BEETLE HIGH PERFORMANCE VENTED DISC BRAKES

I have high performance Beetle brake kits for sale.

This kit meets the intent of all Australian states' 'modified vehicle' engineering guidelines for hassle-free engineering/mod plating

VENTED FRONT
From $1320 inc GST

* 287x24mm high quality DBA 'Kangaroo Paw' slotted rotors
* CNC machined hub with M14x1.5 studs
* CNC machined caliper brackets to suit PBR Commodore calipers
* CNC machined stub axle (exchange required)
* Included are all new bearings, seals, high tensile bolts required to install
* Components electro-plated for corrosion resistance
* No increase in wheel track dimension - no guard rubbing
* Formidable stopping power and fade resistance
* Ideal for Subaru transplants where vented brakes 'to donor car specs' are required for engineering/mod plate/legal street registration.

To keep the bucks down, this kit in its basic $1320 form is supplied without callipers so you can source your own choice of second-hand or rebuilt Commodore callipers.

I can supply second-hand calipers for $80pr. I can provide brand new calipers (as pictured) and quality 'street' pads for an extra $400 bringing the total - as pictured - to $1720. As you can see, they look nice painted!

VW and Porsche stud patterns in stock; other stud patterns by request:

Add $100 for Porsche stud pattern. Other stud pattern - $POA

These brakes require a minimum 15-inch aftermarket wheel. These brakes will NOT fit VW steel 'widies'. Bias valve and/or master cylinder upgrade is required. This kit is not intended for cars with rear drum brakes.

Available for immediate shipping for Beetles:
Ball Joint - 'small' and 'large' tie rod styles
L-bugs (2-bolt front end)

3-bolt Super and Type III - available to special order


REARS: from $990 * NOW INCLUDES PADS AND NUTS!! *
I have this light but effective rear disc kit that is a good match for VWs with standard 278mm front discs. It can also be teamed with the big vented front kit.

This kit meets the intent of all Australian states' Codes of Practice for Light Vehicle Modifications.

As with my front kit, I save all the hard work of a 'custom' brakes kit by providing all the machining and hardware required to fit your choice of second-hand or rebuilt callipers and provide cleaned/inspected second-hand 'core' callipers for free.

* 260x10mm DBA solid disc
* Brand new hub machined from quality German-manufactured core
* M14x1.5 studs
* Kombi wheel nuts
* New performance brake pads
* Calliper mount machined to suit VW
* Handbrake lever and cable mount modified to suit VW
* Once again, this is a true BOLT-ON UPGRADE supplied with all new gaskets, spacers and bolts/nuts required
* Slotting optional $160

Extra studs and nuts to convert your standard VW front discs can be supplied for $100.

This kit weighs less than Type 3 drums and fits inside 14-inch wheels.

Inspect, pick up or delivery from Newcastle or Sydney NSW.

Shipping I can mail/ship these brakes anywhere by Australia Post etc. Ask and I will quote for you.

For the full story on the development of these brakes, check out this thread:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=36884&page=11#pid636615

Please note, the thread is a 'diary' of the process of developing and testing these brakes so some information and specifications have changed.

U2U/PM on here
0411 274 155
or qik304@hotmail.com

where a pic of the caliper whats the piston size

So supply and fit plus and certify to my 1500 Beetle is how much ?❓❓❓

vw54 wrote:where a pic of the caliper whats the piston size

Here's a pic of the calliper I used for development, with a size comparison between brake pads. Piston size is 54mm, from memory

Ian & Brian, you will need to contact an engineer for his prices. The best plan of attack is to perform all your mods together (eg: engine, suspension, seats and brakes) when building a car and have the engineer inspect and re-certify the car once

www.streetmachine.com.au
click on 'Find Engineer' in the menu on the left side of the home page

EDIT: There have been a few questions about what DBA's 'Kangaroo Paw' brake rotors are; here's a pic.

Why did you use single piston calipers? (Dont say because they were there, although the smart answer!)

matberry wrote:Why did you use single piston calipers? (Dont say because they were there, although the smart answer!)

Yeah , on the Back ok
but the OE fronts are twin pistons at least

matberry wrote:Why did you use single piston calipers? (Dont say because they were there, although the smart answer!)

