Well my 1966 bug has been off the road for more than a year now. What started out as some mild engine changes and a gearbox upgrade (that never eventuated), has turned into a complete rebuild of the car.
I've now got the car stripped of its guards, suspension removed, Porsche brakes are gone etc. All that remains is the shell and its sitting on stands.
The reason all this happened is that after a few conversations with Rod Penrose, I discovered I needed to change a lot more things to improve the reliability of my setup if I wanted to extract very serious HP from it for any extended period of time. This meant some serious engine changes... which then got a little out of control.
The end result of all the parts chasing, machining and custom made parts will be a 2443cc twin turbo'd, twin intercooled engine, water cooled heads, setup for sub 7:1 compression, flanged crank, 4 stage dry sump system, twin plate clutch, around 8500 rpm and potential for about 400-500rwhp. The engine build is on hold till the last of the machining work is finished and will be posted on another thread when it kicks into full swing.
Having that much power meant that using a vw gearbox was going to be pretty pointless. I'd been previously trying to source a custom built box from Rancho. That was for the 2332 engine, but as it turned out I would have probably broken that box inside a year anyway.
So the only option was to go porsche. 915 boxes are good for about 300hp, or more if you spend money on them. The g50's are massive, and require an absurd amount of cutting away of the chassis from what I've seen of other people cars. Unless I were to go 1/2 or full tube frame chassis, G50 was off the cards. I did come very close to getting a G50 though, and found a 2wd converted 5 speed for $4300 in sydney.
But as it turns out Dave Butler had a 930 box. It didnt take much to persuade him to sell it either. These boxes are used in the Ultima GTO's with 500hp small block V8's on them. In stock form they handle 550hp, and with an oil cooler and remote oil pump they are basically the same box used in the 750hp 935 race cars. At last an indestructable gearbox. THe down side is that the ratio's are very high, but that can be fixed with a ratio change down the track.
Now with an engine and gearbox sorted, I needed a way to get the power to the ground. It had been my plan to widen the guards and put some very serious rubber under the car. I've had the car that looks stock that goes like a rocket. Now Im going all out, the outward appearance is going to have to have as much intimidation factor as the engine sound will have.
To make all this possible I was going to have to completely re-work the suspension on the existing chassis, or just build a new one and start from scratch. I scored a swing axel chassis to use as a donor pan and went about cutting and clearancing for the gearbox.
So for suspension I've sourced all 1988 944 Turbo components. These are the widest rear trailing arms made for the 944's and increase the wheel track by around 100mm with the wheels I will be using.
The front suspension is going to be converted to a custom Mcpherson strut arrangement using 944 turbo A-Arms, and spindles etc. All the suspension is going to be fully adjustable, so I can set the car up for motokhana or drags. I want the car to handle, stop and go.
Anyway enough background... I've spend a few weekends contemplating how to best attack the new chassis and today I started to get serious with it.
930 Gearbox Clearancing
My unique approach to an IRS conversion.
Front gearbox mount/crossmember, and front torsion housing re-inforcing (the cardboard template).
So thats about all for now. I hope to finish the front gearbox mount tomorrow. Im going to try and make regular posts for this build. The goal is to have it finished in 5 months.
Cheers,
Ian Swinkels
Dasdubber ·
Great stuff Ian. I've been following along with your water jacketing questions and progress of the heads on shoptalkforums (I think that is where I saw most of the questions).....what are your ultimate goals performance wise (whether it be to reach a certain dyno figure, or certain ET/mph in the 1/4 etc)?
Obviously having bought your old 4x8 pwr water to air intercooler....what will you be running with the new twin intercooled setup?
Sounds all very interesting - I look forward to more info and pics/progress.
Alan
reub ·
Awesome to see the latest photos dude.
Will be a wicked ride when finished and I honestly look forward to seeing this post updated (just clicked the subscribe to thread 😁).
Keep up the great work.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Could we possibly see this car make a journey down to Warwick next year???? sounds like a sight to be seen.....
bond ·
i got wood just reading the background info.
speechless ian. cant wait.
nick
2443TT ·
Great stuff Ian. I've been following along with your water jacketing questions and progress of the heads on shoptalkforums (I think that is where I saw most of the questions).....what are your ultimate goals performance wise (whether it be to reach a certain dyno figure, or certain ET/mph in the 1/4 etc)?
Obviously having bought your old 4x8 pwr water to air intercooler....what will you be running with the new twin intercooled setup?
As a street car i'd like to see 0-100 in less than 4 seconds, a 10 second 1/4 mile on the RE55 semi-slicks the car will be running, at least 400 rwhp without NOS.
The Intercooers I have are air-air cores from a porsche 996. The are going to be mounted in the front of the rear guards.
Could we possibly see this car make a journey down to Warwick next year???? sounds like a sight to be seen.....
I definatly want to make it to Warwick one day. I have a deal with Reub in that we both make it there the same year with our cars. I dont know when that will be though.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Nice work, good use of the leftover alloy bits from the spring plate covers. Are you moving the motor forward at all?
I considered a 930 box but after talking to Albins about suitable ratio gears it was more cost effective but not easier to go with a G50 plus you get 5 gears for all the hassles. Albins told me that some, if not all of the ratios are interchangeable with each other, ie move 3rd to 4th etc.
Steve
2443TT ·
Nice work, good use of the leftover alloy bits from the spring plate covers. Are you moving the motor forward at all?
Yeah well seemed to make sense to use them. I priced some cheap engine mounts at repco first and they were too expensive for something that wasnt going to look quite right. I figure I have the alloy tig, so why not make an alloy cross member and use factory porsche body mounts.
Yeah a ratio change is definatly on the cards. at 8000 rpm i'll be able to so 62 mph in 1st gear according to the standard gear ratio calc. It will make launching the car interesting till i change the ratio's.
Cam ·
Wow! Looking awesome, Ian. Can't wait to see more pics as you progress.
2443TT ·
So its update time again. I made a reasonable amount of progress on the weekend. The front cross member design is more or less finished, although I do need to build up a lot more alloy around the mount ends of it. The moment i put it in place it immediatly squared up the gearbox mounting position. There is a 10mm alloy plate bolted to the factory front mounting position. This is the base for the front mount.
And with the cross member roughly supporting it.
Still got a little more alignment to do.
Front crossmember mounts are 1/2 done. I was able to use the pivot box plates as templates which made the job a lot easier. Just spot welded in place for the moment which is enough to support the gearbox barely.
Here's a pic of the inner torsion housing brace cardboard template.
Wheel bearings arrived too. So i've put in the stub axels and drive shafts.
Next on the list is to finsih the front cross member, and then work on welding up the drive flanges from the gearbox with mild steel and re-machining them down to 90mm. Then re-drilling them and cuttig threads for the 944 turbo CV's. I looked into running 930 inner CV's and 944 outers, but that just isnt going to work because the axels would need to be custom. The 944 turbo CV's and axels will support over 500rwhp anyway, and the only reason they break on the 944's is because the diff assmebly gets a habit of moving around in the back of the 944's which changes the CV angles = CV death.
Waiting on brake rotors next, and an alignment tool so I can setup ideal camber on the rear end before welding the pivot boxes into place.
Cheers,
Ian
VWCOOL ·
I'm speechless...!
555bug ·
Ian,
what are you doing for brakes? something interesting I hope.
Stephen
avwboy ·
cant wait to follow the build , will be watching daily for updates as im sure alot of ppl will 🙂
2443TT ·
555bug wrote:Ian,
what are you doing for brakes? something interesting I hope.
Stephen
Front and rear brake rotors should arrive this week. I've gone with Zimmerman 1988 944 turbo ventilated and cross drilled rotors. They are 300x28mm front and rear.
Calipers are 1988 944 turbo 4 piston brembo's.
Cheers,
Ian
kroozzn63 ·
wow thats some sweet hardware u got there cant wait to see its stance
2443TT ·
Well this weekend I finished off the gearbox front crossmember, and i've planned out the front A-Arm front suspension. The steel has been ordered and I'll be starting on the front end next weekend.
Here's a pic of the crossmemebr finished. I still need to make up the inside brackets for the bushing mounts but ill do that mid week.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
Noting like someone who hooks in mate... 👍
Dero ·
is t done yet 🙄
WOW Sweet stuff, love it 🤪
VWFREAK ·
Your crazy Ian, I love it, masssive HP =😊👍
2443TT ·
So here's the latest for my project. I didnt get a great deal acomplished this weekend as I had to work saturday till 2pm or so. On the bright side I live in an industrial area with noisy neigbours on both sides, so they arent game to come over and complain about me angle grinding at 9pm at night 😀.
I finished the gearbox mounts at last. The flywheel end mount was made by cutting up my old rear mount that used a tie down strap around the bell housing, and basically moving everything around to accomodate the gearbox's larger bell housing. The location of the box sits about 1" higher than a vw box which will help with drive shaft angles and give me a little more ground clearance. I decided to use vw rear mounts in the end becuase they are CHEAP! and it just seems logical to try and keep as much vw stuff in there as possible.
More clearancing around the inside of the frame horns to give a nice 1cm at least clearance around the gearbox.
Front geabox mounts were finished bolted up tight and then re-tacked onto the chassis after moving the box around a little.
After much deliberation on how to go about mounting the back end of the gearbox in the end I decided to weld some mounts that I fabriacted from 6mm plate. These were welded to the re-enforcing ribs on the bell housing on the gearbox, and drilled for mounting standard vw rear mounts. The nuts are done up with a spanner from outside the bell housing.
A little more clearancing required when the frame horns get fully welded and all the notches get plated up.
Heaps of room on the other side though.
And from underneath.
And with wheels lowered to about 150mm from ground to the front gearbox cross member.
Im still waiting on rear disc brakes and my camber/caster measurement tools so none of the suspension mounts are welded into place yet. With any luck that will all arrive this week.
Still a fair bit more re-enforcing to do in the rear end yet, and also a decision about what kind of suspension to end up running will have to be made. I can still run torsion springs, or I could switch to adjustable coilovers which gives me a huge range of tunable features. I am leaning toward coilovers.
Thats all for now.
Cheers,
Ian
matberry ·
Awesome mate.
Keep them ponies SCREAMING!!!!!
Matt
1303Steve ·
Hi
That's a different way to mount the trailing arm pivot point. It looks a like lot less work your way. Are you using the stock 944 bushing?
Steve
Cam ·
Unreal! You're doing an awesome job 😎
2443TT ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
That's a different way to mount the trailing arm pivot point. It looks a like lot less work your way. Are you using the stock 944 bushing?
Steve
Yes they are standard 944 pivot bushings. I considered switching to vw poly bushes for about 30 seconds. Then I saw the uniball conversion parts you can get to replace all the porsche ones with... front and rear suspension. They provide much better movement and dont interfere with setting up the base camber settings.
Thanks for the feedback. 😀
Ian
mactaylor ·
should be fun what ratios are in the 930? the one i drove was awesome, waiting, waiting then BOOST then lots of shuffling trying to keep it straight even with 15 X 10s. I dont think it did 62 mph in first though.
dangerous ·
The stock four speed 930 first gear ratio is 2.25 with a 4.222 diff.
2443TT ·
Yes ratios may cause a drivability problem. I am hoping the engine will make 7lb boost before 2000 rpm or so, so it should have a reasonable low end torque. The twin plate should be quite drivable too, unlike the 4 puck was.
Whether I will get away with this and the web 226 camshaft I will have to wait and see. To be competitvie in drag I'd really need to buy a new 1st gear and shuffel the rest along so 1st becomes 2nd etc. Aparently this can be done with the 930 boxes.
1303Steve ·
Hi
If you have any CV trouble with 944 ones, I was able to fit 930 CVs in into the 944 alloy arms OK.
I considered a 930 box, these are the ratios that I found.
1st 16/36
2nd 23/30
3rd 28/25
4th 32/30
CW/P 9/38
These ratios are standard for all 930 gearboxes. The sport CW/P ratio is 8/41.
If you have any CV trouble with 944 ones, I was able to fit 930 CVs in into the 944 alloy arms OK.
Steve
I will be modifying the ouput flanges on the gearbox to suit the 944 CV's instead of going with 930 CV's and modifying the stub axel flange. The 944 turbo cv's and axels are good for 500hp so they will be plenty strong enough.
It would have been nice if the axels used the same splines as the 930 but 944 went another way. I did consider running custom axels with a 944 outer and 930 inner spline too. To make it a 100% bolt together affair.
1303Steve ·
Hi
I have to get custom length axles anyway because of how much I've moved the transmission forward, but I went for the 930 CVs for their ability to run at greater angles. I'm really enjoying reading what your doing.
Steve
kroozzn63 ·
those r some fat wheels
2443TT ·
Yep, 18x10's with 265x18x30 RE55 semi slicks. Fronts are 18x8's.
mactaylor ·
its a nice spread maybe a R&P change would be more advatageous is it the same as the 915 box?
2443TT ·
Another progress update...
I finished welding and machining my 930 drive flanges to take 944 CV's yesterday, so the driveline is more or less sorted out now. All that remains is modifying a toyota starter motor to use a vw pinion gear so I can get the flywheel/starter to work together.
I've also performed a base alignment on the rear end of the car while having not welded the pivot boxes in place yet. I've been doing a lot of research into what toe and camber to run on the rear end of the car. With the toe adjustments at the rear set to the rear of the slotted spring plates I am aiming for 0 toe, and will dial in 2mm total toe after the welding is done. Camber will be set at 1.5 degrees at 0 adjustment. If setup for motorcarna events i should be able to set up to 3.5 degrees in the rear end. I am told that because my tyre are super sticky i'll be needing more camber to really take advantage of that.
Regarding a comment made by Fullnoise in the coil-over thread about wide wheel track and overstear experienced when using 7" tyres, I beleive this was probably caused by two things. Wider tyres and wheel track improves traction and stability while cornering normally. But the sidewall flex in the tyres while cornering will have resulted in the inner surface of the tread area having less pressure applied to the road surface. So to combat this an increase in camber is needed to keep more even road-tred contact accross the surface of the tyre. Wider tyres mean less road-tyre contact pressure as the load is spread accross a larger surface. Even if the sidewall flex is the same with the 6 and 7 inch tyres, the problem will get worse with wider tyres. This also means that there is improvements to be had with the 6" tyres by adding more camber as well.
Last of all, I have the left side lower A-arm suspension supports 1/2 done, though there is still a little more fine tuning to do this weekend and the new coil overs wont arrive till friday week. I will post some more pics on the weekend.
Cheers,
Ian
1303Steve ·
Hi
911s from 1972 to 89 used the same starter. I'm told that the semi auto bug starter is the same one used on 911s.
Steve
2443TT ·
I could use a 911 starter if i was using a porsche 240 flywheel, but im using a 200mm vw flywheel instead. Fortunatly Dave Butler has made a starter motor adapter that allows fitment of a toyota camry 3sge starter motor. I only need to change the pinion and check the alignment.
1303Steve ·
Hi
That will be OK, old Dangerous is handy man to know. What some people do when using a Porsche starter is have a mounting ring made to bolt the Porsche ring gear to their flywheel.
Steve
nbturbo ·
You can buy the 9 tooth by 25mm diameter drive pinions to suit the Toyota starter from The Engine Centre in Melbourne.I just bought some of the mounting flanges to bolt the Denso starter to a VW bellhousing.I got these direct from IMI in the States.
2443TT ·
Hi all,
Well i got nothing done yesterday because I've started on the mamoth task of re-wiring a mates 911 porsche. It was a right hand drive conversion and all the wiring is done 1/2 assed. Every coloured wire had been extended with all black wires so trying to decipher the loom was pointless. Instead ive just cut the whole lot out and will be starting again from scratch.
Though on sunday i got to spend most of the day grinding and welding. Here are a few pics of the latest progress.
930 Standard output flange
The same flange after a lot of tig welding, and then machining it flat on my lathe. I've put a small lip around the outside to center the 944 CV. It made it a very simple task to then drill and tap the new holes. I had a fair amount of trouble machining the welds back though. The tig welded filler metal is extremely hard and was chewing through lathe tool steel till i finally got around to setting up a coolant/cutting fluid feed to the cutting tip.
And here is the completed drive flange installed back in the gearbox. Due to the height of the gearbox and the reduced size of the drive flanges I wont needot clearance the chassis horns at all which is nice and convenient.
Here's and update pic of my irs conversion boxes. I had the positioning of the first version way out from where it should have been. I still havent welded them in place yet because I am still waiting on my suspension alignment tools. Hopefully they will arrive this coming week. I am looking forward to being able to do the finishing so I can put the chassis back on a set of wheels again.
Here is the first of the A-Arm converison that is the start of the mcpherson strut conversion.
The tube that is in the lower torsion bar mounting spot extends into the box section for extra strength, though I havent done the finishing welds yet. The upper torsion tube mounting spot will be the support for the mcpherson strut/coil-over shock.
I hope to get access to the CNC pipe bender this week so I can have all my bends ready for the christmas-new years break.
The remaining engine parts arrive this week as well, so if I cant proceed with the front end, at least I can continue on the engine side of the project again.
Cheers,
Ian
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Man absolutely awesome. I thought your beetle was pretty damm good before but like me I always seem to find ways to make things bigger and better so you strip and then start from scratch. Can't wait to see your car finished!!
westi ·
love your work so far,
you had mention 7lb @2000rpm and potentually a max output 400rwp,i was wondering what turbo's you had in mind.
2443TT ·
The turbos i have are garrett GT2554R's rated at 260hp each. Based on what the GT28R (0.64 turbine) did on my 2332 (full boost by 2200 RPM), the first turbo willl spool to full boost by 2000 ish rpm. I am going to attempt a sequential bi-turbo arrangement that copies whats done on the earlier liberty twin turbo, except that I am using the valve systems from a 2JZGTE supra engine.
The first turbo gets exhaust gas from all exhaust ports and spools to boost. The second turbo has a 2.5" pnumatic solenoid controlled valve over its exhaust turbine and another valve over compressor output. Both turbos also use internal wastegates (14lb actuators).
Spooling works like this. RPM's increase, first turbo spools to full boost. A 35mm wastegate that bypasses the exhaust side butterfly valve opens to control boost pressure while at the same time allowing exhaust gas to pre-spool the second turbine. As RPM's approach 3500-4500RPM or so the pre-spool valve will be virtually wide open, and the wastegate on the primary turbo will also be opening to regulate manifold pressure. At a to be tuned rpm (obviously on the dyno) the compressor side valve will open. There will be a momentary loss in manifold pressure during the change-over but as the second turbo is pre-spooled it should hit a suitable turbine speed very rapidly. From that point to redline they run in parallel. The harder the primary turbo is pushed before the secondary is enabled the less noticable the momentary manifold pressure loss during the transition from single to twin operation will be.
Now this is awefully complex, and I am going to give this a go just for the fun of trying to work out the engineering challange side of it. Worst case i'll switch to plain parallel twin turbo operation and it should hit full boost by 3000-3200 or so. That combined with the torque the 2443 should make will still make it quite drivable.
Suppose the sequential system does work, long term I could look at upgrading to a pair of GT2860R-10 rated at 400hp each. These are the garrett equilivent to a HKS GTRS GTR trimmed turbo. The benefit of that is response without pushing the turbo's well towards the end of their efficency range. Basically more power, less boost... same nice drivable response in theory.
Progress update...
My fancy electronic camber/caster measurement gear arrived today. Its an awesome new toy! Does camber and caster, but the best part is that the gauge detaches from the magnetic holder and alloes you to measure and compare any angle to anything else. Useful as I was able to zero the meter on the torsion tube housing and then set camber in relation to that.
Anyway i've put it to use already and have properly aligned the rear end of the car to 1.5 degrees camber at what will be the final ride height, and welded everything in place at last. Its good to see it all sitting there not held together with cable ties anymore. I also stood and stared at the front end for 2 hours tonight and finalised the upper strut tower mounts. I've come up with something that is way simpler that I had planned, and it will also be increadably strong as well. Im off to buy more steel tomorrow.
Cheers,
Ian
Dasdubber ·
Great work Ian. Sorry if you have mentioned this to me in the past (bad memory!), but how will you be sorting out the engineering side of things with the major suspension changes - I have no idea what sort of testing would required?
It is great people like yourself, westi and dangerous all take the time to share progress on projects like these - everyone seems to have their area of expertise so the knowledge pool is really quite vast. Keep up the great work.
Alan
2443TT ·
I've been told to engineer the front end to be 5 times stronger than it needs to be. An engineer that saw the current progress told me that I am well above the minimum limit so far. Basically the front end needs to be able to support nearly 2 ton in the center of the suspension. It doesnt have to get tested though. Its a calculation based on materials used, thicknesses and weld practices used.
From an engineering/mod plate side of things i have a local guy lined up to approve the front and rear suspension modifications. I just need to finsh the chassis before he dies! His health is not so good. A different local guy can approve the gearbox change. Brakes will be handled as part of the suspension changes. Worst case there is an engineer in townsville that can also approve the front end mods but he is painful to deal with based on my last experiences with getting my previous porsche brakes approved. Way over priced and something like 5-6 visits (billed for) to check things and then disappear while checking some rule books or something.
I suspected that was because he had no prior vw experience and like the guys at department of transport when my car was last over the pits, pulled out a rule book for a 1968 vw beetle and tried to tell me nothing measured up properly. Retards!
I want to keep it as a VW chassis with modifications, not re-engineer the chassis under ICV or hot-rod rulings.
westi ·
thanks for the info.
it's all about the correct flow i quess,is there a few different rear cover's with exactly the same bolt patterns the can be use to help get the combo right.
JVLRacing ·
2443TT wrote:The turbos i have are garrett GT2554R's rated at 260hp each. Based on what the GT28R (0.64 turbine) did on my 2332 (full boost by 2200 RPM), the first turbo willl spool to full boost by 2000 ish rpm. I am going to attempt a sequential bi-turbo arrangement that copies whats done on the earlier liberty twin turbo, except that I am using the valve systems from a 2JZGTE supra engine.
The first turbo gets exhaust gas from all exhaust ports and spools to boost. The second turbo has a 2.5" pnumatic solenoid controlled valve over its exhaust turbine and another valve over compressor output. Both turbos also use internal wastegates (14lb actuators).
Spooling works like this. RPM's increase, first turbo spools to full boost. A 35mm wastegate that bypasses the exhaust side butterfly valve opens to control boost pressure while at the same time allowing exhaust gas to pre-spool the second turbine. As RPM's approach 3500-4500RPM or so the pre-spool valve will be virtually wide open, and the wastegate on the primary turbo will also be opening to regulate manifold pressure. At a to be tuned rpm (obviously on the dyno) the compressor side valve will open. There will be a momentary loss in manifold pressure during the change-over but as the second turbo is pre-spooled it should hit a suitable turbine speed very rapidly. From that point to redline they run in parallel. The harder the primary turbo is pushed before the secondary is enabled the less noticable the momentary manifold pressure loss during the transition from single to twin operation will be.
Now this is awefully complex, and I am going to give this a go just for the fun of trying to work out the engineering challange side of it. Worst case i'll switch to plain parallel twin turbo operation and it should hit full boost by 3000-3200 or so. That combined with the torque the 2443 should make will still make it quite drivable.
Suppose the sequential system does work, long term I could look at upgrading to a pair of GT2860R-10 rated at 400hp each. These are the garrett equilivent to a HKS GTRS GTR trimmed turbo. The benefit of that is response without pushing the turbo's well towards the end of their efficency range. Basically more power, less boost... same nice drivable response in theory.
Progress update...
My fancy electronic camber/caster measurement gear arrived today. Its an awesome new toy! Does camber and caster, but the best part is that the gauge detaches from the magnetic holder and alloes you to measure and compare any angle to anything else. Useful as I was able to zero the meter on the torsion tube housing and then set camber in relation to that.
Anyway i've put it to use already and have properly aligned the rear end of the car to 1.5 degrees camber at what will be the final ride height, and welded everything in place at last. Its good to see it all sitting there not held together with cable ties anymore. I also stood and stared at the front end for 2 hours tonight and finalised the upper strut tower mounts. I've come up with something that is way simpler that I had planned, and it will also be increadably strong as well. Im off to buy more steel tomorrow.
Cheers,
Ian
JVLRacing ·
2443TT wrote:The turbos i have are garrett GT2554R's rated at 260hp each. Based on what the GT28R (0.64 turbine) did on my 2332 (full boost by 2200 RPM), the first turbo willl spool to full boost by 2000 ish rpm. I am going to attempt a sequential bi-turbo arrangement that copies whats done on the earlier liberty twin turbo, except that I am using the valve systems from a 2JZGTE supra engine.
The first turbo gets exhaust gas from all exhaust ports and spools to boost. The second turbo has a 2.5" pnumatic solenoid controlled valve over its exhaust turbine and another valve over compressor output. Both turbos also use internal wastegates (14lb actuators).
Spooling works like this. RPM's increase, first turbo spools to full boost. A 35mm wastegate that bypasses the exhaust side butterfly valve opens to control boost pressure while at the same time allowing exhaust gas to pre-spool the second turbine. As RPM's approach 3500-4500RPM or so the pre-spool valve will be virtually wide open, and the wastegate on the primary turbo will also be opening to regulate manifold pressure. At a to be tuned rpm (obviously on the dyno) the compressor side valve will open. There will be a momentary loss in manifold pressure during the change-over but as the second turbo is pre-spooled it should hit a suitable turbine speed very rapidly. From that point to redline they run in parallel. The harder the primary turbo is pushed before the secondary is enabled the less noticable the momentary manifold pressure loss during the transition from single to twin operation will be.
Now this is awefully complex, and I am going to give this a go just for the fun of trying to work out the engineering challange side of it. Worst case i'll switch to plain parallel twin turbo operation and it should hit full boost by 3000-3200 or so. That combined with the torque the 2443 should make will still make it quite drivable.
Suppose the sequential system does work, long term I could look at upgrading to a pair of GT2860R-10 rated at 400hp each. These are the garrett equilivent to a HKS GTRS GTR trimmed turbo. The benefit of that is response without pushing the turbo's well towards the end of their efficency range. Basically more power, less boost... same nice drivable response in theory.
Progress update...
My fancy electronic camber/caster measurement gear arrived today. Its an awesome new toy! Does camber and caster, but the best part is that the gauge detaches from the magnetic holder and alloes you to measure and compare any angle to anything else. Useful as I was able to zero the meter on the torsion tube housing and then set camber in relation to that.
Anyway i've put it to use already and have properly aligned the rear end of the car to 1.5 degrees camber at what will be the final ride height, and welded everything in place at last. Its good to see it all sitting there not held together with cable ties anymore. I also stood and stared at the front end for 2 hours tonight and finalised the upper strut tower mounts. I've come up with something that is way simpler that I had planned, and it will also be increadably strong as well. Im off to buy more steel tomorrow.
Cheers,
Ian
Ian thats a good investment!
2443TT ·
westi wrote:thanks for the info.
it's all about the correct flow i quess,is there a few different rear cover's with exactly the same bolt patterns the can be use to help get the combo right.
The GT2554R has the same turbine housing and wheel as the GT28R (0.64 from memory) but a smaller compressor wheel, so i'd need to change the compressor wheel and housing if I wanted to upgrade them. Considering how cheap these are and the cost of re-balancing its not worth upgrading them. Turbo's from 220 to 500hp are available with the T25 flange so i have a lot of options should i change things down the track.
westi ·
what i ment was the exhaust housing itself,if you have a few different housing's with different air ratio's you will find it much easier to match the air speed's when it is needed.ie spool it up early or late,it's not just all about the flow of the cartrige that you put in.i would ask your local turbo guy.you might find there is about five that can be used all with slightly different a/r.it might help.
can't wait to see more pic's.
2443TT ·
Update time.... After planning most of the week I finally got up the courage to cut away some of the tunnel up front in preporation for the rack and pinion conversion. All in all it was a lot easier than I was expecting and went well. I've also fitted the right side A-Arm, spindle and at last have 4 wheels on the car.
I'll be using a flip kit to mount the tie rod ends on the tip side of the spindles. On a 944 they are normall on the under-side and the rack is mounted between the rear A-arm mounts. I am pretty happy with the geometry of how its all turned out.
My honda coil-over suspension arrived today! This means that over the next two weeks I will be making a lot of progess. I want to have the chassis close to be self supporting and to be able to roll and steer by then. We'll see how I go i guess. Here are the pics.
matberry ·
Awsome job as always Ian.You certainly put you head down and @ss up. Well done.
Some tabs on the rear of the RHS arm mounts, and make it a bolt in assy.
Cheers
Flintstones ·
Awesome build you got going.
With regards to the position of your rack setup, how do you plan on getting the gear selector rod in and out should you need to renew the bushes?
Cheers
2443TT ·
Im using a completely different style of shifter. The shifter shift rod comes out of the tunnel near the hand brake and connects to the back of the shifting mechanism. Its pure race car stuff, i dont have any pics of that yet.
The steering rack is from a mazda 121. Cost me $115 from the wreckers with two universals. They are over 1000 from mazda spare parts...
Cheers, Ian
1303Steve ·
Hi
Looking good. Do the Honda coil overs bolt up to the 944 stub axles? I've often looked at struts from other cars and thought that they might nearly bolt up to the 2 bolts like on 944 & late L bug stub axles.
Steve
2443TT ·
No they arent a bolt on but the length is good and the rear spring rates are close to what I want when I put the rear springs on the front etc. The mounts are going to be all custom.
MickH ·
Looking GOOD Ian....keep the pictures rolling!!!
2443TT ·
I started on the mcpherson strut towers today and also made up a strut adapter to allow the honda struts to bolt on to the porsche spindles at a lower position. The coil overs are Tein super streets with adjustable dampening. The valving can and will later on be customised to the cars rear engine weight bias. I wll be using adjustable pillow ball top strut mounts on the front but they have not arrived yet. Honda's dont usually have adjustable camber/caster on the front end so the suspension supplier is chasing something that will suit, probably from a S13 or R32 nissan.
To further strengthen the strut towers I think I will end up running some 35x3mm flat bar around outside of the of the tower. The back end of the strut will tie in to the two bolt body mount point and the back of the 65x65 box section A-Arm mounts. I have allowed for about 10mm clearance each side between the towers and the body. The only modification to the body will be a 12mm hole drilled through the bodywork to allow the bolt to go through each side for the strut tower brace. The next step is fabricating some plate sections to tie the top of the strut to side of the strut tower.
Here are the pics.
Cheers,
Ian
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Ian for camber castor you could make the mounts the diameter of Whiteline's camber bolts which have an ecentric built into them which give you about 1.5 deg of adjustment.
these are for a corolla sportivo. i picked these cause I had them in the sportivo I used to own. Popular car which makes them cheap to buy. you could drill the holes in your bottom strut mounts to fit these in if you haven't gone too far into it.
some food for thought...
1303Steve ·
Hi
Your doing a great job, I hope you dont mind my input, but I find the net to be great help at times.
The 944 struts use exactly the same 2 bolt mount spacing as L bugs as do Mk 1 Golfs. On my daily driver L bug I got some Mk 1 Golf camber bolts and simply sloted the strut housing.
This gave me camber adjustment at the strut and also on stock location, the inside bolt of the lower control arms, by giving my car maximum positive camber on the inside and then getting it back to slight negative I was able slightly narrow the track to fit my wheels under OK.
Steve
mactaylor ·
also have a look at drummond motor sports top plates they are very trick just installed some in a mates subaru VERY adjustable!!!!!
11CAB ·
ABS....hmmm....that would be cool to see hooked up and working....😂
2443TT ·
Its going to be easier to keep all the suspension components Tein which is grear becase thats one less thing to have to go re-inventing. The caster tops that I am looking for will be something like these.
I will be slotting the mounting points so I can set a static castor of 5 degrees and make it adjustable to about 8 max. Static camber will be .5 degrees at the limit of the pillow-ball mounts and will increse from there.
I'll be using the ABS sensor as an input to the speedo. A lot more tidy than a cable and some crazy and unreliable autometer cable to electronic speed sensor.
Cheers,
Ian
The Bigfella ·
I'd noted the ABS gear on the hub. Are you going to run the ABS?
2443TT ·
Defiatly not running ABS. Its way too complicated and I'd have to pull the entire system from a porsche 944 to adapt all the electronics and ABS valve hardware. If I end up with an autronic ECU though it is possible to use the speed sensors on the wheels for traction control. Also most ABS systems are a waste of time in my opinion. Its for people that dont know how to drive and panic when they hit the brakes. I've yet to have the ABS kick in on my GTR, and believe me when you stand on the brakes in that the car really pulls up. Brembo monoblocks and Endless pads and rotors help. The brakes on the bug will be 944/brembo 4 piston calipers all round with zimmerman cross drilled rotors and EBC red stuff ceramic pads.
Today saw a fair amount of progress. I finished off the supports for the mcpherson struts and welded them solidly in place while the whole assembly was sitting in the car. Ive allowed for 10mm of clearance to the bodywork from the back of the strut support. As you can see from the first pic there will be enough room for me to run a diagonal from the inside back of the strut to the center of the tunnel to brace them from flexing inwards and later with a strut tower is added, it will stop side to side flexing.
And last of all I started on the mcpherson strut towers. They are made from 5mm flat bar. They still require considerably more trimming to get them right. I thought I had it sorted with cardboard templates, and then started aligning the base settings of 0.5 camber 6 degrees castor... after i'd already cut my material. Not so smart but anyway. On the bright side I need to remove more material and not add it.
Tomorrow I hope to finish the passenger side strut tower and template all the parts for the other side. I dont get a full days work on it tomorrow though as ive got to go to work briefly in the morning and have to start the family christmas thing around 3:30 or so tomorrow afternoon.
Thanks for the feedback too guys.
Cheers,
Ian
66deluxe ·
All i can say is wicked, very nice work ian.
Damo.
2443TT ·
On christmas eve i finished tack welding the passenger side Mcpherson strut tower together with the camber and caster set where I wanted it, so today I set about finishing it and the drivers side as well. The are now fully welded on the outsides and when the chassis is flipped over I will weld the insides of the plated sections as well.
I've welded the round bar that joins the towers to the chasis to the frame head. So all in all i'm happy with todays progress. The front end is now self supporting. All that remains is the cross bracing of the towers, finishing the rear tower mount, drilling mounts for the steering rack, and finishing the front of the A-Arm mounts. That will be tomorrows mission.
Here are the pics.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
Regrettably I didnt weigh the front end before I did this conversion, but as it is at the moment I can still lift the entire front end of the chassis with wheels and brakes attached and it seems lighter than the ball joint front end that I had removed. When I get a corner weight measurement done I will know for sure. Has anyone ever done a corner weight measurement on a stock beetle?
VWCOOL ·
Sensational work, Ian... I've just been out in the carport sticking my head under my Oval... 🤪
2443TT ·
If you are considering doing it, getting a superbug chassis as a starting point is where i'd recommend starting. THats if your not wanting to increase the wheel track width at the same time.
Have a look at what this guy did with his front suspension conversion. http://www.veewrx.com/
In my situation it was actually easier to use a king and link or irs/Bj pan, as the A-arm mounts are completely different to the VW mcpherson strut arms. All the reenforcing in a superbug pan would have been in the wrong place which would have meant unnecessary weight.
2443TT ·
Today I made finished most of the front end off. I still need to do the rear mounts for the strut towers but im saving myself the pain if trying to weld upside down and will do them when I flip the chassis over to do all the under side of all the welding. The steering rack is bolted on now too and i've added a re-enforcing bar to support the drivers side rack mount so that it links it to the frame head.
I also started on chassis re-enforcing. The lower plate extends through to the torsion housing tube either side of the gearbox mount. The upper triangle then ties it into the body mount. One more plate section will go from the torsion housing to the other side of the body mount to fully box in the torsion tube to limit its movement. An idea I kind of stole from Westi's build. I am still undecided what I am going to do with the rest of the pan. I think I will be welding in a few mounting tags and then bolting in alumunium floor sections. This will mean adding a structual support from the front frame head to the rear corners of the pan so that the outer edge of the torsion housing is also re-enforced. Trying to do this without adding a heap of weight will be the goal.
Tomorrow I'll be finishing the re-enforcing and adding a rib over the gearbox to create a new section that the body can bolt on to. I am not sure how much the body will need to be clearanced for the gearbox yet. That will be worked out on the big day when the body meets pan.
Cheers,
Ian
sub60 ·
Hi Ian what a great car! Wondering how you got the correct info as to setup the front suspension re ackerman etc, did you just transfer the porche setup? I ask as with your setup any rear facing a arm could, in principle be used ie subaru. The steering rack used, was is chosen for being the correct width to use with the porche a arms? Again great job and cant wait to hear how it progresses. Mike
2443TT ·
I transferred the porsche setup. I did try calculating everything out using two programs that produce a whole lot of data but in the end it just got too complicated. I then approached the whole setup from a diferent perspective and went researching for info about alignment of 944's and 911's. Both used simular settings regarding camber and castor.
With regards to steering and ackerman angles I didnt look into that other than to note the location of a factory steering rack on a 944 and to try and get a steering box in as simuar location as possible... Which isnt possible. The 944 rack is mounted slightly forward of the spindle ball joints and low at the height of the inner A-arm mount. I wasnt able to get exact measurements. The 944 ball joint goes on the bottom of the spindle. So by using a ball joint flip kit I will achieve nearly straight steering rods from the ends of the rack. It was just luck that the width of the 121 steering rack was also nearly identical to the width between the rear A-arm mounts.
A much easier rack and pinion conversion could be done with a rack from something like a handy van, or any other mini van. Having the rack operate reverse to a normal rack would allow it to be mounted in between the front torsion beams. It makes the whole installation a lot less cramped and also makes the steering a lot easier to hook up. The spindles would also be swapped left to right.
Today didnt see a great deal of progress on the car. I've finished the drivers side plating around the rear torsion housing so its the same as the left, and started on the rear suspension/roll cage support mounts. But then I ran out of steel and welding gas and cant get more till monday or wednesday next week. Bummer, going to have to relax tomorrow.
1303Steve ·
Hi Ian
Will mounting the steering knuckles and A arms back to front as you've done affect anything? I can see why you've done it that way, as the A arms fit much neater that way.
Steve
mactaylor ·
ackerman is not to be ignored it affects turn in and bump steer. ackerman is the line drawn from balljoint axis thru steering arm pivot to rear drive line centre. great gains in handling can be had by making the steering arms adjustable and tuning in to suit your driving style ie are you a late braker and chose a late apex then positive akerman can help with turn in making the inside front have more toe out pulling the front in harder. if you get all of your braking done before turn in then less akerman may suit as getting on the power earlier tends to make the front less nervous tending to more oversteer.
2443TT ·
I didnt mean to say i'd completely ignored ackerman, its just that a lot of measurements on the 944 and the vw are the same. Wheelbase for example is 2400mm on both cars. The track on the 1988 944 turbo is 1735mm and my widened chassis track measures 1730, so the ackerman will be very close to a 944. A standard beetle is 1540mm and I am just under 100mm wider both sides.
That ive put the spindles on the wrong way round is a massive screw up. Thanks for spotting that Steve, I dont know how i missed it. I was looking at pictures of a removed front end that was incomplete and had been removed from the car. I had assumed 944 was simular to 911 which I had also been looking at. On the bright side I get to move the rack and pinion to in between the torsion housings which where I wanted it in the first place. Swapping them shouldnt affect camber and castor. Not having the rack where it currently is will make my water, oil and cooling hoses a lot less cramped too which is a bonus. I have to run 6 pipes from under the tank to the back of the chassis.
2443TT ·
Made a little more progress today. I've got the rear coil over shocks 1/2 finished. Note to self if i ever do this again I must buy a pipe notcher, because notching pipes with with a grinder is a pain in the ass. The gearbox still lifts in easily under the horizontal bar provided I remove the starter motor first.
Tomorrow i'll do the plates that the coil overs bolt onto.
Ive reverse the steering knuckles too and re-measured everything and have ordered a porsche 924 manual steering rack which should arrive in 3-4 weeks.
Merry new year everyone!
Ian.
mactaylor ·
I like the way you have the steering knuckles it lends itself to better geometry and a better centre of gravity. This is a great project would make a great track car. thanks for taking us along for the ride
2443TT ·
Yeah im making an effort to move as much weight forward as possible. Im relocating the battery to the front, the dry sump tank will be up the front too, as will the water-oil heat exchanger and a fuel cell instead of the factory tank. Now there is no tie rods under where the tank is, I will have a lot of room there too which is very helpful.
Today I finished most of the rear coil-over arrangement. I still need to make up the bottom mounts as the bolts for the bottom of the shock are way larger than a normal vw lower shock mount. I think its a 16mm bolt which is great because its way stronger than standard 12mm vw bolt. I am going to make the lower mount adjustable so I can change the height of the rear end by changing the position of the lower mount. The chassis is now entirely self supporting and rolls nicely.
I still have the steering and the rest of the floor pan to finish, seat mounts, fuel, oil and coolant lines to run, so i am thinking its about a month off completion if all goes well. Here are the pics.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
Great work there Ian. Would love to do things a little differently on VWRX seeing and reading some of this....
thats a cool site reubs! very similiar to mine actually.😎
2443TT ·
Yeah I came across the eyeball engineering front end on the germanlook forums. Down side is that the rose/heim joints are not legal for use on australian roads. Not to mention they would last about a week on Cairns roads too. Though it would be a great basis if you were to buy it and modify it using more conventional suspension bushings.
2443TT ·
Let there be steering. Today I finished installing a Porsche 924 steering rack in the front end of my chassis. It turned out very nicely. I still need to lengthen the steering rods a little and have discovered I need new tie rods as well. But who can complain when you pay $50 for it. Freight was $130 from the UK though, but thats way cheaper than $500ish that Australian porsche dismantelers wanted for a rack that needs a rebuild. Aussie porsche parts dealers price things like everything is gold plated.
Next on the list is a diagonal bracing for the strut towers. Here's the pics.
Factory tie rod end location.
Tie rod on top, where it will be after a flip kit is installed in the spindles.
Other news is that I met with an engineer again 2 weeks ago. I will be having the chassis mods inspected in a about a month but I dont foresee any issues in getting it all approved based on what he has told me.
reub ·
Great to see progress dude. You're right about the price of Porsche stuff in Australia too....
hi ian are you goin to have a roll cage incorarated in this car?
2443TT ·
That was part of the plan, but a new QLD transport ruling has been passed that means cars with cages may well be un-registerable. I dont know all the details but I think its something to the effect of unless its a porsche GT3, its not legal.
Anyone else know anything about this?
I'll still be making a cage up, but it will have to be able to be un-bolted so it will probably be just a 1/2 cage. If I were using a body that wasnt already painted it would be nice to be able to weld the cage into the bodywork so its just reenforcing and isnt really just a cage anymore, like they do with circuit racing cars.
mactaylor ·
dunno about qld but cages are still legal in vic aslong as they are engineered to a vic roads memo cant remember the document number thou
2443TT ·
I think its the beginning of QLD transport trying to crack down on modifications for all vehicles. Technically anything that is not OEM equipment is not legal under QLD transport rules. If they are serious about it and enforce it, it could take 90% of the cars off the road. A prime example is having an exhaust system replaced with a non genuine part by any exhaust system repair shop... illegal technically.
