helbus ·
I have been pretty busy lately with renovations, new baby child, and a 356 restoration at work.
Aussieveedubbers · General Chit Chat
What have I been up to. Porsche 356
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/62221/what-have-i-been-up-to-porsche-356
helbus ·
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helbus ·
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helbus ·
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helbus ·
Had to remake the bottom 120mm of both doors. That is the inner frame and inner inner frame. Bottom skins fabrications still to be fitted.
[ Edited on 1-5-2007 by compayo ]
[ Edited on 1-5-2007 by compayo ]
helbus ·
Remade front 100mm of bonnet and also frame inside.
Owner wants everything metal finished.
Owner wants everything metal finished.
helbus ·
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Rusted section had to be cut out and new fabricated section welded in.
Rusted section had to be cut out and new fabricated section welded in.
helbus ·
Metal finished
matara ·
That looks like an 356B. Nice car! Are you putting new guards, nose and a bonnet skin on? If so how much did they cost and where did you get them from. The front nose section is available from your local Porsche dealer ex-germany for $3300. I will need one on my 58 A at some point in the future.
Cheers
Steve
[ Edited on 1-5-2007 by matara ]
Cheers
Steve
[ Edited on 1-5-2007 by matara ]
helbus ·
The engine lid has one opening, not two like your one in your avatar. The workshop manual the owner had in his hands was for a 1960 B series. So I may believe that it is a possibility that is what it is.
I have made a new front section for the bonnet skin. Already fitted and metal finished. I am fabricating most of the panel sections as most of them are small and a lot of them are internal. Owner is very fussy and it takes time to make it all correct.
The front clip is going back on. It is in reasonable shape, just had to come off to replace seams that had swollen with rust underneath. I think it is a UK delivery car, and the salt on the roads has taken its toll. Original RHD. I have been given a LHF corner panel (nose section) by the owner.
I have made a new front section for the bonnet skin. Already fitted and metal finished. I am fabricating most of the panel sections as most of them are small and a lot of them are internal. Owner is very fussy and it takes time to make it all correct.
The front clip is going back on. It is in reasonable shape, just had to come off to replace seams that had swollen with rust underneath. I think it is a UK delivery car, and the salt on the roads has taken its toll. Original RHD. I have been given a LHF corner panel (nose section) by the owner.
helbus ·
Latest update on 356 works.
Have fabricated and welded on rear sections of front guards and refitted bonnet skin.
Have fabricated and welded on rear sections of front guards and refitted bonnet skin.
helbus ·
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helbus ·
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helbus ·
Model is BT5 Super 90.
Makes more sense to a 356 enthusiast. 🤪
Makes more sense to a 356 enthusiast. 🤪
5PL1TDCS10N ·
Hi Helbus,
Can you tell us what something like this will end up costing, minus paint?
Cheers- Wayne
Can you tell us what something like this will end up costing, minus paint?
Cheers- Wayne
reub ·
Very envious.....one day, as they say 🙂
Bizarre ·
A mate just scored an original steel Golde for one of his
Bizarre ·
Oh... sorry.... BLOODY beautiful work
What is going to power this??
[ Edited on 16-5-2007 by Bizarre ]
What is going to power this??
[ Edited on 16-5-2007 by Bizarre ]
oval TOFU ·
You're well gifted Pete! Amazing metal work there mate.. Super90 huh? they're quite desirable I hear - 90HP...
helbus ·
Stock original 'super 90' engine. Yeah 90hp according to the service manual.Bizarre wrote:What is going to power this??
helbus ·
Probably end up being a $25k to get it out of the panel shop and into the paintshop.5PL1TDCS10N wrote:Hi Helbus,
Can you tell us what something like this will end up costing, minus paint?
Cheers- Wayne
VWCOOL ·
My sentiments exactly!Bizarre wrote:Oh... sorry.... BLOODY beautiful work
What is going to power this??
Stunning metalwork :thumb
jenz58 ·
wow Pete...nice!
