Would my bug have vaccum booster\'s on its brakes?

I got a 69 bug, semi auto, drum brake rear, DISC brake front....

the handbrake and hydraulic work... cept the handbrake doesn't have affect till the VERY last click,and the hydraulic doesn't kick in till the pedal is TOTALLY DEPRESSED!! :o!

Doesn't appear to be any fluid leaks, all there...

If i got vaccum booster (if it was stock), then chances are i haven't wired it up yet... was pushing it to the new house today, didn't turn it on while braking down hill... (cause my tranny doesn't work yet)

Anyone got any suggestions?
cheers guys... just hope its not another major loop... again... from all the other million ones 🙁

adjust your back brakes 🙂

yeah, that would cure the handbrakes....

the hydraulic foot brake shouldda kicked in though... even if the rear was rooted, cause of the front discs 🙁

you might have frozen calipers in the front,but adjusting back brakes will helpwith the pedal on the hydraulic circuit

i've never heard of a beetle with a factory brake booster. air in the lines could also cause funny brake reactions. if the brakes feel squishy/spongy with increasing pressure before they start to work, it could be air in the lines.

adjust rear brakes and it shold be sorted, or bleed for ar bubbles.

bajachris88 wrote:I got a 69 bug, semi auto, drum brake rear, DISC brake front....

the handbrake and hydraulic work... cept the handbrake doesn't have affect till the VERY last click,and the hydraulic doesn't kick in till the pedal is TOTALLY DEPRESSED!! :o!

Doesn't appear to be any fluid leaks, all there...

If i got vaccum booster (if it was stock), then chances are i haven't wired it up yet... was pushing it to the new house today, didn't turn it on while braking down hill... (cause my tranny doesn't work yet)

Anyone got any suggestions?
cheers guys... just hope its not another major loop... again... from all the other million ones 🙁

If a car has vaccum assisted (Power assisted) brakes the pedal would be hard, as the diaphram actually makes it easier/softer to press - not harder.

Your Beetle doesn't have a vaccum assisted master cylinder, nor does any stock (Classic) Beetle that I know of.

My suggestion; buy a 500mL bottle of DOT4 brake fluid, bleed the brakes. Remember do the longest route first (I.E: The wheel cylinder furtherest away from the master cyinder which is your rear left) then go from there.

Chances are your front pistons may have seized in the calipers, but let's hope not.

Flush the whole system of old fluid, make a note of the date too (As you'll need to flush the fluid in two years time) Damn hygroscopic fluid.

Adjust your rear brakes and handbrake as per your manual and you should be okay.

While bleeding the brakes check the condition of your lines, pads and shoes. We don't want you roaring through the bush one day like a bat outta hell, only to find you're without brakes, do we?

-Staggers.

Kombis were the only aircoolers that had vac assist brakes coz theyre so frigen big and heavy
like staggers said brake fluid is hygroscopic so it absorbs water espeically if a car has been sitting around unused for ages
nothing worse than boiling ur brake fluid
i had it happen once coming down burringbar range a few years back not a nice feeling hurtelling down hill and ur brake pedal goes to the floor :o

like everyones been telling u adjust the back brakes and check that the front pads still actually have meat left on them and if that makes no diff check the wheel cylinders and calipers havent seized

-Joel

adjust adjust adjust breaks rear and the 2 handbreak cable ajusters
you scare me

Chris, the play in the rear brake allows the hydraulics to suck in all the fluid to the back so now u have to push pedal all the way to transfer fluid into the thingy...so
adjust and bleed as all have said '

just one more thingy
make sure the handbrake performs evenly (even though the cables may seem a different length afterwards) ...they stretch in time . but u wanna brake in a straight line!!