There may be a loophole under ICV rules.
westi ·
if you don't put a full cage in the car all your lovely work that you have done will be for nothing,with the power you are sugesting and grip that the suspension and wheel base will produce.it will crack body and pan,it is too much stress for the poor old girl.you need to find away of stoping twist.some bracing from front to back or cage or both.
anyway that's my 2 cents.keep the pic's coming.love you work.
VWFREAK ·
Looking good Ian keep up the great work and keep the posts coming.
2443TT ·
Yeah your right westi. I'll have to have my engineer read up on it. He told me he has the updated documentation but hasnt bothered reading it yet. If ICV is the way around it so I can run a cage I may have to go that way instead, even though its a lot more work. I really dont want to have to put cats on the engine too, or hazzard lights, or side indercators... or any other non-period crap for a 1966.
I didnt get a lot done today. Went on a car cruise instead for lunch and then spent the afternoon working on the car. I've started on the passenger side floor pan changes, and also added some diagonals to the front strut towers. There will still be a strut brace to tie the top of the strut towers together that will be going through the body, but the small diagonals should be enough.
Here's a pic.
mactaylor ·
I know your shell is already painted but you could run a cage so its cut into the body and under the headlining it would be a lot of work but well worth it. A pillars would be the tricky ones.
2443TT ·
The problem with that approach is that while the cage is made part of the body and it does make the pan more rigid, any flexing that does occur is also flexing the entire shell. Having a cage plated to the body is great in race cars but I think the car wouldnt look pretty for very long.
I am hoping the ICV route is the way to go, as you can still build a beach bugy with a roll cage under ICV rules. With ny luck my engineer will look at the previous modifications and just issue an ICV plate/paperwork for me. Im going to see him again today.
The other possability is I could just bullshit any cops that pull me over and question the roll cage. When I show them 3 mod plates with 9 codes in the luggage compartment they will probably just scratch their heads and go ummmm... ok.
Flintstones ·
it's not just the cops you should be worried about, but any insurance mob that comes out to investigate your car should it be involved in an accident (knock on wood that your not in any accident) as they will deem your car not legal and then possibly leave you in a big mess to sort though on your own.......push your engineer to find a way to get it legal. Keep up the great work👍👍
Brad ·
2443TT wrote:I think its the beginning of QLD transport trying to crack down on modifications for all vehicles. Technically anything that is not OEM equipment is not legal under QLD transport rules. If they are serious about it and enforce it, it could take 90% of the cars off the road. A prime example is having an exhaust system replaced with a non genuine part by any exhaust system repair shop... illegal technically.
There may be a loophole under ICV rules.
Great build good to see the progress.
On this info your engineer is giving you ... .. well lets just say I wouldn't beleive what you are hearing unless it is in writting. I am building an ICV and compliancing a few LH5 / 6 with exemptions and they all have roll cages and it is not an issue in QLD. I am unsure what he thinks he has read but it isn't current or future plan in QLD.
QLD are changing to DOTARS which also allows cages.
To make your car an ICV would kill it, to start with your engine would have issues as would your body work etc. Just stick to your stock 66 beetle with mods and you will be fine.
Engineers are interesting critters......
1303Steve ·
Hi
The advice I got from my NSW engineer is a 1/2 cage is OK, but the car would have to registered as a two seater, so no back seat passengers. There is a set of conditions for rear occupant head clearance and a Beetle shell can't comply.
Steve
2443TT ·
Yeah they sure are interesting. Everyone has their own ajenda.
I think part of it is that this guy is used to working on V8's, holden and fords. Or maybe he is tring to get me worried that it shouldnt be that "easy" to get the car passed. I spoke with him again yesterday and he has changed his mind that he can now approve a cage, but he did say that if the rules changed a potential ban on cages could be back dated to make all current roll cages illegal. That would piss off a lot of people, especially in SA and WA where the rules for mods are more relaxed than they are in QLD.
I'll just accept it and move on and try and have the chassis ready for approval inside a month.
Steve, i've heard that same thing about no back seat as well. Im ok with that as i was not going to have a back seat anyway.
Brad ·
2443TT wrote:Yeah they sure are interesting. Everyone has their own ajenda.
I think part of it is that this guy is used to working on V8's, holden and fords. Or maybe he is tring to get me worried that it shouldnt be that "easy" to get the car passed. I spoke with him again yesterday and he has changed his mind that he can now approve a cage, but he did say that if the rules changed a potential ban on cages could be back dated to make all current roll cages illegal. That would piss off a lot of people, especially in SA and WA where the rules for mods are more relaxed than they are in QLD.
I'll just accept it and move on and try and have the chassis ready for approval inside a month.
Steve, i've heard that same thing about no back seat as well. Im ok with that as i was not going to have a back seat anyway.
Mm ok retrospectively applying legislation is a can of worms in its own. In short it is not allowed under the Federal Legislation. Based on that I would have to once again suggest that your engineer is incorrect and needs to check his sources.
Although a little off subject it pisses me right off when engineers make unsubstantiated motherhood statements in an attempt to make customers think they are doing them a favor when in fact they are only doing the job they are being paid to do. Most seem to do it to get away with charging more $$$$
Anyway look fwd to seeing this baby roll and bump..
2443TT ·
Most seem to do it to get away with charging more $$$$
You go that right! When I had my mod plate for my brakes, seats and seatbelts fitted the engineer was going to charge me for having meetings with a local vw mechanic to discuss factory positions of seat belt mounts, and what really were the stock wheel track measurements for a 1966 beetle. He had out of date data... and this is my problem ? Actually yes it was... 🙁
After about 4 seperate inspections i said, look if you dont approve the brakes today im taking them off the car and going back to drums. And then you wont get paid at all. He approved them about 5 minutes later... Thankfully that engineer is not around anmore and there are better local guys to deal with.
1303Steve ·
Hi
When I told my local engineer what I wanted to do he couldn't get of the phone fast enough, the same guy now writes a column in ZOOM magazine, read his answers and you can see where he's coming from. The guy I'm using now has already done some WRX powered bugs already.
You must choose your engineer wisely otherwise it will cost $$$s
Steve
mactaylor ·
there are allways ways and means around any problem just keep knocking on the right doors and dont bother with the mormans!
2443TT ·
Agreed. My second blue plate came a lot easier when I got the turbo modification approved. They went over it all with the car on the hoist and presumed that since I was able to drive the car there that it worked well enough to approve. At the time it still hadnt been tuned though. They even let the vent to atmosphere Bov and Wastegate through no problems! $120 in and out and no problems at all.
I really hope the mod plate for my suspension, gearbox, seating, and cage come just as easily this time. I think it will as i've seen some of the abominations this guy has approved in the past. Wastegates next to brake fluid resivours etc...
Flintstones ·
1303Steve wrote:When I told my local engineer what I wanted to do he couldn't get of the phone fast enough
Hi Steve,
You have to understand that when you talk to an engineer over the phone he doesn't know who you are, for all he know's you could be the RTA doing a "random" check to ensure he's complying with the rules.
Best thing to do is speak to them in person to discuss what you want to do and you'll find that they are generally more receptive to your ideas.
Cheers
1303Steve ·
Hi
He knew who I was, he was familiar with my yellow bug and we have a mutual friend. Anyway fitting a WRX motor to VW is a straight forward swap, not the sort of thing the RTA would use to trap him, this was before the G50.
Steve
2443TT ·
At last the steel I have had on order for 5 weeks has finally arrived and I've been able to get some work done on my own car again. Although I didnt get much done as I also ended up changing some suspension settings on the back of my GTR today too.
So today's VW project was to start with the floor pan replacement and strengthening. The idea i had was to replace the outer edge of the factory pan with a 20x20x3 angle welded to 40x3 flat bar, and have it in such a way that it still bolts to the pan in the factory locations. As the steel is thicker and it ties to the front suspension, when bolted to the body it will be far more rigid.
The outer edge of the torsion housing has yet to be welded to the under side of the pan but when thats done the horizontal rigidity of the chassis should be considerably stronger. There is still seat mounting points to be welded in. Floor pan sections will be 1mm sheet aluminium and will be screwed and glued into place after the pan is painted.
The old pan section is still there to allow me to easily drill the holes for where it bolts onto the body in the correct places but will be being cut once thats done. Here are the pics.
Cheers,
Ian
Flintstones ·
Looking good there Ian.
I used 40 x 40 RHS on mine and it definitely stiffen the chassis up. A box frame of any sort is something that should be done for a high horsepower bug.
Have you got the overhang going towards the outside of the RHS or inside? can't make it out from the pics.
I'm guessing the overhang is for the bolts to go through onto the body.
Cheers
D
2443TT ·
The outer edge is 40mm, drops down 20, and then inwards 20 if that makes sense. Its 40mm flat bar welded to 20mm angle. The outer edge when drilled and bolted to the body will be rigid enough for what im doing once a cage is added as well. I though about box section for a moment, but I think it will add too much weight. I know the car will be heavier that stock, but I dont want to make it too fat.
100mm at the back end where it runs parallel to the torsion housing is 5mm plate, and also at the front, there is a section that joins the rear side of the mcpherson strut tower to the floor pan now, which is also 5mm plate.
2443TT ·
Latest news...
Well both floor pan sections are finished except for seat mounts. I still have to drill the drivers side but the passenger side has been marked, measured and drilled with a small 4mm hole for starters.
This weekend I stripped off all the suspension and tipped the pan on its side so I can more easily finish the pan off. Here are a couple more pics of the pan outer edge.
And the under side just in front of the torsion housing the under side has been braced with 20x20x3 angle for 350mm. Where the torsion housing supports the pan will be re-enforced later on when i decide exactly what I am going to do there.
Here is where the mcpherson strut rear support joins onto the pan. That plate section there is 6mm plate where it joins onto the pan.
And from another angle. I am contemplating whether to weld the end of that 65x65x6mm blue suspension supports, or if i should just get the finishing welds done and drill the bottom of it along with a 35-40mm hole saw to remove a little weight and allow water drainage. I'll work that out later.
Ive started tidying up all the butchering that had to be done to get the 930 box to fit. In front of the torsion housing i'd cut 2.5mm plate to fit the gap, hammered hell out of it to create a pleasable shape and then welded it all into place. The area around the torsion housing has been built up considerably. At its thickest its got to be nearly 8mm.
This combined with the how around the torsion housing has been boxed into the front gearbox mounts and floor pan, plus a roll cage should make the rear end plenty rigid enough.
I'd hope the chassis can be at the sand blasters inside 2 weeks but realisticly with work commitments it will probably be 5. But its been good to be able to work on it all weekend for a change.
just saw this if you are still looking for options on the case..... I remember you said you were looking for a case. I think this might be bigger than the bore size though
2443TT ·
That case used to me domonic's from CB performance. I did consider it a while back but the 4" mains put be off due to this being a street engine and issues that can arrise from flanged cranks and T4 mains. Its also setup for autocraft heads, and i have to draw the line somewhere when it comes to keeping things moderately sane.
It would be a good argument, but I think the T5 case is probably a stronger case once modified than the Scat case. My Rocky Jennings T5 case should be here in another month or so.
2443TT ·
Well today I managed to finish work at mid-day, so i spent the afternoon burning metal getting the last of what i can do done. Because this weekend I have a professional welder coming by to do all the finishing welds (and tidy up my messy work).
So today's progress saw then other side of the torsion housing re-enforced and completion of the trailing arm pivot point on the chassis.
So here are the latest pics.
I need to buy a small drill attached flapper wheel to tidy up in there properly. I used a hand file for a while but tired of that quickly
Next on the list is seat mounts, then finishing welds, and finally sway bar mounts. Then the whole lot needs to be assembled one more time for the engineer to inspect as a rolling chassis. That will hopefully be done inside the next 2 weeks.
Cheers,
Ian.
The Bigfella ·
I've got one of those drill flapper wheels (which I must admit, I tend to use in the die grinder) - but what I normally use is the flap wheels for a 115mm angle grinder (or is it 125mm?).
reub ·
Looks tidy dude.... can imagine it blasted and in 2pak paint as well....
2443TT ·
Hi everyone,
Well the finishing welds were delayed till tomorrow as the guy doing the work for me has had to do some emergency home repairs on account of a land slide that happened thrusday night. We had 8 inches of rain in one evening... no water restrictions up here.
So today i finished seat mounts instead and tidied up the workshop a little.
Here are some pics...
It looks close, but there is actually about 20cm of clearence from the trans to the chassis.
Not long till the body is uncovered and fitted to the new chassis. 4-6 weeks with any luck. I still have water, oil, fuel and brake lines to do, and sway bar mounts.
Cheers,
Ian
humpty ·
Damn Ian.... Reub has been keeping me up to date on your shenanigans... But this is utter madness!!!😂 Top work mate.... You leave my dismal efforts for dead!!! Best of luck with the inspection....
ricola ·
Great work Ian, this and Project GTO are pursuading me to go all out with my 1303 cab's chassis with G50 and EJ20t...
Rich
2443TT ·
Hi everyone,
Well all the finishing structual welding has been completed today. I have to finish one seat mount and the sway bar mounts and then re-assemble it all for inspection. Here are the pics...
humpty ·
Curious to know what all this work will weight when its all done?
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
ricola wrote:Great work Ian, this and Project GTO are pursuading me to go all out with my 1303 cab's chassis with G50 and EJ20t...
Rich
Mate you'd be crucified for doing that to an original cab over here.....
cut up a shitter and do it but not something worth keeping stock.
dangerous ·
Its only metal.
Bring it on.
When will some one do that with a Heb?
Three-rotor up front would be cool.
Actually just kidding.
It has to be air cooled, but must be fast.
humpty ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:
ricola wrote:Great work Ian, this and Project GTO are pursuading me to go all out with my 1303 cab's chassis with G50 and EJ20t...
Rich
Mate you'd be crucified for doing that to an original cab over here.....
cut up a shitter and do it but not something worth keeping stock.
Nothing is "worth keeping stock".... Its only a freakin' car!.... Have a look at what my bro has done to to his BD 23.... Its bloody awesome!.... Make it the car YOU want dude... Just do it right and do it safe...
2443TT ·
Safety and handling performanceis a big part of why i am doing this build up. The other reason is strength of the components. I arent going to be breaking any of this any time soon with a 2443cc twin turbo'd engine. The only risk area is the CV's, which have been proven on 944's that drag race to handle over 500rwhp. In a car that weights 300-400kg less they will survive.
The previous version of the car which was lighter than a stock beetle with just stock lowered suspension and koni shocks was scary as hell at 160k. When the 2332 turbo engine was at full noise it made the steering awefully light in the front end in every gear. Being able to tune the suspension for how the car is being driven is going to make a huge diference. As will movement of as much weight as possible to the front end of the car (battery, fuel cell, dry sump tank, radiators etc).
I decided to stop work after lunch today and get stuck into the re-assembly. The chassis is rolling again and looking like a go-cart from hell. Tomorrow I have to make a list of whats needed to finish the chassis and do an alighment on it prior to having it inspected which should be this week, at least for a preliminary inspection.
Also, Steve C you were right about the thread in the rear 944 trailing arms being a 1.25 pitch. The data on the Pelican Parts website is incorrect. I am going to be using extra long wheel studs to help attach the rear coil overs to the trailing arms. I figure I cam hammer them into an appropriately sized nut with the center machined out a little and i'll have an instant bolt that will be the correct thread for the job. None of the fastener shops up here carry metric fine threads in the size i need...
Cheers,
Ian
Flintstones ·
looking great Ian !!
Cheers
D
humpty ·
Top stuff Ian.... Its totally mad.... And if you need some bolts I might be able to source them for you here.... I have a metric bolt shop that have all sorts of strange stuff.... I sourced some M14 Left Hand Thread nuts the other week for a Silvia project a mate is working on... You wouldn't believe what these guys have!
VWCOOL ·
yeah awesome work!
Dasdubber ·
Nice work Ian - all the best for the inspection.
volkdent ·
Looking great!!! Can't wait to hear about the test drive!
Jason
2443TT ·
Hi everyone,
Well the engineering is postponed till next week. I forgot the guy doing my engineering is watching the F1 in melbourne. So this weekend I am just going to tidy up a few area's and finish the alighments etc.
I didnt get a lot acomplished today as i went to the Cairns porsche club monthly meeting. Its the only german car club up here so i figured its worth a look. Becuase we had over 100mm of rain last night and it hasnt stopped raining for 4 days only two porsches showed up. Everyone else was in their daily instead. One of the two porsches was a graphite coloured Porsche 997 turbo though, so there was some candy to see.
When i got home after lunch I finished the slotting and base alignment of the front left side suspension. I've set it to 0.5 degrees camber, 7 degrees castor and the slottling allows for 0.5-1.5 degrees camber and 4.3 to 8 degrees castor. I am told the semi slicks respond well with a fair amount of camber but i have no idea what to set it to yet, so i've gone with settings that would be used on the typical light track duty 911. I have to make up a top plate to allow the castor to be locked while adjusting camber, which will also support the load carried by the shock over a wider area inside the strut tower.
And here's a picture...
I started on the left side but then visitors showed up and much bullshit was talked about instead. Should have the left done tomorrow.
Cheers,
Ian
volkdent ·
You might want to make it able to handle camber up to -4 degrees, with a strut setup you'll probably want more camber for track stuff.
Jason
hellbugged ·
volkdent wrote:You might want to make it able to handle camber up to -4 degrees, with a strut setup you'll probably want more camber for track stuff.
Jason
....i'll see you and raise you to 6 degrees negative camber
this build is just crazy🤪........i luv it!
2443TT ·
The camber setting is a minimum setting.
There is a place for an adjustment bolt in between the two strut to spindle mount bolts. By adjusting that i could change the roll center position which will vary static camber, and camber through the range of suspension travel. I dont think i'll be doing that any time soon, too complicated.
You might want to make it able to handle camber up to -4 degrees, with a strut setup you'll probably want more camber for track stuff.
Yes your right. For the moment i am just setting up for the street and making things adjustable. I have been amazed with how straight everything is after all the welding was done.
I finished the other side yesterday and started looking at the gear linkage side of things. Off to buy a little more steel so I can finish the seat mounts and start on brake lines etc.
humpty ·
Thats bloody awesome stuff Ian.... Inspirational!
Baja Wes ·
Looks great. Stock is boring. Go nuts 🙂
And a comment on the approval engineers, just remember most of them aren't actually engineers. And you get idiots in any profession. 😂
2443TT ·
Woo Hoo! 😂
Passed engineering inspection today for the suspension, steering and gearbox modifications. I've been give the go ahead to have the chassis painted and all that remains is for the engineer to check out the steering shaft attachment once the body is on the pan.
I've been working on the gear shift and re-located the hand brake leaver further backwards on the weekend. I've also started on seat mounts, pedals etc.
All i need to do now is finalise the hydraulic clutch master cylinder mounting and im ready to have the chassis blasted and painted. Here's a pic.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
HUGE congrats dude.... great news...
dangerous ·
What was the end result with reverse Ian?
Where is it in the gate? Up forward on the LHS?
Cool shifter set-up!
Cam ·
Congrats on the pass!!!
Can't wait to see the progress yet to come 👍
gaz58t2 ·
Reub told me about this....looks good
debiasi4 ·
looking good, what shifter is that im just putting a 915 in my car and want it to be close to the steering wheel- that looks great (but expensive)
thanks adam deb
2443TT ·
Hi Adam,
The shifter is a Hargett Precision shifter. The quality is very nice, they are all CNC machined. The price has come down since i bought mine and the aussie $ is better now too ... bugger
Not much progress made today but I did manage to complete installation of my hydraulic master cylinder. Its a 3/4 master cylinder and has 36mm throw, s thats a lot of fluid. Im told it can be sleaved down to nearly any size, so just need to plum it up and work out whats needed.
Getting any data on the Saab slave cylinder/throw out bearing that the 930 box is using isnt easy. So I figured i'd just try something and see how it works out.
Next is the front to rear brake line and clutch line, plus fuel lines.
humpty ·
Brilliant solution there Ian.... What are you planing to do about the reservoir for the clutch cylinder?.... Going remount or doing something special with your fuel tank?.... That price for the shifter is mind blowingly cheap for what you get!!! Awesome find that....
2443TT ·
The clutch master cylinder has its own resivour built in. It doesnt have a clear part to view the fluid level is all. As for the fuel tank I'll be using the standard one most likely. My tank is already welded and modified with 3/4" fuel supply and return fittings in it. I will be considering a fuel cell as well though, with about 1/2 the capacity of the standard tank.
humpty ·
But surely the reservoir will be a hassle to get to with the OG tank in place? Or will you mount the tank on a hinge of some sort?
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Just thinking the same thing myself....
2443TT ·
As the steering linkages are in front of the spindles and not behind them it should be possible to easily fill up the resivours pretty easily from inside the wheel arch if the car is jacked up or put on ramps. Either way its not as though it will be consuming volumes of brake fluid. I doubt it will ever need a top up inside one year.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Looking good. You could always put a fitting on the top clutch master and fit a remote reservoir. A lot of other cars run a tube straight off brake fluid reservoir to feed the clutch master, but its outlet is a little higher than the reservoir base, that way you run out of clutch fluid before you run out of brakes, its to protect those that never open their bonnet to check things.
Steve
2443TT ·
I dont see it as a huge issue. If I use a fuel cell i'll have a gap down the side of the tank that will allow me to reach in there with a 1/2 lt bottle of fluid to top it up. I dont like remote resivours as you inevitably end up with a fluid leak at some stage, and resulting paint damage. Id rather be inconvenienced that have paint damage. Using a fuel cell allows me to have a more up-right tank, which will allow me to consider moving the dry sump tank to the front of the car as well for better weight distribution and safety.
I picked up the last of the brake lines this afternoon and also some 3/8th steel tube to use as fuel lines. I've still got to finalise how the hydraulic clutch line is going to go as part of it has a rubber flex hose that joins from the box to the chassis.
I dropped some templates for my anti-roll bars off to the suspension shop today so they can be sent away to have whiteline make me some custom ones. There is going to be a 3 week wait on these at least so I am told... which is a bugger, because I cant weld on the mounts for the bars to the chassis till i get them back. That means no disassembly, no sand blasting... etc.
Still waiting on a seat rail kit too, so progress has stalled till parts start to arrive again.
kroozzn63 ·
man that is so cool , you must have time on your hands good luck to you ,cant wait to see its shell on ist it gunna be a sleeper or a show pony?
humpty ·
Whats so special about the brackets that you need to send them to Whiteline to make?.... I have had loads of things laser or water jet cut locally and its a very quick turn around....
VWFREAK ·
The madness continues. When will you learn Ian and stop doing things by halves. lol
Great stuff, your a man possessed.
2443TT ·
kroozzn63 wrote:man that is so cool , you must have time on your hands good luck to you ,cant wait to see its shell on ist it gunna be a sleeper or a show pony?
No show pony. I'll be racing the car at 1/4 and 1/8th mile events as well as motorkarna. This build is about taking it as far as I can, and then driving it on the street.
Actually I rarely have any time on my hands. Self employed, on call, and I frequently work stupidly long hours and all weekend. I work on the car when I can though and when am still awake enough to not accidently amputate fingers. Ive had quite a couple of good injuries while working on this project though... Its been fun.
humpty wrote:Whats so special about the brackets that you need to send them to Whiteline to make?.... I have had loads of things laser or water jet cut locally and its a very quick turn around....
The brackets arent special at all and are all of a 1/2 hrs work. The delay is getting the swabars made. Ive cut up some old sway bars and welded them back together so they fit the porsche suspension and clear the gearbox etc. Then they get sent away to whiteline to be used as templates to be re-made from a single piece of spring steel. I cant finish the final mounts that weld to the rear torsion housing, and to the fron A-arm supports till i have the finished bars back here to mount on the car.
So I got stuck into the car again this afternoon.
Brake lines done - check
3/8th supply and return fuel lines done - check
Gearbox reverse selection problem fixed - check
(it was something to do with the detent spring that locks out reverse. Once i took it apart and put it back together it started working again... go figure?)
Im finishing the hydraulic clutch lines tomorrow. I'll post more pics then.
Cheers,
Ian
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
3 weeks wait for custom stuff from witeline isn't that bad. I have waited 5 weeks for strut braces for current model corolla's and about the same time for sway bars as well. they don't keep much stock on the shelf. they make it as the order comes in.
Great work Ian. I always appreciate someone who is doing something different from the norm. We found this doing my brother's Type 3 as there isn't anyone out there putting a 2332 EFI turbo in a type 3 so a lot of stuff is custom made by us or made by fabricators we know. Not to mention the trial and error factor!!! something we have done have been remade a few times cause we weren't happy with the first and even 2nd outcomes of things like brackets and mounts etc.
This will be a very nice car when it's finished with power to boot!!!!
2443TT ·
I think Alex Holtz told me about that type 3 with the 2332 turbo a few years ago, is that the same one?
So today I finished the seat mounts and bolted the eats in place. All in all im pretty happy with how the car is looking now.
I also put the gearbox and shifter back in to make sure I could get reverse gear since having investigated why i couldnt select reverse last time. I dont know why i didnt think of it before, but i think 1/2 the problem is the reduce ratio of the shifter I am using. Less throw means more force at the gear stick is needed to select reverse gear, as the spring tension on the reverse lock out is amplified by the reduces ratio of the short shifter. I think i'll be shortening the reverse lock-out spring in the gearbox a little to make it easier to select reverse.
Anyway, here's the pics. Latest updates really are only the seats, brake lines etc. But its nice to see it all together again. Im going to finish the rear lower shock mounts tomorrow and then all that really remains is the hydraulic clutch lines and the anti sway bar mounts.
Cheers,
Ian
pete wood ·
if I didn't know better, I'd swear someone snuck up and hit you with a bat that had the letters "german-look" engraved on it. 😂
BTW, love the strut front, something I dreamt of at one time. 👍
2443TT ·
Yeah had the bright red cal-look bug with the 15" fuch's for a few years. Then the sillver body, but the tyres were really never wide enouugh to call it a real german looker, and the king+link + swing axel just cant cut it for a real GL car.
dangerous ·
Awesome work Ian!
Back onto the engine soon I gather?
Flintstones ·
That should be a fun car to drive!!👍👍
Looks so purposeful.
Cheers
mactaylor ·
looks great ian keep up the good work! are you going to trim the rear top shok mounts down or leave them for bump stops?
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Hey Ian yep same car. Been a long and expensive trip to get it to be driveable as you would know. Did have the engine together but influenced by others breakages and new products onto the market and all of a sudden we're back at square one. total rebuild and design but getting close. Cranked it over yesterday to check oil system and pressurize fuel system with new pumps etc. Found a couple of small leaks but apart from that all good.
So next step off to the dyno for the install of ECU and get it running!!
Progress is looking good on your front. Almost ready for the engine to take it's place!!
2443TT ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:Progress is looking good on your front. Almost ready for the engine to take it's place!!
dangerous wrote:Awesome work Ian!
Back onto the engine soon I gather?
Yes true the engine wont be far away. Im still waiiting on the Rocky Jennings WBX case, though he has sent me some progress pics for it. Im hoping for an update again from him soon. I believe he is custom making the bearings at the moment to allow the T4 center main T1 flanged crank to fit the WBX case.
For the moment i am having to just imagine what it will be like sitting in the drivers seat with 2.5 lt of heavily cam'd turbo'd fury waiting to shred tyres.
Cheers,
Ian
trickysimon ·
Surely there has been an update in the last month 😂
Come on where are the pics lol
Simon
2443TT ·
Sadly not much im afraid... I did call Fulcrum yesterday and was told that they sometimes take 4 weeks to manufacture custom sway bars (its been 4 weeks now...), and that they will be here when they are here.... in otherwords we are too busy to go chasing part for you at the moment.
On another note i do have some engine pics to share though. These are the first of many to come when the parts arrive from the US. This is the machining of my Rocky Jennings Oxyboxer case. The case is a 2.1 waterboxer converted to air cooled, sleaved lifter bores, and re-located cylinder head stud mount points. Rocky is modifying the case so it will support the flanged 88mm crankshaft, and has made a custom set of bearing to suit. All the main studs are being replaced with raceware studs for extra strength. I will reveal more about the engine build when it starts in about another month or so, safe to say all the parts are 100% VW porn.
The pics...
Engine case should arrive in 2-3 weeks.
66deluxe ·
Very nice, this engine is going to be mad, always been a fan of the oxy boxer, the best of both type 1 and type 4. Big fan of Rocky Jennings work too.
JVLRacing ·
just little of topic! wat happen with the motor you done subie heads on vw block?JVL
2443TT ·
Its in storage. Im finishing my own car first before i get stuck back into working on Warren's engine. It will happen next year probably.
JVLRacing ·
ok! thanks....it got potential!😎
2443TT ·
Well the sway bars still havent arrived yet. I suspect they must be still designing the machine thats going to bend them for me... so ive given up waiting and moved on.
Today the body met the new chassis for the first time. The fit was reasonable... but there is going to be a fair amount of modifications to the rear parcel shelf area to accomodate the 930 gearboxs fat nose cone and gear set. As you can see it will definatly be needing some custom guards.
More to come... Tomorrow im going to get a full days work in on it for a change.
Cheers,
Ian
bond ·
coming along ian! an extre 3" on each gaurd is going to look phat as!
nick
humpty ·
Eeeekkkk!
1303Steve ·
Hi
Looking good. How did the front suspension improvements fit around the stock body? What ET are your wheels?
Steve
2443TT ·
Ill take a better pic of the body clearance to the suspension today. There is about 8mm clearence each side, so i guess i measured it just right. Wheelbase is 2400mm and wheel track is 1735mm, the same as a 1988 1944 porsche. I cant remember the wheel offsets off hand... they are 996 twin turbo rims if that helps.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
They gonna be some very phat guards there Ian!!
VWCOOL ·
lol.. I reckon you should slice the body down the centre...!
Cam ·
Looking wicked, dude! Makes a nice change from a narrowed front end on a 6 volt-er 😀
trickysimon ·
Tomorrow im going to get a full days work in on it for a change.
Any interesting pics? 😵
Simon
westi ·
yeh i agree,cut her down the middle.
i love to cut.i 'll give ya hand .cut cut cut.
lol
keep up the good work.
2443TT ·
Sorry nothing new to report... Hardly got any work done on sunday despite my plans to spend the whole day on the car. Good news is that im taking 1/2 of tomorrow off so i can finish the trial fit.
At the moment its still sitting about 4cm high in the back as the later model style rear chassis-body mounts sit higher than the earlier model chassis's. The rear shock mount cross bar is fouling on the parcel shelf a little too which is no big deal.
westi wrote:yeh i agree,cut her down the middle.
i love to cut.i 'll give ya hand .cut cut cut.
lol
keep up the good work.
Hmmm... I think that between what ive done with this car now, and what youve done to yours Westi, I am sure there isnt a purist on the forum that we havent pissed off!
I think i prefer the wide fender look though... This is how wide it should look when done. 4" widened all round.
Cheers,
Ian
westi ·
nice one.
if you think we have pissed off a few purists.what till i star my 21 window.you will hear shreeck's of discust the whole world over.i can wait.
trickysimon ·
What would a purist be doing on the drag racing forum? 😂
Simon
555bug ·
i have some picture somewhere of a car thats had about 20cm added through the middle. Massive job stay clear 🙂
westi ·
seeing what horrible people are up to with there evil ways.
maybe praying for us to be saved.
i got no idea.
dangerous ·
555bug wrote:a car thats had about 20cm added through the middle. 🙂
That is what the genius' did at VW with the super bug...well, at the front.
2443TT ·
Well with westi's words ringing in my ears... or perhaps that just the side effect of all the grinding ive been doing... I started to chop away at parts of the body to make everything fit nice and snug.
Im pretty happy with how everything lined up too. It looks like only the left side of the floor pan up the front got a little heat distorted from the welding. The gap torwards the front is only a few mm so it will probably tighten up once ther eis a rubber seal in there.
Ive also begun mocking up a new stronger section to join the left and right side of the body again over the gearbox nose cone. It will be entirely metal for strength. The bolt in panels will alloy plate.
Pics...
A little raised gearbox clearencing.
Looks like I got the placement of the steering just right. Linking the steering with a pair of universals is going to be very easy from the looks of it.
Thats all for now... should have another update tomorrow hopefully.
Cheers,
Ian
JVLRacing ·
scary man you are!looks good Ian
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Loving it mate. Work of art!!
Mick058 ·
You and Westi are blowing me away. Looks the goods.
dangerous ·
Hi Ian, nice progress.
I had forgotten how big that tranny was, man it is a monster.
When you go for "a pair of universals",
you will need a small bearing at the lower end of the column tube.
ricola ·
dangerous wrote:When you go for "a pair of universals",
you will need a small bearing at the lower end of the column tube.
Or maybe use a column from a super?
2443TT ·
Thats all easy stuff! I'll just buy a small bearing and machine up some sort of sleve to hold it snug at the end of the steering column. Whats proving to be a pain in the ass though is getting a universal with the correct size spline for the 924 steering rack.
Well today i made a little more progress. I now have a frame work of sorts 3/4 welded into place for the firewall and reenforcing the body to make up for all the metal I cut out of it yesterday. Ive used 20x20x3 angle and 13x3 flat bar to make up the framework. I'll be spot welding 1mm steel plate to the framework to seal it all in.
I am considering running some steel wiring tubes to the engine bay as well. The plan is to make the car easy to work on, so easy accesibility to all mechanical parts and wiring access is essental. Any improvement I can make will be a welcome one.
It took 3 hrs to remove the induction system from the previous engine setup to allow spark plug access. I want to be able to get access to any part on the engine or anywhere else on the driveline in just a few minutes with this version of the car.
Last of all... no pics today. I'll be sure to take some tomorrow when the framework is finished.
Cheers,
Ian
Dasdubber ·
2443TT wrote:I'll be spot welding 1mm steel plate to the framework to seal it all in.
hey Ian - looking good mate!
Although I'm sure it will be revealed in time, but how are you arranging your access "hatch" in the steel plate - DZUS fastened/screwed/bolted etc?
Cheers
Al
2443TT ·
Hi ya all,
Well today was a day of non stop interruptions from indecicive customers, so I didnt get a lot done. But I did come close to finishing my new firewall. Its made out of 3mm flat bar and 3mm angle. The long horizontal brace has one angle bar welded at an angle inside another piece of angle bar, to increase its rigidity and to provide the correct angles for the sections of the firewall that will bolt into place. Does that make sense?.. Everything from the horizontal bar forwards will have 1-1.5mm plate spot welded to it, and then be sealed from the back and re-painted.
I'll be using screws to hold the plate in place. You may be able to see the rear sections of the firewall supports are screwed in place (in the pics above, not these two below). They have thread inserts crimped into them. All that remains is making up the pieces that link the steel section to the alloy sections. The firewall will be one large piece with a fold across the middle.
So tomorrow is going to be finishing the firewall, and contemplating how to make a removable rear end.
reub ·
Cool dude👍
VWCOOL ·
G'day Marko!
2443TT ·
Hi Marko,
Welcome to the forum, but by all means start your own threads. This thread is for the rebuild of my car..
Regards,
Ian
2443TT ·
Hi all,
I didnt get much acomplished on the weekend, decided to take it easy for the most part instead, although I did cut the entire rear end off the car. 2 days of planning to do 5 minutes of cutting. Its all turned out very well and has allowed me to finalise the plan for my twin turbo manifold, and intercooler placement.
Today I finished the firewall as well, except for the attachment of the sheet metal which will happen some time this week.
Next on the list is creating the new sealing air level to stop the cooling system recirculating hot air, and also to duct air from the intercoolers into the engine bay. I am about to have to learn a little more about sheet metal work that I can remember from grade 10 metalwork. Should be an interesting challange.
Last of all... here are the latest progress pics of my Rocky Jennings engine case. Trial assembly of the bottom end with an 88mm flanged crank and custom bearings is done. Im told that all that remains is completion of the oil pickup... then one week later it will be in my workshop and engine assembly can begin! Woo hoo! Not long till I need an engine to mock up the header on, so timing is perfect.
Cheers,
Ian
MickH ·
Yummm.....😵💫
2443TT ·
Hi all,
Today I finished the two rear body to chassis mounts off, and half completed the rear-apron re-attachment. Ive used some old urathane swaybar mounts, some 3mm plate and a few bolts to attach the body to the rear suspension bracing.
The whole rear end of the car gets pretty flexable when you start cutting away at the rear wheel arches, so ive welded in some steel tube to the apron and the wheel arch to make the whole lot rigid again. It also will server as the lower mount to supporting the rear apron. I will just be bolting it on with some 10mm threaded rod that gets inserted through the length of the tube. I'll do the top part of the apron mount tomorrow.
I also ordered my aero guard kit from vintage vee dub this week. Thursday is the hopeful arrive date, so I might be trial fitting guards come the weekend. They will need another 50-60mm added to them as well to clear the 8's and 10's.
I solved the steering link-up issue too. Tracked down a factory twin universal porsche 944 steering shaft, removed from a wreck in perfect condition. You wouldnt believe what australian porsche dismantelers want to charge for even a flogged ot one. Found it in the us for $25.
Here's today's pics...
Cheers,
Ian
555bug ·
nice work, i should try to get up north again just to see it 🙂
2443TT ·
Hi all,
Finished the detachable rear apron mounts today. It was very time coming up with a method to positively locate the rear apron so it fit correctly every time. In the end i came up with the idea of using hinges that would normally allow a door to be lifted off the other hinge so to speak. With the hinge folded close on itself the holes line up and it allows a bolt to go through to lock it in place.
So thats the jist of it. The rear apron slides onto the two hinge dowels and then has two 6mm bolts go through the hinge holes to hold them together. Then 10mm threadded rod is slid in the horizontal tubes and bolted at each end. Last of all there is another 6mm bolt with large washers each side that bolts through the inner wheel well at the point of one of the large square edges. The result is a lot more rigid than i expected.
So with that done i put the rear wheels back on and spent the next 2 hrs cleaning up my workshop. Here's todays progress pics. Doesnt look further along than yesterday, but at least it feels like im making some progress. It should be a car again sometime in the next 2-4 months all going well...
That is all...
Ian
Dasdubber ·
Great progress Ian - hats off to you!
What will the plans be for running boards between the extended aero guards?
Al
2443TT ·
I havnt thought that far ahead yet... Though my old running boards are billet alloy I dont think they will look right considerign how much wider the guards are going to have to be. I guess I'll be dealing with that matter soon enough when ive got some widened guards on the car inside the 2-3 weeks.
063bug ·
Thats a good looking project.... very impressive. I am always amazed aty how small the boxer engine is in comparison with the car. I admit I haven't read the whole thread and I was curious to know what size rims and rubber you ended up with as it looks like a really good proportion for the car.... Thanks and keep up the good work.
2443TT wrote:Hi all,
I didnt get much acomplished on the weekend, decided to take it easy for the most part instead, although I did cut the entire rear end off the car. 2 days of planning to do 5 minutes of cutting. Its all turned out very well and has allowed me to finalise the plan for my twin turbo manifold, and intercooler placement.
Today I finished the firewall as well, except for the attachment of the sheet metal which will happen some time this week.
Next on the list is creating the new sealing air level to stop the cooling system recirculating hot air, and also to duct air from the intercoolers into the engine bay. I am about to have to learn a little more about sheet metal work that I can remember from grade 10 metalwork. Should be an interesting challange.
Last of all... here are the latest progress pics of my Rocky Jennings engine case. Trial assembly of the bottom end with an 88mm flanged crank and custom bearings is done. Im told that all that remains is completion of the oil pickup... then one week later it will be in my workshop and engine assembly can begin! Woo hoo! Not long till I need an engine to mock up the header on, so timing is perfect.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
Hi all,
Time for an update.
On the engine front i got an email from Rocky Jennings saying my engine case is ready to be shipped. With any luck it will be here in 2-3 weeks.
My guards arrived from Vintage Vee Dub last week. After trial fitting them ive started about cutting them up to, to widen them another 90mm to clear the wheels.
So here they are, one 1/2 done and the other held together with cable ties for the moment. Ive used pieces of my old carbon fibre firewall cut into rectangles and a whole lot of cable ties to hold the base shape before it all gets glassed into place. The carbon parts will then be ground out of the inside of the guard from beind with a flapper disc on an angle grinder.
This is something i learned a few years ago when making my first porsche fan shround. Fiberglass resin does not stick to plastic packaging tape. With the cable ties holding everything in place I then used tape to fill in the gaps and seal it all up.
And from the other side here it is with two layers of glass matting in it. Its not meant to be structual, its just to hold the shape. The structual part will be built up from the other side and then the inside will be grinded back so it is all the same thickness. I dont want to make them too heavy.
When the resin is hard i peel off the tape and then build up the other side. I hope to finish them off tomorrow. Thats is all for now.
Ian
reub ·
Gonna be a fat bug dude...
I like it - and so does Rach 😉
mactaylor ·
you could have a picnic on those guards!!! good old cable ties gotta love them
trickysimon ·
Forget regular fat chicks. THIS is a fat chick.
Simon
pete wood ·
Ian, great work. your rear framing looks very similar to what I'm up to at the mo. I know what you mean about the lack of support to the rear when you get rid of bodywork. I busted both gusset going from the torsion tube to the pan last year when I got mine slightly airbourne. The fix is a plate and bar system that ties everything together, shock mounts, frame horns, cage, etc. All triangulated of course. I'm very jealous of your strut front end. Wish I'd done that myself in the beginning...stinkin king and link pins! 😬
Brad ·
2443TT wrote:
mm very interesting, while I must say I take my hate off to you for doing this those guards just look wrong. Not that I can think of a better way to do it, surely there must be a better option than screwing the proportions up so much
2443TT ·
Hi everyone,
Pete i'd be interested in seeing what you did with your additional reenforcing, if you could take a pic or two and post it up i'd appreciate it. Ive got to add a little more steel to the pan to provide some better roll cage supports before the body comes off, but the goal in my case is to cage the chassis and keep it as rigid as possible. I dont want to go cracking the body when it starts to twist under the torque from the engine.
Brad, thanks for the honesty. I dont think there is any other way of doing what im doing though. Because the car is so much wider than normal there is no way it can ever look normal.
But thats not the look im going for this time. Insane over the top is the goal here. The front is stitting 50mm too high at the moment too. The front springs are 6kg/mm and they need to be 1.5-1.75kg/mm. Even filling the luggage compartment with spare steel wheels an crap i couldnt get it any lower than about 2.5cm. The back has to go down about 2cm as well. The idea is to hide about 1-1.5cm of the tyre inside the guard. Ride height will be about 120mm at steet height, and on its guts it will be about 80mm.
Here are the latest pics. Both front guards are widened now and still need propper re-enforcing but the basic shape is right and they measure the same. I started the rears today as well. Slow progress as i also had visitors chatting to me all afternoon but I still got some work done.
Thats all for now.
Ian
pete wood ·
2443TT wrote:Pete i'd be interested in seeing what you did with your additional reenforcing, if you could take a pic or two and post it up i'd appreciate it. Ive got to add a little more steel to the pan to provide some better roll cage supports before the body comes off, but the goal in my case is to cage the chassis and keep it as rigid as possible. I dont want to go cracking the body when it starts to twist under the torque from the engine.
Here is the subframe I came up with...
The tabs on the either end of the I-beam section go onto the shockmounts. The shock go in between them in double sheer. The tubes go down onto the chassis forks onto these...
Here it is in situ...
Hopefully things will be a little stiffer with this in place. My next job is to try and drill more speed holes in it. 😎
westi ·
why not use tube for everything,light and strong.
nice effort though.looks like it took awhile.
