(no subject)

i have never looked into it so can only say whet i have seen, but there used to be a purple and pink oval with i belive a 13B turbo in it running around the west ryde area (sydney) then later on around armidale (northern nsw) though i don't know what size rotary it was fitted with then (still had an intercooler sticking out the top of the deck lid though).

as they say and many to come "how longs a piece of string"
ur bro is an expert at this ask him?
cheers
rhys

Hi

It depends on the original factory weight of your bug.

From the RTA website,
“Original weight” is the original (unmodified) “tare weight” of the sedan version of the vehicle model fitted with the largest engine available for the model but without optional accessories such as air conditioning and tow bar.

So multiply your original weight by 2.5 for turbo motors and 3 for NA.

The engine capacity to be used for rotary engines is the displacement of all rotors x 2, so a 12A = 2400cc

So to run a 2400cc motor (12A) your bug would need to weigh 800 kg from the factory.

1302Steve

hey do what im doing, put a golf motor in it!
cheap, reliable, fits easy, and best of all its a vw engine :thumb

aaaaaaaarrrrrrrgggggghhhhhhh!!!
Not another rotary.:cussing:cussing:cussing

Put a V6 in it and smile everytime you put your foot down, or even sit in the car 😀

The best place to look for ideas is
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewforum.php?f=19

You will need to know your beetle model before you can find it's weight. If your in QLD your vehicle weight should be printed on your rego sticker.

this mediocre mind says get the car that the engine is suited to...Rotary = small Jap car...sounds crap but screams.
V6 in Larger Jap car or Holden Family sedan.

Oh Volkswagen... they are great with VW motors, although I guess you are increasing the value of my car by doing the Engine Swap , so maybe it has merit....Hack away cobber...😀

Hack away indeed!
VW might have even known what they were doing when they built their motors!?

A rotisserie in a VW? Please...

A Holden motor in a VW?
Something's not right about that either...

Keep it aircooled man!

i'll be the devils advocate and say that the rotary is a great swap. They're relatively cheap, very small and lightweight, smoooooooth like nothing else, rev to the moon and make heaps of power.

An EJ20T is also a great swap but its more complicated, you have to cut away the body because the DOHC heads are too big.

Either option if you go for a late model jap motor you'll have to go for Programmable Fuel injection which is BIG $$$

Aircooled motors are great, but they just cant compare with modern motors in terms of price/power/longevity. The only reason I want to go down the aircooled path is because I couldnt have anything else in the back.

Hi Jon,

I have been into Chev's for those who want to know, $30,000-$50,000 for just the engine, (1100HP) in the States.......

I am relatively new to the VW scene as such (8yrs ago lapsed racer) but I have to point out a few things about yr post.

Rotary engines (one's that make any power anyway) are not cheap at all...... maybe for a std 12A or 13B, but when u want 2 make the pwr of a 20B triple rotor on Methanol and Nitrous to run a sub 9sec 1/4 mile they suddenly become REALLY expensive.

Also, have you ever tried to pick up a 12A even? they need 2 solid, 3 mediocre guys to pick the engine up off of the floor, that is certainly NOT "lightweight", shit, even I can lift my magnesium cased VW engine onto a Jack stand by myself.

F that with a Rotary lead grenade.

They are not inexpensive as they get around 5MPG for a serious HP one.

And the fact that you are left simply with 1 carb or a piece of yr Fuel inj when they blow up(and they do) means a whole new engine.

If I even run a big end in my dub, then $600 later I am back on the road, NOT $1500 for a 'wrecker' engine and all the nonsence to boot.

Forget that, the 400lb saved in weight of a Rotary vs a mag Vw engine means I can run less Hp in an ACVW than the Rotary to achieve the same times. Maybe more money in the short term but less in the long.
You'll never sell me the merits of that engine in a bug.

