EJ22 Manx nearing completion

EJ22 Manx nearing completion ,,,well a lot nearer than 3 years ago when i started it. lol

im just finishing off the body work now ..fiberglassing
still got to recalibrate the speedo.
paint it and some mags as well.

later mark 🙂

going to try and attach these photos .hopefully it works

well that uploaded ok so heres some more of it

[ Edited on 23-9-2006 by bug_dv8 ]

and another

[ Edited on 23-9-2006 by bug_dv8 ]

heres one of the exhaust 2.5 inch with two inch headers all made by yours truely
304 stainless with a cat from a sti subaru

i tried to keep the exhaust as close as possible to the engine so the back end didnt look to long.

i also tried to keep the exhaust and header pipes high so as it dosnt make the motor look to low against the body.

its got a sweet note in the high ranges and its nice and quite at idle and low revs.

[ Edited on 23-9-2006 by bug_dv8 ]

looks good , One thing kids & hot mufflers & pipe work dont mix .

This is a kid safe car

EJ20turbo with a lift

I would not know your rules as your in QLD & I am in Perth .We are not required to have person covers on HOT bits .

Looks the part

nice job 😵‍💫 looks like you put a lot of work into that exhaust system!

I presume you are running the stock ECU and wiring? Was it much work getting the instrument cluster working as I will be using mine too?

Rich

Mark i would highly recomend some heat guards between the exhaust and your pully cover as Terrys Baja down here in Brissie also runs the exhaust close to the covers and when up the beach or long runs the heat transfer turns the cover to a molten puddle.

great work!

Looks like it's all going to plan!!! The pictures don't do it justice people...it is MUCH better in the flesh (when i last saw it anyway). Bet you can't wait to get it in the road.....good stuff !!🙂:thumb Hurry up !!!:P

[ Edited on 24-9-06 by Mick H ]

A Westwood wrote:Mark i would highly recomend some heat guards between the exhaust and your pully cover as Terrys Baja down here in Brissie also runs the exhaust close to the covers and when up the beach or long runs the heat transfer turns the cover to a molten puddle.

I was going to say the same thing. Terry's exhaust melted his plastic EJ22 timing belt covers.

Otherwise looks good :thumb

What colour you gunna paint it?

Oh, and what's your plan for calibrating the subaru speedo?

[ Edited on 24-9-2006 by Baja Wes ]

im gunna paint it yellow eventually with a white stripe.
and 16'' and 17'' mags
it will also be lower ,

as for the timing covers i havnt had any probs with them so far and ive had the pipes glowing with no air flow .
ive got a good 50-60mm air gap.
its something i had thought of doing later on when making the pipes ,but so far the heat transfer has been minimal.


the speedo im planing on adjusting the tension spring in the speedo. ill try it on another one ive got first.

ill use a battery drill in a standard vw speedo see what it reads
do the same in the subaru one and adjust it till it reads the same as the vw speedo.
and see what happens ,
at the moment they read like this

test 1 vw 43kph
subaru 36kph

test 2 vw 135kph
subaru 111kph

which is roughly a 1.1 to 1 difference
i may have to adjust it to allow for the new front wheel size to ,if theres much difference again it will be with the battery drill as the tester, then do the road test .get it to the same speed as the battery dril speed land get someone else driving behind me to tell me the speed.
then whip it back out and adjust it using the
battery drill as the tester again and get it to read the speed we did in the road test . its all theroy at the moment but it should work.
failing that its off to a speedo specialist.

heres a earlier photo i took of the intake manifold for intrested people . its finished now and the throttle cable routing is perfect . coils sit where the intake used to be. if i did one again i wouldnt go to this effort. took a long time to make the new manifold and weld up the old hole and make a new coil bracket and pressure test . does look the part though sitting straight up and down and takes up little space and is easy to work with
later mark

[ Edited on 24-9-2006 by bug_dv8 ]

heres a picture of the water pipe i made going to the water pump it bolts to the head .the m6 bolt holes have been taped out to m8 for extra strenght.

Will it be ready to go for a spin next Sunday? Might drop over....:beer

not quite m8. ill drop you a email when shes all ready
🙂

That's a nice idea on the manifold, like it.

