Thought you guys might get a kick out of this..... Some of you guys know I have been wanting to do this for years and I've been collecting bits for the 'BIG-ONE' for years.... But to give myself some turbo dub experience I allowed myself to be talked into doing this to the POS60.....
Also.... Im looking for one of those dual can/barbed dizzies off LBugs....
Can anyone help?
Looks kinda like this....
hypo-vw ·
looks to me like you are about to have heaps of fun with this new project . looks good so far ... keep us posted with pics humpty .
I will check on that dizzy for you , I think I might have a couple in stock . Do you have one with a buggered vacuum diaphram , or dont you have one at all . I do have a new replacement diaphram in stock also . Wayne .
humpty ·
I'm looking at using that dizzy as a 'boost/retard' deal on the POS60. By leaving the inside (retard) port open to atmosphere and connecting the outside port (the black one in the pic) to a manifold source, I should be able to use this to retard spark under boost.... At least thats how I think it will work.... But I have bee through my stash and I don't think I have one.... I still need to dig through my brothers stuff.... But I do need to get one this week, otherwise I'll be using the 09 I have....
And thanks for the support....
Stanley ·
Good stuff Humpty.
Before I was running the sigma dissy I used the 009 and modified it so it would only see a max of 24deg. I have the sigma dissy set the same. Although the thought seems to be the more boost you run you can even bring it back to 21deg. I haven't tried it yet but will soon.
cheers
humpty ·
Got a question for those in the know.... Should I fit a muffler?
The car in question is one of those "bitsa", no budget specials, so loved by the anti establishment these days.... It owes sweet FA, runs a IHI RB5 VF11 turbo (still need to source a carbon seal for it... Know where I can get one??) and a home brew draw-through zorst with a side draft weber.... The system is all stainless (cause thats what I had) and the engine is POS 1835 that is basically stock... Will fit HD single springs and solid shafts very soon....
My dump pipe is made from 3" mandrels and pops down behind #4, near the oil pump cover.... So.... As the title suggests, my question is "Should I fit a muffler on this baby, or will the turbo be 'enough muff' for my streeter?
Dero ·
Stuff the muffler, just have some fun... :P
Im gonna be back in Perth soon, I will look forward to seeing this one!!
1303Steve ·
Hi Humpty
Old school but it should still make your sphincter tighten. Maybe Fred at Turbo Logic in the Gong can help.
Steve
dangerous ·
Stanley has no muffler.
But also uses a short 'race pipe' for the track (90 degree)
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Driving it on the street??? Maybe just put a super trap on the end of the pipe. that way it's easy to remove for racing.
Stanley ·
The turbo will quieten it down substantially. As dave said I have no muffler and it's relatively quiet until you put your boot into it.
The beauty of a volksy is no one suspects anything. I've had cops follow but to them it's a standard old slow volksy....😵
humpty ·
Thought I had better show you guys the car.....
Pre yellow sticker....
Back on the road.....
It looks a little old school now, so I thought I'd chuck in the turbo....😵💫
dangerous ·
Lookin' good there Simon!
See you CAN work with white (cream)!
Very 'artsy' photos.
How did you go with the ERCO wheel bolts?(combination of parts)
Stanley ·
very nice...nice stance to
humpty ·
dangerous wrote:Lookin' good there Simon!
See you CAN work with white (cream)!
Very 'artsy' photos.
How did you go with the ERCO wheel bolts?(combination of parts)
Cheers Dave.... I ended up using 60º taper wheel bolts with ball seat adapter washers.... And it looks like they have 'bedded in' a bit now too...
Also took out the 4" beam and fitted my 2" number in.. The adjusters are set at the stock height with drop spindles and she rides so nice!.... But I might drop it down a little all-round once she's back on the road....
And white seems to work better for you.... Or is that cream?🙅
Stanley wrote:very nice...nice stance to
Cheers Andrew.... Glad you like....
GTMac ·
Love the stance of this car, would love to see it when hit in the guts and the rear squats. Good stuff. 😂
humpty ·
Cheers guys.... Thanks so much for the comments.... The ol'POS is slowly coming together, but as I go, I find I still need a few things.... Does anyone out there have a twin inlet banjo fitting for a DCOE Weber?... I have a twin outlet fuel pressure reg and thought it safer to use both lines out instead of blocking one off.... And two lines into the carb will help more fuel get there anyway...
Turbo54 ·
Keep it rollin on Humpty,
Looks like a load of fun. As said the turbo will chop down the noise but I am going to run a muffler on mine. Mine is pretty free flowing and tucks up under the passenger guard. It's a magnaflow. I think if you were pulled over and could talk them around the turbo you would still get picked on for no muffler.
T54
humpty ·
Turbo54 wrote:Keep it rollin on Humpty,
Looks like a load of fun. As said the turbo will chop down the noise but I am going to run a muffler on mine. Mine is pretty free flowing and tucks up under the passenger guard. It's a magnaflow. I think if you were pulled over and could talk them around the turbo you would still get picked on for no muffler.
T54
Yeah.... My thoughts exactly.... The local plod are onto this car already.... do I really need to give them many more excuses to sticker me?... So now I need to track down a good used muffler/resonator.... Off to the performance shops I go.... Alway on the scrounge...🤪
humpty ·
Latest news fellas.... Got bugger all done on the car over the weekend.... Went lawn bowling on Friday night... Started at 6.30pm and finished at 1.00am!!! Fark it was fun!.... But after many beers and little food I was trashed the next day.... I didn't even make it home.... I'm way too old for this shite....
Anyway.... Did some on the zorst tonight... Pretty much done actually.... Just need to make up the fillets for the dump pipe flange, make the muffler support bracket and then TIG the whole thing up....
PS:.... That muffler I got from NZ it bloody awesome!
1303Steve ·
Hi
That looks really neat.
Steve
Stanley ·
Nice work humpty....be prepared for it to develop some heat though.
I had to put some heat proof tape in areas and I still ended up with some paint bubbling on the rear apron and deck lid.
Cheers
humpty ·
Stanley wrote:Nice work humpty....be prepared for it to develop some heat though.
I had to put some heat proof tape in areas and I still ended up with some paint bubbling on the rear apron and deck lid.
Cheers
Yeah.... I thought as much.... Might look at a pumpkin bag as well.... Development never ends with these things does it?!😂
Turbo54 ·
Humpty it looks really neat. Did you look at going through the side wall in the bay out to under the guard? That way all the heat is kept out of the engine bay an it would have less big bends.
Just a thought.
T54
humpty ·
Turbo54 wrote:Humpty it looks really neat. Did you look at going through the side wall in the bay out to under the guard? That way all the heat is kept out of the engine bay an it would have less big bends.
Just a thought.
T54
Yeah.... I did think of that for a bit..... And now you have me thinking about it again!... Damn it!😂... With a muffler like that, I could run the zorst straight down the inner guard and out the LH rear.... The I guess I could mount the (future) oil filter under the apron..... or somink...
Turbo54 ·
I run a oberg (will post pics soon) and mounted it directly to the deep sump under the oil pump. loads of room and when you drop the oil it is all in one area. 😉
T54
Stanley ·
Although I have some under bonnet heat it runs quite cool. I also have stand offs which are a must. My late model deck lid also has the vents which help.
My new car will have a scoops in the side windows funneling air into the engine compartment and fan housing.
Joel ·
humpty with the DVDA dizzy im playing round with them on my blown bug, got one on its way shortly
connecting to the manifold like u said will retard on boost like u want but the prob is that on closed throttle the manifold vacuum will give u full advance espcially rolling down hill, it will p probably backfire and fart like crazy due to no fuel and full advance
that sort of setup is more for blow thro where the vac adv is connected to a port on the carb above the throttle plate so its only seeing boost when the throttle is open and carbs under boost pressure
to make it work on draw thro u would need a 1way valve so its only seeing boost and not vacuum
theyre pretty hard to find
the only bugs they were ever fitted to were 71 Sbugs and the dealers were instructed to remove them
a few kombis had them but replacement cans are hard to comeby so most ppl remove them
GL with the project tho
trust me forced induction is addictive
humpty ·
Your are right Joel.... The advance control is an issue.... Thats one of the reasons that only the retard side of the diaphragm is used, and as you say the vacuum can be controlled with a one way valve.... They are available.... Low-Budget Racing sell them and I think Rancho Performance does too.... But I have found a couple of low pressure valves to try in my set-up... Some cars have one-way valves on the carbon canister and there are also valves used in windscreen washer set-ups.... I have a few others too... Will try them all out....
As for the POS60 progress.... I tacked the pipe together today and trial fitting it tonight (After picking up a GTB Subi front cut for Seagull) and the pipes are a good fit.... With a little tweaking it'll be perfect... I'll have a go at it tomorrow and sort the final bits.... This weekend the zorst should be done... Last few things to do are the fuel system, the carb brace and the final bolt up....
Once she's running, I'll see what I can do about the air cleaner issue....
1303Steve ·
Hi
I think fish tanks use one way valves. You could always hock up a solenoid to the dizzy base plate or even a vacuum dash pot like some Jap cars used.
Steve
humpty ·
Got a bit more done this weekend.... Until some rellies came over Sunday.... Ended up sitting on my verandah from 2pm and didn't slow down till 2am!
Got the engine cleaned up pretty good.... God I love high pressure cleaners!
And the cooling tin off my 1776 is going on.... Though I had best use what I have (I made all this up years ago) instead of buying aftermarket shite....
Got some more chores done yesterday... Went to the workshop at school and made some velocity stack retainers and some retainers for the turbo too.... I had to make some more of those cause I clocked the housing and moved the waste gate, and the result was a retainer down.... These little jobs take time....
And I did some welding to some custom steel saddle bags for my little bro's round the world bike trip... Imagine riding a postie bike to Spain... From here!.. 🙂
westi ·
how do you say nut job!
i hope he is packing some extra wieght around his arse.cause it's gona get sore.wish him all the best.That's CRAZY.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
I have a mate who has just ridden a mountain bike from Australia right through Asia to Mt Everest. He is currently on the decend from the peak and should be home in about 3 weeks time. they were riding through China in sub -5 temps!!! Absolute stupidity but full marks from completing it!!
humpty ·
Hey my little bro has done this thing before.... Infact most of my family travel like this.... I road a MC from Vancouver to LaPaz, from LaPaz to Panama, then on to Miami back in the early 90's.... My little bro road a 200cc Jap market road/trail bike from Osaka to Madrid, via China, Mongolia, Russia and the Nordics, a couple of years back.... My older bro, has done the tracks from here in Perth to Alice and numerous MC trips around Taiwan and Japan... I still hold the record in my family for the longest continuous hitch hike.... From Dover (UK) to Verona (northern Italy).... One ride.... And another brother hitched from one edge of the Sahara to the other.... It took him a month.... But its not as far as mine....😀
But anyway.... Back to the reason we are here....
Have decided to change tack on the turbo front.... The IHI is about to be upgraded.... I'm on the lookout for a T3..
The reasoning is simple.... I can't get a Carbon Seal and Thrust Collar for the IHI, both of which I need for a draw-through set-up.... They are not in production any longer...
This will put me back a little and will blow the budget, but it will make for a much improved set-up which will also be far more servicable.... The IHI is a great turbo for a blow-through rig if anyone is interested?
humpty ·
Ok guys... Its been a while since I have posted anything.... I have been busy with school these past weeks, but yesterday was the last day of contact for two weeks so the fun can begin...
Even though nothing huge has happened I have been doing some of the little jobs along with some work for some of my mates projects.... Brake bits for Reub, shock towers for a splitty and another set for an early bug.... And I have started on the fitting of a ragtop clip into a mates 60 Bug... Another one of my old cars.... This car will have a turbo stroker in it too.... LOOK OUT!!!!
So what I have done to the POS60 is this...
Made a bracket and fitted up the twin outlet rising rate fuel pressure reg.... A rising rate reg is not really needed for a draw-through set-up, but I had one sitting here collecting dust, so on it went....
And I then designed and made a nice little manifold to convert the reg from a twin outlet job to a single outlet number... And I thought I may as well make it so I can fit a pressure gauge (ebay purchase) while I was there....
And got my 'new' turbo from Alan (Dasdubber) on AVD.... Needs a total rebuild, so I bought a deluxe Japanese made rebuilt kit (with carbon seal)... from Ebay once again!
And got started on the changes needed to make the T25G fit (Cheers Al).... The intake side of the compressor is 60mm outside diameter.... The one on the IHI was 45mm!
Fitted the fuel manifold I made with all the hoses and gauge in place and redid the wiring in the back of the car.... All the wiring sits higher in the compartment now which will give me loads more room around the manifolds and plugs during service times....
And lastly.... Its a sad day for car lovers.... The Fremantle Motor Museum has closed its doors.... Its a long story that I wont go into, but lets just say that both the WA Government and the Fremantle Port Authority don't like Peter Briggs (the owner of the cars and the Museum) and have foreclosed on his lease...
Most of the cars are to go into storage, but some have been sent to Peter's other museum in York.... If ever you guys are in WA, you really should check out his collection!!!
Finally got my rebuild kit for the turbo the other day.... Started on the tear down of the turbo and promptly broke the first thing I touched.... The turbine shaft is no more.... 🙁
So I need to find another turbo to rebuild....
I've been looking at replacement turbos all over the counrty... You'd think it would be easy to find another turbo off an SR20 (Silvia), but no.... Apparently just about every shop that fits bigger turbos to the these suckas, just chuck out the OG ones.... Can you believe it?... So I have had little luck in intercepting one.... Just missed out on a bucket load of them by a few days.... A local ricer shop just through out 200 hundred of them!!!
Yikes!!!
Anyway.... Just got off the fone from Reuben up in Darwin.... That guy is fuckin legend by the way... He's found me a good rebuildable turbo up there and its only gonna set me back 50bux!
I should have it here in the next couple of weeks (Mail from Darwin is very slow.... Apparently they only have camel trains up there!), but at least I can now rest easy and get back into the project....
As soon as I rebuild an engine for a mates splitty.... Some of you might now the guy... His name is Brian White.... He's an awesome automotive photographer.... Check out his work on circlework.com.au
Seeya...
humpty ·
Been a little busy of late, what with marking student projects ,and building engines for mates, and building sheds for other mates.... But I have made some progress on the parts hunt for the POS....
Something of interest that I have found is confusing me a little.... A little product has come to my attention that is made by MSD and I would like to know if it will work in my application...
The way I see it, this little number is a stand alone ignition control only and requires an electronic ignition for it to work... So my questions are.... Is anyone familiar with it? Does it still use plug-in rev control modules? And will it work with my Old school 'Alison' (Crane) electronic ignition box?
humpty ·
Ok turbo guru's.... Got a good one for you....
Can a BB GT2560R Garrett turbo (GT28) be used in a draw-through app?
I have a lead on one that I think will be better suited to the 1776 engine I'm planning to use...
On that front, the 1835 needs way too much work to make it suitable to turbocharge... So my old 1776 got the nod as it is much better option in so many ways.... It made good reliable power in NA form and it was built originally to turbo in anycase.... Nice low comp, all the good stuff inside, Shimo built heads and loads of old school BERG bits.... Its just gotta be!
So what do you all think?.... Can the GT2560R Garrett be used on a draw-through?
humpty ·
Ok.... Finally school is over this week, other peoples projects are done (more or less!) and I can now get to my projects....
But first I must purchase a few things....
As I said earlier I'm going to use the 1776 out of the Green Meanie... Some of you Sydneysiders might remember this car from my days hanging out at Hellbug... This engine was built with a very low comp ratio for an NA car, it has 60cc chambers of the Semi-hemi variety, 40x35.5 Manley's in the 044's with a little Shimo love thrown at them... Amazingly, these heads are still in very good nick, so I thought I'd send them over to Harris Engines for a freshen up and some mods... I'm thinking of doing the usual rebuild on them, but fitting better exhaust valves (open to brand suggestions..?) and shave the cylinder seating surface for some .040" copper head gaskets. Anybody out there have a line on a good quality brand for those?
As for the ignition saga... A few peeps have offered some suggestions (TSV, the MuffinMan and DUB74L... Cheers guys), but I think I might wuss out and get a little technology to handle that.... I have an old school (term used lightly!) ALLISON Electronic Ignition that I have used for the past 25 odd years and I thought I'd use an MSD 5462 to make it boost sensitive.... I know, what your saying... "But Humpty said he was doing this old school", but I remember my own words to B4 when he was messing with the twin point dissy and NOS in his Oval back in the early 90's.... I said to him then, that I thought he was mad to "mess with this old shit", when you can buy new tech will do the job perfectly... And I was right.... He blew the aircleaner off of one of his 48DRLA's and cooked his mohair headliner at the Nationals in 94... Damn that was funny! 😂
Stay tuned....
23split ·
Si.
Give Rodney a call. He's back in Oz with his 3.3 and will no doubt have lots of goodies with him or sitting in a sea container waiting for customs to clear.
Enjoy the pea & ham soup.
paul
Quoll ·
Hey humpty as far as I know the only thing you would need on the GT2560R is some form of carbon seal to stop the engine blowing lots of smoke when used in draw through configuration, the only downer is that it means a total rebuild of the turbo as far as I know
Oh and if you want some new valves I have a NOS set of manley s/s valves in thier packageing that i am not using :P
humpty ·
Hey Quoll.... You can't fit a carbon seal into a GT turbo... But I hear that Marty Staggs in the US runs BB type turbos on all his draw-through kits.... From what I can gather... I could get a little oil puff on vacuum, but the turbo will be much more streetable than an equivalent PB turbo... And thanks for the offer on the valves... What sizes are they and what sort of coin you looking for? PM me....
humpty ·
Sorry mate... I have a couple of T25's here, but both need rebuilding... Which in itself is not a huge issue, but really they aren't worth much... I'm sure you'll be able to find them in Adelaide for a bargain.... I picked up a GT28R for $500 recently which is near perfect condition... For your project, I'd be seriously looking at something like that.... Its current (ish) tech, ball-bearing and very common.... They come from SR20's and twin turbo Skylines.... Given the import market in SA is pretty big, I'd be heading down that way and have a gander....
dangerous ·
humpty wrote:but I remember my own words to B4 when he was messing with the twin point dissy and NOS in his Oval back in the early 90's.... I said to him then, that I thought he was mad to "mess with this old shit", when you can buy new tech will do the job perfectly... And I was right.... He blew the aircleaner off of one of his 48DRLA's and cooked his mohair headliner at the Nationals in 94... Damn that was funny! 😂
That is a little harsh Simon, laughing at someones car being on fire.
Dave's dual point system was not what it seemed
and quite ingenious at the time.
It was used to switch over to a 4 degree retard automatically
on the second set of points when the NOS was activated.
It had nothing to do with the nitrous oxide back fire.
That backfire was a result of the engine bogging down in 3rd gear
after wheel spinning in first and second gear.
The nitrous had nowhere to go but back out the top of the carb.
Yes, there are plenty of more modern options out there NOW,
but it never hurts to be creative and try something new rather than copying what everyone else does.
westi ·
damn straight.
2443TT ·
I think you will find that all the nissan SR20 and rb26 turbo's are generally not ever rebuilt. The ceramic wheels always break off the shafts above 14 psi boost. The exception is those that want a stealth installation. Larger wheels are installed in standard turbine housings which makes for a stock appearance but they pack anywhere from 300-400hp per turbo in this high-flowed form.
Good choice with the GT2860R/GT25R/GT28R. I had the same turbo on my 1641 and made a peak of of around 200rwhp before the fuels ystem was maxed out.
About the lack of seal on the compressor housing, i think you will get away with it provided you run the right oil restrictor to the oil feed. It must be limited to 0.035" diameter at the entrance to the bearing core.
humpty ·
Cheers for the tip Ian.... I appreciate it....
And Dave.... Don't worry about me ragin' on B4... As you know he's a very good mate of mine and he knows that I have total respect for his automotive explorations... The man is wizard in my book!
But I do like to tease him about that moment in time.... That trip that B4, Aaron and myself did is still one of my fondest memories ... We talk about it often...
HGFS ·
humpty wrote:I picked up a GT28R for $500 recently which is near perfect condition... For your project, I'd be seriously looking at something like that.... Its current (ish) tech, ball-bearing and very common.... They come from SR20's and twin turbo Skylines.... Given the import market in SA is pretty big, I'd be heading down that way and have a gander....
Hey it sounds like the guy I know has come through with the same turbo as yours, he told me over the phone today there's a T28 ball bearing coming up that he's put my name on for apparently a good price. Don't know any more yet.
Any progress on yours lately???
humpty ·
Good score.... Things have moved along a little.... The fuel system will be complete on Saturday and I can get back into the rear of the car.... I have designed and made a 2" tranny lift for the car, so the next job is to strip out the backend and make the mods to make it fit. Once that is done I can finally get around to rebuilding my old 1776 donk and get the turbo/carb gear mounted... Still loads to do....
On another not.... Especially for Ian.... My GT28 has steel wheels.... No ceramic in there.... So all good....
HGFS ·
humpty wrote:.... I have designed and made a 2" tranny lift for the car, so the next job is to strip out the backend and make the mods to make it fit.
Sounds cool, I was just about to get a 1" lift from the US, do you want to replicate your 2" before you put it in? What mods need to be made for it to fit, is it mainly the shift rod etc?
Otherwise do you have any pics of it?
humpty ·
HGFS wrote:
humpty wrote:.... I have designed and made a 2" tranny lift for the car, so the next job is to strip out the backend and make the mods to make it fit.
Sounds cool, I was just about to get a 1" lift from the US, do you want to replicate your 2" before you put it in? What mods need to be made for it to fit, is it mainly the shift rod etc?
Otherwise do you have any pics of it?
Once I fit it up and make sure it all lines up, I can make you one.... No problem... I have done all the drawings (dwg files), so it'll be pretty easy to manufacture.... As for making fit.... You need to lift the floor area up (and the front bay seal), and the inner engine bay trays (along with a few other mods) to clear the engine/transaxle and you need a split bus nose cone and hockey stick for it to line up.... And I should mention that it is a solid mount number... No rubber in this rig!
HGFS ·
Sounds good, not looking for a rubber mount deal anyway as it will be a drag car. Have got a split bus nose cone too. I'll send you a PM soon. Cheers.
humpty ·
Well.... The wheels are turning on this project once more.... Some time back the project stalled with other project commitments (other peeps cars) and stuff, but I did get the 1776 rebuilt and in the car....Then I went out and thrashed the hell out of it for a bit...
As you do....
Then the POS came back into the shed 2 months back for the GT28RS upgrade..... Then it fell on its head and life got in the way....
As it does....
Fast forward to this week and I have been into the shed, dusted off the cobwebs and got back into the exhaust mods. It's looking pretty good, the turbo flange is tacked, the turbo is mounted and the dump pipe is being fabricated tomorrow... I have bought a 3" V-Clamp connector so the race pipe to street muffler change-over can be completed without the need to upset the turbo or O2 sensor in anyway. Once that is done, the carb support is next, then the linkage and then a plethora of other minor things need to happen....
The next question I have for you lot is this....
Anybody out there have any experience with this sucker?
The project is in need of a cooler upgrade to help the OEM "Doghouse" number do its job....
Loads to do.... As you would expect.... But all good.
Stanley ·
I have seen these types of coolers in the hydraulic industry.
Looks flash but depends on what's inside. Hopefully it's not straight in and out. If that's the case can't see it doing to much cooling.
Good to see you back on the project
cheers
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Stanley by looking at the pics it does kinda look straight in and straight out.....
Boostn ·
I'd stick with the messa / fan combo.
humpty ·
It has internal fins also, but I have no clue to its efficiency...
It's theory is solid (heat sink), but its practice is unknown...
Spose it's better to be safe than sorry....
Off to ebay I go... Hi ho, hi ho.....
Stanley ·
Also important to remember is the pressure required to force oil through the cooler.
Coolers are also a great place for debris to end up. The easier it is to flush the better it is.
Seen many hydraulic systems fail multiple times when people couldn't clean or wouldn't replace coolers.
humpty ·
Hey gang... Got another question for the guru's out there!.... That of O2 Sensor placement.
For those of you that don't remember (or know), the POS is being built to compete in the local Nostalgia Drag series (Streetcar) and for this reason I have gone with an ol'school configuration...
Draw-through.... (ie: NoTech! 😂 )
The turbo has been changed for a GT28R but the system is mostly the same. I have now also fitted a V-Band Clamp about 100mm down stream from the dump, just before the bend in the exhaust...
Anyway... To make the old girl a little easier to tune I have been permitted to fit an O2 sensor, but my issue is the placement of it... I was thinking about where the arrow is, just before the V-Band Clamp so as not to upset the whole lot when I do the change at the track from the street zorst to the race dump...
What you all think? Could there be an issue with the O2 being so close to the turbo?
Boostn ·
no
Stanley ·
From research i've done on this stuff before that is pretty much the location of choice.
now hurry up and get it done...😁
humpty ·
Boostn wrote:no
Cheers...
Stanley wrote:...now hurry up and get it done...😁
I have about an hour a week to work on the old girl, so you can understand my frustration...
And my lack of motivation at times...
Boostn ·
sleep is over rated
weld the bung in
humpty ·
Hole is drilled... Off to the TIG tomorrow...
humpty ·
Finally got in touch with my TIG dude... All done to the dump manifold... Mocked up the dump down tube today and it looks pretty good... Only MIG tacked at the moment... Will give a final touch-up once the engine is back in the car....
Pics to follow as soon as my shaped account sorts itself out.... 🙁
Trimmed the 'T' manifold today and that slots in nice, though I need to clearance the cross-pipe under the alt mount... Will tack the manifold to turbo flange tomorrow.... Start on making the carb support in the next day or so.... Then its time to match port the VW end-castings to the head ports....
And now I have a question...
I need to find a suitable boost signal for the built-in wastegate... Turbo does not have one on the compressor side....
Should I put a fitting in the manifold just after the turbo outlet or can I use the boss that is in the LHS end-casting? The MSD will need a signal from here too!!
Boostn ·
I run a balance hose from side to side and tee off in the middle. This way it stops cylinder pulsing in the signal.
Stanley ·
Mine had a boss on the compressor side that had not been drilled. I drilled and tapped it 1/8 npt an run a signal to WG from there. Yours may or may not have one. Otherwise Nicks fix sounds good.
humpty ·
Cheers guys....
humpty ·
Finally got my camera from school...
So I took some pics today of the engine progress to date... this should give you some idea...
It's slow work this Stainless Steel fabrication... Of course it doesn't help that I don't get much time on it... Will be doing some more on Wednesday... Fuel system and trans mounts are planned for then... Then the engine goes back in and final exhaust/muffler arrangement can be fabbed up...
humpty ·
Bit more done today... Made some shock plates and T1- TIII beam adapter mounts for a mate and got a little more done on the POS....
Here's a little comparo.
As it was.....
As it is.....
When you compare it to how the old IHI set-up was, I think this is a much better fit...
As the carb is now solid mounted to the turbo I need to figure out if I need to make a carb support...
What you all reckon?
Stanley ·
Good stuff...👍
pete wood ·
What you all reckon?
I reckon I'm jealous and your back tyres should be feeling scared. 😁
humpty ·
Ok.... After finally getting back to the POS for some little "one'on'one", I have managed to get some more stuff completed....
First up.... Fuel system....
Holley Blue and Chrysler 300 fuel filter...
Dual 10mm ID fuel line hand formed from the front...
To the rear...
Peaking out over the torsion housing...
Then soft line to still more hand formed hardline...
Across the car under the parcel shelf...
Through the rear firewall panel to the regulator...
Just remember... This is version 4 of my fuel system.... I seem to do that.... Start off conservative, build on it, do more research, make some changes, ask more questions, make yet more changes, then finally complete it....
For now.... 😁
Then the fancy new aluminum solid trans mounts (from A 1200 is slow) went in along with a set of Craig Torrens' "K" bar kits.... Kindly sold to me for an awesome price.... I would like to say that both of these products are top shelf and would recommended them to anybody...
Cheers fellas!...
And then the engine went in for little checking of clearances...
Tight! 🤪
But she's in!...
Apron on....
And I'm back to were I was 12months ago....
But hopefully it's a little more solid now....
reub ·
Cool as Simon. Really good to see some progress.
Trust all is well down there! Reub
humpty ·
The holidays are here!.....
So what have I been upto I hear you ask?
Heaps....
First up, I have decided to not run a dizzy on this engine, as I feel that method of spark is erratic and hard to control... You need a really good, solid and consistent spark on forced induction engines, so I have gone down the EDIS/Megajolt road and have pulled the 09 out for good... So I need to plug that bloody great hole up left behind by the dizzy... So I made this on Monday...
Fits a treat and uses the OEM clamp and 'O' ring too... Might convert it to a cranckcase breather/drain later...
The I had to finish off the intake manifold and endcastings... So I pulled out the airtools did a spot of die grinding and match porting... But I had to make a template of the heads first...
Bit of a difference hey?
Then the fun begins...
Then I had a go at the other end.... Had to match up with the new "T" centre manifold I made earlier this year....
The it was time for the exhaust... Mock-up to make sure it all fits....
I taped it all together, then took it to school and tacked it... Brought it back home and fitted it.... And it's perfect.... So I then took it over to my mate Dave to get it TIG'ed up... And here she it is.... Finished!
And on the car...
Pretty huh?
Today I made the carb support (and cool little press jig to radius the ends of the tube I used), the accelerator return spring bracket and cable support, fitted a bigger breather in the tank, fitted the fuel return to the tank, fitted the tank, reset the rear spring plates and started on fitting the rear brakes, started on making the springplate retainers/limiters, and made a tailpipe support too....
Gotta do some more work on the ignition tomorrow... Have to make a whole new harness for it, fabricate a mounting block for the Megajolt and EDIS computers and relays... And loads of other little things...
Getting closer!
dangerous ·
Spiff!
Cant wait to see what the details are to trigger your new ignition Simon.
Stanley ·
Nice work Humpty...exhaust looks good
I'm with dave....more info on the ignition setup please.
colonel mustard ·
I love the "muffler".... what sort of Motorbike did you 'borrow' that one off... 🙂 Love it man. its gonna be sick!
humpty ·
The latest...
Made this to support the DCOE.... It supports the carb over the top and bolts to the back of the turbine housing...
Then I started on adapting the EDIS Ignition timing wheel to the Stoker Engineering Pulley that Dave made for me years ago...
This to this...
Get a little bit of wood...
Screw this on...
Whack it on a wood turning lathe and hey presto!.... An adapter that centrally locates the timing wheel to the pulley...
Line it up, clamp it down, drill it out, then tap in some nice little M3 threads...
Tah Dah!
And yes I know the BERG timing ring label is 180º out!!!
hellbugged ·
humpty wrote:And yes I know the BERG timing ring label is 180º out!!!
very nice happenings humpty.......
you want a new ring sent over?
humpty ·
hellbugged wrote:
humpty wrote:And yes I know the BERG timing ring label is 180º out!!!
very nice happenings humpty.......
you want a new ring sent over?
Yeah I reckon thats a good idea.... I've been putting up with this one since the old Hellbug days... Good times....
humpty ·
Next question....
I'm looking at external oil cooler options again...
This thing I've been messing with has been built to compete in the local nostalgia drag series... This baby is old school all the way, but the rules allow for a few 'common sense' upgrades as the cars must be street registered to compete... So I have a few contemporary upgrades on board...
To help the little bundle of joy keep it's head in the hot West Oz sun, I'd like to plumb in another cooler after the OBerg.... I have a doghouse cooler in place, but I feel this will not be up to the task... What are the guru's of AVD doing about this situation?
Cooler (brand, size etc), inline thermostat (MOCAL, electronic), OG thermostat upgrade, by-pass, placement, fan... Any other ideas?
humpty ·
Here's a shot of the ignition bits I am cobbling together.... I'm using a US/UK/Euro market FoMoCo EDIS iginition driven by a Megajolt computer...
The EDIS stuff I bought from Boost Engineering (http://www.boostengineering.net/) in the US and the Megajolt is a kit I bought from Autosport Labs (http://www.autosportlabs.net)... The kit was pretty straight forward to assemble... 2-3 hours with a soldering iron is all it took... The of course was getting the rest of the stuff sorted.... I had to make a harness for it all and a suitable mounting dock to...
So out came the old Subaru harness' I have kept...
4 hours later I had found the right colour and gauge wires to make it all happen.
Then its back to a spot of fabrication.... Here's the bracket I told you about... Need a little tidying up, but it works well enough, and it has a small amount of adjustment in it....
Then I had to get on to the plug leads.... The leads I got from the US would have worked, but it meant I would have to run the coil pack in the centre of the firewall... It's an ugly bit of kit, so I decided I needed to hide as best I could... To do this I needed to source some new plug leads.... After trying everywhere for the past 2 weeks I resigned myself to either import some, or make some.... Being the cheap arse that I am, I made them...
Found some very nice aftermarket leads off a late model V8 Falcon and promptly cut the coil end off and fitted the EDIS ends... It took a bit of fiddling to salvage the covers and copper fittings without damaging them, with a little silicone spray, some fine flat blade screwdrivers and needle nose plier, the job got done...
humpty ·
Well gang.... I have some good news and I have some bad news.....
The good news is I got it running on Monday night for the first time.... After a few problems with the ignition, I figured out the issue and she fired right up.... A little smokey but good.... Today I had some time this arvo to have a fiddle with the ignition map and get it running a little smoother.... It certainly has a big strong note!!!
Now for the bad news... The smoke.... It's really, really bad.... And it's oil.... 😢
After a bit of head scratching I had a look around the engine and found some oil leaking from the turbo cassette housing and the smoke was really bad coming out of the exhaust... So I figured there was something up with the oil feed... Oil pressure is fine, there is no crankcase vapour to speak of and the breather was breathing pretty well, just as it always had done...
So I pulled the dump pipe from the turbo and found loads of very black oil in the housing and the exhaust itself.... This is bad.... Very bad.... I thought these ballbearing turbos are oil misers and only need a small amount of oil to keep them happy, but this one is flooding it out... I thought there might be a restriction with the drain, but that checks out ok as I ran the engine with the drain emptying into a clear container.... So I thought I had not fitted the restrictor (1mm I think) in the feed line, but that's there too.... Then I noticed that the oil in the cassette was looking to be a little flooded to me... It is pooling in the top of the turbo where the fitting screws in... This doesn't look right?... Is the fitting supposed to make a tight seal against the 'peak' of the internal gallery?
Anyone got any ideas?
🙁
humpty ·
I spoke to Turbotech on Wednesday about the problems.... After they stopped giggling about the cars power potential, they were a very big help with the problem... Apparently they have seen this issue before and they suggest I fit another restrictor at the crankcase feed... This time a .5mm hole.... The current oil feed set-up has a female/female adapter with 1/4NPT to AN-4 threads, at the crankcase end of the oil line.... I step bored the ID at the NPT end, then machined up a restrictor bung in brass, and then loctite that into the fitting....
Got it back together last night, did a little fettling today. A couple of the local Dubbers came over to help out, we pushed the POS out of the shed. I made a few changes to the timing map, and turned the key....
She fired up straight away and immediately began to blow a little smoke... Residue from the previous attempt.... After getting the engine up to temp, fiddling with the carb linkage and keeping an eye on everything, the smoke started to wane... Carb is still not right, but it was looking better all the time.... Still some exhaust leaks.... Numbers 2 and 3 have some bad leaks.... But it was drivable.
So that's what I did.... I took it for a blat up the street and around the round-about.... Felt good, noisy as hell inside, but no trim and solid mounts will do that!... Don't have a clue what rpm I was pulling or if it's making boost yet, but it does feel strong.... Will put some fresh fuel in it next time and do a little data logging to see whats going on.
So all looking good....
dangerous ·
Sounds good Simon.
Gee that is a really small restricion in your supply line....it makes sense though, that the ball bearing deals need very little oil flow.
Sounds like you are heading in the right direction.
Look forward to hearing what you do with the jetting.
humpty ·
Cheers Dave... After having seen so many fast turbo cars come out of the Hellbug Garage all those years ago, it feels good to have finally built something like this.... Not that my other performance projects haven't been fun, it's just that I have always wanted to build a car like this.... The full tilt turbo efi stroker is still in the works, but this little draw-through 'mouse motor' has been a massive learning curve...
As you say, the carb will be a challenge.... This carb was on one of Nick's previous cars I believe... Not sure to what level it has been developed, but hopefully he can shed some light on it... If it proves to be a hassle, it's not too much of stretch for me to fit efi...
Now comes the challenge to make it work....
seagull ·
Bring it on Humty
You up to running the liberty down the 1/4 yet ?
