Heating in Buses

Now it's getting chilly in Ol' Blighty I've started on my heating. Electric blankets don't demist windscreens 😉

Decided to go for a Mk 3 Golf (Rabbit?) heater matrix between the two cab seats. 3" hole cut in the floor and a 'stove pipe' to connect to the orig hot air pipe. Will be using either a squirrel cage fan to blow air through this, or a bilge fan to suck the air through.
My van had a storage box fitted between the seats so the walktrough wasn't lost.

Would you guys please post some photos of your heating set ups please?

Cheers 😀

this keeps me very warm on even the coldest days haha,

all i have to do is just open the normal front vents and in comes the hot air

On hot days i close the vents and its fine (for a car without air con that is...)

[ Edited on 16/12/2006 by kevo ]

I'm mounting a heater core from a Holden Rodeo truck up under the floor just behind the front beam. I has a bypass vane so the blower behind it will also push fresh air. Will hook up to the original pipework forward.

Brendan

Kevo, that made me laugh, thanks. I haven't got aircon for the summer.
You guys are lucky as you can put the rad up front, add some roo bars and your buses look well hard 😉
I'm loving your Baja buses but I don't think it'd look good over here.

Brendon, I did wonder about that sort of set up but have heard that due to the low pressure under the bus it may try and 'suck' the air from inside the bus. I don't know if this is correct. How's yours going?

Thanks guys

71EJVan wrote:I'm mounting a heater core from a Holden Rodeo truck up under the floor just behind the front beam. I has a bypass vane so the blower behind it will also push fresh air. Will hook up to the original pipework forward.

Brendan

I was thinking of retaining much of the original ductwork and fabbing an airbox toward the front of the center duct for the heater core and fan. This would be hooked up to the center duct, drawing air from the rear seat "outlets" and pushing it to the front outlets. Recirculating the air is much more efficient than drawing outside air.

Also, I think that keeping the heater core low will make it easier to get rid of air bubbles.

I'm not sure whether to include it in the Subaru bypass thermostat circuit (as subaru does) or to have a separate bypass to operate the thermostat.

George

Hey George, long time no hear!
I'm thinking about recirculating the air in mine (panel van) much Mine will be the way you have described ie suck the cabin air from the back via the walkthrough 'box'
How's yours coming on?

I'm not too sure how to post images to here but I'll try shortly - give me a coupla weeks.
I'm contemplating the Tom Shields bypass conversion - I've heard a few Aussies are running these too. Comments would be appreciated!

Edit: Changed Commets to comments 😉

[ Edited on 17-12-2006 by ElusiveStranger ]

ElusiveStranger wrote:Hey George, long time no hear!
I'm thinking about recirculating the air in mine (panel van) much Mine will be the way you have described ie suck the cabin air from the back via the walkthrough 'box'
How's yours coming on?

I'm not too sure how to post images to here but I'll try shortly - give me a coupla weeks.
I'm contemplating the Tom Shields bypass conversion - I've heard a few Aussies are running these too. Comments would be appreciated!

My project has been stalled but will get going again soon. I need to order the intake inverter from COR and start assembling all the other conversion bits. I'm talking to a dune buggy supplier here about a 2.5 SOHC engine.

George