I have started refurbishment of a 67 bug.. (East Sydney)
The list of things I need advice on is growing.. Here goes..
I intend to do a body off restoration.. I have replacement doors, guards, engine lid.. Should I refit the body parts BEFORE I take the body off the pan? I am just worried that the shell will flex off the pan and fitting them will be a drama..
Once I have the shell off.. should I send it to a blaster/stripper.. Should the body parts be on or off the shell?
The vehicle is a 6v.. I want/need to rewire the whole car.. Where should I take it?
I guess the g/box is the the stock box.. I am fitting a 1916. Any problems? Should I upgrade g/box?
The sequence I intend to do the work is as follows.. Any tips?
Remove engine
Strip
Remove old panel parts and fit donor parts
Body off pan
Send shell to paint stripper
Remove front beam and send for disc conversion
Send bumpers for re-chroming
Clean, repair, pan and running gear. Replace all worn parts (bump stops, seals, shocks etc)
Use POR15 or Silver Bullet to coat pan?
Replace engine (1916) onto pan
Replace front beam
Fit Britax roof onto shell
Cut/repair rust from shell and paint
Refit painted shell onto pan
Refit panel parts with new rubbers
Refit windows
Rewire
Retrim interior
Fit brightware, electrics (sound system)
The list is endless.. I really appreciate some advice from members that have completed a high quality body off resto..
The vehicle is for my son and I would like to deliver finished in mid December.. The finished product will be British racing green, tan leather interior, old school brightware (towel rail bumpers, chorme strips etc) with radar wheels.
As I have limited time, I will be only doing the stripping and re-assembly myself.. All other work I will outsource so trades/tips contacts would be great..
Thanks Rob
[ Edited on 30-9-06 by StenGuns ]
Bizarre 路
Hmmmmm................you forgot to paint it before you put it back together 馃檮
I have a bunch of procedure related issues to figure out.. eg; I may have to repair heater channels and thought that I would have to take the body off first.. however I've been told to repair "on the pan" otherwise I would never get the fit right.. I can't see how to repair without removing the shell though..
Then there's things like what to do first.. I guess you would do the interior trim before you refit the glass etc..
Would be great to get my hands on a book or site that has the step by step procedure..
I also want to refer to dasdubbers original resto but searched for it and can't locate.. Not sure what early procedures he mentioned though..
Bizarre 路
Do a search for Che Castro and Black Betty
Jon did (well .... is 馃槒) a body off.
He did the heater channels. Welded a pip if 50mm tube in to hold every thing square and did them. Doors shut like a bought one when finished.
StenGuns wrote:I also want to refer to dasdubbers original resto but searched for it and can't locate.. Not sure what early procedures he mentioned though..
Mate, go to this site as it has all photos I took of the restoration and has them in a chronological order within each sub album. http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/album95
I will reply to your questions shortly.
Cheers
Alan
Dasdubber 路
Should I refit the body parts BEFORE I take the body off the pan? I am just worried that the shell will flex off the pan and fitting them will be a drama.. I personally took all body parts off first (doors, bonnet, decklid, guards etc) - much lighter that way two people could lift it off. I had no flexing issues but my heater channels were okay.
Once I have the shell off.. should I send it to a blaster/stripper.. Should the body parts be on or off the shell? Again I can only comment on my experience but next time around I will strip the large flat panels (doors, roof, quarters etc) by hand either with paint stripper or strip discs on angle grinder. Then off to the blasters to get all the awkward spots that are less susceptible to warping. Either that or go to an experienced blaster who does a lot of cars and whom you can possibly get recommendations from others who have used them. In regards to parts on or off the shell - definitely off in my opinion.
The vehicle is a 6v.. I want/need to rewire the whole car.. Where should I take it? Not sure where to take it - I rewired my ragtop from scratch but it is time consuming - since time is your limiting factor, finding a suitable autoelectrician would be essential. I'd suggest maybe contacting local hot rod clubs to see if they can lead you to the right person (if someone from AVD can't help with a recommendation) - generally hot rod guys are pretty particular with not only function, but also appearance.
