After about 7 months and many problems my 74 is on the road after its new paint job. It was painted by my uncle who did an excellent job 😊 . Hope these pictures work as this is my first post on Aussieveedubbers (Thanks Barls and Dave for helping with my log-in problems)
Anyway here are some before and after shots.
Tell me what you think 😁
Simon
bond ·
dude - thats unreal! well done!
fantastic colour scheme! love the smoked tail lights!
nick
trickysimon ·
Thanks very much. I'm very happy with it. The interior and motor still needs some work though😂
Simon
pod ·
dosent the black andred go well together,as one of mine uses this combination
trickysimon ·
Believe it or not but your car is one of the reasons i chose the colours. Very nice car btw😁
pod ·
thanks😀😊
trickysimon ·
Look what just fell off the back of a truck 😁
Seems to have the word "Penrose" on it, whatever that means 🤪
Should wake this car up a bit 😂
trickysimon ·
Might add some pictures of the car while im at it 😁
Mick058 ·
Well done mate, stick it to em' out there
colonel mustard ·
What intake are you going with?? looks like a sweet engine... !!!
trickysimon ·
Some 40mm IDF Webers or if I can't get my hands on them, some kadrons.
Exhaust should hopefully be a 1.5 inch sidewinder.
byronmcmanus59 ·
yeah look i don't like you much........
trickysimon ·
Mick058 wrote:Well done mate, stick it to em' out there
If I wanted to stick it to em I would be putting a ej20t in the back 😂
trickysimon ·
byronmcmanus59 wrote:yeah look i don't like you much........
Hehe, jealous much Jono?
byronmcmanus59 ·
dunno.. could be?
ass.
Mick058 ·
trickysimon wrote:
Mick058 wrote:Well done mate, stick it to em' out there
If I wanted to stick it to em I would be putting a ej20t in the back 😂
If you were an idiot you would be putting in an STi spec engine
trickysimon ·
If you were smart you would take me for a drive at Nationals if I make it 😁
colonel mustard ·
Dude... I recon you got a sweet deal going down there... 🙂
Mick058 ·
trickysimon wrote:If you were smart you would take me for a drive at Nationals if I make it 😁
deal...if i make it
newghia ·
Simon, there is no way that engine is going to fit in that little bug with the roof rack !!!!
Better send it up 2 me and i'll send you one back from my 18 volt cordless drill !
hope to see you at the Nats,
Nath
trickysimon ·
Damn, if its not going to fit I may as well send it to you.
Any specs on the 18 volt? 😂
cesiumfrog ·
so thats why you havn't been seen lately....sitting at home waiting for the postman, eh?
trickysimon ·
Haha who are you? 🤪
philew ·
phil.....my original login still works at work, doesn't work at home anymore.
is that the 1916 he was advertising a while ago?
i'm jealous!
talk to me if you want to go kads, i have been running a set for 15 years and have some thuoghts you may be interested in.
colonel mustard ·
If you want kadrons, I know of a set for $900... plus postage...
trickysimon ·
Haha Phil, I thought I might have a stalker.
Yeh haven't been at the gym in a while, too busy working 🥲 Oh well, it puts engines on the table.
Not sure if it was the engine he had posted earlier. He had it in his own car for 8000km until it shit itself so he rebuilt it with new heads etc.
Would like to hear your thoughts on kadrons. PM me if you don't want to post here.
Colonel they would have to be gold plated at that price 😵
colonel mustard ·
Well. New ones are a bit more...... Probs go for webers if you have high expectations. 🙂
trickysimon ·
Since George at CVD is selling sidewinders for $600 I decided to give him a call today. Turns out that they don't come in 1.5inch 😢
Anyone got any suggestions?
colonel mustard ·
Thunderbird with hotdog??? 🙂
trickysimon ·
Serious suggestions 😂
colonel mustard ·
Well that's what I would run if it was going into my car.
Don't worry, I don't know anything, apparently.
mactaylor ·
ring westi and ask for us all to make a jig for some sidewinders!!!!!!
trickysimon ·
Sorry Mac, I decided to go with the 1 5/8 inch from George.
I know that people will say that its too big, but if I find it robs too much bottom end, I guess I'll have to build a bigger engine for it 😂
And $600 delivered was too good to pass up 😵
Next step: Carbs (What's everyones thoughts on Dual 40mm DCNs?)
Joel ·
well you already know my biased answer
trickysimon ·
Post it up please..might start a friendly debate 🙂
Joel ·
ive had DCNs and DCNFs for years
i ran twin DCNs on my 1835 and 1776 before the supercharger went on and ive run a few singles on stock 1600s
the one on dads trike hasnt been touched since i put it on 3 years ago
theyve always been a set and forget carb to me
i like them cos there low profile, theres still plenty of room in the engine bay with twins and plugs are still easily accessable unlike Kdogs and IDFs...well dependant on which manifolds are used anyway
there also all italian built and easy to get jets and kits for still and the sexy intake roar they make 😀
the same one that kills your ears on long trips
whatnow ·
i never had DCNF's but my last car also had no soundproofing. total strangers used to laugh at me driving up the freeway with earmuffs on.
trickysimon ·
😂 Wear earplugs, alot less noticeable
trickysimon ·
What everyone should have sitting on their bedside table 😂
It looks too good to use, might frame it 😀
Craig Torrens ·
trickysimon wrote:Not sure if it was the engine he had posted earlier. He had it in his own car for 8000km until it shit itself so he rebuilt it with new heads etc.
wow that lasted a long time, I'm amazed it made it that far!! 😂
You will like the sidewinder, i run one on my ragtop and they sound sweeeeet 😎
trickysimon ·
Yeh, didn't have an oil filter (well still doesnt).
I'll be running a Maxi Pump 3 on it.
Can't wait to get this running 👍
pete wood ·
whatnow wrote:i never had DCNF's but my last car also had no soundproofing. total strangers used to laugh at me driving up the freeway with earmuffs on.
you just need a pair of these so they think you're a rally star... 😉
got me a set the other day to use with a terraphone intercom. what a difference! no more whistling ears after a day out.
Thought I would post up some pics of the mothers day outing we had today. The Golf VR6 is my brothers. Just put his new 18inch wheels on yesturday.
As you can see, both our front ends need to be hit with the lowering stick 😂
NuZo ·
lookin good man! love those VR6's!!!
tell us how the side winder goes 😀
Cheers!
trickysimon ·
This new toy should make things easier 🤓
And yes, it is in my room 😂 (excuse the mess)
Mick058 ·
where was your car at Nats?
i couldn't meet you or give you those CDs because i only know your car 😂😂😂😂
i brought the CDs for ya, but wasn't to hopeful in actual seeing you!
trickysimon ·
Haha yeh, realised my mistake when I didnt see your car there. Assumed you hadn't finished. Should have exchanged numbers or somthing 🤪
Oh well. You might have seen my bros car there, the grey vr6 golf (scroll up).
Guess I'll just have to grab it off you at the next show 😂
My number is 0432673709, so now there is no excuse! 😂
trickysimon ·
Well my bank balance is looking a little worse for wear, but at least I have some stuff to show for it 👍
This engine should be a stump puller with the 24 vents that the DCN's currently have 😂
Total so far is $4632!!!! 🤪 Still need clutch, serpentine kit, and other little bits and pieces 🤪
trickysimon ·
Couple more shots:
NuZo ·
what kind of oil cooking setup will u have on it? iv always wonderd what 1916's have had in terms of oil, weather its the stock system, or modified, or a totally new system?
how much does it cost(if it costs anything)
And by any chance, are u a drug dealer :P thats a nice sum of money for a p plater 😀 still wishing i had that much money :'(
GL HF dude! Keep us all here posted 😀
PS. tell us how the electronic ignition goes aswell, always wondered about them!! 😀
Cheers!
trickysimon ·
😂 No I'm not a drug dealer and trainee wages aren't that great. I just work hard and try not to go out drinking too often.
(Living at home and getting loans off the parents help as well)
Will be running stock doghouse oilcooler in shroud. Dunno if I'll use the one that is on my 1600 atm or if I'll shell out for a new one ($?)
Currently no oil filter but still deciding wether I'll fit a CB Maxi Pump 3.
Can always add one later if I decide not to add it now.
BTW What is everyones opinion on clutches? Will I need a HD unit or will stock be fine. (Keeping in mind that it will be thrashed)
NuZo ·
stock is only good for i think 80HP anything over that and its no no..
thats as far as iv herd newais, i kno if i was getting a nice 1916 id be opting for atleast a HD clutch! no point having 100+ HP ATW if it slipps half of it !
Hmmm gota think more of oil cooler. got any websites or anythign that give an indepth look at them?
gl hf 😀
Craig Torrens ·
Re Clutch: just get a 1700lb kennedy, they're good value from classicvw...........the empi copies of the 1700lb are also good value.
A standard pressure plate is fine as long as you modify the flywheel to "bump" up the clamping force (but for the price i would still use the 1700lb one)
Re Cooler: I run the standard doghouse cooler with no probs 👍
NuZo ·
to Mr Torrens,
When u say dog house cooler u mean the shroud with the little insert where that rectangle oil cooler goes?
and is ur stock oil pump doing the job? is that all thats required for a nice reliable setup?
Joel ·
even on the bigger engines, in a bug 95% of the time stock doghouse cooler and oil pump are fine
if ur oils getting to hot then its more likely to be things like wrong oil, bad tuning, CR to high, tinware issues, non vented engine lids etc
its not to often a 30mm pump is actually called for
trickysimon ·
How much is good value Mr Torrens?