The number of pistons used in a calliper is largely immaterial; 'Two' is not automatically better than 'one'. For true high performance, other specifications are more important, such as pad area, long-term durability and parts/pads availability - all of which is no problemo with this caliper. A big single-piston calliper with a large pad will out-brake a small twin-piston calliper all day, everyday

I took a commonsense approach: I chose a readily-available caliper designed and validated for a V8-powered car weighing 1500+ kg and made it fit the VW with half the mass - it works well

Why do all race type of calipers have opposing pistons then?

Read the thread on the development of the 'kit' and it will make sense.

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=36884&page=11#pid636615

I am sure there are more exotic calipers available, but none that can be had for $300 a pair new including pads and provide such an increase in pad area, and meet all local regulations.

ya think so ?

Hi Craig,
I hope you don't mind me dropping in my 2c. I am currently doing a brake upgrade for my turbo54 and after talking to a few circuit racers the general opinion is that beetles are very light and very easy on brakes.
I have gone overkill on my package and have payed for it in excess weight. I have also had wheel offset problems and all for what? To say I have big brakes when Glens setup would of been perfect. You have got to ask yourselves what yu really want from your brakes? Yeah sure you have great brakes but is the rest of your car up to there standard? The opposing piston caliper is great when you have a wide car and can afford to run 17x8 inch rims. Remember you need to get a caliper on each side of your disk. How fat rims cans you squeeze under a factory rear guard? Glen has kept it all to factory track widths and to make it easy to get it engineered and as a bolt on upgrade so you dont have to change wheels when you buy a kit. I think it is a great option for people who want to buy a setup and the fact it is all available here with no import taxes and spare are cheap... how can you go wrong?
T54

Spot on T54, why are people trying to make things so complicated. You dont like this package, go get your own. I would say most want to have a great brake setup that can being driven hard on a daily basis and ease of replacement parts when service is due. Will say it one more time, more than happy with how my "VWCOOL" brake package works. And trust me mine was a prototype for Type 3 aplication and was a damn site dearer than what is being asked now, thats what it comes down to with R&D.$$$ get spent first.

I have a very similar 'kit' on my TIII that I built years ago.... I use the same type of rotor (DBA Supra replacement), custom caliper brackets, OEM Golf hubs (100PCD and very hard to find) and Series IV RX7 4 piston calipers (also very hard to find).... I have these inside 17" rims an they are very sweet.... Craig T knows what I'm on about, he's seen these brakes up close.... This set up cost me close to $700 to build up and I'm very happy with the set-up.... But one thing you all should know.... It took me some months to source the parts, make numerous mock-ups and build it.... It could be turned into a kit like Glen's, but I doubt I could make for the same coin.... The use of Commy calipers is also a very good move (I use Commy IRS rears on the front of my custom 205PCD brakes on my Ragtop)... Parts are cheap, rebuild costs are very low and they can be found anywhere in the country.... Try doing that with Mazda caliper!

Good effort Glen....

Hi guys,
All this talk of big brakes has got my interest.
Just wondering what sort of upgrades you have done to the master cylinder if any?
Cheers,
Mike.

None needed on Glen's kit or mine.... Though Glen does mention the possibility of fitting a bias valve... I have Magna discs on the rear of my car and if anything, its a little under braked on the rear....

Can these breaks be drilled to fit wide 5 wheels? also can you source drop spindles and a dual master cylinder?

Cheers,
John

Oops sorry for this late reply; I was away for all of April and didn't know this here, no I haven't done a 'wide five' kit as most people who want performance (rather than 'style' - IYKWIM) choose a four-stud car (1968-on/Super/L-bug) to modify. Try Vintage VW Supplies in Sydney for a wide-five kit - they have done the hard work

Drop spindles: No, my big brakes are 'built' on standard spindles - BJ, L-Bug or Super 3-bolt - only

does that mean that it wouldnt work with a set of cb dropped spindles? i reckon it probably would, but I m no expert....

also, another one while im at it craig, is there any chance you are working on a similar set up for the rear end?

Golde60 wrote:does that mean that it wouldnt work with a set of cb dropped spindles? i reckon it probably would, but I m no expert....

also, another one while im at it craig, is there any chance you are working on a similar set up for the rear end?

