I'm new in the forum and i feel very glad to find you.
My project is a super 1303 with EJ20NA JDM SOHC suby engine with many porsche goodies and other performance parts.
The electrician have done the wiring fitment with the stock ECU,radiator is fitted at the front and working with no problems,temperature is good,but.....
always there is but....and here it is:
when the engine starts (cold) it rev's around 6500rpm with no problem(the torque is amazing!!!)but when the heat reach 70celcius it cannot pass 3000rmps!
It seems that the ECU turns the motor in safe mode but i dont know WHY???
I have built a new custom exhaust and the sensor has been added here
Please advice because I'm really desparate馃槩馃槩
Thanks in advance
Jim
mackaymanx 路
Do you have a speed sensor?
Do you have the heater hoses looped or blocked?
I presume the last photo is your o2 sensor
555bug 路
hey mate nice ride 馃檪 quick question for you where did you get your sump? In relation to your issues have you tried to get the error code from the ecu? this will assist you in diagnosing the issue. If you don't have the service manual I can probably sort you out.
Stephen
Baja Wes 路
Is your temperature guage the Subaru unit, or an aftermarket unit? And is it using the Subaru temp sender, or an additional sender?
If it's a seperate sender your reading, then maybe there is a problem with the suby temp sender and it thinks it's hotter than it is. In that case you'd notice it turning the fans on quite early.
flat_iv 路
Nice muffler. What type of muffler do you have or where did it come from?
ratbug 路
I was thinking of the speed sensor as well. Can you short the diagnosis connector and rig up a lamp up to see what code its faulting on?
The sump looks to be one of the bug@5speed sumps from Germany.
OZ Towdster 路
I'mm just a novis when it comes to these subie ecu's but i dought it has anything to do with the speed sensor as they will drive quite happily with out these with the main symptom of no speed censor being that they will stall when stoping as the ecu cannot map quickly enough when sudenly back at idle as opposed to knowing it is going to stop via the speed sensor . Sorry for the dribble on but hey its hard to explain.
I would be more inclined to look at what Baja Wes suggested and also set up the engine light permantly as it will save you many hours of head scratching and alert you to any fault at any time which depending on what fault can save you quite a few dollars etc even if its just in time alone ie : being able to tell your mechanic or helper what it did or code etc.
By the way Jim nice car and where are you in this big old world of ours mate
supa74 路
i agree with Flat - nice muffler. looks to be custom made, ???
ratbug 路
Yeah i'm only going off my experience with the speed sensor. I have the sensor driven off the front wheels using the original speedo cable. Everything was fine until I went to get it dyno tuned (on the dyno the front wheels don't turn). It apparently did one and a bit runs and then the dyno operator said the ECU light came on, and then he couldnt get any power out of it and that it was cutting out. I then had to drive it home and it wouldnt rev past 3000rpm and was severely down on power. Got home, shorted the diagnosis connector and it flashed the speed sensor signal. Reset the ECU and then it was all good again.
rocknrob 路
OZ Towdster wrote:I'mm just a novis when it comes to these subie ecu's but i dought it has anything to do with the speed sensor as they will drive quite happily with out these with the main symptom of no speed censor being that they will stall when stoping as the ecu cannot map quickly enough when sudenly back at idle as opposed to knowing it is going to stop via the speed sensor . Sorry for the dribble on but hey its hard to explain
Ahhh! that explains occasional cutting out at the lights馃槵 I'll hook up the speed sensor one day but meantime i'm in the habit of a light foot on the pedal til its idling nice馃お
Bugaru03 路
Folks,thanks for your kind words, this gives me the motive to continue the hard work and keep patient for any unexpected issues!
Nice muffler. What type of muffler do you have or where did it come from?
The exhaust is custom maded by a machine shop in Greece!The decision of the final header is mine because i love the Boxter style finishing.
quick question for you where did you get your sump?
The sump is from Martins shop(Bug5atspeed) in Germany with very good quality and good clearance.
Is your temperature guage the Subaru unit, or an aftermarket unit? And is it using the Subaru temp sender, or an additional sender?
It's definetely not a subaru unit but I don't remember it.
The temp sender is the Subaru one.
Do you have a speed sensor?
Do you have the heater hoses looped or blocked?
I presume the last photo is your o2 sensor
No I dont have a speed sensor.Can I by-pass it or do I have to buy a new one?
Yes the last photo shows the o2 sensor.
What do you mean looped or blocked?
I will try this week to run a test from the OBD slot in order to see what is the wrong code.
OZ Towdster 路
What they mean by looped or blocked is this.