Chucked some stuff together even though I dont have half the nuts and bolts needed.
And the answer is No, I couldn't help myself 😂
beetleboyjeff ·
I run a 1916 with Kadrons, and have been using a standard clutch for the last 220.000kms, and havn't had any problem,s even though I tow a trailer full of tools (about 700 or 800kgs I think) about 2/3 of the time. If I was to drag race, I would consider a better clutch. I do run a 30mm oil pump, filter, and an 8 pass external cooler (above the transaxle), as towing the trailer on the highway gets the oil temp too high without it. Without the trailer, it may be OK.
trickysimon ·
Thanks for the input Jeff. What specs and what sorta power is that 1915 putting out?
colonel mustard ·
Simon's shopping list
1x exhaust mount (the rubber thing which I have forgotten the correct name for - get them from an exhaust shop) - it has to be tightish and take up the slack of the muffler 🙂
2x twin port gaskets
4x 8x11 nuts
4x exhaust gaskets
8x copper (or copper coated) exhaust nuts
4x spark plugs.... yep you need these hahah 😀
- Fuel tee and fuel line.
- linkage kit
- alternator kit (on sale at classic right now)
- fuel pump (make sure you get the alt one if you run an alt... which you should be cause its a 74......right?){also make sure you get the right length pushrod - sounds basic, people stuff it up... :S}
- Distributer and coil (love bosch stuff, but had bad experiance with the GT40...)
- oil cooler 🙂
-tinware//
Man... Another $1000 and you will be running sweetly.
Love your car, think you will love it mare with a bit extra go too ay.
trickysimon ·
Don't forget colonel that I have an engine in the car atm, so most of that stuff I can just switch over (alternator, fuel pump, oil cooler)
Think I might grab some spare tin ware so I can get it powdercoated to match new shroud. Save the hassle of getting it powdercoated when there is no engine in. Fuel pump will need a overhaul as it leaks like a seive and I'm not sure if it's a good idea to re-use the oilcooler I have now?
Have most of the gaskets, just couldn't control the urge to slap the things I had on for some pictures.
Got a 009 dissy that I'll stick the pertronix in under the house. Picked up flamethrower coil at Nationals.
Linkage kit came with DCNS, although I will prob need to do somthing about the 24 vents the carbs currently have (unless I plan to be pulling tree stumps)
Prob just make up a bracket to support the muffler out of a bit of metal. Doesn't need to be rubber as it isn't connected to the body at all, so doesn't need to move independently to the engine (correct me someone if I'm wrong.)
Total should be pretty close to $5000 if all goes to plan, although I'm thinking I should put some new gearbox mounts and oil in while engine is out. Will also prob shell out for new firewall insulation and I need a new engine bay seal. 🤪
So we will see how I go 😂
hellbugged ·
those carbs fit in engine bay?
trickysimon ·
Umm I assume so...
They came off a 1835 in a beetle (so the ebayer said)
What makes you ask that? The tall manifolds?
colonel mustard ·
the manifolds look pretty darn tall. loves it.
Are you not planning on keeping the current engine as a running backup just in case or selling it as is (so you can get more for it...?)
Good stuff though mate. looks good.
I cant answer the exhaust question, but if it was mine, rubber mount all the way. less noise.
trickysimon ·
Well not much of an update but I thought I would post it up anyway.
Managed to get the Pertronix fitted to the 009 that I will be using.
How do you fit the distributor the right way so that its not 180 out?
Still trying to find some tinware for this engine so that I can get everything sandblasted and powdercoated.
Serpentine kit from Rod is about 4 weeks away from the USA.
Dunno what coil mount I'm gunna use. Was hoping to mount it on the case.
trickysimon ·
Just checked the jets in the DCNs. May as well post em up so I don't forget and so I can get some feedback.
Idle: 50
Main Jet: 160
Air Correction: 185
Venturi: 24
trickysimon ·
Any jetting suggestions?
trickysimon ·
What a bastard of a job 😂
Joel ·
😁
wow a singer that still has its Z-bar
trickysimon ·
Yeh I was tempted to rip it off to make things easier 😂
Cheers and yeh 100% sure, unless they have been bored out
trickysimon ·
How can you tell if your clutch is still good?
Bizarre ·
Are all the fingers on the pressure plate level
I go by the grooves on the clutch plate - sort of like reverse tyre markers
"I" would say that is fine
As long as your fingers were grease free when you held it 😵💫
cesiumfrog ·
hi simon
bit of action...exciting...huh?
clutch plate looks fine...pressure plate ..hard to tell with the dodgy pic but if uneven wear or glazed patches may neeed to take it to a engineers shop and get it dresssed.
like bizarre says...
dont get any grease on them
phil
trickysimon ·
Cheers guys😁
I thought they looked ok but just wanted to make sure.
And no, my hands were not even dirty 🙄 DOH
trickysimon ·
Oh and how much am I looking at for a fuel pump rebuild kit. I have a bolt top type pump that leaks like a sieve.
Joel ·
no rest for the wicked
diaphragm clutches are hard to visually inspect
that one looks fine on the friction surface but then so does one i have that slips
i usally see how much tension the fingers take with my foot but if it wasnt slipping or grabbing i'd reuse it
plenty of meat left on that clutch plate though
i know your sick of throwing money at it but i would think about buying a new pump
the rebuild kits cost the same but in the end its still a brazillian pump and the old bolt toghether type have nasty habit of spitting the brass hose fittings out and dowsing the dissy
all the new ones now are the pressed domed top ones
just gotta make sure its one that suits a long pushrod
trickysimon ·
Hmm really?
From reading on thesamba about how you should rebuild them cause you can't buy em anymore,
I was under the impression that they were better.
Guess it would be a good idea to spend a bit more on a new pump seeing as I've spent on pretty much everything else🙄
Joel ·
thats talking about the original pierburg german ones not brazils finest brosol POS that leak from new
trickysimon ·
Taking the axle tube off the passenger side was near impossible
Had to smack the crap out of it with a hoe 😂
This was the side that was leaking out the middle of the wheel.
Would this be the cause? Dad was thinking that the seal may have got caught under the bearing.
trickysimon ·
Tinware fresh off engine:
Back from powdercoaters:
trickysimon ·
Bizarre ·
powder coating is so nice
looking good
trickysimon ·
Recieved a nice 5 bar kit from Craig today.
Also got some pretty exhaust nuts 😵
trickysimon ·
Well didn't get much done this weekend as I was busy drinking away my birthday today 😂
Got the alternator stand, alternator and clutch on.
Bolted up the 5 bar kit. Should be welded in tomorrow if all goes to plan. Gearbox should be on a truck this week as well hopefully.
trickysimon ·
😎
What sorta bolts is everyone using to bolt carbs to manifolds? Anything special? Just wondering what I need to go buy..
Craig Torrens ·
I use studs then nuts with thin concave washers.
trickysimon ·
Got a picture of them? What thread pitch and size?
Joel ·
good thing u got that 36hp shroud.
those carbs never would have cleared a stock one
my berg squat manifolds only just clear with some trimming to the air cleaner base
dangerous ·
Simons trans has been on the road trip of life time over the last couple of weeks.
After having a few days "layover" in sunny Brisbane, it is now safely at my place for some much needed TLC.
Being a 1974 1300 car, it has a 4.375 crownwheel and pinion.
It also has fine tooth 1.2600 third gear and also a fne tooth 0.931 fourth ratio.
Depending on Simon's budget,
we may be able to improve both strength, and also the ratios of the gears,
with a combination of factory parts,
and also a few aftermarket bits and pieces.
There were a couple of extra parts that will need replacing.
This reverse idler gear is very sad,
but the replacement of this cog is just standard service procedure in these,
and also L-bug and late bus gearboxes.
You can see how the tooth has layed over at an angle.
This makes it very hard to stay in gear.
dangerous ·
The gear that this little one meshes with can also be damaged in a similar way.
While not uncommon, Simon's one was very sad too,
so ths will be replaced with a good used one,
and the little one will be replaced with an ERCO(USA) one that is made from better steel and heat treatment.
The other part that will need to be found is a 3rd/4th shift fork.
This one is worn because the shift rail bore in the housing is flogged out.
The aforementined "shift rail hole" will be rebushed.
I have a policy that ALL the trans that I do get this treatment for better shift quality.
Funily enough, most pre-1965 boxes wear very little in the shift rail bores,
or only the very low mileage, and so there have only been a couple that did not need this procedure.
dangerous ·
The original ratios were:
4.375 crownwheel & pinion,
3.778 first (strong 34/9 tooth version!)
2.0588 second,
1.2600 fine tooth third,
0.931 fine tooth 4th.
I will change this to use a
4.125 crownwheel and pinion,
we will keep the strong
3.7778 first gear,
2.0588 second,
a closer ratio coarse tooth 1.3182 third,(welded synchro cone)
and a Kombi-1800, 0.889 fouth gear.(these are fctory electron beam welded!)
This should make for respectable cruise RPM, and a nice spread of ratos.
Simon has also stepped up to the plate for a super diff,
and a HD Aluminium side cover, (stock one is soft magnesium).
trickysimon ·
😵 I'm excited!!!
Is there any obvious signs of wear from speed shifting and clutch dropping? This gearbox has copped alot 😂
dangerous ·
Yes there were a few areas , other than what was mentioned above, that got a hard time.