I hear the street was full of smoke down your way
humpty ·
Your right, there was plenty of smoke, but not in a good way.... Will be chucking it down the quarter in the new year... Got a lot of tuning and learning to do before then.... But when I do, you be sure to bring your Subi buddies! 😁
matberry ·
Give em heaps Humpty.
Good to turn the wheels hey....
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Nice work man. It is always a good feeling to finally get the thing started and it makes all the right noises even with a few small glitches. Ask Troy he can sympathise with you on the smoke issue and small drama's!! He had plenty of them but the end result is well worth the effort...
humpty ·
Cheers for the comments guys.... Tomorrow the engine comes out and I'll tear into pulling the intake and exhaust off.... Will draw file the exhaust flanges in an attempt to fix the exhaust leaks... I have scored some CB graphite exhaust gaskets to use in place of the WBX ones I have at the moment... Also gonna have a go at the pinhole leak in the top of the 'T' manifold.... And another thing.... That bloody front seal is leaking again!!!!... Been having a real bad run with those of late... I've been using Elring FW seals for years, but for some reason I can't get a nice seal up front????
Gonna drop the rear of the car too.... Just for the show you understand... Will source some more suitable rear rubber in the new year... Anyone have some 26" slicks they want to part with? 😁
reub ·
...and you call me a nut bag...
humpty ·
reub-revhead wrote:...and you call me a nut bag...
And I still have drum brakes!!!! 🤪
colonel mustard ·
might be wise to upgrade those..'
Stanley ·
Top stuff Simon....and welcome to forced induction.
look forward to some pics or even video.....
Boostn ·
Hey Simon,
sounds good.
did you get the pm?
give me an e-mail
dangerous ·
Happy Birthday Simon!
humpty ·
Haha.... Cheers Dave.... For a present for myself I pulled the engine from the car tonight!... Gonna fix those leaky exhaust flanges tomorrow and seal the pinhole in the intake 'T'....
Fun times....
PM sent Nick.
humpty ·
Got a bit more done these past two days.... Chasing the leaks in the intake and exhaust.... Pulled the engine once more... Tore it all off.... Began draw-filing all the flanges yesterday.... RPITA!!! :shock:
Took the 'T' intake and complete exhaust to work today.... Re brazed the manifold and fabricated and brazed a new/larger MAP port on the intake, and linished all the flanges flat.... Gotta love industrial belt sanding tables!.... A whole lot ezr than draw-filing!!... Made two new cable clamps to connect the two accelerator cables... The last one was pain to fit...
Got home at 4.30.... Fitted one of the versions on.... Works a treat... Fitted up the complete the intake and exhaust systems and used all new hand-made gaskets and those fancy exhaust gaskets I got from one of the 'Collective'.... Re-fitted the engine and hooked it all up....
Turned the key at 7pm tonight.... Sounds much better.... Lovely note!
Noticed a few problems still....
The oil is still leaking a little from the turbo.... Fitted another restrictor at the top banjo fitting.... That's three restrictors now... The factory one (1.5mm) in the turbo cartridge, one in the top banjo (.8mm), and one (.5mm) at the main oil gallery..... Are turbo's assembled with any sealant on the mating surfaces?.... Carb is running way off.... Doesn't seem to be running on idle circuits... And it's seems to be flooding fuel (cheers for the tips Nick).... I think the floats are set incorrectly... And the accelerator pedal/linkage is cactus... Gonna rip the pedal off and make a roller pedal up using a skateboard wheel and tweak the cable support on the carb base... The cable seems to be binding a little....
Getting there....
humpty ·
Its all but done....
😀
reub ·
Nice work dude.
humpty ·
Cheers Reub.... I'm pretty stoked with it.... I can't believe how well it all fits.... Only one thing didn't work out as planned... The waste gate actuator just touches the closed engine lid!!!!!.... So I'll make up a lower engine cover prop to make it work.... Better for cooling anyway....
colonel mustard ·
nice video. good to see it running 🙂 good work mate!
Boostn ·
Awesome going dude!?!?!?!?!?!
Memories, I feel young again.
Video of a spin inside please. 15+ psi please
humpty ·
Big thanks to you Nick.... I really appreciate the help you have given me.... Not to mention the inspiration... I first realised I wanted to build a car like this when I saw those pics of your old blue bug picking up its wheels in Fast Fours (I think it was Fast Fours?)... Then I got to hang out at Hellbug back in the day.... There was no hope after that!!!
Some fun video will surely make its way to youtube once I get a handle on the old girl... Stay tuned!
reub ·
Will have to come and have a looksie - at this stage I'm in Perth the week of the 18th Jan...
humpty ·
reub wrote:Will have to come and have a looksie - at this stage I'm in Perth the week of the 18th Jan...
More than welcome Reub.... I'll be here.... Prolly prep'ing for Portland!!!!
Maybe...
humpty ·
Today was the big day.... I took the car to school (Im a high school teacher for those that didn't know) and the machine went pretty well.... It really does run better when it warms up.... Has a stutter when its cold.... Sorta like a rev limiter but at around 2200prm... No clue what rpm yet as my laptop has a crook battery and I haven't got a tacho yet.... But once the POS warms up the stutter is all but gone.... It is running a little on the rich side, so have ordered a range of main jets... I think the stutter could also be because of the slightly rich mixture....
Also.... It starts fine, and idles well.... The idle problems I had before were mostly down to a very tight accelerator cable/linkage.... And possibly because it was all little dry and tight from lack of use.... All good there now....
Now for the ignition.... Still not sure how it is going.... As I haven't been able to do any data logging, I really have no clue if the map is even close.... I based mine on a map I found on the Autosportlabs Forum, but I reduced the initial a little... I know this is all a bit dangerous since I haven't done any logging, but what sort of things should I be aiming for when it comes to load v rpm?... Currently the 500rpm stage is set at 8, 600 at 9, 800 from 11 to 15, 1000 9 to 18 etc.... That last one looks a little odd to me... 9 seems wrong given that at 800rpm, the advance is at 11 for load point 10 and 20... I'm prolly not making myself clear here, but I hope you guys can steer me right....
In closing.... It's got some poke! 😀
Turbo54 ·
What size is the exhaust? Is it loud when you open it up?
Cool trigger. I have seen a similar thing off a new FG Falcon mated to VW stuff.
Very Cool.
T54
fish26 ·
awesome work Simon, glad to see all the gremlins sorted, I've decided to use a locked out Magneto with some semi hemi heads, will do some work over the break.
where's the in car video mate?
humpty ·
Hahhaa.... Cheers guys.....
The exhaust primaries are 1 5/8 merging into a much modified 2.5" collector.... The dump and muffler is 3" all the way.... Its pretty tame and mello at idle and cruising, but it does have a nice note when the revs come up... So I've been told.... I don't know for sure what it actually sounds like, cause I'm driving, there's no interior and the drivetrain is solid mounted!!!! As for the ignition... It is in fact a Ford item (US/Europe 80-90's Escorts).... Some Oz spec Fords used a similar system.... As far as I can tell, only the timing wheel and the VR sensor are the same.... All the other parts need to be source OS.... You can get the complete EDIS4 system used on ebay for less than 100bux!!!!.... The brain that drives it is Megajolt unit that I bought in kit form.... Its an awesome little project by itself!.... And the spark is amazing! 🤪
And don't worry Fish.... As soon as I get a handle on the tune, I will be posting another flick on the tube.
Turbo54 ·
So are you still running a dizzy just for advance? I want to run no dizzy and use this for the timing.
T54
humpty ·
Nope.... No dizzy..... The EDIS and Megajolt do everything....
humpty ·
Wow its been a longtime since an update.... Loads has happened in these past weeks.... Got the POS going in late November.... Been having a blast ever since.... Still got loads to do.... Working the tune, making changes and all that stuff..... But here's a little vid of the start up....
Got it all together just in time for the DoVW-WA.... Had over 20 VW's turn up at my place for the drive out to the show.... Here's a video I made of the day....
As I said earlier.... The tune is way off, but it getting ever closer.... The ignition is awesome... The car starts so easily it amazing!!!!... Cruising is a little rough, which I think is down to a few things... too lean on the pump jets and way rich on the mains, and I'm pretty sure my ignition map is not right.... To help with it all I have just bought one of these....
I have also purchased a some other jets to give me something to play with....
I'm sure that once I have the LC-1 hooked up to my Megajolt datalogging software, I'll be able to see what's really going on.
Stanley ·
Top stuff Simon. Sounds very mellow. When you started it in the vid I didn't think it fired until I noticed the tach.
How's the throttle reponse?
humpty ·
Thanks Stanley.... Glad you like it.... Big props must go to you for the inspiration to get this going... The idea was always there to built it 'one day', but I needed someone to kick me in arse....
In that vid I was still having issues with the carb linkage, and the ignition map, so it was a little lazy.... It feels quite strong off the line, similar to how it was BB (before boost)..... I have been working the map these past days and it's really starting to come on now.... I feel there is room for more advance in the lower/cruising area of the map which should help with the low end response.... In the top (over 100kpa) the boost really starts up... Can't wait to get the fuelling under control.... I should feel a lot more boost down low and the mid range will pick up also when that lot comes together....
The POS feels pretty strong as it is, But I'm looking forward to getting it on a dyno so I can work the maps and fuel further....
Then its time for the track!
humpty ·
Been working on the map these past days....
And took the ol'girl out for a spin.... Even got some dataloging done (now that I have a new battery in the laptop) for the first time.... I must say I'm mighty impressed with it all....
Anybody have a clue how to calculate kpa to psi?.... I'm sure I read it somewhere, but I can't find it now.... My datalog from last night saw 148kpa.... That's 21psi!!!!..... That can't be right?❓
Fitted the new 'e' tubes this morning and dropped the main jets down to 170's.... Made a huge difference!.... Much cleaner in progression, no more 'fuel' smell in the cabin and no more smokin' (from the tailpipe) when the hammer drops.... Seems to be running cooler too.... It's 30º out right now and I just got back from a long drive.... Cool as.... The manifold is running too cool actually.... Condensation on the carb and intake!!!!..... It's pulls very strongly and seems quite happy.... The 'hunting' I was experiencing at 2800-3000rpm is all but gone and it pulls very clean from there.... But there still is some problems.... The idle is a little erratic... And the fuel pressure fluctuates from 1.5psi to 4psi????.... Fuel pump rpm fluctuates also????.... Gonna fit the LC-1 in the next few days, then I'll figure out how to hook the MJLJ up to the LC-1, then I can get a good look at my jetting and mixtures....
Man what a learning curve!!!
type3lover ·
Looking nice dude!
Don't forget to subtract your atmospheric pressure from that figure. That will be your boost :-)
Nelson ·
humpty wrote:Been working on the map these past days....
Anybody have a clue how to calculate kpa to psi?....
My datalog from last night saw 148kpa.... That's 21psi!!!!..... That can't be right?❓
Pretty close, divide by 6.895
66brm ·
So when are you making the trip down to kwinana??
humpty ·
As soon as the dyno session is done... Working on fitting the AFR meter and boost gauge right now... Jets selections are on the way.... Once all is in my hand and school is under control, I'll be booking the POS in for a little dyno lovin'!
VWFREAK ·
Nice work dude!
humpty ·
Ok.... So yesterday was the first real 'daily driver' test for the POS't in its new guise.... I drove the ol'girl around all day.... Breaky in Freo, odd jobs around O'Connor and Willeton, toolin' around the hood, freeway driving to the city, then on to a mates sign shop in Ozzy Park..... After a couple of beers and some light conversation, I headed out to Alfred's (a late night burger spot) via the suburbs, to hang out with some local dubbers...
I can say the car went pretty well all day.... Rev'ed a little high on the freeway stuff, but that was to be expected given the ratio's and final drive I've got in the there.... The ride is ok.... But needs more work up front (tight nolathane bushes).... The backend sits well on the road untill you really get into it.... But after Alfred's things started to get a little rough....
It all started with the turn of the key.... The car didn't start first go.... Like it normally does... Hmmm..... I get it going on the third try and the engine settles down pretty well.... I gently cruise out.... Heading down the road, the car stumbles and misses in second at the lights as I roll through.... Hmmmm..... Engine seems a little noisy (er!) too...... Hmmmm..... So I pull into the servo up the road..... Check the fuel.... Plenty there.... Check the fuel pressure.... A little high (the reg is shit!, must change it).... But ok..... Then I checked the carb and manifold..... They are freezing cold!
No wonder it was running rough.... The fuel vapor is causing condensation to build up, which in turn is killing the suspension of the gasses and making the fuel vapors slow down.... Engine runs lean, then super rich, then lean, the rich.... The fuel is losing velocity, it stalls inside the intake, which creates puddles of fuel, which then causes the rich/lean phenomenon.... There's nothing for it.... I have to drive home the way it is and hope for the best....
The drive down the Tonkin Hwy is a little sketchy to say the least.... The car is making good power, but as I said before, the engine revs very high at highway speeds.... With solid mounts its not a lot of fun in the car I can tell you.... And on the Tonkin its even worse.... That road is so damn rough!!!!!.... I need a taller R&P and taller rear tyres anyway, but the lesson learned here is the that car is perfect for what it was built for....
Drag Racing!
Fitting the AFR and boost gauges right now.... Making up a gauge cluster that will fit infront of the steering wheel on either side of the speedo... Made a nice little LED shiftlight (no tacho) to mount there also.... Can't wait for the jets to get here.... I reckon the pumpjets need to go up one size, so I can wind the correctors back down a little.... I think my airs need to go up a little too on what I have now.... Jetting is getting better all the time, but the Innovate LC-1 will tell me the truth...
Stay tuned!
SuperOwen ·
Seeing as you have half the required setup already for an injection conversion your not thinking of going down that route with a megasquirt? Gut the sidedraft and use as a throttle body. Keep the old school look with no puddling.
pete wood ·
I know what you mean about solid mounts and noise. I carry ear plugs in my car now and the kids wear muffs when the top is on. Seems like overkill, but it has to be over 100db on the freeway at least.
What are you going to do to stop the icing up?
humpty ·
SuperOwen wrote:Seeing as you have half the required setup already for an injection conversion your not thinking of going down that route with a megasquirt? Gut the sidedraft and use as a throttle body. Keep the old school look with no puddling.
The thought has crossed my mind.... I have a MSIIv3 all assembled and ready to go in my Ragtop.... Have been thinking I could just chuck it on the POS instead.... Though I'd prolly go blow-through and intercooled if I did....
pete wood wrote:What are you going to do to stop the icing up?
Thinking about welding an oil gallery to the DCOE manifold and routing hardline from the oil pump up to it... Just not too sure how to do it.... Thought I could also possibly 'T' off the turbo oil feed, but I think the oil needs to circulate to work effectively... Another idea was to make a bypass manifold to fit under the OEM oil cooler and run lines from there... I'd be interested to hear anyone ideas on this....
Or I could just go blow-through and be done with it....
humpty ·
A pic of the POS on the night in question.....
SuperOwen ·
Ive seen quite a lot of draw through manifolds with the heating passages cast in. Probably be able to pick one up on ebay etc. Was the T section under the turbo icy as well?
humpty ·
Didn't check the "T" manifold..... Hmmmm?..... As the DCOE manifold I have is a custom made item I got from Nick, its a wee bit special.... Plus I have modified it for the purpose.... It now has a flange that bolts directly to the turbo intake flange.... I think adding a gallery under the manifold is the best option in my case.... But where to route the oil lines from is the problem?
pete wood ·
it's humid as all get out over here at the mo, what was the weather like that night? was it cool and humid? I'm just trying to get a picture. BTW, someone on STF mentioned something the other day to stop carbs icing up. Some sort of chemical. I'll try and remember what it was.
see what comes up... but I have to say, blow through does seem like a good idea to me too.
humpty ·
Cool and humid..... Nice sea breeze.... ie.... Perfect weather for an NA blast!
SuperOwen ·
Are you running external oil lines? Maybe just try wrapping some copper pipe around the manifold as a quick and easy test setup then TIG something nice up if it works. Another crazy thought is to rig up some sort of exhaust routing around the manifold, like a stock setup. Would work from cold a lot quicker.
Are you running a decklid? Just curious how it all fits under there, Im thinking about building a similar setup, injected though.
humpty ·
I do have braided lines running to my OBerg, but the idea of running lines from there across the engine to the carb doesn't really appeal....
But I have been thinking of something else....
See the two gallery boss' on the OEM offset adapter? Maybe I could tap the feed one of these and run lines from there to the manifold and back again to make the circuit? Seems a little OTT really.... Its a drag/streetcar really.... Not gonna be doing huge miles and rarely at night.... Hmmmmm.....
SuperOwen ·
Maybe a little electric blanket around the manifold, I saw something similar in an english vw mag years ago, a bit like a Nitrous bottle blanket, you could switch it off as well. Sounds silly but might work? Or you could just harden up a bit. 😂
matberry ·
Sounds crazy for a hp machine, but a warm air pickup for the carb intake might be simple enough to use only when you need to and quick and easy to try.
humpty ·
SuperOwen wrote:....Or you could just harden up a bit. 😂
I think you might be on to something there!!!😂
matberry wrote:Sounds crazy for a hp machine, but a warm air pickup for the carb intake might be simple enough to use only when you need to and quick and easy to try.
Taken off from where?.... The cylinder tin?
humpty ·
Ok.... As some of you may be aware....
I get back from Portland all inspired to take my car for a spin.... All is going well for a couple of days, then BAM!.... A cop pulls me over and I get a nice little 'defect notice' applied to the windscreen of the POS....
And so it begins.... The journey on which I must (one again) travel....
The shed was cleared out of all the antiques and VW mags today.... So the POS't made it back in for the first time in a few months....
Good to finally have it under cover once more....
Also got these babies out of storage....
The front end is now up in the air, the ERCO's are off, the tank is out and the steering is disconnected.... Tomorrow morning the 4" frontend will be out and the 2" will go back in with OG spindles... Brakes back on closely followed by the smoothies on 165's.... Need to find some more stock lugnuts.... Or maybe I can fit those snappy chromed ones I have in stock?.....
Hmmmm......
reub ·
Joys dude...
What did they say about the engine?
Also - love your pics from Portland👍
humpty ·
He noticed the hairdryer and tried to have a look at the engine, but the cover was locked.... Didn't ask me to unlock it.... Spose he thought he had made a long enough list to nail me.... All they need is three points to generate a sticker....
When you back down this way Reub?.... I'll take you for a spin in my 'stock as a rock' 60 Bug!!! 😀
colonel mustard ·
it's a shame mate. cant you get it plated for your mods??
cnfabo ·
oh no, humpty, i just noticed that they have put the yellow sticker on a angle, dunno if u know, but thats a sign for the guy at the pits too not let u pass.... the cop who pulled u over must of had serious sore ass syndrome!!!!! good luck dude.. c u down the retro drags on the 14th
matberry ·
cnfabo wrote:oh no, humpty, i just noticed that they have put the yellow sticker on a angle, dunno if u know, but thats a sign for the guy at the pits too not let u pass.... the cop who pulled u over must of had serious sore ass syndrome!!!!! good luck dude.. c u down the retro drags on the 14th
These guy's- sorry cop's have a sign for the inspectors....assh0les....nothing better to do.
Maybe that sticker just looks like it's on an angle, hell it nearly covers the whole screen, maybe you could move it saying it was unsafe to drive home like that.
Probably miles from your mind atm, but a warm air intake can come from your rear breastplate and drag in old cooling air and a bit of heat from the exhaust, similar to the stock location behind cyl #2.
Hope the stocker build goes without a hitch.
humpty ·
colonel mustard wrote:it's a shame mate. cant you get it plated for your mods??
The only major mod on the car is the turbo.... Which should pass without an issue as the car is a pre-76 built machine.... He may want brake upgrades too of course, but we will cross that bridge later.... The rest of the mods past inspections last time.... The points he picked me up on are the temporary things that I have done to make the conversion to turbo easier... Carpet was planned to go back in and stock smoothies will be rolling for the street... The ERCO's are for the drags only... I just don't have to coin for new street tyres right now...
cnfabo wrote:oh no, humpty, i just noticed that they have put the yellow sticker on a angle, dunno if u know, but thats a sign for the guy at the pits too not let u pass.... the cop who pulled u over must of had serious sore ass syndrome!!!!! good luck dude.. c u down the retro drags on the 14th
It's pretty straight Chris.... Just looks off in the pic.... When they fit it at an angle, it's very obvious.... The dude that pulled me over really had it in for me.... "been looking for" were his words... I must be a criminal or something.... Surely that must be it!?... Not gonna make the drags either... Helping the in-laws move house that weekend... 🥲
Stanley ·
Bummer dude....sorry to here.
They fear what they don't understand....maybe they were worried that if they had to give chase they wouldn't keep up.
humpty ·
If I get the sticker off, then all is ok.... But if not, I may be taking yet another leaf out of your book Andrew, and make the POS a full-time drag car.... Be a shame really, as is awesome to have that sort of power on the street....
Jobs done today.... Got the 4" out and the 2" in with stock spindles.... Drums on, brakes adjusted and stock smoothies on... Have it back on the ground tomorrow.... Bumpers will go back on next, then its time to get the interior sorted... Should be ready for the inspection late next week I reckon.... If not, I'll be set for the week following for sure....
Stanley ·
Hey Simon haven't you had a sticker before?
humpty ·
Yep.... A few times.... This car has had it twice in the past two years... I must be getting good at it!!!!!
Stanley ·
Sounds to me like the boys in blue (or what ever colour they wear over there) have it in for you.
good luck Simon
seagull ·
yawn
humpty ·
Surely you have something better to do Neil?
Go and finish that bloody Datsun!
seagull ·
Yawn ( again )
My datsun is just doing fine, It will smoke this peice of poo your building any way, so get your shit together
Gen 2 is ready to drag when you are , hello ( ! ) Hello ( ! ) give you a head start as well 🙂
humpty ·
POS is off the road indefinitely...
As a result of getting a defect notice on the car a few weeks back, I had to take all the HiPo gear off the car, and convert it back to stock... In going through the inspection last week, rust was 'found' and the car did not pass inspection.... On closer inspection, I have found the rust is much worse in the LHS heater channel (the only rust in the whole car!!!) than first thought... I have run out of time to effect a sound repair, so have decided to pull the car off the road for the time being...
The plates go in to the RTA on Tuesday....
Once I have done the work to make it sound once more, I will get it rego'd and rolling.... Then its time to go through all the bullshit legal stuff (to permit the turbo, trans, braking and suspension upgrades) that took it off the road in the first place....
It seems that WA cops have no sense of humor....
reub ·
Bugger dude... Don't you love hitting the wall with a project... I've done the same with the 58 - another story though👎
seagull ·
See , subaru wins the race . The true sleeper
let me know when you get it on the road again
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
seagull wrote:See , subaru wins the race . The true sleeper
let me know when you get it on the road again
"yawn" yep that word "subaru" definately puts me to sleep...
Tough luck on the defect mate. But then again you might have never foudn the rust till it was getting beyond a not so big repair.
humpty ·
seagull wrote:See , subaru wins the race . The true sleeper
Eerrmmm..... I don't think so..... A 'true' sleeper is a vehicle that has been modified to do things, that it was never designed to do.... Your Subaru's are factory built performance cars....
Hardly sleepers....
Build a fast Subi powered VW.... That is the definition of a 'true' sleeper!
humpty ·
Been working on the POS these past few days..... Refitting all the turbo gear and such.... Made a few minor mods to the car as well.... changed the fuel system to a none return set-up as advised by others.... Fabricated and fitted a rear tramp bar and made 'new' throttle spindle linkage as the other one was cactus.... As a result of these efforts I got the POS started today.... No leaks from what I can see, the new carb linkage is working well.... Nice light pedal, full return and no slop in the linkage at all.... Runs a little rough, very rich and seems to be popping a little at idle.... Fuel pressure is out of control (prolly why its running rich) and I think I may have coked up the sparkplugs....
Gonna pull the FPR tomorrow arvo and strip it down or maybe replace it with another Holley FPR I have set aside as a spare.... Will pull the plugs also.... Still need to fit the O2 gauge and harness and fit the shift light...
Got some work ahead of me, but the drag season is about to start and I want to race!
humpty ·
Hey fellas.... As some of you know.... The POS has been put back into draw-through turbo guise suckin' on a 45DCOE... I have changed the return fuel set-up to a non-return gig (on advise from those in the know) and fitted a Holley 12-804 (0-4psi) regulator.... At this stage it is NOT boost sensitive.... Been talking to a few peeps about this and all say do it, so I will.... But I have a couple of small questions....
1. What would you lot suggest I use as a vacuum/boost check valve?
The next issue is this..... I just fitted the reg tonight to make sure it was all sealed up good and solid, turned the key to prime the system and promptly got a waterfall of fuel entering the throats.... The reg is not coping with the pressure of the Holley Blue pump!!!
2. Any suggestions?
dangerous ·
Use a red reg with the blue pump, and make sure the reg is clean.
If dirty, you will get the full pump ressure of about 16psi.
Your 0-4 psi reg should be OK, but may have crap in the ball.
I used a boost gauge that was actually a snap-on low pressure tyre guage,
and the check valve in that worked well,
as did the one in the "memory kit" that came with the autometer guage I ended using.(when boost went to 42psi).
I did use one I found as a part of some polution equipment a a jap wreckers, but cant recall what it was for.
All depends on your plans for the check valve....pneumatics and hydraulic places stock all sorts.
humpty ·
Oh I'm getting full pressure!..... The gauge is reading right up there!!!!
The Holley 12-804 (0-4psi) regulator is actually what is called a Holley "Red" and its brand new.... I have a non-genuine Holley "Blue" here also, which was fitted before, but would not regulate lower than 4.5psi (adjuster screwed all the way out).... I'll have another go at the "Red" tomorrow and check for crap in the ball as you suggest Dave...
As for the check-valve.... I have found a check-valve that is used on Subaru emissions that looks very neat.... The check-valve is purely to control the the flow of boost anf vacuum to the top of the FPR.... Only want boost to enter the FPR bell.... Vacuum can suck the FPR diaphragm on decell/cruising which could stop the flow of fuel to the carb.... Or so I have been told.... Will plumb the Subi part in and see how we go....
Thanks for your advise Dave.
Craig Torrens ·
looking good Simon 👍............i need to find an excuse to come to Perth for a cruise !!
humpty ·
Always welcome Craig.... No more Red Bull Air Races for WA!!!!!.... Reuben's coming down this way next week for a little VW time... Drags on Wednesday night and beers with the local VW crowd on Thursday (third Thursday of every month)... See if you can pencil that in...
pete wood ·
I say try it without the muffler first. you can always throw a hotdog or bike muffler on later if you get pulled up.
BeetleJuice ·
humpty wrote:Oh I'm getting full pressure!..... The gauge is reading right up there!!!!
The Holley 12-804 (0-4psi) regulator is actually what is called a Holley "Red" and its brand new.... I have a non-genuine Holley "Blue" here also, which was fitted before, but would not regulate lower than 4.5psi (adjuster screwed all the way out).... I'll have another go at the "Red" tomorrow and check for crap in the ball as you suggest Dave...
As for the check-valve.... I have found a check-valve that is used on Subaru emissions that looks very neat.... The check-valve is purely to control the the flow of boost anf vacuum to the top of the FPR.... Only want boost to enter the FPR bell.... Vacuum can suck the FPR diaphragm on decell/cruising which could stop the flow of fuel to the carb.... Or so I have been told.... Will plumb the Subi part in and see how we go....
Thanks for your advise Dave.
Hey Humpty
Have you considered running a Mallory Fuel Pump with lower pressure than the Holley? I guess it depends on your volume requirements.
Mallory 4070 pumps around 5.5 psi and 72gph unrestricted. At 3-4psi restricted pumps 30gph.
Maybe this one:
Model 110 High Performance Electric Fuel Pump
• High pressure, 12-volt fuel pump delivers 110+ GPH free
flow @ 12.5 volts
• Internal bypass regulator factory set at 7 PSI
• Delivers 90+ GPH at 6 PSI
• 3/8" NPT thread size, 3/8" or larger fuel line recommended
• Use regulator part number 4207, 4210, 4307M, 4316M or 4309
for best performance
• Service parts available for use with alcohol/
methanol applications
Craig
humpty ·
Thanks for the heads up Craig.... I'm currently looking at al options.... There has to be a solid and good value way to do this....
A dude in the US that I have been talking about DCOE jetting, has suggested I do as he has done on his sand drag car.... He describes it thus...
"Here is how I plumb the system, at the pump, install the higher pressure regulator, and upstream, near the carb, install the second low pressure regulator. You modify the low pressure regulator by removing the diaphragm cover, and drill and tap on the side of the cover for a small 1/8" hose barb. At this location, you run a hose from the diaphragm cover to the boost side of the system. In this hose you need to install a check valve. The check valve needs to allow boost pressure to flow toward the regulator, but not allow engine vacumm to draw against the regulator diaphragm. You set the low pressure (upstream) regulator at 1 1/2 psi, and the downstream (near the pump) at around 4 to 5 psi. The engine will see the upstream regulated pressure when normal running, when on boost, the signal from the boost side of the system will depress the upstream diaphragm. This will increase the upstream fuel pressure to the level of the downstream regulator. This is the method used by many turbo guys..."
I have read this sort of thing before and from all reports it seems to be the go.... Of course there are a few fellas that feel this is not the best move.... 2Stroke seems to think I need to spend more money, but as yet he's not really been too helpful.... I know he's coming around to the idea and is very knowledgeable, so I wait for is reply on this....
Stanley ·
hey Simon...get hold of a copy of Turbomania (Bob Tomlinson) from memory there is a heap of info on DCOE carbs and setting up. They were all the rage when the book was written.
humpty ·
Stanley wrote:hey Simon...get hold of a copy of Turbomania (Bob Tomlinson) from memory there is a heap of info on DCOE carbs and setting up. They were all the rage when the book was written.
Yeah got that.... But Bob is into Dellortos.... Not a lot of info on webers unfortunately.... But I think I'll have another look through it... There might be something golden in there to help me with these issues....
Thanks for the reminder!
matberry ·
The dual regulators sounds feasable. My main question is how does the boost pressure bleed off from the secondary (low pressure) reg with the check valve? The way I see it, 1st time the reg sees boost, the pressure will remain behind the check valve and then the primary reg will take over until off boost for how long until the pressure bleeds off.
dangerous ·
humpty wrote:.... But Bob is into Dellortos.....
He was only into dells when that was all he sold,
now they sell webers they dont bag them anymore.
From memory there WAS some good info in there regarding webers, but yes, not as much as the Dell's since that was what they sold.
My advice to you simon, is to KISS.
Use a pump that's flow is up to the job,
and a reg that can keep pressure down where your carb needs it.
If you want a rising rate reg, then get one that is off the shelf.
The go race.
humpty ·
dangerous wrote:
humpty wrote:.... But Bob is into Dellortos.....
He was only into dells when that was all he sold,
now they sell webers they dont bag them anymore.
From memory there WAS some good info in there regarding webers, but yes, not as much as the Dell's since that was what they sold.
My advice to you simon, is to KISS.
Use a pump that's flow is up to the job,
and a reg that can keep pressure down where your carb needs it.
If you want a rising rate reg, then get one that is off the shelf.
The go race.
Hahaha.... Yeah I know your right Dave.... Nick just sent me a message that woke me up!.... I've been a stupid bastard... Nick suggested the simplest option and one I know to be right.... Just fit a Malpassi and be done with it!.... Just need to order a single outlet rising rate number...
fat-attack ·
hey POS, got a twin dellorto setup in the mail at the moment for a 2276. Will post up how it goes with in when i get the chance to get it installed
Stanley ·
Good call on keeping it simple. I decided to go home and have a flick through turbomania again for myself (was either that or watch X factor). All the systems with side draught carbs were fairly simple unless you went blowthrough or were running huge boost.
Also re-read the bit where he bags 4 barrel carbs......🤪
humpty ·
Stanley wrote:Also re-read the bit where he bags 4 barrel carbs......🤪
He sure does beat on the Dellorto drum and kick the shite out of Holley's!....
Oh man.... More detail from Nick on how he suggests I do this.... Same system he used back in the day when this carb I have was on one of his cars.... My god is a strange method!!!????..... But simple all the same..... I'll be sure to post some pics up once I have it all together...
ian.mezz ·
I think I seen some where on here how to make your holley work its best???? I am sure there was a vid , but I just cant find it.🤪🙅🤪
can someone clue me up on why 4 barrel drawthrough setups are so popular? I don't get it myself, I mean I can see the cheapness factor, but why not run blowthrough or EFI and then at least you can use an intercooler?
humpty ·
pete wood wrote:can someone clue me up on why 4 barrel drawthrough setups are so popular? I don't get it myself, I mean I can see the cheapness factor, but why not run blowthrough or EFI and then at least you can use an intercooler?
As most of the draw-through crowd are into drag racing, intercooled/blow-through set-ups offer little advantage if any.... And not everyone wants or needs the hassles/complexities associated with the blow-through either.... My car makes plenty of boost, drives very nicely on the street, runs very cool and was far easier to build... My bus on the other hand, is going to the efi/blow-through... But the reasons are simple... It's a driver, not a quarter miler and I don't like the idea of a turbo in the engine bay with the fuel tank...
The sidedraft v holley issue is a totally different argument though.... Some believe that the holley offers better fueling across the range in this config. With a larger float bowl, more progressive circuits and cheaper in the US than the sidedraft carbs, I can see the advantage... The problems I have with them, is that they are very hard to get under a decklid.... Even a conventionally propped one like mine.... And they are not really any cheaper in this country.
Stanley ·
As Simon says (sorry for the pun) the Holley's, in my case the 600, has 2 big float bowls which is perfect for methanol. The disadvantage with the Holley is they are difficult to tune over a wide rev range hence the reason why you see mods for boost referencing the power valve amongst others. In my case it will spend 90% of its life at WOT so that's where it is tuned with a small PV and big jets. Track time will tell.
The other disadvantage in draw through is the fact that a down draught Holley needs the fuel to change direction from vert to horizontal which allows the fuel to come out of suspension. If this was the case a side draught like Simons would be more efficient. I argue that when any fuel hits a compressor wheel doing X000 RPM that it's going to fling the majority to the outside and come out of suspension regardless.
In saying all that you're probably wondering why the hell go for a Holley then. The reason I went Holley is mainly because I had hoped to have a blower fitted but didn't get it finished. The SU while a good carb for the street in my opinion suffered at the track due to not having an accelerator pump. There are plenty of people using Holleys but ask me after Warwick and I’ll tell if it was a good move.
Keep up the good work Simon.
humpty ·
Upon Nick's help with this, I am refitting the Malpassi that I had fitted way back at the start of this project, and thrown out the Holley FPR's.... Stupid farka I am.... I should have listened to Nick's advise from the start!!!!
But anyway... How Nick has suggested I fit the Malpassi is a very curious one for me, but I have been informed by my brother (who is also a very clever dude), that the method Nick has suggested is also how Subaru do it.... But I digress...
The questions I ask those that a cleverer than I, are as follows...
In the image below, you can see that I have relocated the FP gauge to the fuel inlet point on the DCOE.... Anyone have any issues with this location?
Next I give you the Malpassi FPR location....
Likewise, can anyone see a problem with mounting it here?... Apart from the minor obstruction to the oil filler cap and breather point?
And before you ask.... Yes the FPR outlets are looped on purpose... I'm not going to use them on this set-up....
Stanley ·
Having the gauge at the inlet IN the carb will give you a true pressure at the inlet when the fuel is flowing. Mine is at the pump and won't give an accurate reading due to pressure drop when the fuel flows.
humpty ·
Thanks for that Andrew.... I appreciate the advise everyone is offering here....
All I need now is to source a suitable 'T' fitting to connect the FPR to the fuel feed and we are ready to rock... If it all works as planned, I'll pull the FPR and plug the outlets with some grub screws.... Next job is make up a vacuum chamber so I can run the various vac/boost componenets off one source.... T'ing off the manifold/turbo line is becoming problematic....
Here's hoping!
humpty ·
Latest update....
The story so far....
As you guys know, I've been having some issues with fuel pressure... It seems that since I changed the system to a 'dead head' setup instead of the previous 'return' setup, I have way too much fuel pressure and the Holley FPR's that I have tried (and was told would do the job), have not coped.... So after consulting may turbo VW peeps around the globe, I have come to the conclusion that nobody has any clue about turbo fuel systems, and the fool proof setting up of them.... What works for one dude, may not work for another.... I have proved this, as I have attempted 4 different set-ups and none have done the job yet.... But its funny how the world turns...
