Hi everyone, as some of you know im in the process of fitting a ej22 into my 85 caravelle which is going well and hopefully the motor will be bolted in next weekend.
I was told by a mechanic to remove the little valve thing from my thermostat and enlarge the hole a bit. Ive herd about this before but im unsure if i need to do it for mine, and if i do im unsure exactly how much i should enlarge the hole by? Any advice would be great,
Thanks,
Alex.
VWCOOL ·
Is your mechanic a Subaru powertrain engineer? Might be an idea to leave it as Subaru intended for now...
seagull ·
Tell him to stop loking down the eye of his dick & tell him its a Subaru & not a ford XF
72RSbug ·
because the engine and radiator are much further apart then in a subaru I drilled 3 2mm holes in the thermostat to decrease the drop in temperature once the radiator is used and it seems to work pretty good
just so you know. I know have the stocker 85deg one in place. NO extra holes. Flipper valve still in place. Keeps the engine nicely warm without getting hot from what I can see. And subaru designed that way...😉
subaruboxer ·
I gave it a try with a 3 mm hole. And I would not do it!
The only thing it did, was that it took three times as long to get the engine up to it´s operating temps. I use a stock thermostat without a hole.
crazyfiggi ·
Thanks for the advice everyone, gona leave it standard for now with no hole and see how it goes. If i want to try a hole its not hard to pull the thermostat out and put one in.
GTMac ·
I have not run a thermostat for about 1 1/2 years.......whoops!:duh
Thought I had one until I checked the other day.
pete wood ·
🙄
I hope you have super thin oil.
GTMac ·
Pete,
Going to Suby today with your part no. for a thermostat 🙂
pete wood wrote:🙄
I hope you have super thin oil.
pete wood ·
Good man,
I hope enjoy bleeding the cooling system up. 🙄
ElusiveStranger ·
Dunno what happened to my post yesterday.
Use the thermostat as is
Use a flow through header tank. Mine's just connected between the H2O manifold and the matrix lines - works a charm on the bleeding. I had a single feed from the bottom of the tank before and it gave me slight problems
(forgot to look at where you are, mine's from a UK Vauxhall Fronteria)
In Helbus' thread he's used flow through (custom made) between the main water outlet and rad
HTH
GeorgeL ·
Just make sure that your bypass hose is connected correctly from the outlet manifold to the nipple on the thermostat housing. That provides the signal to open the thermostat. A hole in the thermostat will actually delay warmup by forcing the engine to warm up all of the coolant rather than just the coolant in the engine.
If you're running a big heater like the Canadian Vanagon folks there is a bypass mod to keep the engine cool while the heater is running.
ElusiveStranger ·
GeorgeL wrote:Just make sure that your bypass hose is connected correctly from the outlet manifold to the nipple on the thermostat housing. That provides the signal to open the thermostat. A hole in the thermostat will actually delay warmup by forcing the engine to warm up all of the coolant rather than just the coolant in the engine.
If you're running a big heater like the Canadian Vanagon folks there is a bypass mod to keep the engine cool while the heater is running.
Bypass:
We're not that cold here (UK) 😉 & I'm not running a clorifier (SP? - water heaters) either.
Tom developed it for more extreme cold & I've heard some Aussies have bought it as they run clorifiers.
I've actually installed a 'H' type bypass between the matrix and engine with an isolator fitted in the "-" part. All's well, including during our winter months.