Looped ~ This is the way you should have it set up and is as follows , basicully you as suggested loop or join your two heater pipes at the engine together with a pipe or hose etc so as water can continually flow through the system which in tern also controls your thermastat.
Blocked ~ This of coarse is the oposite inthat you have the two heater lines from your motor blocked of seperatley which in tern will cause massive overheating problems through not being able to control the thermastat.
Hope this helps explain things for now .
We all await your findings so we can all help a fellow dubber
mackaymanx 路
Sounds like a speed sensor problem, I would suggest a VDO one as you are in Europe. I try and find the right part number for you.
Edit: You want the FORD / GM one, not the Japanese
EDIT!
Ah - my mistake: I didn't see the 'Japanese' one here was double ended; it looked like a conventional gearbox-mounted OE-style VSS, not an inline one
With screw-in mounting, would be the pick assuming its outout is compatible with what the Subaru PCM wants to 'see'
gazman 路
We have a similar setup to Elusive Stranger on the V6 bus, works well although our vss was custom made by V6 Conversions.
ElusiveStranger 路
EDIT!
Ah - my mistake: I didn't see the 'Japanese' one here was double ended; it looked like a conventional gearbox-mounted OE-style VSS, not an inline one
With screw-in mounting, would be the pick assuming its outout is compatible with what the Subaru PCM wants to 'see'
Just to confirm, the Brantz Ford/GM VSS is the correct thread for T1 and T2 speedo drives
The Brantz Japanese VSS uses a larger thread size.
Dero 路
Nice thread! Oh love the sump, mine is coming in the next week or so 馃榾
Bugaru03 路
Update..
The electrician remembers that the wiring loom does not have an OBD slot and he tells me that he will try to find a 14pin slot in order to take signal from the diagnostic machine.
Then we will be able to see if the problem is the VSS or the O2 sensor or something else..
Does anyone have a diagram of what to expect in error codes from the ECU?
BTW the Brantz model I have is BR04, Fits nicely on the back of the kombi speedo.
Bugaru03 路
Thanks in advance for you help!
Let's see how it will goes..
Rgrds,
Jim
Bugaru03 路
This weekend I have planned to change the rear inner & outer urethane bushings and also to replace the front sway bar with a new one and a camber kit++.
Finally we drop the rear and the result is awesome.
Next step is to adapt rear spacers with longer wheel studs!
I hope by the end of next week to solve the ECU problem..and then to enjoy quick rides!
stay tuned for more..
Bugaru03 路
update..
pics from the alignment shop
finally got the Brantz sensor (really appreciate all of you quys!!!) and plug in this behind the speedometer with a little modification in the speedo cable.
..hope by end of the day to solve the rpm issue..
Brad 路
mmm can you tell me what gen your engine is ?
In OZ the EJ20NA JDM SOHC would be like a gen 3, ie 97 on and be OBD2 with a 3 Plug 16 Bit ECU. ( yes I see that it is JDM (Jap Domestic Market) but they had a few options.) If you don't know what year it is have a look under the oil filler cap and there will be a year stamped there.
Reason I ask is that is will make a difference to what pin you want to use to get the ECU code out of it.
On the gen 1 and gen 2 EJ series engines the "limp" mod will limit the revs to around 1200 RPM and a speed sensor will not cause it go into "limp" mod.
Have to checked your charge circuit ? if the ECU is not getting 11.9v as a bare minimum it will go into limp mod. It preffers 12.9 - 13.9 but limp will not kick into 11.9 or lower.
There are a heap of other things to check such as your AFM, a bad connection or faulty unit will kick in limp and limit your revs.
What happens if you reset (or leave your ECU unplugged for 15mins) does the problem go away for a while or is it straight back agin when you run it ?
ElusiveStranger 路
Buggy Brad wrote:In OZ the EJ20NA JDM SOHC would be like a gen 3, ie 97 on and be OBD2 with a 3 Plug 16 Bit ECU. ( yes I see that it is JDM (Jap Domestic Market) but they had a few options.) If you don't know what year it is have a look under the oil filler cap and there will be a year stamped there. Appols for butting in here. You might like some info on UK spec to add to your list... Mine's a 97-98 EJ20 NA. OBD-I, 9 pin (actually 10 pin but one's a taboo)
Reason I ask is that is will make a difference to what pin you want to use to get the ECU code out of it.
On the gen 1 and gen 2 EJ series engines the "limp" mod will limit the revs to around 1200 RPM and a speed sensor will not cause it go into "limp" mod. Mine does require the VSS to be fully functional. She'll basically cut the ign if you hold a constant throttle for more than a couple of mins. (Not good when overtaking at 80 odd mph!)