M

About 15 yrs ago I had an 1835 in a sleeper back before imports were the rage.Everyone who owns a vdub knows of the ridicule you sometimes cop when the guy in his stepped up Torana or whatever pulls up beside.
There's nothing sweeter than blowing these guys away and seeing the looks on their faces in your rear view as the dak dak pulls away. This small victory is at its sweetest when its a flat four aircooled vw engine.
We all know it takes a bit of money to make the humble wobbly engine go fast but when it does, man ,there's nothing sweeter. (tear in eye).
Be patient and stay aircooled.😀

technology is good, we would not be here with out. I say if you want to chnage over to another engine go for broke. Half the fun in life is doing what others have been telling you can't be done.

As for $$$$ it will cost what you can spend, if you don't have much then you will find away just don't turn into a free loader and I am sure all your mates will chip in a hand or two.

Che Castro wrote:Either option if you go for a late model jap motor you'll have to go for Programmable Fuel injection which is BIG $$$

That is not true. If you buy a front cut then you can use the factory ECU like I did. Multipoint sequential fuel injection is one of the major advantages of my jap engine swap.

The only advantage of the air-cooled vw motor is it's light and simple. No-one could seriously try to tell me that the 30's technology vw motor is better engineered than the 90's technology quad cam V6 in the back of my car. And it's not a crap Holden V6.

And the people that say VW engined VW's are much better than jap engined VW's obviously haven't been for a ride in one.

To me a car is simply a piece of engineering artwork. Brand means absolutely nothing, I appreciate it for what it is. To me it isn't putting a jap motor in a german car, it is putting a beautifully engineered internal combustion engine in a just as well engineered light weight 2 wheel drive offroader to make a vehicle that anyone who appreciates good engineering will appreciate.

Kafar70 you understnad what i want to do, i am looking at going fast and all but i dont ever wantmto run a rotary, i asnt to BE ridiculed just so i can blow trhere doors off... if you understand what i mean.

All i want in my 66 beetle is a roughly 13 second streeter... something that CAn be a daily driver and also be quick... i say if youve got yourself a good block, slap a turbbo on it and then run low boost when your on the street, but then when you take it down the quarters turn up your PSI to BLOW there doors right off... its not as hard as you think.

Anyway in a special kit (mind blank on name) you can fit a dial to your dash to have a fast boost in PSI when ever you need it.

Hope this helps you out, remember

STAY AIRCOOLED, STAY WITH WHAT GOD MADE VW's TO RUN ON!!!!!!!!!!!

All right all right people, horses for courses for christ sake.....

And as for cutting up a vw to fit a rotary - its only mods to the front to fit a radiator. I've seen worse things done to VW's than that. Rotaries are small enough to fit in the engine bay no worries without cutting it to shreds - have a look at Zenjoes car - nice carbied rotary conversion.

There will always be small minded people that cant appreciate how much work and engineering goes into a proper conversion.

Having said that, I would shoot someone if they cut up an oval or a split beetle to do a conversion.

Fuel consumption is related to power creation. You cant have one without the other - big block chev, jap turbo, or webbered vw, if you are making big numbers, you need to use lots of fuel to do it. Rotaries will be slightly worse as they can have overlap and push unburnt fuel out the exhaust ports.

I'm with wes (unless its an oval or split or something rare) - its all engineering / autromotive artwork, and what suits one person wont suit another.

My 2c worth 😀

Doug

PS - God didnt invent the VW - Ferdinand Porsche did:vader

quote

STAY AIRCOOLED, STAY WITH WHAT GOD MADE VW's TO RUN ON!!!!!!!!!!!

So I hope the turbo you are running will be of an origanal vw. Remind me again what models those orginal turbos came out on??????
Who cares where the motor or so forth comes from as long as the owner is happy with his car.

Andy42 wrote:So I hope the turbo you are running will be of an origanal vw. Remind me again what models those orginal turbos came out on??????

Exactly. Tell me how many VW parts on Rod Penroses drag motor. none (could be wrong but I doubt it).

