat 1/4 to 1/3 of the field, which would be giant killing effort, because we've been supersprinting on the circuits for years.
With all the events the plan would probably be to err on the side of caution. If we have one spin and stall we could lose 30 seconds or more which would be impossible to make up. Hopefully other people will get over enthusiastic and spin, which will let a little old beetle pass them in the overall results.
I split the case today and removed the valves from the head. Every component looks fine but the main rib of the case is shiney suggesting it's shuffling with the high rpms.
I've never looked at gear ratios before but here's what I'm thinking:
595mm tyre OD & a 4.375 ring and pinion & 7000rpm
2.82 first
1.86 second
stock 3rd & 4th !1.26 & 0.89.
That means 64 km in first for tight turns close to the start such as Fairburn hillclimb (perhaps) and motokahanas. 96 km in 2nd meaning I'll have the option of dropping it back to second in a couple of corners I've had to chug out of in third previously. Also if I rev the engine a bit harder it will make for a bitch'n 0 - 100 time. I'm happy with the current 3rd & 4th. 3rd pulls hard at the right revs in most corners and changing into 4th snaps the neck sufficiently and has enough legs down eastern creek straight (6300rpm is the highest I've seen when I have the guts to take my eyes of the entry into turn 1).
I don't know if the engine will bog down too badly with such a tall first. Hopefully one of the experienced campaigners will shine some light on that.
Dutton will be a huge effort. It will probably be the biggest event I ever do with the car. It's certaily the most expensive. I'm pretty nervous about it and I want to make sure the car is prepped as much as it can be without having to rush.
Am I boring your socks off yet?
CYA CT
[ Edited on 26-1-2007 by fullnoise ]
fullnoise ·
I pulled the heads off and layed back the sharp lumps between the spark plug threads and where the valve seat cutter installed the seats. I can't believe those dodgy areas weren't cleaned up by DRD who did the heads.
I also had a good look at the valve seats. The arm chair expert I showed them to thinks a 3 angle valve job will not only add horsepower but improve driveability and make jetting the carbs easier (not that they're hard but as the dyno revels there may be more in it).
I've decided to replace all the bearings in the engine as cheap insurance. They looked scored but didn't feel it. I don't know if it's because some grit was left in the engine from the coil-bind / lifter drama following the previous build or if its a result of the oil light come on 4 times last year. Two were due to front oil cooler problems and 2 were due to oil surge on the race track which occurs around right-hand turns when the oil level is too low.
I've been playing with a gear ratio calculator which is a great thing. I looked at the dyno run I did just before pulling the engine apart and converted the MPH in third to revs.
The graph starts at 2800rpm and dips between about 3200 to 3700 where it climbs at a 45 degree angle until 4300 rpm where it gets steeperl. Then, strangely at 5100 it peaks and flattens to about 6500 as the torque drops away.
I don't know why the graph flattens out. I think an investment in a dyno tuning session to iron out the dip and try and get the power curve to keep climbing will be money well spent.
At least the engine is making 80 RWHP at 4400 and 90+ from 5000 to 6500.
Here's what I worked out on the gear ratio calculator. I'll list the ratio foolwed by road speed at 7000 rpm and the rev drop into the next gear:
1st 3.78 gear 31kmph change to second drops to 3815 rpm
2nd 2.06 gear 86kmph change to third drops to 4282
3rd 1.26 gear 142kmph change to fourth drops to 5167
4th 0.93 gear can pull 192kmph
Now if I change to a taller 3.0 first and 2.0 second I'll be able to do 59kmph in 1st change gear at 7000 and the revs will drop to 4667 and then do 89.6kmph in 2nd and the revs will drop to 4410 when I change into third while the change into 4th will remain the same.
Providing I can get the car off the line each gear change should drop the revs into an 80+ horsepower area of the power curve.
They're not perfect but the main reason for the tall first is to use it for motokahamas and hillclimbs.
