Well basically i've got a 1916 with dual 44's Webers and personally (not to offend) i don't like the popped lid look, even the lower popped lid.
I was hoping that someone may have some ideas??
I've heard of running some ducting from the rear parcel tray near the gearbox throught the back firewall to the air intake on the fan, but then theres the issue of getting rid of hot air, not just getting more air.
Any ideas?
W decklid BTW.
type3vw ·
i have a louvered boot lid unless your not a fan of that style
Bizarre ·
Pop your number plate on say 1cm spacers and cut the area out behind the number plate
Also take off the plate in FRONT of the motor. The one that crosses the gear box
vw54 ·
my 1916 is running OK just havea external oil cooler and fuel injection on the 65
its not geting hot at all
Mick058 ·
Hey Bizarre, i like that idea, makes sense.
vw54, im running dual 44 IDF's at the moment, i was told that unless i get the hot air out, even with an oil cooler (which is in the works) she will still get hot. Did you find this or have you always had EFI.
hellbugged ·
i wouldn't take the forwrd engine tin off........
here about 1/3 way down the page. no need to pop the lid since these
I don't think the oil cooler will fix Your problem
as Your engine just needs more air....
having the engine lid open at the top doesn't look good in My opinion too...
but putting cool air into the engine bay is more important than looks...
You could take the front plate out and duct air from underneath... into the engine bay...
plus with a hole under the number plate will let the air flow thru....
If You fit hood jax to your engine lid, You can close the engine lid at any time in a few seconds...
After you have spent the next three months asking questions, chopped into tinware 🙅 sliced holes in your inner guards, put holes behind your numberplate 🤘 added ice coolers to your intakes 😎 magnets to your fuel lnes ❗ closed in your carby intakes and connected them to pipes under the car, chopped out your firewall and added a piece of air conditioning duct to the front passenger footwell 😂 installed an oil cooler above your gearbox and another one in your front bumper... 🤓
give me a call and I will be happy to mail you a set of Hoodjax that can on and off your car in 20 seconds and will keep your engine cool 😉
hellbugged ·
yes hoodjax are easy on, easy off , and leave little sign they were ever there (two 10mm holes) if you decide against them. i have and use hoodjax when the need arises, they for sure work effectively
.........but heres another not so intrusive way if you don't want your boot popped.
............running these on my current motor, i have the same engine temperatures wether the hood is propped or closed........if we had a wind tunnel we could work out exactly why........but alas🥲
from page 12, or 8........
rear tin fresh air rams were also finished up.......
coincidence that the correct size tube happens to be the V.W air tubes...............think not🙅
down into the high pressure area below the torsion housings untill i make up some scoops (shaped like a vacaumn cleaner head) that will also feed the oil cooler above the gearbox.......
Craig Torrens ·
Have you tried blocking the ducts and just running the hoodjaxs ?
hellbugged ·
yeah, might do some experiments..........why not👍
Mick058 ·
Looks good dumone, kind of what i wanted to do, but how about hot air getting out? Do you have grills in your boot lid??
matberry ·
Isn't your fan doing that already at 24 c ft/sec. (@ 4000 rpm)?
If your engine is set up correctly, cooling system, comp. ratio, jetting etc, you shouldn't have any cooling issues!
hellbugged ·
no Mick, no grills.
yeah Matt that's it!
......also i thought the principle was that between the carbs, fan & the extra rpm the engine bay can get straved for air. the vents above the bootlid are then no longer adequate as the sole source of fresh air..........that's why i was particularly interested in getting more air in via a method that didn't compromise keeping the hot air out(specially exhaust)
matberry ·
Yeah Damo, as displacement and RPM goes up, so does air volume. We all know that the wide fan with a doghouse needs the four vent decklid, and definately keep that exhaust temp OUT! I also like to retain the thermostat flaps, and I also like to have a heat shield attached to the exhaust where it is close to the rear tin ware. VW did this on all type 3 and 4 engines, although many engine builders seem to know better.
Matt
Craig Torrens ·
matberry wrote:Isn't your fan doing that already at 24 c ft/sec. (@ 4000 rpm)?
If your engine is set up correctly, cooling system, comp. ratio, jetting etc, you shouldn't have any cooling issues!
Not 100% right....................even VW realised that increasing the cc displacement of the motor from 1300 to 1500 and then to 1600 they had to make quite a few changes to the cooling system as well as to the body.
