Superbug prices

Hi there,

What would one expect to pay these days for a 1971 superbug?

I'm thinking of saving up for a Volkswagen S, no rust and with RWC.

Any other suggestions for a good first beetle?

Hi there

here is a 72 for sale

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=46168

"What would one expect to pay these days for a 1971 superbug?"
- $3k + ish for a good registered one would be around the mark

"Any other suggestions for a good first beetle?"
- depends. is this you first car?? or are you 40years old and looking for a toy to drive on the weekends??
Supers are GOOD daily drivers. They are cheaper than more "classic" beetles, to buy and parts. They come standard with disck brakes, indicators, seat belts etc etc etc.
If you want a daily driver that you can get in and safely drive - get a Super

if you want one that looks pretty.... get a '67.. and avoid an L-bug at all costs! 😂

Definitely a good choice going with the superbug, i feel they have much better running gear and are a more comfortable ride! Dont listen to Schmoburger, he hasnt ever owned a beetle little alone an L Bug. I have an L Bug and she is awesome to drive!

Keep an eye out on the cars for sale here as they often pop up! We managed to buy an S Bug a few years back for my mum and they were trying to sell it for $2000, we got it down to $800.

Ash x

JEEBUS!!!! You really know how to scoop a bargain Ash! 😎 👍

The only way Schmo! 😀 Gotta love a bargain!

Ash x

a 1302S SuperBug.... 1971 -72

why did You pick a 1302S Superbug??

if You hit a gutter hard You can wreck the car..
the front suspension is mounted to the body...
Not the chassis like non supers...

I'm not a lover of the Supers... even though I owned one back in the 70s..

I can now tell a super by the bulging front bonnet...
very ugly...
1303s are even uglier... [large curved windscreen]

check out ebay for Beetles..
look up VW in cars bikes and boats...

best of Luck

Lee -- 68autobug --

$3 max. LoL

By the way, safety is not an extension of your car, it is an extension of your maintanance schedule and driving habits.

[ Edited on 19-9-2006 by Hertz ]

68AutoBug wrote:I can now tell a super by the bulging front bonnet...
very ugly...
1303s are even uglier... [large curved windscreen]

I think you mean 1303 L bugs? I think everyone has their own tastes. No one should tell someone something is ugly and they should get this and that just cos its not their preference. Each to their own, and we should all help others get what they want right?

Ash x

Hertz wrote:$3 max. LoL

By the way, safety is not an extension of your car, it is an extension of your maintanance schedule and driving habits.

[ Edited on 19-9-2006 by Hertz ]

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamen bruva!!! :bounce

68AutoBug wrote:if You hit a gutter hard You can wreck the car..
the front suspension is mounted to the body...
Not the chassis like non supers...

Lee -- 68autobug --

:jesus your mood says it all fella

MISS_VDUB wrote:

68AutoBug wrote:I can now tell a super by the bulging front bonnet...
very ugly...
1303s are even uglier... [large curved windscreen]

I think you mean 1303 L bugs? I think everyone has their own tastes. No one should tell someone something is ugly and they should get this and that just cos its not their preference. Each to their own, and we should all help others get what they want right?

Ash x

That's what he said, 1303s... like VWs...
Just forgot to put the apostrophy.
-Staggers.

1302 "S" Bug

1303 "L" Bug

Ash x

68AutoBug wrote:if You hit a gutter hard You can wreck the car..

First thing I plan on driving into every morning 😂

1971 1302 'S' bug with NO rust and ready to drive with a roadworthy certificate and all major mechanical components in servicable condition has to be worth $3000. If you buy a $500 rustbucket (on any car) you could end up spending many thousands just getting the rust fixed properly.

" "Any other suggestions for a good first beetle?"
- depends. is this you first car?? or are you 40years old and looking for a toy to drive on the weekends??
Supers are GOOD daily drivers. They are cheaper than more "classic" beetles, to buy and parts. They come standard with disck brakes, indicators, seat belts etc etc etc.
If you want a daily driver that you can get in and safely drive - get a Super "

It will be the first car that I buy myself. I'm actually 20 something, looking for something different, and one to tinker with from time to time and learn stuff on. I would like it to be a daily driver for sure.

I also read at BugShop that rust in the heater channels are a pain in the butt, should I be especially careful to look for rust when inspecting beetles for sale?

What's the best way to deal with rust on the body? Should I accept ANY rust on the body at all when looking for one?