CYA CT
dangerous ·
Hi CT,
I have been thinking about your gear ratios and thought I would add a little bit of info that I have found to help.
The first thing I'd like to confirm is that the tyre you run is 595mm and that your diff ratio is 4.375.
If this is the case, your .931 4th gear is very low for highway use. ( I get 3622 rpm @ 100km/h)
Anyhow, that is not a major concern.
What I wanted to share, was the rev drops between each gear, are best reduced as you go to each higher gear.
eg, the rev drop from 1 to 2 would be the biggest,
then 2 to 3 would be a bit less,
and then 3 to 4 less again.
If you do the sums on the factory gears you will see that this is what they have done.
So what this brings me to is that the 3.0 to 2.0 gear set is very close by comparison to many,
which is good, and I like the choice of ratio.
But then when you step up to 3rd, there is quite a large reduction in revs. (bigger reduction than 1 to 2).
3rd to 4th is very good, infact you may be able to sacrifice a bit of this and make a lower 3rd ratio.
BUT!!!
This may upset your car on certain tracks.
I know you said that you were happy with the current 3rd and 4th for you application.
The way you have calculated your rev drop and layed that over your dyno page is excellent,
and a sure way to see that you will have no-problems with the ratios that you have chosen.
To make the rev drops a little more gradual, a 1.35 3rd gear would make the 2 to 3 step just a tad smaller(32.5%)
than 1 to 2 (33%).(yet still keep 3 to 4 the smallest rev drop of all of them 31%)
For comparison a 40hp beetle has 36% in 2 to 3 and 32.4% between 3 and 4.
1500 beetle has 38.8% between 2 and 3(ouch) but nice 29.4% between 3 and 4.
But as I mentioned, this ratio may upset certain parts of tracks where you buzzed through in 3rd before,
and of course, it increases the step between 3 and 4, which may also upset your driving style.
All I ask is you take these Ideas on board when you think about your combo,
and make sure you know what you have in there CURRENTLY before you buy gears that may not suit your style.
[ Edited on 4-2-2007 by dangerous ]
[ Edited on 28-5-2007 by dangerous ]
fullnoise ·
Hi Dave,
Thanks for such a detailed response.
The 1.35 third looks nice on the gear ratio calculator.
I don't think it would be a problem on the track. There would be gains where the lower 3rd gear would have the engine at a better part of the power curve when exiting about 4 corners that I can think of. However it would also mean a few more gear changes in areas I've been able to hold 3rd in the past. But then again the new rev drop into 4th is also likely to land in an area producing more torque.
I spoke to Rams Head Services today after having them recommended to me from 2 completely different sources. The guy seemed genuinely interested and knowledgable on the phone. He wanted to check the heads out complete so his work on the valves would last.
CYA CT
Craig Torrens ·
Do you want to sell your ally cage?
fullnoise ·
Hi Craig,
The steel cage got too expensive so I decided to keep the alloy cage for the time being. I wanted a harness bar which couldn't be added to a kit only a custom install done by Bond themselves. This added over $600 to the bill which pushed the proposed 6 point cage up to the $2000 mark. The budget will go towards a good seat, new harness and a gearbox instead.
What do you think of my proposed gear ratios? 595mm tyres, 4.375 r & p 3.0 / 2.0 / 1.35 / 0.93?
CYA CT
Craig Torrens ·
What did Rams head service think of your DRD heads?
fullnoise ·
Here's what RAMS thought of the Aircooled.net level 5 heads by DRD.
The so called "racing valve job'; the valves were contacting the wrong part of the seats and the angles were all wrong. It was only a single angle valve job.
The flow bench results were "nothing to rave about"!
I'll post the chart when I get it.
Remember these heads were supposed to be 043s but they sent 040. They were stet up to coil bind at .520 lift. Considet that the engle cam card says you need .090 to coil bind. That means they were suitable for cam with only .439 lift while the sales pitch says they're designed for valve lift from .450 to .500.