555bug ·
Fat chicks can look cool when you lay on some wet paint 🙂
This guy has added about the same extension but in steal to standard guards, looks great with the 20's 🙂 oh and this was done over five years ago so pretty wild back then.
pete wood ·
Westi you are 100% correct, but like everything in the car, there always an amount of compromise going on. I went with a piece of steel plate as the basis for the subframe for a few reasons. Firstly, the who structure needed to be as flat as possible against the panel above it. Secondly, there are 12 different mounting points on the plate for cage, shocks and the back seat and a sheet was the easiest way to secure them all. thridly, if there was too much plate material I could just cut it out or drill holes into it to bring the weight down. mmmm....speed holes....👍
So far it's taken me about 20 hours. It would probably only take you 4. 🥲
bond ·
stephen - looks chopped also which makes it look a little out of proportion.
ian - i think it will look just fine as stephen said once painted. well done!
nick
Flintstones ·
2443TT wrote:Brad, thanks for the honesty. I dont think there is any other way of doing what im doing though. Because the car is so much wider than normal there is no way it can ever look normal.
Another way of widening so that the proportions don't look too far out of wack would have been to widen the body. Cut it down the centre then add metal, then again probably be easier to use 2 bodies and splice them together, a lot more work though.....
Cheers
Dino
2443TT ·
Dont get me wrong... I actually do like the look of it a lot!
It might look a little odd in the pictures but thats expected as they arent finished yet. Seeing the join doesnt help that at all.
But standing next to the car, the widened guards do really suit it. And knowing there is 10" of semi slicks under them that will be driven by the most insane engine ive ever built just makes the guards suit the car even more. Its not this wide for the sake of putting wide tyres under it, it is as wide as it is because thats what is needed to allow the car to have the late model 944 turbo suspension setup that it has. Its function over form, though at a glance because it still looks like a beetle on the outside most will think its just wide guards and wheels, unaware of the 400-500hp that will be inside.
Remember part of my inspiration for this car is the Its Fun porsche, a 1978 911 turbo that that had the chassis widened allow the front wheel track to match the width of the rear end. Some of you may know this car... a 1000hp 911.
Taking tomorrow off work, so i hope to have both rear guards 1/2 glassed up by tomorrow night.
Cheers,
Ian
pete wood ·
❗ not much traditional 911 front end left there.
still I suppose it's not about looks as much as go.
1303Steve ·
Hi
The importance of keeping the front track on bug wider than the rear is often overlooked, this car is going to be a weapon. You know how a tricycle handles, with the single front wheel it wants to fall over.
Steve
bond ·
is that the front of the zonda?
volkdent ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
The importance of keeping the front track on bug wider than the rear is often overlooked, this car is going to be a weapon. You know how a tricycle handles, with the single front wheel it wants to fall over.
Steve
I'll second that! I widened my front end 3" to try to keep up with the rear. I'm always amazed when "narrowed beam" and "handling" end up in the same sentence.
Jason
2443TT ·
Last time i checked the track was the same front and rear (1730mm), which is the same as the 951 chassis that all the suspension parts are from. I do see your point though. Just standing next to my R33 GTR 's front wheel and looking to the back you can see the front track is much wider than the rear, that that is a car thats designed for the handling.
pete wood ·
volkdent wrote:
1303Steve wrote:Hi
The importance of keeping the front track on bug wider than the rear is often overlooked, this car is going to be a weapon. You know how a tricycle handles, with the single front wheel it wants to fall over.
Steve
I'll second that! I widened my front end 3" to try to keep up with the rear. I'm always amazed when "narrowed beam" and "handling" end up in the same sentence.
Jason
the things that astounds me is that they then take the shocks off as well and pronounce the handling as "great". 🤪
Cam ·
pete wood wrote:the things that astounds me is that they then take the shocks off as well and pronounce the handling as "great". 🤪
The man brings the truth... Amen!!!
You also have to wonder about the tire choice too... smart car tires or 135's coupled with used 165's... well sussed out set-up there 🙅
2443TT ·
But so many of the documented and very commonly done things we have all done to the suspension on our VW's is all so very wrong if we ever wanted the car's to handle really well. Pretty much everything in the commonly done modification list with the exception of lowering (which also upsets castor, but never mind that).
Dropped spindles that offset the hub and mess with the scrub radius of the tyre, cause instability over rough surfaces and mess with the turn in of the car as the steering angles change... We've all done that before. Though really there isnt a lot of valid scope for getting great handling out of a 1960's design. So often its a compromise with handling to get the look we all want, like getting those 6+7" fuchs rims under the stock fenders.
Cam ·
Offsetting the hub... Is this in relation to moving the hub closer to the top torsion leaves, or something completely different?
Unfortunately the problem also lays with being at mercy of what the aftermarket offers, this is mostly catered towards form OVER function.
mactaylor ·
the more offset the bolt face is from the balljoint centreline[with positive or negative castor] the greater the arc thestub axle sweeps through you can go from + camber to - camber with very little steering input.
2443TT ·
Speaking of steering... On friday at last the 944 turbo steering shaft and universals arrived from the US. Installation was very simple. Ive just shortened the shaft a little and also on one end I had to machine 1mm off the diameter so it fits inside the VW steering column. After goes trial fitting it I then slot cut the vw collumn and and welded solid 944 steering shaft to the vw column.
The column has to be installed from the bottom now which is no big deal. I made sure it can be removed without having to lift the body off the chassis... just in case. The shaft is being supported by a VW steering column bearing. I'll get two new ones and install one in each end of the column to support the shaft. The setup works great. Im going to be getting my engineer by next week to look at it, and give me my blue plate.
I didnt make much more progress that this today, though both rear guards are now all cable tied together and ready for glassing up now. Tomorrow will be a busy day. Here are the pics.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
Hi all,
Made a little more progress this afternoon. The front guards 3/4 finished now. Yesterday I built up the outside of the guards to make it strong so today I could grind out the little carbon fibre pieces I had used to hold it all in shape. I then went about smoothing the whold guard over inside and out to get the base shape right while making it as thin as possible. The next step is to build it up structurly again using multiple thin layers. I dont want to to be much heavier than they were before i widened them but they must be strong.
Here are the pics:
Thats all for now.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
I get itchy just looking at those pics dude 😁
2443TT ·
3 down 1 to go... The finish is still rough but the shape is right now. With the last one done i'll mask up the car, bolt them on and do the finishing with them bolted to something solid.
2443TT ·
At last... custom swaybars have arrived. Sent away months ago, lost, found, transferred to another company, lost again, finally fabricated and then the 3 days shipping to cairns took 2 weeks. Better late than never so they say...
Engineering of the modifications has been re-sheduled to Thursday this week. After which I will have a mod code for just about everything that can be modified on a car. No other updates to speak of... I had to work a whole day today for a change...
Cheers,
Ian
Golde60 ·
I want to see just how mean that car looks once those W I D E guards go on
Function over form, its gonna look mean alright.
Have you mocked them up now that they are finished?
2443TT ·
Since you asked... and also because tomorrow I need to show the engineer that the steering works and doesnt foul on anything... here is one side of the car assembled. I've also dropped the front end to its lowest level. This is 100mm from the chassis framehead to the ground, the guards are 125mm at their lowest point to the ground. Im pretty happy with how its looking. Its looking insane, which is what I was hoping for. The back is still stitting a little high as there is no engine in there. The idea is to get a little of the tyre up inside the guard (which is why they are a little wider than they need to be, to allow the car to get lower to the ground while still having 2-2.5" suspension travel.
Still finishing the left rear guard, and i need to tidy the ends where the rolled edges are on the rears and the fronts a little more. Ive gotten them very close to flat without using any bog so far. Its been raining the past 2 days so i havent been able to take the guards outside to sand. Ive been trying to limit how much dust I get over everything inside the workshop...(it hasnt worked).
Cheers,
Ian
VWCOOL ·
f a r k !
reub ·
....what he said 🙂
555bug ·
*3
2443TT ·
Woo Hoo! Engineering passed. The car now has 3 mod plates with 10 codes in all. Ive shown the engineer my 1/2 cage design and thats been approved as well!
reub ·
Congrats Dude
pete wood ·
looks great. look even better with a lick of paint. 😏
JVLRacing ·
2443TT wrote:Since you asked... and also because tomorrow I need to show the engineer that the steering works and doesnt foul on anything... here is one side of the car assembled. I've also dropped the front end to its lowest level. This is 100mm from the chassis framehead to the ground, the guards are 125mm at their lowest point to the ground. Im pretty happy with how its looking. Its looking insane, which is what I was hoping for. The back is still stitting a little high as there is no engine in there. The idea is to get a little of the tyre up inside the guard (which is why they are a little wider than they need to be, to allow the car to get lower to the ground while still having 2-2.5" suspension travel.
Still finishing the left rear guard, and i need to tidy the ends where the rolled edges are on the rears and the fronts a little more. Ive gotten them very close to flat without using any bog so far. Its been raining the past 2 days so i havent been able to take the guards outside to sand. Ive been trying to limit how much dust I get over everything inside the workshop...(it hasnt worked).
Cheers,
Ian
nothing wrong with that mmmm😎
2443TT ·
Well the ball is definatly rolling down hill now. This afternoon I finished the last of the body to chassis mounts. Boy was that fun because no matter how much you sweep a concrete floor it always seems to retain some fiberglass dust Then I stripped the car back to nearly nothing again, body off the pan, and am stripping back the chassis at the moment.
This tomorrow and this weekend I'll be finishing the chassis off completely so it can be sand blasted and painted next week and the final assembly can begin. All that remains to be done on the chassis is front and rear sway bar mounts, seat belt mounts and some minor corrections to the front suspension alignment.
Im going to enjoy doing something with metal again, im sick of that fiberglass crap.
Flintstones ·
Great to here it passed engineering!!!👍👍
Cheers
Dino
2443TT ·
Hi all,
Well this weekend I went hard at it and the chassis is now within a few hours of being finished. The front swaybar mounts are finished. I added a triangle into the front suspension mount with some 5mm plate which strengthens the suspension mount and also allowed me to dril and tap some 12mm threads to mount the swaybar too. The back is done simular with mounts welded to the rear torsion housing which are also drilled and tapped with 12mm threads.
Ive also added a little more 5mm plate to the floor pan in front of the torsion housing at the outside to serve as the base for the roll cage mounts and seatbelt mounts. Last of all I went to town on fully welding the outer edges of the floor pan from the under side where the 40mm plate joins the 20x20 angle.
The chassis is now fully stripped of all parts and ive put bolts in everywhere there is a thread so I can have the chassis sand blasted and painted next. Ive also added some industrial casters to it so its easy to wheel around. As for the weight, i estimate the front weighs around 70kg and the back about 60. With it stripped i can easily pickup the chassis and move it around, so it will be very intestesting to see what a corner weight is when its assembled.
All that remains now is to go over it with a flapper disk and remove as much splatter as I can from it so it will look nice an clean when its painted and the final assmebly begins. Sand blasting and priming this week, then paintin on the weekend when i convert my second garage into a spray booth. 🙂 !!!
Here are the pics.
Cheers,
Ian
Dasdubber ·
Two garages....now thats just being greedy Ian! 😉
Nice progress by the way, I bet you are looking forward to painting the chassis - obviously it is a very well thought-out project so hopefully there will be no "Doh - wish I welded that there before I bloody painted it!"
All the best
Al
2443TT ·
Dasdubber wrote:Two garages....now thats just being greedy Ian! 😉
Nice progress by the way, I bet you are looking forward to painting the chassis - obviously it is a very well thought-out project so hopefully there will be no "Doh - wish I welded that there before I bloody painted it!"
All the best
Al
Yes indeed it is very handy having the 2nd garage. I park the gtr in there for the moment so it doesnt get covered in dust from all the work ive been doing on the vw lately.
Yes I am getting very psyched about doing the assembly soon. I am hoping i won't have any of those "dam i should have welded that in moments"... thats what the trial fitting to the chassis was for... hopefully that was enough. Its all going to be done in 2pack so it should be possible to touch up if necessary though.
I might start a debate on what colours to paint it all too.
I am going to re-spray the shell and guards at some stage, most likely a dark metalic grey like Ive seen on the porsche 997's but initially im just going to have the guards done in arctic silver. The interior current has black and grey seats, silver autometer gauges and a lot of carbon fibre trim. I am going to keep that theme on the outside too with some custom carbon running boards/side skirts and the engine lid.
As for the chassis I am thinking a medium grey hammertone, or just a plain medium grey. The 1mm alloy floor pan sections can be done in another colour, or the same as the chassis. They will be screwed and sikaflexed to the chassis from the underside.
Alloy suspension parts will be etch primed and painted light grey. Shocks will remain green. Spindles, steering rack and swaybar mounts will be black.
I'll be doing the brake rotor centers light grey same as the suspension parts, and the calipers will be detailed but painted black again (everyone has red calipers).
All feel free to jump in with suggestions.
Dasdubber ·
2443TT wrote:I might start a debate on what colours to paint it all too.
We all know what colour Pete and westi would choose 😂
matberry ·
Dasdubber wrote:
2443TT wrote:I might start a debate on what colours to paint it all too.
We all know what colour Pete and westi would choose 😂
PINK bits
Brad ·
Any ideas on how much it will weigh ?
2443TT ·
Not sure... its got to be pretty close to a factory pan though. This evening I cleaned up the weld splatter with a flapper disc and then end for end flipped it to tip out all the dust and crap from the tunnel. It wasnt easy but I managed (im not a big guy... about 68kg). Time will tell... i'll know in a few weeks and will weight it as a bare chassis for comparison to westi's build. Westi's posted corner weights of his chassis in his thread from memory....
Saw the sand blasters today... Its off to be blasted and painted tomorrow morning!!!
Golde60 ·
Golde60 wrote:I want to see just how mean that car looks once those W I D E guards go on
Function over form, its gonna look mean alright.
WOW
thats WWWWIIIIIIIIIIIIDDDDDDDEEEEEEE
I like it.
I think I underestimated what the finished product would look like, but I am impressed.....
Can t wait to see and hear it run
When does the case arrive from Rocky?
Golde60 ·
best of luck with the painting Ian
As for the chassis and pan, I m voting for them being the same colour - black......
2443TT ·
Woo Hoo! Picked up the chassis from the sand blasters today. No assmebly this weekend though as im off to melbourne for a 2 days training on tuning the Wolf ECU, since ive just recently become the Cairns distributor for Wolf ecu's and will soon be listed as an authorised tuner.
Pic...
The Rocky Jennings engine case should arrive tomorrow. Paid GST on it yesterday and it left sydney by air last night.
Detailing and chassis assemby starts next week.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
Looks like a nicely evolved volksie chassis there dude! Nice work...👍
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Looks the real deal now with nice glossy paint Ian!!
VWFREAK ·
Crazy stuff Ian, keep it coming.
Mick058 ·
beautiful, thanks for posting...it's been sad not seeing your daily progress as you waited for the chassis.
It's like missing out on the morning coffee. 🙁
2443TT ·
Hi Guys,
Melbourne was too bloody cold yesterday, but the Wolf EFI training was awesome. Ive learnt heaps about the new V5's ecu's capabilities, all i need to do is finish a car so I can apply some of these things ive learned to what Im building.
Today I collected the new engine block fresh from Rocky Jenning's workshop. It looks great. Its a 2.1 block, water jackets removed, raceware main stud kit which torque to 40ft-lb, barrel shimms for 94mm cylinders, machined offset stud inserts for 94mm bores, the case is internally clearanced for the 88mm crank and has a custom bearing set to suit my 88mm flanged crank and this case, and last of all sleaved lifter bores. I expect i'll be doing a trial assembly inside a month, however the main focus for me is still to finish the chassis.
I purchased the paint to detail all the chassis components today, and the remaining parts (new steering rack ends, tie rods etc) are waiting at the postoffice for me to collect tomorrow. Prep for painting and detailing starts tonight!
Cheers,
Ian
trickysimon ·
Don't know anything about these engines. What are the 3 grooves under the identification stamp down the bottom for?
Simon
hellbugged ·
nice one Ian, can't wait to see more.........mmmmmm oxyboxer
66deluxe ·
hellbugged wrote:nice one Ian, can't wait to see more.........mmmmmm oxyboxer
Oxyboxer, my dream engine.
silver ·
trickysimon wrote:Don't know anything about these engines. What are the 3 grooves under the identification stamp down the bottom for?
Simon
clearance for case stud access
2443TT ·
Ok guys brace yourselves... final assembly has begun.
Tomorrow im painting the rear end parts, and putting in the steering rack which is painted now but still drying.
Cheers,
Ian
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
mmm very noice!!
reub ·
I'm getting v e r y excited dude...😁
Flintstones ·
it's looking the business!!👍👍
Cheers
Dino
volkdent ·
How much, if any, did you have to cut out of the body around the front end of the front control arms? I looked at doing this years ago and as I remember it needed to have a decent amount cut out of the rear of the spare tire well. If you had to cut, can you snap a couple of pics?
Jason
2443TT ·
I didnt have to cut any material from the front or the rear to clear the suspension. The mcpherson strut front end clears the body by about 5mm each side. I did however remove a fair amount of the rear inner guards to make room for the much wider than stock engine, and to make the rear apron removable.
This suspension setup has been made possible due to the wider chassis (rotor to rotor) that the later model 944s/968's have. They wheels have small offsets. The early 944's are much narrower rotor to rotor, and use large offset wheels instead.
In my case I have not wanted to keep the standard wheel track. The chassis is 200mm wider overall than a standard bug, making it the same as the 944's. This means all my steering angles will be the same as the 944. Only bump steer will be slightly different as the steering rack sits slightly higher (about 10mm) than it would be on a 944. When the car is lowered to its limit that issue is solved.
In hindsight I really think the front and rear suspension from a r32 gtr skyline would have been a better way to go as far as handling is concerned. Double A arms all around. But the front end would have gotten very complicated and as for steering geometry... the gtr is probably very diferent to the VW or porsche 944.
volkdent ·
thanks for the reply. When you mate the body and pan again will you snap a pic of the area behind the spare tire well where it is near the front of the control arms?
I think the KISS priciple is the best, and you've done a pretty good job with that. I went double wishbone myself, which is in itself complicated, but very little cutting of the body or pan to offset that.
Look forward to a handling report!
Jason
2443TT ·
Well today i installed the steering rack, all the hydraulic hard lines for the brakes and clutch. Then went to work sanding one of the rear trailing arms and then painted it. Its time consuming doing all this work but I think its worth it in the end.
Here are the pics of today's progress.
Cheers,
Ian
pete wood ·
that pan is looking great ian. should handle much better than anything with a torsion frontend. I assume you be putting in ali panels on floor to keep the weight down?
just curious, why did you go oxyboxer? (great choice though) but I thought you had a really good block on the last motor?
2443TT ·
The last motor was a 2332 and used a brasilian magnesium case. It was good for what it was but wouldnt handle well above 300hp. This oxy boxer is good for 500hp easy. I also purcahsed a CB alloy case, and when doing a few modifications (welding to change the way some of the oil galleries work), parts of the case just started colapsing with porosity. That left me with a pretty shakey confidance factor for that case.
Oxy boxer has a lot of advantages. My 2443 will drop right in, but i can easily up that to a 96 or 97mm bore and have 2.6lt. I may still be purchasing some autocraft heads for the engine yet. The engine build is still a fair ways off so i'll worry about that then.
Floor panels were going to be alloy but im now thinking carbon fiber would work well as well. It wont oxidise and looks good too. Why not go all out...
So ime done working for the day, time to go put some painted parts on the chassis. Expect some pics to be uploaded tonight.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
Ok another update...
Rear suspension is now back on the car. I should have spent more time making a better gearbox rear mount because one of the nuts took an hour to do up with an open ended spanner because Ive used nylock nuts on the mounts. Other than that all is going well.
So tomorrow is CV's and spring plates and thats pretty much it for the chassis till more parts are ready. Ive got to get the brake calipers bead blasted and re-paint them next week, and I also need some new torsion housing bushes which I will order next week. I think I'll have to clean up my workshop instead too because its a shambles at the moment.
Cheers,
Ian
dangerous ·
Boy you got that tranny lookin' pretty salubrious there Ian!
Love the car look...it is really coming together now.
Cam ·
The car is looking unreal, Ian. You must be wrapped with how well it's bolting together.
Are you going to paint the calipers to match the swaybars? a'la PCCB calipers 😀
2443TT ·
dangerous wrote:Boy you got that tranny lookin' pretty salubrious there Ian!
Love the car look...it is really coming together now.
Salubrious! Great word Dave! Thats the second time ive ever heard it used in a sentance. Yep im really picking up speed on the project now.
Cam wrote:The car is looking unreal, Ian. You must be wrapped with how well it's bolting together.
Are you going to paint the calipers to match the swaybars? a'la PCCB calipers 😀
Im kind of torn between classic red or original black for the calipers. I think the yellow looks good on the 996 monoblock calipers, but not the early 3 piece brembo's...
The calipers are being bead blasted this week and will be painted on the weekend.
I completely re-organised my workshop over the weekend and cleared off my engine building bench to get ready for the trial assembly which I will be doing this week.
Cheers,
Ian
westi ·
looking good.as always.
when are you getting to the business end of the deal(motor).
hurry up already.
i want to see some engine stuuf happening
2443TT ·
Thanks Westi. Ive been holding off on the motor for a few reasons mainly waiting the arrival of the case, but also so I would finish the chassis properly. But... the "business end" of the deal started today.
For starters I've just put the crank and new bearings in the case with 2 rods to see if it all clears and rotates with no issues and it all looks good. On each side of the rear main you can see ive had to shave a little more of an angle to clear the more extreme radius on the mains that the flanged crank I am running has. Ive also set the end float... and that was it for today.
I cant do a full build of the engine yet as ive got to get a few more things balanced. Thats going to take a few weeks to get sorted out, but i'll be plastigauging the mains tomorrow and checking cam-crankl clearances then too. Then its time to finish the body so I can start to put some of these larger pieces together again.
I got the CV's re-installed and rear swaybar mounts done as well.
Thats all for now.
westi ·
sweet.
keep it coming.
mactaylor ·
are you sure that sway bar mount is strong enough it looks abit on the weak side. Sorry to question your stuff.
2443TT ·
mactaylor wrote:are you sure that sway bar mount is strong enough it looks abit on the weak side. Sorry to question your stuff.
They are actually toyota camry sway bar links. They are cadnium plated 10mm high tensile. The ball joint and rod are angled such that suspens travel is going to keep the rod at 90 degrees to the sway bar mount, so it should be ok. I think they only like tiny because everything else around it is engineered overkill.
But I am contemplating changing the threadded rod part to a grade 12 allen head bolt, so it doesnt have a thread the entire length of the link, which where it would most likely bend. I was supposed to make it to a fasteners shop today but didnt quite make it that far. Unfortunatly my work gets in the way of my play sometimes...
bajamat ·
nice work dude its going to be wild cant wait to see it finished 🙂
2443TT ·
Hi Everyone,
Time for an update again...
Well ive completed two trial assemblies of the bottom end of the engine so far and checked bearing and rotating clearences etc. All is looking good so the bearings are being sent off to be coated with competition coatings. Dave from LN Engineering has sent me a floater plate for my twin plate clutch system so thats a couple of steps closer to having the engine sorted out. Rod penrose is having a set of barrels machined to match my CP pistons perfectly, and thats about all the news on the engine front.
Ive now finished 99% of the chasssis. This weekend ive changed the rear sway bar mounts and re-painted and fitted up the brake calipers. All the brake lines are finished. Next is getting some custom Ebrake cables made, securing the brake and clutch lines along the length of the chassis, and makes some floor pan panel sections. All in all its looking pretty sexy.
Here are the pics.
Thats all for now.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
Sensational dude👍
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Mate that is a work of art!!
rocknrob ·
geez Ian...it's been 9 days😠 anybody else suffering withdrawals?😬
trickysimon ·
Was thinking same thing 🥲
Simon
Sides ·
Me three !!!
😵
2443TT ·
Sorry guys ive had a very busy week with work and also 1/2 tuned a friends 13B and a re-tuned my GTR to get some better fuel economy.
As far as the my VW project goes, i have made 3 of the 6 pieces of floor pan section in carbon fibre sheeting. Then I ran out of resin which i purchased more of today. The parts ive made look very nice, but need to be 2 pack clear coated before being glued to the chassis. The firewall framework sections inside the car are having some sheet metal cut for them this week, so I can finish that off soon too. I collected my balanced pistons from the machine ship today, so all I need is cylinders back from Rod and I can begin the final engine assembly.
1303Steve ·
Hi
If he's doing something that keeps him away from here, you can guarantee its going to be worth waiting for.
Steve
Mick058 ·
🥲
063bug ·
....would love to be you bank manager...... 😂
...patience is a virtue
2443TT ·
Hi,
Yes its been a while since ive made noticable progress on the car. Again I spent 1/2 this weekend fine tuning a friends rotary, but that should be over and done with now. The same guy is a boilermaker by trade and will be making my new turbo header up for me. His welding is like artwork.
Current engine things in the works are my main bearings are still at competition coatings, and my new cylinders for the engine should arrive this coming week.
I did make some progress this weekend with the car. Where all the metal was cut out of the back of the shell and a new firewall section was framed up is now all paneled in with sheet metal. Ive also trimmed the edges and re-enforced them all with 20x20x3 angle along the back of the firewall, and 20x3 flat bar down the inside of the wheel well. This has restored the structual integrity of the car so the entire back end is nice and rigid again now.
Before
After
Ive made 1/2 the carbon fibre floor panels for the chassis too, but stupidly managed to smash my piece of glass I was laying it up on today. So next week I'll have to purchase another sheet to make the remaining pieces. It might be overkill a little, but for those that havent seen the rest of the interior here's a photo to refresh your memories, and also a sneek preview of whats to come...
The floor panel sections are 3 layer carbon, 2 layer glass, very light, and i can stand on it and not fall through so its strong enough. I wouldnt want to jump on it though..
More updates to come. Hopefully make a lot of progress tomorrow.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
063bug wrote:....would love to be you bank manager...... 😂
Been doing quite a few cash jobs lately... so after buying fuel and groceries, what better to spend it on that a vw!
2443TT ·
Hi Guys,
No engine progress still as the bearings are still at competition engineering. Aparently the guy that does the work has been in hostpital.
So ive gotten stuck into the body again this weekend. Welded up the holes I blew through the body sheet metal when welding in the re-enforcing bars etc and have now got a layer of 2 pack etch prmer on all the metal. All in all im pretty happy with how its progressing. Ive started on the guards again now too, which will have to be finished on the car before I can spray inside the guards etc black.
Here are the pics...
More progress will happen tomorrow...
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
Spent the day fiberglassing, working toward finishing off the remaining 3 guards. Ive also smoothed over the firewall sections too and sprayed on a second coat of primer.
Cheers,
Ian
trickysimon ·
Guard looks the money now that its all the one colour 👍
Simon
2443TT ·
Hi everyone,
I am so over messing around with fiberglass. Sand, glass, grind, shower, itch itch itch, repeat. Fortunatly the guards are now about 90% perfect. I just need to trim back the edges a little and then have my panel beater mate finish the guards off. Here are the latest pics... Still not in primer, but at the curves are now all right and the thickness of the guards is even accross the jointed area's.
This means I get to start on engine assembly this weekend. Prepare yourselfs for some serious engine porn Reub!
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
Lookin good dude...
Bring on the engine porn I say 👍
2443TT ·
Hi All,
Well engine build is still on hold waiting for rod bearings bolts. Closer inspection of my teflon coated bearings showed they had dust in the coating, so when they were sprayed with the coating the teflon coating was contaminated. Ive decided to run without the coating on the rod bearings now. The mains are all coated and are fine.
I have tracked down my panel beater/spray painter mate and now have him working for me daily for as long as it takes to finish the body. The diference that having a professional working on the car makes is huge. I'd done a pretty good job of putting flat spots all over the guards so thats being fixed first.
Ive also stripped out the rest of the car and have decided to re-spray the entire shell again. You may ask why because it did look pretty good. Fact is though the touch up job that was done to it 2+ years ago resulted in the panel shops apprentices damaging quite a few areas, intruducing new flaws when they fixed the old ones, and also the entire back of the car from just behind the doors has dust in the clear coat. So im hunting for a new colour too. Im looking at some of the careera GT colour range at the moment.
So here is a few pics of the progress...
Stripped out...
Thin layer of rage gold filler over the guards and gaps al corrected.
This is an adjustable hinge support made from welding a headstud nut to the standard hinge bolt. Adjusting the long bolt pushes the hinge forward and supports the weight of the luggage lid better.
And the result of this.... is that the gaps are now 100 x better than they were... 😀
Should have daily progress for the next few days all going well.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
Looking good dude...
Bring on the updates...and the painted car!
trickysimon ·
You sure wern't joking when you named it Project No Budget 😂
Simon
bond ·
an iron cross ian?
gaurds look awesome!
nick
2443TT ·
bond wrote:an iron cross ian?
gaurds look awesome!
nick
Yep, its a Blitzkrieg racing iron cross badge. They are billet alloy polished and look pretty cool. Goes to show how dusty the car was that you can still see the iron cross with the badge removed...
2443TT ·
Hey all,
Another progress update. Only one guard left to sort out now and they will be ready for a coat of high build polyester primer. Then the whole car will be wet rubbed, primed wet rubbed again etc...
My panel beater has been worked the edge of the body where it meets the guards flat again so there is a no gap between the guards. The idea is to have a perfect fit finish and no need to instal the fender beading for a super clean fit. New tail lights arrived from Vintage Vee Dub today too just in time to be fitted. (Free plug, please give me a discount next time I call).
Ive decided on a colour too. Atlas Grey. Its a very dark nearly black grey metalic used on the porsche carrera gt's.
So here are the pics...
Had a couple of boxes arrive from Carillo and CSP today too, containing the last of the engine parts.
Thats all for now...
Ian
1303Steve ·
Hi
Looking good, I liked the colour your car was. Some silvers look very flat when photographed, yours didn't.
Steve
2443TT ·
My panel guy says its all to do with how its applied. When the arctic silver was sprayed on first it looked great. But the touch ups that were done stuffed the whole finish of the car.
Aparently to lay a metalic properly a thin black base goes on first. Then the first base colour coat. Then a second base colour coat goes on as a thin and dry (dusted) layer. This causes the metalic flake to really stand up. Then the clear coats. The best paint in the world will look like crap if applied by a monkey and it was all PPG last time. Its going to be standox this time, which is as good if not better than ppg.
I really liked the arctic silver it was too, but that whole drama I went through with getting the respray done to fix the flaws (and there was quite a few), having them re-spray the whole car again, intruduce more flaws than it had the first time around, manage to get dust through the clear coat from the back to 1/2 way to the front of the car, strip bolts and bend panels... I am just over it. Sure it did look good to anyone that looked at it last time but I knew where the flaws where. I'd hand assembled the whole car from scratch.
Should the panel beaters that sprayed the car last time see it again, they will know for sure that its not their work thats winning a trophy. Plus the whole look of the car is changing this time too. Fenderless, no chrome, satin black headlight trim, indicator trim and door handles and running boards, and tinted tail lights. Last time it was a sleeper, this time its going to look menacing.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Looking good Ian. Can't wait to see it with some colour on it!!
reub ·
Running bumpers?? 👍
2443TT ·
No way dude, bumperless! Just going to have a bracket coming out one of the bumper mount slot that will have a number plate attached to it.
reub ·
2443TT wrote:No way dude, bumperless! Just going to have a bracket coming out one of the bumper mount slot that will have a number plate attached to it.
Sweet 😎
2443TT ·
Hi everyone,
Update time... The bodywork is now for the most part sorted out. The fitment of the guards is now perfect. They are going to be hit with a coat of polyester spray putty to sort them out 100% next week though as there are still a few minor bumps that need to be sorted.
The car had a few low and high spots on panels and the doors that needed to be rubbed back wiith a propper flat sanding block. The more work that has been done to the car this week, the more flaws we found that needed to be repaired. I was hoping for the car to be in primer by friday evening but id rather have less flaws in the body than be further along toward having it painted than I presently am.
The luggage compartment lid handle is now shaved, and the old holes for the previous mirrors have been welded up and smoothed over too.
So here are the pics as it is now.
Cheers,
Ian
Golde60 ·
looking good
trickysimon ·
You def need to grab that rice spoiler off the car in front!
Simon
2443TT ·
trickysimon wrote:You def need to grab that rice spoiler off the car in front!
Simon
You mean my GTR? Thats not a rice spoiler... its a factory N1 R33 bumper and lip spoiler.
trickysimon ·
Oops 🤪
I actually like skylines, the tailights threw me off. Thought it was a Lancer or Honda.
Isnt your skyline white?
Simon
2443TT ·
LOL your right! I forgot all about the lancer in the driveway and didnt even realise it was in the photo's. And yes the rice wing is huge on it. Its my panel beaters girlfriends car. Not my style either, and to the dusgust of many of the local import croud it continues to win top jap trophies at the car shows because of the custom paint too. Yes my skyline is still white as per my signature pic...
Made a little progress on the car today, but spent most of the time making my garage water ready for when the wet rubbing starts. Ive glued a rubber strip to the floor the length of the garage to divert water, and have moved most of the stuff that cant get wet so nothing exciting to report as yet. At the current rate it will be in colour by thursday or friday. Im going to see about renting a booth tomorrow.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
Hey alll,
The bug is in primer at last. Just the body for starters. My wimpy air compressor wasnt up to the task of blowing the polyester spray putty through a spray gun, which is the high fill coat thats going on the guards before they are given a coat of standox primer. The body is now ready for a wet rub inside and out which will happen tomorrow.
I arranged a spray booth for thursday and friday, so all going well and weather permitting, the inside will have a coat of base colour on it wednesday afternoon, then the body onto the chassis and over to a booth where everything will be given its final colour and clear coats.
Here are the pics.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
Hi all,
Some colour at last! The interior of the car is now painted and cleared. Its a hard to photograph colour because in my garage with the bad light it looks black without a flash, and with it changes colour completely. Basicly looks like dark gun metal in bright light and under lights you see a blue pearl with gold metalic.
Here are the pics...
Tomorrow is a day of wet rubbing and then its back on the chassis and off to the booth for painting friday.
I am so stoned from breathing paint fumes...😂
Cheers,
Ian
Turbo54 ·
Looks killer mate, Needs STELTH number plates. I had a feeling it would go dark. It's going to be a mean car when your done.
T54
Flintstones ·
Looking good Ian,
Can't wait to see it finished!!
Cheers
Dino
trickysimon ·
Looks good. So I'm guessing it will be ready for warwick this weekend? 😂
Simon
reub ·
DUUUUUUUUUUUUDE.... going to be sex when finished. That is an awesome colour👍
JVLRacing ·
my popcorn taste nice😎NICE
volkdent ·
Really looking great, jealous of your straight body!!! Keep up the amazing work.
Jason
2443TT ·
Thanks for the comments guys. The STEALTH and STELTH QLD plates are already taken... Im not sure how appropriate a plate it would be for it too considering the complete engine recipe can rev safely to 9000 rpm now, and will probably be running a 3" exhaust out each side of the car. Not terribly stealthy at all.
Today saw the completion of the rubbing back of the polyester spray putty on the guards, and the car is now had its first rub down with 400 wet on all the primered surfaces. It wont be in the booth tomorrow though. I was a little over ambitious thinking that was going to be possible. I think taking it slow now will produce a far better result later. So 600 and then 800 wet rubbing tomorrow, and the guards will get a coat of standox primer and a final rub as well. I think it will be in the booth tuesday or wednesday next week realisticly.
Today's pics...
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
The spray booth is scheduled for thursday, so tomorrow is going to be just a final check over for the whole car. Its all 100% prepped. I put the shell on the chassis this afternoon and bolted it on with 4 bolts for the trip to the paint shop on the back of a flat bed truck come thursday.
Ive had my first oh crap moment with the chassis too. The last thing I welded onto the chassis was the front body mounts that support the body just under the fuel tank. While i double checked it before I welded the mount into place, I forgot to account for the 10mm rubber cushons that go between the mount and the body. So its not so bad though. Nothing a cut off wheel wont fix and I can easily sort that out after its painted.
The body comes off the pan for the paint job, then goes back on for transport to my home again. Then off again to have the finishing work done, that being 1200 sand and buff (allowing me to fix the front body mount on the chassis too). Then finally back on again.
Here are the latest pics.
Cheers,
Ian
humpty ·
Your a bloody nutter Ian...
Not to my taste, but bloody awesome work....
I can not comprehend the level of work you have put into this machine...
I'm sure it will be an awesome no compromise street car!!
Bring on the track videos!
2443TT ·
And the irony is that I do work on cars to keep me sane. I find this sort of thing relaxing...
Today the car was wheeled into the back yard to give it a final clean and check over before it sees the booth tomorrow. Here's a few more pics.
The next pics will be of the car in full colour! Woo Hoo!
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
DUDE!!!
Hanging out to see more pics tomorrow!!!...looking sweet
cram ·
Awesome work Ian!
Inspirational stuff.
mountainbug ·
Mate... grand proportions.. You are raising the bar even higher.. Well Done.... A bit like daz on steroids
Cheers
Johno
555bug ·
it come a bloody long way since I was up North last many years ago 🙂 Its a credit to you
hellbugged ·
bring on tomorrow!
unbelievable vision and persistance.......kudos
1303Steve ·
Hi
It looks fast standing still. Great work.
Steve
2443TT ·
Atlas Grey at last! Today was insane juggling work and getting the car to the booth, off the chassis etc. But its done now.
The finish came up very nice. As i do this post the paint is still wet.
She is sleeping in the booth tonight. The paint will be checked over closely when back home, touched up, interior polished etc before assembly. Then the real work starts!
Enjoy!
Cheers,
Ian
trickysimon ·
Wow talk about shiny 👍
Bet thats gunna look tough when its finished.
Simon
JVLRacing ·
Dont scratch it😎
Dasdubber ·
Mmmm, I can smell the clear coat from here! Looks great Ian, keep up the awesome work.
Al
reub ·
SWEET👍
555bug ·
👍
vassy66T1 ·
Looking fantastic!!!
Well done!!
Flintstones ·
Man, that is such a nice colour on the dub!!
Cheers
Dino
humpty ·
Speechless...
StenGuns ·
Outstanding
dangerous ·
Nice work Ian,
now for the engine porn!......
Cam ·
dangerous wrote:Nice work Ian,
now for the engine porn!......
What he said 😀
volkdent ·
Gorgeous!!! I need a cigarette....🤪
Jason
2443TT ·
Thanks for the feedback guys!
Got it back on the chassis and home again this morning. There is still more to do to the paint yet. Its going to be de-nibbed and have the interior polished before I go instlaling the dashboard and interior again. The body comes off the pan one more time to make doing the final work easier.
Here are a few pictures...
Im exhausted. Its been a long week juggling work and arranging this to happen at the same time. Engine build isnt far away... Just waiting on conrod bearings from Rod, and i need to clean my workshop out too. Everything has a layer of dust on it.
Cheers,
Ian
bond ·
ian - any mock up shots with the fenders on as yet?!
can't wait.
nick
2443TT ·
Not as yet Nick. I still need to let the paint harden up properly. I'll probably hang the front fenders monday but the rears will stay off as will the rear apron for a while to allow engine fittment, exhaust header fabrication etc. I am geting pretty psyched about getting it running though! Early-mid December is the goal.
STOCK ·
WOW , WOW , WOW ,
IF MY NEXT PROJECT LOOKS HALF AS GOOD
ID BE STOKED
UNREAL JOB MATE 👍👍👍
063bug ·
.... awesome 👍
humpty ·
Far out that paint looks awesome...
Its amazing how quick your paint shop turn-around was.... It pays to have good prep I guess...
You gonna leave the rims the same colour or paint them?
2443TT ·
I employed a friend that is a spray painter/panel beater nearly the the past 3 weeks. Then we rented a booth from a local panel shop that my mate new well. We had to supply all our own materials and do all the labour. The shop supplied air, light and the booth for $200. Its a good way of doing it if you can find the time to do all the hard work yourself. The amount of errands ive run this past week is nuts. Ive driven an extra 100km in round town traffic just going out collecting small items. Might not sound like much but I actually live about 5 minutes from evey place I went in the middle of the industrial area.
For the moment the rims will remain factory colour. I have some nice gold crest centercaps in my other set of rims that these will inherit too. I'd really like to send up with a set of 18" 3 piece RS rims on it at some stage. I dont think i'll go messing with the factory rims since they do go pretty good with the colour anyway.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Absolutely awesome Ian. starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel yet??
MickH ·
You need your number plates to be "SUBTLE"...like in as subtle as a brick.....nothing stelth about it!! Awsome job!!!!
reub ·
2443TT wrote:I employed a friend that is a spray painter/panel beater nearly the the past 3 weeks. Then we rented a booth from a local panel shop that my mate new well. We had to supply all our own materials and do all the labour. The shop supplied air, light and the booth for $200. Its a good way of doing it if you can find the time to do all the hard work yourself. The amount of errands ive run this past week is nuts. Ive driven an extra 100km in round town traffic just going out collecting small items. Might not sound like much but I actually live about 5 minutes from evey place I went in the middle of the industrial area.
For the moment the rims will remain factory colour. I have some nice gold crest centercaps in my other set of rims that these will inherit too. I'd really like to send up with a set of 18" 3 piece RS rims on it at some stage. I dont think i'll go messing with the factory rims since they do go pretty good with the colour anyway.
😂 that sounds very familiar dude...
humpty ·
reub-revhead wrote:
2443TT wrote:I employed a friend that is a spray painter/panel beater nearly the the past 3 weeks. Then we rented a booth from a local panel shop that my mate new well. We had to supply all our own materials and do all the labour. The shop supplied air, light and the booth for $200. Its a good way of doing it if you can find the time to do all the hard work yourself. The amount of errands ive run this past week is nuts. Ive driven an extra 100km in round town traffic just going out collecting small items. Might not sound like much but I actually live about 5 minutes from evey place I went in the middle of the industrial area.
For the moment the rims will remain factory colour. I have some nice gold crest centercaps in my other set of rims that these will inherit too. I'd really like to send up with a set of 18" 3 piece RS rims on it at some stage. I dont think i'll go messing with the factory rims since they do go pretty good with the colour anyway.
😂 that sounds very familiar dude...
Oh yeah.... You'd know all about that hey Reub? 😂
SLAPPA ·
Looks good Ian.... have to come around & see it when i get back home..
Golde60 ·
that thing is gonna look scary in the rear vision mirror
can t wait to see it with the guards on
dont change those wheels, I reckon they contrast the paint really well. great choice of colour by the way. I reckon it will look much better in the flesh, but looks pretty special from here....
2443TT ·
Hi all, progress update time.
The last of the panel work was completed early this week along with the 2lt of tectol rust proofing that was sprayed inside every gap to prevent any future rust. Inside the new firewall and engine bay is now all flat black, as is in behind the gril under the rear window.
This afternoon I started on the final assembly of the car. Slow progress so far, but the body is now firmly bolted to the chassis. Steering is 1/2 in and the suspension is now back together properly.
Tomorrow is the dash, interior and i'll probably be finishing the floor pan sections but will see how it goes.