After chatting to Nick about this problem, I have redone the system again and gone back to the original set-up I had fitted way back at the start.... But with a curious twist.... As some of you may remember, the carb and manifold I have on my car actually came from Nick... I think it was used on his one of his street cars from earlier this century.... So he should know what system worked best for this carb.... And here it is....
If you look directly below the carb velocity stacks you will see the Malpassi rising rate fuel pressure regulator (FPR)... You may notice that the outlets on the carb are "capped".... Weird huh?.... I thought so too... So here's an explanation on how this system works.... The fuel from the pump goes directly to the carb.... No regulation (at least in the conventional sense).... Spliced into the line to the carb, the fuel is t'ed off to the FPR fuel inlet.... From the FPR the fuel is then returned to the tank... The flow of which is controlled by the boost reference port at the top of the FPR.... Fuel pressure will be set quite low at idle.... Like 2psi low.... As boost rises, the FPR pressure also rises, which restricts the flow of fuel back to the tank, in turn the fuel volume and pressure increases the flow to the carb....
I will get an accurate pressure measurement from the FP gauge I have fitted to the carb fuel intake...
To make all this happen I needed to create constant source for the FPR, iginition MAP and the boost gauge to get their respective vacuum/boost signals from.... The method I had before was getting messy with too many vacuum lines t'ing off the main line..... So I made a vacuum chamber with it's feed from a port on the intake manifold.... The FPR, the ignition and the boost gauge all get their signals from there.
Haven't started it yet.... Need to get a new car battery... Noticed a nice little Optima battery in Morgans' car at Portland earlier this year.... Might sell a kidney and buy one of those...
humpty ·
Finally got back to the car today.... Seems all my time has been focused on getting the "Free'n'Easy" sorted ( http://www.noh2o.org/viewtopic.php?t=1742 ) and working on other peoples VW's.... Everyone says I should do this sort of stuff for a living.... But if I did I reckon I'd tire of it pretty quickly.... I know that's what happened when I was a graphic designer and that's what's happened now I'm an art teacher!!!!..... But I digress....
The POS is alive once more!!!!
Now its back to reality....
I went through the usual checks prior to starting the car after modifications.... Very nervous moments I can tell you.... But all looked good.... Got the LC-1 calibrated, the FPR was seeing pressure and the boost gauge was all lit up...
So I turned the key.... Fired up almost straight away... Got up to temp nicely and idle settled pretty quickly.... If a little high...
Then it was time check things out.....
The boost gauge was not reading anything.... It's just flashing at me...???
Figured out the plug in the back of it is a little sketchy.... Fixed that with a little tape....
Still no boost.... Hmmmmm?
It all worked fine last time.... Before I fitted the gauge.... Previously the laptop was telling me the engine was producing boost, so whats changed?
The snappy boost/vacuum manifold I made.... Can't tell if its leaking, so I plugged the new lappy in, config'ed the COM's port to read the Megajolt.... All looked nice..... But..... No boost?.... So the manifold could be the suspect.... Gonna unplug it and fit the boost line directly to the ignition as before and see what's happening.... If both the Megajolt and the gauge see boost, we know the manifold is the issue... At this late stage I will go back to the old system and just 'T' everything off the one intake manifold port....
The next thing I have to tell is, the Innovate LC-1 is working a treat.... After going through the calibration process, the gauge reads loud and clear... At idle the engine is running very fat at 10.9-11.9.... At revs it seems to be peaking at around 13.5-14.5.... Which is about bang on.... It always did run strong and clean under power, so that's good news... And I knew my idle mixture was way rich before I fitted the LC-1, so that's further confirmation... Gotta see what I can do about the rich mixture at idle...
And finally.... Nick's idea for the fuel system seems to be working out.... As I can't see any boost at the moment, I suspect the referencing is not working either.... But I have the fuel pressure at idle sitting around 2.5psi.... Good enough for now....
Having a cuppa right now... Will let the car cool down and pull the vacuum chamber from the circuit and give it another shot.... If the boost returns, I know that's that problem sorted.... If the FPR see's boost also, that's further confirmation....
Here's hoping I have some good news later tonight!!!!
Stanley ·
Well?
humpty ·
Got the boost referencing happening, the FPR is a little erratic.... I think the pump might be over powering the FPR.... Changed out the air's from 150's to 180's.... A big jump I know, but it's all I have.... Idles are currently 55F8's and I don't have anything smaller.... So will stick with that for now.... The wiring in the engine bay and rear cabin is done.... Just finishing up the front and dash and we are good to go.... Can't get the shift light to work... Suspect it might need to be calibrated via the megajolt.... No time tonight or tomorrow night.... Jobs to do on Wednesday morning are.... Finish off the wiring, see if the tach and shiftlight are working, fit larger rear tyres and get a wheel alignment..... Then its off to the drags on Wednesday night.... I'll be there to have a blast.... Even if the gauges and shift light aren't working god damn it!
Dero ·
Wednesday eh... think i might sneak down and check it out 🥷
reub ·
Bugger... I won't be down ...
Look forward to the post drag update dude. 👍
matberry ·
Good luck Simon, hope it goes well.
humpty ·
Did a two hour short course on setting up a TIG welder this arvo.... Thanks to the WA Ed Dept for that.... 😘
Sol I got home at a reasonable time this eve.... I got into the shed for a bit before I head out tonight to an art exhibition opening.... It's a busy time in Freo I can tell you!!!!
Finshed the wiring under the dash... Got the Monster Tach and the boost gauge sorted.... Even have the dash lights working all the extra gauges.... Still no shift light.... Might see if I can run that off the tacho instead of the Megajolt....
Started the POS and the idle is much better after the air jet upgrade.... AFR's are good.... Still fat, but better the caution I say.... Got the car booked in for a wheel alignment and some big ass 205/70-15 Conti's for the rear...
I have no clue as to how the car will go.... Hope I can keep the red mist at bay and ease my way into setting the car up.... Will keep you guys posted on how we go....
Cheers fellas.....
PS:.... Bring the Bus out Joel.... My bro is racing the BD23!
Boostn ·
PM
humpty ·
Well that was a bit of a fizzer....
Couldn't get any boost and the ignition was failing...
Couldn't quite figure it out.... Tried everything I could think of...
After two very crappy runs with nothing but coughing and farting, I put the car on the trailer.... Then my little brother and I have a chat about it on the way home... He watched my shocking runs and said that the car was dumping a heap of fuel as the car was bucking about... And I'm sure I noticed a 9 on the AFR meter at one point, which leads me to believe that I'm getting way too much fuel through.... Following my little bro's observation and his theory that its a fuel related issue, (I felt it was ignition based) I have come to conclusion that as the engine begins to build boost, the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) is ramping up the flow of fuel... This then proceeds to kill the spark... In an earlier post I also mentioned the point that the FPR can not get the fuel pressure low enough... Between 4-6psi at all times.... More constant than any previous fuel system incarnation but still way too high, so I'm sure that's not helping the issue....
Now to further support this theory, I had found that once the runs were completed, the car continued to misbehave on the way back to the pits and continue to run poorly in the pits for some time... Only after the car had idled for a while and was aloud to settle down, did the ignition begin to behave as it should.... Still no boost being registered, but at least the idle was ok....
So what do you guys reckon?
I think tomorrow I'll pull the boost hose to the FPR off and see what the car does... If the fueling settles down and the car produces boost as it has done in the past, then I think we may have the problem solved and its back to the track next week... If not, I'll try redoing the vacuum/boost lines.... Starting with putting the solid lines back in (currently they are all soft lines)... But I think I might remake the 'T' manifold.... Don't like how the current one fits and I know I could do a much neater job of the vac/boost port setup... One separate port for each referenced appliance me thinks....
Back into the shed tomorrow...
Stanley ·
Bad luck Simon.
Is it fuel pressure related or just too much fuel ie jets?
and is it running that bad you can't put your boot in to build boost or is this another issue?
Hang in there mate
matberry ·
Bummer
Sounds like your on the right track to me, too much fuel....but why.....
Surely Nick has some idea's.
Yes to the individual ports for maniflod sensors IMO.
dangerous ·
humpty wrote:In an earlier post I also mentioned the point that the FPR can not get the fuel pressure low enough... Between 4-6psi at all times.... More constant than any previous fuel system incarnation but still way too high, so I'm sure that's not helping the issue....
I would say that is your problem there.
It is well known that webers and dells dont like high fuel pressures,
but with your rising rate reg, that will probably be too much
.
If it does not actually flood,
the bowl level WILL artificially be over full,
and muck up everything.
For example the emulsions rely on the fuel level to be correct
to work their intended way.
I tried a rising rate reg on my Holley years ago
and it was jut too much pressure when boost was applied, (did as you describe)
so went back to a basic blue reg for each bowl.
(the holley needle valves could handle 6psi)
This is not to say it shouldn't work,
but you may have to start lower(say 1.5 to 3psi?),
and limit total pressure under boost to something more realistic.
You should be able to simulate this with an air reg without even running the car.
When the plugs get too fouled,
they may never recover, even when cleaned.
That black carbon can track the spark to earth and require plug replacement.
trickysimon ·
FWIW, all the R31 Skyline/ VL turbo people down here cannot stand the Malpassi's.
Quote from a local forum. "Also, if that fuel reg is a malpassi, fuck it off and put a stock one on. id say that would be half your troubles. those things are shit house"
humpty ·
Thanks for the words of advise there guys.... The more I think about it the more I agree with the idea Dave... I know webers (like dells) don't do high pressure.... Everywhere I look suggests 3-3.5psi max..... The over fueling is killing the spark with poor performance following.... Nick suggested the FPR should be able to get it down to 1-1.5 PSI, but my FPR can not.... I suspect the pump is actually producing too much pressure.... I could source another pump with a lower limit, or I might fit another FPR and set the max pressure at a higher level.... Say 8psi.... Then let the malpassi control the referenced pressure at the carb....
Off to get some more plugs and maybe another pump....
SuperOwen ·
I can't see why you need a rising rate setup in a draw through config. Just keep it simple, bypass regulator set at a constant pressure and let the carb work as intended.
humpty ·
SuperOwen wrote:I can't see why you need a rising rate setup in a draw through config. Just keep it simple, bypass regulator set at a constant pressure and let the carb work as intended.
Been there, tried that, didn't work.... I think the reason it didn't work for me is more down to the pump I have.... Its a Holley Blue... Way too powerful for a conventional draw-through set-up... No regulator on the planet (as far as I could find/afford anyway) could get the pressure low enough for the weber...
Gonna stick one of my Holley FPR's inline before the Malpassi in an attempt to drop the pressure a little... Hopefully I can then get the Malpassi to regulate down the 1psi at idle, and boost reference to the level the Holley FPR is set too...
Boostn ·
hey simon,
what size fuel lines do you have? up and back?
Boostn ·
SuperOwen wrote:I can't see why you need a rising rate setup in a draw through config. Just keep it simple, bypass regulator set at a constant pressure and let the carb work as intended.
The bowl will empty [on boost] quicker than the holley blue can get past the 2.5 needle valve.
humpty ·
Boostn wrote:hey simon,
what size fuel lines do you have? up and back?
12mm ID from the tank to the filter (12mmID tank fitting) then to the pump, 10mmID line to 3/8 hardline to the rear, 10mmID to the FPR/Carb (as per the previous pics), via 3/8 'T' return, to 10mmID hardline back to the top of the tank...
So basically 10mmID for the most part in both directions....
Boostn ·
MMMM,
I always ran 1/2'' copper.
It could be the reason you can't get the pressure down?
Boostn ·
does the mallpassie change the fuel pressure when you adjust the screw?
humpty ·
Boostn wrote:MMMM,
I always ran 1/2'' copper.
It could be the reason you can't get the pressure down?
WHAT?.... What do you do about the fact that the pump, fpr and tank barbs aren't gonna be big enough?... Step them down to 3/8"?
Boostn wrote:does the mallpassie change the fuel pressure when you adjust the screw?
Only a small amount... Hardly noticeable.
Boostn ·
The tank was 1/2'' pick up.
the pump had 1/2'' fittings.
the feed and return lines were both 1/2''
yes there was a step from mallpassie to return line.
you should be able to adjust the screw with massive changes. Even the sound of the pump should change.
maybe your malpassie is stuffed? or the small lines are making the pump too hard to bleed off?
I had the same problem ages ago with a 10mm line feeding fuel to the nitrous solenoid. I even had a bleed off in it but it would still have too much pressure initially. I replaced it with a 1/2'' line and the problem went away.
I'm not saying that that is your prob.........just an idea.
pull the reg apart and have a look. might just be sticky?
humpty ·
Will do..... It's brand new.... Well... I bought a few years back, but have never used it till now.... Will check it out tomorrow... If that's not the case, would the 'stepped' regulator idea work?.... I know in industrial situations it's pretty common practice.
Boostn ·
i'd say so but what happens when you need more volume of fuel with more boost?
humpty ·
Boostn wrote:i'd say so but what happens when you need more volume of fuel with more boost?
When the time comes, I guess I'll have to make the hole bigger!!!!
Stanley ·
I had a siimilar problem with mine earlier on. I had the FPR mounted at the back and ran a new feed line but used the old feed line as the return to the tank from the FPR.
It created so much back pressure I couldn't get the pressure down and kept flooding the SU. I ended up mounting the FPR at the tank with a small length of big return line. Problem gone.
However, now i'm only just getting enough pressure at the FPR to suit the holley but I imagine i'm losing 1-2 psi due to the FPR position so ultimately down a bit. I need to fit a gauge at the carb inlet to see what is at the end of the line.
Good discussion though guys
SuperOwen ·
Boostn wrote:
SuperOwen wrote:I can't see why you need a rising rate setup in a draw through config. Just keep it simple, bypass regulator set at a constant pressure and let the carb work as intended.
The bowl will empty [on boost] quicker than the holley blue can get past the 2.5 needle valve.
Fair enough, obviously thats the biggest needle and seat available for that carb then. What setup are guys over in the states like kawells running? They seem to like sidedraft setups for years.
humpty ·
Funny thing happened in the shed today....
Fitted one of the Holley FPR's (inline before the Malpassi) I have here and now I haven't got any pressure!!!!????....I do get a boost signal at the pressure gauge now.... Engine sounds a lot better to.... I wonder if the gauge is sketchy?.... Will try the other genuine Holley fpr...
Fun and games....
fish26 ·
mate, you gonna be the turbo go to guy after you get yours sorted, fun and games and all worth it when you stab it, I love the set up so far.
I just sent an email to AJ Sims regarding their turbo headers and "adjusta jet" Holley carbs, hopefully will have an engine built by the end of the year.
humpty ·
Hahaha.... I dunno about that!!!! I'm almost ready to put a bomb under the POS and go back to carbs!!!!... Got back into the shed last night and sorted the fuel pressure problem.... All good now.... Nice and crisp without the cloud of black smoke.... But still I have no revs or boost?... Still thinking ignition.... Pulled the plugs and replaced them... No better.... Refitted the reference hardlines.... Disconected the reference port of the FPR.... Nothing.... Gonna pull the plug leads and test them.... Tomorrow...
The VW Show I have organized is on today.... Better go wash the bus.
humpty ·
Ignition died today. Totally no spark now. 🙁
Stanley ·
humpty wrote:Ignition died today. Totally no spark now. 🙁
That's kinda good Simon....atleast the real problem seems to have surfaced
Dero ·
Not the EDIS! I find that suprising...
Boostn ·
Cool you found the prob.
Got to love two problems at the same time, one masking the other.
Is the ignition an easy fix, or do you need a new system?
Do you know why it failed? Freak or common prob?
You know that crank trigger can trigger a microtech.....................................😂
humpty ·
It's kinda odd how the world turns.... Saturday was a pretty busy day for me, what with the 'Free'n'Easy" show and all, but the really strange thing is that electricory stuff all around me decided the pack it in at the same time...
My ADSL karked it, the ignition died in the POS, the brake lights on the SquareHack chucked a wobbly and the "sister in-law's" Golf refused to start....
But no Joel.... I reckon the EDIS is ok.... And the Megajolt too....
I think the problem will most likely be a poor earth or harness connection.... Both of which can only be blamed on my crappy skills...
Microtech!!???.... Your a funny guy Nick! 😂
Will pull the harness on Wednesday and check it through.... I don't really like the look of the set-up anyway.... I'm sure I can make a neater job of it.
humpty ·
OMG..... I'm sure a bloody dufus!..... I went through all the suggested EDIS checks and it all looked good... Couldn't figure it out.... Tried to start the car again, and it fired!!!!???? But wouldn't go.... What the????? .... Didn't do that before????.... Thought it couldn't just be fuel could it?.... So on the off chance, I pulled the jets from the DCOE.... The galleries looked filthy!!!.... Idiot!.... The jets are fine, but the galleries look bad.... No clue why the galleries are so bad... Two Bosch filters are inline...Possibly it was in the regulators I'm running to get the pressure down????.... Will pull the top off the carb tomorrow and run some carby clean and air down there and see if it cleans up....
I wonder if I will see rpm and boost after all this?
matberry ·
🙂🙂
humpty ·
So the fuel problems continue.... Got the pressure issue under control, but now I have a filtering problem.... Clearly the twin EFI filters are not doing the job.... The theory is that for the filters to work correctly, high pressure is required.... Since my system needs high flow/low pressure, the filters are not working effectively.... So another filter system needs to be devised.... I have been looking using one of those replaceable filter element deals with a glass bowl at the bottom and a cast ali mounting 'head' (Ryco Fuel Filter - R2132UA).... Very bulky, but apparently perfect for low pressure/high flow setups....
What do you guys suggest?.... Any other options?
Boostn ·
This is what I run.
works as a surge tank as well.
matberry ·
The CAV filter you speak of Simon, I found fine as an inline efi filter OR carb system prefilter, easy for replacement filters, and the clear bowl can be helpful, but Nicks looks nicer. 🙂
humpty ·
I hope your right Mat..... Spoke to me ol' mate Seagull about this issue last night and he said his dad had one of those Ryco numbers sitting in his shed.... Gonna see if I can grab that this morning, get a fresh filter for it and whack it in.... Looking at that picture/schematic of Nicks post, it's the only filter in use!!!???
dragvw2180 ·
Hey Humpty,
First , I have been following your progress and really like your car, from the pics she is pretty sweet. I think when you get it all sorted out you will have something to be very proud of.
On my boys street car we run a rising rate regulator ( CB )and had a problem of sensing boost at idle causing it to richen the mixture by raising the fuel pressure on us. We moved the port from the Y pipe to below the carbs. This is a blow thru setup so it may not apply to your problem, but I would unhook the boost line to make sure it isn't causing a problem at idle.
On my car I run a Mallory fuel pump ( have run the blue pumps with no problems) , 1/2 inch lines from the fuel cell to the pump, 1/2 inch line from pump to the Oberg fuel filter I have in the rear, from filter to regulator it is still 1/2 inch. Coming out of the Holley Red regulator ( non boost sensitive) I believe it is AN6 to each bowl of my Holley 600. This is the same exact setup I ran with the 48 IDA's when it was N/A. You should be able to hold your pressure steady at 3 psi with a Red regulator.I would suggest putting a rebuild kit in the Red regulator, it may have a Blue spring in it instead of the proper one, the regs are the same and parts are interchangeable. Someone asked what the Kawells ran on their cars with the side drafts, I saw a Red Holley regulator that had been boost referanced on Blackey when I was at their shop, the carb was a side draft Weber . I asked about the side draft carbs and Dave Recommended to use a 40 for the street and 48 for the track, he did not care for the 45. I understand it was what you had and I see no reason it should not work. I would think about asking about Venturi sizes from someone who runs a 45 and 1776 .
Someone asked why 4 barrel carb draw through setups are so popular over in the US. I do not believe the quality of the new Webers are what they used to be and getting original Weber parts is getting harder every day. I have to order jets and parts then have to wait for them to arrive, a hastle when they come in wrong. On my 600 Holley I bought a jet kit with virtually all the jets I might ever need locally for 51.00 so it is easier to tune it, Weber jets are expensive . On a rolling dyno we had it tuned in 4 jet changes . The main reason I like the Holley is that if I do run into a problem I can find parts easily locally . I like the blow thru dual 48 IDF carbs we have on my boys car, but when we upgrade the turbo to a TO4 we will probably go with a Holley.
I know I probably haven't told you anything new , but I just wanted to tell you not to get too frustrated. You guys have some quality brain power over there and I know there are people in this community who will try to help you. I wish I was there, a 6 pack of beer and a couple hours work and we would have it sorted out.
Talk to you soon, Mike
humpty ·
Thanks for the support Mike.... Really appreciate your input.... Totally agree with in regards to our local 'brains trust'.... There is so much knowledge in this country.... Very little in this part of the country (Western Australia), but with these forums the knowledge transfer is amazing....
I got the car going again a couple of weeks back, with the hope of getting it back on the track, then decided to redo the intake 't' manifold.... Wasn't really happy with the first version as it had 'shifted' a little since the first build and no longer sat on the engine well... As a result one of the intake boots had odd loads on its shape and had begun to break down.... Also, the need for more vacuum reference ports meant it had to be pulled and modified.... It was easier to make a new one.... Finished that yesterday.... It fits so much better than the last one..... Scored a better fuel filter too.... The Ryco one I was looking at had very small intake/outtake ports and internal galleries, so I went on the prowl.... Found exactly what I needed for 44 bux from a marine supply store.... It look exactly like the one that CB sell and the one that Nick posted early.... The galleries are huge, the fittings are 1/2" and it looks very well built... Will be fitting that in the next few days.... Not today.... Huge night last night.... Hung over....
Desert Moose ·
Hi Mate. not sure where your at with this, but if what you have doesn't work I have these you can have. one is the VW supplier style filter mount the other is one I have used which is a toyota fuel filter. yours if you want them
humpty ·
Thanks for the offer Chris, but I think I have it under control.... Might make a go of getting it in the car tomorrow night....
humpty ·
Hey guys.... The challenges have all be met, the fuel pressure is under control, the timing with the megajolt/EDIS is working nicely and car is making power and good economy once more.....
Under the rear parcel shelf along side the transaxle... Nice spot, great product and hopefully a very long life!!!!
But.....
I now have the small problem of fuel pooling in the turbo and leaking out after the engine is shut down... From memory (or lack of it!) I don't recall ever having this issue before... Possibly because the car was a street car and any fuel that may have leaked from the turbo was vapourised on account of the engine bay heat?
For those that don't know my car....
I have noticed some turbo set-ups have the compressor side of the turbo scroll facing the other way.... Is the pooling problem the reason?.... So fuel can drain out of the turbine housing on shut down?
Boostn ·
Nice work Simon.
Is the fuel leaking from the comp cover? If so welcome to draw through.
If it's not a leak it's a weep. There is fuel just sitting there.
Keep in mind that when you make crazy power later on, you might have to 'up' the fuel lines to keep up.
humpty ·
Boostn wrote:Nice work Simon.
Is the fuel leaking from the comp cover? If so welcome to draw through.
If it's not a leak it's a weep. There is fuel just sitting there.
Keep in mind that when you make crazy power later on, you might have to 'up' the fuel lines to keep up.
Cheers Nick.... I can't thank you enough for you help with the project....
I'd also like to let you guys know that the 2276 bits are at the machine shop as we speak.... The filter has the capacity to go larger with a fittings change.... I have 1/2" fittings in the stash.... The body needs to come off the pan for a heater channel replacement... So the new fuel lines will be done at the same time as the upgrade.... Think I'll route them through the tunnel next time.... With AN fittings at either end....
Time for a transaxle upgrade me thinks!
😁
humpty ·
One other thing.... The inner and out comp housing parts (GT2560 turbo) are simply clamped together with a metal contact area.... When I got the turbo from a ricer mate, I did notice a slight smear of blue silicone on the mating surfaces.... Maybe even on a Skyline (where this turbo came from), these surfaces weep fuel after shut down?
humpty ·
Got a permit to drive the car on public roads today..... WooooHoooo!..... I got boost!!!!!..... Fark it goes!!!!......
But there still is a problem.... I can't hold boost for very long.... The engine goes stupid lean very quickly..... I think the boost reference FPR is not working.... Or I have it set-up incorrectly!?
Hmmm..... Some time ago I picked up a crappy non oil filled fuel pressure gauge.... So I just fitted that..... It seems my fuel adjustments were all wrong.... And the Holley style FPR wasn't working correctly either.... I was only getting 2psi out f it!!!!!..... Adjusted it further.... Can't get more than 4psi out of it.... Fitted the genuine Holley FPR I have in the stash.... Got 6psi now..... And the gauge at the carb is reading 1.5psi via Malpassi by-pass rig.... Not perfect, but much better.....
Off for another drive....
matberry ·
👍
Well how's she run???
humpty ·
Back from the drive.....
After some fine adjustments on the road the car is running much better..... Still need to find another 5psi though.... Gonna make some calls on getting a 4-9spi rebuild kit for the Holley....
All this frigging around has coked the plugs I think.... Will pull them when the engine has cooled down....
Getting closer!
humpty ·
matberry wrote:👍
Well how's she run???
Still shit.... Picked up yet another FPR.... Supposedly a 4-14psi deal.... Fitted that..... Still can't get that extra 5psi I'm looking for.... And now I can't get the Malpassi to drop any lower than 3psi!!!!???
WTF?
Dodgy pump?.... Supposed to be good for 14psi, but I reckon its not making it.... Will test it tomorrow.... Also thinking about going back to a dead head FPR set-up.....
😬
matberry ·
Man .... crazy stuff. 👎👎
humpty ·
Its a freakin comedy that's what it is!!!!!
Boostn ·
Hey Simon,
is the new filter before or after the pump?
It should be before the pump. These pumps aren't that good when they get a bit old or when something has gone through them.
does the carbie flood now at 3psi?
I would......
1] mount the filter under the tank with a 1/2'' line feeding it from the tank.
2] flow the pump to see it is ok.
3] piss the reg off and only use the mallpassie.
4] this system has worked so many time without a single problem but I always ran 1/2'' lines.
even just zip tie 1/2'' copper lines next to your current lines.
is the mallpassie ok? do you want me to send you one that has worked for me?
maybe just try a system on the bench and get it working before you fit it all to the car.
get some garden hose, a jerry can, the filter and pump and make it work as I suggested to see if it solves your problem.just an idea...
humpty ·
The filter is after the pump.... There just is no room under the tank to fit it.... I figured, better to get it in the system, than not at all.... If I have to mount it before the pump (which I know is recommended), then I think the only realistic option is to mount it in the spare wheel well...
The carb is not flooding as far as I can see.... The pump was brand new.... The Malpassi can't get the pressure lower than 3psi.... But I don't think the pump is making more than 5.... At least not at the Holley FPR..... The O2 gauge is telling me I'm getting plenty of fuel with the power on, but I think it gets lean pretty quick.... The car just up and dies.... I have seen very high numbers on the O2 when it does!!!!!..... The Malpassi is new, but it might be dodgy..... If you do have another floating around Nick I'd be very grateful...
I think I'll have to do as you suggest Nick and rip the pump, filter and reg from the car and bench test it.... Then I'll have to figure out where to run the fuel lines.... 1/2" is huge!!!.... Do you run the lines down the pan, or the in the tunnel, or around the body/pan channel?
I have a couple of hours in the shed today.... Then its back into it tomorrow arvo and Sunday.... Here's hopin'!
humpty ·
All stripped out.... Will bench test tomorrow arvo.... Will see if I can get some 1/2" bundy tube to run the hard lines.... Copper is a pain for me.... I don't have soldering gear.... Not sure if I'll run the lines around the pan or down the middle underneath.... Anybody have a recommendation?
matberry ·
Are you going to bench run your old setup to see what's happening?
Guess you probably feel like just chucking it in the bin 😀
humpty ·
Yeah I'll do that first Matt.... Think its a good idea.... Not sure what I'll do about the Malpassi though.... The pressed in fittings on that are very small.... Like 8mm id small.... Nick suggests 1/2".... Do later Malpassi's have larger fittings?
Fun and games.....
Boostn ·
just run an adapter from 1/2'' to 8mm.
it's only a return, the point is that you want NO restriction before or after the malpassie so that it does not mess with your pressure or flow.
I think Mike from the US said he uses 1/2 too?
humpty ·
All ripped out..... Bench tested the components.... Pump only produces 6psi max.... So will purchase a new one on Monday from my local Holley Wholesaler.... Need to get some new fuel line on Monday too, as well as some suitable method of mounting it all.... Found a neat spot up front for the filter too.... On the back of the beam, clamped to the upper torsion tube.... Safe from debris, easy to service and short lines.... Not happy with my tank outlet either.... Open to suggestions on alternatives there if you got'em?
matberry ·
Nice to find a problem with the pump.
For the tank outlet, you can carefully cut a 3/8 BSP thread directly into the stock ally nut, minimal thread but using some sealer on assembly has been no problem on my car. Screw in a tail fitting of whatever flex size your using and your away. Of course there is a nut made for the job from the states.
humpty ·
Yeah I have one of those mega pricey numbers from CB for my EFI bus conversion.... http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1451 But its a little on the small side.... The current return got to the top of the tank... But kinda thinking the 'T' style fitting is cool.... I know Marty Staggs also makes those gnatty aluminum AN fittings too..... Any clue what the thread is on the bottom of the tank?.... The idea of cutting a thread into the OEM female cap freaks me a little.... Just not very thick material.... I have thought about tapping a thread directly into the tank outlet and turning a 'T' directly into that.... I reckon a 3/8" BSP would go straight in there also....
reub ·
Great to chat Simon... You'll get there with it. Maybe a break is due?? 👍
humpty ·
Always good to have a chat Reub.... Sometimes a little banter and a debrief can work wonders.... And a laugh about stupid shit can really set you in a good mood.... I had a couple of beers with my bro and my neighbor after talking to you.... I now have renewed enthusiasm for the car... Can't get 1/2" bundy tube, so have decided to go with copper.... Possibly a little heavier, but I can source it tomorrow and get it done.... Might even make the track on Wednesday night!
A good mate owns this car.....
And we've been itching for a little grudge action.... 😁
dragvw2180 ·
I do run 1/2 " line but I believe 3/8 line is plenty. Look at what it takes to run a small block Chevy fuel wise and compare that to your setup. My carb came set up for one and it was VERY close jetting wise and they only run 3/8ths line. I run my filter after the pump just like most car manufacturers do.The fuel pumps we use are weak on the suction side and can only pull so hard so any restriction to flow on the inlet side is not good, but they can push fuel for miles. Fuel pumps put out trash as they run also, so filtering everything before it enters the regulator is critical. One small piece of trash in a regulator or carb will cause big problems, not saying what I do is better, just what I have. I think flowing your fuel system outside the car was a great idea Humpty, keep up the good work. Mike
humpty ·
Been doing the numbers.... This freaking stinky carb shite has swollowed a heap of coin.... And now it seems more needs to be spent on fuel pumps to make it work.... Seems the Holley Blue's are not really up to the task and don't last very long.... This one I have has lasted only about a week of actual road use... Feel like I'm chasing my tail....
So the other option is EFI.... I have most of the stuff here to make it happen.... Not the gear I bought for the bus project, but another lot of MS stuff I bought for the Bug ages ago....
All I need is some efi end castings, injectors and fuel rails to make it happen.... The 3/8" fuel lines that are in the car will work perfectly. I have a 044 pump, the filters I have are fine for the job, the tank is already to go... Only needs to make an intake manifold for the Ford Falcon TB....
Am I mad or is this the best possible course of action?
matberry ·
Holy Moley ?@#%&#@@*$#🤪🤪🤪🤪❓❗😉🙄😍📝🙅🥷😠🙂🥲❗🤪
In other words, it up to you, are you a quiter?.......ooooh sorry if that was harsh Simon, I know money doesn't grow on trees and you've put heaps of effort into this already. For what its worth, I've never been a fan of Holley fuel pumps, but I've never had a carb'd turbo engine either.
humpty ·
Had always planned on going efi eventually anyway.... But this pump problem is pissing me off....
I can get this one locally for just under 400.... Or obviously there is the ebay option....
But I'm looking at other options....
Got a couple of mates that like and use the Carter pumps.... They are very quiet, seem reliable and loads cheaper than the Holley....
I have no intention of quitting..... Gonna keep looking around....
dragvw2180 ·
I hate that you are having so much trouble also, since you have the Holley why not pull the cover off the pump and see if the vanes are sticking? It may be as simple as pulling the cover off, removing the vanes and reassembling it. They do offer a pump rebuild kit, I believe it comes with the vanes and gaskets. I do know how you feel, I chased a missfire in my car for a whole season. Matter of fact I will take my spare apart and look at it, there cannot be much inside it, Mike
matberry ·
Mmmmm
The Carter on my car looks about 20years old, came with a donated body and has been fine, but I'm shy of 140rwhp.
There has to be better options than $400 Holley, btw it does look nice. How much power do you make?
humpty ·
I've had the pump apart Mike.... It all looked fine.... A little crap in there but nothing too bad... I was thinking that possibly I had a power issue.... In that the pump was not getting full voltage.... But that checks out.... The feed from the battery is aok and the relay is switching as it should... The actual power wire to the pump is a little light in my book, but the gauge from the relay is the same as on the pump.... Thought possibly the earth was dodgy, but that looks clean too.... Pump just isn't making pressure.... I'm sure I had heaps of pressure a while back.... That's when I called my local Holley Wholesaler and he said that the pumps aren't much chop.... Prone to failure if used for prolonged periods.... But that could be a sales pitch.... As for power it makes..... No clue.... In NA form the engine made an estimated 120hp at the FW.... High 14's say that's pretty close.... Its got loads more, everywhere now.... Pulls like my brothers STi powered Notchback.....
Looking forward to a little dyno action once this fuel thing is sorted....
Boostn ·
matberry wrote:Mmmmm
The Carter on my car looks about 20years old, came with a donated body and has been fine, but I'm shy of 140rwhp.
There has to be better options than $400 Holley, btw it does look nice. How much power do you make?
Yep Buy a Black Carter. Get it sorted, it will be worth it.
BUT efi rocks! HA!
humpty ·
EFI is still on the cards, but I want to get some runs on the board before I take that next step.... Gonna attempt to source a Carter Black here in Perth tomorrow....
matberry ·
So your not making 25+ lb of boost so IMO it can't be fuel line size.....I like the thinking with voltage, the definitive check is with a voltmeter at the pump connections with the fuel pump on and under load (should really be in situ with the car running too) so you can measure real voltage during use. I'd be happy with anything over 12V. Remember.... measure voltage at the pump.
humpty ·
Nah.... Limited to 7.5 currently.... Now that I know what 7.5 feels like, I can only imagine what 25 is like...... Must be insane!!! 😀
Boostn ·
The fuel size becomes a problem later when you up the boost. It is not that the size needs to be that big for the engine, more so that the pumps aren't that good and need help to get to carbie quickly. The needle valve is also another major restriction. If it was a Holley 750 on the car this would all not be a problem. This is why we used to run the large filter before the pump[also acted like a surge tank holding 500ml or so] then no restriction until the needle valve. The only reg was on the return side and was boost sensitive. You might be able to run the smaller line but we always ran 1/2'' and never had problems. You do not want to ever run a reg in front of the carbie to restrict to pressure because that will kill your engine later. All I'm saying is to set it up now rather than having lean problems later when you up the boost. This setup we used in 1996 and went 11.23 @124 without flooding issues.
matberry ·
I wasn't knocking your recommendations at all Nick, just attempting to isolate where the actual problem is. I agree with your princilples above and I also set up bigger rather than smaller in the fuel supply, it certainly doesn't hurt.
Boostn ·
matberry wrote:I wasn't knocking your recommendations at all Nick, just attempting to isolate where the actual problem is. I agree with your princilples above and I also set up bigger rather than smaller in the fuel supply, it certainly doesn't hurt.
Hey Mat, it's all good.
The more input the better!
i just want Simon to get this thing going. I remember those days, there was no internet for us😬
humpty ·
I really appreciate all the help I've had with this car... And of course all comments are welcome here.... Advise given freely is an awesome thing.... What the reader takes from that is up to them.... I've not followed everything Nick has said at times, and that may or may not have been a good move.... But the proof is in the pudding as they say.... I know this car to be a strong runner.... Even for such a little engine, it pulls like a train.... But I am keeping it conservative at the moment as the engine is not the ideal turbo base.... That comes next.....
Speaking of which.... I'm picking up my stroker bits from the engineers tomorrow morning.... 😵
As for this one.... Scored the Carter Black pump.... Off to pick that up tomorrow morning also.... Plan to have it going again tomorrow arvo.... If all goes to plan, I'll be at the track tomorrow night....
