just a quick one...

Just at the stages of painting
So far the process
De-ox
Etch prime
Epoxy prime
Then...
I can only smooth, sand and fill (if needed) ontop of the epoxy? Hence why I use the epoxy as etch is stickier and you can't sand or put bog ontop of this?

Is this correct?
Just wasn't sure about etching and epoxying and why I should do both.

Thanks in advance
Nat
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? Nothing? 🙁

i am replying to bump your thread so you can get an answer. i have no idea so right now i'm as useless as boobs on a bull!! hope the bump helps.🤪

The bump did help.
You need the etch to properly bind to the metal, then the epoxy primer provides a substrate that your fillers and paints will adhere to. (Make sure all your products are compatible) I would even recommend sticking with one brand these days for this reason.
I was told this just days ago by the BRS rep, whom I have known for 25 years, he has just become a paint rep after owning/running/working in a panel shop since before I met him. (get the idea, he has lots of expierience)

Body filler needs to be done on bare metal but if you just want to straighten a panel then a hi-build primer will suffice. Make sure you have the correct gun setup for shooting primers(1.8-2.0 tip). Paint is usually 1.4. This is all depending on what brand so get a tech sheet from the paint rep. I also recomm. using a complete paint system(everything from one brand or as recomm. by paint store)

This is how I personally do it but I am self taught. Helbus and Alan(Dasdubber)know alot more.
1: Baremetal- Do rust repair.
2: Treat with Rust Convertor. Leave for a day or two. Then clean surface throughly.
3: Spot repair big repairs w body filler
3: Epoxy Etch Primer
4: High Build Primer
5: Primer Surfacer(which usually is a thinned down version of step 4)
6: Guide coat-sand and repeat step 4 or 5 if ness.
7: Base coat
8: Clear coat

This is a very very rough guide btw so hope it helps-Wayne🙂

matberry wrote:The bump did help.
You need the etch to properly bind to the metal, then the epoxy primer provides a substrate that your fillers and paints will adhere to. (Make sure all your products are compatible) I would even recommend sticking with one brand these days for this reason.
I was told this just days ago by the BRS rep, whom I have known for 25 years, he has just become a paint rep after owning/running/working in a panel shop since before I met him. (get the idea, he has lots of expierience)

I should have then said, anyone with more trade expierence please correct me if required.

Firstly thank you for the bump

And for the info supplied! Fantastic help! 🙂

Will crack on soon and see how I go, will no doubt be back! As I'm grinding and welding at the moment :S

Thanks heaps peeps 😀

Nat
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matberry has it pretty right. We do mostly $100K plus resto's at my work, and we do

- Bare metal by abrasive blasting
- All metal repairs, rust, lead wiping etc.
- Secondary abrasive blast, as sometime 2-3 months of metal repairs means surface rust again.
- Etch prime
- 2 Part epoxy
- Filler
- Prime
- Putty
- Prime
- Paint

Usually the body is fully rubbed down about 20 times along the way with various grits of sandpaper.

ace thanks hell bus.

Loads of help and really appreciate it

Nat
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