Cheers,
Ian
555bug ·
mental 🙂
VWFREAK ·
Crazy, but in a good way. 👍
2443TT ·
Hi all,
Didnt make a lot of progress today. I spent most of the day trying to locate the necessary parts to put things back together properly, but after turning my workshop upside down twice im familiar with where most of the parts are again.
So the dashboard is now rewired and installed again. I was a little worried the ultralite gauges wouldnt match the dark colour but they match better to the atlas grey than they did to the arctic silver. Seems i am going to have to move the gear shift back a little at some stage though as 1st gear nearly makes contact with the ash tray knob.
Anyway, here are the pics.
Cheers,
Ian
kroozzn63 ·
fark thats gunna stick on the road like a mozzy ona blood clot, hope you got your engineers cert wow
2443TT ·
Yep all the engineering certification is done. 3 plates with 12 codes from memory. The car is still registered too which is helpful because most workshops would have a heart attack if i asked them for a RWC for it.
humpty ·
God I love that shifter... So close Ian, so damn close.... The Shoptalk/German Look gang would getting a little wet over this surely?
Flintstones ·
That shifter setup is just so hard core!! love it😎
Cheers
D
2443TT ·
Indeed it is a nice shifter but it is a dam pain in the ass to adjust properly. Today I moved it back about 3 inches so its in the correct position now for driving (it was hard to get that close to right when the body was off the pan).
I also had to shorten the reverse lockout spring in the 930 gearbox about 15mm so that I could actually select reverse gear. As the throw of the shifter is reduced so much it was amplifying the lockout effect so much that the universals would slip on the gear selector shaft. Door striker plates and latches are on the car now too as are the templates for the floor pan sections. I'll be making up the last bits of carbon for the floor tomorrow afternoon.
I couldnt go any further with assembly just yet as I want my panel beater to come back and polish the doors and boot lid before I finish the final assembly of them. Im getting very close to needing an engine now, as i'll be needing to mount radiators and all the plumbing next so engine assembly is definatly on for next weekend.
Cheers,
Ian
JVLRacing ·
thank fuk you cleaned your floor before rollin your car back in!😂.....luv the gear selector too.JVL
2443TT ·
humpty wrote:God I love that shifter... So close Ian, so damn close.... The Shoptalk/German Look gang would getting a little wet over this surely?
Im not posting pics on shoptalk or german look... Last time I went there it seemed the forums were dead. I might post the engine build on STF though as a few people ive been dealing with in the US have expressed interest in the engine and my plans.
JVLRacing wrote:thank fuk you cleaned your floor before rollin your car back in!😂.....luv the gear selector too.JVL
The floor of the workshop has been very clean since the last of the prep work, followed by the interior spray work being done there when the floor was wet down.
I have to admit that it is cool to be able to lie on my back under the car and tighten an overhead bolt without having crap fall in my eyes. Everything is so spotless.
Ha! And that would be my 700th post! I am now an "Insano Dub head"... yep thats right 🤪
JVLRacing ·
😂goodman! cant handled dirty sheds and congrats
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Ian looking sensational!!
humpty ·
The forced induction forum on STF is getting a little action but GL is well and truly dead... Shame really... But the GL dudes on STF are doing ok.... But you machine is in another league... Kinda like that mid engined Audi V8 powered Bug... But wider!😉
063bug ·
....following this thread like I'm transfixed... amazed by what your doing, how you've done it and how much detail your putting on the forum... love your work.
wibble ·
Geez dude haven't you finished yet? 😂 Lookin good hey...
2443TT ·
HA HA.. no not quite... And so much for the doing the engine build this weekend. Im working instead. Fingers crossed i'll finish mid-day saturday, and if thats the case i'll be starting on the bottom end saturday afternoon/evening.
My panel guy has wet sanded around all the window frames and polished them this week, so that when the glass is installed the rubbers wont be damaged by polishing when the whole car is wet rubbed and polished. Other than that there hasnt been any major progress with the project. Unfortunatly I have to go to work and earn some money sometimes...
Cheers,
Ian
mactaylor ·
great stuff ian looks like you will be on the road soon, i think lenny with the vl up there needs an aircooled lesson!!!
Dasdubber ·
Its looking absolutely fantastic Ian - a real credit to you. Can't wait to see it completed!
2443TT ·
Hi Guys,
Time for another update. The car is getting a final block back with 1200+2000 and a polish now. The first step is using a hard aluminium block with 1200 to remove any high spots or debris in the paints surface. Then the 1200 marks are removed with the 2000.
The results are nothing short of amazing and are pretty hard to photograph.
Rubbed with 2000
Polished
Photo with flash
Photo with no flash
Like a mirror that disappears into darkness.
And the polish system being used. PPG.
On the engine front, I am waiting on one final part. A hall effect sensor that will be mounted through the front of the engine block, that will take trigger references from the cam drive gear. The engine will be distirbutorless, using multi-coil ignition.
The last of the modifications to the cylinder heads will be done this weekend too. They are modified CNC ported competition eliminators, 48x40 with a litte extra port work done and modified for water cooling. I'll post some pics as the last of the welding is being done.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
SENSATIONAL!!!
volkdent ·
Wow, just wow...
vassy66T1 ·
Paint job looks hot as!!!!!
Stellar job. 😎
Golde60 ·
awesome
looking forward to seeing it done
JVLRacing ·
hi allan! m8 how many coates of clear was put on the car?.....really impressed with that job m8..😎
2443TT ·
I believe there is two base coats (first to cover and colour, the second as a dusted on coat to make the metalic stand out) and 2 clear coats, but he my painter said he put the clear on pretty heavy too.
The standox clear aparently goes on considerably thicker than most other clear coats. He did tell me how thick it was approximatly in microns but i cant remember exactly. I think its something like 100-120 total (60 microns per coat). Thinner cheap ass clear coats would be more like 30-40 microns per coat. He also said that cheap clears dont polish up as nicely as the standox does too.
JVLRacing ·
2443TT wrote:I believe there is two base coats (first to cover and colour, the second as a dusted on coat to make the metalic stand out) and 2 clear coats, but he my painter said he put the clear on pretty heavy too.
The standox clear aparently goes on considerably thicker than most other clear coats. He did tell me how thick it was approximatly in microns but i cant remember exactly. I think its something like 100-120 total (60 microns per coat). Thinner cheap ass clear coats would be more like 30-40 microns per coat. He also said that cheap clears dont polish up as nicely as the standox does too.
thanks for that...as a detailer and seeing alot of crappy clear coats but that looks yummy after a rub with 1200 then 2000
2443TT ·
JVLRacing wrote:
2443TT wrote:I believe there is two base coats (first to cover and colour, the second as a dusted on coat to make the metalic stand out) and 2 clear coats, but he my painter said he put the clear on pretty heavy too.
The standox clear aparently goes on considerably thicker than most other clear coats. He did tell me how thick it was approximatly in microns but i cant remember exactly. I think its something like 100-120 total (60 microns per coat). Thinner cheap ass clear coats would be more like 30-40 microns per coat. He also said that cheap clears dont polish up as nicely as the standox does too.
thanks for that...as a detailer and seeing alot of crappy clear coats but that looks yummy after a rub with 1200 then 2000
Indeed. Though I dont think it would have been possible to do at all if the panels werent first made as flat as they are. It really is all in the preporation as they say. Blocking and polishing a car thats not flat would be dangerous to do I think. Imaging going through the clear and base coats to primer by mistake... no thanks!
I remember getting a phone call from the people that did the previous panel work before they painted it arctic silver saying how proud they were of how flat the car was, and that they really didnt want me to paint it white, like I was considering at the time. They wanted me to choose a dark colour, and I can only imagine how bumpy it would have looked if i'd said atlas grey to them.
The rear 1/4 panel high spots would have looked like little hills magnafied by the clear.
JVLRacing ·
2443TT wrote:
JVLRacing wrote:
2443TT wrote:I believe there is two base coats (first to cover and colour, the second as a dusted on coat to make the metalic stand out) and 2 clear coats, but he my painter said he put the clear on pretty heavy too.
The standox clear aparently goes on considerably thicker than most other clear coats. He did tell me how thick it was approximatly in microns but i cant remember exactly. I think its something like 100-120 total (60 microns per coat). Thinner cheap ass clear coats would be more like 30-40 microns per coat. He also said that cheap clears dont polish up as nicely as the standox does too.
thanks for that...as a detailer and seeing alot of crappy clear coats but that looks yummy after a rub with 1200 then 2000
Indeed. Though I dont think it would have been possible to do at all if the panels werent first made as flat as they are. It really is all in the preporation as they say. Blocking and polishing a car thats not flat would be dangerous to do I think. Imaging going through the clear and base coats to primer by mistake... no thanks!
I remember getting a phone call from the people that did the previous panel work before they painted it arctic silver saying how proud they were of how flat the car was, and that they really didnt want me to paint it white, like I was considering at the time. They wanted me to choose a dark colour, and I can only imagine how bumpy it would have looked if i'd said atlas grey to them.
The rear 1/4 panel high spots would have looked like little hills magnafied by the clear.
yeh touch wood, metal i havnt rubbed that hard😂.....now i dont risk it due to some poor workmanship!😎your prep ..great stuff
VWCOOL ·
yep looks like an awesome job... and I'm glad to see Bundy Bear helped out 😂
2443TT ·
Yep the bundy bear was there. I think he is in the pics in the booth wearing the same shirt too. So long as its in a silver bottle he drinks it...
Dasdubber ·
Very nice Ian, paint looks superb!
wibble ·
Nice...sooooo nice.... For those that have only seen pics, they just cannot possibly do this thing justice.... Dude, you should take it to the summernats while its fresh and kick arse, or better yet take me for another drive n scare the crap out of me... haha.. So do you get an award for being the most popular post????
063bug ·
....your project is inspirational..... thanks for the regular updates and photos
1303Steve ·
Hi
Truly sensational. I've just changed ISPs so I had to wait until my ADSL running to view this thread.
BTW German Look is moving servers, should be back soon.
Steve
2443TT ·
Thanks for the feedback everyone. Im kind of stunned myself as to how well its looking. I wasnt planning on taking it this far. Its not meant to be a show pony. I just wanted it to look tidy and clean but once something starts....
Today the luggage lid was done and the passenger side was completed. The roof and mirrors are being done tomorrow so I can start to assemble things again. Mirrors have to go on before the single piece glass can be re-installed. My -12 weld on fitting still arent here and its been a week since I ordered them! Unless they arrive tomorow I cant get the welding on the heads finished.
The couriers managed to lose one of my parcels from CIP1 as well... Not engine parts though, new gas struts for the luggage compartment.
Cam ·
Come on Ian, get the guards on! I need a new desktop background 😀
Type3Sicko ·
Clean and tidy!!! Understatement of the year.....that's PORNOGRAPHIC! Top stuff and testament to the fact that a top notch paint job is in the preparation. very inspiring 🙂
2443TT ·
Cam wrote:Come on Ian, get the guards on! I need a new desktop background 😀
Yeah I know... Its like being teased by your girlfriend if you follow me... Its going to be a month before the guards go back on though.
Its all fabrication from here on in though. Ive removed the rear apron so engine installation is easy, and covered up the car with a few sheets to keep the dust away.
kombinationdetailing wrote:Clean and tidy!!! Understatement of the year.....that's PORNOGRAPHIC! Top stuff and testament to the fact that a top notch paint job is in the preparation. very inspiring 🙂
Thanks again for the feedback too guys.
So today the polishing was finishied. There is just a few spots in tight corners that will be completed when my mate gets a new small buff wheel. These spots will probably be completed when the guards are back on the car.
The roof of the car came up as well as the rest did, like a mirror. Sorry for the out of focus pic though.. I need a new camera.
And one from a distance. Still looks black in the shade.
So for those that have been waiting, I should have some tastey engine part pictures tomorrow. Everything is ready and my tig welding genius friend is lined up to start at 10am tomorrow.
Cheers,
Ian
dangerous ·
Looking forward to the engine Ian!
2443TT ·
Hi Guys,
Well one of the cylinder heads is finished now. All that remains is pressure testing the water cooling jackets which I'll do tomorrow probably. Here is the process.
Basicly what the goals here is is to make a competition eliminator head street drivable, and also allow it to handle making big power for longer periods of time than the air cooling allows. If it allowed the porsche 935 race cars to make 700hp in the 70's it should hopefully work for me if i through even more money and technology at it.
So, starting with a competition eliminator head. 48x40, cnc ported.
I cut the air cooled fins off. (I removed the second one down, though its still in this old pic)
Worked out where the water fittings for supply and return needed to go, and put a divider in the middle (between the pushrod tubes) to split water flow through the return fitting.
Then the water jackets were welded on. Sorry I missed a few steps there. Once the head is pre-heated all the welding and bending of the jackets has to be done when its hot, so no time for camera. Basiclly its a lot of aneeling the jacket sheet metal, bending and banging with a piece of wood, tacking etc till its all in place.
Here you see a shot of the water inlet dividor port. A -12 speedflow fitting is sat squarely on the dividor and welded in place so water flows both sides of the head.
Closeup of the welded in fitting and water dividor.
The completed head.
And a couple of pics of the slightly massaged exhaust ports.
And the intake ports.
The second head will be done mid next week and next weekend. Ive ran out of argon so thats put the brakes on this weekends activities. Might start making more carbon fiber floor parts instead.
Cheers,
Ian
humpty ·
😵💫
Golde60 ·
wowowowowowowowow
this is really taking everything to the next level
thanks for sharing it all on the web, this is great to watch
vassy66T1 ·
Cool!! Always thought water cooled heads would be an interesting proposition.
Did Scat do water cooled heads at any stage?
I knew I guy racing sprints back in the '90's (speedway) that reckoned there was.
hellbugged ·
so very very nice!........
5th, 6th? head studs coming Ian.........mad if you don't.
pete wood ·
great idea, I know porsche did the same on the 959. What are you using for a water pump?
2443TT ·
I dont know about scat doing water cooled heads, but i have seen there is some company making a set that is meant for light aircraft use. I dont think many have used them on the street as of yet though. There are some references to them on shoptalk forums and the samba.
Here is some of the material I came up with while researching this modification.
An old article on converting air cooled heads.
And a set of CE heads done by a US company called the fab shop.. liberated from the samba.
5th studding would be possible on the top of the engine but the 6th stud on the under side would be pretty tricky. I think its a lot easier to do when your using autocraft heads. For the moment im going to be using a set of raceware head studs that will torque to 28ft-lb. Its easier to upgrade to a 12mm stud than it is to fit a 6th stud to the water cooled head. The material that would support the 6th stud on the underside of the head is partially removed to allow water flow. When you have a look at the air cooled fins and how they wrap around the pushrod tubes you'll see what I mean. The water galery on the under side of the head is about 3-4mm deep and has to be so the head isnt touching the pushrod tubes.
As for water pumps i'll probably use a davies craig pump or two. Plumbing is still a fair way off being started.
trickysimon ·
Are your still going to be using a shroud and fan?
Simon
2443TT ·
trickysimon wrote:Are your still going to be using a shroud and fan?
Simon
Yes but geared down a little. I'll probably be experimenting with drive ratios a little once I work out what its going to need to cool properly. One of the above articles mentions running without a shroud entirely so I suppose its possible, but i doubt they were testing their engines with the kind of boost and rpm im planing on using as well.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Not to mention the North Queensland temperatures and humidity!!
Flintstones ·
Ian, I'm surprised that you removed the entire cooling fins and not leave at least half the fin height, to allow the water get in between and allow a quicker heat exchange to happen.
Could this have been done, or was there no option but to remove them entirely?
I've not done a watercooled conversion before so this is a bit of a learning curve for me.
The darker colour looks so nice by the way 👍👍
Cheers
Dino
2443TT ·
Yes in hind sight i should have left more cooling fin area around the tops and sides of the heads, just cut them down to 1/2 the height so there was more surface area. But I didnt think of that till after i'd already started modifying them. Keeping air cooling working over the outside of the heads should hopefully make up the diference. I'll be monitoring the temps of each head so time will tell i guess.
I figure that in a "conventional" water cooled car they dont have extra fins around combustion chambers or around the cylinders in the block (unless they are sleaved and have extra fins), so provided I keep the water at the desired temp I should be able to keep the heads at the temp I want to run them at too.
dangerous ·
vassy66T1 wrote:Cool!! Always thought water cooled heads would be an interesting proposition.
Did Scat do water cooled heads at any stage?
I knew I guy racing sprints back in the '90's (speedway) that reckoned there was.
In the late '70s Scat did a whole water cooled version of their "killer" engine.
(featured in Hot VW's Mag)
The R&D proved it was worth while,
but just as soon as it went into production,
the USAC group that sanctioned the speedway midgets in the USA(their target market),
changed the 'capacity limits' if the engine was water cooled,
thus cancelling out the benefit, and proposed market.
There were still quite a few off road customers that were very happy,
but I think once you go water cooled in those games, there may be more economical options.
Not sure what became of the project,
but when I first saw VW's version of the water cooled flat four around 1982,
I was surprised how similar it was
Now, back to our regular programming...
2443TT ·
Werent they a V4 based on 1/2 of some chev v8? I recall seeing the pics in my old hot vw magazing collection.
pete wood ·
Might I suggest that you may actually be able to use an electric fan with a speed controller to make the most of it. That way, you only need to use it when the motor is really hot. There are a few guys now heading for this option to cut down on the constant power loss you get with a belt driven fan. Porsche did the same on all of their competition engines during the 70s, even the 1500hp twin turbo canam car featured this. It also makes the motor more compact as you can mount the fan flat on top of the motor like Westy has done with his car.
BTW, great build up. As per usual you are raising the bar way above normally high AVD standards. 👍
dangerous ·
2443TT wrote:Werent they a V4 based on 1/2 of some chev v8? I recall seeing the pics in my old hot vw magazing collection.
The V4 was a much later project.
I have put some pics here to save cluttering your topic:
2443TT wrote:Werent they a V4 based on 1/2 of some chev v8? I recall seeing the pics in my old hot vw magazing collection.
They use those half cut down motors for speedcars....Fontana motors i think they were called
Super1302 ·
John at the veedub centre in Perth had a go at doing watercooled heads and ran it with a turbo. that was the 90's. Not sure what happened there after, i just new as i seen them sitting about after trialling.
hope your's goes good as it looks the goods and more.
top effort.
HGFS ·
pete wood wrote:Might I suggest that you may actually be able to use an electric fan with a speed controller to make the most of it. That way, you only need to use it when the motor is really hot. There are a few guys now heading for this option to cut down on the constant power loss you get with a belt driven fan. Porsche did the same on all of their competition engines during the 70s, even the 1500hp twin turbo canam car featured this. It also makes the motor more compact as you can mount the fan flat on top of the motor like Westy has done with his car.
BTW, great build up. As per usual you are raising the bar way above normally high AVD standards. 👍
Pete I've been wondering about using an electric fan in my car to save on the power loss. I'd like to keep the OG fan housing though, do you know of any centrif fans ie the same config as OG that would work?
BTW Ian, looks great, now you're at the interesting part of the build!! I'm guessing the engine bay and underside of the car will be pretty cramped, twin turbo's water cooling etc.
But no doubt you have it well planned
Cheers
Greg
STOCK ·
THE ELECTRIC FAN SET UP ON THE JUNKA
WORKS AWSOME , NEVER GETS HOT
FREES UP HEAPS OF ENGINE AREA FOR OTHER
SHIT .
SPEAK TO WESTI HE CAN SORT YA OUT IF NEEDED
pete wood ·
you could find a 12v motor to drive it, but I'd suggest going to a flat fan instead. more compact, easier to find and takes up a lot less room. The only thing to consider I reckon (and I have to say I haven't done this) is the amount of extra OIL cooling you would need as it negates the factory oil cooler.
Stock, what does westi do to replace the stock cooler?
HGFS ·
Yeah I've seen Westi's setup and it looks cool but a lot of fab which I'm not really up for.
Plus I kind of like the stock look but without the power loss. 10Hp or so is better spent at the wheels than driving a fan...
There are those centrif setups with the small fan scroll that blow straight into the cyl head tin, again not quite factory look, but adapting the motor from one of them to the factory fan might be possible.
STOCK ·
THE FAN OVER THE ENGINE RUNS CONSTANT
THERE IS THEN AN EXTERNAL OIL COOLER
MOUNTED ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE PAN
WITH ANOTHER THERMO FAN ON IT , WITH A THERMOSTAT
& ONLY CUTS IN IF NEEDED.
humpty ·
You see that 2Stroke has just finished his new road car and he's running water cooled heads too!....
Seems very happy with the results so far....
2443TT ·
humpty wrote:You see that 2Stroke has just finished his new road car and he's running water cooled heads too!....
Seems very happy with the results so far....
And the link to that is....?
I made a little more progress with the car mid week. Nothing engine related though. The other head is being welded up tomorrow. Still waiting on a data sheet for a sensor that I want to use for the cam position sensor from Motec. Finding data on sensor operating temp ranges shouldnt be this hard.
Yesterday and today i re-fitted the single piece windows and power window lift setups with all new window felt channels and scrapers.
Ive also started on the floor pan panels again which I should hopefully have finished over the weekend. More pics soon.
Got the 2nd head water jacketed today too so the only hold up now is trying to locate a suitable sensor for camshaft position. Im still waiting on a sensor data sheet from Motec or Wolf.
Here are the pics of the second head.
Thats it for VW stuff for the weekend now though. Im playing GTR's for the rest of the weekend, changing suspension and finishing a re-tune because next weekend is a motorkarna event.
Cheers,
Ian
SLAPPA ·
Come on Bug-man more pic's of the car Ian
SLAPPA
2443TT ·
Afraid I havent made a great deal of progess in recent weeks. 2 weekends ago I entered my GTR in a motorkarna which was an all day event, and last weekend was work all weekend except for a litle vw play on the sunday.
Ive done a little more work on my floor pan sections and have finished my camshaft sensor assembly. Im using a BMW camshaft sensor mounted in a carrier that fits inside a hollowed out oil pump housing. Ive used the oil pump housing to set the depth of the sensor inside the case and to seal off the oil galleries. The camshaft has one of the bolts replaced with a stud that is a little longer so it will trigger the reluctor sensor. The EFI system going to be running a sync/reference trigger system to allow full sequential and direct fire distributorless ignition. Where the distributor was will be a belt driven 4 stage dry sump pump.
Pump housing fitted. Ive also got all the oil fittings and plugs worked out now too.
And this is more or less what it looks like. The sensor is o-ring sealed to the insert and uses 2 standard oil pump gaskets between everything else.
Ive pressure tested the heads after having the water galleries done and was pissed off to discover that what little remain of the cooling fins around the plug hole side of the heads leaks air badly because of porosity in the material. Ive had this issue fixed on one of the heads but like the porosity issue with my auto-linea case, its left me feeling pretty unhappy with the results. I am going to use the heads on a diferent engine now so they wont go to waste and am getting something better for my 2443.
For my oxy boxer ive now got a pair of custom heads being made by DRD racing heads. There is a few months waiting for them to be made but they are purpose built for my application. Made from a blank angle flow casting, water jacketed, 44x44 valves, cnc porting, etc...
The good news is Im breaking out the micrometers this weekend. I will be assmebling the engine up to a stage where its ready for heads.
I will be finishing the floor of the chassis off very soon as well, though I did find another opps.. requireing a little more welding where the roll cage bolts to the chassis, so thats another project for the weekend.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
So its been a while since ive posted an update. It seems when I plan to not work so I can play with cars, i end up having to work the whole weekend. So with that in mind I planned for nothing and then just spent the weekend in my workshop.
At last the final assembly of the engine is underway. So far ive got the engine to short block stage which I am happy with as far as progress goes. Everything went smoothly which is no surprise considering I had trial assembled the bottom end twice before hand. So here are the pics...
Revmaster 88mm flanged chromoly crank, chevy big ends, t4 center main, and CB 5.7" h-beams. Cleaned and ready for assembly.
With Carrillo SPS CARR bolts. Amazing bolts these, using stretch torque method they torqued to 45ft-lb to achieve a 0.005" tension. Amazing for a 5/16th bolt.
Botton end done and torqued to spec.
Aircooled.net SLR welded hardenerd/resurfaced lifters with the oil hole.
Bottom end all in the case. No oil slinger on the crank either, as the case runs a front oil seal. Both seals are installed as the case 1/2s go together.
The cam has a stud used as 1 of the three bolts that hold the cam gear on the camshaft. It extends out a little further than the normal allen head bolts to function as the reference point for the EFI. The camshaft itself is a web 226 grind with 112 lobe centers, with the hardweld option and extra clearencing sourced from aircooled.net again. Its around 285 degree at 0.050", and around 0.530" at the valive with 1.3:1 rockers.
And all together at last. The 12mm raceware main studs in the case go to 46ft-lb as well. All the extra oil fittings are in the case ready for the dry sump system, which is next weeks project.
Juicy.
Thanks for your help Dave. Using bolt stretch took a little longer, but I profiled the stretch of the bolts at various torque specs and now know how much longer they get at various torque settings. Interesting seeing the results.
looks great, does make you wonder though going from a watercooled to an aircooled then back to a watercooled are you sure your not a girl with these mind changing habits?😀😀😀
2443TT ·
The diference between me changing my mind and a woman is that there is some logic to what I am doing... 😂
Well here is today's progress. Ive created the pully mounts for the gilmer drive for the external oil pump. I dont get to use my lathe a lot but im really enjoying making this stuff.
The bugpack hub system pully
With the pully bolted on
I got a 80x12mm chunk of alloy cut from the propeller drive shaft of some boat.
I then machined up some pully supports that fit inside the front of the crank pully to locate it centrally.
And also to clear the 6 bolts on the pully.
So it fits snugly on the end of the crank, flush with the pully.
And here it is finished. With the outer pully spacer machined to accept a standard steel crank pully washer
Working on the body again tomorrow, fitting glass, and plastic rear windows with naca air intakes in the glass.
Cheers,
Ian
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Awesome work Ian. Looking good!!
Beetspeed ·
Extremely nice machine work and then to know you made it yourself!
Out of interest: are you only using the stock center large bolt to hold the toothed pulley into position or is the toothed pulley also attached in some way to the 6 bolts of the generator pulley?
Thanks,
Walter
Sides ·
2443TT wrote:... fitting glass, and plastic rear windows with naca air intakes in the glass.
I've been thinking about for a while so I'm curious on your plastic windows... what spec are you going with, and are they something that's normally OK for rego or do you need an engineer sign-off ???
2443TT ·
Beetspeed wrote:Extremely nice machine work and then to know you made it yourself!
Out of interest: are you only using the stock center large bolt to hold the toothed pulley into position or is the toothed pulley also attached in some way to the 6 bolts of the generator pulley?
Thanks,
Walter
Thanks. The gilmer gear has two dowel pins in it that will have steel dowels inserted that lock the gear from spinning when it is attached to the adapter that locates the gear to the bugpack pully. Im going to have a machine shop take care of that part for me, its got to be very accurate and you only get one chance to get it right. I try to stick to machining work that I am capable of.
Sides wrote:
2443TT wrote:... fitting glass, and plastic rear windows with naca air intakes in the glass.
I've been thinking about for a while so I'm curious on your plastic windows... what spec are you going with, and are they something that's normally OK for rego or do you need an engineer sign-off ???
According to QLD modification rules, all windows forward from the B pillar must be safety or factory laminated glass, but the ones behind can be plastic. So im using 5 or 6mm plexiglass. I only got to finish one yesterday, and ran out of nut-certs that im using to attach the naca scoop to the glass. I'll post a pic once ive got one finished and installed in the car.
pete wood ·
lovely work on the lathe mate, but don't you think you should use a bolt to hold it on instead of the masking tape? 😉
but seriously, this is so hardcore. are you gonna run it in motorkhanas and stuff when it's finished? 👍
Sides ·
2443TT wrote:According to QLD modification rules, all windows forward from the B pillar must be safety or factory laminated glass, but the ones behind can be plastic. So im using 5 or 6mm plexiglass. I only got to finish one yesterday, and ran out of nut-certs that im using to attach the naca scoop to the glass. I'll post a pic once ive got one finished and installed in the car.
OK, cool - cheers Ian.
With the ultra wide guards, big rims and fat rubber, Naca ducts in the side windows... man it's going to be a tough lookin Beetle !!!
👍
2443TT ·
pete wood wrote:lovely work on the lathe mate, but don't you think you should use a bolt to hold it on instead of the masking tape? 😉
but seriously, this is so hardcore. are you gonna run it in motorkhanas and stuff when it's finished? 👍
Thanks for the feedback on my machine work. Not bad for a guy that operates a computer keyboard for a living hey.
Yes motorkarna is the main goal. There is no drag strip in Cairns and the nearest strip is townsville, an 8 hr return drive. They used to have an 1/8 mile track that was a 2hr return trip away, but the local car "enthusiests" bitched and moaned about the facilities so much that the organisers couldnt be bothered organising future events. As usual a minority of idiots wreck it for the rest of us. Motorkarna events are becoming increasingly popular though, and it appears that a major go-cart track up here (www.makotrac.com) will also be opening up for motorkarna/time trials soon too. Last month I was able to enter my other car in it and it was a blast.
I decided to have a go putting the dowel's in my dry sump gear setup today. It was a lot easier than I had imagined. I just made a dowel insert sharpened to a point to mark the first drill hole. Drilled it, doweled it and then marked the opposite side. Easy as.
Its got a real bolt holding it all together now too(no tape). There is still a steel washer under the head of the bolt so it wont eat into the alloy when its tightened.
I 1/2 finished the mount for the dry sump pump today too. Will post pics when I get a chance to finish it properly.
Cheers,
Ian
oval TOFU ·
Hi Ian
I'm a long-time buildup stalker, first-time post-er.. you've done an astounding job here - something you should be hella proud of! In regards to the water-cooled heads, I'm just curious as you why you didn't leave the cooling fins intact, or at the most just grind some of it down for clearence of the jacket? Wouldn't the water through the fins provide more surface area for the heat to dissapate?
Cheers
Chris
2443TT ·
Your totally correct Chris. Unfortunatly there was nobody volunteering that information before I started on the process. I was hounding Marty Stags for months for a few details but in the end just had to jump in with both feed and do it.
The CB heads will still be fine for a lowish performance turbo engine (300hp or so), but for a all out drag engine the extra fins are definatly needed. Ive got enough left over parts from other engines to build a turbo 1916 that will make around 300hp or so as a backup engine. Thats what the CB heads will go onto(once i get the porosity air leaks fixed that is).
2443TT ·
Finally I have managed to get one of the dam window naca scoops installed. So far I've had 2 sets of windows cut from diferent types of plastic so far. The first lot the plastic had flaws in, and the second lot split the moment you try and drill a hole in it. This window is actually made from a spare piece I had in storage from 3 years ago when I last put a scoop in a window. I just hope I can find another piece of this stuff somewhere.
At least it looks 1/2 decent.
modulus ·
Hi Ian,
1. The plastic most commonly used for such window panels is "Lexan" polycarbonate, precisely because it can be readily worked without splitting.
2. I haven't done the math, but I'm not convinced at face value that leaving the fins on air-cooled heads when water-jacketing them would improve heat flow. Thermodynamics is complicated, but my gut feel is that getting your water flow rate right is going to be the key factor that determines how many KW you can cool. Ask your local university engineering faculty to model it for you; they like that sort of challenge.
hth
2443TT ·
Your right. The window picture was polycarbonate material. The other window material provided came from the same plastics shop but the branding was diferent. The first batch with flaws in the plastic was definatly polycarbonate as it drilled just fine. The second batch was much nicer plastic, but is nearly brittle so its not suitable at all which is why it split when it was drilled. Its great finding out these things after you pay for it...
Perhaps water cooling is a gamble to a degree, but I am convinced that provided I use an external thermostat and can get adequite airflow to the radiators it will work. Water flow is pretty irelivent. Faster water temps just mean more even temps throughout the entire cooling system. Regulation of flow too radiators via thermostats, and most importantly not re-circulating hot air around the radiator. This is true for air or water cooled. VW's without the rubber seal between the body and rear tinware dont last too long in summer up here.
Radiators must have a clear path to draw cool air from, or exhaust hot air away through or they just dont work. I learnt that from playing with nissans. The foam seals around the radiator shroud can lower engine temps 10-15 degrees if your stuck stationary in traffic in 30+ degree heat with the aircon blasting.
modulus ·
2443TT wrote:Perhaps water cooling is a gamble to a degree
No, I think you're on *exactly* the right track using water cooling for a high KW motor; it will also give you better temperature regulation = longer life. My only point was that I'm not convinced that leaving the fins on would help; it might even hinder.
Very cool project.
2443TT ·
Ah... I understand you now. Aparently Marty Stags leaves them on, but trims them down to a few mm just inside the jacket. I found out that litle detail after i'd already milled mine off.
I trust the guys at DRD know their stuff just as well if not better. So my new angle flow's will be a work of art but will more importantly actually work and not leak.
Marko ·
This is good extra cooling tips for Oxyboxer. Oilspray to pistons.
Beetspeed ·
Marko wrote:This is good extra cooling tips for Oxyboxer. Oilspray to pistons.
Not just for oxyboxers ;-)
For all turbo engines where pistons may get hotter than usual its a good idea. Porsche turbo engines had even bigger jets than the n/a ones. So I got the porsche turbo ones on mine 😎
Marko ·
Yes, mine Oxy's jets are from Porche.
2443TT ·
I considered piston squirters but went with the coatings option instead. Ceramic crowns for heat, and had the skirts done in teflon. Im using oil squirters in the rocker covers though for valve spring cooling and aiding rocker arm lubrication.
Piston squirters in the nissan engines dont come into play until oil pressure exceeds a certain pressure as they have a check valve in them. When people do the 3lt conversions into GTR's some fit RB26 piston squrters, but most opt for coatings as its easier and we a well proven technology now. Ive seen non squirted/coated 3lt bottom ends hold 625rwhp on pump fuel no problems.
Oil squirters while cooling pistons beter will actualy raise the overall oil temps as the hot spots on the pistons are eliminated (or reduced at least), and more heat is conducted away into the rest of the oil system. This means the oil coolers need to be able to cope with the additional heat. Coatings mean the component never absorbs as much combustion heat in the first place, so no need for the squirters.
Thanks for the idea though.
Ive made a little more progress with the build and havent had a chance to post pics due to christmas/new years functions etc. The carbon fibre floor sheets are now screwed to the chassis. Ive plated the outer edge with 12x3mm flat bar for a little extra support/strength, and will be gluing them in with sikaflex when i am 100% happy with the result. Still have to fit the pedal assembly and dril a few more holes. Ive also finished the mount for the external 4 stage dry sump oil pump on the engine, though are waiting on drive belt so I can sort out weather it will need a tensioner/idler or not.
Thats all for now.
Cheers,
Ian
1303Steve ·
Hi
This project is one of favourite post in this forum, cant wait to see it finished.
I used to work at VW tuning shop that fitted a lot of SPG roller cranks into VW motors, they developed a squirter to lubricate the con rod bearings instead of relying on the usual cut-outs in the main bearings that SPG recommended.
The squirters were fed from the cam follower gallery and used 40mm DCN Webber main jets as the actual squirter, as well as lubricating the big ends the squirted the pistons as well.
Steve
Marko ·
Ok, good job Ian. Did you see that
Wasser case and 850hp and 1100nm
2443TT ·
Indeed. Its inspirational. I like how he babies it off the line and then it powers into a wheelstand. Thats serious torque. Do you have a build thread on the go here Marko, or was that an old pic from your engine during the assembly phase?
Marko ·
Ian, i open own thread later. Engine is long block now and i have to find some car for that 🙂
Mine is atmo 86x101,6 and i need some throttle bodies, motec and lot's of jobs.
You way it's too hard for me. I'm not understand anything for Turbos's maybe later ia have to study that.
Good and hard job's you car.
063bug ·
.... I'm patiently waiting to see the new CFfloor panels and those huge wings installed..... no rush, just waiting for my AVD xmas present from 2443TT 🙂
2443TT ·
Well since you asked... Truthfully ive been busy with friends and family the past week, and while it seems that 3/4 of Cairns is closed for the new years week just enough of my clients are trading that I cant spend all day playing with vw's.
Here is the floor pan panels. They are 5 layer carbon/fiberglass sheets (3 carbon, 2 glass). The thickness is about 2.5mm but they are light and strong as hell. The front sections supported my weight as I lay on top of them drilling the mounting holes near the firewall end. The panels are yet to be sikaflexed into place but for the moment are held in with 12x3mm flat bar alloy and stainless bolts with nylocks.
I had a sticker arrive in the mail today too...
Im holding off showing pics of the dry sump pump mount/setup till I get a bit more of the engine together. Basiclly i need a set of heads which dont arrive for another month or two.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
Very cool dude... nice work👍
2443TT ·
Thanks dude. Here's one more of the interior with the door linings back on.
Flintstones ·
that's such a hard core interior Ian!!!
Cheers
Dino
063bug ·
That looks so awesome..... love it and really looking forward to seeing some video of it in the future. Thanks for the update 👍
Smiley ·
Hi Ian
I found this thread at around lunchtime and have spent all afternoon reading it. The quality of your work and the way the car is turning out is a credit to your workmanship and abilities. It's so great to see someone doing instead of just talking about what they want to do. Looking forward to future updates.
Daniel
2443TT ·
Thanks Daniel. I should have some more updates soon. There is a lot of things happening all at once at the moment.
Im working on the mounts for all the engine support gear. Radiators, coolant resivour, dry sump oil tank, fuel system, finalising the engines dry sump drive system. Nothing is finished enough to show just yet though. DRD should have my new heads over to me by the end of Feburary too.
Cheers,
Ian
Smiley ·
Are you still cramming all that gear up in the front? I suppose you'll need it there to be able to steer because of the monster that's going to be in the back.
Camo ·
I had a sticker arrive in the mail today too...
Cheers,
Ian
How the hell do you get a rego sticker for a car that cant even be driven on the road yet. You Queenslander's are bloody lucky, unlike NSW where every little thing is a fight to get passed.
Again, Love ya work. Kev
.
2443TT ·
I never de-registered the car back 2+ years ago, when the project was just supposed to be a gearbox change. When things got out of control with the project I figured it would just be easier to keep the car registered than to go through the grief of explaining to a mechanic that the modifications Ive done are legal. So the car is still registered, and so long as its road worthy with the mod plates fitted its still legal. Yes we do have it a lot easier than in NSW and VIC for sure.
66deluxe ·
I've kept my bug registered through my build too, and was wondering about all the mods, now i know, thanks Ian.
Smiley ·
Hey Ian
Just thought I drop a post in and ask how the car is coming along?
SLAPPA ·
yeah come on Bug-man put some new pic's up.......
2443TT ·
Yeah not much to report. Ive got 1/2 a fuel tank mount done and 1/2 an oil tank mount done, and then i got sidetracked by having 9" of water go through my workshop 3 times in the last month because of the flooding going on up here. So the focus has been making new benches that are well above the flood line.
No damage from the flooding, though my bathroom still has a welder in it, and my entire house upstairs is still 1/2 full of boxes, tools and car parts. Bummer that Ive been too busy with work in between the flooding to really get stuck into the car. I did hear from DRD racing heads though, and my heads will be ready soon.
2443TT ·
Hi Everyone,
Long time no progress update. Over the past 2 months ive not acomplished a gread deal on the car. I have however been flooded 3 times, sold my R33 and bought a new R34 gtr, had too much work on all at once, and have been ill latelyl too. Finding time to work on the bug had been impossible, but for the past two weekends in a row now I have been able to get to tinker a little with it again.
So here is a progress update. The fuel system is more or less finished. Im using a Bosch 910 pump to start with, which from experience will max out around 500rwhp. Ive used re-usable billet filters and braided line everywhere for that bling factor, but its also good quality stuff and the size is needed to keep the flow up. Supply lines are 10mm ID and the pressure lines through the car are 3/8". The fuel tank sits a little higher (45mm) than normal because I didnt factor in teh hose fitting on the bottom of the tank not being right on top of the hydraulic clutch master cylinder, but never mind, it all worked out as it gave me a place to mount the pump and get the fuel lines through to the bottom of the tank without making holes in the body.
The fuel tank is a standard tank that has had bungs for -10 size fittings welded on, and a perferated can welded in around the pickup to serve as a built in surge tank. That combined with the sump design of the 66 tank should stop fuel surge. Its being painted metalic silver this week.
Ive been working on the fuel system and making mounts for the dry sump tank, and contemplating where the radiators are going to go. There is going to be twin PWR radiators each side at the front of the car, both for water coolant. I am still a little torn between using a water-oil heat exchanger or a conventional radiator for oil cooling. I'll be seeing how it all fits in good time though and will trial fit both.
Here are the pics:
Other news... DRD racing heads are manufacturing my heads right now. I havent been given an ETA but I think inside a month.
Cheers,
Ian
trickysimon ·
Bout time! 😀
This thing is going to be an animal!
reub ·
One word dude... SENSATIONAL!
Flintstones ·
Man that thing is W I D E ! ! ! 👍
colonel mustard ·
looks hot. estimate at what it is going to weigh?
Mick058 ·
freaken awesome
vassy66T1 ·
My favourite custom beetle by a long shot!!!
That is looking fab!
Looking forward to seeing the heads.
2443TT ·
Thanks for the feedback guys!
colonel mustard wrote:looks hot. estimate at what it is going to weigh?
Despite the steel added for the front suspension it should still be pretty light. Before the body was put on the chassis, and only the front suspension and brakes were fitted (not the wheels) I was still able to lift the front end of the chassis, so at that stage I figured the front weight was about 80kg. If the wheels were fitted though I couldnt lift it as they being 18's arent exactly light.
I am pretty sure the standard torsion bar front end of a stock 1968 beetle assembled drum to drum would be heavier. The back end is where its put on some weight. The 930 gearbox weighs as much as 2 vw transaxels I am pretty sure. Though the rest of the rear end should be lighter than stock. The side rear windows are 6mm plastic, and the rear window is 3mm plastic, so that will help a little.
Im trying to mount as much as possible in the front end of the car to try and get better weight distribution. Though the battery will be going inside the car. I just dont like the idea of putting the battery next to a fuel tank.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Looking good Ian. Are you going to run an auxillary type pump set up with swirl pot?
VWFREAK ·
Looking good Ian. 👍
2443TT ·
Im considering the davies craig electric water pumps at the moment, combined with thermostats for the oil and water cooling systems. Ive got a nice moon eyes over flow tank to use as a filler for the system, and it will work as a swirl pot as well.
Ive drawn the diagram up quite a few times now but until the car is a little more assembled I cant really finalise the setup until I start mounting components in it. So radiators and oil coolers get mounted next, then the plumbing, thermostat and pump mounting will happen.
Turbo54 ·
Ian, let me know which pump you go for. i am looking for a pump to run my cooling system. Looking great.
T54
Boostn ·
SHIT loads of work done Ian. I can't believe how much this poor little bug has changed.
I thought when it was silver you wanted to go drag racing, but it looks to me like a circuit racer with wide stance.
2443TT ·
Boostn wrote:SHIT loads of work done Ian. I can't believe how much this poor little bug has changed.
I thought when it was silver you wanted to go drag racing, but it looks to me like a circuit racer with wide stance.
Yeah well the whole idea of this rebuild was to take it to the other extreme. It would have pased for a stockish beetle when it was silver, except for the porsche wheels and the engine note. But it was just too unstable at speed 1/2 to do with suspension and the rest to do with aerodynamics I suspect. Id like the car to feel stable at 120mph, not like its going to get airbourne any second.