I guess the g/box is the the stock box.. I am fitting a 1916. Any problems? Should I upgrade g/box? Providing the bellhousing doesn't need to be clearanced for the larger flywheel (ring-gear teeth may interfere with inner bellhousing), should be no dramas. However, it really depends on how hard you push it. It is easier to upgrade whilst everything is out (engine etc) but depends on how much money you want to invest.
The sequence I intend to do the work is as follows.. Any tips?
I see no problems with your plan of attack, definitely trial fit the donor panels before you send it off for stripping and body work. Unfortunately everything takes longer than you think and costs more than you think - December will be a hard task but definitely achievable providing the tradesmen/women you utilise will be able to stick to time lines (ie. no unexpected nasty surprises). Best of luck, if you have any more specific questions I am happy to try and help out.
Cheers, Alan
[ Edited on 17-9-2006 by Dasdubber ]
Dasdubber 路
Sorry about the bold type - bit hard to read in hindsight.
Bizarre 路
you doing discs???
good idea with a 1916
StenGuns 路
Alan.. Sensational feedback.. thanks.. I'll be back with questions
Bizaarre.. disc conversion to front beam.. I was leaving the rear stock though..
I need advice on the 6v to 12v electrics.. eg; Can I fit a later wiper assembly or do I run a resistor.. Preferably want a later wiper (two speed).. I hazard that the only issue may be the spacing/distance between the stem holes
Dasdubber 路
I haven't done a two speed conversion yet but always thought of it. If you do keep the stock 6V wipers, you can either replace the armature with a 12V one (available from classicveedub and other places I'm sure)....or do the most simple fix and run two ballast resistors in line (I used 1.6ohm) - this returns the speed back to a normal pace. Although on my brother in laws ghia we ran two resistors and it slowed it down too much so we just used one and all was sweet.
vw54 路
Ive done a few body off restos over the years and havent had any probs with distortion but heater channels were good
Prob get the car Paint stripped on the flat panels to avoid warping then get the heavy rust areas like lower door hinge blasted
get a wiper from a 68 model and file out the mount holes to make it fit also move the mount bracket
give me call if you want to discuss
StenGuns 路
Thanks.. I can't wait to attack again this weekend (or sooner if work allows)
StenGuns 路
Alan.. I like the idea of a removable rear apron.. Is it just a matter of picking the appropriate place to cut and then fashion some rightangle brackets with fasteners (nut/bolt).. My 71 Type 2 collection all have removeable aprons and it is so much easier.. Do you have close up shots of your setup?
Dasdubber 路
StenGuns wrote:Alan.. I like the idea of a removable rear apron.. Is it just a matter of picking the appropriate place to cut and then fashion some rightangle brackets with fasteners (nut/bolt).. My 71 Type 2 collection all have removeable aprons and it is so much easier.. Do you have close up shots of your setup?
It is a worthwhile modification - make engine removal/installation so much easier!
StenGuns 路
Exactly half of my T2 collection.. (my retirement pastime)
StenGuns 路
I plan to start on this 71 dual door van as soon as the bug is happening..
StenGuns 路
Two problem rust areas
1st one is the washer reservoir, brake fluid tray.. rusted out and will need to be cut and replaced..
[ Edited on 18-9-06 by StenGuns ]
StenGuns 路
Problem two is the rust coming through at the bottom of the qtr panel (only showing on one side).. The doors have rust too but I have good straight donor ones
StenGuns 路
Stripped the engine out, the electrics, fuel tank and body parts in the first weekend.. next weekend I will strip the interior and take the body off the pan.. I am nervous about those fricken heater channels
MattY-64 路
Hi StenGuns,
I have read in a few books and mags that they weld in a brace between the lower door frame so when the heater channel is removed the distances etc remain the same. then all is needed is to fit up the new channel and then remove the brace. I think that this also helps from warping of the weld when fitting the new channels.