Hey Kim.... Check out Glens signature.... He does rear disc brakes also.... And Im sure his kit could be made to fit drop spindles, but it would mean the manufacture of new caliper brackets.... I know this, cause I have modded mine to fit LP bug drop spindles....

This is Glenn, the spindles need machining and there are only CNC 'programs' for OE VW stuff. Yes the drop spindles may work, but I would need a set for the machinist to measure up/check chassis clearances etc. The different axle centreline may cause the calliper to foul on the steering etc.

I'll take a look! Contact me U2U

Yes I supply rear discs to mate with the vented fronts, the 'biggies' are a slotted 287x15mm with either VW or Porsche stud pattern on a studded hub.

I also supply a smaller rear disc package that is perfect match for standard VW front discs. It is 260x10mm and fits inside 14-inch wheels. VW four-stud only, studded hub

For those who asked, matching rear discs now in stock - pics and prices added. Slotting optional

Glenn,

Hows your production of rears going?

Kafer Lover wrote:Glenn,

Hows your production of rears going?

Ready next week - if Aussie post is good to us, you should have by Easter 🙂

Hey Glenn

can you tell me what is the spacing between the bolts that mount the caliper brackets to the frame?
How much for the bolt pattern to be drilled to 4-100?

see my post in members rides to see if your set up might suit.....

I am not having any luck finding any options over this part of the world, nor in the states

Rears are too big for type 3 fronts???

Golde60 wrote:Hey Glenn

can you tell me what is the spacing between the bolts that mount the caliper brackets to the frame?
How much for the bolt pattern to be drilled to 4-100?

see my post in members rides to see if your set up might suit.....

I am not having any luck finding any options over this part of the world, nor in the states

The caliper's cradle has mounting holes on approx 78mm centres...

Mick058 wrote:Rears are too big for type 3 fronts???

Mick, got your U2U, my smaller rears (I do two sizes; there's picture earlier in this thread) are a perfect upgrade for Beetle/Type 3 fronts (and behind my big vented fronts, too of course) but at this stage I only supply in 4-stud

Hey Glenn

Any chance you can post up some pics of the calipers with the caliper bracket mounted up and maybe a tape measure alongside so that I can see dimensions.
From memory, the centres I need are about 80-90mm.

will check tonight, cant remember exactly.

What are the advantages of slotting?

Added cooling, cleaning and they remove the gasses from between the pads and rotor

any chance of getting those pics up Glenn?

I will check the bolt spacing on the caliper carriers tonight, I promise

VWCOOL wrote:Oops sorry for this late reply; I was away for all of April and didn't know this here, no I haven't done a 'wide five' kit as most people who want performance (rather than 'style' - IYKWIM) choose a four-stud car (1968-on/Super/L-bug) to modify. Try Vintage VW Supplies in Sydney for a wide-five kit - they have done the hard work

Drop spindles: No, my big brakes are 'built' on standard spindles - BJ, L-Bug or Super 3-bolt - only

shame your brakes won't go on a wide 5. they look good. and Vintage VW need to do something about there website. it's terrible. no proper listing of stock or modified parts so who knows what they stock??

what did you machine the hub from? billet ali or some other type of alloy? wouldn't mind getting behind a lathe to have a play for wide 5's cos the CSP and Empi kits are rather expensive.

hey glenn, in in the neighbourhood once again, however my stubs are currently in penrith, hoping to get to yours on tuesday. will call once i have the stubs in my possession 👍

Hiya dude,

I'm just curious about braking efficiency between your 290mm vented discs and CSP's 278mm vented disc for using with the wide 5's.
My question is do you think that a 278mm vented disc could cope with a WRX conversion. As we know the larger the disc then the more braking torque you get so obviously yours will perform better than the CSP kit but do you think the CSP could handle a WRX with decent calipers?
I like the wide 5 steel rims and wish to retain them but with decent, and I mean decent, vented discs under them.
Personally I don't think much of CSP's choice of caliper. From memory they are crap with fairly small square pads compared to other types of floating single pot calipers with much greater pad surface area. Unfortunately, I don't think the hub and rotor can be bought seperately. If they do, fancy helping to develop the CSP kit with a better caliper?
and I'd just like to say that if I had a later model bug I'd so buy your kit 🙂

Simitar,
My brakes are based on Aussie-made components specified for Aussie V8 sedans. Pad area is around double that of standard VW, disc mass is approximately double and features venting so the brakes can deal with (and dissipate) far more braking energy than a standard Beetle.