So having a larger displacement motor in an early shell will always run hotter, so yes you will have cooling issues.
punchbuggyracer ·
Would exhaust wrap lower the temp at all?
vw54 ·
but how about hot air getting out? Do you have grills in your boot lid??
the grills are for allowing cold air into the engine
How HOT is HOT what are you gauging the engine temp off ???
Mick058 ·
Well, it's actually precautions. I've got no interior at the moment and nows the time to stick holes about the place. The 1916 is in and i just got the carbs so ill have it running in the next week or so but wont be able to road test run it.
I also want to go bigger, or sup'd up 1916 in the next year or so, so i want to make sure i get things right now before i get everything in and engineered.
From what i've read and heard it seems most people pop their lid to keep the engine running cool. Mike at vintage said that he put a whole and ducting from below the gearbox through the firewall and that worked. Though i've also been told that while enough air is getting to the engne, not enough hot air is getting out, therefore keeping the engine bay hot.
It's interesting because there are a few different theories but i was hoping to hear practical working applications.
VWCOOL ·
matberry wrote:Isn't your fan doing that already at 24 c ft/sec. (@ 4000 rpm)?
If your engine is set up correctly, cooling system, comp. ratio, jetting etc, you shouldn't have any cooling issues!
Yeah, you are right, and modifying the cooling system and bodyshell etc to support doubling or tripling of the VW's standard 50 or 60hp output is part of that 'set-up'.
Mick058 ·
ha, yep. Well i'm trying to find the best 'setup' before i get to much of the interior of my car done and it engineered.
Ampdub ·
What about scoups in the rear guards like porsche have, just a thought. then again if you want to keep it looking standard yours is the way to go but would you be picking up any hot air off the road?
1303Steve ·
Hi
I've seen a few cars with a big bit of PVC drain pipe going up through the luggage area and then through the firewall to feed cool air to the fan.
Steve
Mick058 ·
Steve, this is what im going to try. Hopefully enough hot air gets out aswell. Time will tell. Maybe cut holes behind the number plate to see if that will work if issues occur.
1303Steve ·
Hi
The twin vents in a 71 bug engine lid look very much like genuine cabrio vents. Im pretty sure these are what CT (fullnoise) uses in his car, a good panel beater can fit these without any sign foul play.
Steve
Mick058 ·
yeh, i've seen a few like that. May have to do that. It can look quite good.
h ·
hey
on my 54 T1 ive louvered the deck lid and pulled the lens from the tail light to give enuff air flow to keep my baby coool as..
previously i had the stand offs on
but the pots would fill with h2o when it would sit in the rain.. no fun
every bus - T2 ive had i have raked the no. plate about 1-2 inches from the lid and bore holes (52mm hole saw) for the hot air to escape and man it works an absolute treat every time..
run so cool and sweet yeah
just some ideas that ive used and they work good.. real good in fact..
cheers pauly
h ·
heres a pic fyi..
cheers
Mick058 ·
looks pretty cool! you running a 1916 or bigger?
mactaylor ·
also try and use any extra air in a way that vents up into the dead air about where the vent bellow the window as negative pressure will make the system work better and create less drag.
Mick058 ·
ye, i've heard that. If you start putting air through from the gearbox area you can kill the suction effect of the window vents, due to the aero-dynamics of the beetle design...rather interesting...
mactaylor ·
from my limited knowledge, a naca style vent that runs from say the back seat foot well to over the fire wall with minor restrictions will work the best, also make the duct with more surface area as you go, dont restrict it as this completely negates any gains. remember, PATH OF LEAST RESISTANCE.
VeeRod ·
punchbuggyracer wrote:Would exhaust wrap lower the temp at all?
Yeah that Exhaust wrap works well and will indeed lower the heat emitting from the pipes around the engine. As an added bonus you will also gain horsepower as exhaust gas moves quicker over a hot surface. The exhaust wrap actually increases the temp inside the pipe which then creates a more slippery surface which equals faster exhaust gas exit speeds =horsepower.
I've use exhaust wrap on my race bikes with good effect. done right with lock wire etc it will last a while.
Cheers
VWCOOL ·
Exhaust wrap is not as much use for cooling a VW Beetle as the exhaust promaries are outside the engine bay
Joel ·
agreed
alot of ppl dont seem to realise that all the vents on the body work of bugs is for letting cold air in not hot air out
all the hot air is discharged out the bottom of the engine
which is why propping decklids at the bottom which alot of ppl seem to do is so f**king stupid
the fan just sucks in all the hot air from the cylinders and zorst
in 76 vw put a thermostatically operated flap under the numberplate light that opened when the engine bay got to a set temp
not many of these around let alone ones that work but u can do something urself similar like this: