Anyone fitted twin carbs off 1800 to 1600TP in a Kombi?
If so any probs or difficulties.
Thanks
Joel ·
ive fitted type 3 solexs to a couple of upright motors b4
ive still got a set on my black bugs engine atm
the kombi carbs arnt really much different
they probably have the same base as each other so if they do u'd need some type 3 manifolds
the type 4 linkages work much better than the type 3 swivel kind and the fan housing may just need some modification with a hammer for clearance
-Joel
Warrenm ·
Thanks- I was hoping to be able to use linkages as well-makes it more simple in Kombi
barls ·
the main problem will be the manifolds as the 1600tps are close together in the holes where as the 1800 are further apart
Joel ·
thats why if they'll fit on type 3 manifolds ur laughing
koolkarmakombi ·
Any other pics dub74l?
how does it go with them?
I note you used the type 3 swivel thingo, did you need to mod the tinwear?
cheers
kkk
DUB74L wrote:ive fitted type 3 solexs to a couple of upright motors b4
ive still got a set on my black bugs engine atm
the kombi carbs arnt really much different
they probably have the same base as each other so if they do u'd need some type 3 manifolds
the type 4 linkages work much better than the type 3 swivel kind and the fan housing may just need some modification with a hammer for clearance
-Joel
Joel ·
heres another set done the same on one of my old motors
with the genny removed so u can see the setup
there was a bit of rooting around to make it work
they were off a late modle type 3 and had the vaccum ports for each cylinder on the sides of the manifolds instead of one single one off the back like earlier ones
these didnt agree with the beetle tinware so i cut them off and welded them up
the easier no fuss method is just use earlier manifolds
i had to run a new balance pipe too because of this
i was working as a fridgy at the time so i made one out of 3/8 hard drawn copper and used flare nuts
i also had to modify the linakges abit
u can see basically what ive done. turned the swivel upside down, shortened the rods. and mounted another pivot on the throttle shaft
i went this method cos i wanted factory proven reliable parts and also something that acted like stock but had a bit more go
-Joel
Joel ·
heres a couple more
this shows what i did to the manifolds, late ones have a vacuum line coming off both of those stubs, which hit the body when installed in a beetle so i cut them off welded them up and tapped a thread for a flare nut fitting into the spot where early manfolds have the balance pipe attachment
abit of work but i couldnt get hold of early manifolds at the time and an hours work welding was no biggy
this is how i made the linkage work
a second pivot thingy over the top of the original but at 90 degrees than silver soldered in place
i remove all the choke linkage crap too
dont need them around here
starts and idles fine with out them
i just swap the left and right choke elements over so they work in reverse ie hold the choke open not closed
Joel ·
oh yeah the tinware doesnt need any real changes
i'm a sook and have heaters in all my cars so a standard doghouse shroud fits altho the chokes hit on the heater outlets by a tiny bit so a tap with a hammer fixes that
but if u dont need heaters a 36hp style shroud would make life a hell of alot easier
also for aircleaners i just get the standard sports style pancake ones and lift them to clear the shroud
a 2" chrome exhaust tip does the job beautifully
and also all the gurus swear for proper air/fuel atomisation or something like that a 4" stack ontop of the carb is needed
thats why the old oil baths have them inside
altho i reckon its just to keep the oil from going down the carb....:duh:
76camper ·
nice work with the carbs and that fully sick exhaust :-P
Warrenm ·
Thanks for info and photos.
koolkarmakombi ·
Thanks heaps DUB74L, pics make it heaps clearer. I have been hoadring type 3 carbs for exactly this conversion. Howsitgo? Compare to Kads? Still can use a vacuum dizzy too....