No plans for a wide five vented kit sorry, as people who are willing to go fast enough to need a vented front brake on a spindly old link pin chassis needs simply don't exist! 🤪

VWCOOL wrote:Simitar,
My brakes are based on Aussie-made components specified for Aussie V8 sedans. Pad area is around double that of standard VW, disc mass is approximately double and features venting so the brakes can deal with (and dissipate) far more braking energy than a standard Beetle.

No plans for a wide five vented kit sorry, as people who are willing to go fast enough to need a vented front brake on a spindly old link pin chassis needs simply don't exist! 🤪

Well said!
T54

VWCOOL wrote:Simitar,
My brakes are based on Aussie-made components specified for Aussie V8 sedans. Pad area is around double that of standard VW, disc mass is approximately double and features venting so the brakes can deal with (and dissipate) far more braking energy than a standard Beetle.

No plans for a wide five vented kit sorry, as people who are willing to go fast enough to need a vented front brake on a spindly old link pin chassis needs simply don't exist! 🤪

ah, so you don't think the link pin spindle assembly can handle the larger braking force? I'm just doing some investigating and I like trying to keep things sorta original but with added performance hence keep the link pin.
Thing is why would CSP and EMPI develop these kits if the link spindle is weak?
if you take the spindle out of the equation do you think vented 278mm rotors can handle WRX power? Thats my main question. I like the 'sleeper' look. looks standard on the outside but is all beefed up underneath and really like the look of wide 5's and chrome caps hence why I'm trying to see if I can have my cake and eat it 🙂

VWCOOL wrote:as people who are willing to go fast enough to need a vented front brake on a spindly old link pin chassis needs simply don't exist! 🤪

pffft 😏.......could have sold me two sets by now

VWCOOL wrote:.... as people who are willing to go fast enough to need a vented front brake on a spindly old link pin chassis needs simply don't exist! 🤪

You are kidding right?... LP beams are loads stronger than BJ beams to start.... That's why they are still the preferred beam and spindle used in Off road buggies across the globe... Or maybe you are referring to the challenges of making a LP equipped car handle?... It's not too tough to do either... If you know the tricks.....

But then again.... Maybe your comment is designed to get a rise out of someone?😘

exactly humpty, on both points........he'll keep😏........

mmmm I was wondering when someone was gonna state the obvious.

Alloy beams..... ie. drag racing, ie. very fast, are only available in linkpin....

They all have thier place.😁

humpty wrote:

VWCOOL wrote:.... as people who are willing to go fast enough to need a vented front brake on a spindly old link pin chassis needs simply don't exist! 🤪

You are kidding right?... LP beams are loads stronger than BJ beams to start.... That's why they are still the preferred beam and spindle used in Off road buggies across the globe... Or maybe you are referring to the challenges of making a LP equipped car handle?... It's not too tough to do either... If you know the tricks.....

But then again.... Maybe your comment is designed to get a rise out of someone?😘

I didn't know this humpty, much obliged. The earlier bugs are new to me so I'm still learning. Would you like me to start a new thread for this topic as I'm very interested and even more so from what you have just told me.

psimitar wrote:

humpty wrote:

VWCOOL wrote:.... as people who are willing to go fast enough to need a vented front brake on a spindly old link pin chassis needs simply don't exist! 🤪

You are kidding right?... LP beams are loads stronger than BJ beams to start.... That's why they are still the preferred beam and spindle used in Off road buggies across the globe... Or maybe you are referring to the challenges of making a LP equipped car handle?... It's not too tough to do either... If you know the tricks.....

But then again.... Maybe your comment is designed to get a rise out of someone?😘

I didn't know this humpty, much obliged. The earlier bugs are new to me so I'm still learning. Would you like me to start a new thread for this topic as I'm very interested and even more so from what you have just told me.