I didn't have to replace my channels either so I didn't need to use this method, but I hope this gives you some ideas.
Matt.
StenGuns 路
Thanks..
I'm going to get the body off and have a think.. Could very well brace the sections to stop any flexing.. lets hope I don't have to rip the channels out..
Thanks for all the feedback people.. AVD at its best!!
StenGuns 路
Hey, with regards to stripping the paint.. whats to stop me spraying some heavy duty stripper all over it and then hitting with a gurney? OK thats using water but with the body off and cleared drain holes etc.. Leave it standing out in the Sydney weather (30c+) with a bit of breeze should take care of residue moisture.. Dumb Idea?
malcolm 路
the best thing is to strip and repair the area as you go so you don,t get lost in the project.
StenGuns 路
Well, with a fortunate visit by VW54, I am starting on stage 2 this weekend.. A quick look around the car from Dave and it appears nowhere near necessary to take the body off.. Two small sections for repair, an all over paint strip and clean with maybe a sandblast of two sections.
oval TOFU 路
good luck man! Sounds like your on a roll already..
vw54 路
Yep it should clean up good.... more will be revealed when the paint comes off
whatnow 路
StenGuns wrote:Bizaarre.. disc conversion to front beam.. I was leaving the rear stock though..
I need advice on the 6v to 12v electrics.. eg; Can I fit a later wiper assembly or do I run a resistor.. Preferably want a later wiper (two speed).. I hazard that the only issue may be the spacing/distance between the stem holes
stenguns, i'm not sure of what front discs you will be using but i had shermans conversion's discs with stock rears on my 63 and found that the brake balance was way too far foward, T3 rear brakes would probably have sorted this but i pulled the car off the road before i sourced some.
i did a 2 speed conversion on my 63.
the wiper unit was out of a 6V car (it was in the shed no idea of what year), i pulled the motor out of a 68-70 mechinism and fitted it onto the earlier wiper unit. from memory it was a straight swap.
i used a later (68/70?) switch. to fit it into the dash and look correct i got the the origional 68 on screw in piece that holds the switch into the dash and got it tapped to accept a 6V gauge screw in piece.
i then filed the lip off the 68 piece and screwed/ loctited it into the switch. the switch can then be mounted into the dash like an early one.
for the knob, i just temporarly bodged it by filling the threads of a 6V knob with Zap-a-Gap (gap filling superglue) and screwing it on. this actually worked so well i never bothered working out a way to do it "properly".
i hope this makes sense.
henry.
[ Edited on 23-9-2006 by whatnow ]
StenGuns 路
Good advice.. thanks
whatnow wrote:stenguns, i'm not sure of what front discs you will be using but i had shermans conversion's discs with stock rears on my 63 and found that the brake balance was way too far foward, T3 rear brakes would probably have sorted this but i pulled the car off the road before i sourced some.
i did a 2 speed conversion on my 63.
the wiper unit was out of a 6V car (it was in the shed no idea of what year), i pulled the motor out of a 68-70 mechinism and fitted it onto the earlier wiper unit. from memory it was a straight swap.
i used a later (68/70?) switch. to fit it into the dash and look correct i got the the origional 68 on screw in piece that holds the switch into the dash and got it tapped to accept a 6V gauge screw in piece.
i then filed the lip off the 68 piece and screwed/ loctited it into the switch. the switch can then be mounted into the dash like an early one.
for the knob, i just temporarly bodged it by filling the threads of a 6V knob with Zap-a-Gap (gap filling superglue) and screwing it on. this actually worked so well i never bothered working out a way to do it "properly".
i hope this makes sense.
henry.
[ Edited on 23-9-2006 by whatnow ]
StenGuns 路
Right.. The shell was stripped last night and covered in paint stripper.. I have loaned a 20HP water blaster that will take your foot off.. Today I will blast the shell and see how she comes up.. I'll post pictures tonight..