Both John Connoly and DRD recommended, before I purchased the heads, that I run them with a Webcam 109 with 1.25 rockers. That's .525 lift. That's beyond coil bind on the heads they recommended to me.
Wankers!
VWCOOL ·
Americans...
That sux dude
Jeza ·
I think that is one of the reasons some people give up on the VW engine and fit a Subi.
To get the performance and reliability is increasingly becoming more and more hard work, cause the parts that you buy aren't as they are often advertised. I have friends purchase heads off CB and discover that they are different casting, and that the rocker arms don't fit over the studs!
How are the rest of the preparations going CT?
Cheers
Jeremy
[ Edited on 23-3-2007 by Jeza ]
fullnoise ·
I took a day off yesterday and Jak and I started the engine build and installed the new gearbox. It's now a single side-plate box with 3.0 first, 2.0 second, 1.35 third and the standard 0.93 fourth remains standard. The ring and pinion is a 4.37 as before. I also pulled apart the CVs, cleaned and reassembled them.
It should be back on the road next Saturday providing there are no hiccups.
I've sent the entry off.
The Sup Regs are out and there are 36 events over 3 days and we'll be travelling over 1000 kilometers. Jak will be driving 18 of those.
I'm already nervous!
Jeza ·
Nice,
You guys are going to have a blast!
Good luck to you both, and keep us posted 👍
Cheers
Jeremy
VWCOOL ·
It's good to 'have a go' but situations like this highlight why it's good to go to an engine builder who knows all the tricks, knows all the products, knows all the sh*t, knows what works with what and what doesn't - especially when the big bucks are involved
[ Edited on 23-3-2007 by VWCOOL ]
Craig Torrens ·
I hate when you don't get what you pay for..........
Should be a great event CT.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
My biggest beef with a lot of the US aftermarket gear i have bought, used or seen is the way they love to have all these sloppy clearances. Piston to barrel clearances, base circles on cams etc etc. Sometimes it just works out cheaper to get it done here by professional engine builders who give you what you need and want. there is nothing more annoying than hearing a rattling noisy VW engine and people tell you that is how they are. the 2l type 4 in my Kombi was as quiet as a mouse with all the stuff I had done to it, no rattles etc etc hence with the custom exhaust system I used to get the comment of it's not a VW engine.
It does suck when this sort of thing happens CT as you fork out the $$ for quality bits and they are sub par. Hope you can sort it all out without having to spend too much extra money.
By the way I love your car and what you do with it. A man after my own heart. Looks the part and has the go to match. Top work!!!
Intake port design Mini-D port
Exhaust port design looks stock
[ Edited on 25-3-2007 by fullnoise ]
[ Edited on 25-3-2007 by fullnoise ]
Craig Torrens ·
how does that compare with your old heads ?
dangerous ·
Is that with 25"or 28" pressure drop CT ?
fullnoise ·
Hi Dave,
There is a column heading for "Depression". At each valve lift increment it reads 28.00 which could be 28" because I can't find any other reference. What do you think?
There's also readings for "Swirl" and "Temp" if that's of any use.
Regards
fullnoise ·
I had a busy saturday building the engine. The rods had done a lot of kilometers. It even looks like they were in a stroker before they were put in the rolled superbug that I got the engine out of over 10 or so years ago. So I decided to replace them. I was going to get some more standard rods reconditioned with ARP bolts but that was going to cost over $400. So I thought I'd get some new ones.
The CB Super Race Rods weigh only 6 grams less than the stock rod. I was expecting more. But the weight is reduced from the small end which is important I'm led to believe. I think the stock weight was 570g and the CB one was 564g or something like that according to the kitchen scales.
fullnoise ·
I hope I don't see any of these parts for at least 3 years. Mind you I probably won't be able to help my self. I love tinkering with the engine.