So who's ride is this going to be?
Has Fidel been helping you on this as well as working on the driveway?! 😏
How long do you think the resto will take..it's looks like it is moving along well?👍
So who's ride is this going to be?
Has Fidel been helping you on this as well as working on the driveway?! 😏
How long do you think the resto will take..it's looks like it is moving along well?👍
helbus ·
I am off the 356 for a while as I have been commissioned by the boss to refabricate an aluminium front panel on an Austin Healey that has to be modified to be 50mm wider, and have race vents, light pods etc fabricated into it. Show car, may never see the track. LHD for an owner in the USA.
5PL1TDCS10N ·
This kinda of craftmanship always interests/amazes me. Too often a quick bang and bog is considered aceptable....
Thanks for sharing Helbus!
Thanks for sharing Helbus!
helbus ·
The bang and bog is a method often utilised by panel shops for a variety of reasons.
Quicker, for customer expectation or shop workflow
Poorly trained, lazy or non-experienced workers
Cost constraints based on a competitive smash quote market.
Corner cutting, and still charging for high level restoration or repair.
or simply doing what the customer wants. There are customers that choose that path as it is cheaper, quicker etc.
The work I am doing on the 356 is fully written down, diarised, all time accountable, digital pics of all work, and the quality is the first thing on the list. I will post more pics when I get back onto the job.
Quicker, for customer expectation or shop workflow
Poorly trained, lazy or non-experienced workers
Cost constraints based on a competitive smash quote market.
Corner cutting, and still charging for high level restoration or repair.
or simply doing what the customer wants. There are customers that choose that path as it is cheaper, quicker etc.
The work I am doing on the 356 is fully written down, diarised, all time accountable, digital pics of all work, and the quality is the first thing on the list. I will post more pics when I get back onto the job.
Hertz ·
As an experienced painter I can say that is very nice metal work. Well done Pete its a credit to you.
Notch Nut ·
Nice work Pete.:thumb
If only my skills as a fruiturer were as useful to my hobbies. Concrete shoes & bullet holes on a dub just don't cut it....😂
- Adam
If only my skills as a fruiturer were as useful to my hobbies. Concrete shoes & bullet holes on a dub just don't cut it....😂
- Adam
helbus ·
Back on the 356
Front clip clamped in place
Front clip clamped in place
helbus ·
RH side oxy fusion welded front clip. This is welded to the rear section that I had already made by hand to fit the door opening.
helbus ·
The new join all metal finished.
helbus ·
New sections made up around rh back corner of bonnet. All new hand made steel.
helbus ·
LH front weld for clip starting to take place now.
helbus ·
Front starting to look more complete.
reub ·
Looks fantastic 👍
helbus ·
I reckon the owner should run it around for a while in just clearcoat straight over the bare steel. It is costing him quite a substantial amount, so he might as well show it!
reub ·
I agree!
frenzix ·
excellent work, what guage steel are you using? Sounds like a reasonable price too..
Cheers, Tim
Cheers, Tim
helbus ·
Front metal finished ready for lead filling joins.
helbus ·
Last one for today
Dasdubber ·
Looking great mate - loving your work!
baybuscamperkid ·
wow, didnt know ANYONE did lead-swiping anymore!
Special Air Service ·
Pete, that is awesome stuff, I didnt realise anybody still used the oxy weld process for panel work, can you explain why you have used oxy instead of TIG etc. (for us uninitiated & far less skilled mortals).
Cheers
Brendan
Cheers
Brendan
helbus ·
1.0mm cold rolled sheet. I think it may be BHP CA3 I cannot confirm at this stage, but it has no coating on it, and is reasonably ductile.frenzix wrote:excellent work, what guage steel are you using? Sounds like a reasonable price too..