And yes while i do want to drag race the car, it will see far more motorkarna events than drag strips so the focus is more on handling than straight line speed.
Smiley ·
Any news on the car Ian?
Golde60 ·
I think I speak for smileyman and everyone else on forum when I say
I NEED A FIX MAAAAAAN!
Been about a month and I m gonna find a new dealer if you dont hook me up soon
Mick058 ·
agreed! My fav build thread is missed.
Smiley ·
I'm getting the shakes! 😂
trickysimon ·
Stop posting on here smileyman3000, everytime I see this thread at the top of the list I feel like a kid on Christmas day, only to find there is no presents 😂
(Just kidding smiley😉)
2443TT ·
Sorry to say there isnt any news. Im still waiting on my cylinder heads from DRD. They are now 2 months overdue which is beginning to be a little concern. They havent given me an ETA either. I am hoping they havent gone bankrupt or something. Especially since I had to pay 50% up front.
The last email Darren said he was the only one working in his shop, and they would have some time next month to work on them. Had I known they would take this long I'd have gone autocraft instead.
The fuel tank and dry sump tank are in. Fuel supply lines with pre filter, bosch 910 pump and magnaflow EFI after filter.
All ive done lately is to work on the plates on the chassis that the roll cage will bolt too. Everything I want to do next requires an engine to build around so the project is on hold till the heads arrive.
Dealing with one man bands can be a pain in the arse. With his 5 axis cnc machine, there should be no hold ups once hes devloped the port shape. Hope you get your heads soon, so we get regular updates on this interesting thread. Top notch so far.
2443TT ·
I am the only one here right now, and I have many things to do, being the only one here. You heads were started, but not finished, the guy that was working on them, have left us to move back home, he was not repleced. I will advice you, that there are no sign of a recsession in the vw market, we have enough work at my shop till the end of the year end, pretty much normal for all of us in the vw market. You were told these items were going to built custom, and there was going to be a wait time for them. Time line rght now is, a few months to get them completed, when there done there done. If you can wait a few months, we will refund your money, a 25% restocking fee will applied to your down payment. Let me know what you want to do.
Somehow I think Daren at DRD takes on more work than he can handle. Then works on the projects in the order of who complains the most. Over 5 months since I placed my order and paid a $2100 deposit to begin manufacture. Now its another 3 months (maybe) with no firm date in sight.
Im considering getting a refund now and trying to source some autocraft heads instead now. Im so sick of bullshit and broken promises. Im going to die of old age before this project is ever finished.
dangerous ·
Get your money back dude.
vassy66T1 ·
That is a real pain in the backside 😬
Yeh, it would be good if honesty was a little more prevalent so that you know what to expect and not get some half-baked answer from someone who is not organised and doesn't really know themselves what their timing is. It makes you nervous and leaves you feeling burnt. I hope it improves. The rest of your work is looking fantastic.
2443TT ·
Done and cancelled. On the bright side the Aussie dollar was at an all time high when I placed the order, so losing 25% isnt going to sting quite as badly now the dolar is down a bit since then.
So im now on the prowl for a set of decent autocraft heads. Im doing away with water cooling them too, and have decided to run air cooled and use E85 fuel instead. Possibly also using 8 injectors so I can look at methanol on the 2nd stage for high boost running.
The floor mounted radiators are now going th be used for water to air intercooling. I'll have some pics of them up by the end of the weekend work permitting...
Cheers,
Ian
Boostn ·
Ian,
Not good news, but I can't say I am surprised. Some of the yanks are the best talkers and the fact that you are so far away you can't just go around and smash things. I am quite surprised that you just handed that sort of cash to drd as I have seen some of his heads and I was not impressed. You should have gone local or even tried them yourself. Better yet go back to the CB heads and just get it done. If you tune on it with e85 there is no need for meth and you will be shocked at how much power it will make.
Good luck
andrewmurphy ·
Talking about E85 fuel, is it as corrosive as i have heard it is? I was talking about it with a guy who is involved in Toyota racing and if the fuel sits in the system for any legth of time it can cause problems so it is important to clean out the fuel system when not being used.
Mick058 ·
Ian, thats crap! Really is! I hate seeing these guys in business - and 25% re-stocking, for doing crap all!!! Really disappointing mate. That really is a rort.
Hope all goes well with the rest of the project and am really enjoying the thread.
Cam ·
E85 is a fairly common fuel overseas, so I doubt it's going to be overly damaging. I think people have concerns about E85 still having small amounts of water in it from the distillation process. But when you consider that every petrol station has a huge amount of water in their tanks which apparently gets stirred up (along with all any rubbish in the tank) whenever the things are filled, I think you'll find plenty of moisture has already been through your fuel system over the years.
I've was told by someone ages ago (and I'm sure Nick will be able to tell you if my source was on crack) what could be a problem are your solid fuel lines; but replacing these with stainless items will solve any problems you may have with settled fuel.
That really sucks, he should be giving you 25% on top of your deposit for messing you around and wasting so much of your time! Pleased to hear you have some motivation to get back on track like you were before, this would have really pissed me off... 👎
2443TT ·
Thanks for the link Marko, I like the look of those heads a lot and have sent an enquiry to see what options they can provide in terms of valve sizes, and of course pricing. Not chinese made too, so they have a lot going for them.
Yes ive got some motovation again. Things like this head drama really put a dampner of things though. I got stuck back into the car yesterday afternoon though and am 1/2 way done mounting the 2nd radiator in the floor. I'll post pics with they are done.
Cheers,
Ian
dangerous ·
Yes very nice heads.
I particularly like their rocker system with the extra stud on each end.
But normal Volksy rockers will fit straight on, if you have them already,
which is pretty cool.
I think some street guys in Euro have run N/A 10s ...that says it all I reckon.
R&D VW 1915cc engine
making power @ 9500rpm.
The pull (4000-9500rpm) is
made on a rolling road dyno.
Shiftlight starts at 8000rpm.. 🙅
2443TT ·
Hi Guys,
Heard back from Johannes at JP motorsport today. The heads are actually cheaper than the DRD ones were going to cost me. I can get them in 48x40 valve configuration, but they dont offer other valve size combinations such as 44x44 which I would have prefferred. Either way it looks like i'll be placing an order very soon, so the engine will be air/oil cooled with steel cylinders in its final configuration. I considered Nikasil briefly but for the power I am after when the engine is tuned for dyno comps, its probable that I'd split a cylinder.
Cheers,
Ian
Turbo54 ·
Are those heads the same ones that were first advertised on Shoptalkforums ages ago. They got a great wrap on there. I love the look of them and they will be an upgrade for me when I am sick of my current combo. Keep it up ian, cant wait to see it progress. Any pics of the radiators, I am interested to see how the fit.
Heath
T54
2443TT ·
Sorry no radiator pics just yet. The fitment has required a little chassis welding which means some paint work needs to be touched up on the chassis. It had to be done anyway, to correct that Opps i made by not putting the mount points for the roll cage in the correct area. Its all sorted out now though.
So glad its going to be air cooled again. Less complexity, and the radiator setup will pretty much guarantee the water-air intercooler system will hold low air temps for sustained high boost runs. Im getting enthuesastic again!
With any luck i'll finish work at mid day tomorrow and will finish off the pasenger side radiator installation.
fullnoise ·
Don't get me started on DRD😬. I'm surprised he has any work at all.
Unfortunately he's another commercially dishonest yank who will tell you anything to get your money and then either stuff you around or send you a substandard product that won't flow what was promised, won't lift what was promised and the so called "racing valve job" doesn't even seal.
Your car is awesome Ian. DRD heads wouldn't do it justice.
66deluxe ·
Yep DRD even has vids on his site on how he does his heads, doesn't even heat head and chill seat, just drives the seat home room tempreture with a drift and BFH. Go the JP heads, there excellent.
2443TT ·
The heads comes with alu bronze valve seats cut with four angle on intake and two angle plus radius on the exhaust.
Manley severe duty valves, ti retainers, OTEVA 75 dual valve springs and bronze guides.
The port is also blended into the valve seat, I will also point out that those heads are extremely good out of the box so be careful with modifications, they are not like the american heads wich you have to modify almost everything.The Pauters will fit right on.
Does that make anyone else aroused?
66deluxe ·
Yes it does Ian.
dangerous ·
I think something has moved "down there"!
I would still check spring travels
and have a look at the port with the valve removed. (for future "material" when you are alone and lonely).
You may want a bit more inlet spring tension.
I have seen plent of pics of those ports and yes,
nothing to do in there.
Definitely don't polish the inlet ports...as cast gives better turbulence and "tumble".
Marko ·
Quote another board:
I have JPM heads in my 84 x 101.6 street engine with FK91/89 cam, 1 7/8 header and 50mm throttle bodies. Compression is only 10.5:1. The engine made 241hp @ 6950rpm and 278nm
JPM heads out of the box. Nothing modify. Valves is 48/40.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Marko bring this car of yours to the dyno day!! Would love to hear it on the dyno as would everyone else.
Flintstones ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:Marko bring this car of yours to the dyno day!! Would love to hear it on the dyno as would everyone else.
put it on youtube for the rest of us to enjoy.
would love to here this motor scream
Cheers
Marko ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:Marko bring this car of yours to the dyno day!! Would love to hear it on the dyno as would everyone else.
Hahah, too far a way, it's my friends car and located in Finland. My own maybe ready next year and of course i come dyno.
2443TT ·
Ok guys, finally an update. I'd been working on radiator mounts for a few weeks but between running out of materials and getting interrupted it was hard to make any good progress. But the long weekend sure helped.
Ive made recessed mounts for the radiators and thermo fans into the floor as you can see. The fans are setup to pull air up, and there will be an alloy sheet metal scoop fitted that goes over both radiators and forward a bit so that the radiator doesnt re-circulate hot air when the car is running when stationary. They were originally going to be used for the watercooling of the heads, but now they are for the water-air intercooler(s) the engine will be using.
Where the wires are hanging out is where the water hoses connect to the radiator, and also the air flows out. The exhaust slot is about 3" x 10".
The outer plate edge of the chassis had to be strengthened to support the roll cage so thats heavy 6mm plate, but is only about 400mm long. The inner plate material and mounting points are all 3mm and everything else is 1.6mm sheet.
If only I'd known I was going to make these before assembling the car, putting the body on the pan etc... It would have been a lot easier to make. I dont like welding and painting next to the car with the paint finished like it is.
Next on the list is a windscreen and the engine. I received an email from JP Motorsport again today and will be ordering a pair of heads tomorrow from the looks of it.
Cheers,
Ian
Flintstones ·
Definitely one exotic machine Ian
Cheers
D
2443TT ·
Out of the blue yesterday I received a phone call from Johannes at JP Motorsport in Sweeden. How about that for good customer service and being proactive. DRD should take a lesson from this.
So the last of the details are now ironed out, and I paid for my heads today. They should be here in Australia in 3 weeks!
reub ·
WHOO HOO.... can wait to see these dude👍
66deluxe ·
Thats great news and service from Johannes, were all looking forward to seeing these heads Ian.
mountainbug ·
absolutely no budget involved as it was from the start, Fanfuckingtastic effort. WOW. When do you stop to think.
Cheers
2443TT ·
Hi Guys,
I received an email today from Johannes at JP Motorsport with a picture of my heads as removed from the milling machine.
From the looks of them they just need porting, seats, and guides. He is working on them now, and they will ship before the end of the day (sweedish time) aparently. So with any luck i'll be completing the assembly of my engine inside 2 weeks! Woo Hoo!
reub ·
They look great mate.👍
matberry ·
reub-revhead wrote:They look great mate.👍
x 10
Euro_67 ·
2443TT wrote:From the looks of them they just need porting !
:🤪
Craig Torrens ·
he he..🤓 !
2443TT ·
Euro_67 wrote:
2443TT wrote:From the looks of them they just need porting !
:🤪
I only meant to blend in the valve seats so there isnt a step from the port to the seat. I suppose the need for that would be determiend by how accurate their initial machining is. If they are built like a Koenigsegg they wont need it, and will do just fine.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Well Ian those pics signify good news for you after all the stuffing around you have copped and certainly do look nice!!
2443TT ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:Well Ian those pics signify good news for you after all the stuffing around you have copped and certainly do look nice!!
Well it gets better!
On the 25/04/2009 DRD promised to give me a refund of my deposit minus a 25% re-stocking fee. I reluctantly agreed to this, but over a month later still no refund arrived. Fortunatly I had made the deposit with a credit card, so I raised a dispute with my bank for failure to deliver goods and then failure to return a refund.
Just checked my bank account this morning and the bank has ruled in my favour and refunded me the whole amount of my initial deposit!
I also just got an email from Johannes as well. My heads are finished and will be shipped this morning. How great a start to the day is this! 😂
Cheers,
Ian
Dasdubber ·
Great stuff Ian, glad to see things go your way and things are now back on track!
al
dangerous ·
That is awesome news Ian.
That lack of of response, even with a simple money refund, shows he was always a dishonest character.
That sort of thing really gets my gander up.
Even if it was just that restocking fee,
I would still want to find the plane fare and be taking it out of his hide within the 24 hours.
Wouldn't the world be great if it was as simple as:
-ring the guy
-pay the money(lots or little)
-Parts arrive in fair time
-being kept informed of any delays
-or told from the start"sorry I am too busy have all your money back",
But looks like your cool head has payed off and it has all worked out even better.
I think you will find most guys dont mind paying top dollar for quality ,
but when you have to pay for BS and lies that is just not on.
That is one of the reasons I very rarely have anyone do anything for me, even if I have to learn myself.
I understand people get busy and problems arise,
but I think most times people have a problem with vendors, a quick call is all that is needed.
...and PAYING customers always come before race cars. (but not at the neglect of family and health).
Enought of me on m soap box!
Cant wait to see them Ian!
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Great news Ian. I've seen waaaay too many people get ripped off by overseas businesses which does certainly make me reluctant to deal anyone I do not personally know of.
polak ·
iv always tried to work out that picture at the bottom of all your posts Ian, and i guess finding this thread has answered my question..... holly crap thats mental!!! i love it, this is the sort of engineering i was talking about on the subaru invasion thread, this is what we need more of.... keep up the good work and post more update pics if possible, cant wait to see this thing out on the track....🤪🤪
Boostn ·
Nice nice nice!!!
good to see it all worked out in the end.
you are WAY better off with the jpm heads, the drd heads would have been a massive disappointment, just like his service.
2443TT ·
Boostn wrote:Nice nice nice!!!
good to see it all worked out in the end.
you are WAY better off with the jpm heads, the drd heads would have been a massive disappointment, just like his service.
Yeah i totally agree. I can just imagine what would have happened had i waited for the DRD heads. They would have leaked, and required re-machining as they would have no doubt been warped. So glad I dont have to experience that!
Here's another pic from Johannes. These are the valve springs, support shims and titanium retainers that are on the heads. Seat pressure is 160-170lbs with this setup as they are on the heads right now.
2443TT ·
Update time at last...
The a weeknd or two ago I fitted up the last of the trim and interior parts (except the seats). Windscreen wipers, windows all in etc... I want to put some soundproofing on the floor before I go bolting seats into the car though. I still havent decided on the mirrors too. I have a pair of ones that are painted to match the car, but im thinking i might just switch to a single carbon fiber mirror. Plenty of time to decided on that...
Had a slow start to the day today but I now have a set of barrels rough cut to length too. Ive setup for a 0 deck height. The piston shown is a custom order CP piston, 22mm pin, low compression height and 36cc dish. Its also had the skirts teflon coated and the crowns ceramic coated and polished. Tomorrows plan is to finish barrel machining and probably piston ring filing to set the ring gaps.
Heads arrive next week so I want to be ready to bolt them on and get stuck into header and intake manifold fabrication.
Cheers,
ian
2443TT ·
Hi all,
Had a moderatly productive day today. Finished machining the cylinders to length, gapped the rings and fitted the rings on the pistons. Im now ready for the heads to arrive next week.
Check out the compression height of these. Because of the massive stroke and 5.7" rods in this engine I wanted to keep it as narrow as possible. Then of course I cut the back end off the car so it doesnt really matter now...
Tomorrow i'll be finishing the dry sump pump mount and making a plug to block off the distributor hole. Then hopefully the heads will arrive next week.
Cheers,
Ian
VWFREAK ·
Coming along nicely 😀
063bug ·
The attention to detail on this project is amazing... not to mention the documentary/photos... this thread is a credit to you 👍
2443TT ·
At last guys I finaly have a set of heads, and they are truely awesome! The machining is really as good as it looks. Valve seats are blended to the casting so there is no noticable lip to feel if you run your finger over it. Exhaust flanges are huge too, should make for a good sealing area considering the exhaust back pressure on the engine will be approaching 35PSI.
I discovered that the Australian government doesnt have a free trade agreement with the Swiss too. Import duty and GST was another $718 on top of the purchase price of $3275. So Ouch! Just as well Kevin Rudd gave me some money to help buy these! But they look like they will be up to the task of what I have planned for them.
I know what I'll be doing this weekend.... 😀
bajachris88 ·
HOLY CRAP!
HA theres not even any slight more room for those values to be any big, thats insane!
reub ·
Sensational dude
Mick058 ·
Alright! Some progress coming up.
polak ·
those heads are frikken ridiculous!!!🤪🤪 beautiful job on the machining too... i couldnt wait till the weekend, id be taking a sickie today😂😂
Flintstones ·
Very nice!!!!😎
STOCK ·
I THINK SOMETHING JUST MOVED IN MY PANTS😂😂
2443TT ·
Sorry for the lack of progress now the heads are here, it was supposed to be all systems go...
Seems the set of raceware head studs I have are 8mm and not 10mm like I thought I had ordered (nearly 2 years ago). So I didnt get very far at all with it last weekend. Ive since decided to use a set of CB 10mm chromoly studs that I have here, and have so far cut 1/2 of them to size so far. I hope to find time to work on the engine in the evenings this week and get it to a rocker cover to rocker cover stage of assembly.
2443TT ·
Update at last...
I've made a little progress with the engine this week, although not as much as i'd have liked. I was going to use the CB 10mm chromoly head studs I had spare here but found out some of them were rusty. Ive had them in storage too long. So Ive decided to put the engine together anyway so I can finish the cooling system and start on the header and intake fabrication, and ive ordered some replacement studs.
Here's some pics of the engine. Ive started modifying my 911 style fan shroud too, with a little fiberglass here and there to make it a more snug fit onto the oxy boxer block. Should have more pics over the weekend.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
Project 'blown' budget now dude?? 😁
Looks the goods, and can't wait to see with shroud etc on.👍
Flintstones ·
reub-revhead wrote:Project 'blown' budget now dude?? 😁
Looks like Ian's gonna have to sell that skyline of his to finish the Dub😂
Cheers
D
2443TT ·
Well here's a few pics of the shroud. Its close to being finished, I just need to spend a little more time wet rubbing it pror to having it 2pac clear coated again.
Ive also made some templates up to have some new flanges water-jet cut. Im going to do something a little diferent here. The flange will mirror the exhaust port shape and is being cut from 25mm mild steel plate. I will then put the flanges in a lathe and turn down the first 15-17mm of the flange, but taper it so the port expands out from 38mm to 40mm inside diameter. Bends will be tig welded internally and externally to the flanges. The flanges will be match ported as well of course.
The fan housing is a porsche 911 11 blade type. I'll be sending that and the fan away to get them ceramic coated to make them look nice. Im sick of polishing already.
And the other side...
Head studs should arrive this week too, so the heads can come off and the top end of the engine be finally assembled.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
Flintstones wrote:
reub-revhead wrote:Project 'blown' budget now dude?? 😁
Looks like Ian's gonna have to sell that skyline of his to finish the Dub😂
Cheers
D
Oh yeah, not going broke but I am tightening the belt. I did some mental sums and I still have a god $5k to spend on new engine management and injectors, wiring, intercooler and all the oil plumbing that still remains.
Im planning to buy a house around october-december and saving for that is the main priority.
Golde60 ·
i just thought it was called blown budget because of the forced induction. clearly the priority has not changed from building the best.
keep it up man, it is inspirational to watch
2443TT ·
A quick update... No new head studs have arrive just yet but no matter i'll be working on the turbo header this weekend instead. Ive had some flanges waterjet cut and machined them up on the lathe so im ready to begin on the merged collectors on the weekend. That means the engine will be bolted to the gearbox for the first time and the rear apron attached so I can work on turbo placement etc.
Something that is often a right pain in the ass with large headers is the inability to weld a decent size pipe to the flange and stil get a nut on it properly due to externally welded pipe. The only solution is internally welded pipe and that can mean slipping the pipe inside a conventional flat flange. This is OK for most NA engine setups, but thicker piping is needed for turbo applications and this then reduces your inside diameter.
So thats why ive done it this way. The head exhaust ports will be match ported to the flanges and taper out to 40mm ID pipe.
Cheers,
Ian
volkdent ·
I've never seen that solution, very inventive and attractive to boot! I can't help but imagine that this will turn out to be one of the best looking GLers in the world.
Jason
hellbugged ·
2443TT wrote:So thats why ive done it this way. The head exhaust ports will be match ported to the flanges and taper out to 40mm ID pipe.
very nice..........but only 40mm ID exhaust ?
2443TT ·
hellbugged wrote:
2443TT wrote:So thats why ive done it this way. The head exhaust ports will be match ported to the flanges and taper out to 40mm ID pipe.
very nice..........but only 40mm ID exhaust ?
Only for the primaries. When the collectors happen it changes to 50mm ID.
VWFREAK ·
Crazy, whats the estimated completion date now ?
2443TT ·
Hi Guys,
I'd rather not guess a completion date at this stage. Im just working on it as much as I can now. The propper head studs should arrive this week so the top end of the engine goes together properly next weekend. The header should be finished this week.
Speaking of... here is the results of this weekends activities.
The header has 39mm ID primaries that merge to the 2" secondaries in the middle under the sump. This then goes back and is split evenly with another 2" merge to go to each turbo.
Turbo's are mounted high to keep them away from dirt etc, and it also guarantees no problem with the oil returns to the rocker covers.
From the inside you can see the compressor outlets. They meet in the middle to feed the water-air intercooler, and then a pipe goes back through to a centrally mounted throttle body. Well thats the plan at least.
The turbo's are Greddy T517Z's 8cm turbo's rated at 350hp each. They should be reasonably responsive even if the plan was to just run the turbo's in parrallel. But Im still planning on setting up a sequential bi-turbo system. Which is why the header allows all gas flow to a single turbo when valving is closed.
Hope to finish the front pipes later this week.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
Awesome work as always dude👍
2443TT ·
Update time. The engine is back on the bench as the head studs arrived from LN engineering on monday.
Cutting to length. Had to shorten all studs a 1/4" at the inside and the center two top studs an additional 1/4 at the outside.
Here is the cylinders and pistons with rings finally assembled and in the engine, sealant under the barrels etc ready for heads.
Heads on at last. Inner valve springs are removed at the moment, and I still need to remove an outer and check rocker geometry and measure up the pushrod length.
Sexy head studs! Only tightened to wrist tightness so far. I need to make a tool so I can torque the top center head studs as I cant get a socket on there, and being a double hex nut its going to be an interesting challange.
Cooling tin with the part that goes around the head removed (as it wouldnt fit the MS230 heads).
I started shimming up the rockers too, but need to make up some spacers for the outer rockers on the weekend when I get a chance.
Unfortunatly I cant finish the other side of the engine just yet. As luck goes I have a set of ARP head studs to suit a case that has a deep insert on the number 3 cylinder (longer stud), but thats not any good for my oxy case. Charles at LN engineering has shipped over a replacement stud, so with any luck in another week I can finish the other side of the engine.
Ive decided to alter the turbo placement a little too, so the half finished header is being chopped a little and altered on the weekend.
Cheers,
Ian
Cheers,
polak ·
wow! thats coming together nice, can wait to see/hear it in person.... noticed the modplates on the tinwork in the back... did you have any issues getting it done? are modplates easier/cheaper than getting it engineered, or is it the same thing... sorry for the stupid questions, but i dont know anything about the legal side of doing extensive mods. also dont know if u know, but if i were to not run the back seats in a beetle, are there any legalities i would need to comply with?
vassy66T1 ·
Fabtastic and really quite insane!!!
Ingenious solution for the exhaust ports 👍
That car isn't modified is it??🙅
2443TT ·
polak wrote:wow! thats coming together nice, can wait to see/hear it in person.... noticed the modplates on the tinwork in the back... did you have any issues getting it done? are modplates easier/cheaper than getting it engineered, or is it the same thing... sorry for the stupid questions, but i dont know anything about the legal side of doing extensive mods. also dont know if u know, but if i were to not run the back seats in a beetle, are there any legalities i would need to comply with?
With the chassis I just did a lot of planning before starting, got all the critical measurements straight and then talked to an engineer and discussed what I was doing before I started work. After he ok'd my design in principal, I started to put it together and had him inspect it before having the finishing welds done.
Provided you do your homework and present a good case, Im fairly certain most engineers will approve anything within reason. Mod plates are a QLD thing, and yes you do need a plate for altered seating capacity too (ie no back seats).
Cheers,
Ian
polak ·
thanks for that Ian, i guess im going to have to look into the nsw regs as i dare say they may be different... cheers adam
Flintstones ·
WOW,Really impressive Ian
it's a shame that you'll have to hide so much of it with the cooling tins, shroud etc
Cheers
oval TOFU ·
All I can say is 'wow'.
❗
2443TT ·
Hi everyone,
That last head stud arrived last week so Ive been working on the engine for most of the last 3 days and have finally go it very close to finished now.
Headstuds torqued, rockers aligned, lash caps and pusrod tubes installed.
Carbon fibre fan shroud clear coated in 2pac standox clear
Dry sump pump mound bolted on.
And the RPM 4 stage dry sump pump loose mounted.
I decided to not be a girl and spent a few hours on the polisher today too and re-polished the 911 alternator fan housing and alternator stand. Dry sump pump drive belt is now installed too.
Im getting the remaining tinware sand blasted and will be painting it with flat black 2pak next week.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
WOWSERS!
Looks sensational Ian. We're all hanging to see how it goes!👍
trickysimon ·
😵 Thats awesome mate
ricola ·
That engine looks incredible, love the carbon/polished contrast!
cnfabo ·
i think ive gone bananas,,....
nothing short of WOW....
Flintstones ·
Sensational ❗
Baja Wes ·
Looks nice! I don't know about the orange valve covers though.
reub ·
Baja Wes wrote:Looks nice! I don't know about the orange valve covers though.
Just as well they weren't red or you would have said straight out how horrible they were... 🙂
2443TT ·
reub-revhead wrote:
Baja Wes wrote:Looks nice! I don't know about the orange valve covers though.
Just as well they weren't red or you would have said straight out how horrible they were... 🙂
I agree... Orange is the colour out of the box. I'll be painting them flat black along with the tinware once its back from the sand blasters.
colonel mustard ·
I like the orange... its out there... Looking good mate.
mactaylor ·
looken great ian what brand is your dry sump pump?
2443TT ·
mactaylor wrote:looken great ian what brand is your dry sump pump?
Its an RPM 4 stage. 1st stage is 1.250", and the scavenge stages are all 1.75" stages.
The engine is now back in the car today. Im working on the header again now and have re-mouted one of the turbo's so far. I'll have some pics up in a few days when its finished.
Cheers,
Ian
Golde60 ·
crazy
awsome and inspirational
Boostn ·
Looking good Ian,
what ecu are you going to use?
what is your predicted KW
2443TT ·
Boostn wrote:Looking good Ian,
what ecu are you going to use?
what is your predicted KW
I'll be using a Wolf version 5 ecu and MSD DIS2 or 4 ignition with 2 or 4 coils (havent quite decided just yet).
Power level predictions? Well the pair of trust T517z's are rated flow 700hp to the flywheel on a RB26, and examples of them tuned in GTR's they make around 400awkw maxed out. I hope to see 450-500rwhp on a max power tune, but time will tell.
Still working on the header today. The engine sure looks good bolted into the back of the car again now.
Flintstones ·
Pics please 👍
dangerous ·
"The engine sure looks good bolted into the back of the car again now."
YEAH!!!!
You cant say that and have no pictures!!!
2443TT ·
Well here's the header 1/2 finished with the altered turbo positioning. This time I made a bracket to hold the turbo flange where I wanted it first, then ran the plumbing to it. Such a smarter way of keeping things leval than trying to hold something in position when welding it all together using curved pipes. Ive used mild steel for the header and Turbo X black ceramic coat it and the turbo's turbine housings rather than mess around with stainless.
I'll be able to easily put a thin stainless sheet metal heat shied around the turbo housings too. There is plenty of room, not that the pics show that. Enough to easily run 3" dumps from the turbo's with plenty of tyre clearance, but it will most likely end up being 2.5" as thats the size all the valving is for the sequential setup im using.
Manifolds are just temporarily fitted. Ive got to work out how I want to do the intake manifolds next. Im contemplating using a plenum chamber above each manifold and a single 3" pipe from each side to a center mounted throttle body, or running 2 x 2.5" pipes to a merge and then 2.5" from each merge to a center mounted throttle. The 2.5" setup would maintain better air flow at low RPM which should mean better torque in theory but I dont think that will be a problem with this engine. The 3" idea is a lot easier to manufacture.
I'll be finishing off the rear pipe work on the weekend, and then I want to pressure test it to check I havent left any pinholes in my welding.
Cheers,
Ian
Flintstones ·
With the aluminum trailing arms, you've got so much more room for the turbo's and exhaust (when you do make it)
It's definately looking good!!
2443TT ·
Hi guys,
Well I got nothing at all done over the weekend, instead decided to have the day off to blow my nose and drink buckets of mucas but all good now.
Last week I had some flanges laser cut so when I knocked off work today after lunch I was able to get started on the intake manifolds. These are the comp eliminator manifolds I used on the last engine. There is a balance pipe welded through both ports (for when it had quad throttles on it), which I will still use as it keeps the vacuum hoses nicely hidden. This is how I mounted the fuel rails too, It proved very effective and is a lot neater than how CB would have you do it.
Here is one side of the intake manifold before its tig welded. Ive given the flanges and pipe the once over with the polisher too of course. Welds to the flanges will be internal and then the flanges will be milled dead flat again.
And here's what it looks like from the top. Its so time consuming making nice merges, especially when they have to look good. Where's Westi when you need him...
Cheers,
Ian
Stanley ·
lookin' the goods Ian.
Keep the pics coming
Boostn ·
Nice, Rochester 1000cc shower head injectors. They are great to tune down low.
The injector mount is much nicer than the std CB way !!
Can't wait to see the dyno sheets for this.
2443TT ·
They are rochesters but these are 650cc's from memory. Enough to get started and run in with but i'll be having to upgrade when I go after a max power figure. Ive got a base map from my 2443 that ran these injectors so it will mean no startup issues in theory...
So its been a little while since the last update. Ive been outsourcing having the tig welding done on the intake manifolds. The guys doing the work are very good but also busy so my project has been put to the bottom of their list as far as priority's go, which is a bit of a pain in the ass.
The first intake manifold end I had welded introduces me to how much stainless steel pulls when its welded. The flanges on the first intake end were about 5mm closer together once the merge was welded on the above pictures, so I had to do a lot of swearing to get it back onto the 4 mounting studs, bolt it on and then have some wedges welded in between the flanges to stop the whole lot twisting up and distorting.
I got it right on the 2nd intake and had these wedges welded to the flanges first before they were unbolted from the manifolds and the pipes then internally welded to the flanges.
With the ends done I set about doing the plumbing in between. This is more or less what it will look like, with the throttle body in the center through the firewall. The welding is being done on this tomorrow (hopefully). Im having this done in stages so I can re-check the pipe alignment and adjust for the material distortion that comes with the welding.
The entire intake will be flanged/bolt together, except for the left side behind the pump where there will be a clamped expansion joint.
As for this weeks activities ive been focusing on the exhaust system starting with dump pipes and the start of the exhaust. Ive used 2 x 2.5" pipes on the turbo flanges, cut them and joined them the full length so they fit nicely on the flange. Ive welded them internally and blended them to the pipe on the inside. The other end of the dump pipes then expands to 3" where it then runs parallel to the rocker cover as you can see.
3" might be seen as being a little excessive, but that is the standard size that would be being used if these turbo's were on an RB26DETT in a GTR, which is what they are designed for. The only diference is that I wont be merging them back together, there will be a 3" muffler on each pipe and an exhaust pipe behind each tyre. Im glad the wheels are so wide on the rear end, it makes for plenty of room for the mufflers.
Thats all for now.
Cheers,
Ian
Smiley ·
Nice work. It's looking sweet Ian.
Smiley
DavoBuggy 1641 ·
This thing is insane! nice work dude!
Cheers Dave!
VWFREAK ·
This build takes VW Porn to a new level, bloody awesome Ian.
reub ·
SCHAWING 😵
2443TT ·
Howdee all,
Another update... Manifold nearing completion. The 2nd last lot of tig welding is now done, and ive got just the two last pieces and a throttle flange to have welded onto it now. With any luck it will be ready tomorrow afternoon.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
Welding finished at last.
Finishing the exhaust this weekend and then its time to break open the wallet and order some intercoolers and hoses for oil and fuel. Im beginning to see light at the end of the tunnel now.
colonel mustard ·
Its looking great. Out of interest, whats the deal with the red bandage :S looks great. Sorry, If iv missed it before, but one injector per Cylinder.... what size for this setup! amazing progress there 🙂 looking great 🙂
2443TT ·
The "red bandage" is a piece of 2.5" silicon hose. I'll is the expansion joint between both sides of the engine. Injectors will have to be around 1000cc to make the big power figure im after, but the 650cc injectors are still for well over 300hp which will be the street tune of the car.
2443TT ·
Quick update...
Made a little progress today. Match ported the intake manifolds to the intake runners, so they are now match the ID of the 2.5" piping i used on the intake. I need a much bigger air compressor.
I also polished the intake manifolds a little but didnt get too caried away because I need to get the flanges faced off tomorrow so they are dead flat and seal to the manifolds properly. Still, it looks pretty on the engine. The hole for the throttle body has been cut with a nibbler. The throttle body itself is from a nissan RB30 and is 65mm ID.
Next week im sourcing some sort of intercooler setup, and some new injector o-rings. Then I can finally start on the plumbing for fuel, oil etc.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
Hardcore dude👍
waltermitty ·
Ian Im just about on the gravy stroke and you've slipped off the radar!
Update PLEASE!! Mitchell
2443TT ·
Ok... Update time.
Ive been flat out with work lately, and had worked the last 2 weekends. Put in some rediculas hours. Cant wait for the invoices to get paid for that. One job that pretty much pays for the completion of the rest of the project no problems.
As far as VW project progress goes, ive had the flanges on the intake manifolds milled dead flat, as the heat distortion they sufferred when being welded meant that the seal to the manifolds was less than perfect. Its all great now though. The manifolds were also professionally polished (Way better than what I was able to do), and look pretty amazing.
It took some time to finalise what I was actually going to do with plumbing the intake, intercoolers and setting up the air intakes for the turbo's but I have a good plan all sorted out now. The current hold up is parts, but its all ordered and paid for now. I 600hp rated PWR barrel water/air intercooler will arrive next week some time. Then I can finish off the last of the intake piping, air boxes etc.
Here are a few pics. The camera doesnt do them justice, but the polish is pretty dam extreme... although it seems there is a layer of dust on it all at the moment too.
Cheers,
Ian
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Nice work as always Ian!! Are you making the trek down for Warwick next weekend by any chance??
2443TT ·
Afraid I didnt make Warwick, though I want to next year. With luck i'll even be there with a car.
I finally finished of the left side dump pipe on the weekend. A lot of hammering, welding, grinding and die grinding later im pretty happy with the results. Infact it turned out way better and had much better clearance than the drivers side did, so I had to re-do that again too.
And the re-done drivers side.
Fuel system 95% finished, just need a gauge to screw into the regulator. Oil hoses started, filter mounted...
I should make some huge inroads with the project in the next week or so. There is a lot of parts due to arrive soon. Intercooler, oil cooler, exhaust valve, hose fittings and a lot of hose. Im finally seeing light at the end of the tunnel.
Cheers,
Ian
Turbo54 ·
Looking great Ian, keep it up.
T54
Flintstones ·
Looking great Ian.
Your definitely going to need volume to fill that intake👍
How long do you think it'll be before she gets fired up?
Cheers
D
Dasdubber ·
Fantastic work Ian, keep those updates coming!
2443TT ·
Flintstones wrote:Looking great Ian.
Your definitely going to need volume to fill that intake👍
How long do you think it'll be before she gets fired up?
Cheers
D
Thanks guys, it had been a few weeks since ive been able to give the VW the attention it needed, between work and the other engine project ive been working on for the GTR. The other project.... http://www.odengines.com
Realisticly I think it will probably be another 3 months. Im not planng for any more holdups but having said that now something else is sure to go wrong.
The only challange left is the induction side of the engine, and I have a pretty nice picture in my head for how its going to go... Just need to form that into reality now.
I'll keep you all posted.
Cheers,
Ian
JVLRacing ·
🤪popcorn is becomin alot nicer everytime i tune into this thread.....
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Would love to see your car make the trek down for Warwick next year....
chunks54 ·
Looking great....
2443TT ·
Hi everyone,
Finally made some progress, having had a fair amount of parts arrive in the last week.
The pressure side of the intake with the intercooler setup is for the most part sorted out. Final welds are being done with tig tomorrow. I'll be sorting out the turbo intakes tomorrow as well. There will be an air box above each turbo with a 2.5" or 3" pipe feeding the turbos going more or less straight down. Once all the pipes are welded and bolted in, a mount will rigid mount the intercooler to the gearbox to prevent anything from blowing apart when its having 30psi pushed through it.
I am still configuring the twins as a 2 stage sequential system. The left (drivers side) pipe still needs to have a valve put inline with it that is pneumatically operated. There is a 3" valve to get welded to the 3" dump pipe on the drivers side turbo too. For the most part below 4000-4500 rpm the engine will be running off the passenger side turbo, its only above that which the drivers side one will be pre-spooled and bought into the mix.
Ive got the oil coolers mounted now too. After ordering a fancy one from the US, I have decided to not use it, and went back to the setup I had when the car had the 2332 turbo setup in it. After all it worked exceptionally well and never had heat regulation issues.
Tomorrow more parts speedflow fittings are due in, so the plumbing begins.
I'd like to be spending the weekend starting on wiring but I hope to be competing in the bituamen sprints time attack event in townsville in the GTR. Fortunatly work has slacked off so I have afternoons to work on the vw nearly every day now.
Cheers,
Ian
Boostn ·
looking good
volkdent ·
Great to watch this all come together, overwhelming if you think back to all the chassis stuff!!! Little steps go a long way, just amazing.
If you don't mind me asking, after the extra weight and complexity, how much better is A/W intercooling over A/A? I seriously looked at the same PWR intercooler before I went with a Spearco A/A, but I'm not sure I made the right decision. With the power I'm making so far (200hp), it's not been an issue, but with the projected 300 from a GT28RS I'm not sure.
I'm thinking maybe a custom intake manifold with a center inlet, straight back like yours is, then down to the turbo would be a seriously short trip.
Jason
063bug ·
Awesome work Ian, truely awesome.... and very interested in what you do with the cooling, what size lines, flexible, solid, what size pump you're using and where you run the lines....... hopefully most of these will be answered in photos
2443TT ·
volkdent wrote:If you don't mind me asking, after the extra weight and complexity, how much better is A/W intercooling over A/A? I seriously looked at the same PWR intercooler before I went with a Spearco A/A, but I'm not sure I made the right decision. With the power I'm making so far (200hp), it's not been an issue, but with the projected 300 from a GT28RS I'm not sure.
I'm thinking maybe a custom intake manifold with a center inlet, straight back like yours is, then down to the turbo would be a seriously short trip.
Jason
Water/air arent necessarily any better than air-air intercoolers. The problem is getting the heat out of the intercooler or heat exchangers and to do that it requires airflow.
Getting airflow to a radiator/intercooler is a problem with a bug as any place you put it the airflow isnt going to be very good. By very good i mean in comparison to say a front mount intercooler in a front engine'd car. The more airflow the better. My feeling is that if its a front engine car then air-air is the go. Basically above 80km/h its very hard to beat the efficency of an air-air intercooler. Water to air just allows that heat to be dissapated remotely.
There are a few other diferences too. Water to air can have shorter piping (in some cases) which reduces lag. Heat soak can be a problem though depending on where the heat exchanger is mounted. Away from heat is ideal, or insulated if not possible. I hope that makes sense...
2443TT ·
Update time...
I didnt get anything done on the weekend as I was in townsville racing in the last bitumen sprint series event for the year. Was good to get out of town and have a break.
So welding of the intake plumbing is now nearly finished. The valve that controls sequental operation is the only hold up to finishing it off now. That will arrive this week sometime.
And what it looks like mock fitted.
And some more speedflow stuff arrived as well. This is most of the plumbing for the pressure and scavenge side of the oil system, and the water systems for the intercooler. There is still a little more to order for the oil thermostat and oil coolers.
Thats all for now...
Cheers,
Ian
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Finish line is just that much closer to being in sight now hey Ian?? Looking the goods mate. nice!!
Beetspeed ·
2443TT wrote:Getting airflow to a radiator/intercooler is a problem with a bug as any place you put it the airflow isnt going to be very good. By very good i mean in comparison to say a front mount intercooler in a front engine'd car. The more airflow the better.
With all due respect, but I think I have found a solution that does some justice to the bug and kind-off resembles what porsche did and actually still does if I look at their rear 'spoiler' on the latest models:
Works extremely well according to log IAT's 😎
Always wondered why nobody used some sort of likewise intercooler location..
But still an awesome project, really curieus what the twin turbos will do!
2443TT ·
I'll pay that. I saw that setup on STF a while back. But Ive already got a nice carbon fibre engine lid though and dont want to go chopping holes in it. I never really liked the porsche style wings on the beetles either. Its just a personal taste thing.
volkdent ·
2443TT wrote:
volkdent wrote:If you don't mind me asking, after the extra weight and complexity, how much better is A/W intercooling over A/A? I seriously looked at the same PWR intercooler before I went with a Spearco A/A, but I'm not sure I made the right decision. With the power I'm making so far (200hp), it's not been an issue, but with the projected 300 from a GT28RS I'm not sure.
I'm thinking maybe a custom intake manifold with a center inlet, straight back like yours is, then down to the turbo would be a seriously short trip.
Jason
Water/air arent necessarily any better than air-air intercoolers. The problem is getting the heat out of the intercooler or heat exchangers and to do that it requires airflow.
Getting airflow to a radiator/intercooler is a problem with a bug as any place you put it the airflow isnt going to be very good. By very good i mean in comparison to say a front mount intercooler in a front engine'd car. The more airflow the better. My feeling is that if its a front engine car then air-air is the go. Basically above 80km/h its very hard to beat the efficency of an air-air intercooler. Water to air just allows that heat to be dissapated remotely.
There are a few other diferences too. Water to air can have shorter piping (in some cases) which reduces lag. Heat soak can be a problem though depending on where the heat exchanger is mounted. Away from heat is ideal, or insulated if not possible. I hope that makes sense...