The rods were the only thing I replaced. The cam and lifters look good. Bless the standard lifters.
[ Edited on 26-3-2007 by fullnoise ]
dangerous ·
Hi CT, is that a Sabadusi crank?
Swirl is important, and VW style heads typically are very good,
but I have no data for comparison.
The temperature is normally used to correct the data
so that each lift can be compared to a standard, and/or each other.
Some times the air's temp rises higher (during the test) at one lift than another,
so this evens things out.
Yes the "depression" figure will mean 28" and relates to the size of the suck.
Our bench uses up to 15" since it is only a small unit, but I can do a conversion
to make a relevant comparison.
There seems to be plenty of room for improvement, but that flow figure should be good for up to 140fw(120wheel?) hp if it was flowed with manifold and carb.
Of course this is only if the engine is optimised and has enough compression.
what valve size?
For comparison with 44mm valve we have seen 167cfm with stock port flange size,
and 200 with large welded port is common.
Some of the best ones are 210 and the best VW head I have seen with 48 inlet valve(moved exhaust guide) cracked 225 at .500" lift(testing my memory)
These figures were at .500" but they normally flow more at higher lifts.
fullnoise ·
The valves are 40 x 35.5 and the head was flowed with the manifold but not the carb.
The theory behind choosing these heads was that I wanted something to suit the engine capacity rather than something hogged out to feed a big stroker.
I was looking for airspeed though the ports rather than just volume. I've seen some disappointing results from large valve and large port heads on the same size engines. The same engine with same CR only made 76 RWHP with my 44mm valve street eliminators; however the valves were shrouded and the ports were rough.
One thing RAMS mentioned when I dropped the heads in was that there was a sharp edge on the inside of the exhaust port. I explained that where the heads are from. He responded that the yanks don't often bother doing much with the exhaust port.
[ Edited on 26-3-2007 by fullnoise ]
Gracey ·
CT, were the heads flowed before or after RAMS did any work on them?
Andrew
fullnoise ·
After. So that's with the 3 angle valve job which would've improved the flow.
What heads did you decide on?
Gracey ·
I haven't dicided yet, I'll probably go with an 044 style, mainly for strength and longevity. I know which heads I'm not buying though.
Funny thing is there's a thread on Cal Look Forum at the moment saying how good DRD is.
Makes you wonder if they sent us the shit because it's not worth returning it.
It'll be interesting to see your results with your reworked heads.
dangerous ·
Have you tried out the new gearing yet CT?
fullnoise ·
Hi Dave,
The engine will go back together tonight. The engine will go back in the car tomorrow. Hopefully Jak and I will take it for a test run late on Saturday.
I just need to pick up one new CV joint and a couple of new Yamaha rocker screws today.
We're entered in the NSW Dutton Rally as car number 59. There's no turning back now.
fullnoise ·
NSW Dutton Rally Event Schedule for car #59. There are 36 or so events and the driver does half and the co-driver does the same circuits as the driver. It should be a fun few days.