Also the VSS is one of the 2 variables for fan operation, the other is temperature. The fan cuts in at 95掳C at under 55mph. As I said, this is only for your reference.
Brad 路
ElusiveStranger wrote:
Buggy Brad wrote:In OZ the EJ20NA JDM SOHC would be like a gen 3, ie 97 on and be OBD2 with a 3 Plug 16 Bit ECU. ( yes I see that it is JDM (Jap Domestic Market) but they had a few options.) If you don't know what year it is have a look under the oil filler cap and there will be a year stamped there. Appols for butting in here. You might like some info on UK spec to add to your list... Mine's a 97-98 EJ20 NA. OBD-I, 9 pin (actually 10 pin but one's a taboo)
Reason I ask is that is will make a difference to what pin you want to use to get the ECU code out of it.
On the gen 1 and gen 2 EJ series engines the "limp" mod will limit the revs to around 1200 RPM and a speed sensor will not cause it go into "limp" mod. Mine does require the VSS to be fully functional. She'll basically cut the ign if you hold a constant throttle for more than a couple of mins. (Not good when overtaking at 80 odd mph!)
Also the VSS is one of the 2 variables for fan operation, the other is temperature. The fan cuts in at 95掳C at under 55mph. As I said, this is only for your reference.
Sweet, thanks heaps for the info, always happy to learn more.
Is your a twin cam or a single cam ?
Got any pics of the ECU / Engine ?
Bugaru03 路
Well...
after many thoughts and discusions over this forum regarding the rpm issue i have,finally at the end the problem was solved by whome?? but ofcourse by you guys!!!
We plug the vss sensor behind the speedometer and give to it the correct signal from the ECU.The only extra adjustment we had to do was to make longer the speedo cable in order to attach it in the back of vss.And then voila!The engine revs to limit high of 6500rpms without problem and right now it starts to feel like a true sleeper in the road and reminds me what are the true benefits of this transplant!!!!!!!!!!For the moment i've attached a digital rev meter and make some adjustments.
Next plans are finally to add the rear spacers and raise the suspension.
Again thanks & regards to everybody help me pass this issue and more to come next week...
Cheers,
Jim
ElusiveStranger 路
@ Jim : Glad you got it sorted fella. Nice ride (sorry I forgot to say that before)
@ Brad: Single cam, can do you photos for sure of the ECU.
You still haven't sent me any stickers though!!!! (I got the TB inverter off you, about 18 mths ago)
TMI interior karpets in and still to come the spacers for rear wheels(CSP is a bit slow馃憥)but these doesnt bother me to test the car daily in the roads..
The pedal opens the butterfly needs some modification in order to get full throtle,some hoses will be changed with silicon ,a set of running boards to be install and i assume that at the end of the month i will be ready to go in the dyno and plug the Dastek unichip ECU!!!
[/URL][/img]
[/URL][/img]
In car video recorded by myshelf(bit dangerous in the road by one hand + friends cars)
Again the problem appears in the VSS.It stops to give signal in to the ECU..
Can i bypass the error code and if yes how can i do it?
Also until now no way found on how to read from my 14pin OBD..
Please see attached pictures and if anyone knows anything about this problem please advice.
The OBD slot appears with read color.
Regards,
Jimmy
Brad 路
Thet looks a lot like an OBD1 Plug but I will have a look for you, as I am doing a 3 Plug loom on the weekend. Down here the OBD1's ran until about 97 and where usually orange in colour. Being a JDM though I would have thought it was similiar. I note on the ECU it has 2007 written, is yours a 2007 model ?
I am pretty sure I have a U4 ECU and Loom in the shed so will see what diagnostics plug it has on it, never really paid that much attention.
Ok guessing it is an OBD1 as it ain;t an OBD2, then can you tell me what wires go into the back of it ? You should also have a green plug with single wire and a black plug with single wire. These will be near the relay block usually.
Do you have a dash light setup to give out warning codes ?
If you find the green and the black plugs then plug them if you plug the green togeather the ECU should cycle the fan and fuel pump and if you plug the black togeather then you should get the warning light flashing.
Anyway as I am not 100% on the 3 Plug looms off the top of my head I will check the diagrams and pin outs and let you what you should be doing by pin out, that is if it is the same, so confirm the year if you can.
Got anymore pics of your radiator setup ?
1303Steve 路
Hi Jim
Silly question, where did you get your 240kph speedo from?