Thanks Ian, yes it does, and that is my thinking too. I'm going to be putting scoops in the quarter windows and I cut my car up a lot more than you did, so it works for me, but for a relatively conservative install I think it can't be done any better than yours! I appreciate the feedback, sometimes it's difficult to make decisions when your doing things as off the beaten path as ours...
Jason
2443TT ·
Update time...
Made quite a lot of progress this week.
The oil returns for the turbo's to the rocker covers are now finished, and ive had fittings welded onto the valve covers for the scavenge stages on the dry sump pump. Most of the oil plumbing is now completed too. Ive got the valving for the sequential setup 1/2 finished, and the entire intake side is finished and just needs a few silicon hoses to hold it all together now. I've just got to make a mount to attach the intercooler to the gearbox and thats it for the intake side of things.
The rocker covers are in being garnet blasted after the welding burnt a lot of the orange paint off. I'll be re-painting them next week in a black semi-gloss (not pink though I considered it for a moment).
So the engine comes out again this weekend in preporation for going in again next week/weekend when the new clutch setup arrives. Ive had Direct Clutch in brisbane customise a twin plate setup for me. Its based on a chassis shop twin plate using the revmaster chromoly flywheel and a kennedy pressure plate. The friction discs are custom and are a total of 600 grams lighter than the sinistered iron discs that kennedy had supplied. They also fixed all the machining screwups that were done to the flywheel and made it work properly. It should drive like a stage 1 clutch now but have holding power to handle 500+hp with ease.
Other cool news is I've just become an authorised workshop to perform exhaust coatings for Techline. Im going to be using the Turbo X and prevcor coatings on the turbine housings and all exhaust manifolds components on the bug. The main reason I got into this though is for my OD Engines project, so I can coat all my own exhaust manifolds and turbo's.
Sorry no pictures to show this time, but there will be a lot to show come next week.
Thats all for now.
Cheers,
Ian
blahgab ·
hey Ian, have just finished reading your inter thread, its amazing what you've been able to do . i wish i had the skill/money to do this type and of build. bet you can't wait the get this beast on the road. keep up the good work will be following ur progess with envy 🤪
zac
2443TT ·
Thanks Zac.
Ive made a lot of progress since the last update, but its mostly little things and the finishing touches still need to go on a lot of it.
This weekends progress though saw the completion of the engine with the modified rocker covers fitted and the last of the dry sump plumbing completed. There is now a scavenge stage from each rocker, and a turbo oil feed return for each turbo. Here is a few pics of the engine as it is now.
And here's some pics of the twin plate clutch assembly going together. These are the lightened friction discs that Direct Clutch made for me to replace the sinistered iron ones that the kenedy setup normally ships with. They had to make up the spacer ring as well, as the positioning on the pressure plate was incorrect for optimal operation.
Dave, your mate was right too. Series 5 RX7 input shafts are the same as 930 input shafts.
Ive modified the bell housing a little to clear the pinion gear on the starter motor, and am having a gear extension part machined up tomorrow to sort out the starter motor/ring gear mesh issue. With that done the engine can be perminently bolted back into the car.
Other small things acomplished.... Ive now got a fuel cooler mounted in the middle of the front beam area on the fuel return line. Its borderline overkill for the low boost application, but for a high boost tune a 2nd, or much larger pump will be installed and then I will be needing it as the larger pumps tend to heat up and even boil the fuel after sustained running. Ive seen this commonly with the 044 and 040 pumps.
Started on wiring today too. The headlight wiring which is using a Xenon HID H1 setup in the 911 headlight assemblies is now installed. Im getting stuck into wiring next week. The exhaust header will be ceramic coated next week and re-fitted to the car again too. Thats all for now.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
WOWSERS DUDE.... nice work👍
colonel mustard ·
extreme man 🙂 love it.
Beetspeed ·
Love your flywheel/clutch set-up!
Very curieus how the pedal feel will be for driving off from stand-still. Heard good and bad stories about not using center springs.
dangerous ·
It looks like it is all coming together there Ian.
And that is a damn sexy engine now too!
Aaron knew all about that series 5 rx7 inputshaft, since his bus has a 20BRotary AND Porsche trans.
matberry ·
Fantastic work Ian. A real credit to you.
2443TT ·
Thanks guys.
Made a little more progress today. The header and turbine housings are now coated with a ceramic primer, which was this afternoons progress. They get a coating of turbo x black ceramic tomorrow.
Also sourced a relay and fuse box from a late model kia rio today. It will become the main power distribution point for all the car's power. It came with 4 great heavy duty mult-pin connectors, which i'll be using to allow the engine to be wired through a single connector. Hope to put in a big day on it tomorrow.
Cheers,
Ian
Flintstones ·
That's one hot engine Ian.
Looks much better with the black rocker covers.
Cheers
D
2443TT ·
Ok long time no post again. I had some major engineering challanges come up that required some creative engineering to work around.
The first was the starter motor pinion. That actually turned out to be easy. What turned into a mission was just getting the engine back in the car. The gearbox had been fitted with a SAAB 900 input shaft mounted throw out slave cylinder and throw out bearing. The problem was that it was 15mm too tall so the engine wouldnt fit. I had a go at altering the saab bearing by machining the pistons and the housing a bit to get less height but in the end i could only get it down another 10mm so Ive had to source something else. A few day's of googling and I found this:
This is a Howe racing billet throw out bearing, courtasy of Summit racing in the US. $250+USD later, but it was the only way I was going to get this to fit. The height of this bearing compressed is only 40mm.
The inside of the bearing is designed to slip on a colar that goes around the input shaft. Completely diferent to the Saab bearing. It also has an o-ring on the inside, which is there to stop the bearing slipping around all over the place, not to actually seal anything. The piston is visible in this picture, and is the center part that pushes the billet outer part (with the hose fittings connected) forward towards the pressure plate.
So with a butchered saab throwout bearing in my posession I decided to use the inner piston of this bearing to make the collar that the howe bearing could slide on. The alloy mounting plate was machined with an interference fit, and then heated to allow the inner colar to be slipped in. I havnt done a lot of this sort of thing, and I admit i get a huge buzz out of having succeeded in making this thing. Then having it actually work!. The pin you see coming out of the mounting plate is used to stop the bearing assembly from spinning in the bell housing. I put a seal inside this plate as well to seal onto the input shaft.
Next in goes the bearing. Fluid supply via the lower hose and a remote bleeder on the top. The bearing has a maximum of about 12mm throw, but that is determined by the master cylinder size. A data sheet provided showed the 3/4" master cylinder I had chosen for this to be perfect for getting 5-6mm throw which is required to operate the kennedy pressure plate. I can adjust free play and preload on the actuator that links the pedal to the master cylinder.
Last of all was the absolute bitch of a job of trying to get the engine back in. I'd done the clutch twin plate alighment a few weeks ago using a borrowed RX7 input shaft but after my first installation attempt of the engine, the plates had all moved. I wasnt able to get hold of the guy I had borred it from again, so ended up using an old vw input shaft with a ton of tape wrapped around it.... which didnt align the spines. 3 attempts, a lot of profanity and 2 hrs later I finally got it in.
So the engine is now bolted in at last! Next tomorow will be installation of the header and the turbo's and intercooler plumbing. The only chalanges remaining are setting up the oil supply lines for the turbo's, and the engine oil supply/return and thermostat. Of course there is wiring the ecu, too.
Other progress.... The car is now wired for the most part. All dash gauges, main relay and fuse box, fuel pump, LED indicators (mounted inside the 911 headlamps), parkers, and incredably bright Xenon HID 6000K H1 headlights. Its not an understatement to say that the lights on the VW are now easily as good if not better than that which are on my GTR. Simply amazing, and well worth the money that getting new genuine german porsche 911 headlamp assemblies. Ive sealed the headlamp to the guards using some pinch weld rubber. Its a bit bigger than I would have liked, but the look is growing on me.
Had to pull the tank so I could fill the clutch master cylinder with fluid. Going to bleed the brakes tomorrow too before it all goes back together properly.
Thats all for now. Hope to have more to post tomorrow or thursday.
Cheers,
Ian
grogy ·
great work, a real sophisticated bug, looking forward to the seeing finished product
2443TT ·
Thanks mate.
Oh yeah, i forgot to mention... the clutch feels like steeping on a marshmellow. Very smooth in its operation, and because its only a 1700lb plate it should be pretty streetable still with any luck.
SLAPPA ·
Looking good Ian....
dangerous ·
What was the solution to extend the starter pinion Ian?
Getting close now!!
vassy66T1 ·
Fantastic Ian!!!
How fast is that little fuel tank going to drain? I love the colour, the motor, the headlights ......
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
6000k headlights!!!!! Cops are sooo gonna love you mate LOL
Had a mate with 5000k and he got pulled up all the time and people were always flashing high beam at him which was funny.
Good to see engine has finally found it's home!!
2443TT ·
I fully expect to be stopped regularly bo the cops when driving this on the road. I'll definatly be carrying around copies of the engineering paperwork with me so I dont have to get the car inspected every time it happens. I dont think i'll be driving at night all that often so im not too concerned about the colour of the lights.
Here's some pics of the modified starter motor drive setup. Dave had made the alloy adapter for the box when he had it in his posession, but ive machined a little off both sides of it to narrow it about 15mm.
I then got the toyota camry 3S starter, remove the splined pinion gear, and machined off the gear part so I had a spline to fit the starter. I then made a sleeve to extend the pinion another 15mm that accepts a standard vw pinion gear from a german 12v starter motor. The splined part is then held in place with a grub screw to a flattened section on the splined output shaft on the starter.
Im pretty happy with how its turned out, but the tolerances in the drive mechanism of the starter leave a little to be desired. Im not sure if this is typical for these toyota gear drive starters or if i just have a cheap non-genuine one. When it throws out though it seems to tighten everything up and there is less movement when its at full extension. I wont know if its going to work till i give it a go i guess.
Cheers,
Ian
STIDUB ·
awesome progress, its been awhile since i looked at this, how is the headlight mounted into the bucket itself? doesnt have any mounting screws visable & thats what i want with mine eventuallly...
2443TT ·
STIDUB wrote:awesome progress, its been awhile since i looked at this, how is the headlight mounted into the bucket itself? doesnt have any mounting screws visable & thats what i want with mine eventuallly...
Ive used a hook at the top and bottom of the headlight to hook onto the headlight trim from the inside. These hooks are basicly a piece of flat 1mm steel plate, bent appropriately and bolted to the headlight bucket in the guard. The bolt holes in the guard are slotted so I can pull the headlight back flush against the guard.
There are no visible screws from the outside of the headlamps. The porsche headlight trim doesnt have the little tab at the bottom that the vw headlamps have.
Smiley ·
This is looking absolutely insane Ian! It's good to see the projesct is starting to draw to a close. The finished product is a credit to all the hard you've put and it's turned out amazing.
I'm loving the slave cylinder inside the bellhousing idea. I'm going to look into something like this for the hydraulic clutch I'm putting on my buggy.
Smiley
Flintstones ·
Impressive!!!
I still can't get over how wide those guards are 😵💫👍👍
cheers
D
2443TT ·
Another update...
The brake fluid resivour is now full and the car now has brakes. I have mounted the battery inside the car on the front firewall, and the main power wiring to the front of the car is now done.
The basic car wiring is all but done now too. I just need to wire tail lights and make a new variable windscreen wiper controller. The speedo is now wired to the ABS sensors on the left front wheel hub, and seems to work though it will need to be re-calibrated once the car is driving again.
The loom kit for the ecu wont arrive till tuesday or wednesday next week. That part of the car is being wired very seperately from the rest of the car, using a single connector to allow the engine to be easily unplugged and disconnected should removal be required.
Ive got the main part of the turbo header back on the car too and both turbo's mounted. No pictures of that just yet. Its not finished so im holding out toll tomorrow properly before taking more photos of that. Ive got to make up some new wastegate actuator mounts too, as because the housings have been rotated the standard mounts put the actuator rod in the wrong place to operate the wastegate flaps. Should be pretty easy to sort out though.
Cheers,
Ian
Flintstones ·
What wiring kit did you end up deciding to use Ian?
Cheers
D
2443TT ·
The wiring panel is from a late model kia rio. It uses the modern micro blade fuses and fits pretty good. The rest of the loom is custom. No kit as such.
Cheers,
Ian
STIDUB ·
most interesting/unusual battery placement ive seen to this day 👍
waltermitty ·
Ian the lack of update is very unsatisfactory!
No good enough. especially now as you / we are just about on the gravy stroke this is extremely frustrating!
Dont loose sight of the fact that there has been well over 50,000 views of this post and there must be many other post storkers like myself desperate for another fix!
Regards Frustrated 😵😵💫🙄
JVLRacing ·
CRAFT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!😎
2443TT ·
Sorry guys the past few weeks have been pretty crazy. I had surgery on my jaw and took a week off everything, and then out and bought a house.
Ive made a little more progress with the car. The pressure side of the induction side of the engine is now in the car. I'd like to share some photo's but managed to lose my camera. I still need to do the air intakes for the turbo's. The alternator is now wired and installed, fan belt, and the starter motor in and wired.
Ive been focusing on wiring for the moment. All the injectors and sensors for the EFI are installed and wired to a short loom, which I will be terminating to a multi-pin plug tomorrow. Ive yet to run the main supply and return lines for the oil system, but the fittings for that, plus the thermostat and all the plumbing for the front mounted oil coolers is all on its way from the US. That should hopefully be here inside a week.
All going well my house settles on the 23rd, so i'll me moving over the christmas-new year break. So the goal is to get as much done as possible on the car till then... The less parts to box up the better is the plan.
Hopefully i'll find that camera soon too.
Cheers,
Ian
1303Steve ·
Hi
Looking good, I trust the new house has a good shed or room for one.
Just in case the starter doesn't work out, Bigrudi on here told me about these people that do starters HI-TORQUE by IMI PERFORMANCE http://www.enginecentre.com.au/starters.html, he's fitting a 915 trans to a Type 1.
Steve
reub ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Looking good, I trust the new house has a good shed or room for one.
Just in case the starter doesn't work out, Bigrudi on here told me about these people that do starters HI-TORQUE by IMI PERFORMANCE http://www.enginecentre.com.au/starters.html, he's fitting a 915 trans to a Type 1.
Steve
I won't deal with the engine centre ever again.....once bitten, twice shy!
ps. you can get them direct fromt the states...
1303Steve ·
Woops, thats good to know
2443TT ·
Yep the new house has a huge double bay shed with plenty of room for a hoist too. The starter motor drive looks pretty radical but the gear is only really 14mm past where the factory toyota drive gear was. If it fails to work it will be due to the movement in the shaft. If that happens i'll make a supporting shaft arrangement that will eliminate any side to side movement of the pinion..
JVLRacing ·
reub wrote:
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Looking good, I trust the new house has a good shed or room for one.
Just in case the starter doesn't work out, Bigrudi on here told me about these people that do starters HI-TORQUE by IMI PERFORMANCE http://www.enginecentre.com.au/starters.html, he's fitting a 915 trans to a Type 1.
Steve
I won't deal with the engine centre ever again.....once bitten, twice shy!
ps. you can get them direct fromt the states...
x2 on that reubs
Bugaru03 ·
This is fu...ing porn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
2443TT ·
Hi Everyone,
Well its been a while but today I finally went out and bought a new camera. So here's the long over-due update at last.
The main challange (and expense) of late has been working out an effective way to route the supply and return oil lines for the dry sump system. Ive got it all planned now, but still need to make the purchase. I'll be using bulkhead fittings to route oil through the front firewall under the fuel tank into the driver compartment, where I will then be running the supply and return oil lines through the hot air tubes that run through the body to the back of the car. There they will terminate to another bulkhead setup mounted on the rear firewall, and finally on to the pump. Supply lines will be -16 and return will be a -12. The return goes back to the thermostat and then straight into the tank.
In the meantime though the plumbing for the front oil coolers and thermostat is 95% completed. The thermostati is also fixed in place and will soon have a bracked made up for it that will hold it to one of the factory tank mounts to make the whole setup more rigid.
Oil cooler lines are all in -10 stainless braided hose.
The engine is now installed again, turbo header mounted, and turbo's installed. The header and turbines are internally ceramic coated with an aluminium/ceramic coating and externally coated with turbo x.
Oil supply and returns for the turbo's are finished. Ive used a short 5/16th hard line/banjo fitting at the turbo end and it terminates to a -4 AN fitting. The oil supply for the turbo's is in the block and splits off to 2 -4 AN fittings as well. Ive put an oil restrictor in the block end of the arrangement to keep it all simple.
Fan shroud all bolted into place now too.
This is how the rear end looks now. The engine is now 90% wired as well. Ive completed wiring for all the sensors and injectors. All that remains is the ignition system, which is currently on hold till I move to my new house inside the next 2 weeks. (9th Woo Hoo!). The new shed is great too! 6x6 meters and plenty of room for a hoist.
The plan for the ignition system is to use 4 x Blaster SS ECore coils with an MSD DIS 4 CDI system. As the ignition is distributorless I want to operate the ignition as a 4 coil-on-plug system, as opposed to a 2 coil/waste spark arrangement. It makes for a more tidy wiring too as the cylinders can all have short wiring to the coils. As opposed to centrally mounted coils and long leads to the cylinder pairs.
A few more pics of the wiring.
This is the power distribution panel from a Kia Rio. The micro fuses, and modern relays are great and better yet it fits there like it was made for a VW.
Ive got all the electronic gauges wired now as well. There is a 30 wire numbered multi-core wire that runs through the car to the back carrying signals forward for the gauges, and also control signals for the fuel pump and thermo fans from the Ecu.
Thats about all for the moment.
Cheers,
Ian
Craig S ·
WOW!! 😵😵😵
cam070 ·
One word, MASTERPIECE!
063bug ·
Constantly amazed by the quantity of work and level of detail on this project 😵💫👍
Flintstones ·
impressive Ian.
I'm a bit concerned about the oil lines going under the spare wheel well though. You couldn't have run it behind?
Cheers
D
2443TT ·
There isnt going to be a spare wheel?
Another update.
I finished the mount for the crank angle sensor today. The sensor is actualy an ABS sensor from a porsche 944 so im keeping it german. The sensor will detect 2 bolts that are screwed into the back of the crank at 60 degrees BTDC.
I also finished off the dump pipe for the drivers side turbo, mounted the wastegate actuator, and added some aluminium heat shielding. The heat shielding is a folded/laminated mix of aluminium and some sort of fibrous heat shielding material (looks like asbestos so im sure its not). They use this stuff in the XR6 turbo's from factory and its very effective. While I am hopeful the ceramic coatings will do a good job to keep the temps down, Im taking no chances with the paint being as close to the heat as it is.
Thats all for today.
Cheers,
Ian
Sides ·
Looks awesome Ian, and getting oh-so-close... do you have the "startup party" planned yet ???
😉
Any chance you could post some pics on the oil lines back to the engine ??? I'm thinking of putting my oil tank up front also, so curious to see how/where you've run your lines... the feed one mainly...
Flintstones ·
2443TT wrote:There isnt going to be a spare wheel?
I can see that there's no chance of that with the dry sump tank claiming the area.
It's the below pic that show's the oil line under the wheel well. I'd be worried about the oil line getting damaged if it came into contact with debris that was on the road. That's why I mentioned about routing the oil line behind the wheel well...
Cheers
D
2443TT ·
Ah... Now I see what you mean. Its nearly impossible to see from that picture, but the hose is actually cable tied on top of a steel plate (not to the bodywork. Those stainless hoses will rub through anything too). Its this plate that is the lowest point on the car at the front, not the hose. The plate also supports the oil coolers inside each guard and is itself attached to the body with 8mm high tensile bolts. I wouldnt use the plate as a jack point, but the stee plate is as strong as hell, so it will take quite a hit to damage anything there. Even then the bodywork would be damaged before the hoses would be.
Today's progress saw the completion of the wastegate actuator mount for the left side turbo, and fabrication of the air intake for that turbo. Heat shielding is done as well. As has become my typical form it has turned out way better than the drivers side, so I may well be re-making the drivers side again tomorrow. Im starting to think about air boxes and air filters now too.
If only I had oil lines and an ignition system! I cant wait to hear the car come to life.
Dave, no plans for a "startup party" as of yet. Sadly there are no local VW nutters that are as into modifying their cars like I am. There is a VW club up here again now though but they arent very active. So I'll most likely just call Reub and give the engine a few revs over the phone and post a bunch of video on the internet.
My usual tradition when starting up a new engine is get it running, do the cam break in, oil change, and then drive to the service station without the engine lid on (hopefully avoiding police), and buy a coke. Then relax and watch passers by jaws drop when they see whats in the back of the car!
I'll be sure to post pics of the oil supply and return lines when I get to installing them.
Cheers,
Ian
063bug ·
....what no local competition and you build one of the most complex bugs in the country..... go figure 😀 that can of coke will taste soooo sweet
Flintstones ·
2443TT wrote:Ah... Now I see what you mean. Its nearly impossible to see from that picture, but the hose is actually cable tied on top of a steel plate (not to the bodywork. Those stainless hoses will rub through anything too). Its this plate that is the lowest point on the car at the front, not the hose. The plate also supports the oil coolers inside each guard and is itself attached to the body with 8mm high tensile bolts. I wouldnt use the plate as a jack point, but the stee plate is as strong as hell, so it will take quite a hit to damage anything there. Even then the bodywork would be damaged before the hoses would be.
Phew, that's a relief!!🙂
2443TT wrote:My usual tradition when starting up a new engine is get it running, do the cam break in, oil change, and then drive to the service station without the engine lid on (hopefully avoiding police), and buy a coke. Then relax and watch passers by jaws drop when they see whats in the back of the car!
Cheers,
Ian
The cops wouldn't even have a chance at catching you, with all that upgraded suspension, brakes and driveline😂😉
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
I think i speak for most on here that if I lived close enough i certainly would book a front row seat for the start up party!! as for the drive to the servo for a Coke there had better be video footage!!
Sides ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:there had better be video footage!!
Oh yeah - I hope so too !!!
2443TT ·
Maybe I should try do one of those webcasts! Broadcast the startup of the engine live... How much of a computer geek does that make me sound like?
I nade a little more progress with the car today. I have been working on the air intakes for the turbo's and came to the conclusion that I didnt like any of the pressure side of the intake and intercoolling plumbing that I had already done. It basicly made it impossible to get good straight airflow to the turbo's. So I have re-worked the whole intake system, moved the intercooler and changed the piping around a lot.
The end result is a VAST improvement over what was there before. Everything is solid mounted to either the engine or the gearbox, so it all moves as one unit. Air intakes are 3" to 2.5" at the compressor housings and are virtually a straight line. Sorry no pictures as of yet as its all in pieces again at the moment. I need to source some more 3" stainless tube so I can finish it all off properly, so its on hold till next week now.
Cheers,
Ian
hellbugged ·
2443TT wrote:I nade a little more progress with the car today. I have been working on the air intakes for the turbo's and came to the conclusion that I didnt like any of the pressure side of the intake and intercoolling plumbing that I had already done. It basicly made it impossible to get good straight airflow to the turbo's.
o dear........chasing every last poofteenth of power now.............bloody nutbag, time to institutionalise Mr Swinkles i think
BigWigRaceCars ·
Wow. This is one of the best build threads I've seen. Great work! I just spent a full 1/2 day looking through this thread from the beginning (at work). If I get fired, I'm blaming you.
Sides ·
Two weeks without updates... I'm starting to have withdrawal symptoms !!!
😁
2443TT ·
Hi all,
Ive been moving house for the last weeks but am finally in. The new shed is great too. Smaller but a lot better laid out.
I hope to be getting stuck back into the VW soon. I still need to order an ignition system and the main oil supply and return lines but thats about all thats needed to get the engine started for the first time.
The main project at the moment is un-packing, and of course I also have a fair amount of minor house repairs to do as well. There isnt enough hours in the day at the moment.
Cheers,
Ian
cam070 ·
Where asre your priorities? Car first!
Just kiddin, but I know I am not the only one waiting for updates here. Hope the new place is good and you are in and unpacked soon.
BigWigRaceCars ·
What are you planning to use for the chargecooler heat exchanger, and where will you fit it? That car is getting full.
2443TT ·
Its been too long since being able to work on the car and post an update. After moving house I've had to make a few repairs to the new place, and that then got all out of hand like many of my projects. What started with some gardening and some roof guttering repairs turned into replacing 1600+ roofing iron screws, pressure blasting and painting the entire roof, and replacing all the guttering and flashing. Fortunatly I will be finished this weekend, so I hope to be able to spend a lot more time in the new shed in weeks to come.
Ive had another lot of earls fittings and a heap of -12 and -16 oil hose arrive for the oil supply and return lines, and have been able to finish all the engines oil lines and cooler lines. Ignition coils have arrived as well, but I still need to source an MSD DIS4 CDI unit. Here are some pics...
Earls oil thermostat attached to the return line from the oil pump diverts oil through the oil coolers if necessary and then returns to the tank. Supply and return lines will hopefully be run this weekend. The tank has a diagonal brace to make the mounts more rigid too, not that you can see it from that angle.
All the engine oil lines, turbo oil supply lines and returns are all done now too. Only pump supply and returns need to be finished now. That and wiring the ignition system and Im pretty sure the engine will be ready to test fire.
This is the new setup for the intercooler. The heat barrel is mounted rigid to the gearbox, so it all moves as one unit with the engine.I've had to use silicon bends all over the place to allow joins and tight radius's, but the result is acceptable and it shouldnt blow apart once the pipes are flaired a little. This revised setup allows a 3" air intake directly into a 3" to 2.5" elbow to feed each turbo. Meaning virtually no intake restriction at all.
This is the new shed! Car one side, workshop the other side. I stil need to unpack but that wont stop me from working on the car once time permits again.
Hope to have another update on sunday night.
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
Looks pretty serious dude. Man is this thing going to be scarey 👍
vassy66T1 ·
Ian, I shake my head in awe every time I see this car.
Great work and your perseverance is commendable/outstanding!!
Can't wait to see it one day.
Sides ·
Looks awesome Ian !!!
👍
Any chance of some pics on where you've run your oil lines from the front to the rear... and have you gone braided for the full length, or hardline for the majority of it with the braid just at either end ???
matberry ·
Brilliant work Ian 👍👍👍
Ollie ·
Woah...
Words can't describe how amazing this car is.
I just spent half of "Tango and Cash" (It's playing on Channel 9 - don't judge me!) flicking through this entire thread and can't believe this car is coming together so well! The fact that you have my favorite car in the world (R34 GTR) and an insane bug makes me green with envy! I can't wait to see the updates continue to filter through amongst the admiration from every follower on here.
On a side note, what mods have you done to Godzilla?
Cheers,
Ollie
2443TT ·
Sorry but no update. I spent the weekend workiing on roof doing guttering and flashing, and am now very close to having it all sorted out. I dont think I ever want to do this kind of work again though with any luck i'll be done with the house repairs before the weekend and I can start to play with cars again.
OMClarke wrote:Woah...
Words can't describe how amazing this car is.
I just spent half of "Tango and Cash" (It's playing on Channel 9 - don't judge me!) flicking through this entire thread and can't believe this car is coming together so well! The fact that you have my favorite car in the world (R34 GTR) and an insane bug makes me green with envy! I can't wait to see the updates continue to filter through amongst the admiration from every follower on here.
On a side note, what mods have you done to Godzilla?
Cheers,
Ollie
Thanks Ollie, glad you enjoyed the read.
My R34 is only mildly tuned at the moment. Its was a standard R34 GTR S-Tune which basicly means all Nismo factory options (S-tune suspension, carbon fibre bits and v-spec aero parts, and side and front airbags). So its like a vspec but without the active LSD and with all the sound proofing.
Ive since added a tunable ecu, slotted rotors, wideband AFR system and a Nismo 80mm exhaust. Ive also built a pretty crazy 450kw engine upgrade for it too, but that project is on hold till the VW is running. Have a look at http://www.odengines.com if your interested in it, thats my other sideline "project". Too many projects...
I race the R34 in sprint events occasionally. It is truely an awesome car to drive. There is nothing ive ever driven or been in that feels so planted and controllable. They are a car that you can safely push beyond the limit. While a 2wd car would be off the track, the gtr just keeps on giving. They do eat tyres though. 6 sprint events per year, 4 x 4 lap runs at each event and it will totally destroy a set of tyres.
Awesome work, some fantastic fabrications going on!
Just a little info for you we used the largest PWR intercooler on one of the turbo cars over here, it was next to useless, air temps were over 85oC at the top of the 1/4
switched over to a HKS unit and it never went over 21oC.
good luck with it, looking forward to seeing the results of twin turbos.
Regards
Martin
2443TT ·
Martin Taylor wrote:Just a little info for you we used the largest PWR intercooler on one of the turbo cars over here, it was next to useless, air temps were over 85oC at the top of the 1/4
switched over to a HKS unit and it never went over 21oC.
I ran a smaller PWR barrel cooler in my 2332cc turbo vw engine. I found the efficency of it to be very good, as over a 1/4 mile blast the air temp would only rise about 4-6 degrees over ambient temps. I used a 10 litre coolant resivour as well though to help slow heat soak of the coolant though too. Setup is everything.
If it was a front engined car you ar referring to that you then switched to a HKS core, then your 100% right. Its hard to go past the quality of those units. I had one in my R33 GTR and it would always sit very close to ambient temps, provided you had some good forward momentum. Anything above 80km/h and a good front mount is unbeatable.
Shame the VW's have no frontal area for mounting a decent size air-air intercooler. Unless you want to put in a core in a wing over the engine like they do on the turbo/GT2 porsches.
I had a break from working on my roof guttering and flashing today (its still not finished), and instead started plumbing my oil lines at last. After much consideration I have decided to not run the hoses through the heater channels. There is too much risk of kinking a hose. Instead they will be running down the pasenger side of the car next to the heater channel.
Here are a few pics.
Bulkhead fittings. -12 return, -16 supply lines. I used black nylon hoses as the intention was to run them through the heater channels and stainless braid tends to rub through everything it touches. Nylon wont damage what it comes into contact with.
-16 from the tank so there is as little restriction as possible on the supply side of the pump.
And finally how it looks with everything bolted back together.
More fittings are on order to finish the rest of it off.
Cheers,
Ian
Martin Taylor ·
The car in question was in a beetle. we convert the HKS intercoolers into charge coolers by welding a jacket on them
the turbo is a 40/94 hybrid from the the 40/88 Garret roller bearing unit. Running 28 psi of boost generating 540 rwhp.
the water pump for the intercooler is a davis craig 110 ltr/min pumping from a storage(ice) tank in the car. using -16 hoses
we were just disappointed with how it performed. the hks unit has nailed it now
Great thread by the way 😉
Martin
Sides ·
Yikes... -16 supply lines, that's some serious flow you're gonna have !!! Very neat too how you've run them... more things to throw into the thinking for mine.
Keep up the brilliant work Ian... tho we all know that you will... I for one am eagerly waiting to read an "it's alive !!!" post...
👍
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
So Warwick this year she should be a start up competitor??? no pressure or anything mate lol.......
2443TT ·
Martin Taylor wrote:the turbo is a 40/94 hybrid from the the 40/88 Garret roller bearing unit. Running 28 psi of boost generating 540 rwhp.
Martin, sounds like you've got one hell of a crazy drag bug there. Good god thats a massive turbo! Isnt that huffer rated at something like 850hp? Since your not afraid of using jap parts on your vw, im surprised you didnt consider the T88 or the HKS T51 KAI or TO4z. Ive used 8cm trust T517z's on my car.
Sides wrote:Yikes... -16 supply lines, that's some serious flow you're gonna have !!! Very neat too how you've run them... more things to throw into the thinking for mine.
Its not so much about high flow as it is about having the smallest possible restriction on the suction side of the pump. -16 is the recommended size if the tank is trunk mounted in any car.
So I finally got to spend a 1/2 day on the VW today. The oil system is now finished and ive also mounted the ignition coils. I only need to source a 4 chanel coil pack ignitor and finish the ignition side wiring and the car should be ready to start.
While the oil lines are running through the car, i dont expect them to radiate too much heat as the hose material is al synthetic, not steel. Time will tell, it might end up covered with an insulation sheath if its too hot. Passenger seating comfort isnt really a priority anyway.
And at last... the engine as it looks now. Just needs plug leads and a coil pack ignitor now.
Might get some more time to work on it mid week all going well. Sourcing the parts for the right price is the issue. I want to use a coil pack ignitor from a Nissan SR20, or RB20/25/30, or VG30 as I know these work really well in this application. However the prices being asked for these 2nd hand is a fair percentage of an MSD DIS 4 (which was my original plan).
Cheers,
Ian
Flintstones ·
Cool. Not long now.
Certainly going to move volumes of oil around with those lines👍
That battery location still spins me out😵💫
Cheers
2443TT ·
Quick update.
Finished making some HT ignition leads yesterday, and I've just sourced some bosch ignitors. So with a little wiring tomorrow the car only needs fuel and oil and in theory I should be starting it this weekend!
There will be video. I'll keep you all posted!
Cheers,
Ian
colonel mustard ·
nice!
Dasdubber ·
2443TT wrote:The goal is to have it finished in 5 months.
Cheers,
Ian Swinkels
G'day Ian, great work mate - getting to the very exciting stage now!
I've spent the last hour and a half looking back through your thread, amazing work....I can totally empathise with your statement in your first post - I think every project I've been involved with has taken three times as long as expected (or more!)
Cheers
Al 🙂
2443TT ·
LOL! 5 Months! I hope that claim was made before I decided to respray the body of the car!
I wired and installed the Bosch ignitors this afternoon. I just need to connect the 4 trigger wires from the ignitor bank to the ecu ignition output channels, and run power to the new coil loom. So the ignition system is nearly complete.
While doing this I noticed that I havent installed a voltage regulator for the alternator, so thats one of the things high on my list to track down tomorrow morning.
I also primed the 4 oil pump stages and tipped 8lt of oil into the tank. That barely made a dent. I think the oil lines and coolers are holding about 4lt. I then used a dril to run the pump and immediatly got oil pressure, 60psi on the dash gauge.
Not long now!
matberry ·
Cool, you must be excited dude.....we are!
Keep it up.
Good luck with the fire up😀.
colonel mustard ·
enjoy the can of coke.. 🙂
sounds like its going to be a fun oil change...
2443TT ·
Well it seems I wont have the engine running this weekend. I was all ready for startup this morning but initial cranking tests revealed the sensor ive used for crankshaft position sensoring is generating vibration based electrical noise, and as a result is causing false triggering. So im at a stand still till next week when I can replace the sensor with something else. Ah well... thats cars!
reub ·
Bugger dude... ah well, that's life hey - as I too have found😁
2443TT ·
Another update.
I have now got new hall effect sensors on the crank and cam now, and signaling is working perfectly.
But, when I attempted to start the engine again today the engine kicked back and broke the starter motor pinion. The "interference fit" method I used to hold the starter pinion to the spline on the starter isnt holding anymore, so when the starter turns the pinion doesnt once it engages the flywheel.
I could weld it all solid but have instead opted to buy a new pinion and sort out out once and for all. So it will probably be another week before I get a chance to start it again. Joys...
Boostn ·
To be expected when you modify things so much.
Keep it going it will be worth it.
looking good
Sides ·
Bummer Ian, but hey... considering the level of the rest of the car, I expect your "sort it out once and for all" will result in something close to bullet proof !!!
👍
2443TT ·
Indeed these are just small teething issues so they say. Now that the new crank and cam sensors are installed, the triggering the engine was receiving when being cranked was perfectly clean. So I hope to have that same kind of success improving the starter motor drive.
Speaking of which, the new pinion arrived from custom vee dub today. Not in time to sort out a new drive for the weekend though. Ive also purchased another toyota camry starter motor to score another pinion throw out shaft.
The plan is to machine the two shafts in such a way that they lock together. I am still undecided as to weather that will be an interference fit with welding, or if I will machine a thread onto the two parts so they lock together. The shafts are solid and about a 1/2" in diameter so coming up with a method that is strong enough to survive the torque of the shaft twisting is going to be the challange. I am also considering looking for another reduction drive type starter motor that I might be able to source another compatible throw out shaft from that will be te necessary 12mm longer.
There is one other option as well. I could tig weld the hell out of the reduction drive housing on the starter motor to modify it so that I can eliminate the adapter in the gearbox, and just bolt the starter directly into the bell housing.
Clearly I need to spend a good 1/2 day just looking at the options and taking measurements again.
2443TT ·
Had some success today solving the starter motor challenge. I put in a tech support call to Dangerous Dave and he was able to spark some inspiration in me to come up with a new solution.
This is the pinion drive shaft and bearing supported carrier shaft from the reduction drive starter. The carrier shaft has a gear cut inside it that fits the gear on the end of the pinion drive shaft, so the pinion throws out when the starter is engaged. I figured if I cant reliably extend the 12mm diameter drive shaft, then why not extend the length of the whole support shaft.
So here is the end result. The support shaft has been extended about 30mm total at the end where its diameter is its largest (about 22mm). The join is just in front of the main drive gear. I machined up a thick piece of chomoly tube and jammed it into the back of the carrier shaft (18mm) with a 1 thou interference fit to a depth of about 25mm. I then welded the join and re-spun the whole lot in the lathe again.
While there is an interference fit join there, this time its twice the length of my previous effort and its welded and supported by bearings at each end. With any luck this will survive the torque that is transmitted through the shaft when cranking.
And here's a pic of the starter, ready to be put back into the car tomorrow.
As luck would have it though, I have to work tomorrow morning. Hopefully it wont turn into an all dayer and I will get another chance at starting the car.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
Finally.... The "ITS ALIVE" post!
I bolted the starter motor in today and to my surprise it actually worked very well first go. I will likely have to adjust the meshing a little but it was engaging well enough to start the car.
It took a little to get it running, mostly due to EFI trigger configuration issues, and having flooded it, but as of about 5:30 this afternoon the engine came to life. I completed the camshaft break and made a few adjustments to try and get the idle speed down below 1500.
My ears are still ringing from the experience. The initial startup was done with the exhaust running straight out the 3" dumps. It has a very deep note too.
I had time to make this short video on my phone just before I ran out of fuel. Please excuse the crappy quality, and length. I need to get a memory card for my camera so I can take a video longer than 15 seconds. It was nearly dark too which didnt help.
All in all im pretty happy with today's progress. There is plenty to do but now im on the home stretch. Bolting guards and rear valence panel on tomorrow so I can finish the exhaust off is a priority. It will be nice to see the 10" tyres covered wide ass fenders!
The ceramic exhaust coating is truely awesome! After doing the camshaft breakin, I could touch the back of my hand to the headers right next to the cylinder head. It felt hot but did not burn at all. The surface temp was no more than about 70 degres.
The oil system worked a treat as well. Thermostat was hot, coolers were hot. Thermofans came on as expected, and it just sat on 150 degrees the whole time. Perfect!
Thats all for today!
Cheers,
Ian
reub ·
Friggin awesome dude!!!!!!!
HUGE congrats.👍
silver ·
Well done! I know its a great feeling on a first start up, but yours is some strange beast,, must be awesome
Dasdubber ·
Congratulations Ian, great to hear it finally come to life.
Al
Bizarre ·
Go have a beer or five 👍
vassy66T1 ·
What an accomplishment !!
Sounds mean 😀
matberry ·
Congratulations.
Awesome
trickysimon ·
Woohoo!
555bug ·
an astonishing achievement, you should be proud 🙂
Sides ·
Awesome news Ian !!!
Bet you can almost taste that bottle of Coke now hey...
👍
Flintstones ·
Great news Ian, well done on getting it fired up.
Won't be long now till you get to plant your foot down 😁 and we all want to see the vid of that!!!
Cheers
D
humpty ·
Astounding effort Ian.... You gotta be stoked?
Bring on the in-car vid!!!!
2443TT ·
Thanks for the comments guys.
It has been a big push to get the engine running this past few weeks. I needed to feel like i'd made some good progress with the car at last. Nothing motivates like the sound of an engine running!
Today was the long over-due workshop cleanup before I get stuck into the car again. Did all the leg work sourcing parts to make that happen today as well. Hardware to hold the back of the car together, and ordering a custom made throttle cable.
The muffler situation is proving to be a challange. Im trying to source some 3" mufflers that dont look too "ricer". Most of the 3" cannons ive seen come with a 4.5" tip which is pretty crazy. Also checked on the legality of side pipes. I can do a single 3" side pipe on the drivers side of the car only. Its not legal to run twin side pipes (wonders about the AC Cobra though...). So it will probably end up being a dump to the ground behind the rear tyre.
I should have some pictures of a widebody bug to post tomorrow all going well. Im going to score a digital video camera too, so I can take a better quality vid of the engine running. My camera phone footage was pretty crappy....
Cheers,
Ian
ricola ·
That's awesome news, can't wait to see pics of the bug wearing all its body panels and sitting on the ground!
Rich
DavoBuggy 1641 ·
wicked dude
Flintstones ·
where's the pics ....... and the vid!!
getting anxious waiting🙂
Cheers
D
2443TT ·
Sorry no pics or new vid just yet, just the crappy phone one I posted the other day. I ended up having to work the whole day today, so I didnt have time to get stuck into the car again. Im going to try and borrow Wibble's DV camera equipment for the weekend, so I can make a decent video.
2443TT ·
Had a fairly full day with work today but managed to get the time to give the bug a clean, and put 2/3's of the back of the car on again. Im actually kind of stunned how it looks! 😂 I think ive definatly been able to keep within the original design concept of having a car that is un-mistakeably VW, yet engineered completely beyond insanity.
The rear valence went on no problems. Just had to move two oil lines around on their fittings a tiny bit and there is plenty of space and no rubbing at all.
Ive got to finish the plan for the exhaust now. It will either be a 3" outlet straight backwards under the valence/guard seams, or a bent downward dump behind each rear wheel, so the pipe will be barely visible from the back of the car. The second idea will allow wheelie bars to easily clear the exhaust too so its probably the smarter way to go.
Here are the photo's.
Cheers,
Ian
JVLRacing ·
piecing together nicely😎
trickysimon ·
Jesus Christ that thing is wide!😵😵
hellbugged ·
Great stuff Ian!
Re the dump pipes......don't point them to the ground, being a black and ultra detailed car you'll never forgive yourself........all they will do is stir up dust, dust ,DUST 🙅.......everywhere you go, local car parks, show arenas, return roads at the drags blah blah......endless detailing every time you drive it
Seen plenty of hot rods with down pipes turn up here for the week long show and they certainly don't look the same a few days later
yes for the vids, can't wait!
Flintstones ·
That certainly is phat!!!!
The locals are not going to know what to do, when they see this machine steamrolling down the street:crazy 🤪😁
matberry ·
WOW
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
You have PM Ian re mufflers mate.
Wide is an understatement!!
Sides ·
Second to what Daimo says about the pipes pointing downwards... had mine doing that for a while, and man - what a massive PITA !!!
Looks bloody gorgeous I think Ian... and yes - definitely wiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiide.
😉
Just out of curiosity... what is the your track and overall width now ??? Tried reading back through and couldn't see it....
2443TT ·
Thanks again for the comments guys. Looks like I dont have a lot of options with the exhaust due to the shape of the aero guards. Im going to have to have the pipes exhaust on about a 20-30 degree downward angle ad the edge of the guards, each side. Hopefully that wont stir up the dust too much.