Friday 25th May
AM- FAIRBAIRN PARK HILL CLIMB – Sutton Rd, Queanbeyan
9 SONIC PROMOTIONS Hill Climb
10 Hill Climb
SUTTON ROAD COMPLEX - Sutton Rd, Queanbeyan
11 VMA Auto Test
12 Skid Pan
13 VMA Auto Test
14 Skid Pan
PM WAKEFIELD PARK – Braidwood Road, Goulburn
1 ALPHERA FINANCIAL SERVICES Auto Test 1 - Short Circuit
2 THRIFTY CAR RENTALS Auto Test 2 - Short Circuit
3 PITMAN TRUCK SALES Hill Climb
4 Auto Test 1 - Short Circuit
5 Auto Test 2 - Short Circuit
6 EQUITRAC Hill Climb
EVENT NO GOULBURN AIRPORT – Airport Road, Goulburn
7 HOGS BREATH CAFE 800m Sprint
8 800m Sprint
Saturday 26th May
AM SUTTON ROAD COMPLEX - Sutton Rd, Queanbeyan
19 VMA Auto Test
20 Circuit Auto Test 1
21 Circuit Auto Test 2
22 Skid Pan
23 VMA Auto Test
24 Circuit Auto Test 1
25 Circuit Auto Test 2
26 Skid Pan
FAIRBAIRN PARK HILL CLIMB – Sutton Rd, Queanbeyan
17 Hill Climb
18 Hill Climb
PM WAKEFIELD PARK – Braidwood Road, Goulburn
15 COMPETITION FRICTION Long Circuit Sprints
16 Long Circuit Sprints
Sunday 27th May
EASTERN CREEK INTERNATIONAL RACEWAY – Brabham Drive, Eastern Creek
36 Figure 8 Circuit
27 TRACKCORP Full Circuit
28 ROAD SENSE Skid Pan
29 . Mile Sprints – WSID
30 . Mile – Reaction Time
31 Figure 8 Circuit
32 TRACKCORP Full Circuit
33 Skid Pan
The engine is in the car now. I just need to make some new pushrods and fit the carbs and exhaust. Fingers crossed that everything was put together properly.
Craig Torrens ·
be interested to see what times you do at the Fairbairn Hillclimb.
fullnoise ·
I'm driving the car to commute too and from work this week and hopefully I'll fit in a wheel alignment to get more lock out of the steering and a dyno tune to help with jetting and total timing advance.
The gears are fun, fun, fun!
First is tall. It's not hard to get off the line but you do need more revs and you need to be more conscious of the clutch release. Then the car just pulls hard and comfortably.
Second takes some getting used to. At first it felt like the clutch was slipping or that the wheels were spinning because I've never changed into such a close rev range when the car is really on song. With only a 2000 rpm rev drop second and third are gone in no time, the traffic is miles behind and you change into fourth looking for another 2 gears because it's so fun and you just want to keep accelerating.
Thanks to those who gave me their advice on the gearbox. It was money well spent!
VWCOOL ·
yeah after spending a tuiny amount of time in CR-equipped Hill Climb cars a close-ratio cogbox is on my list of 'dreams' but I'll have to stick with a 3.8 diffed stocko for year or two when my new big-balls 1916 arrives
Turning lock is real problem on BJ cars with 6-inch rims and lotsa camber, isn't it?
Guy_H ·
CT - We will be there in Either the Red Golf or Red Polo - say hi. Any help you can give us on the NSW tracks will be appreciated!
fullnoise ·
Hi Guy,
Tips on Wakefield, Fairburn & Eastern Creek no problem.
Have you seen the entrant list? Gulp!
Most of the cars models are followed by the letters EVO, STI, GTR or HSV. Then there are those followed by letters and a numbers such as M5, M3, XR8 & GT3.
Hopefully there's an award for the oldest car or smallest engine capacity!
It should be a hoot. I'm planning on a larger pant size for each day due to all the catering!
Regards
VWCOOL ·
fullnoise wrote:I'm planning on a larger pant size for each day due to all the catering!
Regards
lol... Catering - or some other pants-filling experience?!
fullnoise ·
I gave the car and a box of jets to SAS in silverwater yesterday to make sure the engine wasn't running to rich or lean at any point in the rev range and to see if they could squeeze any more out of the engine.
My goal was 100 rear wheel horsepower. SAS tried a whole host of jets, emulsion tubes and played with the total timing. In the end they smoothed out the HP curve a bit and improved the top end and I ended up with 99.9 RWHP. Just 0.01 HP off my goal.
That was with the full size pulley. I plan to run with the power pulley for the Dutton Rally. I think that's worth half a horsepower from memory. We tested it once at CB. So there we go a bee's d!@k over 100 reliable rear wheel HP and there's no more in it!