Something occurred to me a while ago regarding the VSS, what happens when you put the car on a dyno, will you get a error code because the front wheels aren't turning and operating the VSS?
Maybe someone else has got around this, but I thought that you could spin the VSS with an electric drill at the appropriate time to avoid error codes.
Steve
seagull 路
I have one of those speedos steve , was for my project
ElusiveStranger 路
Bugaru03 wrote:Again the problem appears in the VSS.It stops to give signal in to the ECU..
Have you wired it correctly?
12V (has the fuse blown?), Ground (earth) & output to ECU?
You can test it works ok by:
Remove the VSS unit from the speedo & cable, connect a volt meter (either digital or analogue) to the output, meter -ve to chassis. Make sure 12v is being supplied to the VSS. Rotate the drive on the VSS while watching the meter - there should be four 5V pulses per revolution.
1303Steve 路
seagull wrote:I have one of those speedos steve , was for my project
Hi Neil
Is it for an L bug or flatscreen bug?
Steve
Bugaru03 路
Buggy Brad..
No the model is not from 2007(they told me it's from 97 to 99 model) just the guy who sell it to me has wrote on it for his own purposes i guess.
I have a dash light warning and when the ECU diagnosis a problem then the light opens & remains until to reset the error code by unpluged the battery wire for a while...but then after 3klm the error code appears again.
The most weird came today when i drove the car in to electrician the car for a distance about 20klm it revs under 6000rpms without warning light and no error code!
This drives me crazy because i cannot understand what is going on with this crazy VSS setup馃槵馃槵馃槵
Anyway my biggest problem is that i cannot connected through the 14pin slot in order to be ready anytime to diagnose the error codes and also upgrade it with a paraller ECU(Dastek unichip).
Does also anyone of you knows how can i increase the rev limit from 6500 to 7000rpms??
I will took some pictures for you in the afternoon!
Steve..
The speedo was purchased from a friend of mine in Greece but i think there is a company in Europe who sells this speedos.I will try to find info for you.
Please help!!!
Kind rergards,
Jimmy
ian.mezz 路
i have NO speed sensor and it drives great
The check light does'nt even come on.馃お
Factory ECU.1996
Brad 路
Ok so you have an engine warning light and it is giving you the VSS code (33) coming up on your warning light, yeah ?
This is an intermitant problem yeah ?
So what do you need to get out of the Diag Plug ?
Have you check your voltage on the VSS ? and made sure it is correct and the signal is correct and there are enough pulses per revolution on your wheel ? Don't forget if you get that wrong the VSS will think you are going quicker than you are and the ECU may be speed limited.
ElusiveStranger 路
ian.mezz wrote:i have NO speed sensor and it drives great
The check light does'nt even come on.馃お
Factory ECU.1996
Lucky you 馃檪
But Jim's stated his is a 97-99 which if it's anything like my UK spec 98 Impreza 2.0 NA does not run properly without a VSS. Mine will go into limp mode if the throttle is held at a constant opening for any duration of time (3 mins or so). Seriously it is a bitch!
I think Jim's got a dodgy wire somewhere or has lost the 12V supply to the VSS unit. Check out the wires & operation as I said a few posts up. It worked when you first fitted it.
Bugaru03 路
Mike..
When i first got it it runs good about a month and then the problem started when i get the error code in the warning light.
I hope todays feedback from the electrician to solve it and proceed in the next step of your drawning maybe.
The most weird here in Greece is that nobody has a 14pin slot & the software ofcourse, in order to get in the ECU through a laptop and make some adjustments..such to increase the rev limit..
Buggy Brad..
Well..Yes i get the error code for VSS,but seems that all the connections are correct but how you explain that for about a month it was working without problem.
Brad 路
Bugaru03 wrote:Mike..
When i first got it it runs good about a month and then the problem started when i get the error code in the warning light.
I hope todays feedback from the electrician to solve it and proceed in the next step of your drawning maybe.
The most weird here in Greece is that nobody has a 14pin slot & the software ofcourse, in order to get in the ECU through a laptop and make some adjustments..such to increase the rev limit..
Buggy Brad..
Well..Yes i get the error code for VSS,but seems that all the connections are correct but how you explain that for about a month it was working without problem.
If it is OBD1 then you can't adjust the idel with a laptop.
What do Subaru say about it ?
OBD2 can be adjusted.
Why not just change the plug to a stock OBD1 so you can plug it in ?
Bugaru03 路
Brad..
I dont know if it is possible to change(first time i hear this) from 14pin OBD1 to 16pin OBD2 but if it is, do you have any wiring diagram on how it should be done??