From memory the aero guards are 1.5" wider than stock. I added another 90mm through the inside of them. The wheel track was increased 100mm each side which made the suspension specs the same as a 1988 944 turbo, which was the same car all the suspension parts were sourced from. The front track is 40mm wider than the back.
Hopefully getting some time to work on the exhaust today...
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
The exhaust is for the most part finished now. I opted for a very straight through setup, but still angled down a bit. I can always put a 45 degree angle on the end to take the pipes straight back if I have too much trouble with dust.
I still need to take off the left side dump pipe and weld on a bung for the wideband exhaust gas sensor, which I will do tomorrow. I also intend to get the whole system garnet blasted, so that I can ceramic coat the dump pipes and mufflers. The tips are stainless so I could polish those, or just coat the whole lot with the black turbox ceramic coating.
Im still undecided.
The right side fender is on as well now, so I could match up the pipe clearences etc.
Left side... pretty simple, and cant get much more "straight through" than that. I dont think it will be muffling too much, but im really not too concerned about the noise it will make, or the legality. If I get defected I'll just put a silencer in the left side exhaust. As I understand it, a vw has to pass 95db at 2400 rpm.
Right side, and you can see that in between the muffler and dump pipe that there is a pnumatically operated 3" exhaust valve. This is part of the sequential turbo control setup. I should also have a wastegate installed here (turbosmart 38mm will do nicely) to operate over this valve to facilitate pre-spool and reduce lag. Its on the list of things that I still need to buy.
The exhaust measures about 95mm to the ground in this position at its lowerst point, with the suspension slammed as low as it goes in the back. After I measure the corner weights and choose a set of new springs this will be raised to a legal 120-130mm.
I will be starting the car agian tomorrow to work on the idle and low end tune a little. I am pretty sure that I have two injectors firing out of sequence, as the idle is rough and it only runs smooth once the engine speed is above 2000 rpm. If I can source a video camera from someone tomorrow i'll take some new footage where you can actually see the engine properly!
Cheers,
Ian
vassy66T1 ·
Beautiful Ian
The exhaust exit looks fab!!
I would go the black for the exhaust coating ... that would look magnificent. Looking forward to the vid.
Flintstones ·
Looking good Ian. Don't think those muffs are going to contain any noise🙂
Cut the tips so that they are parallel to the ground. They stick out too much IMO.
Are you going to paint under the guards?
Looking forward to another vid.
Cheers
D
55slug ·
The whole deal is just awesome ! Cant wait to see some driving video !!
1303Steve ·
Hi
Looking good, I think you will have a dust problem with the exhaust pointing down like that and the sheer volume that will come out.
Steve
2443TT ·
I welded the sensor bung into the dump pipe today and started the car again. This time I was able to sort out the idle AFR's and that fixed the rough idle it had before. Seems I was running it near 10:1 when doing the camshaft break in.
The exhaust is a lot quieter than I expected, those hot dogs do work a little! I dont know about legal, but it sounds pretty good. Ive taken another short video of it running again, this time with better light.
The guys making my custom accelerator cable took all week to not have it ready, so driving it is still a little way off experiencing that. Also we are getting a huge amount of rain at the moment, and the last thing I want to be doing is cruising around in the car when its pooring rain.
I will be taking the exhaust off tomorrow and getting it all garnet blasted so I can cermaic coat it next week. Ive got to tidy up a bit of wiring and install tail lights as well so that will keep me occupied in the meantime
Yes the guards will be being painted black inside. They have to come off the car again so I can get them re-sprayed, so it will happen then. They look good in the photo's but there are a few flaws that need fixing that will require rubbing them back again. I wouldnt have bothered with it but the rest of the car looks so good, I have to bring the guards up to that same level as well.
Yes dust might be an issue, but as with any forced induction car (that doesnt run a cat) I am expecting it will need to be cleaned pretty often. I used to own a white R33 gtr that had no car, and despite the exhaust exiting beyond the bumper the whole back of the car was frequently covered in soot from the 12:1 on boost AFR's.
Cheers,
Ian
hellbugged ·
may not be a concern at this point, but any how
wayne penrose has some sort of valve in the exhaust of his oval that opens at given rpm...to control noise
On his website in build pics
13bwagon ·
shite ill give ya me left nut just for a ride!!!
dangerous ·
Aweome Ian!!
Not long now!!
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Troy's type 3 has no mufflers at all. 380mm of pipe from turbo housing to tailpipe.
Loud = yes but still not as loud as 99.99% of Harley's on the road.
wibble ·
You want the flash camera or just the shitty little ones?? I fly back on the 30th so give me a buzz n well sort it 😉 Would like to do a still shoot b4 you get all that roadrash on it too hehe
2443TT ·
Wibble Dude! I think I should just buy one of your video camera's off you! I'll be in touch.
Thanks for the comments again guys. The dump pipes and exhaust are currently off the car again and in being garnet blasted prior to being ceramic coated. I should have them back on the car again by the weekend, and with any luck will have an accelerator cable then too. So... if its not raining all weekend again I might actually get to go for a test drive and do a little street tuning! Woo Hoo!
On another note, I started another engine today too. Its very off topic, but as you all know im a little into Nisan GTR's as well. This is a prototype engine of my own design (3.1lt), that was started for the first time today. The sleeves, spacer plate, crankshaft and pistons are all my own design.
Cheers,
Ian
mountainbug ·
Ever thought about being a doctor....
Shear brillance mr swinkles
reub ·
😀 ... don't get Ian started on the medical profession dude...
Smiley ·
It's been a week now.
How many kms have to racked up? 😂
Need update!
Smiley 🙂
2443TT ·
Hi Guys,
Ive got the dump pipes and mufflers ceramic coated and back on the car again now.
I also have the intercooler and most of the piping intercooler installed but have had to order a few more parts to finalise the intakes/filtering setup. Most of these parts arrived today... that is all but the stuff I really needed.
Still havent driven the car yet. I want to put the air cleaners on it before I go for a drive. It has finally stopped raining though.
Cheers,
Ian
SLAPPA ·
It's looking real good now Ian....
cant wait till i'm back in Cairns to see it.
vassy66T1 ·
Exhausts look good. Must be tight in there? (mind you it all requires a shoe horn I think)
2443TT ·
Na there is plenty of room inside those rear guards. Under the firewall inside the back of the car is getting pretty cramped though. I had the intercooler, intake piping and plumbing etc all installed and its going to be a very tight sqweeze getting air cleaners in there, but I have a good plan.
Gidday Slappa, definatly give me a call when you are back in town too.
So... update time.
I had the intake of the car all assembled at last (except air cleaners), and was plaing with the tune today when my starter motor shaft let go... again. It didnt break at the welded join where I extended the shaft, rather it broke further along the shaft right under the outer bearing where it is stressed the most.
After much swearing I decided it was time to fix the dam thing properly, as in the hard way. The new plan is to machine up an mount for a 2nd ring gear that will be 15mm closer to the starter motor, thus solving my offset issue. I will use a standard 200mm flywheel to make the extension, and basically machine the center out of it. Then it will attach to the main flywheel using studs or longer bolts that will replace the 6 standard flywheel bolts. Because of how the clutch goes together, I can have the "ring gear extension" machined so it positively locates centrally over the pressure plate very easily.
With any luck I can have this done before next weekend too. I was SO close to driving the car today, and to have the starter break was a right pain in the ass.
2443TT ·
Today I picked up my solution to my ring gear/starter motor woes from the machine shop. A new ring gear system that bolts on to the flywheel.
Basically I got a normal german VW flywheel and flipped it over so the ring gear is towards the gearbox instead of the engine. Then I went about making it bolt back onto the existing flywheel using the 6 main pressure plate bolts. The ring gear mounts are notched so they positively center on the edge of the pressure plate, exactly the same way the pressure plate centers into the flywheel. The whole lot was then re-balanced.
The new ring gear setup...
And the ring gear attached to the flywheel
I could have had the 1st ring gear removed from the main flywheel, but I like to keep my options open. I doubt it will affect the performance much anyway.
I got as far as getting the engine back in the car again too, but still have to bolt on the header, turbo's and all the intake plumbing again. Thats my mission for tomorrow afternoon. I'd like to be starting the engine again on saturday, and weather permitting actually get to go for a drive!
dangerous ·
Nice work ian, good solution!
vassy66T1 ·
You are an excellent problem solver ... definitely a requirement for this project. Hope Saturday goes to plan for you.
VoLkSuBaGeN ·
Great project!!
I'm doing a superbeetle pan conversion to my 69 beetle project in Thailand.
Your car inspire me, very very nice car. :-)
PS. This is my car, I think it will be finished in 2 months.
pete wood ·
awesome work volksubagen 👍
I have just shamelessly copied those pics. My buggy is definitely getting a strut front down the track. It's just sooooo much better than torsion bar. 😀
2443TT ·
Good idea using the superbug pan to update your suspension. It makes the whole process and parts compatability a lot less grief to deal with. The only reason I went with the swing axel pan and then went for broke on it was the torsion horns arent as tall, allowing more clearance to the CV joints.
Quick update....
The car is now back together again, wheels on and on the ground again. The new starter motor drive setup continues to work a treat. I wish i'd done it that way from the start but thats part of the joys of having modified everything so much i guess.
Ive been playing with the tune a little and now have a base map that should be reasonably drivable, at least enough to get going on a street tuning. The engine is finally running properly on all 4 cylinders now too, and with the twin exhausts operating it sounds cranky as hell. Not surprising since the cam is a varient of a FK87.
I had a bit of a mission chasing oil leaks too, which all turned out to not be from the engine, but from 2 o-rings on the external pump.
I spent most of the weekend tidying up wiring and with finishing touches. Just have tail lights, seat belts, seats and number plate mounts to finish. I hope to get to take the car for a lap before the end of the week.
Thats all for now.
Ian
2443TT ·
Hi Everyone,
Time for a long over-due update. Ive been busy tinkering on the car lately. The last finishing touches taking the longest to work out how to finish properly... The car is now drivable, and only needs a horn and number plate to be mounted so its "legal". I think I need to re-bleed the brakes again too as the pedal isnt as firm as i'd like it to be. I hope to finish that off tomorrow and go for the drive to the service station and get my victory coke.
I've finally been able to finish of the ignition system now that my AEM 4 channel CDI unit has arrived. This little box is very similar to the MSD DIS4 HO (high output version), except that it doenst have a 2 step limitor in it, and the inputs are able to be configured as rising or falling edge. This allows it to be directly wired to an ECU, instead of having to have a Ignitor module interface stage. The output of this sucker is amazing too. With the MSD Blaster SS coils, output to the plug will be about 54,000 volts! It also does the multi-strike spark at low RPM like the MSD, which has really helped the idle of the car. Its still idling at 1200-1250rpm, but sounds a little smoother at the same time.
The intake system for the sequential twin turbo operation is pretty well finished, though I still need air cleaners, a hose for one of the bypass valves, and some minor welding to replace some of the silicon hoses as pictured, air boxes, and to make the bolt in firewall section. I will not be letting that stop me when I go for a drive though.
Here are a few more pics.
Hope to have more pics tomorrow... fingers crossed.
Cheers,
Ian
matberry ·
Thanks for the updates.
Not long for that well earned Coke. 🙂
reub ·
Still not sure any of us can comprehend potential of this build dude....
Looking forward to hearing the WHOOHOO from your first drive, and the following poo stains that emerge from eventual all out power 👍
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
I'm presuming Ian that coke will not be a 600ml bottle after all the work that you have put into this thing!!
2443TT ·
Sadly no test drive today... Only Reub got to do that today...
Its been raining all day here, so instead Ive re-adjusted the suspension, blead the brakes, and mounted the passenger side seat and seat belt. Perhaps this week some time i'll get the chance to do a couple of blockies at the very least.
colonel mustard ·
No rain here this weekend.... send it down to brissy mate!
Great job on an extensive build👍👍
Can hear the "tshh" of the coke being opened!👍
Need to see some vids from the maiden voyage😁
Cheers
D
2443TT ·
Still no can of coke yet. Ive decided to do the responsible thing and finish making the car "legal" before going for a lap. I dont think I should push my luck with the boys in blue. They are going to have a heart attack as it is the first time I get pulled over. Having something there that is wrong that could get me defected is pushing my luck a little.
Its funny the things you can over look when you think your nearing the end of the project, such as side rear vew mirrors, windscreen wiper wiring, wiring for the power windows, and getting the seat height right so you can see over the dashboard... Ive taken care of these little issues this weekend.
I want to finsih the bolt in firewall this week too. Coming up with the right design for air filter boxes to mount through the firewall is proving to be quite a challange. Ive been toying around with a few idea's but havent really come up with something I like yet. Once I finish the firewall the rest will hopefully fall into place from there.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
Another update.
I ordered my air filters over 2 weeks ago and the frickin things still arent here. I did manage to finish the bolt in firewall today. Just need to rub it up with some Jif and a scotch bright to give it that dull burnished look. Holes will be cut each side in the back tray where the intakes go through, and the air boxes will be. Then hoses from the air boxes to the windows and its all done. So yet again at a stand still due to slow parts delivery...
Here are the pics:
Thats all for now.
Ian
56t4 ·
Hi Ian,great work mate. I just read thru the whole thread very inspirational stuff.Can't what to see a vid of the beast on the road.
2443TT ·
Hi All,
Fricken finally another update. I had hit a major hurdle with trying to get all the intake piping, air cleaners and intercooller in under the firewall. I intentionally put in a bolt in firewall to have plenty of room, but it all seems to disappear pretty quickly. Every step forward I made with finishing something has required 5 steps backwards to make it all fit and work. Ive had to re-located oil lines, fuel lines wiring, and the intake pipe setup is now on its 5th version I think.
So, the new setup has a HKS mushroom air filter mounted inside an air box above each turbo. These are pretty cool filters, with a large 3" trumpet inside the filter assembly. The base of the filter is machined alloy with a pretty chromed wire gril over the filter foam. Ive had to re-weld the fittings off the turbo's to alter the angles (for about the 4th time). Output from the drivers side turbo goes through a pnumatically operated valve which will be used to bring the 2nd turbo online above 3500 rpm. There is a smal 25mm bov being used as a bypass/pre-spool valve for this 2nd turbo. As you can see I decided to change to a turbosmart vport bov for the main intake pipe.
Then with the 2nd hot pipe installed it T's into the main line from the 1st turbo. Granted a T isnt necessarily all that efficent with flow, but 95% of the time intake air flow is through the first turbo only, and when the 2nd is producing boost the pipes are al pressurised anyway so flow shouldnt be an issue. I'd have liked to do away with some more of the silicon hoses in favor of more tig welded stainless but I cant get tight enough radisus bends, so I'd need a 2.5" stainless donut to do it all the right way. Just raw welds... no polishing yet. I just want to drive it and prove it works!
The insanity contines naca scoops mounted on the firewal with air supply holes cut for the air boxes. The whole lot is held together with pop riveted in nut-inserts and allen head bolts. The air supply hoses to the windows and the firewall end naca ducts will probably end up being satin black painted PVC tube, with silicon joins to the ducts at each end. Satin black is my new favourite colour...Cheap too.
Here it is with the rest of the firewall in place.
And from the tailgaiters view.
Tomorrow I have to take off 1/2 the intake manifold so I can change the vacuum connections and connect a fitting for the idle air control valve(something I overlooked when making it a few months ago...
I hope to finish the car eventually.... 😀
Cheers,
Ian
vlad01 ·
I just read this whole thread from start to finish.
awesome 😵💫
Flintstones ·
The joys of modifying 😵💫
Hang in there Ian, it's almost done.👍
That Coke is just around the corner 😁
Cheers
D
vlad01 ·
2443TT wrote:At last guys I finaly have a set of heads, and they are truely awesome! The machining is really as good as it looks. Valve seats are blended to the casting so there is no noticable lip to feel if you run your finger over it. Exhaust flanges are huge too, should make for a good sealing area considering the exhaust back pressure on the engine will be approaching 35PSI.
I discovered that the Australian government doesnt have a free trade agreement with the Swiss too. Import duty and GST was another $718 on top of the purchase price of $3275. So Ouch! Just as well Kevin Rudd gave me some money to help buy these! But they look like they will be up to the task of what I have planned for them.
I know what I'll be doing this weekend.... 😀
😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫 what are these heads 😵
omg they have 9! ..... 9!!!!!!!!!!!! cooling fins. 🤪 ultimate daily driven race car heads. who makes them and where did you get em from.
2443TT ·
vlad01 wrote:😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫 what are these heads 😵
omg they have 9! ..... 9!!!!!!!!!!!! cooling fins. 🤪 ultimate daily driven race car heads. who makes them and where did you get em from.
The heads are JP Motorsport MS230's. Made in sweedan. Here's a litle more information.
I've been a little side tracked with rebuilding a skyline engine and racing the last few weeks, but have finally found the time to make some progress on the vw again.
I decided to ditch the idea of adding and idle control valve. I will just accept that the engine idles a little slower when its cold.
Speaking of which, with the intake manifolds finished and all the plumbing connected, I've been able to get the engine runnng quite sweetly to the point that its ready for a basic road tune and test. This means I had to finish the firewall and air intakes, which is now done.
The whole lot is held in with riveted in nut-certs (or thread inserts) and allen head bolts. So here is the assembly.
First the top sheet goes on, and the air boxes bolt to this sheet, and the body of the car.
Next, the front sheet goes in, and the naca scoops with flanges are bolted into place.
Then on go the hoses.
There is still room to put a back seat in the car again, but the car is now mod plated as a 2 seater. The whole lot will be being covered up with a vinal covered thick padded sheet (held in place with velcro). This will help cut down on engine noise getting into the car as well.
I still need to pull the clutch master cylinder and have it sleeved down to a smaller size, as the clutch is fully dis-engaged with only 2/3 pedal movement. This probably wont stop me going for a test drive should I get number plates onto the car this weekend.
Thats all for now.
Ian
grogy ·
the workmanship and problem solving are a credit to you. a real work of vw art. all the best ian, i been eagerly waiting to see your car running, there are not many bugs like this one. regards greg
cam070 ·
I anticipate this shold be done very soon, at which time I have a few small jobs for you........ You can certainly help build me car any day!
Golde60 ·
all the best with the first shake down drive. i hope it goes well - you deserve that coke.
2443TT ·
Still havent been for a drive yet. It had been like melbourne weather all weekend, drizzly rain and cold. I did finally take some HD video of the car running though and managed to upload it to youtube.
dangerous ·
That is awesome Ian.
Sounds great!
reub ·
👍
silver ·
Sounds great!
When should we start a sweep on how much HP this thing will have??
matberry ·
Brilliant work Ian, sounds VERY sweet. Can't wait to hear it nasty. 🙂
modulus ·
Ian,
This is a stunning piece of work - beatifully developed.
You won't be short of KW, but you might pick up one or two with a small change. The NACA duct is specifically designed as a low-drag, high-volume sunken inlet duct, so the ones you have on your rear windos for intake air inlets will flow very well and add very little drag to the car. However, they don't flow well in the reverse direction, so the ones over your air filters will just act as air restrictors. On any 'normal' car this would hardly matter, as the installation you have created is open enough to flow reasonable amounts of air. This, however, is not a 'normal' engine and will be flowing vast air quantities, so restrictions in the intake will be directly reflected on the dyno. No need to change it now, but when you're after that last bit of power a simpler, cleaner design will flow better than NACA ducts run backwards.
hth
Flintstones ·
That sounds great 👍👍
When are you planning on putting it on the dyno?
I'm guessing.....350rwhp
Cheers
D
2443TT ·
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I love the sound of it too. It puts a big smile on my face every time I start it, though I really need to stop stuffing around and get the car on the road! I keep finding little things to do that is delaying the grand event.
Based on my previous experience with naca ducts, I ran a single 3" pipe from the windows with my last two turbo motors. They made 165 and a little over 220rwhp without running out of flow. This has me thinking the 4x3" intakes should easily flow enough air for 800hp (this is not the power goal though). The main restriction is the 2.5" pipes that feed the turbos, though even these on a RB26/GTR engine are proven to flow 450awkw.
Im aiming for a fair bit more than 350rwhp with the engine, though time will tell what it actually delivers. The T517z turbo's flow simular to a GT3540R with the 0.86 turbine trim (700hp). Im not just chasing power though, im after response and strong torque from low in the rev range. Based on what ive seen already, the manifold should see positive pressure before 1800 rpm, and it should achieve full boost on the first turbo by 2200-2400 rpm.
JVLRacing ·
2443TT wrote:Thanks for the feedback everyone. I love the sound of it too. It puts a big smile on my face every time I start it, though I really need to stop stuffing around and get the car on the road! I keep finding little things to do that is delaying the grand event.
Based on my previous experience with naca ducts, I ran a single 3" pipe from the windows with my last two turbo motors. They made 165 and a little over 220rwhp without running out of flow. This has me thinking the 4x3" intakes should easily flow enough air for 800hp (this is not the power goal though). The main restriction is the 2.5" pipes that feed the turbos, though even these on a RB26/GTR engine are proven to flow 450awkw.
Im aiming for a fair bit more than 350rwhp with the engine, though time will tell what it actually delivers. The T517z turbo's flow simular to a GT3540R with the 0.86 turbine trim (700hp). Im not just chasing power though, im after response and strong torque from low in the rev range. Based on what ive seen already, the manifold should see positive pressure before 1800 rpm, and it should achieve full boost on the first turbo by 2200-2400 rpm.
those naca ducts will do the job!...nice work to😎
hellbugged ·
weather forecast please 😁.....
.......the suspence is killing me!
vlad01 ·
well that confirms what heads i would like to buy. Runs surprisingly smooth for 48mm intakes valves.
Question? whats the CCs of the head chamber?
vassy66T1 ·
Sounds brilliant. Might be good to have a dry road though for traction 👍
modulus ·
2443TT wrote:Based on my previous experience with naca ducts, I ran a single 3" pipe from the windows with my last two turbo motors. They made 165 and a little over 220rwhp without running out of flow.
Hi Ian,
I didn't express myself very clearly. I have no doubt that the NACA ducts in your windows will flow very well. However, the NACA ducts over the air cleaners will flow quite badly, as NACA ducts running in the reverse direction are quite inefficient and restrictive.
Unfortunately I don't currently have access to a flow bench to provide you quantative figures, but I tested these long, long ago (along with a wide variety of other duct shapes) as part of my engineering degree work, and remember that they flowed quite badly in reverse direction.
This doesn't detract from the fact that the whole car is a work of art.
hth
2443TT ·
Update!
FINALLY I have taken the car for its first test drive. It took a few attempts to get out the driveway (in fact yesterday I made it only to the end of the driveway before I had to put it back in the shed again to fix a wheel alignment issue)... But I made it around the block twice today.
I have already identified quite a lis of issues that need to be fixed from the first drive. The main one is that despite having a fuel cooler on the fuel system return line (which works great... the fuel tank is cold to the touch), my bad ass fuel pump is over heating and boiling the fuel. The fuel pump itself is very hot to touch as is the fuel filter.
The fuel temps in the pump cause it to cavitate, and then it stops pumping all together. Even at idle I can hear the pump cavitating and varying speed. As a result AFR's are all over the place. I figure i have either got a faulty pump of my fuel pressures are way too high and are loading the pump up too much. I will be checking the pressure tomorrow once I buy a pressure gauge.
Next issue is that the cam is so wild that the engine barely pulls a vacuum of -5 to -8 inHg at idle and at low engine speeds. This makes map based tuning impossible so Ive had to switch to TPS+MAP so I have more tuning resolution for low rpm driving. Which has meant re-working the maps from scratch.
The twin plate clutch seems to tolerate being slipped a little so I think it will be very streetable enough once I get the engine to run a bit better. It is like an on off switch though as well. I must have stalled the car at least 10 times trying to back up the hill into my garage. The combination of the clutch and the tune like it currently is, it either stalls or spins the tyres. The gear ratios of the 930 box combined with an engine speed of around 1600 rpm and a twin plate meant that I was probably doing 30km/h in reverse into the garage too.
The brakes work great!
I need to do something about the exhaust note to quieten it down. I got a few pissed of looks from people in surburbia that I was driving past. Made me miss the days I lived in an industrial area, where burnouts and playing with antilag systems in the driveway never offended anyone!. The exhaust note has got to be at least 105-110db. I'll be looking at either slip in sliencers or whole mufflers to replace the hot dog mufflers that are currently on the car.
Ive adjusted up the front end to a practical ride height of about 120mm to the lowest point of the car, but the back wont go any higher as the springs are only a 3kg/cm
spring, and are preloaded as far as I can tighten them.
Based on the ratio of the trailing arm and the weight over the back end I think I'll be needing at least a 6-8kg rear spring. The fronts I'll be dropping back to a 2.5-2.75kg spring as well to keep the ride comefortable. I was expecting this though, as the coil overs are currently sprung for a front engined honda civic.
I lost the 2nd personalised plate from the car. I'll have to order another, or tidy my workshop again. One will do for the moment...
I did away with the T-Lock handle on the engine lid this time as I noticed that idiots "namely the last cops that pulled me over last time the car was on the road" attempt to force it open despite the fact that I had it locked. I figure removing the handle will remove this temptation. It also goes with the shaved appearance of the car.
Thats all for now.
Ian
vlad01 ·
Cool 👍. there is always bugs to sort on a new build.
Question from before. CC of the chamber of those heads?
2443TT ·
vlad01 wrote:Cool 👍. there is always bugs to sort on a new build.
Question from before. CC of the chamber of those heads?
I cant remember off hand though ive got it written down somewhere. It think its around 52-55cc, basically the same as a competition eliminator.
typethreeking ·
hey ian congrats on the drive, i have a similar issue with my cam having no vacuum at idle or low revs and that makes it hard to drive under 2000rpm, car hunts really badly and as for the noise, this is another issue i have with no room for a muffler at all so i have a 3 inch pipe straight off the turbo and its only around 300mm long. Good luck with the next test drive..Troy
vlad01 ·
Hey, did you use copper gasket in this build?
2443TT ·
Troy, 300mm straight off the turbo! Dam i'll bet your neighbours love you.
vlad01 wrote:Hey, did you use copper gasket in this build?
I presume you mean head gasket? Yes. I used a zero thou deck height, 0.040" copper head gasket.
vlad01 ·
ok, hows your experience with them? are they a must for forced induction? having a hard time finding definitive info about them. Seems to be a lot of contradictory info.
I wonder if you can get head gaskets for those people to run thick walled 92's with 94 case/head profiles. Would have to be a wider gasket than the standard 92mm.
Also I noticed you used ARP studs from LN engineering. Do they have the same expansion rate as the stock vw studs?
2443TT ·
Ive never had a copper head gasket fail but have only used them on one other forced induction engine. Copper is good because of its heat transfer properties. They will also seal better than iron on ally as well as they can take up slight imperfections in the surfaces. There is a lot of info on shoptalkforums about them, you just need to sift through all the crap. Sean Geers (geers engineering) make custom sized copper head gaskets, any size or thickness as well. You could also spray the rings with hylomar after annealing for the ultimate seal.
My cylinders are a good deal shorter than cut to length cylinders on a standard engine let alone a stroker engine(probably 2/3rds the length). This is because of the massively raised deck of the oxy boxer case. As they are shorter they expand less. I am more concerned with having a stud system that would support high boost operation. ARP do that job nicely. There is no chance the studs will pull the inserts out of the oxy boxer case either. The case has massive inserts that go into the case much further than the inserts do on a T1 case. Have a look at the Rocky Jennings website to see how the offset stud inserts are put into a case to allow the use of 10mm head studs.
vlad01 ·
I did find last night that LN worked with ARP to specially develop these studs to work with their nickies cylinders.
So I guess that confirms which ones I will be using, also GB make custom CrMo studs specially made to expand in the same way.
Thanks for the info, I book marked geers engineering for later reference.
btw how much did your project cost out of curiosity?
reub ·
Crongrats yet again dude... A huge milestone getting it on the road...
..oh, and isn't the old saying 'If you needto ask you can't afford' 🙄
2443TT ·
Thanks comments dude!
I was going to say it cost less than my last girlfriend... but that would probably be a lie!
Truthfully it has cost nothing (At least thats what I tell myself!), as I havent kept a single receipt since starting the project.
vlad01 ·
LMAO 😂
come on a guess at least. what 100k, 150k?
5 buks?
colonel mustard ·
^^^ I don't really see how that is funny??
It's not always the type of thing to ask.... maybe how much the engine cost, but not the whole build...
I dunno anything about you vlad, but if you have a race car, or a resto car - people generally avoid adding it up. they dont do it to make money, because they wont, they will lose money, you do it to enjoy it. 🙂
and, no one likes a copy cat, so, if you have plans... you should be able to work out how much stuff will cost...
dangerous ·
To me it is the same as asking someone how much they spent on food and drinks for the last 10 years.
I doubt anyone would keep tabs.
Pus it is more important than food and water.
Looks awesome out in the open Ian!
humpty ·
My god its phat!!!! A whole other league this build to be sure..... And 30kmh in reverse sounds handy! 😂😂
vlad01 ·
colonel mustard wrote:^^^ I don't really see how that is funny??
It's not always the type of thing to ask.... maybe how much the engine cost, but not the whole build...
I dunno anything about you vlad, but if you have a race car, or a resto car - people generally avoid adding it up. they dont do it to make money, because they wont, they will lose money, you do it to enjoy it. 🙂
and, no one likes a copy cat, so, if you have plans... you should be able to work out how much stuff will cost...
I just wanted an idea of the cost involved. So I have a ballpark figure to work towards, then go blow it all on a build of my own. Don't worry about copy paste, Beetles are not my thing type 3's are. Not even the engine will resemble 2443TT's engine. I was asking some advice that is all. I always get this shit in Australian forums 😬
humpty ·
Machines like this are way out of all but a few's realm of affordability....
There'd be over 15-20k in the engine alone!.... Factor 10-20k for body mods, paint and panel, 10k+ for chassis, 5-6k for trans, 2-3k for wheels and tires, 2k for brakes.... And then there is all the incidentals... Then there's the hours....
I'd have to add that this is very conservative estimates...
You getting the picture?... You can now see why people don't ask 'how much'?
colonel mustard ·
I wasn't trying to be rude mate.
It's just that there are some cars that you don't ask how much it cost. Everyone has different ideas of what they want to do, and everyone has different contacts and skills.
I agree with what Humpty is saying. 🙂
If you really want to know what a certain aspect of this build costs, Pm 2443tt 🙂
vlad01 ·
15-20k in the motor alone!!!👍 wow thats a fair bit less than I expected.
but the rest seem to be exactly what I estimated. hmmm?? sweet!
vassy66T1 ·
Based on all the good rules of cost estimating ... double it $
vlad01 ·
Yep. I know that one already.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
From memory I think Troy has spent over 30k on his engine since he started but that is a rough guess as keeping tabs on money spent on big projects either gets you into deep you know what with the Mrs( doesn't apply to you Dangerous you lucky bugger) or simply scares you into thinking how you could of just about afforded the investment property you looked at long ago......
Golde60 ·
Money is cheap and time is free. We do this for fun - and yes it is expensive and better to forget sometimes, otherwise it is not so much fun
2443TT ·
Brendan is pretty close with the guestimate on the engine. The bodywork if I were to count the first time it was painted (arctice silver) and stuffed up with dust contaiminating the clear coat has come to about $25K now too. The interesting thing is that the big ticket items only make up about 60% of what you spend. The small items is where you really get stung. Like $2500 in fittings and hose for the dry sump system. The intercooler and intake piping is another one that got well out of control money wise, especially because I kept on re-engineering it. Shannons have the car insured for an agreed value of $75,000.
I agree with Goldie 100% too. Money matters not so long as you have food and a place to sleep. Real enthusiests stop buying good steak and instead get sausages to afford the parts they really want.
Ive made more progress with the car. It seems the baffeling inside the tank is where my fuel surge issues are coming from. The fuel is being airated from the force of the fuel returning back to the tank. This didn't happen with the smaller pump I ran with the previous setup, but the larger pump is making bubbles when the tank isnt full. An external surge tank and lift pump is going to be needed to fix this little issue. In the meantime, keeping the tank full solves the problem. So ironically when I do make it to the service station this saturday it will only be to buy a coke because the tank will already be full.
Im beginning to make progress with the mapping of a fuel curve at last. The fuel requirements are like nothing ive ever encountered because of the low vacuum situation. The engine does pull a reasonable vacuum at 4000 rpm though, causing the fuel map to get fatter as RPM increases. Engines with normal street cams generally have very simular fuel requirements across the rev range for any given manifold pressure/vacuum and only provide additional fuel around where the cam comes on song.
The muffler situation is proving to be impossible to resolve. I can put a fat muffler in behind the engine in the stock muffler location but I really wanted to keep all possible heat radiating stuff out of the engine bay. So 3" slip in sliencers are my next hope. Time will tell how that goes.
That is all for now.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
What about some supertrapps?? If Troy ever gets pinged that is what we had talked about doing. I agree with you on all the small stuff adding up. I remember Troy giving me a list of speedflo fittings he wanted to finish off some more oil lines etc and walking out of the shop with a handfull of alloy fittings and bends after handing over something like $500 has a hollow feeling even when it wasn't my money!! Troy did say he thought he had spent about $2k on fittings and braided line alone too.....
2443TT ·
I looked at supertrapps too, though I couldnt find any with a 3" primary. Based on the design of a supertrapp though, they'd be close on 4.5-5" at the tip. That would introduce another issue, as it would not fit under the guards or valence without giving me barely 50mm ground clearance... The challanges of modifying!
SuperOwen ·
Just a thought, I assume you have your return dumping back into the tank, would a Y peice type return on the inlet to the pump solve this aeration problem? Basically the fuel pump is fed from a Y peice that is connected to the tank on one side and the return on the other. Just a thought.
2443TT ·
SuperOwen wrote:Just a thought, I assume you have your return dumping back into the tank, would a Y peice type return on the inlet to the pump solve this aeration problem? Basically the fuel pump is fed from a Y peice that is connected to the tank on one side and the return on the other. Just a thought.
Interesting idea but I still think the flow would be an issue. The return lines are 3/8th ID, but the fitting on the tank expands that out to a 3/4" fitting. That slowed the flow of fuel enough for it to work with a smaller pump, but not the Bosch 910.
Ive got a good surge tank solution in mind... I just need to throw more money at it. That will fix it!
SuperOwen ·
More money or a bigger hammer and you can fix anything! Looking forward to seeing some on road footage.
2443TT ·
SuperOwen wrote:More money or a bigger hammer and you can fix anything! Looking forward to seeing some on road footage.
My speedway mates would add a crow bar and a gas axe to that, then agree with you.
silver ·
2443TT wrote:I just need to throw more money at it. That will fix it!
Sausages this week?
2443TT ·
silver wrote:
2443TT wrote:I just need to throw more money at it. That will fix it!
Sausages this week?
HA HA... Sandwitches actually... Im trying to finish my stroker skyline engine project off at the same time too.
Flintstones ·
Baked beans perhaps, seeing as you've got 2 builds going on at the same time.
Forget the skyline, get the dub finished😀I'm sure everyone here would agree!!!👍👍
Cheers
D
JVLRacing ·
impressive well done ur on ur way😎
typethreeking ·
ian, i have had the tip on my exhaust flared so you could put a supertrap in there if needed..just a thought
2443TT ·
The latest installment...
Thanks to the show day public holiday today, I have re-worked the fuel system. This time incorporating a surge tank and holley red lift pump. The lift pump has -10 supply fittings from the tank with an in-line -10 strainer/pre-filter, then -6 to the surge tank.
The main pressure pump uses -10 supply and -6 output via a -6 inline magnaflow efi filter. Fuel then goes via the 3/8th fuel lines to the back of the car, through the fuel rail and reg, then back to the front of the car again via the 3/8th fuel line. Fuel then goes through the fuel cooler and back into the 2nd fitting from the top on the surge tank. The top fitting on the tank is the over-flow that returns back to the main tank.
The surge tank has the capability of supporting another pump which may be needed when I really start cranking boost into the engine. As it is, this setup is good for around 400hp.
Along the way I also discovered that my tank had collected a fair amount of rust and debris, most likely because it had been sitting with stale fuel for nearly 3 years. Ive given it a good rinse out and cleaned the filters. The car is now back together again and is ready for road tuning again.
This evening when cleaning up the workshop when looking at the car I for the first time started to feel like im beginning to be happy with the car, and that I am finally seeing light at the end of the tunnel.
Road tuning will be sunday most likely as I'll be working tomorrow.
Ive decided to let the car be noisy for the moment, though have found that summit racing do 5" supertraps which will be the best bet from the looks of them. We'll see how I go and if I attract any attention from the boys in blue on sunday.
typethreeking ·
far out Ian, your fuel system is more confusing than mine, congrats on he progress and good luck for sunday
hellbugged ·
all ready for Valla next weekend then.......fair first road trip 😵
ian.mezz ·
Cant wait to see it on the track, when will it hit the Drag track and Circuit racing.???
2443TT ·
Well it rained all dam weekend again, and its supposed to be a dry season and winter! I did get to do another blockie briefly between showers though and the surging issue I was having is definatly sorted out now.
No Valla road trip quite yet... i'd have to trailer the car down anyway as from what ive already experienced, driving the car for more than an hour would be very exhausting. The noise... etc.
There is now a reasonable chance that the car will make the september or october sprint events where I have been up until now racing my GTR. Check out http://www.nqmp.com.au/.
The circuit is very tight (go-cart track) and when driving the GTR there the hairpins and chicane on the main straight are first gear corners. The porky 1600kg gtr really struggles to get around the corners and has big under-steer issues there. Overcoming intertia in accelerating and breaking area's is its other issue. The smaller cars like AE86 corolla's do really well there as they are the lightest cars on the track.
It is my hope that the VW will be a much more suitable car to drive there as I will be able to adjust the suspension to get full tyre-ground contact in the corners (No understeer!), but the main thing is that the car will weigh in around the 800-850kg mark (i hope). So I'll be in the same class as the nissan S13/S14 (SR20) croud, but will have a good 300 kg less weight to travel around with, and far more grip.
One of the organisers did suggest they might put me in the 3lt/open class though based on what is done to the car (2.4lt etc), which really isnt remotely fair as the larger heavier cars are a good 7-10 seconds of the pace of the ligher/smaller cars. Its a handling track, not a power track so I'd have the edge over the 1500kg+ cars for sure in an 800kg bug.
They are still building the drag strip up here, so that will be a few years off till I get a chance to do a 1/4 mile in the car. The closest 1/4 mile is an 800km round trip away. They used to run 1/8th mile drags at a remote airstrip but as is common with car events enough so called "car enthusiests" with bad attitudes managed to upset enough people so that the events arent run anymore.
Praying for dry weather...
jjwebb123 ·
wow big project.
what am i getting myself into.❗
vlad01 ·
Its pretty complex fuel delivery system I have to say.
2443TT ·
Finally the weather has cleared up and I haven’t had to work for a change so I was able to take the car out for another test drive today.
The fuel system changes have solved the surging issues that were making the car un-drivable before. So I’ve finally been able to start on the low end drivability tune.
So far I’ve only driven about 20km. I had one heart stopping moment though when I noticed the oil pressure dropped to 0. What had actually happened is that I had blown the fuse that supplies power to the gauges, due to a wiring issue with the power windows (that is on the same circuit as the dash). A change of fuse and a little insulation tape and I was off again.
After this first "successful" drive I’ve made a few more front end alignment changes. More camber and more caster basically. The rake on the car due to the rear springs being too soft to carry the weight had been counteracting the camber I had dialled in at the front end, so the car wanted to changed direction too easily.
Ive really got to get around to sorting out the spring rates. Im thinking 7kg/mm rears and 2.5kg/mm fronts will probably be my first try. The rear spring attachs 2/3 the way out the trailing arm, so the actual rate at the wheel will probably be around 4.5-5kg/mm.
I got to wind out 2nd gear to about 4000 rpm once and based on this experience I can tell the car is going to be incredibly fast. I think I’ll be changing the gear ratios in the box at some stage as the spread isn’t particularly friendly. And changing back to 1st gear while rolling to get around neighbourhood roundabouts is tricky, as the 1st gear synchro isn’t very accommodating.
Its amazing the looks the car gets too. It practically stops traffic. Ive had people pass me, then pull over to watch me drive by, thumbs up etc. One guy followed me about a km before doing a u-turn and heading back to where he wanted to go.
That’s all for now.
Ian
modulus ·
Excellent progress! It's amazing, considering the amount of original design in this car that you're able to move to tuning and sorting already, a testament to the quality of the work.
2443TT ·
Thanks for the vote of confidence... but really its been 3 years... and tuning is just the next step. On the bright side it feels a lot more stable at 80km/h now with the extra camber. Ordering new springs monday!
I went for another drive again late this afternoon. I must say its scary pulling out onto a freeway with a mostly untuned engine, that has a usable power band of only 2000-4000 rpm but I survived. Made it to a local service station and car wash without mishap and gave the car a long overdue clean. I ended up spending a good 2 hrs at the service station... people coming up to chat when chammying it dry etc. I forgot to buy the coke though... too busy chatting so I'll have to do it again.
Here are the pics:
Cheers,
Ian
RISKY4LIFE ·
OMG sexy
reub ·
Huge congrats dude. Almost call for me to jump on a plane 🙂
dangerous ·
WOW!
Those last pictures make me realise how awesome the whole project has been.
Good on you Ian!
You are going to need t least 450lbs/inch wheel rate on the rear.
Mine used 550lbs and it was close, but you will want a little more comfort.
STIDUB ·
👍👍👍👍👍👍 that looks awesome, the pics still make the rear wheels look not quite right depending on angle but thats crazy good looking, must feel good to have a drive finally?
what happened to the tail lights though? just not a fan of L bug lights or something else...?
vassy66T1 ·
Wicked!!! 👍
grogy ·
wow, if ever a bug would race le mans, it would look like that...........congrats. how bout drivin up to qld 2 take me for a spin wowowowow
2443TT ·
Thanks everyone,
Dave, 550lb/in = 9.8kg/cm... thats a hard spring! I remember running 8kg/cm on the front of my previous GTR and they were hard as hell, though that could have in part been due to the dampner rates too. I presume you have this rate matched to your dampners to get good squat and rebound on the drag strip right? So ive had a re-think and i'll take your suggestion of 450lb/in = 8kg/mm and go with 150lb/in or 2.7kg on the front.
About the tail light lenses... I had a set of clear ones that I was going to use but the quality was so bad with how they were glued together that I couldnt use them. Ive got to get a new set and will probably go standard red/yellow and leave it at that.
Ive also got to get myself a DM200 LCD display for my wideband system too so I can stick the gauge to the windscreen and see what the AFRs are when Im driving without having to take my eyes off the road.
Ive got 2 weeks to sort out sourcing these bits, and sorting out the tail lights and suspension as im going to be working next sunday and attending a wedding on saturday.
Grogy, Im already in QLD!... Cairns is about 2400km north of the border.
STIDUB ·
ahh yep, i thought that might be the case, they seem to be a very poorly produced part compared to other lenses,ive only ever seen one or 2 versions that looked semi good, though once in sunlight for awhile things may of changed, again though this thing looks awesome 👍
i drove to melbourne from brissy for a 21st last week... i could go to cairns to see an awesome beetle, roadtrip anyone 😂
trickysimon ·
Come pick me up 😂
modulus ·
STIDUB wrote:i drove to melbourne from brissy for a 21st last week... i could go to cairns to see an awesome beetle, roadtrip anyone 😂
Great idea. Can you pick me up in Melbourne on your way?
dangerous ·
Yeah the 450lbs rate may still be a bit stiff for your comfort,
but just a rough bit of maths will tell you
that the car is going to squat at least 2" when the weight transfers on a launch.