StenGuns 路
OK..
Point One - Don't waste stripper by applying it the night before.. The brand I'm using goes "off" after 15 minutes and that is the optimum time to remove the paint.. Any longer and it starts to cure again..
Point Two - If there are many layers of paint, don't try and remove them all on the first application.. It is better to work on one panel, applying, stripping, applying stripping, etc as you work down through the layers.. Too much time is wasted trying to get to bare metal on the 1st "pass".
Point Three.. Using the water jet, reveals pristine metal underneath.. It is still the dull "pressed" look as it was 40+ years ago.. Scrapping or sanding during the process runs the chance of "scoring" the metal..
Point Four - The blaster is an effective way to remove paint BUT it is a long bloody job.. The final result in these photos took 4 hours to get there.. I can now do it quicker and cheaper (less stripper) by following these simple rules:
work on one panel
work in overcast or non direct sunlight
strip after 15mins (or the optimum your brand suggests)
don't try and do it all on the 1st coat.
I'm going back to work after 3:00pm when the sun is down a bit..
StenGuns 路
PS: I used the stripper in the spray can ONLY for the rear vent area which was full of crap.. The rest was brush on..
Bay_Buddah 路
Really inspiring thread... Thanks everyone! Gave me plenty of ideas for the resto i'm starting in November.
Hey StenGuns if you want a good rate on the gernie I can fix you up next time as I work at a building equipment hire place. Call me on 0403300921.
Phill.
P.S It looks like an awesome collection you got there ready to attack!
StenGuns 路
End of Day.. I learned more in the last half hour than I did all day.. The rest will go real quick (hope~)..
I'm thinking another full day, then sand blast a couple of areas and thats it!.. Great Fun!
barls 路
damn that looks good
vw54 路
Now yr into it
Yes one panel at a time and 15 minutes its time consuming but the best method
Dry the car out b4 u use the sand blast so it blows off the surface and hidden cracks easier
StenGuns 路
Thanks Dave.. The rear roof gutters have been poorly patched at some stage... I'm still not sure about the heater channels.. That rear qtr panel had extensive rust which I'm sure has eaten some of the channel.. The same side has that patch under the front arch.. The drivers lower A piller also has been DIY patched at some stage..
Good news is the rear interior has cleaned up well.. still has the factory coat on good nick,.. Rather leave with the coat on (save time).. I can't see the need to take it back to metal..
vw54 路
yeah no need to remove paint from the interior.
dont forget to wash the whole car off with paint thinners so as to remove the paint stripper from the roof gutters and seams use some scotch bright with the thinners will bring up the metal like new
then apply some light oil on a rag to stop the surface rust ready for the panel shop
StenGuns 路
yummmmm.. fresh metal
StenGuns 路
After a lot of thought, Rob (my son) has decided on the following two colours.. The red beetle is in Ruby with Blood Ochre panels.. The green is BRG with Forest Green panels.. I think they are both appealing..
PS: Need help to get a Britax or Golde roof!! Anyone know of one for sale?
vw54 路
Have u talked to the beater as yet ??
StenGuns 路
Yes mate.. He's coming to look 7 October.. I'll trailer it down with all the bits in the T5 when he's ready.. I'll hopefully be ready either 7 or 14 October.. Allow 4 weeks for P&P and I should be re-assembling in late Nov.. My current issue is getting the ragtop in the next 2 weeks.. I really want it but can't afford to hold up the rest..
koolkarmakombi 路
the red would look awesome, the darker one be hot in summer
vw54 路
You could have the roof fitted later if you can find one
StenGuns 路
Did something a little different today and decided to get the front seats sorted.. I thought, before I got too far into the strip down (eg; before body off) I'd better get some seats that fit..
So..I bought a great seat of Nissan NX coupe seats today.. $150.00..