[ Edited on 19-9-2006 by neonuke ]

The unfortunate thing is that if you are not really experienced with Beetles, then you will not know the areas to look in for the rust, or the ways to check for catastrophic mechanical problems. All cars that are second hand have the potential to burn you. A 30+ year old car, very probable if you don't have the experience or luck. This is not localised to VW's, all cars can burn you. There is no list that will protect you, you need someone with good diagnosis skills.

Even if a VW shop will charge you $100 to fully check out a beetle you are planning on buying and you end up going through 4 beetles to get the 'one' you want and has a thumbs up report, are you gonna feel bad? It can be the best money you could ever spend not to end up with a car that you spend thousands upon thousands on and can never enjoy because it is just a polished turd.

Hi

Of the 1302/S bugs I prefer the 1972 model, it has a few extra features, wipers on the stalk and not on the dash, larger back window, 4 vent deck lid and high back seats.

Look for the most rust free version of whatever model you select.

I like 1303/Lbugs, thats why Im building one now.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, we have all seen your idea of good taste Lee, so your comments in this matter will usually be ignored.

Tell me that this car isnt horn?

Steve

I have to admit the late 1303 with no indicators on the front guards look smooooth. Gives the guards the look like I would have on a beetle split model, right before I chop the roof off it. 😂

Thats hot Steve! 👍

Ash x

Should I get a bucket of water?

I'd love a 1302/3. 1600, IRS, discs and macpherson strut all standard. :thumb

Insert a nice motor, dump it and make it handle no probs. 👍

have you got any mates with bugs? i would highly recommend going for a test drive in one , as, liek all vws, they are like nothing else in the world to drive, amazingly controllable when they break loose, and brilliant traction most of the time, but with the engine in tha back, when you learn how to puch a dub towards its adhesion limit you can spend alot of time facing the inside of a corner then you might expect (heaps of fun, way WAY more fun then fwd understeer, but a bit of a surprise the first few times if youve never driven an ass heavy car). as a practical option, have you ever considered a type 3, or do you love the shape of the beetle too much?

Man do I feel sorry for mate all this info but soak it in it all good stuff and the bottom linr is ITS YOUR DECISION

I have purchased over the last 5 years 3 Lbugs

A 74 which I bought for $1000 with out a RWC Cost $800 to get it on the road
This included me welding in new floor pans on both sides
My daughter used this for daily four 4 years with only slight problems witch you will get with aged vechiles
Just recently sold this cause she upgraded to Golf
Sold for $2800 with RWC

With Another daughter turning 18 a purchased another 74
for $800.00 no RWC
This was strong mechanical but being coast car too much rust so I wrecked and used bits for other 2

The third and my Favourite is a 75L Now this is the second last model to be released in Aust and has Indicators in front bumper and has rack and pinion Streering (not a box)
I purchased this for $1200 no rego or RWC but it was a solid unit and the model I really wanted
This is him now A cut and polish new interia and clean up underneath



There is a moral to this
NOT MATTER WHAT BUG YOU BUY YOU WILL BE HAPPY UNTIL YOU SEE OR FIND OUT YOU WANT TO GO IN ANOTHER DIRECTION
LOOK AT LOTS BEFORE YOU BUY AND KNOW THE MARKET

Good luck looking forward to seeing your ride up here

Cool, thanks for all your info everyone.

I have been looking at carsales.com.au, a lot of them are asking for more than $4K for a superbug, and most other beetles which are under $2K are rusty, have dents in the body or really bad paint. Most are around $3K.

Another thing I'd like to know, which engines can run unleaded fuel? I've read that the 1600cc ones are able to?

I was informed by my local VW mechanic that it is recommended you run unleaded as the leaded tends to corrode the lines etc and shortens the life span... So one day i just went down to the servo and put unleaded in instead, and my mum did this with her bug also. We both had 1600cc engines, and we didnt even have a hickup with just putting unleaded in! I actaully think they ran better!

Ash x

Mate this will open another can of worms:P

I have been using Premium with Flashlube valve saver in 1600s

The idea is to use high premium to stop pinging and valve saver because there is no lead in petrol now

as someone who was looking a couple of years ago, you will have a hard time finding a good one under $3500. i have one for sale at the moment, its the one that bizzare posted a link for, its in reasonable condition, no major rust and a good motor and box and im after 3500 for it. if i dont get a buyer before i get my other one back on the road ill take it off the road to repair the rust and then repaint it bit thats going to jack the price up a grand or so more. if your interested email me at dion.barlin@fleet.defence.gov.au