That's engine and gearbox done. Now on to the wheel alignment and brake check and swaybar fitment and the car is ready mechanically.
Regards
[ Edited on 2-5-2007 by fullnoise ]
Guy_H ·
fullnoise wrote:Hi Guy,
Tips on Wakefield, Fairburn & Eastern Creek no problem.
Have you seen the entrant list? Gulp!
Most of the cars models are followed by the letters EVO, STI, GTR or HSV. Then there are those followed by letters and a numbers such as M5, M3, XR8 & GT3.
Hopefully there's an award for the oldest car or smallest engine capacity!
It should be a hoot. I'm planning on a larger pant size for each day due to all the catering!
Regards
Ah - don't worry too much about them! - Our Polo only has 1.8 litres and pumps out about 250+ hp.
Enjoy it, have fun, have a couple of beers & kick back.
most of them come undone on the motorkhana's - they go all out & spend thousands to cut .0001 of a second off a lap time & then blow 20 seconds by missing a cone on the tight stuff!
Gracey ·
Hey CT, congrats on the HP.
That's good HP for a 40mm valve on a 1916.
Couple of questions -
What final jetting and emulsion tubes did you end up with?
And where was peak HP and torque made?
fullnoise ·
After trying plenty of jets and emulsion tubes to iron out the dip at 3000rpm without hurting the top end we ended up with the same jets I was running for the street 135 main and 175 air with F11s which is what the carbs come with.
The horsepower-hurting richness comes from reversion or fuel stand-off and there's nothing we can do about it. That doesn't matter because I intend to race between 4000 and 7000 rpm.
I ran the power pulley on Saturday and there was minimal effect on the oil temps. So that's what I'm going to run in the Dutton. Now I can claim over 100 RWHP (just).
Gracey ·
Good info.
Thanks
noslug ·
fullnoise wrote:After trying plenty of jets and emulsion tubes to iron out the dip at 3000rpm without hurting the top end
Looking at the graph and your comment, did you try lowering the float level to stop the mains coming in to early ? Seems to be at that transition point its going rich.
fullnoise ·
Hi Adrian,
Yeah I might try that at a later date.
Do you mean adjusting the float so that it shuts off the fuel supply at the needle and seat when the float is at a lower level. That means the fuel level won't be so high in the float bowl or in the emulsion tubes.
I have a bigger than stock needle and seat so perhaps the fuel level stays high for too long?
Regards
55slug ·
Yep, as per your description. Itll take a bit more vacuum to pull the fuel through delaying the mains slightly. The bigger needle and seat will allow a quicker recovery but wont affect the float level.
Looks like you are having fun though CT !!
fullnoise ·
Rebuilt engine. Check
Rebuilt gearbox. Check
Rebuilt brake caliipers and drums. Check
Rebuild CV joints. Check
Engine up to temperature. Check.
Pastizzis in engine bay for 15 minutes? Check
Note to chef - go for fan-forced next time.
[ Edited on 21-5-2007 by fullnoise ]
pete wood ·
Good luck guys. Kick butt! 👍
Dasdubber ·
Best of luck CT - hope the scrutineering (and more importantly the racing!) goes to plan! Be safe and have fun. :thumb
Alan
Flintstones ·
Good luck to both you and Rizzo.
With a beautifully presented Oval I hope you do great 🙂
Cheers
fullnoise ·
There are 3 categories Drivers, Co-drivers and Crews (Driver and co-driver combined).
There's also outright and handicap which takes into account cars from different classes. We were in the under 3.0 litre rear wheel drive class which included a 1969 rally prepared Porsche Carerra running a 3.0 motor, a Lotus Exige and a 200HP Ford Escort.
Handicap Placings
Crew 11th out of 73 cars
Driver 21st out of 90 cars
Co-drivers 6th out of 72 cars
In Class
Driver 4th out of 6 cars
Co-driver 2nd out of 6 cars
Rookies Outright (No Handicap)
Crew 8th out of 25
Driver 18th out of 31
Co-driver 7th out of 33
Both the car and the drivers performed well beyond our own expectations.