Build a 150HP vw motor and tell me how many vw parts on it, not many I'm guessing.

Which VW's come with webers?

It's funny the line people draw on what is and isn't vw, and what should and shouldn't go into one. Some people are way too judgmental.

To run 13's with a vdub engine you'll probably need to mortgage your house or put off buying one for a couple of years.
turbo's and blowers sound great but they all have there own share of problems which only more money can fix

If you wanted cheap, easy hp I would probably do an extend ported 13B with big 50mm webber carby - no efi to worry about, big-ish HP, easy conversion.

Down sides - bad fuel efficiency, high idle speed, possibly slightly bad driveability down low.

Quick in a straight line though....

Andy42 wrote:quote

STAY AIRCOOLED, STAY WITH WHAT GOD MADE VW's TO RUN ON!!!!!!!!!!!

pssst......God didnt make VW's... 😉 some nut job German did :P

kafer70 wrote:About 15 yrs ago I had an 1835 in a sleeper back before imports were the rage.Everyone who owns a vdub knows of the ridicule you sometimes cop when the guy in his stepped up Torana or whatever pulls up beside.
There's nothing sweeter than blowing these guys away and seeing the looks on their faces in your rear view as the dak dak pulls away. This small victory is at its sweetest when its a flat four aircooled vw engine.
We all know it takes a bit of money to make the humble wobbly engine go fast but when it does, man ,there's nothing sweeter. (tear in eye).
Be patient and stay aircooled.😀

I actually didn't mind Subarus in Vdubs, but after this man's brilliant explanation of the truth about VW wickedness, I'm sticking to aircooled flat fours, and there's nothing wickeder then that.
Cheers(sorry about the wickeds)
Josh.
:thumb

Baja Wes wrote:

Che Castro wrote:Either option if you go for a late model jap motor you'll have to go for Programmable Fuel injection which is BIG $$$

That is not true. If you buy a front cut then you can use the factory ECU like I did. Multipoint sequential fuel injection is one of the major advantages of my jap engine swap.

The only advantage of the air-cooled vw motor is it's light and simple. No-one could seriously try to tell me that the 30's technology vw motor is better engineered than the 90's technology quad cam V6 in the back of my car. And it's not a crap Holden V6.

And the people that say VW engined VW's are much better than jap engined VW's obviously haven't been for a ride in one.

To me a car is simply a piece of engineering artwork. Brand means absolutely nothing, I appreciate it for what it is. To me it isn't putting a jap motor in a german car, it is putting a beautifully engineered internal combustion engine in a just as well engineered light weight 2 wheel drive offroader to make a vehicle that anyone who appreciates good engineering will appreciate.

Say no more 😀

I guess we can all agree we all like the vw in all it's shapes and forms regardless of what pushes them along.
My personal view for those who are interested is "I'd rather use my money to make horsepower than to buy it". I guess this will put the cat amongst the pidgeons.
But! for those who don't I salute you for looking outside the square.:thumb:thumb

i reckon if you have a VW engine number it's a vw. whatever you do to the case that makes it go faster, be it bigger cylinders, better heads, more petch, or turbos or whatever, if its still a flat four with a vw case, and you blow away toranas, and it still goes 'dak' occasionally, it's cooool.

my 2c

that way when the torana limps up to you at the drivethru, and asks what you've got under the hood, you can say, a worked VW engine. then you beam and watch another vw enthusiast in the making woohoooo

😀:bounce

Peter Leonard wrote:i reckon if you have a VW engine number it's a vw.