They are quite narrow (500mm) and the track wasn't too far off the track base in the beetle..
I spent the whole day making a frame to sit over the old base which will take the new runners.. good fun and I think I've got it sorted..
Didn't take my camera but will detail a post tommorrow.. I bought an arc welder and some 50mm angle steel.. The only drama was when I was cutting a section of steel with the big grinder and I set myself on fire from the sparks.. Funny
StenGuns 路
Here are the seats.. The made up base will bolt to the floor pan at the back and bolt to the inside of the existing seat frame at the front. You can see two flat steel pieces protruding from the frame.. They fit inside the existing frame and then bolted together..
StenGuns 路
Missing from these shots is the rear angle section that has drilled holes to bolt to the floor.. Rather than go for a complete section across the back (which restricts access under the seat) I have decided to make up two angle brackets (one either side) which will do the same job.. I need to weld these brackets with about a 25mm overlap so I keep the 50mm "height" at the back.. As 1964_Notch mentioned in my HiBack seat post.. The height of the seat position is critical..
Tomorrow I'll do final adjustments with my son (he is 6'3") and then do the passenger side..
StenGuns 路
Finished the brackets today.. I'll fit the seats tomorrow..
Here are a couple of shots of the layout on the floorpan
StenGuns 路
Two close ups to indicate the hard points.. Note the front will bolt to the existing seat rail that is welded to the floorpan.. The rear will bolt directly to the floor pan using hi tensile 10mm bolts and nuts fixed to plates under the pan..
StenGuns 路
malcolm 路
silver top,guards and snow pearl sides would look as well.nice work with the seat rails.
StenGuns 路
Met with the "body guy" yesterday.. he looked over the whole car and thinks its in great nick.. Taking the body off the pan and shipping body to him on Oct21st.. Lot to do before then..
1/Finish stripping the panels
2/Media blast the rust areas, the door arches, the wheel arches, the front bulkhead and the engine bay.
3/Locate and fit a ragtop (optional)
4/New pins in both doors.
When the body is away, we will detail the pan, disc conversion on front beam, replace transaxle with 1600s box etc. Also the seats and cards will go to the trimmer so he can start work.. bumpers off for re-chroming..
All should be done in 60 days leaving the re-build over Xmas/New Year..
Still no closer on the colour scheme with one school (mum) wanting a stock (ex factory) look and other school (me) wanting a mildy modern look. Rob needs to choose soon.. Pix through the week
StenGuns 路
Colour scheme finalised today..
The green machine..
British Racing Green with Darker Green side panels..
Off white leather interior trim with dark green carpet.
Britax rag in black.. Old Skool chrome everywhere..
PS: The white leather was not my idea, I wanted Light Tan. We surveyed about 20 females and they all picked the green/cream combo.. so they won
[ Edited on 9-10-06 by StenGuns ]
StenGuns 路
Update..
An adjustable front beam from a donor car has been sent away for overhaul and refit with disc brakes.. Not cheap, but I get back a fully detailed (new bearings, ends, and repainted in POR15) adjustable beam with discs in wide five.. Cost is a shade under 2g's..
Also ordered the stainless extractor and exhaust for $440.00
Need to decide on whether I get a german set of rubbers or go the cheaper alternative.. German set (complete) I have been quoted 1000.00
Also need to decide on flat four chromed radars or something cheaper.. The flat fours are 15x5 and I was hoping for something a little wider on the back.. Falt fours will set me back $1495.00
Bizarre 路
U have u2u
StenGuns 路
Body finally went off to the panel beaters today. He will fabricate those parts that need replacing and prepare the whole car for paint. Next step is to prep the guards, doors and lids and send them off as well. The doors need new pins which will happen this week.. Hopefully next weekend we can get all the guards etc done so 1st week of November we can start detailing the pan.
Note the passenger side heater channel is a bit shot up the front.. Same at the back.. New sections to go in..