Cheers, Tim
helbus ·
Oxy is used to retain a very ductile material. The extreme heat anneals the metal and retains the malleability. By fusion welding with no wire or very little wire, you have no build up of material. This makes the two pieces of panel steel become one. The join becomes irrelevant. Yes it does warp the metal, but that is why I am a panel beater. To get the panel straight again. MIG or TIG create hard welds that become harder to work with. The hard weld is harder to shape, harder to hammer and harder to file. You cant metal finish them.
Special Air Service wrote:Pete, that is awesome stuff, I didnt realise anybody still used the oxy weld process for panel work, can you explain why you have used oxy instead of TIG etc. (for us uninitiated & far less skilled mortals).
Cheers
Brendan
helbus ·
Tacking lower door skin section.
This is tacked using MIG welder. Then welds ground back flat. Then welded using oxy fusion welding.
This is tacked using MIG welder. Then welds ground back flat. Then welded using oxy fusion welding.
helbus ·
RH door fitted and metal finished
helbus ·
And LH
Turbo54 ·
Is there much on this car that hasn't been replaced! Top work, I love seeing this stuff. I am in a totally different industry and rarely see what goes on under the skin. keep the pics coming.
T54
T54
vwkg ·
Looking great, I'm sure this will turn out a beautiful car.
penguin ·
Outstanding,
looks like you did make the right choice joining this mob Pete. To get you do this sort of work to this standard, they must love their work/customers cars as much as you do.
looks like you did make the right choice joining this mob Pete. To get you do this sort of work to this standard, they must love their work/customers cars as much as you do.
koolkarmakombi ·
Aaaaah the art of a craftsman.
Bet it feels good.
Hows the back?
Bet it feels good.
Hows the back?
helbus ·
They do stand by their quality of work, and the hours are put into the job and the customer pays for the hours as worked. It is a much fairer arrangement than just quoting a price and then cutting corners along the way.
I like the experience, the challenge and the calmness. I work in a back shed on my own with the radio blaring, and just working continuously for 9 hrs a day (RDO fortnightly). The car is on a level bench about 600mm off the ground, and the bench is used for comparative measuring to enable square, equal and level rebuilding. The height of the bench means I am never on the floor laying on my back. I can sit on a milk crate to do sills, and 2 crates or stand pretty straight for everything else.
As most cars are roadster or convertible, the roof is never a problem to reach, but with this car it will be dropped back down to have a quick look at the roof once the rest is finished.
The roof and the rear engine lid are pretty much untouched and look very good with no real work required on them.
One of the specifications required for this car is the panel gaps to be exactly 3.0mm as per the Factory workshop repair manual. So I have to have all gaps 3.2mm to allow for the 0.1mm paint each side. It is pretty delicate work at this stage. All locks and rubbers fitted to make sure this all happens correctly when being assembled at the end.
I like the experience, the challenge and the calmness. I work in a back shed on my own with the radio blaring, and just working continuously for 9 hrs a day (RDO fortnightly). The car is on a level bench about 600mm off the ground, and the bench is used for comparative measuring to enable square, equal and level rebuilding. The height of the bench means I am never on the floor laying on my back. I can sit on a milk crate to do sills, and 2 crates or stand pretty straight for everything else.
As most cars are roadster or convertible, the roof is never a problem to reach, but with this car it will be dropped back down to have a quick look at the roof once the rest is finished.
The roof and the rear engine lid are pretty much untouched and look very good with no real work required on them.
One of the specifications required for this car is the panel gaps to be exactly 3.0mm as per the Factory workshop repair manual. So I have to have all gaps 3.2mm to allow for the 0.1mm paint each side. It is pretty delicate work at this stage. All locks and rubbers fitted to make sure this all happens correctly when being assembled at the end.
jo_tas ·
:ocompayo wrote:One of the specifications required for this car is the panel gaps to be exactly 3.0mm as per the Factory workshop repair manual. So I have to have all gaps 3.2mm to allow for the 0.1mm paint each side. It is pretty delicate work at this stage. All locks and rubbers fitted to make sure this all happens correctly when being assembled at the end.