So if I stamp a VW engine number on my V6 then it will be a VW, fair enough 😀

yep, but first u have to file off your other one. and bash the case into a flat four configuration... and lose the watercooling.. 😀

if you want to have a rotary , work it to do 13 sec Quarters, then why not start out by getting the car that has one fitted.
A Rotary Vehicle.
Will save you heaps of work, you could sell off all that Low tech Vw stuff, and you'll end up with a car that Aerodynamically will be suited to the speeds that you will do.
Surely if you want to go later technology Engine then you will want later technology body styling,
none of that slow speed economy stuff that Beetles were designed for.😀

yeh . . . i ddnt have my heart set on a rotary . . . i hate the sound of them . . . i was just interested . . . chances are ill get brendon to build me up a larger displacement engine when i want it . . . . the rotary idea was simply an thought . . . i like the views of ppls ..... shit stirrin is fun

cheers
adz

I have the ultimate engin for a bug (well I don't actually have one..but I'm working on it.) anyway how about this...sub 70kg 2L v8, 14000rpm rev limit and about 320hp? and apparently mortals can afforde one..but don't quote me on that. 🙂

555bug wrote:14000rpm rev limit

Mini F1 engine?
Hello, no normal engine besides motor cycles can get anywhere near that rpm.
Or arent you being serious(sorry, daftness)?
Josh

Ok 555 I'm biting this time, what is this v8 .?
It does sound good, must be a short stroke to get those revs.

What about the Revtec?

God home grown Aussie flat four - nothing like anything else on the market...

Good horsepower, unreal efficiency and still a flat four... the guts are different but still four cylinders horizontally opposed...

http://www.revetec.com/

Hi

A little known fact, every rotary is made under liscence to NSU, a part of Audi, a part of VW.

I like these Oxy boxers, wasserboxers with the water jackets cutoff. Thats what Dave Stocker is running in his drag car, it will be intresting to see how far he can push his motor with a VW case.

You can build up a pretty tough 2110 cc AC motor that is still a VW motor and is meant to 2110 cc, not a bored & strocked 1600 cc.

1302Steve

Join a few whipper-snipper motors together and away ya go!

High revs, light and compact, air-cooled. Just need to stamp a VW engine number on it and you're set.

:P


BTW
those revetec engines look sweet.
Just added that site to my favorites!

[Edited on 24-5-2003 by 56astro]

i KNEW that comment about the VW engine number was gonna get me in trouble 😉

...Revetec.... God's speed to those guys,
should be a real winner.
I'd love to put one of those in a car.

Guys, guys, guys...Let the man do what he wants!
I have only air in my bug but my bus is another story!

240hp & 309Nm anyone? And so far the whole conversion has only cost me 4K including buying the bus!

And yes thats a 6 cylinder Subaru (3.3ltr).

[Edited on 1-6-2003 by humpty]