StenGuns 路
The sandblaster didn't turn up yesterday which meant the body went without having the engine or front bay totally stripped. The panel guy says he can take care of it..
[ Edited on 22-10-06 by StenGuns ]
StenGuns 路
Note in the last shot.. There has been quite a bit of work done in an earlier life.. Both A pillars have had their bottoms done and the panels in fron have had pieces patched in.. Makes you wonder why the channels weren't checked
StenGuns 路
Well the panelbeater has the body and has started the repair work.. The front and engine bay will still need a sandblast..
Today, I did a few hours on the guards and lids.. Tomorrow (with an extra set of hands) I should have all this stuff and the doors back to bare metal.. The doors then go for new pins and the whole lot can head off for the panel and paint work..
Here are a few shots from today
The guards and deck lid stripped.. need sanding back tomorrow
The bonnet getting stripped.. The paint stripper is pretty ineffective..Easier on these bit to use drills and grinders with strippers and discs..
The next part of the project will be to strip and detail the pan.. Next weekend
StenGuns 路
The ragtop is on its way from Adelaide..
Still need to locate the late model wiper assembly.. If anyone has a complete one from an "S" bug 68-72..????
koolkarmakombi 路
Mate dont paint it, clean polyurathene!
StenGuns wrote:Body finally went off to the panel beaters today. He will fabricate those parts that need replacing and prepare the whole car for paint. Next step is to prep the guards, doors and lids and send them off as well. The doors need new pins which will happen this week.. Hopefully next weekend we can get all the guards etc done so 1st week of November we can start detailing the pan.
Note the passenger side heater channel is a bit shot up the front.. Same at the back.. New sections to go in..
StenGuns 路
Finished the lids and guards.. Ran out of time for the doors..
StenGuns 路
The ragtop arrived today.. The fabric is shot... I imagine that the ragtop should be replaced BEFORE I get the thing installed..
Does anyone know how hard it would be to replace the fabric AFTER the roof is installed? I would prefer to do it this way but it looks damn hard (either way)
Bizarre 路
Love those chunks of wood in the back ground!
Mate - LOVE your work and speed.
What wheels did you decide on??
Barry
StenGuns 路
Barry.. Thanks.. Still going for Radars.. Just haven't bothered to chase them up..
The yard I use also has a guy that is cleaning up all this wood he drags out of some site in Newcastle.. Tonnes of Australian hard wood.. He's going to make a fortune!
vw54 路
Rob
Ring me re the roof Ive done this before
Is it an origional VW roof ???
67Restocal 路
Great thread, Stenguns. I am watching this closely as I am about to start a resto of my 67 Deluxe and this is perfect timing for me.
StenGuns 路
Thanks..
Located a 1500 12v wiper assembly at the Shootout yesterday.. I'll measure it up and test it in the 67.. In other news, the doors are getting new pins and will collect this week.. I'll do more photos and update midweek..
StenGuns 路
The body is back from the sandblaster.. The passenger side heater channel is shot and needs replacing..
We are going to replace without marrying back to the pan.. Chris (Panel Guy) is confident this can be done although there is always the risk when you put the two back together that some holes don't align completely..
This is the way it has to be though as it is too difficult to get the pan down to him.. PLUS I am starting on the pan today!! Thank god the paint stripping is over (except the doors which I haven't picked up from Boris yet)..
Where is a good place to get a new heater channel?
StenGuns 路
I've been quoted $290.00 + GST for one heater channel.. Anyone know where to go?
pod 路
have you tried george at classic veedub
StenGuns 路
He has no stock.. to get one in was $350.00
barls 路
try fermans mate also i got that switch downstairs and im home all week if you want to come and pick it up, you have my number
StenGuns 路
Finally made some headway on the floor pan
The body is progressing along nicely.. I seem to have lost a lot of my posted pix.. I'll get around to re-posting soon..