Local Subaru dont give a sh...t for this kind of conversions..If your car it isn't Subaru then you have no lucky about it.
ElusiveStranger 路
Bugaru03 wrote:Brad..
I dont know if it is possible to change(first time i hear this) from 14pin OBD1 to 16pin OBD2 but if it is, do you have any wiring diagram on how it should be done??
Local Subaru dont give a sh...t for this kind of conversions..If your car it isn't Subaru then you have no lucky about it.
Ummm, do you still have the Subaru Diagnostic Port (might be called Scan Connector?), mine's black.
This on my MY97 contains the pins for 12V, GND, Tx & Rx for the purposes of ODB-I diagnostics.
Finally during summer & after dyno it's proved that the previous exhaust system was not fare enough for current setup so we re-shedule it from the beggining in order to achive the best performance we can get.This will be not enough if we didnt make a full service in the engine and a new intake system.
In the beggining of September and after a lot of work be done in the car by my self and long time since my last post,finally (after a big and unexpected surprise gift from my lovely wife!!!!)the car painted in this beautiful imperial blue perl color!
So with no ECU errors now and car painted.. next to come is to finish the interior upholestry by the end of the month and soon it will be back to roads again!!!
here is the result until now..
stay tuned..
Rgrds,
Jimmy
ElusiveStranger 路
Sweeeeeeeeeeeet.
Glad you got the problem sorted.
VWCOOL 路
wow that is great!
Bugaru03 路
The result for me is awesome and it's exactly what i have dreamed!!!
Elusivestranger finally the problem with VSS was to simple that my simple mind could't thinking of it.
The wire connects the VSS with the ECU it was plug in plug out and seems that some times it didnt attached well and this has the result of reading the error.So i cut the two wires and re-attached them together without to be possible one of the two wires to be unplugged.
I will upload some fotos soon from the interior job..
Rgrds,
Jimmy
ElusiveStranger 路
Well, myself and Brad told you to check the VSS 馃槈
Knocking out a wire is easily done though. Hope you've either soldered it or used a quality connector now!
Still, you've got it sorted and proved that some years of EJ engines require VSS units to work
Brad 路
Bugaru03 wrote:Brad..
I dont know if it is possible to change(first time i hear this) from 14pin OBD1 to 16pin OBD2 but if it is, do you have any wiring diagram on how it should be done??
Local Subaru dont give a sh...t for this kind of conversions..If your car it isn't Subaru then you have no lucky about it.
Hi,
Nope you can't, well I suppose you can change the plug if you want but doing that will not make the OBD1 and OBD2 as the firware is different so the scanner will not work anyway.
All good now, yeah so that is the main thing.
Cheers,
Brad
Bugaru03 路
some update from the interior trim...
more to come by the and of this week..
Bugaru03 路
more interior..
..
Bugaru03 路
Finally side panels were finished and also attached in the rear 2 nice oval speakers from JBL(and maybe a new source to running them)馃榾馃榾馃榾 .
Next and final finish will be the front seats!
so for now..
Bugaru03 路
update..
Finally we decided to make the bottom of the front seat independent (in three pieces) in order to be more like a bucket style.
Hope until Thursday it will be completed and ready for install the one piece windows kit!
cu
trickysimon 路
Awesome car 馃憤
Brad 路
Mate that is looking great.. hopefully mine will be done one day .. funnily enough it is an L Bug, and I have an Ej22 and picked a very similiar colour before seeing this.
Will be like an Aussie Twin ...
Bugaru03 路
Thanks quys!!!
Brad:I wish you finish your project(maybe posting some pics would be a good start..)and f.y.i the color is came from Ford "imperial blue".馃憤
I' d love to see a twin aussie bro!!!馃槀馃槀馃槀
ElusiveStranger 路
That looks the mutts mate! 馃憤
Bugaru03 路
more update..
I'm pretty excited with the result, the car looks fantastic and i'm curious to hit the roads again!!!!
some pics in random appearance..
Bugaru03 路
Finally his back at home...some adjustments needs to be done and then we will enjoy many many rides!!!
and two photos from his first trip..
gerrelt 路
That looks absolutely great! Beautiful 1303!! 馃樀
pete wood 路
that looks great. 馃憤
Bugaru03 路
Thanks guys!
koolkarmakombi 路
Awesome except you put the steering wheel on the wrong side!
Bugaru03 路
Update...........
after looooong time in hybernation and some engine problems the time has come for me to proceed!