Its always interesting to hear someone talk KRAP about rotaries.
Firstly Marty you must be piss weak I can lift a 13b by myself high enough to sit it on a crate or whatever admitedly not real high off the ground as motors in general are quite heavy. I have had about 10 different Rotary Mazdas and can vouch for their worth, It does Shiit me to tears to hear someone who obviously knows nothing about rotary motors do their damndest to scare people away, have you ever had a rotary or did your mates with the Chevs {a known light motor} tell you they were krap.
You can have a rotary propel your small car be it rx mazda or vw down the quarter mile in 12 - 13 seconds be quieter than the standard vw {because you dont live in the eighties with a bridgeport you now have a turbo} and still be quite economic when driven sensibly, for example my rx7 took me from jinderbine in the snow to sydney, 535 klms for 1 $32 tank of juice.
If you dont know what you are doing
then
you simply dont know what you are doing
but its best not to run around telling everyone.
you can make well over 300 hp with a stock turbo rotary if you set it up right and I cant really guess what VW gearbox you want to hook up to it without the gearbox being the weakest link in the drive chain.
I have only ever blown a rotary up by ripping a radiator hose and cooking it which just ment it used water but it still ran hard, and once from running about 25 psi boost briefly when I blew a wastegate actuator hose off and it didnt tell the wastegate to back off which would have made a pretty monumental mess off a piston motor too and probably even sooner.
And you can buy all the parts from mazda to rebuild it, and again if you know what youre doing thats not necassarily a huge expense either,
Triple rotor 20B engines are expensive because they are very rare comparatively speaking and what sort of mega strength VW gearbox would you try to fit it to, and what would you do with the six inches of motor hanging out the back of the VW,
Now when you blow one of the "grenades up leaving only a carby"
what exactly do you "BLOW UP"?
melt a hole in a piston? rotors are cast iron.
Snap a crank? never come across it under the 500 hp mark.
Drop a valve? dont have any!
Break a cam shaft? no such thing.
the only thing that kills rotarys is leaning out the air fuel mix too much which will take out an apex seal, or boil them dry as with any motor its pretty bad news.
As far as over reving is concerned you're more likely to explode a flywheel before you damage the internals of the motor and at which point you are at least 4 thousand revs over you power peak and your just being stupid reving over 10 grand.
As for cutting metal. where? they fit in the engine bay second only to a vw motor and mounting a radiator causes little more interuption than mounting a modern stereo in the dash, If being an original VW is the only way to go then be prepared to go slower than the rotary powered VWS.
You can make a VW motor hammer but I doubt you could do it for the same sort of cash outlay.
A fuel injection computer can be picked up out of the trading post second hand for about $500, nearly everything else comes with the imported motor, or you can do the blowthru setup with carby you just need a malpasi rising rate regulator and a decent fuel pump, you can setup fail safe cutouts for boost levels and put water injection onto it with a water level boost canceling mechanism.
$1350 for the motor from the importer
$500 to $1100 used or brandnew microtech or similar computer
Maybe $300 for fuel pump, surge tank radiator etc
and $600 or so for the engine adapter kitt.
You do the math $2750 can you get 300 hp out of your VW motor for that money and still be smooth and drivable like a normal car?
Having said that the law is structured in a way that means all you can have is a normally aspirated 12A which is about 130 hp.
So if you strictly need to be "legal" then maybe a scooby doo motor like an EJ20 turbo which is a bit cheaper and metal work is minimal and if that concerns you then maybe its better to stick to the original engine for originality
.:puke
Originality great but it is just that, and originality wasn't fast at all.

Cheers Tony

so there :P

😀

A turbo rotary would be great if it was legal.

As for non-vw engined vw's not drawing any attention at shows, see how many people stand around the back of my car asking me questions at the next show. And see the smile on peoples faces if I take them for a spin.

cmon go for a golf motor like me!
smooth, quiet, reliable, long lasting and fuel injected with potential to make big power, and its a vw motor.
no worries with the sump hanging low either:thumb
i have explored the option of rotaries but they ARE too heavy and DONT last, unless u wanna spend big dollars.
subaru motors are nice but the EA81 does not produce the horsepower of a 1800 golf motor and other subi motors require a lot of body work to be removed, and the sump then hangs low.
the golf motor fits inside the rear valance, and fits under my tail and will fit under a stock decklid with lid standoffs.
something to think of!!!!!!!!

Mini F1 engine?
Hello, no normal engine besides motor cycles can get anywhere near that rpm.
Or arent you being serious(sorry, daftness)?
Josh

HELLO?!?

R-O-T-O-R

Rotories regularly rev freely to 14k with nothing more than a mild port....

ive had many a different car from v8 to a turbo 3cyl including an rx2. and the only car which i have had no engine trouble(non what so ever!!!) was the rotory. it never missed a beat and had bucket loads of power(low 13's mild port and weber). if i had the money for a conversion(shouldnt be that much i dont think) i would have notch rotory powered. maybe in the near future😀