Wow.
Flintstones ·
Awesome work :thumb:thumb
Cheers
Cheers
VWFREAK ·
Very nice I'm jealous, good luck with the lead work, it's a bloody art form thats for sure.
helbus ·
Finally all finished. All metal, all door, bonnet and decklid gaps exactly 3.2mm. About 300hrs worth
I will get some more pics up when I get them.
I will get some more pics up when I get them.
reub ·
300hrs..at$65-$75/hr....adds up hey....
Seing this 356 gets me thinking of a speedster project....hmmm....the internet is an evil thing 😉
Seing this 356 gets me thinking of a speedster project....hmmm....the internet is an evil thing 😉
pete wood ·
Iwish4aSynchro ·
dam helbus u, i got nothing, im stumped to tell u how good your work is, what can i say.
Supreme:thumb:thumb:thumb
Supreme:thumb:thumb:thumb
helbus ·
The 356 was finished painted a couple months ago. I will get some newer current pics of it in it's finished painted bodyshell state. The owner took it home and is doing all assembly himself.
Gibbo ·
Awesome mate, just awesome.
reub ·
Yeah, Rich's car is cool....
So is this (very excited by it...)
http://www.specialtyauto.com/PORSCHE.htm
helbus ·
Pictures of finished car after another 200+hrs paintwork
helbus ·
And rear
reub ·
Awesome work!
Don't you hate getting those 'I WANT' pains....
Saw a sweet 356 in Hobart today at the Shannons car show... if only 🙂
Don't you hate getting those 'I WANT' pains....
Saw a sweet 356 in Hobart today at the Shannons car show... if only 🙂
penguin ·
You bastard Pete,
I would kill for a 356 and came damn near getting one about four months ago, even had the bank loan ready to buy it.... can I ask to live as a 356 owner vicariously though AVD????
I would kill for a 356 and came damn near getting one about four months ago, even had the bank loan ready to buy it.... can I ask to live as a 356 owner vicariously though AVD????
vwsteve ·
as an ex panel beater who has done many restos i have not seen many beaters who are capable of this kind of meticulous workmanship and patience, you are doing a top job and have top quality skills, its a dieing breed unfortunately, keep up the good work mate, top job👍
JVLRacing ·
OMG!😎 very nicehelbus wrote:Pictures of finished car after another 200+hrs paintwork
reub ·
These sorts of prices rule out every owning an original...helbus wrote:There is one in the showroom at work for sale. Rare and desirable maybe?
http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/productsb/_products_sub_group_details.asp?id=741
isky ·
mate Im speechless...I know you've probably heard it a million times before...you are one quality restorer. Id have paid you just to let me sit in the corner and watch you working on this. Nice job!!
HappyDaze ·
That sure is one very nice bit of work! I've been working on my 356 (1960 B coupe, ex.USA) for about a year. You sure have set a high standard.
Being a panel-beater (started in 1956), I know what is involved. Fortunately I kept all my tools, lead-wiping bats etc., and have replaced both door bottoms (inner and outer) as you have done - oxy welded of course! The R/H drive conversion was tricky - swapping dash panel & glove box, but turned out nice, WITHOUT bog. Need to correct some horrible Yank butchery - you know, slide hammer & 15 mm of bog etc. Should finish it in a couple of years. If I work out how to post photos, I will do so.
Cheers, Greg
Being a panel-beater (started in 1956), I know what is involved. Fortunately I kept all my tools, lead-wiping bats etc., and have replaced both door bottoms (inner and outer) as you have done - oxy welded of course! The R/H drive conversion was tricky - swapping dash panel & glove box, but turned out nice, WITHOUT bog. Need to correct some horrible Yank butchery - you know, slide hammer & 15 mm of bog etc. Should finish it in a couple of years. If I work out how to post photos, I will do so.
Cheers, Greg
isky ·
definitely post pics Greg...pm me if you cant work out how mate 🙂