Here's hopin'!
Stanley ·
Hang in there Simon. All this will be a distant memory the first time you stab the gas and it throws you back in the seat.
and for what it's worth I run a Carter too.
humpty ·
Cheers for the words of support Andrew.... Picked up the stroker bits this morning.... Woooohooo!!!!!!
Just got back in from picking up the new pump and also got a larger tank outlet.... Will fit all that and the 1/2" lines over the next few days....
Really hoping this new pump works a little better than the last.... If it actually has the pressure as advertised, I'll prolly be back to having too much pressure and a Malpassie that can't cope....
And the pressure is off for the drags tonight.... My "arch nemesis" is otherwise engaged this eve.... Early in the new year is penciled in....
humpty ·
Got some new Speedflow fittings for the tank from Go-Gear.... Got the filter mounted with new 1/2" fittings, got new 1/2" solid fuel lines run, made a new mount for the Malpassi FPR, need to fit the new pump, get some more 1/2" soft line and some clamps and larger fittings for the carb, and some sort of line reducer for the FPR inlet and outlet....
Gonna hopefully fit the larger tank outlet tomorrow, but I'm a little unsure how to do it safely..... I need to cut the OEM outlet off, enlarge the hole, then fit the Speedflow fitting.... My problem is the gas fumes in the tank.... If I filled the tank with water and turned it upside down, do you think it will be safe to cut the OEM outlet off (with a hacksaw) and grind the hole larger with a dremel?
Boostn ·
Yep fill it with water upside down.
I then ignite it with a lighter so I don't get a surprise when I'm cutting or welding.
If you want, get a 60 mm or 75 mm exhaust tube by about 100 mm long and drill some holes in the side.
Weld a base onto it, mount the fitting onto it. Cut a hole wide enough in the bottom of the tank and weld it in.
An instant internal surge tank. But make sure there is a hole or two at the bottom so you don't need 10 L in the tank before you get fuel at the pick up.
Also seeing as your welding, weld a 1/2'' steel tube from the bottom going upwards stopping short a few cm from the top of the tank. You can use this as a return so it looks cleaner on top.
Have fun and don't burn those knuckle hairs.
humpty ·
Backend is all but done...... So the front is getting a look at.... Pump is in, looking to find a tank sock for the fuel feed..... Was also thinking about doing something along these lines..... Found these pics on Shoptalk...
Would it be a better idea to have the pot protruding into the tank too?
Also with a return as you suggest Nick..... With one change.... I have some 1/2" copper pipe left over from the fuel line install, so I thought I'd silver solder that to the threaded pipe bungs and weld those to the tank.... That way a regular threaded barb can be screwed straight in for both feed and return.... The return pipe (fitted in the OEM outlet pozzie) will also have a 180º bend at the top so the fuel can stream back into the tank.... Not sprinkler back in.
Gonna pick up the fittings and some exhaust pipe tomorrow and get started on it.... Will post some pics as I go.
humpty ·
Hey fellas....
It's upgrade time for the POS...... Decided the time has almost come to put the stroker together.... All the parts are in, the balance job is complete, the crankcase is sorted, the final details are being hammered out.... So the 'last' part of the puzzle needs to be handled....
A while back I picked up some CB Wedge Port heads off Serrano's just before the meltdown.... At the time I had the intention of building a NA stroker.... Going turbo with the engine now, with the intention of replacing the long suffering 1776, but have been thinking that the heads might be a little too much for such an engine....
The basics are all there.... 2276 in the conventional parlance.... WEB 86C cam, slipper skirt pistons, H Beams, yadda, yadda, yadda....
At this stage the current turbo (GT2560RS) and intake and exhaust systems (draw-through) that is on the POS will be the source of all the good times.... I know the turbo to be a little small, but an upspec'ed GT28 is in the works.... And there is a very real possibility of going efi sooner rather than later...
So I guess the question is.... The Wedgie's too much?.... Should I look at other options to help with velocity?... Ultra Mag Plus or something else?..... This car is a street car, but not a commuter.... It's not really a cruiser either.... It's a street car with drag racing intentions.....
Cheers for the forthcoming advise....
humpty ·
Also..... Just scored these of Rick Mortensen in Arizona....
richie webb ·
Another really interesting thread:-)
Just a couple of thoughts,1st 13 something afr under boost is way to lean,I like to see 11.9ish under boost on an aircooled engine,cylinders dont stay together for long if its leaner and you turn up the boost.
Also when you were driving it on the street and got on it,it started out good on the afr then went lean,are you sure its not just lean full stop? the richness you are seeing maybe the puddle of fuel sitting in the turbo housing getting sucked in and giving a false reading? I have seen that plenty of times before on drawthrough set ups.
Also not sure if you are still staying carb or not? if so the way to set up the fuel system is 2 regulators,one set at say 6 psi,then another nearer the carb that is boost referenced abd set at 1.5 psi at idle,then as you mke boost the regulator pressure goes up to keep the float bowl full,but only to 6psi as the 2nd regulator prevents it from going any higher,if you just set 1 reg up with 1/1 ratio boost reference it will go as high as the pump allows and flood the engine.
If you are thinking of going efi later then set the fuel system up with that in mind now,2 fuel lines,I like -8 feed and -6 return and EFI fuel pump& filter[the efi filter works properly on a return style system as it constantly filters the fuel] ,then just regulate the fuel pressure down from there,you know you wont ever run out fo fuel this way.
Hope this helps,good luck with it:-)
cheers richie,uk
humpty ·
Hey Richie..... Appreciate your advise with this one.... The system of which you speak has been attempted earlier in the piece.... At the time I couldn't make it work.... Thinking back, it more than likely could have been more of an issue with the crap quality pump I was running.... Sticking with the carb early on in this project, was more down to the local nostalgic street class I was planning to run in.... The organisers of which allowed me to run the BB turbo and the EDIS/Megajolt ignition, but stipulated no EFI..... Though for me personally, the idea of eventually going EFI has always been on the cards... Hence the return loop fuel system that has been installed in the car.... Now that I have sourced those manifolds of Rick, the likely hood of me going to EFI with the stroker engine is greater.... Though I still want to get the carb working on the 1776....
Back to that.... The fuel system upgrade is nearing completion... The hard lines are in, and most of the engine bay plumbing is complete... Just need to get onto the tank.... Unfortunately I'm waiting on my local hose fitting supplier to come back from holidays in the new year....
So in the meantime.... Disc brakes for the front are going on.... Suppose the extra stopping power is a good thing.... 😉
Hope you all have had a good festive season thus far.
humpty ·
They've arrived!!!!
Look at the quality of the welds and the porting?... They've also been sleeved in the manifold stud area.... Shame I need to match them to my Wedgies!!!!
Also.... Have finally figured out the fuel system on the POS.... All done, save for the tank.... Which I will do today.... Not gonna do the swirl pot thing just yet.... To do it right, I need to spend a little and I just can't do that right now.... I'll do the swirl pot upgrade once I have the tax man off my back, and I can get the final few bits pulled together, and my TIG dude can do what's needed, and when the EFI goes into the car... So I'm just improving what I had before.... It worked so why mess with it....
Changes I will make are straight forward.... Make both the feed and return 1/2".... Make the feed outlet a little taller (into the tank) and longer on the barb end.... And fit a better quality pre-filter.....
I'll get some more pics of the tank upgrades later today....
humpty ·
Here's the latest.....
Got it all back together.... 1/2" all the way.... The only places that are not 1/2" are the inlet and return of the Malpassi and the inlet to the carb....
Tried to get it started this evening..... No go.....
The pressure gauge (which is mounted on the carb inlet) is reading plenty of pressure. Pulled the line to the gauge and ran an extension to a gerry can.... It's flowing plenty..... Pulled the top off the carb.... Float bowl is almost totally dry?.... Jets are dry too.... Blew through the ball'n'seat.... Working fine..... Checked the float level.... Perfect at 10mm....
Any ideas?
Also.... While I have your attention....
These are the inlet in the carb top.... Tiny lil' things aren't they?.... Can I drill them out at all?..... And do you think I should continue to run the small filter that is in there also?
humpty ·
Anyway..... Drilled out the inlets on the carb (on advise from Shagg in the US), got the dremel in there and smoothed everything out... Nice smooth pathway for the fuel to travel now.... Pulled the filter screen also.
Couldn't figure out the problem with the fuel not getting in.... So I fitted a hose to the carby inlet whilst is was fitted to the carb body.... Attempted to blow into the carb.... Nothing doing.... The ball'n'seat was work perfectly..... A little too perfectly..... The problem is obvious.... The float level is wrong.... Maybe I've been setting it wrong all this time, but have just been right enough to work in the past..... So with the wonderful world wide web at hand, I found a reference to setting the float that said the top plate of the carb must be vertical.... With the ball'n'seat at the top most point and the floats hanging downward..... I had been checking it with the top cover upside down and horizontal.... Idiot!
Corrected the level and bolted it all back on.... Power up.... Right away I could hear the difference in the fuel pump and hear the fuel flooding into the float bowl.... Couple of twists of the butterflies and the squirters are working perfectly.... Turn the key and she fired right up... 2psi at idle.... Perfect.
Sorted.... Off for a spin around the block this arvo....
dangerous ·
well?
humpty ·
dangerous wrote:well?
3000rpm.... The it falls on its face..... Not stopping dead like before, but power killing stutter.... A few times I managed a glance at the O2 gauge and notice the afr to be very rich at this moment.... Like in the 9's rich.... Idle is hard to control too.... Either too fast or almost stopping.... No happy medium....
I put the 45 idles back in (55's in there before) and that cleaned up the low speed control cruising issues....
But the 'falling on its face' thing is doing my head in..... I still think it's getting too much fuel under boost..... I can rev it beyond 3k in the shed.... No problem.... I can even creep up on the rpm and motor past 3k.... It's just at WOT that it all goes pear shaped....
Gonna pull the boost reference line from the Malpassi and give another shot..... Right after dinner.... The reason I reckon this might be the issue is before when I ran a conventional FPR it ran fine.... All the time.... Now I have better control of the pressure, I reckon boosted fuel pressure is killing spark.... We've been here before I know, but not with solid fuel pressure....
Here goes!
humpty ·
Nup.... That didn't work.
humpty ·
richie webb wrote:... the way to set up the fuel system is 2 regulators,one set at say 6 psi,then another nearer the carb that is boost referenced and set at 1.5 psi at idle,then as you mke boost the regulator pressure goes up to keep the float bowl full,but only to 6psi as the 2nd regulator prevents it from going any higher,if you just set 1 reg up with 1/1 ratio boost reference it will go as high as the pump allows and flood the engine.
I know Nick thinks otherwise, but this setup has been mentioned in the past and I have attempted it.... It kinda worked too..... But it was around that time I think the pump started to fail.... Which was prolly the cause of all the problems I was having earlier on.... Should I try it again?
matberry ·
I would have thought , yes Richie's sounds good, but I can't talk from any of my experience. Thanks for the updates. Can't believe you haven't had a full boost pass without issues yet......but it must be very soon....keep up the good work 👍 and most of all....keep smiling, it's gonna be FUN !!! 🙂
Stanley ·
Hang in there Simon. All the hard work is done. Sounds like some tuning to be done, but I know this can be a cause for frustration. It'll be worth it when it's sorted though
humpty ·
The more I think about it, the more I feel the 'breaking down' issue to be ignition related.... Infact.... It's prolly as simple as bad earth or a dry solder.... I'll pull the ignition harness this arvo and run a meter over the whole lot....
I know this car goes hard.... It ran perfectly for months before the yellow sticker....... I just wish I could find the reason for the power failure under load..... Thanks for the support fellas.
matberry ·
Speaking electrical, you mentioned earth's but also check supply connections, and not just with a digital multimeter, they will confuse the best. Good luck.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Start at the source - battery terminals then work forward from there. I know it sounds amateurish but I'm not the only one who has been caught out by something so simple.....
Persevere mate! You'll find it. If not get a fresh pair of eyes on it!!
dangerous ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:Start at the source - battery terminals then work forward from there. I know it sounds amateurish but I'm not the only one who has been caught out by something so simple.....
Persevere mate! You'll find it. If not get a fresh pair of eyes on it!!
So true.
But once you have the electrics checked,
remember that 90% of ignition troubles are fuel system troubles.
humpty ·
dangerous wrote:
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:Start at the source - battery terminals then work forward from there. I know it sounds amateurish but I'm not the only one who has been caught out by something so simple.....
Persevere mate! You'll find it. If not get a fresh pair of eyes on it!!
So true.
But once you have the electrics checked,
remember that 90% of ignition troubles are fuel system troubles.
Oh don't start that again Dave!!!! 😂
humpty ·
Found a bad plug lead.... Resistance too high.... Got some new MSD parts and 3mtr of 8.5mm MSD lead and made a new set.... Looks pretty..... Didn't fix the issue.... In fact... It seems to be running worse.... Goes crazy rich under load now.... Like.... Into the 9's!!!!.... It's over fueling something shocking.... Idle is a little erratic too.... From lean to rich, fast to almost dead.... Fuel pressure is solid.... Whether I have boost reference of not....
Time to pull the carb down again and see what's up.... EFI is looking better all the time!
Got another 24hrs on this permit.... The fun never stops....
SuperOwen ·
Probably not the issue but have a good look at your edis coil, spec it out with a multimeter but also look for physical signs of overheating etc. The one I got from boost engineering is in the bin already.
Other than that have you double checked for manifold leaks etc? Hopefully you find dead insect in the carb or something else simple!
humpty ·
Interesting idea...... I haven't changed out the coil..... I have a brand new coil sitting in a box for another project, but can you tell me how I can check the coil that's in there?.... I have never attempted such a thing....
SuperOwen ·
with the coil unplugged just use your multimeter to check the resistance of each primary and secondary. From memory its about 12k across the secondary and .6 across the primary but dont quote me. Also check for any continuity to ground from either side(bad), you have a new unit there so if in doubt compare obviously.
As for signs of overheating, on other coil packs Ive seen the epoxy the coils are set in start to look a bit cooked and sometimes even the plastic casing, never a good sign! The plug on my coil broke when I breathed on it as well so have a good look for cracks etc around there as well.
Or just throw the new coil on and take it for a run around the block!😁
humpty ·
Cheers for that.... I'll certainly give that a shot..... Got a few other things to check today also.... I want to make sure the fuel gauge is accurate.... Gonna attempt to set the pressure at the needle and seat as Hermann recommends... ie: no gauge at all.... Start the pump, adjust the flow until the needle and seat are over powered, then roll the adjuster back until it stops... Seems a little grassroots to me, but that's how he does it and it has worked for him!.... He also suggested I should be running the same size air correctors as mains.... Crazy I know, but again, the proof is in the pudding so they say.... I'll give almost anything a shot.... 😵💫
SuperOwen ·
So much for draw through being the simple and cheap option!!!😂
humpty ·
The thing is.... It was for me initially... This car ran very well for the first 8 months.... I'm sure the issue is something simple and stupid.... Back to the drawing board....
Boostn ·
try raising the float level 1mm at a time
humpty ·
I pulled the Malpassi, went back to a deadhead holley reg and its all fixed.... Makes power again.... No breaking down, no going lean, then rich, then lean....?????
dangerous ·
dangerous wrote:So true.
But once you have the electrics checked,
remember that 90% of ignition troubles are fuel system troubles.
😬 😂
humpty ·
Next up..... Air cleaner options...
I've been running "Finer Filter" socks on my DCOE for a while now and I have noticed that engine runs very rich with them on....
Not too bad if they are clean, but they get grotty very quickly.... Looking for other options.... I have run the conventional 'K&N' style filters on my NA engines for years, but there isn't a lot of room in under the lit with the DCOE.... So I'm looking at other options....
Found these.... Which look cool, but I'm unsure how effective they would be....
Does anyone know if they actually have a filter element of any kind in there, or is it just a mesh screen?
dangerous ·
No filter, and extremely restrictive.
Probably not as restrictive as your dirty finerfilters though
matberry ·
^^^ Yep, if there was any filter element in there, it would have next to no surface area and would be sooooo restrictive. Without an element they also look restrictive but would keep out large rocks and birds 😂😂.
Yeah.... The needle and seat decided that 5psi was too much to handle.... Figured I needed an FPR that could handle the efi pressures that are in the POS' future, and I needed something to make it happen now.... Apparently this FPR can handle high pressure/high volume pumps and carby/efi setups.... Killed two birds with one stone so to speak.
"A dual purpose, universal regulator for EFI or Carbureted and street or strip applications. Base pressure adjustable from 3 to 20 PSI with standard spring, (installed) or from 20 to 60 PSI with high pressure spring (included). Offers the full flow and rock steady fuel pressure that only a dynamic, Aeromotive bypass regulator provides. • Capable of regulating any fuel pump between 100 and 250 GPH. • Fuel pressure rises on a 1:1 ratio when referencing boost. • All ports are 3/8” NPT, with one inlet and three outlets on the main body and one return port on the bottom. • Bypass design provides the ultimate, dynamic fuel pressure control."
66brm ·
Did you end up trying Hermans idea with setting the pressure?, Hopefully this reg will do the trick
humpty ·
66brm wrote:Did you end up trying Hermans idea with setting the pressure?, Hopefully this reg will do the trick
Yep.... Didn't work.... I'm hoping so too.... If not, the stroker and efi is next....
66brm ·
humpty wrote:
66brm wrote:Did you end up trying Hermans idea with setting the pressure?, Hopefully this reg will do the trick
Yep.... Didn't work.... I'm hoping so too.... If not, the stroker and efi is next....
Good you can finally throw that hair dryer away😂
fast68 ·
humpty wrote:Next up..... Air cleaner options...
I've been running "Finer Filter" socks on my DCOE for a while now and I have noticed that engine runs very rich with them on....
Not too bad if they are clean, but they get grotty very quickly.... Looking for other options.... I have run the conventional 'K&N' style filters on my NA engines for years, but there isn't a lot of room in under the lit with the DCOE.... So I'm looking at other options....
Found these.... Which look cool, but I'm unsure how effective they would be....
Does anyone know if they actually have a filter element of any kind in there, or is it just a mesh screen?
Run the Bills b racing fillers on my 2276 with IDA's, when we dynoed the engine they absolutley no difference to the HP. and the meshing on them is very fine.
humpty ·
66brm wrote:
humpty wrote:
66brm wrote:Did you end up trying Hermans idea with setting the pressure?, Hopefully this reg will do the trick
Yep.... Didn't work.... I'm hoping so too.... If not, the stroker and efi is next....
Good you can finally throw that hair dryer away😂
Eeerrmmmm no.... The 'hair dryer' is staying.... Nothing like excess hey? 😂
66brm ·
Glutton for punishment😂
humpty ·
66brm wrote:Glutton for punishment😂
You need to come for a spin Andrew.... Once you've been blown, you'll never take it any other way!
😂
humpty ·
Finally gave up on the FPR from the US ever arriving.... The seller is attempting to get a refund sorted for me via the postal insurance.... I don't hold out much hope....
So I went down to my local V8 performance shop and ordered the 13301 FPR..... It took 2 days to arrive and only cost me 40 bux more than the US one..... But since I'm still out of pocket on the US one, I'm in the hole on this project in a major way.....
Racing aint cheap!
So here it is.....
Started fitting it up this arvo.... Just need to finish off the mount for it and she's good to go.... Will fire it up tomorrow.
Also.... A mate directed me to these pics from the last attempt at racing.... The car looked good I guess and apparently launched pretty hard.... But as you all know, it didn't go....
My bro's BD looked pretty good too and managed to get high 17's I think!!! 😂
matberry ·
Nice pics mate 👍👍
mmmmmmmmmmm bro's barny🙂🙂🙂🙂
FROSTY ·
I love the bugs stance too!!!!
humpty ·
Thanks fellas.... We always get a lot of positive comments when we hit the drags.... Just wish we could more Dubbers out there racing.... Nostalgia's are coming up on the 26th.... Hope to get out there for that.... Might try for a Whoopass Wednesday Night before then.... Here's hoping.
humpty ·
Just finished fabing and fitting the FPR.... Turned the key, checked for pressure and leaks.... No leaks spotted and pressure turned down to 2.5psi with ease..... Then fired up the beast..... She goes!..... Pressure is rock solid, AFR's are a little erratic, jetting needs some work.... Still waiting on some more weber gear to arrive from Queensland.... Need to organise a permit to drive for next weekend, then its time for a little road tuning.... Only option I have really.... No one here in Perth knows anything about dyno tuning carb'ed engines let alone turbo'd VW's!
reub ·
whoo bloody hoo dude!
So, drags next Wednesday night then? I might be down...👍
humpty ·
Drags in two weeks hopefully... You really coming down for a visit?
matberry ·
This time buddy......😁😁😁👍👍👍
humpty ·
Did some more work on the ignition last night.... Noticed the sensor and timing wheel relationship didn't look right.... It was out of whack for some reason.... Also made a couple of minor changes.... moved the wheel further away from the BERG pulley, and spaced out the sensor accordingly.... Also re-routed the sensor wiring away from the alt base and the other ignition leads.... Right away the car started better and idled nicely at 1000rpm... Hasn't managed that in 18months of fiddling!!!!!
So I took the car to the track today.... The Nostalgia drags were on and I wasn't gonna miss this year!
The car started real nice this morning before I loaded it on the trailer... Real sweet and crisp.... Idled nicely.... Just like last night....
Got it to the track and it started to run poorly again.... Draw-through turbo engines don't like idling much.... They tend to kill spark plugs... Changed out the plugs as I felt this was the problem.... Was correct in this thinking.... Right on start up the car ran very nicely.... Took it for a blat....
Got held up at the staging as a car from the previous run had a failure..... The POS began run rough from idling too long..... Gave it a lung full... Cleaned it out.... Staged against a mate in a IDA fed 2276 Oval.... Tore out of the gate (easy 4000rpm launch).... Had him for the first 100 or so, then my car began to stall at higher rpm, just as boost began to rise.... Then my mate flew past me and posted an awesome 13.5.... Me.... 15.9. :cry:
So I had a theory.... I reckon the POS is running out of fuel as boost builds.... Noticed the O2 gauge reading very lean at the moment of stalling.... I figured that if I ran a larger main, the car should stall sooner.... Back in the pit I fit a full step larger main to test my theory.... It worked... The car ran nicely once more (better even!) out of the gate, but broke down earlier.... I reckon the float bowl is being sucked dry by the turbo.... I need to run a boost referenced FPR to sort this issue (my Aeromotive FPR has this facility built in).... I reckon that's the fix for this issue.... Everything else went very well.... My shakedown passes are finally telling me I'm heading in the right direction.... Car launches well, goes straight.
So that's next then?.... Setup the O2 to data log with my ignition, setup the FPR to boost reference, then its back to the track.
Stanley ·
Top stuff Simon. Glad to see things are finally starting to go your way....👍
matberry ·
👍
😁 sounds like your onto it mate, glad you kept trying to understand what's going wrong, now we all have a VW turbo specialist to ask for advice 🙂.
humpty ·
Cheers guys..... Finally happy with the car and the potential it has..... Next few weeks will be a little busy....
humpty ·
Some pics from the Nostalgia's...
A big "Bernie out"....
Back to the VWs, this beauty pulled a 10.11...
At the Pitts..........
Bernie was having his engine "Chipped" to try improve his run times...
At the track Paul was smashin it...
And Both were burnin it!.....Wicked.
It was a white wash by Paul....Well done man...
matberry ·
Fantastic photo's Simon. Thanks for posting.
How cool is the pic with the 2 streeters frying the tyres 👍👍👍, and as for chipping for more hp, do tell more, where do you put them and how many??? I like fast cars and chips 🙂.
As for Mr 10.1.......why don't we know more about this fella??????
Holy crap dude, you have some explaining to do........
Dak-A-Tak ·
Mr 10.1 is a v8 matt !
Good pics but no times fellows .
66brm ·
Well done Simon, good to see it make a couple of passes at least, Pauls 13.3 was awesome too. T&t wednesday night? Get that boost reference sorted and we'll see a full pass on the go pedal with out the die in the ass at 1/2-3/4 track.
humpty ·
I spose clocking a 15 with only half track power isn't too bad...
A bit busy this week though.... Got heaps of marking to do, and have Parent-Teacher Night tomorrow night.... So looking forward to chatting to some of the parents about they're little treasures!
Maybe next week....
And as Pete said.... That 10 second Bug is a V8 powered thing.... So of course I had to tell him about some out east coast Dubbers efforts..... But it's not a bad bit of kit from those guys.... I grew up with them, so it's kinda funny how they have a VW in they're workshop these days.... They use to give me flack for rolling Dubs way back in the day....
Full circle hey?😂
humpty ·
Worked a little on the car today..... Thought I'd try a difference setup with the emulsion tubes.... Besides the turbo tapered F2's I had in the carb at the track, I only have F2's and F7's, so I thought I'd try those.... Fitted the F7's with 165 mains and the 180 airs.... Right away the cars idle was a little patchy.... Hard to get a nice constant idle.... Fitted the 45F8 idles in there to try and clean it up... The engine began to really lope.... Adjusted the mixture screws a little more... 1.5 turns out seem to tidy it up.... Still not perfect.... Fitted some 50F8's.... A little rich now..... Hmmm..... Fitted the reference port up.... 'T'ed off the waste gate line.... Fuel pressure dropped a heap... Adjusted it up and managed to get a reasonable pressure, though not constant at idle... As the idle moves around (too rich and afr's from rich to lean), the pressure does also.... As engine speed drops, gauge goes to low vacuum, the pressure drops too low, as idle lifts, pressure does also....
Think I need to try a check valve in the reference line.... Hopefully by doing this, the pressure will be more constant and I will then be able to get the jetting a little better....
Fun times....
humpty ·
Update time......
Drag season is officially over here in WA.... Time to pull the POS down for a freshen up.... The engine comes out in the next few weeks, to be converted back to NA duty.... It will be fitted to the T34.... Which is going over the pits (rego) asap.
The reason for all this is simple.... I found it very hard to get a handle on the tune without the car being roadworthy.... So the POS is getting a separation order lodged.... The body needs new heater channels, the pan will get a lick of paint, and the two will be reunited once more.... On goes the BRM's and then it's time for rego.... Then work will begin on the new setup.... A new 2276 is currently going together which will be fitted to the POS.... But with a difference.... It's going get a little blow through EFI lovin'..... Had enough of the DCOE.
mactaylor ·
good call, I think you wont look back with efi. PS i hate the maroons!
humpty ·
Nearly got the new body sorted for the car..... Hopefully have it ready for pain by next school holidays.....
Then its time for the tear down of the old body and pan prep can start....
Also..... Assembly of the longblock will be starting soon..... One last change to the whole shebang....
😉
humpty ·
Cylinders fell through.... New body is getting some extra nicel lovin' and the 1776 is getting a 500cfm Holley 2bl to replace the DCOE.....
Here we go again!😂
humpty ·
Just arrived today..... 😀😀
Time to start fabricating.... Just need to snag a little of that pressure hose, fabricate a suitable carb support bracket, new engine cover standoffs and I think I have a cool idea for the aircleaner issue.... Stolen from Nick's Junka!
Still waiting for the Percys Adjust-a-jet bit too, but I can work around that....
turboboy ·
Howdy Simon
you didn't go for the AJ's carb setup any reason
Just waiting for Peter to finish some other motors before he gets to mine🙂. I hate waiting LOL
humpty ·
Don't much like his attitude.... I asked him a few simple questions about his carb kits, all I got was very abrupt replies....
So I did a little research and found I could build my own for far less than he's asking for his kit.... So far I have less than 350 bux in this lot.... Chuck in a little TIG work and I'll be rolling...
Stanley ·
stop talking about it and get it done....😂
humpty ·
Hahahahhahha...... Funny guy!
In the shed on Saturday I go....
venFun10 ·
humpty wrote:Don't much like his attitude.... I asked him a few simple questions about his carb kits, all I got was very abrupt replies....
hey mate you are not the first person to say that
he has a bad attitude and the funny thing is that he is very low on the list of vw gurus back home
Boostn ·
Hey Simon,
Have you given up on the 45?
AJ vids on youtube are not impressive.
humpty ·
Yep..... Just couldn't get it to work consistently.... With no local knowledge, rare and expensive parts and finicky tune, after two years fiddling with the thing I just got jack of it.... To be honest, I reckon the carb is just too big for my little engine and possibly too modified to boot!
So as an interim (before the stroker and efi go in the new body), I thought I give this a shot....
humpty ·
Ok.... So now I got my 500 Holley in bits.... Fitted the smallest PV I could find (3.5), the Adjust-a-jet is here now, and the boost referencing mods are about to happen, but still I have questions....
Can anyone tell me what all these ports (the large one at the top and the two smaller ones on the lower right) are for in the base plate are for?
humpty ·
Got back in the shed this morning..... So started on the new intake for the Holley....
But first I needed to pull this....
Then I bolted this on in it's place....
Followed by this.....
And this...
Which needed some trimming.... And shortening...
Which got me to this....
Happy with that lot so it's off the TIG dude for a little fettle....
Then I started on the new breather/catchcan setup....
It's kinda cool and a little odd..... Just the way I like it! 😀
humpty ·
I just want to make this very clear to you all...... I know absolutely nothing about Holleys!.... Ask me about Dellortos and I can bore you to tears on those babys, but Holleys are a total unknown.....
Now for my questions.... Is there any reason why I can't use the stock vacuum port as the signal port for the Power Valve (PV) boost sensing mod?
I think I might be able to get in there and redirect the gallery into the PV chamber, but would this possibly have a disastrous effect on some other function within the carb?
As a side note for those that are better informed than I.... My carb is marked with a 4412-S model number.... Does that mean its suitable to be used on a blown engine, and this port I am contemplating using is in fact the OEM method for boost sensing?
I looked into this but found boost referencing was more for street driven cars. I opted for the small power valve (2.5) and bigger jets (65) I just find I need to let it idle faster to account for the bigger jets.
if you go to ultimate aircooled and search on "boost referencing" there's heaps of good info and discussions. You'll soon learn there are almost as many different ways to do it as there are oppinions on it.
ask me again this time next week if i'm still happy with the holley....😀
humpty ·
Cheers again Andrew.... And best of luck next weekend!!!!!
ian.mezz ·
there was a 4 part series in the about 2006 dune buggiies & hot VWs about setting up a holley turbo engine , if you can find em.
humpty ·
Yeah I know about it.... Dave Kawell was the gentleman responsible.... Tough to find the issues.... But I think I might have it sorted.... Will get to it this weekend.... My TIG guy is MIA, so I've call Kim Ledger today to see if his guys can do it... So its off to them later in the week.
humpty ·
Boost referenced the 500cfm Holley today....
Needed to machine a slot where that black line is....
Used this....
And this...
To make this....
See that 'L' shaped gallery?
It lines up with the slot I cut in the carb body earlier...
Then I drilled a hole at the top most part of it....
Which lines up with the large hole that is cast in the side of the PV manifold...
Which was then tapped with 1/8 tapered tap....
So I could fit this....
Then I needed to drill, tap and seal these two galleries to reditrect the vacuum/boost signal....
Then I whacked it all back together....
Still need to fit the Adjust-a-jet and then we are done....
humpty ·
Made this document up for those that might be interested in doing the same thing! :wink: :wink:
It's based on some info I found on the web, but tidied up a bit so it's little easier to read and understand....
byronmcmanus59 ·
Man i wanted to use a holley or similar on my project till i saw this, that went in one ear and out the other.
What internals have you done with your engine, I basically want a bit more stick out of my basically standard 1600tp, any hints? I was originally going to use a SU then a side draft, then this but now i dont know 🙄
humpty ·
My engine is very far from stock.... But garden variety mild performance spec... Good for high 14's in NA form... No mods to speak of when I converted it to turbo.
A dbl holley will work fine on a stocker, though finding a manifold could be a problem..... A progressive dbl would be even better, and manifolds are available..... But if you want real go from your stocker, stick a turbo (T25 or similar) on it and blow through the stock carby would be my advise.... With minor tweaks you can make it happen.... You can even use the stock fuel pump, but it needs to be boost referenced... You could do the whole conversion for the less than the cost of a pair of reco'd heads!
😉
humpty ·
A good mate here in Perth told me about a mate of his who could do the TIG work for me.... Went to visit him tonight to chat about the project.... Low and behold, he got stuck into it straight away!
And this is the result....
While I was there I asked him if he'd like to weld up a breather for me too, and where might I source some off-cut ali.... He had what I needed right there, so this weekend I'll build the breather for the POS.... Awesome!
Great guy, beautiful work.... I'll be going back to see him with the breather next week for sure!
byronmcmanus59 ·
humpty wrote:My engine is very far from stock.... But garden variety mild performance spec... Good for high 14's in NA form... No mods to speak of when I converted it to turbo.
A dbl holley will work fine on a stocker, though finding a manifold could be a problem..... A progressive dbl would be even better, and manifolds are available..... But if you want real go from your stocker, stick a turbo (T25 or similar) on it and blow through the stock carby would be my advise.... With minor tweaks you can make it happen.... You can even use the stock fuel pump, but it needs to be boost referenced... You could do the whole conversion for the less than the cost of a pair of reco'd heads!
😉
Ah very good, i was hoping to do a draw through setup to start off just because i understand the theory a bit better, Im a sheety for i can make manifolds and what not.
What have you done to your engine roughly?
humpty ·
1776cc.... Shimo built (ie awesome!) semi-hemi'd heads with 40x35 valves, 7.5-1 comp, CW DMS Crank, 9lbs FW, Engle 120 cam, Dave Stoker lower pulley, EDIS/Megajolt ignition, all built back in the early 90's when I lived in Sydney and hung out at Hellbug.... Replaced the used crankcase shortly after returning to WA back in 94... Traveled across Oz 3 times with this engine, drag raced it (14.8 et), sprinted it, hill climbed it, autokhana'd it, loads of general commuting, estimate 200k kms since it was first built.... Replaced the rings and reco'd the heads (new exhaust valves, welded some small crack between the seats, replaced the seats, and a 3 angle cut) last year for the first time.... While the heads were getting some love they shaved the seating surface 40" so I could fit some copper head gaskets....
Cheers guys.... Getting excited about the car again is an awesome feeling..... I really wonna go racing.... Just hope the tune is not too elusive! 🤪🤪
humpty ·
Did some more this arvo.... Couldn't wait for the Adjust-a-jet to arrive, so bought one for half price from a local V8 performance shop.... While I was there, I picked up a couple of other parts to make it work better....
With the manifold all cleaned up...
The build up begins....
First I removed the float bowl and fitted the supplied accelerator pump lever...
Then fitted the accessory fuel pickups to the adjust-a-jet block....
Fitted the new gasket and the block of foam that comes in the kit...
Then the adjust-a-jet and the other gasket....
Then I fitted the fuel bowl, making sure the pump lever is aligned correctly...
The jet, o-ring and lock washer was next.... Making sure to no over tighten the jet in the seat...
Read somewhere that a good baseline setting for the jet was 2.25 turns out....
Then I bolted the whole lot up to the turbo.....
Looks good hey?
Next job was to fabricate some carb supports.... I used a tool I made a while back when I did the first build up of this turbo conversion....
It's designed to compress the end of the tube, so as to make it easier to drill out the mounting tab.... Just whack it into a vise and turn, turn, turn....
Works a treat!
Then I drilled a suitable hole....
After a little jiggery pokery I came up with two supports.... One to the base of the alt, the other to the firewall.... As this engine/transaxle is solid mounted I figured this should be fine....
Next job is to pull it all down, change out the OEM oil filler, fabricate my new breather catch can, then put it all back together.... With any luck I should have it running this weekend, and the new breather in the car by next weekend....
Then is time for a tune!!!! 😀
Stanley ·
I think you'll be surprised how easy they are to tune. I hope.
Especially with the adjust a jet.g
humpty ·
I hope so Andrew..... And all the best for the weekend!
Stanley ·
thanks man
humpty ·
Finished the linkage and linkage support today.... Looks very nice, and works really well....
The POS is ready to fire up.... Still haven't figured out what I'm gonna do with the engine cover, but have cut a very nice hole in it!!!
Still waiting on some parts to arrive from Classic VW.... It's been 3 weeks now!
matberry ·
Nice work Simon
👍👍
humpty ·
Cheers Matt.... Picked up a temporary aircleaner today..... It'll do for now.... Plan to fire it up later this week.... With video in hand...😁
Stanley ·
good luck Simon
matberry ·
humpty wrote:fire it up later this week.... With video in hand...😁
....are we there yet????
Keen to hear how she goes....