The circlips that were trying to hold in the side gears had pounded a huge lip into the diff.
Luckily that whole housing is getting replaced with a superdiff.
Today I set up the crownwheel and pinion.
This one is a Klingelnberg toothshape,
which most feel is the best choice for high performance use.
dangerous ·
Most superdiffs have extra circlips(two instead of one), on each side to help hold everything in place.
The superdiff has four spider gears inside instead of two:
dangerous ·
And a stronger casting to support the extra shafts.
Took a very light skim off the face of the nose cone:
....and welded the end of the hockey stick to give more precise shift quality.
This is done with a welding rod that is high in nickle for better wear than the original metal.
trickysimon ·
Looking good Dave 👍
dangerous ·
Hopefully have it all finished soon!
Andy ·
This is all very inspiring!! Your car is looking great.
Almost enough to get me motivated to do mine up (I have a '74 super).
Silly question I know, but why are all mag wheels a much wider offset than stock? Does this not affect handling, particularly steering?
I know you need a bit of extra offset for wider tyres, but they all seem much more offset than need be, and there's not much advantage to go massively wider than stock to get grip.
trickysimon ·
Thanks Andy!
I don't think the wheels have a negative affect on handling. If anything they give me better grip and balance in the corners. It does make parking harder, although still alot easier than front engined cars. I think all the old Hotwires, Jellybeans etc were designed for widened guards. Thats prob why they have such terrible offset. The plan is to upgrade to some chrome fuchs later on so I'm not that concerned.
dangerous ·
Here is a comparson of the fine tooth 3rd and 4th gears,
and the stronger coarse tooth ones.
The welded 1.3182 third gear:
If you look closely you can see the electrom beam weld on the 0.889 fourth gear:
dangerous ·
Here you can see where I have modified the 3rd/4th selector hub to fit a wider 2lt Bus circlip.
This is to add strength and enable a firm fit. This is to stop the hub thrusting forward against 4th gear.
Here is the whole assembly in the jig to set the forks.
I have used 2lt bus mainshaft bearings and Pinion bearing from Germany.
Here you can see the stock RHS side cover.
I have used a HD aluminium one on the LHS to help keep the crownwheel in mesh
dangerous ·
trickysimon ·
Woo Hoo!
Now to start the long trip 😂
If anyone is thinking of doing the same, I can't recommend Dave highly enough! 👍
Mick058 ·
on the to do list!
Well done Dave and Simon - gotta be happy with that - you'll be done before me mate - you aiming for Warwick?
colonel mustard ·
One day. One day.
Nice work captain dave.
Simon... you lucky dude! 🙂
trickysimon ·
Thanks Mick and Jason.
I might be going to Warwick but I doubt that I'll be driving up.
Dialing this engine in might take me till the end of the year 😂
This box should be enough for when I add some boost or more cc's later down the track 🤘
cesiumfrog ·
nice, simon
trickysimon ·
Cheers Phil, will have to start going to the gym again to catch up😎
Have you bought some Porsche rims yet?
cesiumfrog ·
bought vw/audi 17x7 rims, vforce struts etc,waiting for ingrams to finish putting studs in the discs/drums so i can get back on the road....i'll fill you in sometime..might come check on your progress.
trickysimon ·
That should look sweet 👍
colonel mustard ·
trickysimon wrote:I might be going to Warwick but I doubt that I'll be driving up.
come on, its only 1100 kms.... haha
trickysimon ·
Got some nice pressies from Micks Motors today 😎
Joel ·
cool lint remover
your gonna love how much that firewall rattles when u crank the stereo up
colonel mustard ·
Yum! new stuff. Looking good there! Love getting new stuff... its the best!!
colonel mustard ·
Sorry to post in your thread again, but!
Word on the street..... my street... in a conversation today..... Tells me that gearbox took a trip today! 🙂
trickysimon ·
😂 You stalking Dave?
Yeh gearbox got dropped off at depot today. Hopefully should be here by end of this week or early next week.
Then I can start putting things back together!
colonel mustard ·
I'm not stalking anyone! haha. Dave picked up a few bits and pieces from my place today, and said he dropped off the box for its journey back to Wagga.
Tell me Simon, are those gearbox mounts the same as L bug mounts? Any idea?? (yeah... I have no idea what type to get 🙁 )
trickysimon ·
The front mount would be.
Don't think the rear mounts are... could be wrong.
Several people have told me not to get Urethane mounts unless it is a race car (too noisy)
Joel ·
front and rear mounts are same after 73, doesnt matter if its IRS or swinger
trickysimon ·
🤓 lol
colonel mustard ·
Joel wrote:front and rear mounts are same after 73, doesnt matter if its IRS or swinger
so mine will be the same 🙂 yay!! are there other options.... sorry for hijacking!
trickysimon ·
Everyday feels like Christmas here 😂
Obviously not bolted up....just couldnt resist lol
Gearbox is back in Wagga as well, dropping it off at my house tommorow.
Three days of presents! 😏
colonel mustard ·
Starting to look the goods there mate. Staying with the stock oil filler??? Presents coming regularly must mean bank account decreasing often :P
trickysimon ·
I think at the moment ill stay with it. Doesn't look out of place with its black surroundings.
Its scary to think that I'm 8k out of pocket for the engine and gearbox 😵💫
dangerous ·
trickysimon wrote:Obviously not bolted up....just couldnt resist lol
Gearbox is back in Wagga as well, dropping it off at my house tommorow.
Three days of presents! 😏
WOW!
That was fast!
trickysimon ·
Yeah alot quicker than it took to get it up there 😂
Btw, was reading the axle swap article in latest magazine thinking to myself "This is pretty handy for me atm"
Then I look who wrote it 👍
Will that method be the same for my late model case?
Is it important that I measure clearance for fulcrum plates and axle tube axial clearance?
dangerous ·
trickysimon wrote:Its scary to think that I'm 8k out of pocket for the engine and gearbox 😵💫
sssssshhhhhh!
Dont count the money, it spoils the fun!😂
Just spend what you can sensibly afford on quality equipment,
and learn all you can!
The experience will be in you memory long after the pain of the empty wallet. 🥲🤓
dangerous ·
trickysimon wrote:Yeah alot quicker than it took to get it up there 😂
Btw, was reading the axle swap article in latest magazine thinking to myself "This is pretty handy for me atm"
Then I look who wrote it 👍
Will that method be the same for my late model case?
Is it important that I measure clearance for fulcrum plates and axle tube axial clearance?
Actually that WAS good timing!
Just check what it is with the feeler guage,
and record the measurement for future reference.
Give me a call if you want, or are not sure.
I always put plenty of anti-seize or assembly lube on the spade of the axle and fulcrums.
trickysimon ·
Righto cheers, might give you a call on Sat after work.
trickysimon ·
Next time im using a chainsaw to get all the cardboard and duct tape off...
Parents are gunna be pissed when they come home to a house full of car parts 😂
trickysimon ·
Stupid circlips 🙅
bugking ·
Hey trickysimon, thats some nice kit you have there.
I love opening up boxes of car parts aswell !.
colonel mustard ·
Drooooooool. 🙂
trickysimon ·
Stupid bearings 🙅
Can someone please tell me if they can see anything ive missed? (touch wood) Besides the axle boot and rest of brakes.
Mick058 ·
looking good mate - well done
trickysimon ·
Well after half an hour trying to get the front mount to lock in,
my bro took the front mount off to find it was bent 🙄
After we fixed that went in like a glove 🙂
dangerous ·
Looking Good Simon!
Dont for get the oil!
trickysimon ·
Cheers mate 🙂
Think I'll put the boots and oil in before I put engine in.
Hopefully save me forgetting 🙄
Mick058 ·
Warwick?
Bizarre ·
Is it worthwhile chaging your cradle to the other (later??) style
Those ones are soft
trickysimon ·
lol doubt it Mick, but might take 2 weeks off work and drive up with family in torago. Don't think I could handle 14 hours driving the beetle..
Barry: Was going to change to earlier stronger style, but my cradle was in good condition so I didn't bother. Should be fine for now..
colonel mustard ·
gonna smash it this weekend??? and by smash, i mean get heaps done... 🙂
trickysimon ·
Just woke up with a hangover, oh well, that won't stop me lol
Just trying to find which is the best way to put the axle boots
colonel mustard ·
not sure what you mean.... but the bolts always on top 🙂.....
good luck with it 🙂
trickysimon ·
Hmm think you are meant to put them at 10 or 2 oclock. Can anyone confirm this?
Also, can someone please confirm that I have this side bolted up properly. Wasn't sure if bumpstop was in correct postion and couldn't find a picture anywhere.
Do my rear mount bolts need to be cut down to clear the flywheel?
ian.mezz ·
those studs do look a bit long, are they stock vw parts.
just measure the flywheel and see if there is enough room so the ring gear don't hit.
if the bump rubber is mounted under the bump stop on the upper part of suspension it should be rite.
cesiumfrog ·
hey simon,
those studs do indeed look long?
the axle boots are always confusing cause every where you look it says a dif. thing ie 10 to, 10 past, quarter to, quarter past, straight up is where i put the last ones i installed (join on top of axle tube.)
yeah..thats the right place for the bump stop locator thingy.
trickysimon ·
Thanks Ian and Phil 👍
Think I'll put them at 10 oclock cause looking at pictures of hellbugged's, that will be the easiest to get to with the 5 bar kit installed.