ElusiveStranger wrote:That's a nice idea on the manifold, like it.

Thanx m8 🙂

nice work.

ricola wrote:nice job 😵‍💫 looks like you put a lot of work into that exhaust system!

I presume you are running the stock ECU and wiring? Was it much work getting the instrument cluster working as I will be using mine too?

Rich

what i did was put the whole wiring loom in .some wires i had to lenghten but most were shortened.
the loom is in two parts the feed wires from the main fuse box in the battery tray run up the left hand side with ecu and other componaints attached to the dash . the other part from the interior fuse box runs down the right hand side from the dash area to the engine .this is the section where most wires were lengthened but not all of them .the lenghts of the original loom are just the right lenght for the manx .the interior fuse box drops down from under the dash for conveniance.

how i got the wiring loom up the tubes was to feed some rope through the tubes first .
then i picked out all the pins from the connectors writting the out down first taped it all to the rope carfully and pulled it all through then reattached the connectors to there pins. this saved on cutting off connectors and resoildering or splicing them back together creating potential problems in the future.

theres alot of wires i cut out of the loom in order to put the wiring loom in the body tubes under the guards .they only just fit.what was removed was all the auto wiring , abs , electric windows interior lights ,cruise control ( bummer ! no cruise control ,there just wasnt enough room so it had to go ) after i had finished 2 weeks later from just the wiring loom cut down the wiring loom was half its original width. and i was left with a meter square box of left over spageti . it was amazing the amount of shit that was removed. im getting alot of questions about putting the whole loom in . if i was to do a manx again id just use the main fuse box the ecu under the dash and the subaru dash and hook em all up.there will be a lot less wiring.
if however you were putting this in a bug then i would of thought it would be alot easier to fit as theres more room to put the loom . well im assuming . its not easy i can tell you that much and very time consuming
later mark

pete wood wrote:nice work.

thanx , its great to hear .
after three years of working on it and everybody including my wife saying im mad.
i dont think ill be taking on another project for quite some time after its finished

later mark 🙂

this is the radiator i made for it.
core was brought from pwr australia its 300mm high 570mm wide and 57mm thick with 1 1/2 inlet outlet with a 10'' fan .
its very efficent . thermo is not on for long when at operating temperature.

bug_dv8 wrote:the speedo im planing on adjusting the tension spring in the speedo. ill try it on another one ive got first.

I tried the Jaycar digital speedo corrector. It hasn't worked so far, and support from Jaycar has been useless.

My Mazda sensor is a sine wave AC generator, and the jaycar kit multiplies it and transforms it to a square wave. I don't think my cluster / ECU likes the square wave.

It'd probably work on the suby though, cos it's a more basic speed sensor.

bug_dv8 wrote:

pete wood wrote:nice work.

thanx , its great to hear .
after three years of working on it and everybody including my wife saying im mad.
i dont think ill be taking on another project for quite some time after its finished

later mark 🙂

you are mad. and you will do another one, only you'll be wiser the next time. 😉

They are top fun. I did my third motorkhana in my EJ25 powered buggy on the weekend and it was a hoot. It's worth the effort. Everyone loves buggies...well maybe everyone except for wives. 😁

side pods ,,wheres the best place to get them from in australia

and also whats the design rules for the front bull bar covering the front wheels in qld.
does the bull bar have to be at the center hieght of the front wheel .
thanks mark

[ Edited on 8-10-2006 by bug_dv8 ]

Custom off road or sharpsbuilt have them. You just missed a set on ebay yesterday, I was going to bid myself but have too much to do already

[ Edited on 8-10-2006 by mackaymanx ]

For the front bar my modification letter states

"In addition, it will be necessary for suitable mounted, full width bumper bar to be fitted. Front bumper bar is required to provide adequate protection for the upper half of the front wheels in the event of a forward collision."

Pics show mine when passed last year.

[ Edited on 8-10-2006 by mackaymanx ]

wot there was a set of side pods on there ? bugger

They sold for $305.....

mackaymanx wrote:For the front bar my modification letter states

"In addition, it will be necessary for suitable mounted, full width bumper bar to be fitted. Front bumper bar is required to provide adequate protection for the upper half of the front wheels in the event of a forward collision."

