What HP?

If you get a dyno reading of 165kw atw or near enough 225bhp, what does this equate to in meaningless manufacturer at the engine kw figures such as what is quoted with your Fords and HSV's????

Thanks.

man if your getting 225 bhp at the rear wheels don't bother combing your hair back it will get there all by its self

I would suggest a 20% loss off "pretend" figures equates to RWHP

So you are talking a 200kW motor

Show off 😘

my understanding is that drivetrain losses are between 15-30% on pretty much any car, unless it's got straight cut gears or something...

i reckon aircooled vee-dubs have a fairly efficient drivetrain compared with some vehicles...

kai

So 76 RWKW (101hp) would be ok ish for a kombi?

It all depends on the car.

Front wheel drives are quite efficient, normally around the 17% losses mark (83% efficiency). This is mainly because they don't have any 90 degree ring and pinion style gears. All the shafts in a FWD are inline with each other.

AWD's are crap, normally as bad as 30% losses.

Everything else is somewhere in between.

More modern cars would also be down because on the power things hanging off it

Air cond, steering etc etc

Lots of 22.8% and 14.98694% 'fudge factors', but in the rear world, rear-wheel HP is near-as-dammit to flywheel kW, minus a few

eg: Commodores I have had spun 'n run: Quoted 5.0-litre 165kW = 160hp; HSV 185kW = 178-180; 220kW gen IIIs = 210 to 225rwhp, modded gen IIIs = 260-300 depending on mods

Nice figure, but a hint as to why there have been dramas with your ECU

lol...and gearbox munching!

[ Edited on 30-5-2007 by VWCOOL ]

greedy53 wrote:man if your getting 225 bhp at the rear wheels don't bother combing your hair back it will get there all by its self

Yeah quite happy, achieved 165kw atw at 9.5psi. Was able to get 180kw atw at 13psi well before redline but started to max out the injectors.

Ummm now how do I stop the wheels from spinning? :P