Stanley ·
Simon it's Thursday which is later in the week.....wtf is happening
I know you guys are behind in the western state but geez
humpty ·
Stanley wrote:Simon it's Thursday which is later in the week.....wtf is happening
I know you guys are behind in the western state but geez
Marking assignments and art folios..... Put an aircleaner on it last night if that's any help?
😘
humpty ·
Tried to start the POS last weekend.... After fighting a few minor issues with the new fuel fittings and lines.... All my mistakes and nothing to do with the parts....
Then tried to fire her up only to find I have a broken wire to the main ignition power.... Fixed that.... Turned her over..... Nothing.
No map signals on the PC at all as I turn the engine over.... ❓
Guess this is what happens when you leave a tuned car laying around for a year.....
Pulled the ecu and engine bay harness out of the car last Sunday.... Stripped all the wrapping off the wires and have started on testing the wires.... Re-did some of the harness to make it ezr to pull from the car in the future.... Once that was done I reconnected it all up this morning....
Hit the shed a couple of hours ago to finish the install then I was set...
On the first turn of the key and only after a couple of seconds of turning over, the POS came to life once more.... Set a little rich on the base jetting, the car settled to a fast idle (1500rpm) almost straight away.... AFR's are idling around 10-12 and under rev's going pig rich in the 9's!!!!!
The butterflies still have the OEM idle holes in them.... Some say the need to be closed to get the idle down, others say the need to be smaller.... Might have to experiment there....
But the great thing is.... It idles so smoothly (never did with the DCOE), is very light on the throttle and pulls rev's with ease.... Can't wait to get it on the road...
Way to go Humpty !!!! There is a formula for sizing the power valve, divide your engines vacuum reading by 2 = power valve size. Say you read 9" of vacuum at idle, your power valve should be 4.5. If you end up with an even number drop down to the next lower size, as an example 8" would come out to 4.0 power valve, which would force you to drop to a 3.5 valve. As a referance my 600 holley runs a 4.5 power valve. If you would like to read the article for yourself here is a link, hope this helps, Mike McCarthy
Wow Mike.... Have you seen me looking around the web trying to find this information these past few hours?.... That's exactly what I was looking for!!!....
I did find that Matt Davis mention on an old cal-look.com thread that a 1.5 would be the go for smaller engines....
Cheers for the heads-up.....
Simon
Stanley ·
finally.....i'll be able to sleep now.....😂
well done
whathaveidone ·
Nice work. came together really neat!!!! Almost makes me want to go out and buy a turbo🤪
SuperOwen ·
whathaveidone wrote:Nice work. came together really neat!!!! Almost makes me want to go out and buy a turbo🤪
Do it! Just "borrow" something from rod's cave. He won't notice 😀
humpty ·
Cheers fellas.....
dragvw2180 ·
Hey Simon,
If you cannot locate the parts you need send me an email and I will help. Mike
humpty ·
Cheers for the offer Mike..... Will keep your kind offer in mind...
A local V8 Performance shop I have been dealing with a for a while has come through with a #1PV.... Apparently 1.5's don't exist...
Anyway... The guys at the shop order the PV in from Melbourne yesterday for me... Will be here this arvo they said.
The intake is getting closer to completion...... This arrived today.....
Getting there.... 😂
Stanley ·
are you going to change to blow through?
humpty ·
Nah.... One day maybe, but most likely not with the Holley.... I have EFI for that.... I got this number in the hope it would give me more room to mount the engine cover closer to the body.... The current air cleaner props the engine cover out too much for my liking.... If it doesn't work out, it wont go to waste.... I know of a V8 powered Hotrod that might just get a little turbo charging.... 😉
ian.mezz ·
did you check and see if you are getting full throttle with the cable fitted there on carby.??
JVLRacing ·
very nice, a bit of thinkin outside that square😎
humpty ·
ian.mezz wrote:did you check and see if you are getting full throttle with the cable fitted there on carby.??
Oh yeah.... It works perfectly.... The cable runs straight and true, and the butterfly gets full rotation.... There is also plenty of adjustment at that end of the cable as I'm using the Subaru cable as an extension.... On the Holley there is a hole in that part of the lever already, so attaching the rose joint was a snack.... But building the rose joint and cable crimp out of kart parts worked out perfectly.... Parts are cheap, and very easy to source.... They have all sorts of cable connection devices at kart shops!
modnrod ·
Gday Simon.
Holley's work good mate, hey? Nothing wrong with a large blunt object instead of a rapier if it does it's job.
Not sure if you know, but the holes in the throttle blades are normally used to get MORE airflow at idle, so soldering the blade up will likely reduce the revs, and if it's too rich at idle then, jam a piece of 15Amp fuse wire in the idle feed circuitry in the metering block (you probably still have my email address if you have more questions).
Good to see the old girl running again. 👍
humpty ·
Thanks for the tips Dave.... Appreciate the help.... But the idea of soldering up the holes scare me a bit.... I'd hate for the solder to come loose and go through the turbo!!!!
But of course your more than welcome to swing by the Motorplex in the coming weeks to help with the tune.... I know nothing about these holley things, so any advise is most welcome 😉
modnrod ·
WOO!HOO! Tuning foir the track, sounds great man! I'd love to do it, but a bit going on, not even racing myself since the Westerns last year.
If it wasn't for the new bubs due next Thursday, and adding a room to our cottage for the little grub to sleep in, and re-assembling the Vmax for the new year, and, and, and.......
I will be down for the Goldenstates in a week and 1/2 though, and the couple of days after before I come back home up here again.
Short of that, I can scan a few pages from the "Holley bible" on the required stuff if you want and send it to you.
modnrod ·
Oh yeah, also.......
Holley part no 26-94 is the throttle plates with no holes in them, out of a 650/750 pumper (so you'll have 2 spare blades for when you put one on a NA with IDA-style centre branch manifold. Works good!). That should reduce the idle if you can't set it low enough.
And yep, I'd love to come around, even if just for a look!
humpty ·
Cheers for that Dave.... Interesting read..... Will drop by A1 tomorrow to see if they can help me out with the parts.... Always welcome to swing by.... PM me via NoH2O though.... For some reason AVD never lets me know when I have a message?
ian.mezz ·
ours is a under engine lid turbo kit and it fits with a smaller air cleaner , we made stands offs to be able to fit bigger air cleaner,
I see that your set up sits to high and near the engine lid mounts.
humpty ·
Yeah the compressor housing on my car sits closer to the centre of the car and the whole turbo length is longer than yours too.... My whole setup was built around a DCOE carb too.... Not the Holley.... So there's lots of issues for me to sort out... No biggie.... Just more challenges.
When I have had time for the cars, I have been moving from one project to another.... Hope to rego my trailer this week (just been working out how to fit the brakes actually), then it's time for a little racing before Christmas I hope.... I'm also knuckle deep into the efi/turbo conversion on the Bus and the rewiring of the T34's dash.... But the POS has not been forgotten.... I have new throttle plates coming in this week I hope, so will be pulling the carb off the car to fit them ASAP.
Final reports are due middle of this week, then its back into the projects.... 🙂
humpty ·
So the holidays have begun, the chrissy shopping is compete, the fridge is full and the beer is cold..... Time to get back into the shed.
The POS needs a few little things done... It has to run an engine cover to race, the carb needed some fettling to get the idle down, and to fix a stumble off idle, and the afr's needed some more tickle.... First job was the carb mods.... Been chatting to Rose in Sydney about the combo on her car.... She has a turnkey AJ Sims Turbo engine (I think it was a turnkey?) in the Nude Bug, that seems to be working pretty well.... It's a brand new rig, so she is still getting a handle on it... So far her best time with new combo (after 20 passes) over the 1/4 mile is 13.853. @7psi shifting @5000rpm... Not too bad at all... Will we see a 12 happening in Rose's future?.... Turn up the boost!!!! 😀
Here's some video of Rose in action for your viewing pleasure!
Anyway.... I had trouble getting the idle down to acceptable levels, and I wasn't totally happy with the advance curve I was running either, so off came the carb for a little tickle...
These holes in the throttle plates needed filling.... They are letting too much air through at idle, which is the cause of the high speed idle.... And I suspect they are also effecting the afr's too.... So out they came, and soldering up they have been.
Done...
And refitted...
While I had the carb in bits I trimmed off this throttle lever too....
Right from the get go, the idle was heaps better.... Settled down to a nice 1000rpm straight away.... And the afr's are almost bang on....
Next job was the stumble issue.... Found out that I had the accelerator pump lever adjusted incorrectly... There is a small cam on the throttle lever that actuates a secondary lever, that acts against the accelerator pump... Mine was miles out of adjustment.... Fixed that.... Stumble gone.... 😀
Next job is the engine cover, then I have to figure out the aircleaner setup.
Doug Sweetman ·
Nice to have successes isn't it ?
POS is looking the goods nowadays mate 🙂
humpty ·
Too right Doug.... Got heaps done today.... The engine cover is sorted now too.... Still thinking about the air cleaner though.... It's amazing to remember that this engine is still the same one I had in the green Bug.... Built the engine at Hellbug way back 91.... Crankcase has not been split since 94.... Wild!.... Looking forward to getting it on the track now.
Good to see you back by the way.
matberry ·
humpty wrote:.... Built the engine at Hellbug way back 91.... Crankcase has not been split since 94.... Wild!....
Cool, and they say these engines are unreliable......just build it right idiots !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good work Simon, nice for a win at last.
Stanley ·
Awesome stuff Simon. It's a good feeling having done it yourself too.
Go the Holley.👍
humpty ·
I must say thanks to all you guys for your support and advise with the project.... It's a been a long and frustrating road to be sure, but things seems to be on the up.... Gonna see if I can get a little dyno time early next year, then it track time.... Video in hand!
humpty ·
Here's the engine cover on, how I mounted it, and the next challenge.... The air cleaner limitation....
The mount....
On the car....
And how little space I have to wok with....
Wondering if there would be an issue with milling the choke bell off the top of the carb body?.... Doing that would give me loads more room....
Then I'd be able to use this.... Or something like it...
If I did, I'd have to clearance the internal partition....
Or possibly try to source one of the LPG hats that Dave (MODNROD) has suggested...
Doug Sweetman ·
Call me simple.... But if it's a drag bug ( is it still rego'd ?) I would consider just one of the foamie cleaners like the off roaders use perhaps....
17 years is not a bad run on a bottom end is it ?
Talking of your green bug, the old man had it out last weekend, it brings him many grins 🙂 he is just trying to find the time to fit a decent fuel pressure reg to remove a kadron stumble.
I am glad to be back... Tried to convince myself I was cured of vw's but failed.... Now I am finding myself thinking of ways to get one back in my driveway on limited time and budget 🙂
reub ·
Look forward to seeing it run when I move down next year dude!
And Doug - long time no see 🙂
Doug Sweetman ·
Reub !!!!!! How the heck are you ?
And the vwrx too - still got it ? That car was pure porn, no 2 ways about it. You coming to Perth ?
humpty ·
Yeah it's no longer a street car Doug.... Got one too many yellow stickers!.... Dunno about the air cleaner idea.... Will look into it....Reub's gonna be here in a few weeks for a visit.... Might see if I can get the Bug to the track while your here mate.... 🤪
reub ·
Still got vwrx (for life I'm told)
Heading to Perth - yep.
So simon, motorvation hey??? Lol
humpty ·
That could happen.... It's usually really hot though... I've never been, but have been told its a massive bogan fest.... Could be good for a laugh.... Might even take the POS!!!!
humpty ·
Finally got the trailer rego'd today..... Off to the Whoopass Wednesday next week for a little tickle with the loud pedal..... Who's coming to watch me feck up again? 😉
matberry ·
Would love to be there mate, but don't think I can make it. 😂
Good luck, hope she runs strong.
Camo ·
humpty wrote:These holes in the throttle plates needed filling.... They are letting too much air through at idle, which is the cause of the high speed idle.... And I suspect they are also effecting the afr's too.... So out they came, and soldering up they have been.
Done...
Not meaning to be negative, but is there any chance over time, temperature, vibrations and the vacuum created after backing off from big revs could suck this piece of solder out. I'm think of were it's going to go if that were to happen (not good).
When I first saw the photo I was thinking, I hope you are going to silver solder them in - but it doesn't look like it.
I hope I am totally wrong and the solder is up to the job, I have no expertise in this area. I am just concerned for you and all the hard work you have put in.
All the best with the car 👍
Kev
humpty ·
Yep.... Silver Solder was used Kev.... And solid throttle blades are on the way to replace these ones.
Stanley ·
If I leave now I might make it there by Wednesday...🤪
All the best mate. Hope it performs above your expectations.
Doug Sweetman ·
I think I will have to come along now.... Was planning to take my 6 year old son along to his first drag meet - if the opportunity come to show him a fast bug and convert him..... I would be silly not to !
humpty ·
With....
Without....
With....
Without....
What you reckon?
1916baja ·
Without..... All the way!
humpty ·
Yeah that seems to be the global consensus.... Will keep them for the gloss black smoothies I've built up for the Ghia....
matberry ·
Without.
🙂
humpty ·
Fiddling with some sort of air cleaner set-up.... And I use that term loosely!
This is just the parts sitting there at the minute.... Still need to tack it all together and sort out a mounting stud.... Anyone see any issues with running this?.... Apart from it not actually being and air cleaner at all.... :roll:
dangerous ·
Better than no air cleaner, but in my experience, a screen can be quite restrictive.
It has quite a bit of surface area, so this may still out flow the carb, or any other restriction down stream.
SO.
Have you sorted out the mixtures BEFORE going to the track?
Hurry up, i am getting old.😂
humpty ·
dangerous wrote:Better than no air cleaner, but in my experience, a screen can be quite restrictive.
It has quite a bit of surface area, so this may still out flow the carb, or any other restriction down stream.
SO.
Have you sorted out the mixtures BEFORE going to the track?
Hurry up, i am getting old.😂
Your right Dave.... I just fired up the car and it's definitely running richer... Amazed that it seems to have effected it so..... Good thing I have a wideband O2 on board.... Gonna have a go at the mixtures again tomorrow.... It ran so sweetly before the mods.... If it's proves to be a pain, I'll pull the screen off and run without.
reub ·
...with👍
humpty ·
reub wrote:...with👍
You following me around Reub? 😂
ian.mezz ·
how many turns out have you got your top srcew.
a 6/8cylinder holley on a bug will run a bit rich 😂 rich always better then lean.😊
Stanley ·
without and hurry up and race this thing.....😀
humpty ·
Nipples are off, and so is the screen...... The main needle is 2.25 turns out Ian and the idle mixture screws are currently 1.5 out.... What you running on Rose's car?
ian.mezz ·
humpty wrote:Nipples are off, and so is the screen...... The main needle is 2.25 turns out Ian and the idle mixture screws are currently 1.5 out.... What you running on Rose's car?
top 1 3/4 to 2 @ 7boost , told us to go 2 1/2 if 12 boost
1 1/2 .to 2 mixture.
we running Castrol edge sport oil 25/50
humpty ·
Righto..... Will back mine off a tad then.... It is running way better now the screen is gone, but still a little fuelly.... I'm set at 7.5psi max at the moment.... No boost bleed built in yet..... Will play with the main later today and report back.
Cheers again.
Simon
humpty ·
All went pretty well tonight.... Not as quick as I'd hoped, but very productive all the same.... First run was really crap.... Car was running really bad.... I think on account of the fact that I washed the car this morning.... Every time I wash it, it runs like shit.
I should know better!!!!
Anyway... A really rough 15.4 was the first run.... Came back to the pits, figuring that the plugs had gone bad.... Sure enough.... Sooty as.... Fresh plugs in and the car runs sweet again.... 14.6 was the next run (I think).... Very lazy off the line... Leaving at 3500rpm... Lazy 60' of 2.06.... Hit 93mph through the traps.... Straight around for another run.... Harder launch at 4k.... Missed the second shift, but trapped 14.4 and 96mph I think.... Next and last run was very bad.... Running a pro tree this time against a new Nissan Skyline.... First race I lost.... Car bogged really bad.... Was missing big time on the line.... Really, really crap run.... 14.6 I think... Missing badly.... Plugs have gone again.... But the POS is making around 7psi, which is what it's set at.
Still have big fuel issues.... The Adjust-a-jet was messed with once tonight.... It's now sitting on 1.5 turns out, and the idle mixture screws are 1.25 out.... Too much at idle obviously, as the engine is producing a bit of black smoke.... I think the 50cc pump diaphragm (squirter jet is a 28) is too much for the lil'engine.... I have 30cc to put in tomorrow.
These numbers are just off the head.... I have the slips in the car.... Will confirm it all tomorrow.
A very successful evening out.... Still heaps to do, but all in tiny steps.... I can't thank everyone enough for coming to the track today.... The officials all really liked the car... The scrutineers loved it... it sounds awesome, looks the part, launches well and runs straight.... Time to boost it up!
matberry ·
Awsome.....fun at the track 🙂
All this fuel/plug issues...crikey, must be driving you mad.....is your ignition doing what it is supposed to....is the advance curve doing what you want it to?
ian.mezz ·
so new set up is still way better. ?
humpty ·
It's very frustrating for sure, but the it's running heaps better than with the weber.... Still not certain the ignition is right, but I know the fuel is rich... If that is caused by an incorrectly timed ignition, I don't know...
I think the issue with the ignition is more down to how I have mounted the sensor than anything else.... The way it's fixed, makes it hard to read the timing marks, so it's hard to determine timing accurately.... Also.... The bracket is clearly not strong enough as it looks like the sensor has touched the timing wheel, so things might be out of whack..... I'm going to redo the sensor bracket and build in some adjustment.
Stanley ·
Good news Simon. Baby steps is the way to go.
Mine used to soot the plugs up something fierce when I was running low compression.
I knocked the idle up to help it burn off some of the fuel. Even with the 600 Holley i don't have that issue anymore running higher compression.
Timing could also be part of the problem as you say and might be an easier fix. Jetting will also help.
Doug Sweetman ·
Humpty - hope you dont mind if I post a couple of photos ?
Crowd support was good for the bugs too. Unfortunately Herman's usually reliable (10 years on same combo) 2.7L type 4 has serious overfuelling issues and only completed one (ugly) run, bending traction bar and generally being a pig.
Rolling up to start line. Sadly, no epic bogan burnouts 🙂
Humpty's first run (about a 15.6 from memory), he still won even with the sooted plugs.
Another run later in the night. From memory, the third of his succesive mid 14 passes, with nasty bog on the start line.
One of the supporters in the pits (didnt catch a name)... low enough to gain approval from my son.
Hermans monster on its only run... didnt catch the time.
And there was a very tasty blue split (barnie I think) microbus in the car park outside too !
humpty ·
Cheers for the pics Doug..... You make me look good! 😵💫
And that Barny you mentioned in the carpark is my brother 23 window BD..... Awesome bus that!
I know Brian White took some pics too.... And a spot of video.... Should be good for a laugh!
ian.mezz ·
roses bug only seems to get a bit fuely after idling to long.
on the road its great to drive.
i think we have to do it like top fuel cars just start it before the race.😂
Talking about fueling up those top fuellers make your eye water.
Doug Sweetman ·
Yeah seriously nice bus... First barnie I have seen in the flesh !
I have found more information on the carb setup.... There is one other thing that I need to do to the carb to make it work for me.... All this info is hard to pull together, but I'm getting there.... It's mostly down to me asking the right questions.... And I can only ask the questions, when I have the experience and seat time done...
The car is killing plugs after only a couple of runs.... I have since found out that the issue is a common one, but one that is easily solved.... I need a smaller accelerator pump shot.... Which I suspected was a potential problem before I went racing.... After Wednesday's T&T, I know this is the problem....
I feel I'm getting very close to making the good power I know this little engine can make.... I still think that a mid 13 is there with the current setup (7psi).... Short gears and all.... Once the carburetor is sorted, I'll need to work on the launches and then more boost will be thrown in.... Then we will see some good numbers....
Then it's time for a built transaxle, HD axles and the stroker!
humpty ·
30cc accel kit arrived today.... Will whack it in tomorrow.... Also on the jobs to do list is move the O2 and boost gauges from the rear view mirror to the lower 'A' pillar, and the shift light to the tach.... Looking for some better/lighter rear tyres too... Anyone got any suggestions?
If not slicks the choice has to be M/T ET Drag radial.
Dak-A-Tak ·
Just be careful of front tyre height , If car is lowered a little , a tyre about 24inches works well and looks good .
So check nankang tyre height first .Most front runners are smaller (lower)then what is writen on side.
On Rod's (48IDA) car we run Hoosier 23X4.5-15 on front and back MH racemaster 6X26-15slicks.
Is there anything wrong with running 135 Nagkangs on the front and the M&H Cheaters on the rear??
humpty ·
Think might have just broken it....
It's too hot to check for sure.... It's cooling down right now, but it just made a very scarey noise whilst I was setting the carb, then stopped abruptly...
🙁
matberry ·
humpty wrote:Think might have just broken it....
It's too hot to check for sure.... It's cooling down right now, but it just made a very scarey noise whilst I was setting the carb, then stopped abruptly...
🙁
Oh no, while idling......??? May not be too bad. Keep us informad. Had you been working on it.....any chance of injestion???? Was everything sounging ok while running, asny noises at the track.....?????????????
humpty ·
It was idling.... Only just got it up to temp... Was a little rich, as I had just fitted the new accell pump and had gone back to base settings.... All seemed good, no noises, no oil pressure issues, no problems at the track.... Just now, before I shut the shed, I noticed the EDIS timing wheel had fallen off the pulley!!!!???? Can't get a socket onto the bottom pulley to turn the engine over, scared to try the starter..... I'll pull the apron and rear tin off and check it in the morning.... I really hope it's only a timing issue and nothing major has failed as a result.
matberry ·
She'll be right mate, just the chopper wheel coming off, that'll stop it for sure, nothing else should have been harmed. Any noises would be timing related.👍👍👍
Fingers crossed dude, throw a spanner on the pulley and have a swing.......🙂
humpty ·
Hope so...
Doug Sweetman ·
I second Matt - loss of ignition control could have made all sorts of nasty pops and farts..... But with little likelihood of causing mechanical damage internally....
Good luck !
Stanley ·
Thirded(?) you'll be right Simon
humpty ·
Just got everything off, and the engine turns over fine.... No scarey noises.... The damage is minimal.... The pulley (made by Dave Stoker back in the day) is scratched up, a broken thread from the timing wheel mount is stuck in the pulley, the timing wheel is a little banged up but not bent, the sensor took a couple of hits, but looks ok and the sensor mount is bent....
Looks ok, just a little beat up.... Yet another battle scar to add to the POS' history book!
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Good to hear mate!!
Doug Sweetman ·
Hooray 🙂
matberry ·
👍👍👍 cool as, a few battle scars just add to the 'patina'..... 🙂
Stanley ·
Chicks love scars.......apparently
modnrod ·
Is there anything wrong with running 135 Nagkangs on the front and the M&H Cheaters on the rear??
Are the Nankangs radials or bias?
ANDRA rules state you can only go to 12.5 with slick on the back and radials on the front, but besides the rules, running 12s with a slick will feel much more stable with a bias on the front to match.
Up until mid-12s, it's fair game, and how it feels at the top end.
humpty ·
The Nagkangs are radials....
essex ·
Simon, did you get my pm, Barry
humpty ·
essex wrote:Simon, did you get my pm, Barry
Nope....
humpty ·
Have finished the new sensor mount.... I clocked the sensor and wheel about 15º (ATDC) to make it easier to check TDC and timing.... And to move the sensor and wiring away from the fan belt a little more.... I reckon it's come up pretty good....
And before you say anything about that Gene Berg timing decal on the pulley.... It is 180º out!!!.... I put it on wrong 20 years ago! :roll:
humpty ·
Up and running again.... Made a little video too.... Brushing up on my editing skills before school starts don't you know..... It's a very basic edit so I'll post it right up later this eve....
Scored some M&H Front Runners off Barry.... Price was right, so I guess I did want them.... Gonna order some 215/65-15 M&H Cheater Slicks next month.... Will fit these up on the ERCO's and make up a street set of BRM's for the POS.... Will have a pair of near new 145/65-15 Continental's for 100 clams if anyone is interested.... Only done 200km and a handful of quarter mile passes....
Gonna start on making up a crankcase breather now... The engine was pushing oil out the dipstick hole at the track the other week.... I've been putting this off for a while now, but the time has come.... Gonna fit it to the inner guard panel, just inside the engine bay, right over the intake manifold.... Will vent the rhs rocker cover and crankcase to it, with a drain back prolly down to the TIII oil filler hole. Anyone have a problem with that idea?.... Will go a take some mock-up pics shortly.
matberry ·
IMO I wouldn't bother with the drain back to the Type 3 oil filler, the breather pipes themselves will double as the drain back, as long as one is dedecated to this job being fitted to the bottom of the breather tank and having a direct path with no loops or dips in the hose to gather oil.
humpty ·
Whadayareckon?
Here?
Any issue with mounting the can sideways?..... It has an internal baffle tube that sits inline with the air filter...
Or here?
This one will make it a little harder to work on the car.... But will use the fittings as designed....
Plan was the drain going back to the TIII filler in the sump.... But as Matt has suggested, the breather lines can do double duty.... The rocker cover and one from the oil filler, or the dizzy drive plug, depending on which setup...
Doug Sweetman ·
I think if you mount it sideways it will fill with oil up to the inlet fitting before any oil feeds back to the sump. Probably no big issue to be honest but it looks like that catch can is designed to be vertical.
matberry ·
I'm for vertical too, RH tappet cover and a big -10 or -12 to the dissy plug.
humpty ·
Yeah..... Your right... The other option is neater and cooler, but not really ideal I know....
Also looking at better, light weight brakes for the car.... They must fit inside the ERCO's.... Any suggestions?
matberry ·
That fuel cell looks the go, awesome price.
Not sure what brakes to recommend, I think most will fit inside your Ercos. Will they make your car go faster??? 😉
humpty ·
Won't make it too much faster, but will stop it better.... That said.... Anyway to remove rotating mass from the driveline has too be a good thing right?
Just bought the tank..... So I guess the POS is no longer a road car!!! 😂
Stanley ·
I wouldn't worry about brakes at the mo if your just looking at saving weight.
There's plenty of other lightning to be done if it's no longer a Streeter.
I'm still running drums all round. Adds to the excitement
humpty ·
To race in the street meets here I have to run a full interior and working light etc.... But I think polycarbonate windows might be a good place to start.... Not to mention the 'nut behind the steering wheel' could stand to lose a few kilo! 😉
whathaveidone ·
but its not a street car anymore????????
Stanley ·
Yeh Simon....although he did say roadcar and he's a teacher so there must be a difference....😂
whathaveidone ·
we all have road cars!!!!!
unless there speedway
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Have a chat to rod Penrose as he did have some light weight discs and calipers that are Wilwood copies. Nice and light and not that expensive either. Troy has used something similar on his car which fitted nicely with his spindle
Mount fronts.
whathaveidone ·
hands off!!!!!! there mine when i can afford them!!!!!!!!!!!!!
humpty ·
whathaveidone wrote:hands off!!!!!! there mine when i can afford them!!!!!!!!!!!!!
As you guys prolly know, I'm coming to Sydney next month.... After the drags, I'll have all day Sunday to kill.... Might head down to Rod's if he's free.
😂
humpty ·
The POS has adjustable boost now.... 😁
Stanley ·
Just turn it up
whathaveidone ·
👍👍👍
matberry ·
Stanley wrote:Just turn it up
x2 😍😍
humpty ·
Fuel cell arrived today.... Got an easy day tomorrow.... Only have two classes in the morning.... Will be home by 11am.... So gonna get some fittings for it and fit it up.... Still waiting on the breather tank to surface.... The little jobs take forever!
cjbolt051 ·
all looking good , looking forward to seeng it run
essex ·
I think its time for some photos Simon...
humpty ·
Hahahahhah.... Will take some as I get through the updates Barry.... So build up pics will have to suffice.....
Really itching to get it back on the track, but have decided to wait for the correct tyres.... Those muthas I have on the back really don't like hitting 100mph!
Anyway.... Seeing what the rest of you guys are doing has inspired me to put my stroker together.... Chris' efforts with his WPVW sponsored, Ben with his M&M, Andrew and Frankenstein and of course we can't forget Rose, Ian and the 'Nude Bug'... All inspirational.
So next school holidays, I'm going to start on the build of the 2276..... It's long over due.....
I guess a real transaxle and axle is the next big spend coming up for me!
66brm ·
Finally we get to the main event!
Stanley ·
essex wrote:I think its time for some photos Simon...
Simon will if you will Barry....😂
essex ·
good point, I haven't any interesting photos of late,
But I have had it running, a mate has a bit of video on his phone...
humpty ·
66brm wrote:Finally we get to the main event!
Too right Andy....
whathaveidone ·
ITS NOT AN M&M!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!😬😬
humpty ·
Hahahahahhahhahahha..... OJ then...... 😁
Stanley ·
whathaveidone wrote:ITS NOT AN M&M!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!😬😬
Jaffa?.....🤪
humpty ·
Got a GT2560 on my car in a draw-through config.... It has the OEM Wastegate Actuator which is not adjustable.... Looking at other safe options to boost it up.... And found this....
I have actually made one like the one you use Andrew, but I have a fear that I have now turned the car into a boom!.... I have these images of the thing going bang as soon as the vent releases the mixture!.... I guess it's only a minute amount, so I'm prolly being stupid.... I'll post some pics of what I have made and where I have fitted it....
Stanley ·
Remember though that it is "teed" in so the the mixture would normally go to the waste gate actuator anyway other than a small amount of bleed off through the hole.
The amount of mixture that would come out of that would be minute as it is pressure with next to no flow.
humpty ·
This is it....
So the boost gauge a stepper motor type with a sensor mounted on the inner firewall... It's signal is shared by the MJ ignition and it comes directly off the centre intake manifold tube.... The turbo's wastegate gets it's signal from another fitting in the centre intake manifold tube via the boost bleed....
Stanley ·
That's pretty much the same as mine although I had the luxury of a boss on the turbo that I was able to drill and tap to screw the boost controller into.
The other thing is that the factory waste gates actuators suffer from creep. I tested mine and it was supposed to open at 7.5psi but started cracking at 5psi. Having the boost controller set above the actuator eliminates most of that. Be interested to see how accurate the adjustable one is. Buy one and see......😀
hellbugged ·
I've been using the same one you have humpty on the notch
Was given it by a Subaru dude who had read comparison testing articles and it came out on top for bang for buck
1/4 turn gave a fair amount of pressure increase tho, from memory it was close to 2 pds for a full turn, take it slowly up!
humpty ·
That's good to know.... I have yet to run the car with this in place.... Fitting the new fuel cell currently.... Might see if I can get a little dyno time when I get back from Sydney.... I'd like to get it base set before I hit the track.
I have but again wondered about mounting options.
I think being turbosmart product quality wouldn't be an issue.
hellbugged ·
i rekon tuck em up and see how it goooooes!
then do some development 😁
dangerous ·
humpty wrote:Might see if I can get a little dyno time when I get back from Sydney.... I'd like to get it base set before I hit the track.
This is the best decision you have made in your whole post Humpty!
Make sure you take along some methods of fuel and ignition adjustments.
1. Get it running,
2. Get it tuned on a dyno,
3. Drive it.
Always in that order.
Any other order is false economy,
especially on race cars.
See you in Sydney dude!
humpty ·
Stanley wrote:I have but again wondered about mounting options.
For me it would be a direct bolt on replacement for what's on my turbo... Easy as.
dangerous wrote:
humpty wrote:Might see if I can get a little dyno time when I get back from Sydney.... I'd like to get it base set before I hit the track.
This is the best decision you have made in your whole post Humpty!
Make sure you take along some methods of fuel and ignition adjustments.
1. Get it running,
2. Get it tuned on a dyno,
3. Drive it.
Always in that order.
I've wanted to do it all along Dave, but the problem has been finding a dyno shop willing to help set the car up.... The wideband AFR gauge is an awesome bit of kit, which I know has helped me hugely to get this far, but a little professional help is still needed, for such a finicky intake.... But I can tell you this.... The Holley is way more consistent and stable than the Weber!!!!
humpty ·
Thanks to what I witnessed on the weekend, the POS development plan has been ramped up a little....
I know I've been in denile for sometime, but we all know the car has finally made the transition into a drag/street car, as apposed to a street/drag car... So I have finally made the decision to build up the 2276 that's sitting on the shelf..... This was always the plan, but it's gonna happen sooner rather than later...
But I have a few questions on spec before I get it on the engine stand.... Cam is a WEB 86C with 112º lobe centres, AA 94's from Rodney.... The special Weisco copies in Mahle barrels, 5.4" CB H Beams, CB Crank and the other usual stuff.... So..
First up.... The heads..... Currently have some Wedge Ports..... Too big really.... Oval Ports a better option?.... Any other similarly priced options that use OEM intake/exhaust flanges?
Second question?.... Head studs.... Currently have 8mm CroMo studs I got off Rodney.... No idea on the brand, but he says they are good to go... Will they be enough for upwards of 15psi or should I step up to 10mm studs.... Options?
cnfabo ·
i thought the oval ports have a bigger cc volume of the intake ports..seen it in a current hotvw's mag.....
what about the superpro's
essex ·
Second question?.... Head studs.... Currently have 8mm CroMo studs I got off Rodney.... No idea on the brand, but he says they are good to go... Will they be enough for upwards of 15psi or should I step up to 10mm studs.... Options?
I have 10mm Raceware studs, if thats any help,
hypo-vw ·
humpty wrote:Thanks to what I witnessed on the weekend, the POS development plan has been ramped up a little....
AA 94's from Rodney....
Currently have 8mm CroMo studs .... No idea on the brand... Will they be enough for upwards of 15psi or should I step up to 10mm studs.... Options?
Hi Humpty, it was great meeting with you on the weekend at WSID ..... just confirm with Rodney that the AA pistons that he sold you are the true-forged ones and not the cheaper version as he imports both types . The true-forged ones are the only way to go .
ATM we are using bugpack 8mm headstuds in Chris Boltons' 2387ml turbo engine at 15psi boost with no ill effect at all . We are getting perfect head seal and making 238hp @ the wheels . If you plan to run a lot higher in boost pressure I would recommend using the 10mm racewear studs as I use in my turbo oval . I would once again confirm with Rodney that the studs he sold you are superior quality , and if not he may be able to help you with some .
Well done for making the trip across our great nation to be with us at WSID . Team WPVW
humpty ·
Well Chris.... I've been thinking and looking at a few different head designs that would better suit a turbo engines needs.... And I reckon the Super Pro 044 heads from CB look to be a very good option for an 'off the shelf' head.... Slightly small intake cc which seems to improve velocity, but with nice un-shrouded valves to get the gasses moving better in the chamber.... Flow is similar to the Wedgie's but with greater velocity... That's looking like a step in the right direction....
As for the studs and pistons I got off Rod... He did say when I purchased them, that they will be more than up to the task of 15psi+... The pistons do look very nice and the shop that did my balancing said they also looked and spec'ed up nicely... The race quality studs from Bugpack do look nice and price is very fair too... The Raceware ones that Dave Kawell suggested, which you run too Wayne, do look rather special, but I think might be going just a little too far for me.... I'm not searching for a 9 second car here.... 10's would be nice...😁 But realistically, budgets must be set at some point.... I still need to get a decent transaxle built... The current box is doing fine, but I think I'll be running out of gears when the stroker steps up.😵💫
whathaveidone ·
does this mean the POS will be runniing at Warwick?????????????
essex ·
sounds like he's got something going on...
you got on the plane ok then Simon?
humpty ·
Oh if only.... If I could get sponsorship to cover the transport costs...... It's only a dream.... 2500 bux just to get to Sydney and back.... I doubt Warwick will ever see the POS run.... But I might make the flight over.... Just for a laugh. 😁
Sunday was bloody funny Barry.... The trains were down to Granville, so I had to bus it to there... Carrying a couple of tyres and a rucksack got some looks I can tell ya.... Then wondering around Central Station and Newtown was a laugh... But the biggest grins came at the airport check in and later in Perth on the luggage carousel... People were double taking the sight everywhere I was going.... All good but.... No extra charge to bring them back! 👍
wow...POS running...........👍👍 Cheers mate, but where's one WOT
ian.mezz ·
what have you done to the pos , it sounds like my old victa mower.
humpty ·
matberry wrote:wow...POS running...........👍👍 Cheers mate, but where's one WOT
In a fortnight.... Busy this weekend with a three day music festival.... Dyno next week I hope, then the track the week after.... All going to plan. 😂
Stanley ·
You need to water your grass Simon.
humpty ·
Stanley wrote:You need to water your grass Simon.