I have my own highlights and Jak has his. I hope he'll remember his login and post them.
I did my best ever time around Wakefield Park with a 1:15.0 and the car did it's best quarter mile time of 14.6 and my 2:01 around Eastern Creek must be close to my best. I came 16th outright out of 90+ cars in one auto test.
It is the best event. There's no waiting around. It's non stop action for 8 hours a day for 3 days. The other competitors were really friendly and loved the little old veedub.
The car had to put up with 73 5000 rpm launches and hard wheels spinning gear changes. I would bounce off the 7000 rpm limiter up to 5 or 6 times in some runs because there was no time to look at the tacho. Some runs were so tight they required first gear all the way.
We hit 5800rpm in to gear at the air strip and 6500 in top gear down the Eastern Creek straight.
We covered over 1500 kilometres and the only mechnical work was a tappet adjustment, changing a needle and seat in one carby and bleeding the rear drum brakes.
The most amazing thing was how the beetle performed amongst such high powered and highly modified expensive modern sports cars.
I recommend doing this rally it's f@$king awesome.
There were a few water cooled veedubs in the event and they also put on a good show. Guy Hardings 14 second polo was a weapon! It's a pity we only got to chat to Guy on the last night of a frantic 3 days when we were feeling weber weiry and worse for wear.
Regards
Doug Sweetman ·
congrats, top results and top writeup..... so jealous, would love to do something like this one day....
The amazing thing is your car is so capable and always impeccably presented as well.
11CAB ·
So your 99.9hp Bug does 14's and Guys 250+hp Polo does 14's..........:P
dangerous ·
Super effort CT!
Go the Volksies!!
pete wood ·
congrats guys. I'm now seriously considering this somewhere down the track. i'll have to start plotting to get it round the missus. 🤪
Guy_H ·
good Job CT / Jak - !
We were happy we were first Volksie home Outright and we relly stuck it to a lot of different cars.
Our throttle body died on the morning of day two so it restricted our launching to either 500 rpm or 5000 plus RPM - so needless to say we murdered two tyres by lunchtime on Saturday.
First time we have ever seen wakefield and ran 1.16's (had to pass a new Aston Martin on one) and we managed Eastern Creek in 122 secs first ever time around.
Only ran a 15.8 then a 14.4 quarter (1st one was a full stall & restart) but the second 14.3 (co driver) had a 3 second 60 foot, and a 99mph trap. Bit of a problem our 5k launches!
Ran 52.'s at fairburn hillclimb - what an awesome little track!
We beat the beetle on outright crew by one point! (Our car was red, so therefore faster!) I was two spots above CT, but Jak beat my Co-driver (Jeff) by two spots - very close!
Don't know if we will go to the VIC event, but would love to see the bug in the next QLD one (where we know the tracks 🙂 ) - If you want to come up, we will organise the support crew for you!
fullnoise ·
Hey Guy,
The close results are interesting because the cars couldn't be more different. A polo is like a traditional VW going in reverse? Mind you the way your mum flew past us on the freeway it was more like we were going in reverse.
Thanks for offering track support for the Queensland Dutton next year. That's got the cogs turning in my head.
I've had a bit more time to look at the results. My best was actually in the lamest event. I came 9th outright in the quarter mile reaction time. Mind you that's because I had that Aston Marten to try and beat. He just pipped me at the post! I thought I had him which would've put a dampener on the P1 club to which it belonged!
Hopefully we'll catch up at Warwick.
Regards CT
fullnoise ·
Unfortunately they didn't have a radar gun at the 800 meter airport sprint to measure our top speed.
But it doesn't matter, we found our own just after Lake George (Or should it just be called George now?) on the way back to Sydney on Saturday night!
dangerous ·
fullnoise wrote:Unfortunately they didn't have a radar gun at the 800 meter airport sprint to measure our top speed.
