L-Bug Bits

This may not be quite in the right place but I'm not selling anything or wanting just yet.

I'd like to know if the control arms and sway bar from a late ie74 on (with the 2 bolt struts) are easily obtainable. Either some one personally wrecking one or if you know of a wrecker that has one?

Here in NZ they are very rare... I haven't even seen a car with the 2 bolt struts let alone one being parted.

I may have the option of going for 944 brakes at a very resonable price. And even though they are somewhat overkill it is an easy way to get 4 wheel disk brakes and fit the Porsche wheels all at once 🙂

Now also
Anyone else have trouble with their gear stick vibrating? At motorway speeds it's so damn noisy you can't here yourself think !!!! 🙁

Any suggestions on why it might do this and how I can fix it

Thanks
Jeremy

Yes there pretty easy to obtain. The bush in the tunnel is worn or gone. thats why its rattling
I will add a Nylon bush and circlip for the gear shift rod to your WANTED listing wit hteh other stuff

Thanks Dave

The other thing I should sort out here (before it gets worse) is that the front end (down by the pedals) of my clutch cable tube is floating around. So every time I change gear it (the cable, or something?) makes a horrible screeching noise as the clutch is released.

S1fter suggested that my cable tube had come away from some of it's spot welds.

Whats the best way to describe how to fix this to a panel beater.

Our local Aircooled garage shut up and moved north, so it makes this sort of thing (and basic parts) harder to sort out 🙁

Thanks
Jeremy

that sounds right to me as well.... The entire pedal cluster will have to come out,,,, and then with a mirror inspect to see if the welds have broken.

May be better to braze it up than try n weld.

Following on from Dave's post - if the inspection shows that the front weld has broken away, you need to cut a flap about 3 inches square in the top of the tunnel, with the front edge of the flap about level with the pedal cluster shaft (so most of the flap is just aft of the cluster).

This will give you access to the weld point.

If you cut only the left, front and back sides and turn the flap up and over to the right, it's easier to bend it back down afterwards and re-weld the flap in place.

I have a clutch tube installed in my converted 68 semi-auto, so I'm giving you the "cut" position from that.

Also have a look at Graeme's remarkable "inside a bug" cutaways on this site - it will help you locate the weld points.

http://vwdcqinc.org.au/insideabug.html

Thanks Rob

The info is great, something else to add to my "to do list" 🙂

The Web site with the cut away pictures is fantastic, that will definately help with the location of the cut.

I notice the warning about how close the clutch tube is to the fuel line for when welding. Did you have any trouble with yours at all?

I need to change the post title to gear stick and clutch tube problems now... just in case anyone is looking for this info!! 😀

Cheers
Jeremy

I didn't do the conversion to manual on my car - a previous owner did that, so I don't know if there was any problem with the fuel line close by.

The rear weld broke loose on mine but it's not so close to the fuel line and was no problem when re-welding the clutch tube.