That's what winter is for......😂
essex ·
hey Simon, have you checked out new Gonzo @ Volksworld show, seen on fb
humpty ·
essex wrote:hey Simon, have you checked out new Gonzo @ Volksworld show, seen on fb
Oh yes..... It's awesome!!!
Stanley ·
Hey Simon what do you teach?
humpty ·
Used to be a Design Lecturer at university, but moved over to high school teaching 6 years ago.... Started out as a Design and Technology Teacher, specializing in Home Workshop, Mechanical Engineering, Robotics, Fine Art Jewellery, Drafting and good old wood and metal work, but these days I'm a Visual Arts (formally painting, sculpture, print making) teacher, but specializing in Media Production (TV and Film) and Graphic/Industrial Design.... Both of which have been my profession (prior to teaching) for the over 20 years.
By the way.... Put hotter plugs in the POS today and took it for a blast around the hood.... Man what a difference that made!!!... Gonna book it in for some dyno time later this week I hope.
Stanley ·
Cool.......I thought you might be an English teacher which meant I had type any posts in word so I could use spell check......😂
Good to here pos is progressing well
humpty ·
Just got word from VW Parts Unlimited..... My slicks are in transit!.... Yeah!
The car is done..... Been busy building a new engine and transaxle for the Bus last week, and have been driving it everywhere this week.... But finally had some time to work on the POS yesterday and today.... The last little jobs are finished.... The last time I was at the track the officials pointed out the crankcase breather was not legal..... Fuel tank is properly mount too..... It is now legal to race.....
Off to the dyno next week if I can book it in..... Stroker is this winters project..... And possibly a proper transaxle too..... Open to suggestions.
essex ·
good stuff Simon, what didnt they like about the breather?
humpty ·
I didn't actually have one.... Only the OEM oil filler/breather was in place.... The one that has a an outlet to the road and a outlet that goes to the air cleaner.... The don't like breathers venting/draining to the track and it's supposed to have a catch can devise built in.... So now I have both.
humpty ·
Bit more done....
M&H Cheaters and front runners fitted to the ERCO's.... Man these things are light!
New fuel tank is in properly.... Ended up making a proper clamp strap to hold it all in correctly.
And the new turbosmart boost actuator is in and hooked up....
Thinking about pulling the tacho as it's kinda useless... And I reckon there is some weight to be saved around the car.... Things like the lug nuts and such.... After looking over Chris Boltons car in Sydney, I'm getting a little focused on saving weight.... Fatboy needs all the help he can get!
essex ·
Good stuff Simon, looks & sounds like youve been busy, tyres look good,
Where are you at with this, street or drag,either, anymore photos of the motor?
humpty ·
It's totally drag now Barry.... Still a streeter in presentation.... Lights, seatbelts, seats and such, but I doubt it will ever see the street again.... Hence the thinking about hole saws and cutoff wheels.... 👍
As for pics of the engine.... Have some on my photobucket account if your interested....
Nothing really there more than what I have posted here, but by all means have a gander...
essex ·
Cheers Simon, will take a look, got some draw thru holley questions for you & Stanley, i'll pm you,
Lots of guys seem to get their bugs running strong with lots of original steel on them still, very little cutting,
cjbolt051 ·
QUOTE ""Thinking about pulling the tacho as it's kinda useless... And I reckon there is some weight to be saved around the car.... Things like the lug nuts and such.... After looking over Chris Boltons car in Sydney, I'm getting a little focused on saving weight.... Fatboy needs all the help he can get! ""
Hi simon looking good, the grinder is my friend now it can be yours lol. Dont be scared
humpty ·
Cheers Chris.... The inspirational work of some you guys over there is really spurring me on...
I'm thinking about fitting another breather off the fuel pump block off point.... Currently have the turbo draining there.... Would the be any issue with both items connecting there?
Stanley ·
essex wrote:Cheers Simon, will take a look, got some draw thru holley questions for you & Stanley, i'll pm you,
Lots of guys seem to get their bugs running strong with lots of original steel on them still, very little cutting,
Lookin' great mate.
Don't listen to Barry Simon he's got a gazillion horse power and a chopped roof. Make the holesaw and grinder your friend.....😂
humpty ·
I'm really looking forward to the 2276 going in this winter Andrew..... Then I'll have a gazzillion horses under the engine cover too! 😁
But in the meantime.... Matt Keene's awesome car has some very creative holes cut into it.... Not a lot a weight gaining apparently, but it looks awesome!!!
The doors have plenty in there, and the windows of course weigh a ton.... A couple of mates in Adelaide have fitted a RLR cage in their car..... Looks brilliant, but do I need to go that far?
This is madness!!!!!
essex ·
Lookin' great mate.
Don't listen to Barry Simon he's got a gazillion horse power and a chopped roof. Make the holesaw and grinder your friend.....😂 [/quote]
Its a little like a swimmer shaving body hair, do ya think?
feel fast & you'll end up going fast...
essex ·
of course you need a cage Simon, Peter Page has really nice fg doors on his ride, huge weight savings there!
whathaveidone ·
while were on the subject of fg, cut the front off!!! And the rear guards too!!!!!!!!!!! 😂😀😀😀
humpty ·
whathaveidone wrote:while were on the subject of fg, cut the front off!!! And the rear guards too!!!!!!!!!!! 😂😀😀😀
Can't imagine the freight cost to get something like a fg frontend over here!!!!??
You guys are bad influences....
matberry ·
Can only say one thing....cut, cut, cut.😂😂😂
Stanley ·
It's either that or do like Barry and get the razor out.
I like the the bragging power of all steel, although I just got an of school fg bonnet with scollops in it. Its for a later model but I feel a cut and shut coming on.
whathaveidone ·
I know a few truckies who go over there a fair bit. wouldnt be to hard for them cart it, on the side. not to be a bad influence or anything😁 and i hear bunnings are having a sale on grinder blades!!!!!😁😁
essex ·
Matt Keenes holes only amounted to >1kg or so I read, like the front end treatment on that car,
humpty ·
Doesn't Brad have a fg frontend mold?..... Hmmmmm...... Aren't you coming over here around Christmas Ben?.... Maybe we can get the can opener out?
But I kinda like the idea of just trimming out whats there.... I see the Otto Bros. are pretty handy with the tin snips....
Pork Sword ·
humpty wrote:.... A couple of mates in Adelaide have fitted a RLR cage in their car..... Looks brilliant, but do I need to go that far?
Really? Haha...
The RLR kit is pretty easy to build, nice kit, there's lots of time in fishmouthing the ends (esp door bars etc that connect on angles) but it is kind of satisfying to see it come together. And you do get quicker at it as you go.
humpty ·
And I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished result Greg.... 👍👍
humpty ·
I'm investigating fitting a kill/inertia switch for the fuel pump and I'm looking my options....
I have bought two EDIS kits off Boost Engineering a few years back.... Both kits came with the FORD inertia switch...
Are these any good?.... Are there better or simpler options?
Lay it on me fellas.... I'm all ears.
modnrod ·
One option that's quick and easy Simon (since you're running a carby), is to ground the fuel pump relay through a basic oil pressure switch. If the car decides to cross the line on its head (God forbid), the carby floods, kills the motor, no oil pressure kills the pump. It was pretty common before EFI.
Another option is a "tip switch" off a late model EFI bike from the wreckers, should be cheap enough.
You might like a momentary switch that bypasses the oil pressure switch to prime the bowls.
humpty ·
That FORD Inertia switch is just like the 'tip switch' that you mentioned.... To run this I won't have to run any extra wiring in the car..... Might go with that.
Cheers Dave.
dragvw2180 ·
Hey Humpty.
The inertia switch is an impact switch, it is a fuel cutoff switch . In case of an accident it cuts power off to the fuel pump.If you bump it against anything the ball inside will dislodge and create an open circuit. Over here at the Ford dealership I rarely ever had to replace them. The connector was available from Ford as a service part. Hope this helps, Mike
cjbolt051 ·
humpty wrote:Cheers Chris.... The inspirational work of some you guys over there is really spurring me on...
I'm thinking about fitting another breather off the fuel pump block off point.... Currently have the turbo draining there.... Would the be any issue with both items connecting there?
Hi mate we made the additional breather hoses/breather box drain into fittings welded on rocker covers and it works fine . on the previous "V" motor we run it up as you are talking about but it was not enough
humpty ·
Good to here Mike..... I have started fitting the switch this morning... Along with painting a beam and cleaning the shed..... Just about done with all that...
As for the breather idea Chris..... I have the breather from the oil filler and the rhs rocker cover going to the tank.... Figure that will be enough for now.... But when the stroker goes together I'll add another at the top of the crankcase just in front of the shroud, behind the flywheel flange plate.
Cheers for the advise guys.
humpty ·
So the new engine will be going together in the few weeks... Gonna do a trans lift at the same time, but one thing that I'm thinking about right now is fuel...
I know the larger engine should be better suited to the carb, exhaust and turbo, and I can get E85+ locally for about $3 a litre. Have been hearing that it's a far more stable fuel for a car that sees no road use and will not kill the plugs like I'm currently experiencing.... Chris reckons I should go Methanol and I know Ian and Rose are using something else that's a little special, but would like to hear from others.
What you gurus suggest?
modnrod ·
Methanol for a air-cooled race anything is a no-brainer, but that's just my biased opinion Simon! You could really run the thing on Unleaded 91 if you want.
One thing to consider about methanol that may not be mentioned in others opinions possibly, is that it can help keep the air/fuel temps stable day/night, summer/winter (once you have a handle on tuning to suit it), which means consistency. The more runs you can get, the more shiny Commodes you can send home........
humpty ·
I'm over PULP Dave.... That's the reason for the query.... I know the 'E' fuels to be more stable, and I know meth is better for a cool consistent charge, but the hassle of draining the whole shooting match is something I'm not sure I want to deal with.... Prolly just being lazy.😁
dangerous ·
E85 will want regular draining and cleaning the tank and parts too.
I think both Aaron and Henry have opinions on E85, perhaps they will share.
If I was not a Methanol man I would be a Premium Unleaded Dude.
nbturbo ·
A bit off the topic Dave( Methanol Man ) Do you use any form of additive with the Methanol ?
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Troys car is going to run methanol once finished. Biggest advantage is cooling properties as it will be running 30 psi as well!!
humpty ·
Cheers for the advise DB..... Always glad to hear from someone who's been there..... Currently I do run premium, but the plugs are not enjoying the experience.... Mostly I believe this is down to the engine rarely getting to temp..... I fitted hotter plugs a while back, and they did last longer, and I know the bolt on combo is too much for the mild long block, but now I know it works, it's time to step up the capacity.... And this is where the fuel question comes in.... With methanol you can get away without running all the cooling gear in place too, correct?.... If this is a by product of cool running, how does the engine get to temp in the first place?.... Or don't you guys worry about that?
dangerous ·
nbturbo wrote:A bit off the topic Dave( Methanol Man ) Do you use any form of additive with the Methanol ?
I really should run an additive Gary, but am a bit lazy.
I have in the past.
I have heard great things about the VP M2 brand additive!
(from guys that use it)
Simon, yes it is very difficult to get any decent engine temp without some load.
Don't forget to use some common sense when it coms to plugs fouling.
Unless it is some super cold plug,
and 3:1 compression ratio,
look at the cause first before blaming the fuel.
It is either too rich at some point in the curve
(probably at idle),
or it is oil contamination.
Don't forget all the modern cars around
that use that fuel and go at least 20000 km before the plugs need anything....usually mch more with irridium and modern ignition...LIKE YOU HAVE!!!!
Poor atomisation/manifold can mean you have to run a rich idle mixture...
"fix the cause not the symptom"
This is bit of advice my doctor gave me but it works well from everything from cars to relationships!!
matberry ·
dangerous wrote:"fix the cause not the symptom"
This is bit of advice my doctor gave me
ha ha ha ...Dr Berg I believe.....been practising that one for many years...except for the relationship bit😂
EDIT: Oh, and I agree re fouling plugs...has to be a rich condition happening somewhere, from your vid, I feel it is in the idle circuit area (yeah I know it's a Holley 🙂 )
humpty ·
Yeah it's very rich in the idle circuit.... It's real sweet under boost.... I have attempted to tune it out a little.... Unfortunately I haven't found the 'sweet spot' for the baby motor... Either too much fuel or not enough.... There just isn't enough intake velocity to compensate in the lower speeds..... The carb, turbo and header are way too big for the little engine (which I figured they would be).... I believe that the (long planned) larger capacity engine will go a long way to alleviate the low speed/over rich mixture problem, and be a way better match for the bolt on bits.
But I'm sure other challenges will crop up when that engine is finally installed!
Stanley ·
I had all sorts of problems with plugs fouling. The biggest issue was the low comp ratio I ran originally but I still have a 600 Holley on a 1641 with big jets to account for leaning under boost. It has bogging issues but I found simply screwing the idle up has made a difference.
humpty ·
That's a good point Andrew.....My little 1776 i's only a 7.5:1 comp deal!!!!
Have always been surprised as to how well it goes considering the passive nature of the engine.... Guess it's down to those amazing heads I got off Adam (Keith Hauslers old mate) all those years ago.... Shimo gave them some love back in 94 for me... Done naught to them since but a set of exhaust valves! 😂
nbturbo ·
dangerous wrote:
nbturbo wrote:A bit off the topic Dave( Methanol Man ) Do you use any form of additive with the Methanol ?
.
Thanks Dave - what is your experience with methanol and initial break in for a new engine ? Guess some sort of additive would be useful then.
I really should run an additive Gary, but am a bit lazy.
I have in the past.
I have heard great things about the VP M2 brand additive!
(from guys that use it)
Simon, yes it is very difficult to get any decent engine temp without some load.
Don't forget to use some common sense when it coms to plugs fouling.
Unless it is some super cold plug,
and 3:1 compression ratio,
look at the cause first before blaming the fuel.
It is either too rich at some point in the curve
(probably at idle),
or it is oil contamination.
Don't forget all the modern cars around
that use that fuel and go at least 20000 km before the plugs need anything....usually mch more with irridium and modern ignition...LIKE YOU HAVE!!!!
Poor atomisation/manifold can mean you have to run a rich idle mixture...
"fix the cause not the symptom"
This is bit of advice my doctor gave me but it works well from everything from cars to relationships!!
humpty ·
?
dangerous ·
nbturbo wrote:
dangerous wrote:
nbturbo wrote:A bit off the topic Dave( Methanol Man ) Do you use any form of additive with the Methanol ?
.
I really should run an additive Gary, but am a bit lazy.
I have in the past.
I have heard great things about the VP M2 brand additive!
(from guys that use it)
Simon, yes it is very difficult to get any decent engine temp without some load.
Don't forget to use some common sense when it coms to plugs fouling.
Unless it is some super cold plug,
and 3:1 compression ratio,
look at the cause first before blaming the fuel.
It is either too rich at some point in the curve
(probably at idle),
or it is oil contamination.
Don't forget all the modern cars around
that use that fuel and go at least 20000 km before the plugs need anything....usually mch more with irridium and modern ignition...LIKE YOU HAVE!!!!
Poor atomisation/manifold can mean you have to run a rich idle mixture...
"fix the cause not the symptom"
This is bit of advice my doctor gave me but it works well from everything from cars to relationships!!
Thanks Dave - what is your experience with methanol and initial break in for a new engine ? Guess some sort of additive would be useful then.
If you are not breaking in a new cam and lifters
then your first dyno session is all you will need to break the engine in.
Other than making sure you do not contaminate the oil with methanol,
it would be no different to any other break- in.
ie get some load on it to assist the rings' seal.
humpty ·
That's great info Dave..... But since mine will be a totally new engine.... Would it be safer to break in with PULP first?
I know.... And 500CCA too!!..... Should be more than man enough to turn the Dub over hey?
matberry ·
Nice, a great way to save weight. 👍 Must save 10-12 kg 👍👍
humpty ·
I was looking at that battery that Morgan has in his car, but the price was crazy... Then I found out about these from a dude I know who's into Harleys 🤪 But the lead was solid.... They look prefect for the job IMO.
Think I'll order one.... With all the weight saving going on, I might even crack a full power run one day.... 🙄
Stanley ·
the word ballistic in the desription amuses me....🙂
modnrod ·
Gotta love LiFePo stuff!
I need a new battery for my ride, and since it takes a bloody great Harley battery, this will save 5 or 6kg.
Onya Simon! Cool link.
20bkombi ·
That's massive Output for such small dimensions,
Thanks for sharing.
tayloredvw ·
could you put this in a street driven bug?
humpty ·
yep....
humpty ·
Morg's has been hanging around my place the last couple of days.... So I put him to work this arvo....
We built up some new plug leads, which fixed some of the crappy and fiddly connections I had before.... We then got the POS running after only a few cranks....
It's actually running and idling better than ever..... I reckon these more positive connections on both the plug and coil have improved things markedly.
Might get a road permit for the weekend and go for a spin on the street!!!! 😂
Arrives in 2 days. They are ATV/Seedoo batteries. Little heavier than above, but far cheaper
I hope it has enough CCA s to get you started. Mitchell
ian.mezz ·
I wouldnt waste money on a battery like that.
humpty ·
The battery BiX suggested or the ones I am looking at Ian?
I have to also say.... This seemingly stronger spark has made some difference in other areas.... The AFR's on the POS are much better now too..... Idle's around 12-13 (1000rpm... The high idle rpm keeps the intake velocity up and fueling to a minimum), and rev's around 10-11.... So the referenced PV is working fine as it always had.... Ill see how she goes under boost later.
BiX ·
they also have the Yausa brand which are very light and still cheap.
humpty ·
Dumb idea time.....
I want to turn the POS into a consistent 11.0 car.
Asking too much?
humpty ·
BiX wrote:they also have the Yausa brand which are very light and still cheap.
Cold Cranking Amps are no where near what the other batteries produce.
modnrod ·
humpty wrote:Dumb idea time.....
I want to turn the POS into a consistent 11.0 car.
Asking too much?
Onya Humpty!
Rattle those LSx cages........
whathaveidone ·
humpty wrote:Dumb idea time.....
I want to turn the POS into a consistent 11.0 car.
Asking too much?
You have been talking to Morgs havent you!!!!
humpty ·
Yes Ben.... I have..... He's a very bad influence..... And I want to nail more V8's!!!!
humpty ·
So next Wednesday night I'm hoping to take the POS to the track.... And for the first time with the M&H front runners and cheater slicks fitted up to the ERCO's.... Never run with tyres like this before (ie: round and very light), so I have question for you all.... Bare in mind that I really don't have the transaxle (it's a close ratio TRANSFORM built trans with Super diff, HD side plate and 4.12 R&P) or axles (riffled stockers) for burnouts.... Not the most ideal setup, but it's all I got.... And the car/me prolly wouldn't/couldn't do a burnout anyway...
But the simple question is..... What sort of tyre pressures should I be starting with?
whathaveidone ·
I allways run High pressures. For the first run about 17psi then drop to about 15 psi. If its still spinning ill keep droping. Last year at Warwick I was down to 12psi (Henry runs 12psi all the time). In the front I run 21psi. Every one has there own opinions on this but I feel comfortable with these. It feels too slopy at the topend with any lower that 15 for me.
humpty ·
Cheers Ben..... I'll try that and see what happens.
modnrod ·
A bit of slip and wheelspin will reduce the strain on the box Simon, and 20psi with a good diff is better than getting a tenth or two from 12psi but sitting in the pits with a cactus diff.
humpty ·
Heard that Dave..... It's all just a T&T for me currently.... Still haven't had a clean set of numbers yet... Once that has been done, I'll get a little braver with the setup.
Stanley ·
i'm with Ben on tyre pressures. i haven't gone below 15psi yet
humpty ·
😵💫😉
😂
whathaveidone ·
Did you buy this????
humpty ·
Yep.... Just sent the coin through this morning.
😀
whathaveidone ·
Now you can do big smoky burnouts
humpty ·
whathaveidone wrote:Now you can do big smoky burnouts
👍👍👍
hypo-vw ·
this all looks very exciting Simon ....well done mate !!
humpty ·
I'm totally stoked with the score Wayne.... This will go along way to making the driveline near on indestructible... But now of course I need to figure out how to get this into basically stock pan car, with the bare minimum of cutting.... I want to get the car lower while I'm at it, but really want to stay all steel too.... But I'm not adverse to a bit trimming....
Open to suggestions and any images you guys might have to help with this new upgrade.
HS618 ·
whathaveidone wrote:(Henry runs 12psi all the time)
I can probably get away with 11 to 12 psi as I run tubes and have an IRS setup which, I guess, is more forgiving in the top end than swing axle (at 9 to 10psi mine begins to squirm in he top end)
Remember also that not all tyre gauges are created equal so it's more important to set it to what YOU like and feel safe with - H
humpty ·
Interesting what you say about tubes Henry.... You run slicks to though don't you, not the DOT cheaters?.... Is there much difference in how they behave?
matberry ·
I'm with Henry. Tubes make around 2-3 psi difference in your set up pressures. With tubes I used to run around 12 psi in the rear, also IRS but stable in the deep end if your tracking straight.
So Simon, spill the beans on the bus box with swing conversion. Yours?
humpty ·
Yep.... Just bought it Mat.... I hear the Folts axles are exy to replace, but I doubt that will ever be a problem for me.... The rig was built a few years back, but never used, so if this is true, then I've stumbled on a pretty good deal!..... Now I just need to get it here.... The gent I bought it from runs a VW Shop in Seattle, and he's crating and shipping it to LA for me for nothing.... Gonna chuck it in a container with a mates recently purchased pre-runner.
matberry ·
Cool as mate, the prerunner that is. Your trans is ok too 😉
The problem with the Folts axles (I'm sure you know this but I'll say it just in case) is that if an inboard uni or axle breaks, the wheel is only held on by the spring plate that has no lateral strength. Your wheel goes sideways, breaks or bends the spring plate, may steer the car??? and nearly always will take out the guard and rear bodywork. ..... ouch
humpty ·
Better hope it doesn't break then!!! 😵💫
humpty ·
This arrived in the mail....
🙂🙂🙂
westi ·
make sure you have a balacne charger,it will last longer.
cjbolt051 ·
Hi mate , It was good to catch up again, looking forward to seeing your bug develope and run. also really looking forward to seeing a picture of the framed lolliepops hanging on the wall.😂
humpty ·
westi wrote:make sure you have a balacne charger,it will last longer.
A what Brad?
cjbolt051 wrote:Hi mate , It was good to catch up again, looking forward to seeing your bug develope and run. also really looking forward to seeing a picture of the framed lolliepops hanging on the wall.😂
I have some pics in the works (from Sunday), and a picture frame in the design stages....
I had such a blast this weekend..... Really learnt a lot.... Dunno why I caught so many cherries, but it makes for a funny story!
Great to catch up with you all, and here's to the next one.
matberry ·
Cherry's Humpty....do tell 😂😂😂😂
hypo-vw ·
matberry wrote:Cherry's Humpty....do tell 😂😂😂😂
6 from 9 !! ..... damn good effort in my opinion . Those east coast clutches must release quicker than that of the west coast . lol😂😂😂
humpty ·
hypo-vw wrote:
matberry wrote:Cherry's Humpty....do tell 😂😂😂😂
6 from 9 !! ..... damn good effort in my opinion . Those east coast clutches must release quicker than that of the west coast . lol😂😂😂
Nah Wayne.... It's you east coasters and your lazy .400 lights that are the problem! 😘
hypo-vw ·
👍👍👍
great to hear that you got back home safely and looking forward to catching up again soon ....
mike64 ·
Yer I got 2 cherrie's on the weekend that make's 4 in 15yrs or so, think I was a little over eager with the car coming together n putting a smile on Dave.
mike64 ·
Cherries ....Red Light....Matt🙅
matberry ·
No kidding fella's. I certainly know about cherries.
My clanger was against Gary Berg, gave him the win when his car bogged and I had an otherwise super clean pass.
I was trying to get Humpty to spill his guts. The odds were pretty good when racing Simon....can't wait to race in his class....maybe in Sydney 🙂
hypo-vw ·
when it comes to consistantancy , Humptys' da man ..... for cherries that is !! must be an all time record for Warwick , he has just got to be careful he doesn't end up with diabetes with all those red lollipops .😂😂😂
mike64 ·
That remind's me where's my lollypop's, hmmmmm maybe Dave picked them up.
humpty ·
Hahahahahaha... "Mr Consistent".... That's me! 😂
Still buzzin' after such a huge weekend..... I can't thank you all so much for everything..... Especially you Wayne.... Your generosity is greatly appreciated.
Not taking the bug to the track tomorrow.... Gonna book it in for a dyno session and try to make the track before the end of the holidays.
The Nostalgia's are on here later this month, and the suspension and transaxle updates for the POS are being planned.
HS618 ·
mike64 wrote:That remind's me where's my lollypop's, hmmmmm maybe Dave picked them up.
So, I guess, that explains my generous size!! (had a few over the years - some redder than others)
By the way, excellent work on the weekend, Mike and Dave
HS618 ·
humpty wrote:
hypo-vw wrote:
matberry wrote:Cherry's Humpty....do tell 😂😂😂😂
6 from 9 !! ..... damn good effort in my opinion . Those east coast clutches must release quicker than that of the west coast . lol😂😂😂
Nah Wayne.... It's you east coasters and your lazy .400 lights that are the problem! 😘
I believe that the staging lights at Warwick were "tighter" on the weekend than the lights I'm used to in Sydney
westi ·
it balances the cells.there are 16 cells and they can all be charged individually.a quick charge will read ready but may have only charged 10 of 16 cells properly.
no biggy evry now and then drop it to your local rc hobby shop and ask them for it to be balance charged.
it's a lipo battery,they can let go big time if not taken care of.
check em out on youtube.🤪
humpty ·
westi wrote:it balances the cells.there are 16 cells and they can all be charged individually.a quick charge will read ready but may have only charged 10 of 16 cells properly.
no biggy evry now and then drop it to your local rc hobby shop and ask them for it to be balance charged.
it's a lipo battery,they can let go big time if not taken care of.
check em out on youtube.🤪
That doesn't look like too much fun!....
I have looked into a balance charger and found that JayCar sell an interesting product...
Hopefully the tech has gotten better for the leisure sport market from where these batteries have come.....
Cheers for the heads up Brad.
humpty ·
Got an offer to cover the cost of shipping one of Westi's fibreglass frontends to Perth.....
Shall I cut the front off the POS or should I keep it steel just because?
HS618 ·
Depends if you have help at the track (and home) to remove and install it. (that's why mine is still steel with a sprung bonnet)
1916baja ·
Keep it steel! I love the look of your car as it is....
modnrod ·
Do you rekn you're going to put this back on the street ever Simon?
Really? 😁
You could get a glass nose, but hinge it at the front (bumper mount height), then you can swing it up on your own if you have to ever. As you know, plenty of people at the pit bay next to you to help out a few times a day if needed anyway.
Lots of weight taken out......
hypo-vw ·
did you run on wednesday night Simon ? and if so how did you go ?
humpty ·
HS618 wrote:Depends if you have help at the track (and home) to remove and install it. (that's why mine is still steel with a sprung bonnet)
Thank you Henry.... That's the sort of advise I was looking for... You have raised a very important point I had not considered..... I often do have help around the house and at the track, but more often not...
And no Wayne.... I didn't get to the track on Wednesday night.... I had a very busy day with a client (I'm making bespoke chandeliers for their new house), which nailed my prep time.... So in the eve, I caught up with a heap of Dubbers at a burger place instead.
Working on the car today so it's ready for next Wednesday.
humpty ·
Didn't get to the track.... Again.... Been marking assignments and folios for most of the day.... More tomorrow.
But anyway.... I'm planning/designing a suitable mounting for my fancy new Ballistic battery, but thought I'd ask those that know more than I (ie: you lot) for some advise.
Is there a (ANDRA) ruling on how batteries are to be mounted?
PS: I'm not an ANDRA member (yet), but I figure I should start to building this stuff out the right way... 🙄
modnrod ·
humpty wrote:Is there a (ANDRA) ruling on how batteries are to be mounted?
I can't remember off the top of my head, but as long as it's secure, you'll be fine. Also check the book for a battery cut-off switch (the little red on/off Narva or Hella ones workl fine), I can't remember the ET cut-off, but you might need one of those too for National events. I can drop you off a Rulebook if you want next time I'm down there, or PM me your postal address Simon and I'll flick it off when I get home next week.
Might be 1 year old, but will give you all the detail you need for any S/ST regs you might want to check off.
dangerous ·
humpty wrote:
HS618 wrote:Depends if you have help at the track (and home) to remove and install it. (that's why mine is still steel with a sprung bonnet)
Thank you Henry.... That's the sort of advise I was looking for... You have raised a very important point I had not considered..... I often do have help around the house and at the track, but more often not...
And no Wayne.... I didn't get to the track on Wednesday night.... I had a very busy day with a client (I'm making bespoke chandeliers for their new house), which nailed my prep time.... So in the eve, I caught up with a heap of Dubbers at a burger place instead.
Working on the car today so it's ready for next Wednesday.
I hate those one piece fronts.
On the few runs I had in my tube car
all i could think about was what a pain in the arse it was.
My current bonnet is glass, and all that is under there is the battery,
but if my tank was under there i would add springs like Henry.
whathaveidone ·
Battery cut off is required for a True street car quicker than 11.0, A comp car quicker than 12.0 and any car were the battery is not in the standard position.make sure you get one that has the switch thingy that stops the power from the alternator.As far as a 1 piece front CHOP IT!!!!!! I can get mine on and off by myself but theres allways someone at the track to help
humpty ·
Made this yesterday....
Just need to clean it up a little, mount it in the car and run the new power cables and we are done.
essex ·
Just how big physically is this Simon?
humpty ·
essex wrote:Just how big physically is this Simon?
It's about 115x115x115mm..... This might help....
Stanley ·
That's ridiculous
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Same battery westi has in the junka and Troy has in his new car.
humpty ·
Meth?
Here's another one for the gurus.....
What sort of factors/considerations/alterations should one put in place to change over to Methanol?
And what sort of maintenance schedule is involved with living with this stuff?
modnrod ·
humpty wrote:Meth?
Here's another one for the gurus.....
What sort of factors/considerations/alterations should one put in place to change over to Methanol?
--"idle time for even cylinder heat, advance curve changes, compression ratio, needle/seat and jetting".
And what sort of maintenance schedule is involved with living with this stuff?
--"Storage life (how much you buy at a time).
Flush tank, carb and lines."
Wander on down to one of the National meets Simon, and have a chat to all the blown alky guys about the basics of converting. They will generally be happy to offer advice (unless they're thrashing).
The only people down there who have sectret-squirrel stuff is the Superstock guys (who don't run the stuff).
Oh, and the 12 sec Super Street blokes of course! 😂
humpty ·
That's a very good idea Dave..... Might have to head down to the track on a Friday night.... May as well take the POS for a blast while I'm there!!!
SuperOwen ·
Don't let it build up in the sump if your on a mag case!!!
humpty ·
Nah.... The new engine is a brand new pentroof aluminium number... But I'll be changing the oil after every event just to be sure.
humpty ·
Figuring out mounts for the Bus trans fitment.... There are a few different Bus to Bug mounts out there, but none of them are very clear on where the trans is placed.... My trans has a BERG intermediate housing with a Type 1 nose cone.... The bellhousing is the 1600 version I think.... It doesn't have the upper mounting 'ears' if that's any help....
So....
Can anyone shed any light on where the trans actually sits in the pan?.... Specifially the bellhousing.... Fore and aft location?
Does the engine sit any higher or lower in the car?
Is the diff centreline any different to a Type 1 box?... As in, the axle location vertically when viewed from the side?....
Anyone got a line on some good solid trans mounts in kit form?
humpty ·
Dave Folts sent me some pics of some axle retainer devises he has come up with for use with his axles....
There have been some instances where the uni-joint has failed with his axles, which basically has allowed the wheel, and everything still connected to it, to move around under the car uncontrolled... This devise maintains a near positive connection to the chassis should a failure occur...
He has offered to send me through a set (minus a few parts I can source here) to try out on the car.
Pretty cool idea I reckon.
whathaveidone ·
Man your still over thinking arnt you😁
Stanley ·
Looks well made and designed but why?
Dak-A-Tak ·
Its so if you brake a axle or uni joint it doesn't drop down , helps keep wheels in up right stance and pointing forward .
All about pulling up on 4wheels .
matberry ·
The slide arrangement is there to allow suspension travel, but gets to the end if a broken inner uni or axle is experienced. I'd say use it if your using his swing conversion.
As for mounting a kombi box....how long have we got?
Use the std front mount on the berg nose adapter to position the front. the rear has a few compromises to consider. Fit to engine bay, if a priority will mean offcentre output flanges and visa-versa. Height also depends on engine tin or cv clearance. I'd recommend a mockup with front mount on and juggle until your at a happy location in the engine bay. The rear mount I use or make is like the design in the pic, but altered to get the trans where I want it.
humpty ·
Looks like I just scored this for cheap!
😎
1916baja ·
ah, dont do that! now i want one! Did you get that from the same place as frosty??
humpty ·
Nup.... Picked it up locally for $140!.... It was used as a mock-up rig only.... The dude put a RCL poly seat in the FJ instead!!! 👍
Now I need to figure out the mounting of it.... Waiting for Morgan to figure that one out, so I can copy him! 😉
Stanley ·
Good score. I got mine from VPW in Melbourne.
dragvw2180 ·
humpty wrote:Nup.... Picked it up locally for $140!.... It was used as a mock-up rig only.... The dude put a RCL poly seat in the FJ instead!!! 👍
Now I need to figure out the mounting of it.... Waiting for Morgan to figure that one out, so I can copy him! 😉
Just an idea, this is how I mounted the last one I did for John Toomeys Unlimited Street car,was passed for his 8.50 cert,
Mike McCarthy
dragvw2180 ·
You can see when I did my car I installed two bottom attachments plus the rear.also 8.50 cert, Mike McCarthy
humpty ·
That's the stuff Mike.... Perfect examples right there....
Looking at your cage..... I sent a message to Chassis Works in Sacto last night enquiring about one of their products.... You had any experience with Chris' Alston's work?
dragvw2180 ·
I have never purchased anything from them but know they have some reasonable prices on quality roll cages and parts. My friend John Toomey and I purchased a tubing bender and notcher . We buy tubing in 20 ft pieces and build our own cages because it is something we can and like doing. If you would like some ideas I will email you some pics or post them here. My new chassis will be very simular to Johns but I will be using a torsion housing instead of ladder bars. Mike McCarthy
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Have a look at troys build on the tube car mate. He made the mounts and fitted a Kirkey seat in the tube car.
hypo-vw ·
hi Simon , this is how we mounted Ben Fords' seat and it past tech for super sedan . The tech inspector was very happy with it ....👍
Pork Sword ·
Simon, the RLR mount is another way to go, also comes with a back support to mount off the cage, seat can go back and forth a bit too for adjustment. Cheers, Greg
humpty ·
dragvw2180 wrote:I have never purchased anything from them but know they have some reasonable prices on quality roll cages and parts. My friend John Toomey and I purchased a tubing bender and notcher . We buy tubing in 20 ft pieces and build our own cages because it is something we can and like doing. If you would like some ideas I will email you some pics or post them here. My new chassis will be very simular to Johns but I will be using a torsion housing instead of ladder bars. Mike McCarthy
I have looked at building my own cage, but the prices for the cage including delivery from Carl is cheaper than buying the materials here!... But I will still need to modified it a little when it arrives.... Gonna get my brother to TIG it all up for me, which will also save me a few bob...
And after all that, any suggestions on how to improve the design is always greatful.... How Troy and Brad have improved on Dave's tube car has been a great source of info, as has Frosty's project.... My car is going to be a lot like Morgans of course... With a narrowed and raised torsion housing, so any details on how to do this would be awesome!
How Chris Bolton and Ben Ford have built their cages, especially the main hoop is very interesting.... I remember that Chris said it gave him more shoulder/elbow room, which has to be a good thing.
And cheers for that seat mount Greg... Appreciate that.
Pork Sword ·
No worries, also the narrowed and raised torsion housing is surprisingly easy to do once you get into it.
westi ·
humpty i am doing a bug cage at the moment and making a few odds and sod's for my beetle.let me know if you want a price to make yours up when i do the other one.
easy to do 2 at once mate.
humpty ·
westi wrote:humpty i am doing a bug cage at the moment and making a few odds and sod's for my beetle.let me know if you want a price to make yours up when i do the other one.
easy to do 2 at once mate.