...but I would guess it is a little heavier than 1800lbs too.
Flintstones ·
Great to see it on the road Ian, well done!!
Have you had that Coke yet 😁
Any drive-by vids?
Cheers
D
JVLRacing ·
😎😎😎carbon decklid looks the goods,very nice package
20bkombi ·
[ I think I’ll be changing the gear ratios in the box at some stage as the spread isn’t particularly friendly. And changing back to 1st gear while rolling to get around neighbourhood roundabouts is tricky, as the 1st gear synchro isn’t very accommodating.]
Hi Ian, I've been following this build, and think that your bug is awesome. Well done!!!🙂🙂
I have i similar gear box (G64-21)6sp, you will get use to the ratios. I thought the same, but even launching at the strip with the long 1st, I'm able to get a
1.52 60ft in a bus weighing 3500p.
My idle is 1900rpm to 2100rpm so in 1st gear it sees 20kph (fast for a car park) and most back street corners are back to 1st. Also 2100rpm is 100kph in 6th (idling). Just a different style of driving.
Alsow makes it a challenge to tune.
keep the posts comming. Aaron
2443TT ·
Sorry no drive by video yet...
Aaron, I think your right about the gearbox. I am sure ive been driving the car like a bit of a girl too, trying to not rev the engine too much and spin the wheels. Yet also trying to not stall it. Im sure that driving fast will be a lot easier to do than trying to drive civilised. The car does spin the wheels very easily though, especially when reversing up my steep paved driveway into my shed. Cruising around 80km/h was around 2200 in 3rd from memory.
I've gad a win with the suspension today. I found out that the front and rear springs are actually interchangable, so ive swapped them front to rear and now have 7kg on the rear and 4kg on the front. I have to go for another test drive and see how it feels on the weekend. The rears are shortened springs though so they still need to be replaced.
Ive still got to put in the inner valve springs, which is another job for later in the week. The data logger add-on and a mini flat LCD screen are on its way to aid with the road tuning. I'll be able to mount the LCD straight to the windscreen in front of the driver much like the MFD on my GTR.
Thats all for now.
Ian.
mountainbug ·
Mate if there was a show called "VW Master Chef". you would top it!
fantastic build...
bajachris88 ·
i agree! Its a very tasty build for sure...
I'd take a bite 👍!
Although i doubt u would appreciate that...
cam070 ·
I've been killing to see this beast together on on the road and it looks tuff as. It looks like you could go a bit wider in the rear wheels from some angles. That would be seriosuly tuff!
Congratulations on one FINE build!
Golde60 ·
I tend to agree, either with some width or some offset or both. I might add that this is merely an observation, as the car is looking seriously awesome.
any ideas or plans for running boards or gonna keep the current look to maximise the appearance of the wide and low stance?
Golde60 ·
oh and I love the expression of the dude behind you filling up his car. wondering what planet and what year from the future that bug morphed in from!
dangerous ·
Just so we can see them some more:
2443TT wrote:Here are the pics:
Cheers,
Ian
66brm ·
I love this build, only thing I would alter is the lack of running boards, it just makes the guards look so much wider without them. However trying to step over a foot wide running board would be an experience in itself🙂
Golde60 ·
you could always taper them from each end so that you are not having to take a running leap to get into the car, rather just a standing start.
Either way it is a work of art.
2443TT ·
Yes indeed running boards will definatly be being made to fill the gap with the guards and likle Goldie suggested i'll be tapering them in near the door and then going wide again as it goes past the B pilar.
Going to a wedding this weekend too, so I am not going to be able to acomplish anythng new with the car for another week... which will probably allow my wallet to stop gasping for air.
KLR57 ·
hey guys I have personally seen this car in the flesh and i must say Ian major kudos on the work done. i could not believe what i saw in this superbug when i laid eyes on it, the engineering feats Ian has done MUST be seen to be fullly appreciated. Ian mate well done and thanks for showing me your labour of love.................................... all i can say now is SHOTGUN
silver ·
KLR57 wrote:hey guys I have personally seen this car in the flesh and i must say Ian major kudos on the work done. i could not believe what i saw in this superbug when i laid eyes on it, the engineering feats Ian has done MUST be seen to be fullly appreciated. Ian mate well done and thanks for showing me your labour of love.................................... all i can say now is SHOTGUN
except its not a Superbug its a 6 volt but it is a Super Bug
Super1302 ·
videos
2443TT ·
No more video yet.
I spent 1/2 the weekend chasing and resolving oil leak issues from the pushrod tubes. One of the unexpected joys of an oxy boxer is that there isnt really a good pushrod tube solution that fits well. Ive used adjustable pushrod tubes which are larger at the case end so they seal, but they really are too short for the job. I had used a few shims at each end of the pushrod to move the seals further out but that causes other issues.
It seems the perfect solution will be to custom make a new and longer end for the head end of the pushrod tube. For the moment though after having pulled all the pushrod tubes 3 times Ive finally got an engine that doesnt leak oil again.
Ive come up with a design for my alloy running boards at last too. I should have them partially fabricated by the end of the week. They are going to involve a few trips to the sheet metal fabricators.
2443TT ·
Hey all...
Quick update. I have finally been able to get a machine shop to properly fold a radius onto some sheet alloy so I can make some running boards. As simple as that might sound, its been bloody hard to try and get it done in Cairns. Between being promised "yeah sure we can do it", waiting a week to not still not have them done, and finally having them done but with a 90 degree bend instead of a radius, oh... and then being over charged for something I didnt want... well you get the idea.
In the end, a machine shop had the better tools to do the job than the sheet metal places... go figure. So I picked them up this afternoon and set about making my wide ass running boards/stone deflectors.
The plan is that they will bolt to the guards front and rear with 10mm bolts, and to the 90 degree angle 40x20x3mm (that you cant see) with some 6mm button head stainless bolts.
They arent going to be level either. I am angling them down to the road, from the sill at an angle of around 25-30 degrees, to help give the car a lower appearance and tie them into the lower edges of the aero guards a little better.
Once im happy with the fitment, they come off to be powder coated in gloss black to match the headlight trim and taillight trim. The stainless bolts wont be painted.
Im thinking of getting some stickers made up for them with a German skull and cross bones in a WW2 hat, and "Do Not Step"
written under it... to keep away feet.
That is all...
Ian
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Nice Ian!!
Smiley ·
So......see you at Warwick?
Smiley 😎
SLAPPA ·
So you finished the car yet Ian?
2443TT ·
Very close. Ive taken the car for a few more drives and make changes each time I do. Mostly suspension and steering adjustments, and now the car feels planted stable when driving.
EFI (and probably my intake pipe diameter) doesnt quite make the cam Ive chosen very drivable down low, but from 3000 rpm the car wants to just rev. To give you an idea, the seat of my pants dyno tells me that its quicker than my GTR which was running around 300awhp. I have positive manifold pressure from around 2200 rpm but drivability at that speed is a little dubious still and requires more tuning.
The data logger I ordered nearly a month ago still hasn not arrived. The company happily accepted my payment and then just forgot to dispatch it. Ive since had words and now have a tracking number that says it will be here in a few more days.
Im going to be re-making the right side running board as it didnt come up right, but the left was ok. Ive also replaced the tail lights with the more modern thing/lbug type lights, which suit the shape of the aero guards a lot better. I'll take some photos soon once the running boards are painted and finished.
So for the moment everything is on hold till the data logger arrives. When it does there is only that to install, and a pump for the water to air intercooler setup. Then tuning tuning tuning.
grogy ·
hi ian, thought u must gone on holidays or run out of money like me. glad u back, it make for interestin readin with some good pics, cant wait to see it run. seat of pants dyno.....ummm hot bugs always feel fast especially down low
Ollie ·
Bump! How's the car progressing Ian?!
2443TT ·
I haven't made much progress with the bug lately. Ive been flatout with work in general, and other projects.
The data logger I purchased for the bug didnt perform as desired. While it did work, it slowed my laptop down to the point that it was too slow to use, which is pointless. Im working on sorting out an alternative but need more time to get it done. I just need more time.
The other project that has been occupying most of my time is my GTR stroker engine project, which is now in my car and being run in. Rb26 block, sleeved, spaced and stroked to 3.15lt.
pete wood ·
any figures or dyno charts for the GTR yet? how does the stroker crank change the dynamics of the engine? I assume you aren't aiming for 9k launchs?
2443TT ·
pete wood wrote:any figures or dyno charts for the GTR yet? how does the stroker crank change the dynamics of the engine? I assume you aren't aiming for 9k launchs?
No figures yet as the engine is still being run in, and tested. Regular plug checks and an oil sample is taken every time I drive the car.
Rod ratio drops from a factory 1.65 to 1.6. The rev limitor will be set at 8200. Its running a pair of HKS GTRS turbo's which flow near on 800hp worth of air. The engine starts making boost a little below 2500 with a very mild tune. Ive got part of the project posted on the SAU website:
From building super fast Bugs to quickish Jap Taxi's. I know which one would certainly draw a bigger crowd mate!!
2443TT ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:From building super fast Bugs to quickish Jap Taxi's. I know which one would certainly draw a bigger crowd mate!!
Yeah its the VW every time. Every time I take the bug out for a drive I end up talking to someone for about an hour about it somewhere. People are just in shock when they see what has been done to it.
volkdent ·
Any updates? Smoky burnouts? Laps? 1/4 mile stuff?
Thanks,
Jason
Craig Torrens ·
I hope you survived the cyclone ok ?
2443TT ·
Yeah im still here. 2 days to cleanup after the cyclone, 3 days no power. 2 land slides, and blocked downpipes and underground plumbing to contend with thanks to all the shredded leaves from the trees collecting on my roof. Fortunatly I didnt have any trees fall, as only 3 days prior I'd finished having the last of the trees removed as I am completely re-vamping the house and yard, new landscaping etc.
Not a lot of updates with the bug to speak of. I needed a break from the car for a bit. Projects like this one turn into an all life consuming obsession. Fortunatly I can switch to playing with the GTR for something different and then back to the bug when I get the motivation juices flowing again.
I had started work on the car again about 4-5 weeks ago, and havfe re-designed and built a new turbo header. It is now close to an equal length primary pipe from each port, and it also merges 1+3 and 2+4 as pairs. Ive used parts of the old system to drop the exhaust 90 degrees from the ports downwards, and then the header bolts upwards to it to make fittment a lot easier to do. It took 3 attempts to get it right, but im now happy with the result. I'll be lag wrapping the header instead of ceramic coating it this time. Its just a lot easier to do, and cheaper. The 90 degree dumps are still ceramic coated though.
I got as far as starting the car and checking for leaks. Then the cyclone turned up and it hasnt stopped raining since. Last night and the night before that we had some absurd amount of rain fall.and the roads are now pretty stuffed, not to mention pretty slippery.
I have sidelined my fancy instrumentation setup for the moment, but what is developed so far looks very cool. In the meantime ive added a DM200 PLX devices gauge to the wideband system to provide a more readable AFR value when driving.
Thats all for now, till I get a chance to do a propper update.
Cheers,
Ian
Flintstones ·
glad family, house and cars are alright and that there wasn't too much devastation for you, compared to the images that are being broadcast on the box
hope you get back up and running quickly
Cheers
D
Ollie ·
Where's this car gone?!
2443TT ·
I've still got it and as of last weekend have started working on it again. I needed a break from it. I had also gotten very caught up in home renovations and my Skyline GTR RB315DETT stroker engine project, which is for the most part finished now.
After a few more road trips in the bug I decided it was necessary to make some changes to the engine to make it a little more drivable. The combination of the 911 gearing, the twin plate clutch and an engine that didnt idle below 1200 or produce usable torque below 2000 made it impossible to drive in traffic. So the engine is now out of the car to undergo a few changes. I will be upping the compression and advancing the cam.
I'll be pulling off the heads off it this weekend, measuring up and ordering some new CP pistons with less dish (or possibly machining a little off the current ones) this weekend. There is a stack of other changes I'll be making to the car when putting it back together as well. Some is just tidying up, but also I've a few learned better ways of doing things in the last year.
Turbo54 ·
Good to see progression or any sort and if you can't drive it you don't enjoy driving it.
Keep up with the pics once you have started again. How did the running boards turn out?
T54
2443TT ·
Turbo54 wrote:Good to see progression or any sort and if you can't drive it you don't enjoy driving it.
Keep up with the pics once you have started again. How did the running boards turn out?
T54
Thats exactly it. And while the car did drive feel great on the road, it had no streetable manners at all. Having to get off and on the clutch 2-3 time to pull away from the lights so it wouldnt stall or spin the wheels was painful.
The project is now well underway again as of today. I have pulled and re-measured everything to calculated what needs to be changed to raise the compression ratio.
I have also done away with the crank pully end trigger for the EFI system and have made some modifications to the flywheel to allow more accurate triggering to be done from there. It also allows for the wiring loom to be better concealed.
Piston machining will be happening next week, followed by ceramic coating again. Pictures will be posted when it all starts coming together again.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
A quick update.
No additional progress made with the engine as of yet but the parts have been ordered and will arrive in about 4 weeks.
I decided to not just settle for another set of custom pistons ore re-machining the existing ones, and have instead ordered a set of custom LN Engineering Nickies with matched custom pistons.
The cylinders are setup with thick walls for turbo use and the pistons will bring the compression up to 8:1 and is allowing me to narrow the engine about 3mm each side which will help with the pushrod tube sealing issues I was having too.
That is all for now.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Ooh Nickies!! You must post pics of those bad babies when they arrive!! Ultimate VW porn right there!!
2443TT ·
Update.
Its all starting to happen again. I've completely stripped the engine again now and am preparing for making some major changes.
The crank, flywheel, clutch, pulley, and pump drive are all in for machining and modification. I am removing the ring gear from the flywheel so just the porsche positioned bolt on ring gear system will remain.
I am also having part of the number 2 main bearing and front counterweight modified, so that I can change end float and thrust setup to work from the number 2 main bearing. Im doing this because after all of 200km the coating on the T1 flanged thrust bearing had started to come off in big chunks. Either the coating was substandard, or my pussy 1700lb pressure plate is too much for even a coated T1 flanged bearing. I'll post more pictures and details once its all done.
Ive had confirmation from LN Engineering that my pistons are being made by JE at the moment.
The case and MS230 heads are going to be sent down to Dave Butler soon to have the head stud arrangement altered to a custom configuration. Not T1 or Oxy boxer pattern, but half way in between.
The new nickies cylinders use an Oxy boxer 100mm case end and a 104.5mm head end, and carry a 94mm piston. This retains the 2443cc capacity but provides the necessary strength for boost.
The cylinder walls are 5mm thick at the head end, but the sealing area between the cylinder top and teh head is still the same as with a mahle cylinder.
This will be done with either a step cut at the top of the cylinder, or Dave will mill a recess from 101.3 to 104.5mm when opening the heads out to 104.5mm.
That is all.
2443TT ·
Cylinder data attached.
dangerous ·
2443TT wrote:I am also having part of the number 2 main bearing and front counterweight modified, so that I can change end float and thrust setup to work from the number 2 main bearing. Im doing this because after all of 200km the coating on the T1 flanged thrust bearing had started to come off in big chunks. Either the coating was substandard, or my pussy 1700lb pressure plate is too much for even a coated T1 flanged bearing. I'll post more pictures and details once its all done.
Here are some ways that Keith did his, and i did one for a customer.
My mistake, I meant the Number 3 main. I did consider using something like Keith's setup but have decided to go another way.
Im going to move the radius on the number 3 main on the crank back further and up against the counterweight. I'll then surface the front of the counterweight out to about 5mm so it will function as the new thrust surface. This gives me about 1.75mm of room to work with for setting up the thrust area.
I'll then get a standard T1 rear main and remove 0.5mm from each side on the inside of the bearing so that it will fit the Number 3 bearing saddle, and surface the side that goes against the crank to set the endfloat towards the front of the engine.
The cam drive pully will be machined back about 1.5-2mm,and to the inside diameter of the standard T1 rear main end float adjustment shims. This will allow me to set the endfloat using standard parts. The bearing will also be slotted from the main oil gallery towards the crankshaft, so there will be oil under pressure being forced to the thrust surface.
All the other bearings can be standard 2 piece 1/2 bearings and a conventional BMW center main keeping it simple.
The only disadvantage I can see is that I can't put a thrust/end float shim on the front of the crank, as the main journal will be radiused towards the cranks counterweight.
So its similar to, but different from how Revmaster do their end float setups on their aircraft engines. They carry thrust on the bearing in a different direction though, so thats the main difference.
2443TT ·
Just did a search for the revmaster setup and found what Im doing has already been done by someone else!
snitz ·
Never clicked on this thread before but 2 hours later..😂😂
I couldn't stop until I read the whole thread..Absolutely Awesome!!.. Kudos to you on an awesome build. The time I spent looking through this thread has nothing on the time and effort you have spent on this build.. Enjoy the car👍
coletrickle ·
2443TT wrote:. Im doing this because after all of 200km the coating on the T1 flanged thrust bearing had started to come off in big chunks. Either the coating was substandard, or my pussy 1700lb pressure plate is too much for even a coated T1 flanged bearing. I'll post more pictures and details once its all done.
Hi Ian,i was wondering if you could put up a pic of the flaking coating on the bearing?Can you flake off any more of the coating and measure the thickness of the flake or measure the bearing on the coated area then the flake area and see what thickness the coating is.The coating should only be 1/2 thou not much more than that.Also did you have the bearings coated before you had your case and crank set up or after?Just trying to figure out why the coating failed?Did you send the bearings to the northside or southside of bris?
2443TT ·
The coating is extremely thin, definatly about a 1/2 a thou as you can't feel the edge of the coating from where it has come off the bearing. The end float was set to 8 thou, and then the bearings were sent away and coated. My guess is that the coatings adhesion to the bearing surface failed.
I can't recall exactly who did the coatings. It might have been competition coatings, or someone else. It was too long ago. I'll post up a pic when I get a chance.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT ·
Here are the pics of half of old thrust bearing.
Where the coating has been rubbed off the height difference has got to be barely 1/2 a thou.
Im now trying to source some Porsche 914/Type 4 thrust shims.
The latest "revised" plan is to put a 1mm step towards the counterweight above the radius off the the number 3 main journal. The three 914 shims will then sit on this step, and run against the standard T1 thrust bearing.
The cam gear will still be cut back a little and will have a couple of T1 thrust shims put on it. This combined with a slotted bearing that will force oil to the thrust surfaces will see the end of this issue.
66deluxe ·
Ian CSP sells new endplay shims for type 4 they even have .38mm ones also. I got a few sets couple weeks back.
2443TT ·
Yep I have contacted them and pelican parts, to try and get freight for 3 shiims to be less than $40. Fixed price website freight is a little excessive...
66deluxe ·
I want to get an upright conversion kit for type 4 off them maybe i could add them to my order and then post them up to you.
2443TT ·
Thanks for the offer. Im searching for alternatives from other manufacturers though to find a quick local solution.
matberry ·
I have some new in stock, I'll check what size.
2443TT ·
Thanks Matt. The thinner the better. I believe the thinnest is 0.24mm or 10 thou. I'll be setting the end float by machining the bearing still, the shims are just going to be for thrust load spreading.
matberry ·
.24 you wish....Ihave a small quantity of nos .34mm type 4 shims. They aren't perfect with some corosion marks, but the clean up fine with a little TLC. Your welcome to however many you'll need.
2443TT ·
Update.
I've had some success and another MAJOR setback.
Thanks to Matt supplying shims I've had the crankshaft and cam drive gear modified so the end float is now configured to work off the number 3 main while using end float shimms each side of the thrust bearing to position the crank and set the end float.
The setback...
My LN engineering nickies and Je pistons arrived today finally. But initial inspections revealed they had drilled the head stud holes incorrectly. The positioning of the spacing is out 90 degrees so nothing lines up. I've measured the pistons too, and because they are configured to work in a Nikasil cylinder with a 1.5 thou clearence they are too big for an iron cylinder (only 3.1 thou) so I can't use them either! So thats 3 months of waiting for parts down the drain.
I'll not post up a bunch of swearing to express how pissed off I am. Safe to say though that I am now pretty much sick of air cooled engines.
I am now waiting on a reply from LN to see what they want to do about their screw up. I really don't want to wait another 3 months.
I am seriously considering selling all my performance aircooled parts and buying a modified WRX engine instead. The car is already setup to handle a moden EFI engine, so with a dry sumped EJ20 I think I could have a better result in the long run.
silver ·
Oh dear! good luck mate, I must say I liked the idea of the big twin turbo bug motor!
2443TT ·
Sorted out this latest issue last night with LN engineering. They were very appoligetic and are endevouring to have a good set of barrels over to me in about 4-6 weeks.
Machining issues aside, they really are beautiful cylinders. The surface finish is flawless. The JE pistons are quite a step up on a CP or a wiseco as well. The surface finish appears much smoother.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
I've got JE pistons for my 2.7 type 4 as well. Very nicely made and light for a big piston(105mm). Got mine off jake raby with Hpc coating on crowns down to ring land. Will be buying some total seal rings to suit but for barrels nickies are out of the budget as I can't afford the 3.5k plus or whatever it was to get them in 105!!
Hopefully this time they will be all good mate. Persist with it your almost there!!
Cheers brennden
matberry ·
I know how you feel Ian., we just received the wrong crank after waiting 6 months for a custom order, also from a top supplier👎👎👎... keep at it mate, you know that there's nothing like a fast air cooler.....
2443TT ·
Update. - Progress at last.
The engine bottom end is now assembled. The number 3 main thrust setup is in and I think it looks pretty good. It required a few basic modifications to get it to all go together.
First, the case. I fitted two dowels to the side of the case that normally doesn't have dowels. These allow me to use the number 2 split main steel back bearing in the number 1 thrust position (both sides of the case locate a bearing half with a dowel, and crush). The number 3 dowel is positioned so oil from the main bearing saddle injects directly through the hole in the bearing, right to the crank.
This is the modified crankshaft snout. The step cut into the front counterweight supports 3 x type 4 thrust shims, with 8 thou of crank step proud of the shimms.
This is the assembled thrust setup. The straight cut gear has also been machined with a step, and carries 3 T1 thrust shims. The main bearing was machined a little to widen the oil channel in the back of the bearing too. End float is set at 4 thou.
Here's the setup in the crankcase. Visually it seems to work great. Rotating the crank I could see the shims against the bearing didnt move, but the other two shims appeard to move at 1/2 crank rotation speed almost as if it were a gearbox. Just like I'd read the standard setup is intended to work.
With oil pressure in the bearing, and oil being able to escape under pressure through the shims it should work very well.
My replacement Nickasil cylinders arrived from LN engineering last weekend, and I have performed a pre-assembly of the top end. Everything fit together perfectly this time, although I need to shave 0.015" off the tops off the crowns of the pistons to achieve my 0.040" deck height. I'll be having this done next week, so next weekend the top end goes together, followed by finally putting the engine back in the car!
Realisticly I am aiming for 4 weeks to startup. I still have a few more little modifications to be done to intake manifolds, and the exhaust setup too.
2443TT ·
More progress.
I spent most of the weekend completing the assembly of the engine to long block stage. The main challange was making some barrel shims to get the deck height correct. I ended up with a 0.045" deck height. With the 20cc dished pistons and 54cc combustion chambers this makes an 8.46:1 compression. This should make the engine plenty potent enough off boost to drive now.
Here's a picture of how much thicker the nickies are than a conventional 94mm bore. The dull inner ring on the end of the cylinder shows the sealing area where the cylinders have been lapped into the heads. They are 104mm OD vs 101.12 of a normal iron cylinder.
A close up of the work that Dave Butler did for me. The cylinder heads were opened up to 104mm and then the head studs were moved diagonally outwards 2mm from the center of the bore. Dave also cut a 0.5mm step off the outer edge of the cylinder head sealing area. This is to maximise seal/clamping pressure of the nickie to the head with the same sealing surface area as a iron cylinder. Also to to prevent the cylinder being held up in the outer edge of the cylinder especially where the old stud holes are.
Heads on.
I am currently re-working my porsche fan srhoud with some alloy sheet metal to better channel air through the heads and nickies. Hope to make more progress mid week if work permits.
matberry ·
Great work Ian, looks sweet. Question; how do you get the timing gear off the crank with your #3 endfloat set-up?
2443TT ·
Hi Matt.
End float was set at the machine shop. I used 3 shims each side of the bearing, 6 total.
Crankshaft position was first set to center the rod journals over the center of the cylinder bores. Then the rear counterweight was machined for the T4 thrust shims to set a 0.000" clearence against the thrust bearing.
The straight cut cam gear was finally machined to hold 3 more T1 shims, and the end float was set by the final cut on the cam gear.
Im not sure how they did the machining on the gear because the 8640 chromoly gear steel combined with the intermittent cut would have been a bitch to machine in a lathe. Sorry but I forgot to take pictures of the gear before putting it together. Its basically the same thing as what was done to the crank though.
matberry ·
I agree, would have been a pain to machine.
I was meaning though, there is no room now to fit a VW gear puller under the timing gear as now there is a full shim pack there. Thought maybe drilled and tapped the gear and modified the puller or something to actually remove the gear from the crank. If not during trial assembly, at least in the future this will be required.
2443TT ·
Ah, yes you are right Matt. But have you ever pulled the cam drive gear and not replaced the main bearings at the same time? I'll mod my gear puller to fit on the bearing side of the thrust shims, and pull from there. It will destroy the bearing but thats ok.
Here's the latest. I've put a lot of effort into making the whole setup easier to work on. As anyone with a turbo bug will know, you have to put the engine in the car and then build the rest of the turbo system around it. This setup can be fitted and removed easily in one piece, with just the removal of the 4 main bolts.
The header is nearly finished. I just need to attach an external 44mm wastegate, which will be on the drivers side of the car. The wastegate exhaust will plumb back into the 3" dump from the right side turbo. I am really happy with how it worked out. Each turbo is attached ith a V-Band clamp to the header, and takes only seconds to remove to allow rocker cover access. I've got a fancy 3" in/out aluminium muffler on order too, to replace the steel ones I was using. The new muffler is larger and also weighs less that 1KG! The right side turbo will always be muffled. The left side is going to blow straight out a 3" pipe which is going to be nice and loud. But as this turbo is only operating under full load and above 4000 rpm, this should be fine. It might even pass a noise test, since they are done at 2500 rpm with no load.
The intake manifolds and plenum are just sitting there for the moment. I am having extra bungs welded on the plenum, so that I can use an Idle speed control valve with the new setup.
I've gone to a lot of effort to get everything to seal up perfectly. All joins in the fan shround and tinware (aluminium), have a rubber seal in between. I've used nut inserts into the alloy. There are 4 plates that lock in place around the exhaust outlets and press against the block. These actually hold the carbon 911 shroud down and in place.
I've done away with the conventional strap to hold the 993 alternator/fan in place, and have 3 x 12mm high tensile bolts holding it down to the alternator mount. This looks a lot cleaner in my opinion.
The ends of the fan shround above each head were completely opened up. This area is always a pain in the ass to get to seal on the comp eliminator style heads so I came up with something new. Ive now got 2 x 8mm studs that come out from the webbing on the head between the exhaust ports and the intake manifolds. These hold a shaped alloy plate with rubber seal in place, and press it firmly against the shroud. There are no spark plug holes at all. I will notch the shroud to allow the plug wires out of the shroud, and am using 90 degree plug fittings on the MSD leads. Again, much cleaner, plus it seals.
I've revised the fuel system considerably. The Holly black will feed a surge tank that is to be mounted at the back of the car, via 3/8th hose, and return to the tank via a fuel cooler mounted in the middle of the front suspension bars. The surge tank will have twin 910 pumps feeding each rail and returning centrally to the aeromotive FPR, then returning to the surge tank. This is a bit big for BP98 fuel, but will be perfect for E85 in the future.
Excuse the phone quality picture. I'll take better pictures when the setup is finalised.
Thats all for now.
tar76 ·
🤪 Fu@KKKKKKK. Man that is Nice!!
vassy66T1 ·
Great lateral thinking to deal with so many challenges ... kudos to you
nbturbo ·
Jeezus you blokes are so lucky to have Dangerous close and handy to perform so many miracles.It's coming along really good-well done.
dangerous ·
nbturbo wrote:Jeezus you blokes are so lucky to have Dangerous close and handy to perform so many miracles.It's coming along really good-well done.
Ian did most of the small details himself, since he lives 2000km or so north of me.
I only had a small hand in the head and case machining,
and the occasional sounding board.
2443TT ·
And quite a useful sounding board you are Dave! I couldn't have come this far without your advice and expert machining skills.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Looking good Ian!! Man after my own heart with making everything fit nice and uncluttered and clean!! We did the same with troys Porsche fan when it was in the type 3. Ditched the strap and countersunk bolts into the fan housing with nylocks through the alternator stand mount. Looks far cleaner and a lil less weight as well. Can't wait to hear it run!!
Turbo54 ·
Looks awesome Ian, I know what you mean but like you I now can get mine out of the car in one unit although getting one of the 4 bolts is very tight.
Can you tell me where you found the aluminium muffler?
Thanks
Heath
They do 3", 3.5" and 4" too which is handy. The rule of thumb is 1" / 100kw atw. Titanium would have been nice too, but are impossible to come by inless you want to chop up a $1500+ jap import exhaust. This was the next best thing, and the weight is right at 0.9kg.
Much better than a 15KG stainless steel muffler more suited to some big bore v8. I'd be willing to bet that my new header and exhaust will save me 15-20kg all up.
Turbo54 ·
Holy s--t there well priced. Only problem is that my whole exhaust is only 1.5 feet long and I am only expecting around 300hp at the wheels so 3" might be a little large.
Do you think I could get away with it?
Pictures here on page 7
I could just run the pipe and 180 degree the pipe and exit it through the muffler.
The plus is that I should be able to just hang it off the turbo housing without all the crazy mount that the stainless one needs.
T54
2443TT ·
Go 3" for sure and no its not too large the less back pressure on the system the better.
The muffler has a 5" OD and is 14" long. This might be an issue under the guard for you as its a tight fit under there. An oval shaped muffler fits a lot better under stock fenders. Your car's looking great too!
Turbo54 ·
Thanks Ian, goes of to the panel shop in 2 weeks to have the body finished off.
I thought maybe of running it up out the turbo straight through the muffler and run the pipe under the irs arm and exit it infront of the passenger rear wheel.
This was the original way I was going to do it but I changed when I found the muffler with the inlet and outlet on the same side. Any ideas.
Thanks
Heath
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Troy had 400mm of exhaust from the turbo to tailpipe. No muffler just straight out the turbo with screamer pipe on external wastegate!! Was a bit noisy at idle but once on full boost it wasn't that bad!! 3" pipe with no restrictions lol
2443TT ·
The latest progress.
No longer just a mock up assembly, the engine is now finally back together. All oil supply and scavenge lines are connected. The primary exhaust header is now 100% finished.
I ended up being able to use the internal wastegates in the turbo's, which is a nice weight saving for the whole setup, although I certainly can't lift the whole engine as it is at the moment.
Just wiring to do tomorrow and then it goes back in the car.
Bizarre ·
unbelievable!
👍
😁
4agedub ·
Very nice.
Do you mind sharing what size turbos you are using?
I've been thinking abount building a twin turbo t4 for a while now and using a set of 2jzgte turbos with the sequential valve setup.
2443TT ·
Im using Greddy/Trust GTR spec T517z turbo's with 8cm housings. I believe they are Mitsubishi cored turbo's. They are a bush bearing turbo, and oil cooled only. They are rated at 350hp a piece, and are classed as a responsive turbo on a 2.6lt. Nissan GTR engines run them in parallel.
Flow maps compare then to a Garrett GT3040R with an .82 housing, so once on boost they will flow enough air to make ~400hp to the tyres at around 1.5 bar, yet also be very unrestrictive in top end which will aid in exhaust flow and keeping EGT's at the lower end of the scale.
Their equalivent garret turbo would be the GT2860-5 which is a water cooled ball bearing turbo.
The 2JZ setup is very heavy and not at all adaptive to a flat 4.
My valving setup for the sequential operation is pretty experimental and more closely resembles the subari liberty setup where the valving for the second stage turbo is on the hot side of the manifold. I'll share some more details about it if it works.
The latest is that the new intake manifold setup is all finished and is now installed on the engine. I have to get a couple more bungs welded on for pressure take off lines, but thats it really.
I am hoping to start the car this weekend. All that remains is changing the oil in the dry sump tank, and completing the hookup of the high pressure side of the fuel system.
4agedub ·
Thanks.
Please share more details once you have it running properly.
The 2jzgte turbos should be sized fairly good for a big type 4. On the toyota engine they are actually a little too small and run out of boost from about 5500rpm. With the sequential valves open permanently, the toyota archives full boost around 2500rpm. I've got a set of real nice 2jz turbos, thus the reason for looking into them. 🙂 Otherwise, maybe a single GTX3076 Garrett. 🙂
2443TT ·
Update!
Fuel system nearly finished.
Exhaust sytem finished.
Oil system cleaned, re-filled and primed. Dam I love this dry sump setup! I can get 75psi of oil pressure through the engine with a drill driving the pump.
Just electrical to re-check tomorrow. Fuel pumps to wire, and some minor electical alterations. Hope to be starting this weekend!
matberry ·
Awesome Ian 🙂👍
volkdent ·
A plumbers nightmare, but beautiful none the less! Can't wait to hear about the startup/running.
Jason
2443TT ·
Thanks guys.
If you think under the engine lid looks crowded, you should see under the parcel shelf... Where the air filters and intake piping, intercooler and pressure piping, surge tanks, fuel pumps, fuel lines, vacuum and pressure lines and of course the wiring ! I'll post a picture when its done.
No noise just yet but the fuel system is now finished. I only managed to get 1/2 the wiring done today but hope to finish it tomorrow morning.
4agedub ·
Looking good. I'm sure this thing will be a beast
2443TT ·
Its Alive! Finally. 😁
I've been itching to start the car the last few days but had opted to get the last of some changes made to intake manifold piping. With all that done now, today was finally the day.
The car started and ran on the 3rd attempt thanks to the mapping that I had from the last time I had the engine together. I have only had to make some changes to base timing as the setup is now running from a triggers that fire off the back of the flywheel.
The new flywheel trigger setup triggers directly off two extra long pressure plate bolts that are installed at 180 degree. I have a hall effect sensor installed through the back of the engine case to detect these longer bolts that protrude 3mm through the back of the flywheel. They trigger at around 52 degrees BTDC. Im using the same cam trigger as before which is mounted in the factory oil pump location.
There is still plenty to do before I can drive the car, but now that I've heard it run I should be able to get through it all pretty quickly. Most of it is tidying up vacuum lines and also fitting solenoids for the sequential valving.
Here's a video of the car idling around 1100 rpm. Its a little rough still but you get the idea. Throttle response is still a little slow off idle, but more tuning will help with this. The higher compression has greatly improved the crispness of the engine.
reub ·
Great work dude!
Sides ·
Good stuff Ian - sounds tough as !!!
👍
Re the throttle response - have you considered using more than two 180 deg separated marks for the flywheel trigger... say instead of 2:1 either 4:1 or even 12:1 ???
Way was explained when setting up mine is that the number of "teeth" affects how quickly the ECU registers changes in engine rev's... letting the ECU move up the map earlier in response to a throttle input, as well as giving more consistent/accurate calcs for BTDC.
Race cars tend to use less teeth...V8 Supercar are a I think 4:1... while street cars use more, like as much as 36:1.
Just an idea of course... could be that makes naff all difference in reality, and I guess tough to mess with anyway now it's all bolted together.
2443TT ·
I see where your going with this. Adding more reference points can give the ECU an option to calculate the engine speed on the last two pulses before a Reference pulse, or on a group of them. Calculating RPM more accurately will allow the ignition angle and injection phasing angles to be more accurate, and therefore more responsive by having an optimal ignition curve.
I could run 6 longer bolts and have 6 reference points, and then just tell the ECU to skip 2 of the 3 pulses that it gets before it counts another Reference pulse. I'll have to ask Wolf if there is a benefit in doing this my the v500 ecu.
dangerous ·
Very sweet ian!!!
silver ·
Whats the expected output in Kw? if unknown yet can we have a guessing comp? winner might get a ride?
Sides ·
2443TT wrote:I could run 6 longer bolts and have 6 reference points, and then just tell the ECU to skip 2 of the 3 pulses that it gets before it counts another Reference pulse. I'll have to ask Wolf if there is a benefit in doing this my the v500 ecu.
I wasn't aware of the pulsing thing with the Wolf... far as I know my Haltech uses all teeth for RPM and Crank position calcs... just a different way to flay the same feline I guess.
But yeah, you're getting what I was thinking... I think !!!
😉
2443TT ·
The wolf's triggering setup can adapt to just about anything you can dream up. Though I'm not sure if it would use all of the 6 pulses that it would get in a 360 degree roation for RPM calculation or not. It might just use the elapsed time between the last two pulses, which in theory produces a more accurate reading as the engine speed can't change as much before the reference point. Using all the points the ecu could probably calculate a rate of acceleration/deceleration between multiple crank rotatational points. I don't see that as being likely though.
As it is, most crank based trigger setups are FAR superior to any cam based trigger system. Especially on anything modern with a over head cam setup driven by a belt. Stretch of the belt during high revs can cause ignition and cam timing to move 2-3 degrees on a Nissan GTR engine. EJ20's would be worse if they didn't use a crank trigger as the belt is even longer. All the top end tune cars i've seen switch to a crank based trigger for this reason. They usually are able to finely tune top end a little better for the ultimate power tune and a smoother torque curve. But really such a higly tuned engine is also a bit of a time bomb. If your engine can't tolerate 2-3 degrees of ignition drift occasionally, it certainly won't tolerate a bad tank of fuel without detonation.
Power estimates... a conservitave 300hp to the tyres at 1 bar boost should be easily achivable and should be nice and drivable for the street. With water/meth injection and 1.4-1.5 bar that should make 400-440 whp. That will also max the current injectors.
My goals for this car have changed over the years and power isn't enough for me anymore. I want a more drivable experience and a wide power band. When Townsville drag strip closes next month, the closest drag strip to me is a good 16 hour return trip so it will probably never see a drag strip unless someone starts doing the 1/8th mile events at the Innisfail airport again. It should be good fun at the sprint events that I compete in though. I'll be in the same class as the nissan silvia's and the 5lt v8's.
modnrod ·
Honda did timing off the cam instead of at the crank (back in the days of twin points........you beauty) on the old CB350twins, amongst others. Those things spun up to 10000 when you had a small Megacycle cam and a bit of compression. The standard motor at 8500 redline had as much as 5deg timing difference, but just to make it interesting, the timing could waver BOTH ways, adv or retd, and quite often at 10000 it would waver 6 or 7 degrees like a resonance sort of thing.
Made tuning somewhat problematic........😂
Thank goodness for crank triggers!
2443TT ·
Made a fair bit of progress today finalising the vacuum lines, boost lines, and the solenoids that control the valves. Its getting complicated and pretty crouded in there.
I still need to fit an idle control valve, one more solenoid, a coolant pump for the water-air intercooler system and its air bleed valve. And then there is the water/meth injection system to deal with!
Wiring is close to finished. It will all be loomed together once its finished and the last two valves are wired. Ive been able to keep with the concept of a single plug to allow the engine to be easily isolated from the EFI loom thanks to a main harness plug from a hyundai sonata I raided at the wreckers.
Does this look crouded or what!
You can see the fuel system fairly well here. Two pumps and 2 surge tanks, each feeding a rail with a centrally mounted regulator.
cam070 ·
I'd love to see the look on a regular mechanics face if you rocked up and asked for a tune up or to have a problem fixed. I reckon it would take them a day to try and figure out what you have created, .......mind you, what you have created is amazing!
bronte17 ·
Nice!!!!
2443TT ·
Thanks guys.
The car had its first outing about 2 weeks ago, I forgot to post up a photo.
Here's a pic before I washed it. Its got the carbon fibre engine lid back on the car now.
I didn't go far as the car needs to be re-tuned from scratch. I've been too busy with work lately to spend more time on the car. Hopefully in the next few weeks I'll be not working all weekend for a change and can have some fun.
vassy66T1 ·
Great stuff Ian
The complexity of the build still blows me away
Ollie ·
Any updates Ian?
benny_acko ·
^^And any more recent video footage?
Looks amazing!!Great stuff!
2443TT ·
Hi Guys,
Sorry for the slow reply, for some reason I only received notifications of your posts today which is odd...
Latest developments are that I have changed the wheels and tyres, as the porsche wheels were looking pretty old and tired. The semi slicks on them had a few cracks too and weren't safe to drive on anymore.
So The car now has a set of Volk Racing TE37's in titanium grey, 18x8.5 fronts and 18x10.5 rears. I went with Fereral 595 RSR semi slicks too, as they are about the best semi you can get at the moment that is still streetable, yet not a competition tyre like an RE55. 235's and 285's from memory.
The main hold up with progress has been that I have too many projects on the go. Renovating a house, working long hours etc don't give me much time to finish the last of the car. In recent months, all I've done is work on the house. Building false walls, plaster boarding, and cornice. Now undercoat finally...
This last part of the puzzle with the car has been the engine management and tuning software that I am working on. I can't say much more about it than that at the moment, but will reveal more about this when its closer to being finished.
Cheers,
Ian
1303Steve ·
Hi Ian
Good to hear your still going on the project. You will love the Federals, I have them on my bug.
Steve
Ollie ·
This thing ever get finished?
2443TT ·
Is a project car ever finished?
I haven't done anything new to the car since the wheel change last year. The project has been on hold so I could finish my house, which is finally nearing completion.
I've only driven the car a few times and it has gone well on those occasions. I do need to do something to quieten it down a bit though. When the house is finished I am planning on switching back to a single turbo, most likely a Precision 5558 or 5858. This will allow me to fit a better muffler system and reduce the complexity of the whole setup a little.
modulus ·
Great to hear that this beautiful project is still on the simmer. Looking forward to any updates when convenient.
avwboy ·
Firstly love the car and the engineering that has gone into it... Have been following it quietly since you started posting 🙂
You mention a wheel change last year ?
I just looked back through a few pages but couldn't see anything, does it no longer have the directionals on it ?
reub ·
Nice wheels dude 😉
Turbo54 ·
Where's the like button.
Kent ·
this thing is boss ! would love to know whats going on with it now
modnrod ·
reub wrote:Nice wheels dude 😉
Mmmm!
TE37s? 😎
karmann141 ·
Any updates ?
There's a new 1/4 mile drag strip at Springmount near Mareeba now, only an 1hr and a bit away from you - would be a good test bed.
bugzla ·
tell me if you go im down in townsville and would love to see the car up close
2443TT ·
Springmount has been open for only 2 events so far and yes I defiantly want get up there at some stage. Unfortunately no updates to report. Between work and home renovations I've not had any time. I'm itching to get back into it though.
karmann141 ·
Great to hear the project is just on the back burner. I know what it's like getting caught up with life.
Was doing some work at the Springmount landfill site beside the track - looks like a great facility - much needed in NQ.