Glad the bump stop was correct, cause I did the other side before coming to look for replies 😂
trickysimon ·
Well todays updates:
Suspension hooked up
Gearbox bolted in
Axle boots on
Throw-out bearing on
5-bar back on
Axle boot kits came with dodgy clip style hose clamps, so replaced them with screw type.
trickysimon ·
Serpentine on
Dizzy in
Fuel pump on (used two gaskets to get the rod at 13mm at full lift, does that sound right?)
Craig Torrens ·
i reckon you should grind the studs down a tad for those mounts, they do look long!
5 bar kit looks good !😁
Nearly there mate and you will be hooning up the streets of Wagga !
trickysimon ·
Yeh might have to borrow those number plates off you 😂
trickysimon ·
A bit of elbow grease, petrol, sandpaper and paint and wolah!
Clean up wiring this weekend and if all goes to plan, engine in next weekend 😏
colonel mustard ·
Whats it looking like! 🙂
trickysimon ·
Finish work at 3pm tommorow. So I'll clean up the wiring, cut the mount bolts and adjust clutch (hopefully)
Odds of getting engine in on weekend are looking good but things do pop up. I didn't expect to go waterskiing last Sunday...(F$@king Freezing!)
For people with firewall mounted coils: Did screw and mount your coil with engine out, or is it better to have engine in?
colonel mustard ·
There's water in Wagga??
Don't go skiing! finish the car 🙂 !!
trickysimon ·
Lol nah the Wagga lake is pretty dry atm. Went to Hume Weir (Down Albury/ Wodonga way)
trickysimon ·
First off I'd like to thank Phil for his help today. It was good having someone who knows what they are doing around 👍
Bought a new toy:
Stripped the engine:
Finally got seal in (even though it barely stays in so fell out when engine went in 😂)
Engine in:
colonel mustard ·
nice! thats the hard part done! good stuff. it will be fun 🙂 enjoy it. Im glad you have made this thread, as my upgrades will be similar. sorry that I'm totally annoying and pestering you to finnish 🙂
spdterence ·
Good job Simon. It's coming together. :-)
trickysimon ·
Thanks guys.
izac ·
well done dude. looks good.
those big trolley jacks sure make putting the engine in a whole lot easier! 👍
trickysimon ·
Thanks Izac, its alot safer than stacking bricks and boards on top the jack like how I used to 😂
Sidewinder on:
Made up some gaskets and fitted the webers:
Can someone please tell me if this is still ok. When I was putting the exhaust on, I spotted some dents in the pushrod tubes. Must have dented them while moving engine around. It isnt as bad as it looks in the photo. More like small flat spots on the pushrod tubes. Please tell me they will be fine 🥲
dangerous ·
Getting damn close there Simon!
My guess is that thise dents will be fine.
As long as the pushrod is not rubbing that should be OK.
trickysimon ·
Thanks Dave. Guess I can stop shitting myself now then 😂
Craig Torrens ·
if you're really worried about it you can always rub it out from the inside.....I've done this by using a pushrod and a rag.
trickysimon ·
Thanks Craig, good to know that I can do that if it does cause problems. I think it should be fine, I was just worried that it was an instant no-no to run them like that.
Gearbox is filled and ready to go. No leaks from the axles so far so looks promising.
Fuel line is hooked up to pump, just has to be teed off to carbs.
One of the carb fuel openings appears to be bigger than the other, so dunno what I'm gunna do there..
colonel mustard ·
Painfully close now man 🙂 I like that! Looks fantastic. 🙂
Questions.....
What are you breathing the oil filler to?
Is that a new fuel pump? where did you get it?
Shouldn't you put the chrome firewall in before the engine?
did you leave the diagnostic plug where it was?
are you mounting the coil on the firewall???
Nice new jack... and ironically, blocks of wood was how Izac was doing it on friday. felt like going back to my old work and "borrowing" the old truck jack that was hidden under the stairs... 🙂
trickysimon ·
Yeh getting close now
Drivers side aircleaner has a place to breath to.
Yeh new fuel pump, got it from Micks Motors for $46.75
Decided to just paint the firewall instead of fitting the chrome. Just couldnt be bothered really lol. I'll sell it to you cheaper if you want (still got protective coating on it.
I unplugged all the wires out of the back of the diagnostic box and insulated them all seperatly. Taped up in the corner.
Yeh coil is going on the firewall. Gunna be mounted pretty much where the diagnostics box was. Was trial fitting it today.
The Flamethrower leads I bought come as a kit so I don't have to worry bout buying a longer HT lead.
colonel mustard ·
what linkage is that?? Im sure you'll see it soon, but i'v organised some dcnf's.... thinking of going for a scat linkage.... or maybe trying to rig up a cb performance hex bar set up..... its possible...ish, just needs a few... modifications. yum.
trickysimon ·
Its just a hacked up type 3 linkage apparently. Trying to hook up the throttle now actually.
Do people cut the tube that goes through the fanshroud?
Mine seems to be hitting on the rubber tube at the back of the shroud that the cable runs though.
DaveCarter ·
i love that exhaust. sidewinder would definitely be my next extractors
matberry ·
Hopefully not too late but try and rub the dents out that are in those pushrod tubes. If you leave it until there's a problem, it'll be a hole worn through the tube and then it will be too late.
Good work all the same.👍
ian.mezz ·
that bolt on the alternator strap goes under behind oil filler so you don't see it.
I didnt see any gearbox straping around the gear box???
uno one like the cheap empi -9550
trickysimon ·
Thanks Matt and Ian, yeh I put the alternator around that way cause undoing it with the 34 pict 3 wasnt one of my favourite jobs 😂
Didn't get a whole lot done. Got sick of it so went inside and played Wii.
Got the coil mounted on the firewall and fiddle around with the throttle. (Thoughts would be appreciated, got me stumped a bit.)
Started to make up the flamethrower leads but storm started picking up so called it a day.
trickysimon ·
Well I'm gunna fill it with oil and try and start it after I have some lunch.
Can anybody think of somthing I may have missed. What do I set things to and what do I do once its started lol.
What are these wires that connect to the coil and which sides do they go on?
Bizarre ·
Where are your hose clamps on your fuel lines??
Wouldnt be relying on push fit
trickysimon ·
Yeh was gunna fit them later...shouldn't need em just for startup should I?
Bizarre ·
Your call - how much you spent so far??
trickysimon ·
Yeh good point, I'll go put some on 😂
colonel mustard ·
and the breather on the oil filler.... even if its just a hose with a rag on the end,..... you need something there
trickysimon ·
Starter motor won't turn over and oil pressure light isnt on. Always knew wiring would let me down 🙅
colonel mustard ·
also, are you making sure you have the oil pressure up before you start it..... ?
trickysimon ·
Turns over now. Not getting spark though. Oil pressure light comes on when u disconnect it from the sender and earth it against the motor.
Doesn't come on when its plugged into the sender though. Found a wire next to the gearbox that is unplugged. It runs up passenger side into engine bay.
I'm thinking this is the problem for the spark but can't work out or remember where it plugs into.
trickysimon ·
Figured out spark issue. But 1 of the banjo fittings into Weber is leaking.
Runs great even without tuning it yet!
Is leaking from both fittings now. Will have to go buy some more copper washers tommorow when the shops are open.
WOOOOOO
Fucking loud 😂
Bizarre ·
Ahhhh.........................the sweet sound of Cecil being sucked
Don't sound like 1600 hey... nice stuff man!!!
sounds like its idling a bit high.... awesome stuff. love it!
trickysimon ·
Still running alot better than the old 1600 with 34 pict 3 and blocked heatrisers did! 😏
colonel mustard ·
hey Simon, it was great to meet you on sunday!
Did you get the fuel leaks sorted??
DaveCarter ·
Sounds good mate. I saw your sub ones as well. I love the box. I think that is the next stage for mine
trickysimon ·
Still up in Queensland atm guys. Going skydiving tomorrow morning, 14,000ft. Can't wait!
Nice to meet you too Jason. Think I sorted the fuel leaks before I left, but the battery went dead before I could really give it a good run.
Shame I didn't meet you Dave, you got some good runs on the Sunday 👍
Was that the 1904cc you were running?
All credit for the sub-box should go to Joel, its pretty much an exact "replica" of one of his. Certainly no lack of bass with two 10 inch subs in there 😏
Mick058 ·
well done mate, bet you cant weight to flog it!
colonel mustard ·
i want to see some flogging video's Simon 🙂
trickysimon ·
I hope your talking about the car 😂😂
Hopefully I'll get around to bleeding the brakes and do the timing tomorrow.
Was water skiing all yesturday and today and only just got home from from out drinking.
See how we go I guess 😵💫
dangerous ·
colonel mustard wrote:i want to see some flogging video's Simon 🙂
Young people these days are SICK!!!😂😂😂
colonel mustard ·
well... I don't know what you thoughtI meant...?
trickysimon ·
Well managed to get the brakes bled but it seems either the battery or the starter has thrown in the towel.
Had the battery on charge for two days, still only barely turned the engine over.
Chucked some jumper leads on but now it doesnt even turn over. Can hear the solanoid clicking though 🙄
colonel mustard ·
jumper leads from what kind of car? how long did you leave them on for. check with a multi meter before you start playing with the the starter.
trickysimon ·
Ran jumper leads from my mates courier. Jumper leads were prob on for 15-20 mins.
I'll get the multimeter out after work tomorrow.
colonel mustard ·
your proabably right. its not likely the battery from what you have said..
colonel mustard ·
Does it just clunk when you try to start it???
CHECK THE OIL LEVEL! and make sure its normal.
trickysimon ·
No it doesnt do anything when you try and start it.
Just the starter solanoid clicks. Oil level is fine, think I'd notice if i lost
2.5 litres of oil since the car has been on jackstands 😂
colonel mustard ·
I mean overly full. if your carbs have leaked fuel into the case., or a cylinder, it will hydro lock and you either wont be able to start it, or bend a rod
mine has done it before. i parked on a hill, and the fuel leaked into the case (over about 8 hours) and then wouldnt start. there was 2.5 litres of oil in there... and about 4 litres of fuel in there.
trickysimon ·
12.86V at the battery means its not the battery, correct?
Bizarre ·
depends what the battery says when you kick it over
It it says 11-12v when kicked over battery is fine
Drops much below this battery is rooted
Batteries can get buckled plates and will read fine under no load but will short out when heavy current applied
trickysimon ·
Righto thanks.
Will do a load test when someone else gets home to turn key for me
trickysimon ·
Battery seems fine. Voltage doesn't drop much when I put headlights on.
Starter motor isn't loading up the battery at all when I turn the key.
This mean its the starter?
trickysimon ·
When I bridge the terminals, it just sparks and clicks the solanoid.
Bizarre ·
Have you hit the solenoid yet with a hammer??
trickysimon ·
Not yet. Ian did suggest that as well, so I'll give it a "flog" tomorrow 😂
Bizarre ·
a couple of short sharp blows
Wife reckons it does wonders for me 🤪
dangerous ·
First see if it will rotate over with a spanner on the crank pulley bolt.
cesiumfrog ·
might be worth just checking you have good clean contacts as well, connected firmly...battery clamps, earth strap, starter cables etc
trickysimon ·
Thanks guys.....I'll dig into it after work 👍
trickysimon ·
Engine still turns over with a big spanner (Are you supposed to hear very faint hissing when it starts compressing?)
Turns out the "clicking solanoid" I could hear was the distributor clicking.
Took the starter out and put jumper leads on it like Ian suggested. Put a screw driver across the points but only got sparks.
Didnt turn it over.
Edit: Just took it to mechanic. He said it prob needs new brushes. Would it be cheaper to do that or to get a new starter?
Bizarre ·
"new starters" are low quality
Get your original German one rebuilt
trickysimon ·
Thanks, I'll take it to an auto elec and see what they say
izac ·
hope you get it sorted soon man. I always have this problem, every time I take the engine out and put it back in theres always something wrong 😂 don't know why, it just always happens though
trickysimon ·
Yeh its always the way isnt it. My car is just a spoilt brat now, wants more money spent on it me thinks 😂
Not like that price tag though 😂
Does that price include the starter motor?
trickysimon ·
Oops, just looked again. The $360 is with starter 🤓
colonel mustard ·
'kombivw' got a crank kit recently... ask him what its like 🙂 probably a good option, espcially with the higher torque + compression
trickysimon ·
Yeh I just read his write up on it actually. If rebuild isn't much different in price to a kranky then I'll go for that.
Not too happy on shelling out any more money though..
colonel mustard ·
you will forever be spending money on it 🙂 thats just part of owning one.
trickysimon ·
Who wants to buy a 74 beetle then? 😂
izac ·
😂 yeah thats what I said about my square... 🙄
dangerous ·
trickysimon wrote:Oops, just looked again. The $360 is with starter 🤓
Sounds like a lot 'till you price a new quality starter.
But then if one ever dies, you can just go to the jap wreckers and get another for very little..
Plus they are self supporting, so never a worry if your starter bush is worn.
Ollie ·
Woo! Enjoying this build up immensely. keep it updated!
trickysimon ·
Thanks Clarke. Too bad the only updates recently have been setbacks😠
colonel mustard ·
It will happen eventually. At least you get paid 🙁 stupid target idiots 🙁
trickysimon ·
Lol barely....$300 a week doesn't go far..
trickysimon ·
Well more bad news. Turns out the armature is stuffed as well as the brushes. So up for new starter.
My options are:
New starter from classic: $170
Kranky subi adaptor and starter: $360
Second-hand starter: $?
Bizarre ·
I thought a rebuilt one was about $170ish
No offence to any shops but pretty sure those cost effective starters are from China and have cost effective bearings in them
trickysimon ·
Yeh they said it would be around $100 to rebuild if the armature is still good.
But its stuffed and they don't have any, so may as well just get a different starter.
Anyone got a good second hand one?
trickysimon ·
Well picked up a secondhand one off one of my mate's dad for $50.
Listen to that baby pur😎
Not really sure what I'm doing timing it though 🙄😂
trickysimon ·
Well its running way rich on the jettings that came with it:
Idle: 50
Main Jet: 160
Air Correction: 185
Venturi: 24
Reading that link that Barry posted, I should have somthing more like:
Idle: 50
Main Jet: 105
Air Correction: 185
Venturi: 24
Does This sound about right?
What other Jets should I buy at the same time and where do I get them from?
Bizarre ·
is it backfiring??
I would be trying to increase the venturis rather than the main jets??
Maybe get them bored out??
I have zip experience with DCNF's but 24's seem way too small
trickysimon ·
Blowing rich smoke and I don't think I've ever seen sparkplugs that black 😂
Is there anywhere I can buy DCN/DCNF venturis instead of getting them machined?
Craig Torrens ·
Ring your engine builder, they should be able to tell you the right setup for the engine.
Idle: 55
Main Jet: 125
Air Correction: 220
Venturi: 32
that setup was apparently designed for (twin carbs on a) 1776
"Hi I bought them 2nd hand, I believe that they were on a 1776. They have 32 vents, 55 idles, 180 air, f24 emulsion tubes & 125 mains. The mains..." - steve carter...
trickysimon ·
Those are some big Air Correction jets, have you run it yet?
colonel mustard ·
nope. I'm only running a single, as its a 1600. I've chatted with Joel, and he thinks the current setup will be suitable for the exhaust im running, to just get a little bit more power out of it.
trickysimon ·
Craig Torrens wrote:Ring your engine builder, they should be able to tell you the right setup for the engine.
He's in the USA 🥲
trickysimon ·
Just got an email back from Aircooled.Net
They said this should be pretty close:
Idle: 50
Main Jet: 105
Air Correction: 185
Venturi: 24
Maybe 45-50 idle
Joel ·
might be a bit small on the mains
im running 125 mains in my 1776 with 45 idles and 180 airs
but thats with 28mm vents
i had some new venturies spun up for my dellorto by a guy on ebay was $45 for 2 what ever size i wanted
ill try and track down who it was but it was 3 years ago so cant promise anything
Bizarre ·
4.2 x 24 = 100.8
Jon Connolly (AC.net) is very good with Webers
trickysimon ·
Joel that would be great thanks.
Don't wanna be choking my engine after all this work 🤓
trickysimon ·
Think there might be a leak somwhere on the drivers side carb.
Adjusting the passenger side idle mixture screw did what they were supposed to.
But when we went to do the drivers side it didn't really change anything.
5 seconds after we turned it off it popped and and a flame came out of the exhaust.
We put synchronising tool on carbys to see what was going on.
On the passnger side carby the ball sat at about the 1st line up. Then when we put it on the
drivers side the ball shot right to the top, hence the thought of a leak somwhere 🙄
Craig Torrens ·
that just means your throttle on the drivers side is open more than the passenger side.... you need to set these first before you do any tuning of the mixtures.👍
trickysimon ·
Meh maybe Phil can explain it better than I can 😂
cesiumfrog ·
ok...i'll have a go
problem. don't seem to be able to achieve a satisfactory idle.
set mixture initially to 1 turn out each and idle screw 1 turn in
timing was set to 30degrees at est engine speed between 2 and 3k rpm
at first start engine idles a little fast..maybe 1000-1200rpm at 12-15 degrees atdc.
managed to adjust mixtures a little b4 engine sped up considerably, turned off.
set all mixtures to the same as rough adjust- 3/4 turn out, turned idle screws in to 1/2 turn out.
engine still runs fast (way fast)
let it rest a while,started again, put sync.thing on left side, ball at first line and steady, put synch tool on right side and ball flew to top and engine tried to stop? pulled it off and engine sped up again.
observations.
inside right carby appeared wet compared to left side a few minutes after turning off.
right side carby top gasket looked a bit tattered..? air leak
a little dirt/sludge/sediment in fuel bowl/float chamber
does this sound like needle and seat?
what effect would a very small air leak under the top cover have?
trickysimon ·
Thanks Phil.
Is $120 a pair for new DCN venturis a good price? Seems a bit steep to me 😵💫
How much would boring mine to 30mm cost?
Bizarre ·
for a pair do you mean 2 or 4??
colonel mustard ·
trickysimon wrote:Thanks Phil.
Is $120 a pair for new DCN venturis a good price? Seems a bit steep to me 😵💫
How much would boring mine to 30mm cost?
how much for a set of idf venturies?
trickysimon ·
Nope I mean a pair, stuff that I reckon. I just decided to buy some 105 mains and some rebuild kits for now.. I'll just get
them bored out if I want to go bigger in the future.
Bizarre ·
Get the 8 off from ebay for $112US
They are 32's
Reckon they are the size you want
Bizarre ·
as for the carb
is the linkage disconnected?
what does it suck on all 4 pots - not just left and right??
have you taken the manifold off?? Is it loose or binding??
What is the plug colour on the right hand side?? If it is an air leak it will send the plug bright white over riding the rich jetting
are the trottle plates definitely shutting off?? not jaming open??
what are the air by pass screws set at?? turn them all in
cesiumfrog ·
thanks bizarre,
yep linkage disconnected,
these carbs have a single throttle shaft each side so idle screw adjust both pots together.
however both left pots were the same and putting uni syn on the right side choked the engine (after the ball was sucked to the top of the gauge)
initially the manifolds were a little loose (the right side was sucking air ) tightened them up. hmmm.. i guess there could be an issue there, will check, but that would create a lean issue?
plug colour on the right is black blackk black
left is grey black
throttle plates....yeah, the stops are very close so they would be closing off properley
air bypass screws? don,t know the answer to that one....don't think these have them...iusually located at the base of the carb ? i'll check..but they would also create lean running?
Joel ·
DCNs are very basic
no air bypass or anything like that
just set the throttle stop screw about 1/2 a turn out and use the mixture screws to set the idle
if your more than about 1.5 turns out the idle jets are too small
less than 1 turn out and there too big
trickysimon ·
Just got an email back from supplier after asking them for some 105 mains:
"I recommend double checking the jet size you need as there is no way that you would need jets that small. Weber dont even make them that small and we have never seen a DCN fitted with anything smaller than around 120 which should be regarded as the minimum size....."
I'll take the carbs off tonight and measure the venturi's, get rid of all confusion.
Bizarre ·
just a thought
Have you disabled the enrichment circuit??
trickysimon ·
Think only the DCNF's have them.....
Joel will surely put us straight though 😂
trickysimon ·
Who says you need a vernier caliper to measure venturis? 😂
Looks like I have 28mm Vents 😀
Bizarre ·
OK that is better
If this is what you have
Idle: 50
Main Jet: 160
Air Correction: 185
Venturi: 28
Then the 160's are WAY too big
You need 115-ish for those vents
Still reckon you need the 32's but lets get it running first
You still have some problem as to why the RHS is over revving
Bizarre ·
OK - you still have the enrichment if you have this bit
personally - i would get rid of it
It the lever moves etc etc it can cause problems
You could probally just take the bit off to test but it definitely needs the plate on there
trickysimon ·
Nope don't have that enrichment thing.
I may have found a possible problem.
Think there is pinholes in the home made manifold in one of the welds.
Would this cause over revving?
I'll order some 120 mains then (better to start rich right?)
trickysimon ·
Pics of pin holes (sorry bout shit quality)
Bizarre ·
anything that lets air in will cause the revs to rise
The fact you have a black plug and a grey plug tells me you have a leak as with the 28's and 160 mains it SHOULD be BLACK
trickysimon ·
Nope the "grey" plug was on the side that wasn't revving high.
It just wasnt as sooty as other side (could actually see electrode)
Do I have to weld the manifolds to seal them or can I wipe somthing around the welds?
Joel ·
no enrichment on DCNs
pin holes can be epoxied over if thereall the way through
my 1776 has 28mm vents an i run 125 mains
your talking 150cc bigger engine
ive got a spare DCN here with 24s in it and there tiny
be lucky to fit a needle through them
cesiumfrog ·
apart from the fact its running too rich, i still reckon there is way to much fuel getting down the right side somehow.
i'm thinking worn or dirt caught in needle/seat leading to flooding
not forgetting that there is an air leak there as well, just to confuse matters further.
simon...i think you should get a smaller main, a pair of top cover gaskets,carby base gaskets,inlet manifold gaskets(fibre ones) a can of carby cleaner and a clean bench.
Bizarre ·
is it dripping down the barrels when the motor is turned off??
cesiumfrog ·
hi B can't say i noticed( eyes stinging from hayfever and petrol/exhaust fumes)..was wet a few minutes after turning off
Joel ·
they really want pulling down and cleaning up with new kits through them
and float levels checked
trickysimon ·
Just ordered some kits and mains, so fingers crossed.
Thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate it 👍
trickysimon ·
Well its running......again..
Is anyone running the metal gaskets from manifold to head?
I think this might be causing leaks. Engine was picking up revs so I shut it off.
Craig Torrens ·
yep...if you're talking about the standard vw ones they are fine.
trickysimon ·
Filed the bottoms of the manifolds and chucked some paper gaskets there instead.
We've got it running pretty sweet now! 😎
Isn't blowing smoke like it used to now its got the smaller mains.
Plugs are cleaner too.
Sorry bout video, was getting dark when I took it. http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii19/trickysimon/?action=view¤t=DSCF2580.flv
dangerous ·
Sounds Good Simon.
What were the specs on the engine again?
I know it is a 1915cc, but what Cam and heads?
Mick058 ·
YEehaa! Well done mate. Now break her in the go play with the locals
Bizarre ·
well done
Personally i use the paper gaskets
trickysimon ·
😁
I have to say, most of the congratulations should go to Phil. Would still be running like a bucket of shit without him.
Dave,
Cam is mild w100
043 40x 35.5
8.3 CR
Counterweighted crankshaft.
Should do for my "first" engine 👍
colonel mustard ·
now its time to upgrade to porsce wheels..... 🙂
trickysimon ·
Thats the plan...gotta take care of a bit of debt first though....😂
trickysimon ·
What does it mean when one mixture screws does the opposite of what its supposed to?
Ie: When you screw mixture in on number two cylinder, rpm keeps increasing, right up until the screw botttoms out.
Joel suggested to check idle jets to see if it is the same as others. Just checked that and its 50, same as others 🤪
Joel ·
have u pulled the screw out yet to make sure the tip isnt fcuked up?
trickysimon ·
Yep. Looks fine to me:
ian.mezz ·
try turning the idle up and down with the idle screw on the linkage at the carby butterfly,
Turn the idle down on that carb then turn the mixture screw out and see if the revs change???
cesiumfrog ·
hey simon..thanks for the thanks
don't think its related to the idle screw..otherwise number one cylinder would behave the same.
i think you need to remove mixture screw and idle jet and blow them out with compressed air or carby cleaner etc, check where the idle jet goes in and make sure its clean and not out of shape, then screw them back in and try again. i'm suspicious there is something not right with the idle jet? (not the mixture screw)
you having fun yet?
phil
trickysimon ·
Already removed mixture screw and sprayed carby cleaner down the hole while engine was running today.
Got the shits after I go carby cleaner in my eye, so I came back inside 😬
Stupid webers!
ian.mezz ·
set the mixture to where the idle speed is normal
it doesn't mater if the screw is out a few turns.
when the motor is running pull the spark plug leads out of the distributor cap one at a time and place them back once the revs drop and
if the carbies working ok it will drop the revs the same on each cylinder. uno what I mean.
ps wear rubber gloves or use rubber handle pliers to prevent getting a zap
trickysimon ·
Thanks Ian.
I'll give that a go when I can bare to look at the engine again 🙄
Bizarre ·
Try swapping the idle jet with another cylinder and see if the problem moves.
I have seen new jets that didnt measure what was stamped
trickysimon ·
Barry- Problem doesnt follow the idle jet. Stay with number 2.
Ian- Pulling off number 1 plug seems to make the only drop 🤪😬🤪😬
Who wants a free boat anchor? 😬
colonel mustard ·
you said free! stupid questions but are your tappets set right?
trickysimon ·
They were set before I got the engine. As I said, engine has been run and broken in and all tht shizz.
Was planning on re-doing them after I had put 50kms or so on it. So prob in like 10 years 🙄
Joel ·
if your really feeling energetic try swapping carbs from side to side see if the problem stays with the carb
I think the problem might be that its in your car not mine jjks, hope you get it sorted out.
trickysimon ·
Haha well if you here a few hours earlier, I would have given you the car.
Was a bit fed up with it 😂
71-BEETLE-SEDAN ·
Yeah i get like that, storm into the house sit at the computer and read something to cheer me up while mum is going calm down itll be right. Get like that a fair bit, but not lately its been running well lately knock on wood,.
Craig Torrens ·
sell those carbs and stop wasting time and money on them....................buy some good Kadrons or 40 idf's
trickysimon ·
Why? I'm pretty close arn't I?
Don't wanna have to start all over again... 🤪
trickysimon ·
How do you tell if your new fuel pump is leaking? 🙄
Fuel levels in both carbys seem fine but my oil level is going up..
trickysimon ·
Hmm just read on thesamba that new fuel pumps are usually high pressure causeing the engine to keep sucking fuel
after the engine has stopped. Could a fuel pressure regulator be on the cards?
Grease in fuel pump hasn't been washed away if that helps..
cesiumfrog ·
simon...don't get paranoid...you did put a couple gaskets under th pump? and correct rod length?
people have been using standard type pump with modded engines/carbies forever without the need for reg.
what else is happening?
phil
trickysimon ·
Well the oil is pretty watery and clear....hard to see what the level is up to. Its definetly going up though.
Did put gaskets under fuel pum and checked rod length. Are you at work?
cesiumfrog ·
yeah at work.
does it feel like oil....smell like petrol? hot weather makes oil runnier.
trickysimon ·
Hmm cant really comment on the smell..off sick with the flu...blocked nose 😂
colonel mustard ·
welll...... it could be fuel. Mine does that if i park it on a hill, the needle and seat just leaks heaps of fuel into the case. one night i did it and hydro locked the engine... not good.
If your checking it when its cold and its well above the line on the dipstick, you have issues! drop it and change the oil. its not worth blowing it apart for the $$'s of new oil. also, if you have too much oil, it will cause your engine to miss... a lot!!!!...
trickysimon ·
Yeh dad reckons I'm just being paranoid as well. Its wierd, after I started it up and then let it sit for few hours the oil level is back to the right level so maybe I'm just going crazy 🤓
On a positive note: Finally got thottle cable hooked up and working so checklist for taking it for a drive anyone?!😎
trickysimon ·
WOOOOO!!!
Pulls like a cut cat!
Ratios are awesome thanks Dave! 👍 😀😀😀😵💫
trickysimon wrote:WOOOOO!!!
Pulls like a cut cat!
Ratios are awesome thanks Dave! 👍 😀😀😀😵💫
that sounds like it wouldn't pull the skin off of a rice pudding🤪😂🤪😂🤪 just joking
its sounds a bit tappety or is that the exhaust???
yeah there goes his licence 😂🙅😂
trickysimon ·
I'll prob check the tappets and drop the oil just for the hell of it now. On a bit of an adreneline high atm 😂
ian.mezz ·
trickysimon wrote:I'll prob check the tappets and drop the oil just for the hell of it now. On a bit of an adreneline high atm 😂
yeah don't let all that power go to your head.😂
dangerous ·
Good work Simon,
you should be proud of all your hard work.
I am sure your oldies are also proud of you too....it is their job to embarass their kids,
but I am sure you kow they mean well.
trickysimon ·
Thanks Dave.
Can't take credit for all the hard work though,
and as soon as I calm down a bit I'll try and thank you all 🤪
Heres a list of people I have to thank. If I've forgotten you let me know and I'll put you on the list.
cesiumfrog
Joel
Bizarre
ian.mezz
Rod Penrose
Dangerous
mactaylor
Craig Torrens
Mick058
beetleboyjeff
colonel mustard
hellbugged
matberry
VVD
CVD
Micks Motors
Until my next question....
Joel ·
better remember to start stradelling that driveway
be a shame to see that shiny new sidewinder all scratched
you must feel like a proud dad now 👍
trickysimon ·
Yeh, I can usually stradle it but dad parked his Peugot there.
Mmmmm nothing like maxing out a speedo 😏
and Craig, I can vouch for your 5 bar kit now 😉
71-BEETLE-SEDAN ·
Ive gone close to maxin the speedo in my stock 1.6.
You should get some tread plate to put down in your diveway so that its a flatter angle.
ian.mezz ·
trickysimon wrote:Mmmmm nothing like maxing out a speedo 😏
Good to hear that you are taking it easy with that new motor🙅🤪
you should be able to go off the speedo in 3rd gear, you ll have to ask Joel if you can use his test track😂😂
trickysimon ·
3rd gear is 100km/h for me.
Ratios are awesome. Still short but better cruising and top speed 😎
Car is running rich though. Starting to backfire under load and smells rich.
ian.mezz ·
trickysimon wrote:3rd gear is 100km/h for me.
Ratios are awesome. Still short but better cruising and top speed 😎
Car is running rich though. Starting to backfire under load and smells rich.
you may have to try a set of hotter spark plugs.so the fuel burns a bit better and the plugs dont foul.
we went one number hotter plug and it made our 1916 smoother to drive.
trickysimon ·
What plugs are you running Ian?
Im running 14mm 3/4" B6ES
ian.mezz ·
trickysimon wrote:What plugs are you running Ian?
Im running 14mm 3/4" B6ES
I will have a look 2moz ,😊bosch w ? ac I think
trickysimon ·
Cheers.
Nah mine are NGK
Joel ·
ian.mezz wrote:
trickysimon wrote:Mmmmm nothing like maxing out a speedo 😏
Good to hear that you are taking it easy with that new motor🙅🤪
you should be able to go off the speedo in 3rd gear, you ll have to ask Joel if you can use his test track😂😂
redlines are perfext for break in mr mezz
thought you knew 😉
trickysimon ·
Just adjusted the tappets to .15mm and it seemed to stop it backfiring?
Could this have been the cause?
Bizarre ·
yes
cesiumfrog ·
yeah..could be..would definitely make it less noisy, less rattely, but .15?
shouldn't that be .06/.08 ?
put some air in your tyres?
have you given it a bath? always run better after a bath.
hellbugged ·
trickysimon wrote:Just adjusted the tappets to .15mm and it seemed to stop it backfiring?
Could this have been the cause?
yes..........but what were they set at before?
trickysimon ·
Thats 0.15mm / 0.006".
Seems to be back to back firing. In lower revs, say when you try to pull out of a corner.
Does this mean I just have to change my idle settings?
71-BEETLE-SEDAN ·
really, 100 in third is only 200ks more than my 1.6, but yeah wish mine had tha little bit extra go.
hellbugged ·
exhaust gaskets.........intakes down nice and tight?
trickysimon ·
No soot around ports and fairly sure there is no air leaks.
71-BEETLE-SEDAN: Can your 1.6 also blow off a 3.2 V6? 😎
Bizarre ·
Now Simon
After all those videos of your lovely mum, SURLEY you have not been........... um...........pushing it??
😂
71-BEETLE-SEDAN ·
Cant say ive tried but simple mechanics would suggest not, thats why i would love to have that bit extra under my deck
Bizarre ·
71-BEETLE-SEDAN wrote:thats why i would love to have that bit extra under my deck
mmmmm....................wouldnt we all like that 😂
Well - that is what wifey tell me 😬
CrazyBug ·
haha
awesome bug wish mine was so well endowed in the go fast compartment
give it heaps Simon......the 5 bar kit will let you have some fun in it ! 👍
P.s. Its Saturday night so go out and carve up some fords and holdens 😀
I've just got back from having fun in my old hillclimb car...geez its good blowing away new cars with a VW 😂
colonel mustard ·
so..... I still havent seen a shot with the air cleaners on... or the rear tinware in!
trickysimon ·
Aircleaners are on.....what rear tinware piece? 😁
Nah I'm gunna put it on.
Was just making sure I didnt need to mess around with anything below it.
Also need to run a breather pipe to the aircleaner.
Craig: Notice no wheel hop in the video 👍
Craig Torrens ·
😁........it will certainly save your diff !
trickysimon ·
Booked in for dyno next tuesday.
Who wants to guess numbers?
I reckon 70hp😎
ian.mezz ·
47 to 52HP
yOU can get a bigger reading if you pump your tyres upto about 40psi
and dont get your motor to hot before you get on the dyno.
and if its a hot day dont go. wait until its back in the low 20 deg temp like early morning.
and they tell me run it in 3rd gear on that shotout mode on dyno.What ever that means.
ps I hope all this B s HELPS YOU 😂🤪🙅🤪😂
trickysimon ·
Haha might have to check the weather forecast.
Definitely gunna be a horsepower hero! 🙅
ian.mezz ·
trickysimon wrote:Haha might have to check the weather forecast.
Definitely gunna be a horsepower hero! 🙅
you can also run a thinner motor oil like 5/30
and premium unleaded petrol.
and two bags of ice sitting on top of your carbies.
71-BEETLE-SEDAN ·
How much do you recknon its cost you to getit two where it is now?
Roughly, getting some ideas thats all.
trickysimon ·
As in the whole car or just engine and gearbox?
I really dont think you wanna know 😂
Ian, I might try thinning the oil down with some water...might get me a few extra ponies 🤓
ian.mezz ·
Na that don't work Joel's already tried it🤪😂🤪
you could also back off the rear brake shoes so that they are not rubbing on the drum causing drag.
trickysimon ·
Could also try some of his STI red on some parts.
Another 20hp there 😂
Joel ·
how very dare you
its toro mower touch up paint thank you very much
Joel ·
Ian, hydrogen in the oil adds extra combustion
thought you knew......
71-BEETLE-SEDAN ·
Na not gearbox just the engine. I wanna go bigger thn 1.6 i think maybe this will scare me straight,
trickysimon ·
I reckon around 5k?
Could have been done alot cheaper though.
Didn't "need" the sidewinder, or the new tinware, serpentine kit etc etc
71-BEETLE-SEDAN ·
OKay, well that sorted me out for a little while. Its good to see another p plater who likes to test there dub to its limits.
typethreeking ·
isnt 5k what you would pay for a good stock rebuild, should cost twicw that to make it go hard, my first n/a engine cost 11k!!
trickysimon ·
Faaaark. What was your first n/a engine?
typethreeking ·
my first n/a engine was a 2165cc speedway engine which i reworked to a 2332cc with 48ida"s and numerous other modes. i brought the engine for 2k and then 9k was for the machine work done by dangerous while he worked for crankshaft engineering. Since this was done the engine has been pulled apart and reworked to a turbo efi set which blew the cost out to around 30k with all things that go along with this amount of modes and now the engine will come out of my fastback and go into my tube chassis drag car were more modes and boost increase will take place. No one said going fast was cheap!!
trickysimon ·
😵You can say that again!
mactaylor ·
you can say that again.
Craig Torrens ·
that again
colonel mustard ·
That.
matberry ·
typethreeking wrote:No one said going fast was cheap!!
Having said that, you dont always need to spend 5 figure sums on a FAST engine, and I dont build hand grenades (altho that can be arranged)😂. It depends on what you have to rebuild, the last two stroker motors I've built have both been under 8k, and we're talking well setup, blueprinted and balanced, headwork etc, producing over 100rwhp.
trickysimon ·
Matt do you have a rough estimate of how much 150hp atw 2332 would cost?