Definitely be interested Brad... Prolly be easier as a flat pack though.... What do you have in mind?... Drop you a call tomorrow or next week?
westi ·
yeh flat pack for sure,but i was just sayin ,while i am doing one another wouldn't be that hard.
give me a buzz when you are ready
polak ·
hey brad, when u going to be doing that? im after a bolt in half cage for mine.....
humpty ·
westi wrote:give me a buzz when you are ready
Will do....
humpty ·
😂
hellbugged ·
Sway a way spring plates?
Where did you source them from?
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Troy drilled and tapped a grease nipple into his Spring plate retainers for the Type 3 So we can grease them. Bit fiddly but saves the bush from getting flogged!! think he cut a scroll into the bush as well.
humpty ·
hellbugged wrote:Sway a way spring plates?
Where did you source them from?
Peirside...
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:Troy drilled and tapped a grease nipple into his Spring plate retainers for the Type 3 So we can grease them. Bit fiddly but saves the bush from getting flogged!! think he cut a scroll into the bush as well.
That's a good idea.... Cheers Brennden.
humpty ·
Went racing for the first time since Christmas....
Car ran loads better..... No ignition or fuel problems now..... But.... Too much boost (20psi), too many revs (7k!) and way too much wheel spin in all gears!!!!!
1916baja ·
Times? Mph? How many runs did you end up getting?
humpty ·
Really shit times..... Low 15's at 98mph!!!!!
Off to a dyno shop tomorrow to check on timing and AFR's.
Got a NoH2O drag event happening at the end of the month, so will try to break the axles then..... Promise! 😉
whathaveidone ·
The big question is HOW MANY CHERRIES??????????😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
humpty ·
whathaveidone wrote:The big question is HOW MANY CHERRIES??????????😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
None.... In fact, my lights were pretty good given my recent form! 😂
1916baja ·
The mph is alright! Are you doing a skid at all?
whathaveidone ·
👍
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
1916baja wrote:Are you doing a skid at all?
Only in his pants lol
essex ·
1916baja wrote:The mph is alright! Are you doing a skid at all?
98mph with out a wing?
1916baja ·
Crazy! I know...
ian.mezz ·
Rose does 103mph , she has a wing on, the shelf in the back of the shop 😊
1916baja ·
I don't know how she's doing over 100mph without a wing on... That's just defies physics. 😀
whathaveidone ·
🤪🤪🤪🤪
Stanley ·
Surely you would've cracked the ton with a wing
Doug Sweetman ·
Good Mph mate.... Just need a little hook up and will be fun 🙂
rose ·
I don't think you are trying hard enough🤪🤪😂.
All this talk about drag racing gets me excitted
bring it over to Sydney in Feb so we can have a run
humpty ·
Love to Rose, but I have a drive lined up for Feb already.... 😁
Did some work on the car last night before I loaded it up.... Pulled the Boost Bleed off and re-plumbed the vacuum lines.... Noticed a couple of the hose came off the barbs way to easily... As is fell off!
The hose is not old at all, but clearly has deteriorated.... Replaced them all and used cable ties for added security this time.... Everything else checks out good, starts up so nicely now and idles a treat.... Best it has done since it was pulled off the road.... Maybe the ol'POS liked the thrashing it got on Wednesday?!
Maybe after all this I'll be able to accelerate through the timing lights instead of idling! 😉
1303Steve ·
Hi Humpty
Watch those vacuum/boost lines, my son broke a piston on his Skyline drift car when a almost new Turbosmart line fractured and the motor had only done 300,000+ ks.
Where going to hook up a Hobbs switch next time to cut fuel and ignition as an overboost safety device and use braided line instead of the silicone hose.
Steve
humpty ·
Thanks for the tip Steve.... All the lines are VW OEM (WURTH) braided hose, but will keep an eye on them in anycase.
At Ray Geneve's Dyno Centre this morning....
It's dyno time!..... But only to get the tune right.... No HP figures from these guys.... Besides.... Solid ET's will give us a good idea on that one.
whathaveidone ·
Then you can start cutting it up!!!!!!!
humpty ·
Got a spare pan to cut up.... Have most all the bits to make it happen.... Just need to call on Brad for a cage quote.... Advise taken here.
Thinking a 8 point would be the go (A and B pillar hoops, door bars, taxi and dash bars with framehorn supports).... But also thinking about mounting the trans like Frosty has... Top tubes and ali plates.... Anyone have a line on 002 trans plates?
Stanley ·
You're getting way too serious Simon...😁
hypo-vw ·
1916baja wrote:I don't know how she's doing over 100mph without a wing on... That's just defies physics. 😀
my turbo oval was doing 11.6@122mph without a wing and was still very stable on each and every run , however when I ran 10.49@128mph without a rear wing , it walked around all over the place .....
humpty ·
Stanley wrote:You're getting way too serious Simon...😁
Hell no Andrew.... I won't be painting the car black or yellow or pink.... That's serious racing right there.... In fact.... It's gonna stay an all steel car, with ali trim in the windows and everything.... Might even put the bumpers back on!😘
Doug Sweetman ·
Dyno ? Tune ? Is this really Humpty ?
Lol, should be great Simon. Bet it makes a difference !
humpty ·
Doug Sweetman wrote:Dyno ? Tune ? Is this really Humpty ?
I know right... I got this crazy idea a dyno tune could improve on my tune.... 🤪
Doug Sweetman wrote:Lol, should be great Simon. Bet it makes a difference !
Aparrently it has... Will pick it up tomorrow... Maybe I'll go for a spin!😂
humpty ·
Not a perfect session, still have a little pinging issue to sort out, but I reckon a cooler plug will sort that out.... Feels mighty strong though.... 😁
hypo-vw ·
great video Simon , looks like it has some mambo !! cant believe just how much it climbs the rollers 👍
Doug Sweetman ·
Mate I know a fair bit has changed since I saw your bug last at the motorplex, but that sounds heaps meaner ! Nice stuff indeed
matberry ·
👍👍👍
Looks strong
hypo-vw ·
humpty wrote:
Stanley wrote:You're getting way too serious Simon...😁
Might even put the bumpers back on!😘
I have moulds for stock VW early bumpers if you want to put some lightweight fibreglass ones on .....
humpty ·
Thanks fellas.... I'm pretty happy with the little engine and how it runs... It's so strong.... Hard to imagine it's still the same little 1776 that Shimo helped me build back in 93!!
It does move a far bit on the rollers, and I was kinda amazed Rick didn't have the car tied down!!???
Will change out the plug tomorow and that will be it until the next track visit on the 28th.... Terrified to try a skid though.... Those stock axles wont handle it I'm sure!!!
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
My crazy cousin with his big type 4 powered splitty's are running stock 1500 swinger box and doing skids!! He hasn't broke an axle but the box has an internal issue which it locks up and you cannot get it out of 3rd gear tll it cools down lol
That box has done 3 meets at Warwick and pretty much was an unknown when he put it in!!
Troy was running stock cv's with a late single side cover IRS box with just a super diff in the type 3 with 250hp atw. Don't shock load it and it might just surprise you!!
humpty ·
I reckon the box will hold up ok... Though I know it's taken a lot from me over the years... Sprints, hill climbs, autokanas and loads of drag racing... But all on radials... The issue is the tyres... I have M&H cheaters on there now... The fear is the axles will pop... But come Wednesday week that will be it... If they break then, then so be it. The new pan is getting built over the school holidays... Even if the new transaxle doesn't arrive before new year... At least I can mock the mounts up with a spare box.
humpty ·
Do any of you guys balance your slicks?
dangerous ·
always!
rose ·
does a wild bear shit in the woods😂😂
dragvw2180 ·
Eh Rose , that wasn't a bear it was Humpty. Mike McCarthy 🤪🤪🤪
humpty ·
That's gonna present a problem then..... Nobody does 'open centre' rim (wide 5) balancing here in Perth.
rose ·
all tyre places do them that do trucks as similar type of rim with big hole in the middle. we take ours to Beaurepaires over here no worries at all
whathaveidone ·
Hmmmmm never had mine balanced for that reason too. Thanks Rose ill give them ago. I went to 4 local shops before i gave up!!!!
matberry ·
Take a brake drum and lug nuts if you get stuck
SuperOwen ·
If you do get them balanced make sure you mark the tire to the rim, assuming your not running screws or beadlocks.
hypo-vw ·
whathaveidone wrote:Hmmmmm never had mine balanced for that reason too
I had a local engineer machine me an adaptor plate from 12mm steel plate that I bolt to my wide-5 rims with a 72mm hole in the centre and then they can be balanced easily . If you need it Ben you can borrow it to get your wheels balanced .
I will post a pic of it tomorrow........
humpty ·
That'll be awesome to see Wayne.... I had a chat to my tyre guy here in Perth about this issue.... He's a dubber too, but works on Porsches and Merc's all day.... They also look after loads of us WA dubbers.... But he has never been able to balance 205PCD rims with the large centre hole.... Though about grabbing a front drum and using that, but all options are welcome.... Looks like I'll be machining something up next week in any case.
hypo-vw ·
the steel adpator plate is the one I used to use for balancing wide-5 wheels , but now I use the alloy rear wheel adaptor plates that I had fabricated
humpty ·
That's the ticket.... Gonna have to make one of those suckers up I reckon.... I'm sure it would be heaps safer doing it this way, than letting a truck fitter near my light weight ERCO's!!!
rose ·
We had one made up but don't need to use it. As people have said that no one can balance them.
But when we took it to the tyre shop he said you don't need it we balance them on this tyre balancing machine.
Our same bloke that balances our car tyres uses the truck balancer to balance our wheels no worries.
We also have in the past borrowed the one that our VW car club has to loan out. Club Vee Dub Sydney.
humpty wrote:That's the ticket.... Gonna have to make one of those suckers up I reckon.... I'm sure it would be heaps safer doing it this way, than letting a truck fitter near my light weight ERCO's!!!
humpty ·
Hhhmmmmm..... Truck fitters hey?
Dak-A-Tak ·
Some shops just don't want to spend the time , as you have to keep turning tyre on rim , so you can find the sweet spot.
Most tyre's have heavy spots in them .
You'll end up with lots of weights , in the end ( stick on ). Put race tape over the weights to , helps hold them on .
humpty ·
It just gets better and better!.... Cheers for the advise Pete.
humpty ·
Next little chalenge....
Some time back I was looking at methods of fitting aircleaners to the Holley.... Now that I have the car running really nicely and AFR's are nice and constant, the idea of running an aircleaner has popped up again.... My question is simple on the surface, but in reality very challenging...
As you can see, there's not a lot of room in there....
I don't want to cut the engine cover to fit a funnel as Barry has, and I can't really fit an aircleaner as Rose and Ian have on the Nude Bug.... And then there is the other idea of fabricating a scoop arrangement much like Nick has on the Junka.... This idea is nice, but I'm not exactly sure how a Holley actually works.... Does it require a neutral atmosphere above the carb or can I have a positive/pressurised space above the intake?
Boostn ·
Looking good Simon, I can smell that car Holley from here....hahaha
humpty ·
Boostn wrote:Looking good Simon, I can smell that car Holley from here....hahaha
Hahahahaa.... Funny guy.... I know how you love'em!!!!
Good to see you back here mate... Looking forward to seeing what you get up to.....
That's what I like about you Ben.... Always thinking outside the box.... 😉
whathaveidone ·
👍😂👍👍
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Make your boot lid stand offs a bit longer to allow room for air cleaner. Fabricate up a base that fits on the carb that comes to a tee and run a pod filter on either side of the tee low down beside the carb body itself if there is enough room.
A conventional aircleaner wont fit Ian... And I don't really want to prop the engine cover anymore Brennden.... But I guess I might have to... Another option is one of these beasts...
Which I have and is ideal, and it would fit without some internal mods, but it's bloody heavy.... Been thinking of pulling a mold off it and making a fibreglass version.
1303Steve ·
Hi Humpty
Maybe look around for neck like the one you have from a carby LPG conversion but it may not be any lighter. Could you not fabricate a sheet alloy one up.
Steve
whathaveidone ·
Whats wrong with my idea????🙁
morgan ·
stop thinking street car and start cutting
hypo-vw ·
humpty wrote:Next little chalenge....
I could see the problem you faced as soon as I looked at the images Simon ......
HOW THA FK AM I GOING TO GET THE OTHER 2 BARRELS TO FIT IN HERE !! lol
looking good mate
essex ·
Morgan might be right!
humpty ·
Yeah I know..... No disrespect to you guys and racecars that actually look like racecars, but the idea behind the POS is that it still has to look like a street car.... Just because I like the challenge don't you know..... The hat is still an option, but I need to do some research on complex mold making..... I'm also starting to think the 'ESSEX FUNNEL OF FUN' is looking like a possible road to induction love! 😁 The car already creates a stir at the track, but that would really upset the established local racers!
Stanley ·
Jeez Simon....get another deck lid and cut. Do you think the V8 guys with holes in their bonnets worry about street car looks. When you smoke a V8 they just think of at as being beaten by a beetle not a ''street beetle'' 😉
westi ·
cut a hole,if it's gona be a fast street car.
hide it if it's gona be a slow street car.cause you don't want anyone to know that it has a turbo if it's slow.🙅
🙅🙅🙅
essex ·
I overheard someone discribing the "essex funnel of love" as a spitoon on Sunday!
No class
I think Stanley has brought your dilema into perspective here Simon.
modnrod ·
Cutting holes for scoops is fun Simon! I hope to cut a hole in the engine lid for my 1600 El Bug.......just coz I can and I'm not scared! 😁
Get with the program man!
You only make stuff look stock if it's really, truly, bloody quick, and the money goes on the bonnet........
whathaveidone ·
ESSEX FUNNEL OF LOVE!!!!!!! Did i miss something here Barry????
Yeah I know Barry.... Morgs and Ben have been on me about cutting up the car for ages.... I just find it real hard to do stuff like that.... The look is very important to me.... For instance... I really don't like those massive aluminium engine boxes that some peeps have on their cars... I understand the reasons they do it, but they still look shite!... Just like propping the engine cover further out.... It just looks stupid in my eyes.... Guess that's why I end up doing things differently or the had way if you like....
But that velocity stack hanging out the back would look kinda mad!!!!😁
humpty ·
I had attempted to fit an aircleaner much like that before Dave, but there just isn't enough room.... As this is actually a track car only these days and will never see the street again, I can get away with a stack all the time I guess.... Fortunately the motorplex is a very clean enviroment so the chance of getting crap into the intake is limited, though possible.... Though all the stacks I have found will not clear the OEM air intake, so that area will need to be 'clearanced' to make it fit.... Not really an option for me.... I think I'll be fabricating something a little different for this one..... Just like everything else on the car!
If the weather holds, I'll hit the track again tomorrow night, then tackle this problem.... We shall see which way the wind blows....😵💫
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Donaldson on the rear guard with some flexible pipe. Put a snorkel air scoop on top of the Donaldson!! Hahaha beach buggy style!! Lol
Just build a new intake and put the carby some where else
Stanley ·
humpty wrote:Yeah I know Barry.... Morgs and Ben have been on me about cutting up the car for ages.... I just find it real hard to do stuff like that.... The look is very important to me.... For instance... I really don't like those massive aluminium engine boxes that some peeps have on their cars... I understand the reasons they do it, but they still look shite!... Just like propping the engine cover further out.... It just looks stupid in my eyes.... Guess that's why I end up doing things differently or the had way if you like....
But that velocity stack hanging out the back would look kinda mad!!!!😁
I'm with you here Simon. I like my Beetles to look like Beetles. That's why I was reluctant to stick my wing on. But each to their own. At the end of the day the more volksies racing the better for all.
Now enough talk and get this shit sorted 😎
humpty ·
I'm racing tomorrow night if the weather clears.... Not looking good at the moment though. 😢
None of those aircleaners will fit Ian.... I have tried the same one that you have, and the one on the FOOSE bug is actually about the same height and diameter... It has short flange stack on the underside to clear the adjust-a-jet screw..... Thinking a velocity stack is gonna be the easiest option... Prolly by one tonight.
ian.mezz ·
20 k and you can buy the car 😊😊
.
essex ·
How did you go Simon?
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Yup c'mon spill the beans!!
humpty ·
Track was closed for the third time in a row.... Can't go tonight as I have a work thing happening (exhibition), and can't go next Wednesday as I have the Christmas schnapps and bowls night on.
Looks like no racing till after Christmas for me.... 😢
humpty ·
Ok..... I think I have the intake figured out.... I'm gonna cut shit up and fit a 10" tall velocity stack!!!!.... That'll upset the V8 fellas for sure!!!!.... And improve the flow of the intake charge slightly too...
So all good there....
And now I find I'm looking for things to do.... Something that has bugged me for years has finally been fixed.... The POS had a very small oil leak.... It's has never been a leaker this engine, but there has always been a very minor weep of oil coming from one of the 6mm sump plate studs.... It's never dropped oil, but it's always kinda bothered me...
Those of you that might remember the Bug that I built in Sydney (while hanging out at Hellbug) back in the early 90's, might also be aware that I use to use the car in Classic Rallies, Hillclimbs and Sprints....The engine and transaxle from that car, is the same gear that's in the POS.... So you can see this stuff has taken a hammering over the years.... But I digress...
The oil weep issue first surfaced after a very hard landing in an event I was competing in. I hit a massive, unmarked pothole on a transit stage in the Classic Rally back in 96... The aftermath of this landing was very nearly catastrophic... The car came down pretty nicely, after hitting a rail crossing at about 140kmh... Unfortunately right after the landing, there in front of us was the aforementioned pothole.... What happened next could have done a lot of damage, but we were very lucky.... The BERG sump hit the ground very hard, which pushed the engine up into the car, which popped off both rocker covers and broke the nose cone of the transaxle.... Needless to say I stopped the car and engine as soon as the car pulled to a very fast stop!
The story has plenty more in it, of which I might chat about later, but the reason for this leak and for me to finally, after 16 years, repair it, is now clear....
I took out the BERG supplied 6mm studs, cleaned and retapped the threads, fitted 40mm long cap screws (from the inside of the sump) with copper washes and some loctite into the thread sump flange, and proceeded to refit the very bashed up, but surprisingly straight OEM VW sumplate.... I used copper washes and nylock nuts this time too.... Hope they don't leak!
All it right in the world.
humpty ·
At the last minute, my brother decided to go to the track.... Fortunately I was about to leave the school Christmas doo.... This gave me a very convenient out..... Got to the track late, took ages to get through to scrutineering, though the actual scrutineering didn't take long.... The guys know the car!...... So out on the track I go..... Got three runs in all night, which sucked, but the times were pretty consistent....
13.980 at 101.80mph with very lazy 2.061sec 60'...
13.994 at 101.69mph with very lazy 2.062sec 60'...
And I can't find the last run, but it was another 13.9.....
Massive rev limiter action in three gears..... Car is still a little lean on boost, and the intake charge is way too cold, but all in all, I'm very happy to have cracked 13's on my first 'good' runs.
Far from perfect, but a 2 second improvement from the last attempt is a good thing.
Stanley ·
Awesome stuff Simon. 2 seconds is huge. Sounds like it's finally sorted and just a bit of tweaking needed now.
What are you revving too?
dangerous ·
Well done Simon! 👍
dangerous ·
Oh! and 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
matberry ·
Well done Simon. At last 🙂😁
1916baja ·
Good to hear you finally got some clean runs in!
reub ·
Cool dude👍
humpty ·
Cheers guys..... I wanted to crack both 100mph and 13 seconds on my first decent power runs....
These runs were very untidy as I said, with rev limiter hitting very hard (at 6500rpm) and stopping the car between gear changes, and a little lean on boost (set at 12psi, which I didn't get to), but it still managed to get the targets.... With a terminal speed like that I should be low to mid 13's I think????.... And if I can keep it off the limiter, I could fesibly crack low 13 second with what I have.... More boost, but not much more with stock 8mm studs, would 12's be possible?
Apart from the lean boost issue, what would you guys suggest I do next?
dangerous ·
Get that sixty foot time down. (raise the front will reduce the wheel spin)
Leave the engine alone except that little bit more fuel.
humpty ·
Cheers for that Dave.... You advise confirmed what my dyno guy said this morning when I rang him.... He is pretty impressed with the little mouse motor!
When I was running the car in NA form, my 60' times were down in the 1.6-1.8 pretty consistently.... If I manage something like that now, how will that effect my ET?
matberry ·
Definately low 13's in there without much work I reckon. As Dave said, sort the tune and drive it. The more you 'drive' it, the better the ET
Stanley wrote:All I see on those time slips is "lose" 😀
😂 I was gonna say the same thing! Then again that's all my time slips have said since Warwick 2011!
Doug Sweetman ·
Awesome result - 13's are stout indeed ! Amazing what a dyno tune will do !!!!
humpty ·
Stanley wrote:All I see on those time slips is "lose" 😀
Feck off! 😘
Actually.... I only won one race.... But I was chasing them down in all the others... From two lengths behind to on their doors across the line.... If I can get out of the hole nicely and stay off the limiter, I'd be there at the front for sure.... January 2nd is the next opportunity.
Stanley ·
Simon, my 1641 does 1.6 - 1.7 60fts all day. The problem I've found is I have to drive it off the line as until it comes on boost it's a 1641. I've tried dropping the clutch and have had it bog until boost comes on. However after driving the 1916 NA motor I think I've got a better method which might get them down. Time will tell.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Feed it some clutch!! I leave the line in my bus with 5000rpm on toe and feed it clutch then away we go. And my bus is prolly twice the weight of your car!! Lol
humpty ·
The problem for me a is a little different I think.... I'm still driving it like a low torque, small calibre NA engine.... Dropping the clutch at 5k!
The boost comes up really strong and 6500 redline hits very quickly, and I can't get second quick enough before the lmiter hits and kills power.... I know that longer gears will help me there, but its not in the budget, so the only other options are to launch at a lower rpm and possibly bog badly, or launch at the higher rpm and short shift or maybe try to launch in second.... I really don't think the clutch would last too long with that last option!
Still have a lot to try out and heaps to learn....
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Do what Troy did with the type 3. Loaded up the transmission on the hydraulic hand brake and dragged it into stage them bring the revs up to about 5k then as the lights drop ease the hand brake down and slip the clutch. He had a 6500rpm redline and was launching just on or under 5k.
whathaveidone ·
You could get a linelock. mount the button on the right side of your steering wheel. leave on the limiter at 6500 , box loaded up and bang it into second. your hand will already be on the shifter. set your shiftlight a few hundred rpm below where you want to shift to give you more time to react.
Do you have a longer first in the new box?????
modnrod ·
What front shocks are you using Simon? You have to get the weight to transfer to help the slicks hang on. An old set that pushes/pulls with no resistance is perfect! And as Dave said, lift the nose up, what you're aiming for is at 100mph to have the car sit flat for stability, any further nose down and your losing weight transfer, so yank it up a couple of inches and try it out.
I tried on a few manual cars (what works for me might not work for anyone else though) to actually "double-engage" the clutch, I do it on the bikes too when I leave the line. Hold the clutch in so it's not loaded at all, then time the lights and almost dump it, you're just giving your left foot a quick release, then snap the foot 1/2way back again almost straight away, then let it slide out slightly the rest of the way. The initial jerk of the foot will slam the weight back and shock the tyres, then the 1/2 stab back will load the motor enough to not break anything but should spin up the boost a bit. The whole process takes under a second, then you're out the door foot flat and boosted with weight transfer. Everyone has their own way, but this works OK for me.
Short shifting will load the boost in earlier too, so it may even be quicker to 330 if your gears are too short.
humpty ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:Do what Troy did with the type 3. Loaded up the transmission on the hydraulic hand brake and dragged it into stage them bring the revs up to about 5k then as the lights drop ease the hand brake down and slip the clutch. He had a 6500rpm redline and was launching just on or under 5k.
That is what I do.... But the limit arrives before I'm ready for it.... Gotta shift quicker.
This is what's in the new trans Ben....
The car is launching very hard and straight, and feels good a stable in the top end.... It's a pretty tidy and fast launch... Then it falls on its face.... It's running out of gears.... I'm sure that's 'all' I need.... Shifting into second sooner is the key.
I reckon I'll pull the Black Mamba shifter and fit the BERG back in too.... It's less notch on the shift and hopefully this will make my shifts quicker and more consistent.
whathaveidone ·
Gee Modnrod that sounds waaaaay complicated. Im flat out remembering to shift into second let alone dip it before i leave. I take my hat off to you for getting that down pat👍👍🤪👍
Boostn ·
just move the limiter up...problem solved
humpty ·
Boostn wrote:just move the limiter up...problem solved
How long do you reckon an ENGLE 120, with an eight dowelled DMS 69mm crank, BERG HD Nut on a 9lbs FW and BERG valve springs will last at 7000rpm? 🤪
Boostn ·
for ages, turn the boost up while your there
Boostn ·
put some heavier springs in if you have to?
the biggest killer of an engine is bad tune up!!!!!!!
modnrod ·
whathaveidone wrote:Gee Modnrod that sounds waaaaay complicated. Im flat out remembering to shift into second let alone dip it before i leave.
Uhmm, yeah, reading it now, it does doesn't it? 😂
NA is so much easier, floor it off idle on the 2nd yellow, sidestep it on the last, easy-peasy.
Stanley ·
Boostn wrote:just move the limiter up...problem solved
Or move the shift light down so it doesn't bounce off the limiter if you're worried.
SuperOwen ·
Don't you have megajolt ignition on this car? Can you set it up as a 2 step to build a bit of boost on the line quicker?
dragvw2180 ·
Again, just some insight from an old man. With a turbo you need to have a 2 step and leave at full throttle. I set my lower rpm module at 5600 rpm's and set my upper at 8000 ( fk10 camshaft / Kawell grind ) my shift point is 7200 rpm's. If you have your timing set around 24 degrees and go full throttle at 5600 you should build some boost. The instant that you let the clutch out you will go up on your boost immediately. I never had the time to watch my shift light in first gear ( 3.78/ 3.88r/p on 26 in slicks} so as soon as I felt my arse push down into the seat I shifted into second. I have a line lock tied into the same button so the car will not roll after staging. Your rpm's and shift points will be differant than mine and will just take some experimenting. Here is an old video of my car with the old 2275 engine. The first pass is leaving by revving the engine up and dumping the clutch. Second and third passes are leaving on the 2 step, watch the 60 ft times.
Good luck, Mike McCarthy
dangerous ·
Mike and Stanley are onto it with the shift light setting.
If they are too close to each other you will hit the upper limit all the time.
Mine at 8000 and 8400 are still to close, especially in low gear...I reckon a fair generic start point is about 500 rpm difference as a minimum.
I have no experience personally with the 120 but I like its numbers,
and my own 1775cc with 130 cam was sweet to 7000 run after run.
I DID step up to some bigger springs eventually when I went 7500,
but the scat or berg duals worked fine for 7000.
Just get some more runs on it Simon and pay around with all your RPM settings.
Seat time will always make you faster, and it is fun too!!
One more piece of advice: DONT COMPLICATE SIMPLE THINGS.
Just get out there and drive it!
humpty ·
The car is running very nicely, still need to get the fuel exactly right, and I might try a hotter plug on the 9th.... But the 2nd will be just more seat time and getting that redline and limiter relationship sorted... The idea of stepping the two has crossed my mind..... I'll head down the shed in a sec set both of them.... Might move the max rev up a little too... But really the problem is all me here.... I'm still use to how the car ran in NA form.... I need to figure out how the turbo works at the track.... When this car was a street car and I had the DCOE on there, it was a pretty easy drive.... Though a little fuelly at times..... But now that I have the Megajolt working well, and the Holley is running so sweetly, the driver needs to catch up to the car!
A two step would be nice Mike and Owen, but as far as I know, nobody has made one work with the MJLJ ignition.... Still looking into that.... I might be able to use a micro switch to activate a staging map to excelleration map switch.... I'm just not sure if the ECU can handle that sort of thing.
As I'm running BERG dual springs, retainers and collets the valve train can possibly handle it.... But there are many miles on these parts... Not really interested in upgrading them, as the 2275 is on the shelf and ready to build.... Just need to save my pennies for longer cylinders, then it's time to build.
Getting the car to launch is not really an issue at the moment.... It's actually doing a pretty good job there.... Still running stock torsions and new german bushes and springplates without any form of limiter, so there is plenty to do under there later....
Like you say.... It's seat time that I need....
Cheers for that advise everyone.... Really appreciate it....
All the best for the silly season!
humpty ·
Hahahahahhaa..... I feel like a 4x4 owner now....
Large enough?
essex ·
geez Simon, thats right out there!
will the wing fit over it?
hypo-vw ·
I think he is just trying to out-do Ben Ford ...... yep and he has suceeded !!
that looks mad simon 👍👍 but are you trying to compensate for something lacking ?? 😂😂 or is the robust size of this intake funnel supposed to attact the crowds attention so that they dont notice the cherries 😂😂
humpty ·
Yeah Wayne.... I'm feeling kind of insecure around Ben these days..... So I had to come up with something.... When I lash out and buy myself one of those fancy 'BigWig' Wings off Barry, then I'll take a can opener to it and put the funnel through it....
Or maybe I just sell it all and buy a 4x4....😁
whathaveidone ·
Cut cut cut!!!!! You will still get a decklid on!!!!!
hypo-vw ·
humpty wrote:When I lash out and buy myself one of those fancy 'BigWig' Wings off Barry
has Barry ordered a wing for you Simon ?? if not I have 3 on the way right now .......
whathaveidone ·
dont let them talk you into it simon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
whathaveidone ·
Dont join the club!!!!!!!!!
whathaveidone ·
😂😂
humpty ·
whathaveidone wrote:Cut cut cut!!!!! You will still get a decklid on!!!!!
Oh I'll make it fit....
whathaveidone wrote:Dont join the club!!!!!!!!!
And not until I get into the 10's..... Promise.
whathaveidone ·
cool, you stillhave a bed here!!!
humpty ·
whathaveidone wrote:cool, you stillhave a bed here!!!
Feeeeuuuwww... That was close.😘
Stanley ·
whathaveidone wrote:Dont join the club!!!!!!!!!
Still pissed we would'nt let you in hey Ben 😂
essex ·
Don't listen to Ben,
get yourself one of those wings!
hypo-vw ·
humpty wrote:Hahahahahhaa..... I feel like a 4x4 owner now....
Large enough?
love the cooling fan in the first 2 pics , but I cant seem to see the 400m of lead that comes with it ....😂😂
humpty ·
That's in the back of the Bus WP....
humpty ·
Made it fit....
hypo-vw ·
that looks awesome Simon !! dont know why Hitler did get Dr Porsche to design them like that from the start 😂😂
humpty ·
hypo-vw wrote:that looks awesome Simon !! dont know why Hitler did get Dr Porsche to design them like that from the start 😂😂
Yeah your right.... I mean... The air would be so much cleaner there...
Form follows function.... It's the Bauhaus way!
Doug Sweetman ·
Nice work Simon ! You running tomorrow ? I might pop down to have a geezer ....
Off topic a little - how did you go about mounting your chopper wheel for the mega jolt install ? .... Jut curious is all....
humpty ·
Yep I'll be there Doug.... Heading out to the shed shortly to load up....
And this is how I mounted the 36-1 wheel....
With spacers between the wheel and the pulley (that Dave Stoker made for me back the early 90's!).. The spacers are needed to get the sensor to line up nicely with the centre of the wheel and clear the pulley.
ian.mezz ·
you wont see much of that once the Wings on.
humpty wrote:Made it fit....
Doug Sweetman ·
Thanks Simon, appreciate the detail. Good luck tonite !
humpty ·
ian.mezz wrote:you wont see much of that once the Wings on.
Hahahahaha.... Funny guy.😘
humpty ·
Intake worked well, in fact.... It works extremely well... The car felt very strong and way cleaner AFR's... I also put more fuel in too, which has not effected the low speed AFR's, but the high speed/boost AFR's are looking very nice with no more lean out in the top end....
But not all news from tonights racing is good.... The clutch is not handling the boost.
Time for an upgrade in the clutch department..... Suggestions?
Doug Sweetman ·
I was wondering what was the issues getting it off the line.... Still a 14.0 with clutch slip is encouraging !
humpty ·
Yeah it was pretty bad Doug.... Just could not get any load on the engine at all.... Out of the hole, the car was pretty good.... Had the measure of all the opponents to third gear, but in top when the torque would pile on, the clutch would drop it's bundle.... Thought it better to load up and go home.... Rang Rodney this morning, and I have a new Stage 3 on the way.... The KEP Gold disc will be more than likely ok according to Rodney, so if all is good, I'll dust it off, and put it all back together....
Gonna fit a BERG welded fan while the engine is out.... I have chanced the likelyhood of the fan exploding long enough... Might even give the engine tin a coat of paint and some new intake seals while I'm there..... Crazy I know. 😉
reub ·
you.. paint.. huh? 😂
I'd imagine iron paint maybe...
morgan ·
That thing looks freakin awsome.
whathaveidone ·
Iron is too heavy😁
humpty ·
whathaveidone wrote:Iron is too heavy😁
So is paint.....😘
1916baja ·
where did you get that thing simon??
modnrod ·
Still rekn you need a string of LEDs around that chimney, just in case it's not noticed......... 😀
Good times for 3 slipping gears. Onya Humpty!
humpty ·
1916baja wrote:where did you get that thing simon??
A jet boat shop in the US.... Via eBay.
modnrod wrote:Still rekn you need a string of LEDs around that chimney, just in case it's not noticed......... 😀
Good times for 3 slipping gears. Onya Humpty!
I'll leave the LED's to you Dave.... But thanks for the props... I'm sure the car will be quick when I get the forward motion bit under control.
Doug Sweetman ·
Welded fan - one less thing to worry about at 7000rpm. Good idea.
Bugger about the clutch though, least its not a real big deal to change. Hope your rear valance is removable.....
humpty ·
Doug Sweetman wrote:Hope your rear valance is removable.....
😉
humpty ·
Engine is out for the first time in 3 years....
Almost forgot how to do it!!!!
Got to replace the axle gators, pull the PP off the FW and fit the new Stage III KEP PP in there when that arrives... Will change the front seal while I'm here, and pull the cooling fan off and whack in the BERG welded/balanced fan....
Also... Reub was over this morning, and we pulled the body of the 'new' pan.... And he started on stripping the suspension off that... Will prolly have that finished tomorrow, then I'll be ready to make a start on the narrowing and lifting of the torsion housing.
Fun times ahead!
humpty ·
Blatant iPhone plug here...
humpty ·
Started on the new pan today.... Pie cut will be done tomorrow, then it's off with the framehorns!
Doug Sweetman ·
New pan ?
How goes the clutch woes ? Still waiting on bits ?
humpty ·
Like Morgan, I'm building a new purpose built pan for the POS.... On account of the FOLTS 091 transaxle I bought a while back.... It's due to arrive at the end of the month.... Unlike Morgan I have very little skill, and will prolly make a right cockup of it.... But here goes anyway.
The spec is as follows:
Flat pan the battery tray sections.
Cut all the crap out of the tunnel and close up all the non-essential holes.
FOLTS spec 091 transaxle with FOLTS spool and axles, with turbo spec gears.
Pie cut the frame head.
Torsion lift 75mm using DLX torsion lift plates.
Torsion narrowing to suit the FOLTS axles (3" per side).
Solid bus mounts from DLX Ironworks.
JCL springplate retainers.
Sway-Away springplates.
A steering brake will be plumbed in to use as a burnout/staging brake.
Most likely fit a hydralic clutch setup too.
And finally.... Most likely a cage from Westi.
In the meantime.... I'm waiting on the clutch to arrive.... I have fitted the BERG cooling fan and cleaned my shed!
essex ·
Good luck Simon, sounds good.
humpty ·
essex wrote:Good luck Simon, sounds good.
Cheers Barry....
Back in the shed this morning.... Wanna have the pan completely clean today (stripped it yesterday), then it's on to marking the pie cut.
Fun times!
matberry ·
Sounds like your enthusiastic Simon....power on dude.👍
Stanley ·
God speed Humpty....we want pics too
humpty ·
Made a start on the new pan today....
Took 6 hours to clean it up, then I rolled it into the shed....
Then I started cuttin on stuff!
Then I cut the framehead for more caster....
Pulled the shift rod, and opened up the front inspection plate... Tomorrow's jobs are to pull the rest of the stuff from inside the tunnel and weld up the pie cut.... Then is onto the torsion housing chop, chop!
humpty ·
Got a question for Dave B if he's watching..... I'm thinking of running a hydralic throwout bearing inside the 091 transaxle.... Actioned by a MC that will be mounted much like Henry's setup in his car.... If I remember correctly, that sort of TO is what you have in your car correct?... If you don't mind me asking, how is it mounted and hooked up?
whathaveidone ·
Bout time you started chop chop instead of think think😂
humpty ·
Ooops!
😂
dangerous ·
humpty wrote:Got a question for Dave B if he's watching..... I'm thinking of running a hydralic throwout bearing inside the 091 transaxle.... Actioned by a MC that will be mounted much like Henry's setup in his car.... If I remember correctly, that sort of TO is what you have in your car correct?... If you don't mind me asking, how is it mounted and hooked up?
I still run cable on mine Simon.
That Saab TO bearing was for the 930 trans.
The VW bells are too shallow for that style.
I am sure something custom could be made, but I like a simple cable my self.
humpty ·
Cheers Dave.... The hydralic clutch management systems that are out there, are very attractive options.... Still not sure which way I'll go, but it's worth waying it all up.
Stanley ·
I agree with DB. Unless you're running some super clutch with a gazillion lbs of force. IMO i'd stick to a cable and spend the money and effort somwhere else.
westi ·
Cable for me 2.
Why does every one cut the rear ends of like this.
Pagey's ,morgs and you.please explain. I can't see why u wouldn't move the tube only.
Or get a secondary tube to relocate and remove yours once done or buy a couple of hym joints and some coil overs and make your tags like in mike waldrons car. It cheap and easy.
And less chance of fuckin up geometry . And all the tubes for cables are still left in place an un damaged.
If you value you your own time as money people . Check out mikes set up.
I didn't mean to sound mean . I am just amazed that everyone hak's the strongest part of a Vw pan apart.
Nice work though.
matberry ·
I'm with Westi as above, cable clutch is a no brainer, esay to repair, already in the car and light and reiable.
My first tranny raise in the mid nineties I raised the torsion tube only. The plated verticly method is so wrong from an engineering stand-point I also can't believe people are doing it. The plate is adding weight and gusseting it to sheet metal in the centre of the tube is creating a highly stressed area that IMO is unsatisfactory.
Where do you get to see a pic of Mike's set up?
Have I missed something?
cheers
modnrod ·
HAHAHA! You tell 'em!
If all you need to do is lower the rear a couple of inches for stability, then why not just buy Hoosier "soft" 23" x 8" on a 13" rim? The sidewall is the same height as a 26.5x15, so same wrinkle for traction, the 13x7 steel rims are light as crap so less HP used to turn them at the top end..........
Actually no, don't do that. I'm enjoying the to-and-fro!
Simon, you go right aheead and cut whatever you like, don't listen to the know-it-alls! 😁
humpty ·
It's comes down to costs and the effective outcome.... This method has got less than 100 bux in it.... But there is much more to it than that.....
The course of modification action for me was brought on by the purchase of the 091 trans with the FOLTS axles.... Before the purchase of the transaxle, I had no intension of doing this. But needs must and all that.... For me the primary reason is to get the car down, flat and safe.... I have seen many a traditional height and suspended car lose it at the top end.... This of course is on account of many factors, not just height, but what I have noticed is that cars that sit closer to the deck, are near level and have plenty of tunable suspension in both the upward and downward strokes, tended to be far more stable in all areas of the race...
Sorry Matt, but I can't agree with you there..... Back in the day, that method was common practice I know, but the idea of fitting another torsion housing on top of the pan was not a good idea IMHO.... The need for extra bracing was higher for starters, but the framehorn position would still need to be corrected in some manner.... Either with massive trans lifts, or another set of horns, or maybe a RLR style backhalf graft.... All more complex, more weight, and more hassle.... This method just repositions what is already there.... I had considered going with a 4 bar setup at one point, but the numbers didn't add up... There is over 500 clams just in the shocks needed to make a 4 bar work.... Then you have the links, rose joints and material costs.... It's a high dollar option in comparison.... I also want to keep as much of the OG steel in the car because that's I wanted too.... Difficult to do with 32" long trailing links bolted to the rear of your seat!..... Heck.... I wanted to keep the OG interior in there at one point, but that is heading for the skip in the name of safety.
The of course we have Modnrods idea of running smaller diameter tyres to get the ride height down.... This is fine on my other sprint/autokana car where I only use three gears, but not much good on a quarter mile car.... As you know, gear ratios need to be considered.... Being a turbo car, I can pull longer gears than a similarly capacity NA car.... To take full advantage of that, the tyres diameter is an effective gear ratio multiplier unto itself.... To achieve the final drive that I require to cross the line at a reasonable rpm/mph/et is in part, dictated by the rolling diameter of the tyre.
SuperOwen ·
humpty wrote:but what I have noticed is that cars that sit closer to the deck, are near level and have plenty of tunable suspension in both the upward and downward strokes, tended to be far more stable in all areas of the race...
Not trying to be a smartarse but plenty of low and adjustable cars have ended up on their lids. If you're serious you're still going to need good shocks and suitable torsions.
Otherwise looks good 👍
modnrod ·
We're only joking around Mr Hump........
.......and enjoying the show. 👍
humpty ·
SuperOwen wrote:
humpty wrote:but what I have noticed is that cars that sit closer to the deck, are near level and have plenty of tunable suspension in both the upward and downward strokes, tended to be far more stable in all areas of the race...
Not trying to be a smartarse but plenty of low and adjustable cars have ended up on their lids. If you're serious you're still going to need good shocks and suitable torsions.
Otherwise looks good 👍
Like I said.... There is much more to it than just ride height... The main point behind lowering the car is obvious and I should'nt have to explain this here... And I wouldn't be doing this if I wasn't serious.... I have the shocks that currently fit into my budget... They are not the best, but I can't justify blowing wads of cash on components that are currently not required.... The torsions are currently stock, as that is all that I need now.... The car runs straight and hooks up well.... But as hp and torque increases , so will the upgrades, as with any modified car.
matberry ·
All good Simon (altho I'm for a reloccate, not another torsion tube) I'm glad you don't agree as otherwise you wouldn't be happy with what you've done 😉
Keep up the good work. 👍
modnrod ·
Hey Mat.
Your "W" key has fallen down.......
Stanley ·
I'm gonna be Switzerland here as i can see pro's and cons for both. Keep up the good work though humpty.
Matt use the v key twice....vv...until you can get a w key 😀
humpty ·
Open forums are good for this sort of debate.... I understood what you meant Mat.... Leaving the torsion in the stock location and adding another would be madness, though I have seen it on off road cars.... But they were using both housings too.... Crazy stuff!!!
Hope to get to the fuel lines at some point.... Figuring on doing it before I do the cage, but making it easy to pull from the car should I need to at anytime.... Planning on running the new fuel lines through the tunnel too... With easy access at either end and dash fittings too, but my concern is with the soild lines in the tunnel.... Do you guys reckon a single P clip or something similar, would be sufficient to hold the lines in place?... I plan to fit sections of rubber hose aling the pipe as well to keep the vibration to a minimum.
essex ·
Wouldnt you be better off running new fuel lines, forget inside the tunnel.
By the way Simon, I liked your response to Brad's comment earlier on.
ian.mezz ·
fuel lines under the car and throttle and clutch cables out side of the tunnel toooo.
put a adjuster in clutch cable at front, so easier to adjust at track and no getting under hot engine.
humpty ·
The throttle and clutch (if I don't go hydraulic) cables will remain in the stock locations, but why put the fuel lines under the car?... Remembering this car will be quite low.... My concerns are that my trailer is a full height deal with suspension and all.... Though I have some ideas on how to make it a little lower.
Dak-A-Tak ·
Under View , I did my car this way becouse , mine is 4inch plus 1inch trans lift , way more then you can get by lifting only torsion tube ( 3inch on front beam too ) . Mount plate (about 4 foot in welding ) has a huge hole from centre and fuel lines are pushloc laying in tunnel ( zip tied in ) but bulk head fittings at each end ( blue fittings in pic)
What give lift plate strengh is rollcage tie ins , to stop forks pushing up . Torsion tube has roll cage tie ins at out edges to.
Just spend time on centre line and level all directions when rewelding up .
You will need bigger torsion bars ( 27 mm 28mm ?) Weight of car and engine power gaven this .
Have FUN !!
whathaveidone ·
"What give lift plate strengh is rollcage tie ins , to stop forks pushing up . Torsion tube has roll cage tie ins at out edges to"
Thats what I was thinking Pete. With it all tied in wouldnt it be just as,or stronger than original???
matberry ·
Yes Pete, strength from the cage is added, I agree, doesn't alter the fact the connection is weaker and heavier than stock.
Not that it makes much difference, but the load on the forks is a downward force. The only upward force is applied from the wheelie bars and they aren't strong so load is minimal when compared to a launch off the line. Any axle tramp or 'issue's' on the line and we're talking shock loading and that is where fatigue will eventually highlight a weaker connection.
Sorry for the high-jack Humpty.
Dak-A-Tak ·
Mat , Well I don't agree .Who cares if its a heavier becouse you save weight in other area's and car has way more engine power .Yes , force is down but forks bend up . Good shocks are your best freind . Take off control and gear box saver .
Ben , way more then standard , we are talking about a drag car here .
Torsion tube half moon welded in , on top of forks will never be as strong . Unless you tie it all in .
My car is the exstream side of this type of mod , Humpty
Again have FUN !!🤓
humpty ·
That is exactly what I plan to do.... The idea that fitting the torsion housing to the top of the frame horns, is not nearly as strong.... The extra gusseting required to get the strength back will put heaps more weight into the car.... Then you have the issue of the frame horns now being too far from the transaxle... Maybe not a huge issue with an IRS car, but with a Swinger its a major one... Taller trans mounts kinda defeats the purpose of all this effort, and potentially adds even more potential failure points.... Hence the practice of moving the whole lot up as a unit..... I can see where you coming from in regards to the loss of shear strength at the cut, but truthfully, the material there is very flimsy to begin with.... Furthermore, the additions that are needed to make this mod a success move the forces fore and aft of the cut, strengthen the original weak points and direct the loads forward into the cage and chassis, and ultimately to the track, via tractive effort.
The extra stuff that Pete has done to his car, is pretty common practice in this day and age.... Doing this mod without adding the extra cage links is a very bad idea.... The POS has finally made the step from street to race (much to the applause of Ben and Morgan no doubt), but that does not mean it shouldn't look like a street car.... That is what I am trying to achieve here.... While I can appreciate the amazing cars that you all have built, I don't like loud racer paint.... I like the subtle car... Stock trim and stock paint, but with balls out engineering and performance... And this is what I want to build.
And don't worry about high jacking the thread Mat.... This is exactly why these forums exist.... To chat and critique the builds, feeding into the ideas, and suporting the progress of others...
whathaveidone ·
Can i just add. if you take mogans brown bug for example. his standard forks are twisting with the extra hp. so the need to be braced. i dont see the dofference in bracing the in the standard position or 100mm higher. If its welded properly and braced its all an advantage IMO
SuperOwen ·
If it were mine I would triangulate the forks with large gusset on the underside of the forks as well. Maybe overkill though?
One thing no one has commented on is how raising the torsion housing and therefore IC of the trailing arm (spring plate in this case) affects the launch characteristics of the car. I've been doing a bit of reading on typical front engined setups but has anyone got their heads around VW's anti squat characteristics etc? Maybe a topic for another thread
whathaveidone ·
Look at morgans. He has done just that.
westi ·
Can of worms . Love it.
The torsion housing is not strong enough on its own with out bracing.
So wether you leave it ,or move it ,it needs to be braced.
Frame horns in standard form in which they were pressed are stronger than one that have been cut off completely and re-welded.
This is for the same reason you are not allowed to cut and shut chassis.
Metal gets over heated . Welded incorrectly , blah , blah, blah.usually cracks next to the weld .
There are so many other cheap and strong ways off doing theses things. But if you don't know off them cool. Please don't preach that it is the best way to suit your budget and that's why u did it.it was silly to think this way . As you said this is a forum .ask first then cut.my belief anyhow. I love that people give things a red hot crack . But ask if you don't know.there is an awesome wealth off knowledge on this forum with guys that have been around a very long time. Some off which were idols off mine when I was growing up and wishing to go race with.
So I reakon if your time isn't a factor as the labor wise, and you buy all the bits needed new , all can be purchased new from summit for around $350-400 and metal cost 50-60 so if you have spent more than that . You are definatly doing it the wrong way. Engineering wise.
My 2 cents
Stanley ·
Have you got a pic you can post here brad so we can get a comparison?
Anything can be strenghtened by gussets and triangulation etc to restore strength to original or better but this normally comes with a weight increase. Assuming also welding is of a good standard.
This is a good discussion.
SuperOwen ·
Here's an idea.... Put the stock chassis in a big press and put a big bend in the centre of it like a banana. This would lower the car and increase caster all in one hit with no welding. Great ideas like this are why I'm becoming an engineer 😁
whathaveidone ·
God help us!!!!
Stanley ·
SuperOwen wrote:Here's an idea.... Put the stock chassis in a big press and put a big bend in the centre of it like a banana. This would lower the car and increase caster all in one hit with no welding. Great ideas like this are why I'm becoming an engineer 😁
Then get the body to fit 🤪
SuperOwen ·
What? You no like my idea?? Here's another one....Try using massively tall rear tyres so your car is always rolling downhill. Should be good for a few tenths.
SuperOwen ·
Stanley wrote:
SuperOwen wrote:Here's an idea.... Put the stock chassis in a big press and put a big bend in the centre of it like a banana. This would lower the car and increase caster all in one hit with no welding. Great ideas like this are why I'm becoming an engineer 😁
Then get the body to fit 🤪
pie cut 😂
westi ·
I might have some, I'd have to go throught my old pics, I'll see what I can find
humpty ·
All mods will be gusseted.... You would be mad not to with this sort of upgrade, but it's a given really if you are planning to run a hipo car with slicks and cage.
The OEM framehorns need a lot help to stay together even with a mild car.... I noted a lot of movement with my last street/track car.... That's one of the reasons Kafer bars, and tramp bars exist in the performance world.... I seam welded the framehorns in my last street car, in an effort to control the movement and seem separation the car was experiencing....
In the case of this car, the frame horns will have pipe sections included on the bottom edge (much like the BIGWIG car and Morgan has done) from the primary plate to the near tip of the frame horns, the top of the primary plate will be gusseted going forward, the torsion will have at least two takeoffs to the cage on either side, as will the upper frame horns along with the top most bellhousing mount.
As for asking for advise.... I have been asking about and researching this particular mod for the past two years.... Only commited to it when the 091 trans came up last October... Then I ask about specfics on numerous occasions, from numerous sources.... And not just here.... On UAC, STF and theSamba too...
Those coilover shocks that Ben just bought are nearly 600 US each!!!!... And he still needs to source the springs.... My budget must be considered Brad.... I just can't justify that sort of coin... Then I have the fabrication costs... In my case, a bit of gas and some wire for the MIG.... How many hours of machining and tig would it take to build a set of links?.... In my case I have about $600 in my rear suspension (bars, retainers and springplates) and another $90 in the torsion lift... The next major expense (some time in the future) I am looking at is some QA-1's, which are in the region of $250US each from Summit... For me, this is big league stuff, so all other options are welcome and will be entertained.
SuperOwen ·
Back to being sensible...what are the longterm goals with this car hp and ET wise? Sorry if it's in the last 30 pages somewhere.
essex ·
I'd be keen to see some pics,
humpty ·
SuperOwen wrote:Back to being sensible...what are the longterm goals with this car hp and ET wise? Sorry if it's in the last 30 pages somewhere.
A pretty mild tune for a stroker turbo car actually Owen.... Accourding to those that know more than I, my new engine should be good for an easy 300hp and hopefully similar torque.... I have built the engine to be able to boost to 20 plus psi, but will try to keep a lid at around 15-18psi.... Depends on the red mist factor there.... The trans and axles are good for 500hp according to Dave Folts.... I'm looking for a car that is capable of a 10 second quarter in a perfect world and with a driver capable of doing so... I doubt I will ever have that sort of skill.
As I have said before... This not a street car.... It will just look sorta like one.... I haven't seen too many Aussie cars of the style that truly interests me.... Nick's Junka comes very close though.... I guess I kinda like cars in the vain of Larry Menniti's car or Doug Colley's.... Both from from California.... Subtle, but tough.
Back to the project.... I got some more done today, but nothing interesting.... Just pulled the tubes from the tunnel I don't need, cut the jack points, and the cast pan supports left over from cutting the torsion housing.... I also tacked the primary plate to the torsion housing.... Hopefully finish weld that tomorrow, then its time to source a large pipe cutter and start on the beam narrowing.
westi ·
I hear what your saying humpty.
But all I am saying is there is a quicker and easier way to achieve the same result.
Doesn't have to be 4 link .
2 link is fine .
Without pics or drawing it is hard to explain. But there are so many better options , and before people chop it would be great for them to think out side the square.
Monkey see monkey do Was around long before the Internet . That's why nothing on my car is the same as anyone else's . I wanted people to challenge the way things are done. Get an idea and throw it out there.
When a chop is performed there are so many other things you will need to spend money on.
Like clutch . Accel cable . These now make your budget bigger than if you had left it so that must be part of the new budget . .
That's it for me until I can find you some pic's.
humpty ·
That conversation we had back at Warwick helped me a lot, but after I did the numbers, and weighing in my skills and what is possible with my contacts in this part of the world, I went the way I have done.... A tried and true method, with loads of positive results.... The way you have done it has worked for you, and I have seen that others have done similar things... Who knows... I might even redo this thing, or build another one day, and your ideas could well be tapped for that.... Total respect for what you have acheived Brad... There are so many ways to skin that cat.
And if you do manage to find some pics, I for one would love to see alternatives.
westi ·
one option
modnrod ·
Nice.
Simple, clean, easily adjustable traction bars.
For a real "cheap-as-chips" option, I've seen a few guys substitute McPherson struts from old Dattos for the Strange coil-overs.
A few of these guys over here are now running Supercharged Outlaws and Doorslammers..........
westi ·
i think its the cheapest and cleanest option.you could do a multi hole bracket aswell so if you want to change the height it is as simple as moving up or down the holes.
there are some others for cv cars aswell,but i will be diggin deap to fine them.
humpty ·
That's a very cool option Brad.... I remember you telling about this kinda thing before... I just couldn't see how you locate the wheel laterally...
I know people have said the FOLTS unijoint setup can break and it has the potential of a total loss of alignment, but at least I know the FOLTS axle is good for way more power than I will produce... Good race swingaxle are hard to source these days so hear... Not having seriously looked into the stock style HD axle, I have no idea if this is true... But like I said... This FOLTS 091 came up for an amazing price, which really dictated all the other mods.
Cheers for finding that pic though.... It's a very interesting idea.
modnrod ·
humpty wrote:I just couldn't see how you locate the wheel laterally...
A triangular link from a another mount near the back of the box, like std IRS but with with adjusters for length?
A horizontal link from the side of the box, level with CV shaft, attached to a cage over the box from the horns?
The last one you might want to consider as an axle retainer for when you runs 9s Mr Hump.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Weld pivot boxes onto torsion housing and modify some bay kombi trailing arms. Bit of work far from impossible. At least bay kombi arms are smaller in diameter especially if room is minimal.
humpty ·
The clutch has finally arrived.... Might be able to put the POS back together now.... Racing next week?
Doug Sweetman ·
Sweet 🙂 make some noise....
humpty ·
Had some more time on the POS today....
Might get to fitting the new clutch tomorrow, and get the car running.... Got some some more work to do on the Ghia tomorrow too.... Busy, busy.
Doug Sweetman ·
Verily your cup doth runneth over with opportunity 🙂 enjoy !
matberry ·
Doug Sweetman wrote:Verily your cup doth runneth over with opportunity 🙂 enjoy !
😂
humpty ·
matberry wrote:
Doug Sweetman wrote:Verily your cup doth runneth over with opportunity 🙂 enjoy !
Got the engine back together and the clutch on... Might get it back in the car tonight when my mate John is done with the Ghia repairs on the drivers side.
Stanley ·
Hey Simon...I noticed your using the same blue flexible hose between your carb manifold and turbo.
I pulled mine off on the weekend and noticed it was deteriorating where I believe it comes in contact with fuel.
I've noticed it before where my intake manifold joins the head manifolds. Although it's heat resistance I don't think it's fuel resistant.
Probably wouldn't be an issue in a blow through setup. The first layer of rubber (red I think) is gone.
humpty ·
Really?.... Holy cow, thats not real good.... Better have a gander at that and correct if need be.
Cheers for the info Andrew.
humpty ·
So I've been spending some quality time with the KG these past couple weeks, getting the sills and the doors solid. But all the while the POS has been waiting patiently for me to move it back into the shed... The time has come to put the engine back in and hit the track next week. The timing is good, cause Reubs coming ver tomorrow morning to work on the Paprika.... Tom Laube is in town too, and I think he's keen to come by the shed for a session on the dubs... Tomorrow is looking good for the POS I'd say.... The new transaxle still hasn't cleared customs, but I do have the mounts for it, so if I have time tomorrow I might get back onto the pan....
Also.... I'm thinking the POS is gonna get a little heavy being all steel and adding a cage in the old girl, so I've been looking at ways to counter the extra heft I have to carry in the car.... And yes.... I have been losing a little weight off myself too, but I think the car could stand to loose a few lbs too.... Looking at Mike's car and a couple out of Europe, the idea of cutting out the inner guards at the front, and the inner door skins and quarter panel skins is looking likely... Just cause I want the car to look stock, I still want to run oem style door cards and such, but will ultimately make some light weight ones, and possible fit plastic side glass in the oem rubbers.... Which brings me to my next question....
Would an Ali beam be strong enough for an all steel car?
humpty ·
It's back in and wired up.... Just need to remake/improve the apron mounting method and add some fuel.... Off to the track on Wednesday I reckon!
Got these made up by a mate....
They will make the refitting of the cut torsion tubes much easier.
whathaveidone ·
good work!!! Looks different with those wheels on.
whathaveidone ·
there sleves right????
hypo-vw ·
humpty wrote:Would an Ali beam be strong enough for an all steel car?
Hi Simon , I have run an alloy beam in my turbo oval (full steel , glass , interior & 1840lbs ) on the street for many years and it has been fine with careful driving in mind . I do not drive my oval around corners like the blue WPVW sports sedan and always have it in the back of my mind that the alloy beam is not as strong as a steel beam .
I had a scary moment on the street back in 2005 when I took a mate for a 'quick' drive locally and accelerated to approx 200kph rapidly and had to negotiate what seemed like a slight bend in the road before braking and turning back into my work street .
As I passed thru the bend I realised that it wasn't going to happen as I had planned and I drifted across the neighbouring 2 lanes to keep the car stable without applying too much pressure to the alloy beam . We returned to WPVW safely with my mate a rather pale shade of grey , to discover that the right front tyre had made contact with the guard and the front beam had shifted 10mm in the framehead .
I would strongly recommend chassis stiffener bars from the pan to the lower beam tube if you were going to use an alloy beam on the street as this will assist with beam support under hard braking and cornering .
Love the updates mate , keep em coming ...... and see ya at Sydney !!
humpty ·
whathaveidone wrote:there sleves right????
Yep... To slide into the torsion housing... Should make alignment and good weld penetration a snack...
And thanks for the advise Wayne.... The POS is no longer a street car, so cornering is not really an issue, but thanks for the tip and the support..
Looking forward to Sydney. I reckon a beer or three might have to be sampled. 😉
whathaveidone ·
Thats extra weight Simon!!!!!
humpty ·
whathaveidone wrote:Thats extra weight Simon!!!!!
I have a turbo.....
hellbugged ·
humpty wrote:
whathaveidone wrote:Thats extra weight Simon!!!!!
I have a turbo.....
😂 nice comeback
whathaveidone ·
😂Too bad you loose all your races before the green light comes on!!!!😘
matberry ·
😂😂😂
Humpty......aka: Lolli-pop Man
humpty ·
whathaveidone wrote:😂Too bad you loose all your races before the green light comes on!!!!😘
That may be true, but only in Qld.... The lights are slow there.... It's a Qld thing.
Stanley ·
I was going to say your comment was harsh Ben (but bloody funny) until i saw Simons response.
Forget Qld Vs NSW we'll unite for East Vs West
humpty ·
Hehehehehehhehe......
hypo-vw ·
matberry wrote:😂😂😂
Humpty......aka: Lolli-pop Man
then I will expect the ' lolly-pop man ' to turn up at Sydney with a big bag of Red lolly-pops for everyone to share . lol😂😂😂
humpty ·
hypo-vw wrote:
matberry wrote:😂😂😂
Humpty......aka: Lolli-pop Man
then I will expect the ' lolly-pop man ' to turn up at Sydney with a big bag of Red lolly-pops for everyone to share . lol😂😂😂
You planning on breaking the record Wayne?
humpty ·
Went to the track last night.... Shouldn't have cause I have loads of work to at school.... But eeehh!
Anyway.... The new clutch plate I got from Rodney worked really well.... The Stage III is sweet on the pedal and the KEP gold disc I had in the car before is working fine.... The adjustment on the clutch changed little over the course of the night...
Reuben was there to give me a hand and is muchly appreciated.... Took some nice pics too!
Car went exceedingly well....
He posted a video on FB too, but I can't figure out how to link directly.... But here is the FB link....
Broke the rhs axle on the last run, just before staging.... Lucky Tom Laube and Reub was there to give me a hand pushing is back to the pits.
dangerous ·
Well done Simon!
reub ·
Was great to be down dude!
Shame you jinxed yourself with the gearbox.
I'll put the vids up on YouTube on the weekend.
humpty ·
reub wrote:Shame you jinxed yourself with the gearbox.
Your prolly right.... But I know my car too.... I had a feeling things were not right there.... It's been the way of things with this car.... I'm finding the weak links in the car.
All good.
Doug Sweetman ·
Unlucky with the axle mate..... But what was your times ?
humpty ·
Easy launch at 4k with a .026 reaction, 1.8 60 foot, 8.5 on the 1/8th with a 13.2 @ 105.01mph.... Quick shift to second after start, redline in third and strong boost in third and fourth.
Stanley ·
Good one Simon....get some traction and you'll be in the 12's
Doug Sweetman ·
That's more like it !
humpty ·
My transaxle has arrived!.... Gotta pay the customs fees and go get it... Hopefully grab it tonight if they are open after three.... Don't fancy my chances.
humpty ·
😀
This arrived today.....
The best timing slip of Wednesday evenings efforts.
reub ·
13.2 run (was too funny when the theme song started just as he rolled out...)
13.8 run
14.08 run
matberry ·
Looking great Simon
Thanks for getting the vids up Reubs
Doug Sweetman ·
Nice - and a win to boot !!!
humpty ·
Cheers guys.... Went into the shed today to take the race rubber off, and found a nice puddle of trans fluid on the floor... Might have shifted something under there when the axle broke!
1916baja ·
Eww...
Doug Sweetman ·
Erk...... Hope it's not too bad !
humpty ·
Got a little time on the torsion lift and narrowing, along with the new 091 mounts.
humpty ·
So it's looking like I have sold my 82mm CB crank, rods and flywheel..... In the market for a flanged replacement and sundries to make it work.
Anyone out there want to help a Dubber in need? 😍
Stanley ·
Wish I had of known. Just bought a CB 82mm crank and rods and some funky pistons.
1916baja ·
humpty wrote:So it's looking like I have sold my 82mm CB crank, rods and flywheel..... In the market for a flanged replacement and sundries to make it work.
Anyone out there want to help a Dubber in need? 😍
Ha ha! couldnt help yourself could you Simon! You better be shipping this car over this side of the country for warwick and sydney when its done!
modnrod ·
Ha ha! couldnt help yourself could you Simon! You better be shipping this car over this side of the country for warwick and sydney when its done!
I'll tow the thing over there for free if he pays my crew entry and keeps me fed with Vegemite toast for the trip!
1916baja ·
Sounds like a bloody good deal to me!
1916baja ·
Not going with adjustable spring plates Simon??
66brm ·
Glad to take the 82mm off your hands mate, I figure the daily would prefer the 2110 instead of a 2007, just need to reconsider the cam now, heads will support the extra CC's but cam may now be on the smallish side
humpty ·
modnrod wrote:I'll tow the thing over there for free if he pays my crew entry and keeps me fed with Vegemite toast for the trip!
Sounds like a good idea to me!
66brm wrote:Glad to take the 82mm off your hands mate, I figure the daily would prefer the 2110 instead of a 2007, just need to reconsider the cam now, heads will support the extra CC's but cam may now be on the smallish side
I reckon your right Andy.... Glad it's going to a good home!
1916baja wrote:
humpty wrote:So it's looking like I have sold my 82mm CB crank, rods and flywheel..... In the market for a flanged replacement and sundries to make it work.
Anyone out there want to help a Dubber in need? 😍
Ha ha! couldnt help yourself could you Simon! You better be shipping this car over this side of the country for warwick and sydney when its done!
Can't let you have all the fun Mick!... The crank was always a concern for me.... When I bought the crank I was building an NA engine, which would be fine for a crank such as this, but a boosted engine approaching 300hp is the limit of them IMO... Especially after seeing a few boosted engine loose their FW... I'm not looking forward to the cost change over, but the security of knowing I have an engine that will be man enough, is a bonus.
And getting my car to the other coast would be fun, but the freight cost would be a killer.... I need to find me a rich benefactor/sugar-daddy!
My dream of having a solid "eleven-oh" car is getting ever closer.
newghia ·
modnrod wrote:
Ha ha! couldnt help yourself could you Simon! You better be shipping this car over this side of the country for warwick and sydney when its done!
I'll tow the thing over there for free if he pays my crew entry and keeps me fed with Vegemite toast for the trip!
I'll provide Sydney accom & post you over lots of individual Vegemites for the trip (yes, from maccas) if you do !
Nath
modnrod ·
newghia wrote:I'll provide Sydney accom & post you over lots of individual Vegemites for the trip (yes, from maccas) if you do !
Nath
Cool! A flat bit of dirt for a hootchie sounds OK to me!
Uhmmm, vegemite from Macca's?!?!?!
Jeez, what's the world coming to....... 😂
newghia ·
No, an actual bed !
Geez, just trying to help out with the Vegemite !!!! 🙄
Ok, I'll chuck in a tub of peanut butter & some Vita-Wheats as well, if your anaphylactic , uuuum, sorry, don't eat the peanut butter 😂,
I'll get some more Vegemite for the return trip 🤪
Offer is definitely open Humpty & co.......
Nath
humpty ·
Wow.... This offer of all the free vegemite is a pretty dang temping... And peanut butter too!!!???.... Amazing generosity from 'my brother from another mother'!
We are getting way ahead of ourselves.... I still need to get the new pan done, the cage built, a customer car complete, the POS striped and rebuilt, and finally.... Hit the track again!
We shall see.
newghia ·
Get off the forums & into the shed bruvva !😉
Serious offer on the table, including condiments 👍
Nath
humpty ·
Did some more on the torsion this arvo.... Axles and spring plates go on tomorrow to check the measurements, then ill tear it down and finish weld it all.... Then it's time to get it on the pan and get it rolling....
humpty ·
I need to get some 7" ERCO's which is proving a little hard to track down.... Prefer 205PCD, but I'm open to other options.
A while back someone posted a link to a motorsport trading site... Can't for the life of me remember where is was.... Anyone got any leads?
I knew you'd like it Barry... First job will be to make the POS a streeter again, then it's back into this one... If nothing else, it'll be nice to make some room in the shed!
cnfabo ·
You should chop it down the middle and make it narrow,like maybe a 6" chop,go on dare ya....should chop through the wind better too....faster et's....
humpty ·
cnfabo wrote:You should chop it down the middle and make it narrow,like maybe a 6" chop,go on dare ya....should chop through the wind better too....faster et's....
I'm liking the way you think Chris.... Swing by on the weekend and bring your 9"!😘
morgan ·
Think of all the steel you can junk on the inside then lexan windows way easierthan making it a street car. Narrowed and raised gasser Sweet
matberry ·
👍👍
humpty ·
morgan wrote:Think of all the steel you can junk on the inside then lexan windows way easierthan making it a street car. Narrowed and raised gasser Sweet
Yup.... Might even go with a little ol'skool striping and graphics....
Or maybe just to a glory car based on that Essex Bro's beast! 😂
Or maybe.... Tony Thornton's old car...
1916baja ·
The possibilities are endless!
Camo ·
1916baja wrote:The possibilities are endless!
Yes, a man thinking can always get himself into trouble 😂😂😂😂😂
I like the chopped look 👍
Kev
humpty ·
Fortunately I'm a shiny paint dreamer on a primer paint budget... Paint don't make it fast, and most of my investment is in the chassis and driveline... All pretty much paid for too I might add, only the engine updates are to compete.... So the body will be solid and cheap.... It's a race car after all.
Doug Sweetman ·
.....lol looks like my bug will be back on the road before the POS 🙂
humpty ·
Doug Sweetman wrote:.....lol looks like my bug will be back on the road before the POS 🙂
Yeah right..... 😘
Doug Sweetman ·
Ha, your probably right.
humpty ·
Just scored these out of SoCal.
Need some suitable bubble fronts to match now... And most likely be selling my current ERCO's too.
The CroMo tube for the new cage has been lined up too... The guy who's doing some bar work on the Baja has done me a very good deal in the tube.... Much cheaper than GoGear (local motorsport supplier) too.
And a pair of used 26x8.5 Slicks from a guy in Bunno.... Cheers to Morgan for putting me on to those!
The chassis mockup will begin again as soon as the 'customer car' goes out the door....
Crankcase, pistons, flanged cranks, SCAT rods and extra long 94mm cylinders are off to Dave Butler real soon too....
It's good to be moving forward.... But of course all of this is going into a new car, and the POS is going back on the road without all the turbo stuff... But it will be nice to have a quick street bug again... Its been way too long....
Need to come up with a new title for this thread.... Suggestions?
FROSTY ·
I agree, give it a name!
Stanley ·
FROSTY wrote:I agree, give it a name!
Daryl?
humpty ·
Helpful.... Keep'em coming.
turboboy ·
It's late , go to bed , you need your beauty sleep . LOL🤪
modnrod ·
Humpty's POS60.........gets steelies-with-hubcaps, 5" clearance, rear-window-venetians......and a 2334. 😀
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
I reckon you paint the new car red and call it lollipop hahahaha
ian.mezz ·
humpbug😊
buggty😊
1916baja ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:I reckon you paint the new car red and call it lollipop hahahaha
😂
humpty ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:I reckon you paint the new car red and call it lollipop hahahaha
Oh ha ha.... 😘
humpty ·
Picked up these monsters yesterday...
26x8.5/15 ET Drag M/T's.... Used, but useable for the chassis mockup.
humpty ·
So it's offical.... The POS is no longer a drag car in waiting.... It is currently being hastly reborn as a movie star street car.
Stay tuned.... 😏
tayloredvw ·
Yeah, a WA drag car!
What class would you be running in?
fish26 ·
paint it green, call it blowfly
humpty ·
tayloredvw wrote:Yeah, a WA drag car!
What class would you be running in?
Super Street is the plan....
humpty ·
The last pic you will see of the POS on this thread.
On to the build up of the new car!
humpty ·
And here we have the re-start of the drag car build....
Been working on the floor pan the past couple of days... The torsion housing is now one with the pan. Has been braced on the underside, and is currently getting a few holes welded up.... Flipped it back up the right way today, and began the fit up of the suspension, transaxle and front suspension.
Pics from yesterday....
And this was in the shed the other night too....
:wink:
More done today.... Will show that stuff tomorrow.
humpty ·
The rear rims still haven't arrived..... Crap!
So on with the pan.... I had some crusty parts to repair where the OG jack points were fitted.... Ugly as buggery, I cut the area out on both sides and patched them up.
Also fitted the lower bracing to the framehorns....
Then flipped it back over the right way and began the trail fit up of the bits...
And I also fitted a 4" narrowed beam I built a few years back... This complete beam was sitting under the bench, so I put it to work temporarily...
An Aluminum beam is going in as soon as I have built it up.
That's where I'm at today.... I haven't got any brakes for the rear yet, but might have something in the pile down the farm... Hopefully Ill finally have the pan rolling tomorrow.
Got a name for the car too..... Vochito!
Dak-A-Tak ·
Good work mate , Moving gear lever back to , cool ( wish I did mine ) , while your going that far , think about hard lines now for fuel and brakes . I run hoses with bulk head fittings each end ( main fuel , fuel return , nitrous ) . I ran brake line on pan edge for rear brakes , I just didn't want it inside cab , kills paint .
What chop style are you going to do ? Humpty