You may well get 14 grand out of a rotary but Like I said youre then being stupid.
youre power is over and done with by 8 grand with a factory turbo rotary and most port jobs until you start on the big bridge, j ports and peripheral ports, and even then you wont be making any power till you have the carb/injection upsized and the exhaust set up
So even though they may well rev really high its just a good way to score the housings and get chatter marks from the standard steel seals.
Although I am an avid rotory enthusiast There is a reason I have Aussie veedubbers.com as My home page and not Aussie rotor heads .com because I enjoy the good down to earth attitude of the veedubbers and dont miss the imbosile "rotors are nuts bloke look watch me do skids yeh yeh and donuts woo hoo mine revs to 21 thousand revs all day every day mate fully sick mate!,watch me do more skids!!!" attitude.
They are a good reliable motor these days after all its been 34 years since R100s were released. The original 10A rotarys got a bad name again from ignorance, they were new motors with relatively little research on component materials because it all costs money and Mazda didnt have a lot to play with in the 60s.
they came to a point where they had to draw a line, they couldnt afford to spend any more money researching Felix Wankel designed engine for commercial release so it was a case of either release it onto the market or shelve it, they chose to release it and the rest is history.
Rotory engines that dont last are most often the result of people who rev them to 14 grand or think they know what they are doing but really dont when they rebuild them.
Rebuilding a Rotary motor is a thourough and precise job, requires finnese and attention to detail or you get a "grenade" thats hard to start.
So to put things in perspective vw enthusiasts that have no real knowledge of rotary motors but will talk with the greatest of authority about how bad they are, annoy me like you wouldnt believe.

Everyone is welcome to have an opinion but its a good idea to at least be informed before talking kraaap!
I am sure You can understand my frustration,
If I were to Say VWS are craap, they are the slowest pieces of craap made in the 20th century, they leak oil, they catch fire, they roll over easy and they flip around backwards at high speed. they are hitlers revenge blah blah blah oh and they are ugly too. all things we have heard before but also things we understand to be untrue and just the result of ignorance.

no way i'm gonna put a rotary mower in my ride on 😀

i believe.. not thru ignorance, that the 'dak' noise a vw makes is kinda half the spirit of it. the shape is cool, but heck you could fibreglass mould one and glue it onto a japanese (or whatever) car if ya wanted to. for me it's making power and style with what you've been given to work with. type threes type ones combis fours, 2.5s and all the others....
the simplicity and ruggedness of the standard VW configuration engine has it's appeal for me. and i think i speak for myself there
😀

C'mon. There's nothing wrong with fitting another engine if you're not up to the challenge of improving the performance of an air cooled flat four. 😀 OK, so you'll never be a real dubber - but you can still pretend...

A friend at work has a dyno-proven 390kW WRX; but he paid other people a lot of money to get it that way. I'll take the satisfaction of building my own VW engine to produce the performance I want any day.

yes i agree, rotary engines rock 🙂

Mmmm the only reason I would go for a VW aircooled is purely so i can say It was a vee dub motor when I dust ppl 🙂

Other than that I would probably fit an EJ20T if there was no body cutting required.

Hi all

This is a very interesting read, with some good suggestions coming out too. That Revetec site is well worth a visit.

As for the engines, Wes hit the nail on the head with the comment about modern engines.... If engineers haven't been able to improve the combustion engine in the last 50 years since the T1 engine was designed then we've all got big problems....

Thats not to say that we should all run out and fit modern Jap engines that are efficient, quite etc but all of us have different goals.

Some people love the simplicity of the T1 engine- and engines don't come much simplier than that (or do they??? correct me if I'm wrong, it has happened B4 and seems to quite regularly 🙂 )

Some people love the character and charm (oil...) of the T1 and it is certainly nice to keep original cars original. There is something we can all appreciate when we look at a well restored oval or split- especially with modern cars looking as they do.

But then there are those who like horsepower and going fast, but still like the appeal of the VW Beetle (or T2 or T3 etc)- and they're going to be hard to please with a T1 engine- so why not look at other options.....

Me... well I'd luv to fit a T4 engine to my Beetle, I like the character of the flat 4 aircooled engine, I'd like it to go a little quicker than it currently does, be strong and reliable, and the T4 seems to satisfy that- it will never be as efficent or make the HP of a modern water cooled engine- but thats not what I'm after

So I say ... go for your life, make it go quick if that's what your after

Oh yeah and remember the old saying about speed costs money... how fast do you want to go....