Is that definitely over 10k?
71-BEETLE-SEDAN ·
Simon you only just got your car back on the road and you want bigger, good to hear, if you havent got anyone in mind i shotty your engine if you upgrade.
trickysimon ·
Haha yeh well I will be going bigger eventually. Won't be for a long while yet though.
Gotta kill this engine first 😏
71-BEETLE-SEDAN ·
I was gunna add if you dont kill it. I dont think ill be staying air cooled much longer anyway.
matberry ·
trickysimon wrote:Matt do you have a rough estimate of how much 150hp atw 2332 would cost?
Is that definitely over 10k?
Definately NO. Carbys and 150 rwhp can be under 10k.
trickysimon ·
Rich much?
Best of 62.2 backfiring the whole time.
Operator reckons easy 70 when tuned.
Blue is power, taken in 4th gear.
trickysimon wrote:Haha yeh well I will be going bigger eventually. Won't be for a long while yet though.
Gotta kill this engine first 😏
No need to go bigger........just re do yours better 😎
trickysimon ·
Smartass 😂
Craig Torrens ·
😉
trickysimon ·
Thanks for the info Troy👍
trickysimon ·
Took my bro and a few of his mates to their year 10 formal yesturday:
dangerous ·
What is the latest Simon?
Did you sort out the popping and banging/jetting problems?
Been checking the throttle response?
trickysimon ·
Have ordered 115 mains and 45 idles so hopefully they should be here before the weekend.
Hopefully I'll be able to get it running sweet and find some more power with these.
Have three weeks holidays after next Thursday so will have plenty of time to fiddle with it, FINALLY!
trickysimon ·
Well chucked the jets in today and it seems to have fixed it.
When I take my foot off the gas it makes soft pops out the exhaust but
I'm thinking tht is an exhaust leak from hitting the muffler all the time.
Umm just so I'm aware; what are symptoms of running lean (Don't wanna melt somthing)
Dyno operator said I could bring the car back for a free run when I get it jetted properly,
so if its still running good after tomorrow I might take it later in the week to check a/f and compare power. 😀
dangerous ·
Hi Simon,
Probably start by puting some fresh plugs in it.
When you go to the dyno, the best plan is to use the dyno as a tool, to tune.
He should own a probe for the exhaust, and then be able to tell you which direction you need to change the jettng.
Lean symptoms are quite varied.
Generally it will pop back through the intake,
but it may run a little hotter,
or possibly ping under load.
but on a dyno, there will be a power loss, and the mixture sensor will tell you it is lean.
If you think,(with all the information the dyno tells you), that it IS lean,
going steps of 0.05mm at atime on the fuel jets to get it closer.
trickysimon ·
Thanks Dave.
Some good advice there 👍
trickysimon ·
Why do I even bother? 😂🤪🙅
Muffler decided to bottom out today and take the rocker cover off.
Luckily I was only 20 meters from work's carpark.
Got picked up by mum, grabbed the rocker cover, bail and gasket off my old engine
and problem was fixed within the hour. I did accidently overfill the oil level by about a litre,
so I had to nurse it home hoping that I wouldn't get home to a a big oily mess. All good though.
They way I see it, if I get all the accidents out of the way early, I won't have to deal with them later in life 😂
Craig can you please take a picture of the bracket holding your sidewinder muffler up please?
Bizarre ·
trickysimon wrote:
Cant you put a bit of flat bar from the tab up to one of the guard bolts???
matberry ·
It's just a bit of flat bar that goes from the tag on the muffler to the lower exhaust. You can easily make one, flat steel, something like 15-20mm x 3-5mm thick flat bar with 2 x 8mm holes in each end. Easy peasy. I'll take a pic of one here if you want. Don't go to the body anywhere as the engine moves independently of the body work.
trickysimon ·
Yeh I flattened out a lawn mower blade and drill some holes in the that, but it vibrated the bolts out and it fell off.
Am also missing one of the bolts that holds the muffler to the header. This would be the reason for the popping when off the throttle.
I think im gunna have to raise the back of the car a bit, 75mm from the ground to the muffler simply isnt enough 🙄
hellbugged ·
i use a proper exhaust rubber mount and tie it to the body, but yeah definately not solid to the body as Matt says
Joel ·
its alot of weight for just the collector flange bolts to try and support.
if the bolts backed out they either wern't tight enough or you need nylock nuts
ian.mezz ·
like I have been tyring to tell everybody gentleman raise your cars😂🤪😂
matberry ·
Here's a pic of one that goes directly onto the exhaust stud. Not bolted up all the way but you get the idea. Look to see you have clearance to the tappet cover and the collector is properly fitted with all the bolts and even a fresh gasket, before measuring how long a brace is required. Sorry for the phone pic at night.
Oh and dont worry about the cable tie on the exhaust, it's been there for transportation, not running.
Bizarre ·
I used one of the auto shop things that had a hi temp rubber vibration bit
Again - you get the idea
colonel mustard ·
My fatboy just has a small flange with a hole on the top. A put a long bolt through it, added a Mazda tribute rubberexhaust mount and hung it off the body. 🙂 it doesn't move much at all.
trickysimon ·
Thanks for the pictures, I'll see what I can do.
trickysimon ·
Well I made up a bracket yesturday for the exhaust.
Also took the car back to the dyno. Car made the same power (63.6hp) but much smoother in the rev range.
The a/f ratio was at low 13s and went to high 13s under load. Is this too lean?
Craig Torrens ·
trickysimon wrote:The a/f ratio was at low 13s and went to high 13s under load. Is this too lean?
Yes..........aim for around 12.5 under load.
13's will give you higher HP readings, but it doesn't leave you any margin for "poor" fuel. It will also run hotter and be extremely lean on hot days or altitude driving.
trickysimon ·
Thanks Craig.
I'll try putting only the bigger mains in and leaving the smaller 45 idles.
trickysimon ·
Well time for an update.
Beetle has been my daily driver again for about a month, and glad to say that it has been trouble-free driving 😀
Much of that time was spent fanging around in 40+ degree heat.
Its a great feeling when random people come up to you and ask you if thats a porsche engine under the bonnet 😂
The engine is running great except for farting out the exhaust at light throttle at low rpm (cruising at 50km/h in third at 2400)
This is still on the idle circuit isn't it? It doesn't run rough or anything and as soon as I stomp on the throttle it goes away.
Bizarre ·
You definitely have your mixtures set till it "just" runs sweet??
I had similar and went away went i spent some time and got it right
trickysimon ·
You mean the actual screw settings and not the jets?
I thought they only mattered at idle?
matberry ·
The idle screw is at idle. As the throttle opens the progression ports start to deliver fuel, this is now governed by the idle jet, but the total amount is still influenced by both the screw and the jet, then the main starts to deliver, but the total is still the sum of all the ports.
trickysimon ·
How much do they actually contribute off idle though?
matberry ·
They make a difference....bottom line. More difference to progression than main.....it's a percentage thing.
Bizarre ·
Here is a "carb procedures"
If it doesnt work send me you email and i will send it to you
trickysimon ·
Great article 👍
So does it mean its running rich or lean? (I know its a bit hard over the internet.)
colonel mustard ·
where are the updates?
trickysimon ·
Not a great deal really.
Haven't driven it much since the tensioner pulley decided to fall off while I was driving.
Too lazy to swap back to standard atm and its proving hard to find a replacement.
I've decided to buy a second car, just don't have the time or money to keep the beetle as a daily driver.
So I'm currently in the market for somthing with Vr6 and preferably 4-Motion 😉
Even though the Beetle is faster than my bro's Vr6 Golf, it should be a nice upgrade to have somthing that
doesnt leave you deaf. Plus: electric windows, aircon, heater and 5 speed.
Craig Torrens ·
Let me guess..... was it the top pulley ?
Mick058 ·
buy an sti engine instead. 😁
Craig Torrens ·
yeah Mick was Extremely happy with his conversion 😉😵💫😊
trickysimon ·
Nah the actual tensioner pulley and bracket decided to unscrew.
Mick, does the engine come with a free car? 😀
colonel mustard ·
It did a month ago before it was all pulled down.
thanks simon for showing us (mainly the noobs) how much a 1916 upgrade involves and costs.
Thanks.
You have to be registered to view it, so I'll take a squiz after work. 😀
trickysimon ·
Picked up my new toy yesturday: 👍
Will start a new thread for it in the watercooled section.
trickysimon ·
Just turned 20 and got my full license. So, put a V8 or turbo in the Beetle? 😂 (Both?) 😂
Ollie ·
Congrats on full license! It's a great feeling ripping those p plates off :
trickysimon ·
Thanks man. I might go have a burn on the highway since I can do 110km/h now (legally)
Ollie ·
Haha you should! Cruise down Sydney way if you're bored! you running the bug or the VR6?
trickysimon ·
Haven't driven the Beetle since I bought the Bora😊
Ollie ·
Oh Bora - Course I just scrolled up and had a squiz (of course)
Hey what box are you using in your beetle? (the one in your sig?)
trickysimon ·
Dave Butler built that for me.
Late 1300 Swing Axle Box
4.125 crownwheel and pinion,
3.7778 first gear,
2.0588 second,
a closer ratio coarse tooth 1.3182 third,(welded synchro cone)
and a Kombi-1800, 0.889 fouth gear.
Super diff and HD Sideplate