I new i was having an oil leak when i first bought the engine and first run it but this doesnt bother me to join drives and adding oil.....but.....in the truck the mistakes were payed and payed heavily.
After of 15 minutes pushing the bugaru hard in the corners i've heard a noice tickling from inside the engine deck:eek::eek::eek:
I check the oil and found that more than one ltr missing馃檨馃檨
A raf estimation was that one of the set of bearings inside the connecting rod was scratched but the engine must be open first!
I stop over and took the car back to home until i get ready for rebuilding
and here we are..
The problem is concerning the bearing inside the connecting rod and nothing more馃槑, so we choose to change some of the engine component parts and rebuild it such as:
New oil pump
New set of bearings
New gaskets kit
New piston rings and more...
Expected to be ready by the end of the month here are some photos in random
more to come in next days馃榾
pete wood 路
ah well, you'll learn I guess. is the crank ok?
Bugaru03 路
Hey Pete,
The crankshaft and the rest componets were measured by a micrometer and find in excellent condition!!
Next step is to polish & balance them before they fit back to engine.
here is a pic of crank....
Joel 路
arent subaru engines real common in Greece?
here splitting cases is pretty much unheard of
noone rebuilds them as its far cheaper to buy another running engine and they are built at the factory to such close tolerances that rebuilds dont end up as good,
its the reason they run so smooth and last so long
Bugaru03 路
Joel,
It's pretty easy to find in Greece a subaru engine to buy but still it would be a USED engine!!
The cost for rebuilding an engine it depends from what you want to do, just rebuild it... or put a stroker kit with porting and other components.
My first thought is to buy again a used engine with several miles on it but finally decided to rebuild it knowing that it's a good way to know that i will run it again with zero miles and no problems.
Jak Rizzo 路
Joel wrote:here splitting cases is pretty much unheard of
noone rebuilds them as its far cheaper to buy another running engine and they are built at the factory to such close tolerances that rebuilds dont end up as good,
its the reason they run so smooth and last so long
I disagree. I bought my wrx engine for $850 with 140000ks on it, flogged it for 15'000ks, had it rebuilt with new pistons, ACL race bearings, ARP head studs, rebuilt heads etc for $2300 & have now put over 135'000ks on the rebuilt engine.
I agree it would have been far cheaper to buy another $850 wrx engine, but once again it's a lottery of unknown quality. Personally for me, & for what I do with my car i went with the rebuild. U can't beat the price.
regards
Jak
cam070 路
Bugaru, nice car and I love the interior. Well done, hope to see more of it when you get it back on the street. No doubt faster than before!
Joel 路
I can see where its worthwhile in your case Jak,
i just think its alot of effort and $$ for a stock NA ej20/22
true that atleast your getting a rebuilt engine but i havent heard of real many people (exlcuding me 馃檮) that have bought 2nd hand engines that have turned out to be duds
Jak Rizzo 路
Unfortunantly joel I think u are almost a one off with the dud engine, lucky they are cheap & easy to find.
Jak
DylanTheDubber 路
Just realised its an import. Where did you get it from.
Bugaru03 路
..Dylan the engine is imported from Japan from a local dealer..
Today we got back the block & crankshaft from the machine shop and still waiting for the heads.
Block needs to be cleaned and painted and then will be ready for assembly again.
Meanwhile it was a great opportunity for painting the engine bay.
All the "unessecary" sheet metal were trimmed and after sandpaper the hole surface
it was ready for applying the primer and then painting to metallic blue..
before..
after..
Next in order the intake manifold take new shape in colour!!
before..
after..
Wish everyone Merry Christmas!!!
DylanTheDubber 路
Naa Brahh!! Im talking the bug is an import cause it's Left hand Drive. looks great!! From Dylan
Bugaru03 路
Hey Dylan, here in Greece all beetles are left handed!
Update...new OEM subaru oil pump introduced and one final layer of enamel in engine compartment!!
Next week more to come...
cu..
Joel 路
ive just been through the whole engine bay and engine detail thing as well, fun job but you know red paint for the manifold makes it go faster right?
ElusiveStranger 路
Joel wrote:ive just been through the whole engine bay and engine detail thing as well, fun job but you know red paint for the manifold makes it go faster right?
LOL!
Good work on the rebuild my friend. I do think your Bug's ace.
DylanTheDubber 路
Sorry Brahh i did'nt realise that you were in grece.
colonel mustard 路
Brahh??
Bugaru03 路
Ha ha ha!!! My first thought was to paint it red but i wanted something more aggressive so finally decided the anthracite colour!!!
Bugaru03 路
Few hours before end of the year last unexpected thing happened..