😀

Cheers
Jeremy

[Edited on 2-6-2003 by Jeza]

if you have the funding go all out, the quicker the better. is there anything better then blowing away a lil 4 with a big exhust in a vw, i don't think so...
😀

If you blow someone away in your VW engined vw, they just think you have a WRX or porsche motor in the back anyway. I remember one guy in a GTi swift wouldn't believe it was a 1915 vw motor that beat him. Even after he looked at the motor he still didn't know what it was.

Now I will beat them by so much they will never know what was in the back. I will still be satisfied that I created the monster myself [insert evil laugh here]

wicked

I've been thinking (can ya smell the wood burning?) and I reckon one of those VW W8 engines in a beetle would be awesome.

What duya reckon?

I'd LOVE to see it, but I bet they cost lot$$$$$!!!

Quickbug wrote:

Mini F1 engine?
Hello, no normal engine besides motor cycles can get anywhere near that rpm.
Or arent you being serious(sorry, daftness)?
Josh

HELLO?!?
R-O-T-O-R
Rotories regularly rev freely to 14k with nothing more than a mild port....

HELLO?!?! yourself. The engine quoted was a 2L V8 that revved to 14000, certainly not normal.

Sorry Herbie but regardless of what power they put out they all sound shit.
I crewed on a series 7 for the 94 bathurst 12 hour. (the one that was being lapped every half hour by the factory ones) it sounded crap, and was factory except for exhaust and ECU. And the bloody 2 stroke oil stuff that we had to put in it would kill the guys doing rear tyre changes.

I dont like the subaru conversion in anything non-kombi because the sumps are too low.

jeez, tell us what you really think Chris 😀

PS - I agree 😉

They are an aquired taste, I agree, very few sound "nice"

Hey CF I totally agree about the sound...Not nice (to me anyway!). And besides, no one I have ever heard of, has ever made one work in a VW road car. Can't seem to get the gear ratios right for the Rotary donk.
As for the Subi conversion...You may remember that we have a Notch that we built 6 years ago with a EJ20T in it. No real clearance problems with that! In fact my bug with a BERG sump is closer to the ground! And if I had the coin I would like to dry sump it......Maybe one day! If clearance was really a problem you could always section the sump! Scarry! My EG33 conversion is well on the way & know of a guy in the US that has sectioned his EG33 sump and loads of other EJ22 owners too! So it can be done. Though the loss of oil capacity does make me wonder!

:o CF? you havent been talking to Tait have you?

Maybe unwins car is too low. I've never liked the look of the sump on his. He broke it twice at Mt Cotton.

The Subaru 6 is nice. Hellbug did one in a T3. I thought it looked neater than the original WBX.

Hey Chris (CF!), I haven't touched base with Tait in ages...He lives down in Rocko & I only get down that way during the week, when he's workin'. Besides he's off the VW trip anyhow! The EG33 goes in in 2 weeks...God willing! I haven't seen Unwins car...Though I have heard about it! Hows your Fasty these days?
Back to this topic...
As for cutting up your car (for the Subi donk)...It all depends what you stick the EJ into...In a late bus, she slids straight on in (though the gas tank is an issue). In an splitty, just a little trimming (same fuel tank issue). In a TIII notch/fasty you'll have to trim the floor, forward of the engine, above the trans. In a bug...Loads to do there!

We clear on the Subi conversion...As for the Rotor Motor...They are tiny...Should be an easy swap, but good gear ratios are tuff to find for the rotaries characteristics, so I hear.

my fastback is immobile at present. Needs throttle position sensor and fuel pump. Will probably need a little dyno time to check A/F as I played around with the fuel regulator in my kombi. Dont know what pressure it was running before. It hasnt moved since Easter last year. $1000 worth of tyres on it and they have probably gone hard and have as much grip as a 145 crossply.