Pics show mine when passed last year.

[ Edited on 8-10-2006 by mackaymanx ]

cheers

Mick H wrote:They sold for $305.....

tripple bugger

hi every one , its been quite some time since i last left a progress report .

the buggy was registered and blue plated way back in january , i tested it on the road for about a month to iron out faults .

all went well , so i completly stripped it down for painting.
since then the progress on the body was very slow . so i took the body to the painters here in towvillle about three weeks ago and now it has been finished . the roll cage has been sand blasted and painted . over the last three days ive been putting it back together . cant wait to get it going again its been so long.
ill post some finished pictures in the coming days.
mark

Will be great to see the finished result

Wondered where you got to......drop me a line when your finished!!
👍

thought id ad some more photos . ive been driving it around for at least 8 months solid now and its very reliable . not finished completely. still need mags , carpet ,and side pods.
ill be using 17in rear and 15in fronts.
anyway thats when i can get some money together.
lol

and another

its only 20mm longer than the EJ series

how much do you want for it?

bugdv8 wrote:as for the timing covers i havnt had any probs with them so far and ive had the pipes glowing with no air flow .
ive got a good 50-60mm air gap.
its something i had thought of doing later on when making the pipes ,but so far the heat transfer has been minimal.

[ Edited on 24-9-2006 by bug_dv8 ]

The problem comes with prolonged use as the plastics get heat soaked and then melt. Most EJ buggies with pipes near them seam to suffer the issue, as simple heat shield fixes it .

bugdv8 wrote:its only 20mm longer than the EJ series

yeah but the H6 is a PITA to wire with stock ECU ..

Not to many have had sucess even in Subaru's

Great engine though

yeah if i was going to use it id use a haltech or motech

Buggy Brad wrote:

bugdv8 wrote:as for the timing covers i havnt had any probs with them so far and ive had the pipes glowing with no air flow .
ive got a good 50-60mm air gap.
its something i had thought of doing later on when making the pipes ,but so far the heat transfer has been minimal.

[ Edited on 24-9-2006 by bug_dv8 ]

The problem comes with prolonged use as the plastics get heat soaked and then melt. Most EJ buggies with pipes near them seam to suffer the issue, as simple heat shield fixes it .

ive done 5000 ks with this exhaust now and the plastics are still like the day i put them on. if i was down the beach doing slow air speed high load with the pipes glowing all day then that exhaust system wouldnt be what i would of built. but its a road buggy , i wanted a tight exhaust system to keep the back end short. the proofs in the pudding , there still on there 5000 km's later and there still sweet (unmelted)
one day i might get arounnd to making a heat sheild , but i was going to make a heat sheild like a year ago and it hasnt happened yet. so basically until theres a day when i feel like working on it instead of driving it then thats when it will happen. took me 5 years to rebuild this thing and to tell the truth i much prefer driving it now, rather than working on it.

rocknrob wrote:how much do you want for it?

it cost me $2000 , dunno offers over $1200

that's the 3 litre H6 or the Er27 2.7litre?

Front timing covers look very heavy. Go great in a split kombi or type three. Be a bit big for a buggy.

great 4 a Baja bug......

pete wood wrote:that's the 3 litre H6 or the Er27 2.7litre?

Front timing covers look very heavy. Go great in a split kombi or type three. Be a bit big for a buggy.

its 20mm longer than a ej22 and 40kgs heavier than a ej22
its a EZ30 puts out 220 horsepower in standard trim naturally asperated.

there putting these in sand rail in the states ,turbos pistons rods etc and getting 600 - 900 horsepower out of them.

the camchain instead of the cambelt and bringing the cylinders closer together enabled subaru to keep the ez30 alot shorter so it bolted into there ej series of cars , the outback and liberty.

ithink the aluminium cam chain cover is great , you can polish it , a much more fitting look to classic cars than black plastic cam belt covers , also alot more resistant to heat etc

bugdv8 wrote:

rocknrob wrote:how much do you want for it?

it cost me $2000 , dunno offers over $1200

pm sent🥷