An old lady hit me with her car in the bumper but for my good luck my mechanic was there and with my insurance all the legal staff were arranged.
So, new polyester bumper will be introduced plus the painting job.
here are the evidence...
so, its time again for engine update..
The block painted in silver colour and three more thing that need to be painted is the water tube, valve covers and timing belt cover all in anthracite colour.
We will also re-locate the water tube in the back of the intake manifold so to achive better look from in front.
and..
and..
and..
some other good stuff purchased and new piston rings and connecting rod bearings introduced plus new head studs!
The re-assembly has begun and in the few next days I will be ready again to hit the roads!!
more to come from next year............
Wish everybody Happy New Year!!!
JVLRacing 路
Jak Rizzo wrote:
Joel wrote:here splitting cases is pretty much unheard of
noone rebuilds them as its far cheaper to buy another running engine and they are built at the factory to such close tolerances that rebuilds dont end up as good,
its the reason they run so smooth and last so long
I disagree. I bought my wrx engine for $850 with 140000ks on it, flogged it for 15'000ks, had it rebuilt with new pistons, ACL race bearings, ARP head studs, rebuilt heads etc for $2300 & have now put over 135'000ks on the rebuilt engine.
I agree it would have been far cheaper to buy another $850 wrx engine, but once again it's a lottery of unknown quality. Personally for me, & for what I do with my car i went with the rebuild. U can't beat the price.
regards
Jak
Very very true.....and u had a bloke that new wat he was doin馃槑 without chewing ur leg off $$$
DylanTheDubber 路
colonel mustard wrote:Brahh??
Sorry , Just some of my Abborigonal comming out in me.
Bugaru03 路
At last... after 9 months without driving my beetle, finally the first ride take place this saturday in the road but now totally different then before.........rebuilded and painted馃檯
The assembly of the engine is done and after painted is taking place back in to the engine bay and i must say that i am very pleased from the result.
Everything is in the right position as it has to be!!
The first 200km after the rebulid came very smooth and easy, the rev's didnt pass the 3500rpm.I have checked the oil and water level until the first change in 1000km.
GAZ struts in combination with bigger rear torsion bars provide better handling and gives you the feeling that it "reads" very well the road.
After the bumper will be replaced and painted by end of the next week some things may left to be introduced:
I've noticed that this intake solenoid is tapped after the rebuild but before the rebuild was leading somewhere..
Do you know were or maybe someone can provide a diagram for all the NA solenoids?
Thanks & regards,
Jimmy
Joel 路
Hi Jim, thats the hose that connects to the charcoal canister
i have mine blocked off the same way
does your bug have the subaru canister installed?
if not then the connection needs to be blocked off like it is
as long as the solenoid has the wire connected to it the ECU is happy, it doesnt know the hoses and canister arent there
Bugaru03 路
Thx Joel for the explanation!
I was worried about this but indeed i did not have a canister!
Thx again!
colonel mustard 路
Its looking great man! 馃檪
Joel 路
no worries jim,
if the hose was there not connected to anything it would have been affecting the engines running so the mechanic has done the right thing by plugging it off as you have no canister
colonel mustard 路
Hey Joel, now I see why you want a no vent engine lid, looks the goods.
Bugaru03 路
colonel mustard wrote:Its looking great man! 馃檪
Thx man!
Bugaru03 路
Small update...
Finally I have changed the old lamda with a new Japanese one NTK.
The old one has been damaged and the engine was running to rich.
Now the mixture is stabilized in stock conditions and maybe a dyno will show us the new results.
With half of tank I have made approx. 230km and if you consider the very short ratio transaxle and the 2.0lt engine I think it's a very good result for me.
and two photos from my baby!
That's all for now..
Bugaru03 路
Minor updates...
New Avon ZZ3 tyres introduced in 205-45-17 for the front and 205-50-17 for the rear gives you a much better feeling & handling than the old ones :smt023
Also i fabricate a new center console and moved the radio cd on it until i will be ready to trim the dashboard & console
In future plans these instruments will light up my interior and who knows what else.......
Now lets get back to business....
During the past days i have encounter an oil pressure problem and after the fact i've changed the oil pressure sender with new one the problem still persists.
New semisynthetic oil 15w50 and nipon oil filter introduced but the only change is to see higher pressure at cold 6.7bar and at hot idle around 0.9bar.
I have noticed some oil leak from this solenoid (i dont know how this called) and I strapped it.
Through my plans it was to cut my intake "Injen style" manifold and add the air filter as closer as i can to maf sensor.I dont know if this has a better efficiency but i like the result!