Anycase.. The floorpan left today to the media blaster I use at Padstow.. Quoted $360 to blast and etch prime which is an absolute bargain.. Not quite sure what coating I will use yet.. maybe por15
After the pan is coated, the next stage is to get the type 3 rear and the new front beam together with the new floor pan and run all the cables and lines etc.. Body should be painted and ready in early Feb so we will marry it back together and then start on the fiddly bits
StenGuns 路
Here is a few early shots of the body
StenGuns 路
Floor Pan back from the Powder coater.. very happy with it. After its been, sandblasted, etch primed, welded, zinc primed and coated in gloss black, this muthuphucka ain't never going to rust!
Also did bits like pedal assembly, tank, brake handle, gear stick etc.. Basically all removable parts..
Just waiting now for the front beam (re-built adjustable with wide 5 discs, new bushes, K&L pins etc) and have to pick up the type 3 backend and we can start to assemble the running gear! Now for the fun part!
vw54 路
Rob
That looks great lots of Effort
Whats Chris sitting on his back side for ????
StenGuns 路
Mate.. Chris should be breathing down my neck.. I'm hoping for a Pan/Body marriage in 1st week March.. Your invited to the wedding..!!
StenGuns 路
vw54 路
Love to come along
Where u gunna do it ???
Have you got seals n bolts n bits etc etc
StenGuns 路
Probably at Chris's.. Seals, I got.. Going to Mullings and Coventry for a full nut/bolt inventory over the next week or two.. Going stainless where I can get em..
Dasdubber 路
Nice work mate - the assembly is always the fun part as everything is new and clean! Although at times a little nerve wrecking (eg. putting doors etc back together for the fear of scratching it).
StenGuns 路
Thanks Das.. Yes.. all nice and clean.. Just finished re-assembly of the foot pedals (dry run).. Actually found a shot on your Manx archive to help me along.. (Mental note - next time take a pre-dismantle photo).. however.. here is a couple of pedal assembly shots for the archive
.
StenGuns 路
Just wanted to revive this thread and advise that the body is now nearly finished..
We haven't rushed the repair stage as Chris (fabricator) is very fastidious.. We are now at spray putty stage, fitted all the doors, guards etc and got all the gaps right.. I can't tell you the amount of hours that has gone into this body.. Something like 200 probably.. The result will be worth it..
I'm doing up the engine at the moment with new tinware (painted to match body) and all new bits.. The 1916 will run twin Kadrons and have a semi merged ceramic exhaust fitted.. I like the idea of a twin exhaust and have found one at CIP1 that I'm checking out now..
The front beam is still with Boris (lack of $$ to do this at the same time as body) but I'll get this completed in the next few weeks
(rebuilt adjustable beam with wide 5 disc brakes)..
The rear of the car (gearbox, brakes) will all be early type 3..
Brightwork and bumpers will be chomed blades and a full chrome strip
No sunroof now so if anyone wants a complete BRITAX ragtop, I can offload mine..
Interior will be light tan leather finish..
Exterior paint will be.... hmm.. Well I don't know exactly myself yet.. I've asked Chris to describe it and he points at the sky and says "like that blue with but a bit deeper and slightly metallic" So I'm not sure..
The whole car should be assembled end of August/September so I'm hoping to have it on the road by October.. That will be exactly one year on a restoration that I planned to do in three months.. Rob
bond 路
u2u britax rag.
looks great rob, well done! looks like we will have similar brakes - wide 5 vintage kit up front with rear type 3. any idea if vvds are doing a rear wide 5 kit? im keen! 馃檪
nick
StenGuns 路
Re U2U's about the ragtop..The Britax ragtop is still in the packaging I bought it in (2nd hand).. I believe the whole setup is there although I have never opened it.. It will need new material.. It cost me $300.. This is NOT an aftermarket ragtop.. I believe the Britax rag was a factory option between 62-66 in the deluxe model.. Before that Golde was the factory roof.. Please don't quote me though as I'm sure there are experts out there that will correct me..