But it doesn't matter, we found our own just after Lake George (Or should it just be called George now?) on the way back to Sydney on Saturday night!
DOH!
BiX ·
Might have to try and make it two beetles in qld next year!
fullnoise ·
Hmmm Queensland would be interesting. What a great way to get to race on some new tracks.
Guy, we could do "Team Veedub"?
We didn't get a ticket passing that cop. We travelled at about 100km/h on the freeway because with the .89 4th, 4.375 ring and pinion and small 195/55R15 tyres the poor old thing is sitting on 4000 rpm. Actually the engine didn't mind it but my head did.
I'm still grinning like a fool from the event. I can't wait to see the photos.
Jak is beavering away on a big fat article for the next issue of VMA.
CYA
debiasi4 ·
well done ct looks like you had a great time, might have to look at doing the vic event next year, the classic adelaide is geting bloody expensive
whats the entry fee for the dutton
adam
VWMA Editor ·
I'm still grinning after CT rang me Monday night to give me the results. Nothing short of brilliant guys! Just goes to show that a spanner and a screwdriver in the right hands can still tune a car to perform. The four page spread is ready and waiting guys.
fullnoise ·
Hi Craig,
You think you're grinning! I think my face will be stuck like this. We're still waiting on some shots from the event photograper. In the mean time I've put some of the shots from our cameras up on thesamba.com in the Oval gallery.
Hi Adam,
Thanks for your words of encouragement before the event. The entry fee is about $2000 for driver alone or $2700 for driver and co-driver. They make you buy a event specific first aid kit which costs another $80. But you do get some cool clothing and the whole event is catered for so you don't have to shell out for food during the event. Extra costs include accommodation and fuel.
The car cost a bit to prepare with the various component rebuilds to be on the safe side and to by a couple of spare R-spec tyres.
We wouldn't have done it without contributions from our sponsors McKinnon Properties, Jiyano Clothing & Merchandise, Volkswagen Magazine Australia and Impact Flags.
Thanks again Craig. Jak has written the first page of the story. He goes into a few bits about scrutineering the night before when we felt like fish out of water driving through the full car park of exotic and highly modified race cars.
[ Edited on 31-5-2007 by fullnoise ]
dangerous ·
Didn't you go for the .93 fourth gear CT?
bat69 ·
Congrates CT & Jak on your over all results. What were your times for the events in comparision to the other cars. i.e hillclimb times at Fairburn / wakefield park, motokhana times etc.
I was the happiest with event 19. The car seems to be the most competitive in Motokahana style Auto Tests even though neither Jak or I had ever driven one before the event.
The Wakefield Park hillclimb was one of the most fun things we did. I enjoyed my 2 runs there even though I've never done it before. I wasn't sure if the gearbox would go back into first at speed so we just kept it in second. We didn't want to damage it on the first day of competition.
Look at the second photo and see if you can pick the car that doesn't fit in!
[ Edited on 31-5-2007 by fullnoise ]
[ Edited on 31-5-2007 by fullnoise ]
[ Edited on 31-5-2007 by fullnoise ]
VWCOOL ·
yeah, great work flying the VW flag, I keep saying 'next year' for these events so will have to 'Just Do It' and 'make it happen'!
Guy_H ·
yeah boys, your times at Wakefield & Eastern Creek were great!
The reaction time was an event my wife won in QLD in the Polo - she has the biggest motorsport trophy in the house!
The old beetles still go well in the classic events. VW team for sure next time!
One of our customers was in a chipped Jetta FSI on street tyres - they did really well too - goes to show you need to finish & be consistent to place well!
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
CT your car did make a fleeting camera shot on the footage shown of the rally today in Qld. Similiar to the pic shown above with the Porshce etc etc all lined up and i spotted your car straight away in the line up(you were about the 4th car back from memory!!)