[/img]
After the cut and after reset the ECU some times the idle plays from 400rpm to 700rpm and i was wondering if the time has come to clean the idle control valve & MAF but i cant locate the valve!
Also does anyone reverse the oil tube succesfully?
Any info would be appreciated guys!
Rgrds,
Jimmy
Bugaru03 路
anybody??
BlueV2 路
By oil tube, do you mean the oil filler pipe ?
Bugaru03 路
BlueV2 wrote:By oil tube, do you mean the oil filler pipe ?
Exactly!
BlueV2 路
Is it a plastic one ? I just modified mine last week by cutting it on a different angle and then plastic welding it back up using a soldering iron. Was easy to do (a bit smelly), but it welds back nice and strong.
Bugaru03 路
Thanks a lot for the info.
Do you have any picture from the result?
Kind regards,
Jimmy
gerrelt 路
Hi Jimmy, your car and engine looks great!
This is a very nice picture:
Joel 路
Hi Jim, console looks good, just finished making one similar for mine.
With the oil leaking, thats the crank case vent valve
If your getting abit of oil leaking from there you may have high case pressure.
do you have the 2 rocker cover vents and the case vent connected to the air intake like original?
if not thats the problem.
Mine was doing the same bouncy idle thing when hot, cleaning the idle valve fixes it but just sorted itself out with regular use.
Cleanings them is not hard, theres some good links on subaru forums I'll find later.
its the brown box thing on the manifold directly below the PCV hose that you just put the clamp on
With the Oil filler tube, the turbo ones fit alot better or what i did which is rough but works is cut a section out and rejoin it with hose and clamps
I'll get it plastic welded one day or buy a turbo one
BlueV2 路
This is easy to do yourself. You could easily make it look prettier if you wanted to. I just used a 40 watt soldering iron with a flat blade.
Bugaru03 路
Gerrelt, thanks and thanks again man!!
Joel, yes the case & cover vents has been ending to the air intake. But does this means that i have a high case pressure and needs to be reliefed from somewhere?
When i first attached the black hose in to the valve (Elusive explain me that this is not a solenoid but a 1 way valve) it didn鈥檛 fit well and that's why i strapped it. From the moment i did this i have no oil leaks from there.
Will this be a problem? And also i have noticed that this valve can be screw-unscrew, but where is the right position to be?
The idle has been stabilized after three long rides & ECU reset and I assume that at least for the moment it鈥檚 not necessary to clean them.
As for the oil filler (thanks for the advises) I have in mind to trim a bit the tap and see if I can get more space from my rear valance馃槉
Bugaru03 路
Merry Christmas to all!!
In the last few days some minor problems came up.
1.When the engine warm up and during the ride i have instantly three or four stall, it's like that someone to cut the power or the petrol.
This only happens(dont' know if this is by accident) in winter time and i've noticed when the humidity is up.
So first came in my mind to check the fuel pump and i have in idle 2.5 bar and in full rpms 3.5bar with regular flow.
Next i thought the MAF sensor because i dont have a knock sensor.
So i buy a CRC MAF cleaner and with carefull i sprayed the MAF and let it to vaporized (like photo).Then i bolt it back and i think i have gain some power.
Till today i have done 3 rides with no hesitation at all.
Next step( if it aint MAF) is to change the spark plugs or the coil.
Do you suggest anything else that might be checked???
2. I tapped one oil evaporasation leak and change also a handbrake cable because it brokes.
3. I re-assembly the MAF and intake air filter.
4.Change one brake hose line cause it was worn out!!!
New oil 10W-40 castrol magnatec + oil & fuel filter introduced.
5.From next week i will finally make some progress in interior(new dashboard & central console)
more photos from the progress next week.
Bugaru03 路
update..
After raised this thread http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=87474 i have realized that the dimming lights were the source of the problem.
The driving distance is every day the same, home-work-home so back to home in the afternoon i need to open the lights and that cause the stall.
The fuse is overloaded with power and is gets really hot with result of losing power somewhere and instantly cut me off.
So the simplest test was to open the lights during the day and see if the problem comes up.
And guess..... Yes it stalls once more so it has something to do with the dim lights. I'm thinking tol bypass the big scale and send it directly to battery or tol add a relay.馃槀馃槀
Regards,
Jim
itawolf 路
looks very good...very nice
Dim lights--glad u fig that out
Bugaru03 路
itawolf wrote:looks very good...very nice
Dim lights--glad u fig that out
Thanks man! Hope that is the problem and nothing else..