I've had this debate with the Sydney crowd for years.... Back in the early 90's I lived over that way and all the guys wanted to stick BJ pans with IRS rears under their early cars (Bugs and Bus' alike)... And they didn't get why I stuck with the 'standard' set-up... All I can say, to each their own... I, like a lot of dubbers, like to do things differently... Glenn has built some great brake packages here... Mine work very well too... But he's gone the extra yard to make them available to a market sector that he see's as viable...

The rest of you that want 'wide 5' disc brakes can do as I did and make your own, or buy one of the kits on the market... It's that simple.... If someone was to start a handling thread for LP/Swingaxle cars, I'll be there... This thread is to support Glenn's brake packages

humpty wrote:

VWCOOL wrote:.... as people who are willing to go fast enough to need a vented front brake on a spindly old link pin chassis needs simply don't exist! 🤪

You are kidding right?... LP beams are loads stronger than BJ beams to start.... That's why they are still the preferred beam and spindle used in Off road buggies across the globe... Or maybe you are referring to the challenges of making a LP equipped car handle?... It's not too tough to do either... If you know the tricks.....

But then again.... Maybe your comment is designed to get a rise out of someone?😘

Link pins have thier place (and get plenty of respect from me) but a BJ front has stiffer shock towers, wider (therefore tougher) tube and bolt spacings on the chassis head and far fatter forgings for the suspension arms, a stronger hub/spindle and bigger stub for the wheel bearings.

Link pin architecture may be favoured in off-road - that's for its suspension travel, not strength: There is no travel limitation imposed by the balljoints getting to the end of thier 'swing'. Off-road race beams these days are all built from aftermarket gear with bigger/stronger cross sections, longer arms, wider tracks and super-duper metals.

It doesn't take much to flex a spindly standard Beetle link pin front end on good tyres which is why one of the 'tricks' is to run significant neg camber - to compensate for flex. Look at a 'retro' race Beetle front-on cornering shot - the outside front will usually be 'rolling over' or 'tucking under'.

OE Balljoint arms are around double the strength of ink pin items and the beam they work with is stiffer. No flop, no slop, better roadholding and handling 🙂

Cool. I like this discussion. Lots of interesting stuff to learn that I didn't know.
I like when people give there knowledge of things so that others may learn and be able to make more educated decisions instead of being told only one thing and so buying that.
I really appreciate this as all I want is to be able to modify my bug in the best way that my knowledge will let me yet end up with a vehicle that is safe but fun to drive 😎

chasing the size of the piston in the BIG falcon rears... would rather not take mine apart again if someone knows what they are?

2yrs on & theres still customer service 😀 love it


oh glenn whats the shocks on the bug with the pic of the rear brakes?? should of asked on the phone!😂

Hey,
Whats the price on these kits? looking at type 3 front and rear 130 4 VW pattern.
also hand brake cables? kit for type 3 have em?

Cheers,
Vlad.

best bet is to call glenn, hes not on the forum much these days i dont think 🙂

oh, and stock handbrake cables fit the rear kit 👍

STIDUB wrote:best bet is to call glenn, hes not on the forum much these days i dont think 🙂

oh, and stock handbrake cables fit the rear kit 👍

OMG thats awesome 🤪

So is Glenn still doing these?

ring / message him...

I disigned and built my own four wheel disc brake conversion on my 60 beetle, on the front i used a readly available light weight four spot caliper running on 300 MM vented rotors, i machined the billet hubs and all the brackets to suit, on the rear i used a ford caliper also running on a 300 MM vented rotor,these are fully engineered and were tested thoughly by the automotive engineer that i worked with, calculations were done to determine what calipers would give the correct brake bias without the need to have a bias valve or a change of master cylinder, the pedal pressure required to stop the car is minimal with a very progressive feel, if you really push it the fronts will lock just before the rears, people talk about over braking the beetle,if the bias is incorrect this will happen, in my car you can brake very heavly from 160 KLM per hour with out any wheel lock up and wipe the speed of very quickly, you can also brake heavly into corner's with out front wheel lock up and still have good steering, i know a vw person with a early convertable running a 2275 with the standard front and rear drum brake's and his statement to me was that you can lock the wheels with the drums and that disc's were a waste of time, that's the last thing that you need to happen.

I can afford a set by the end of the year. both front and rear for my notch. Just waiting for the drop spindles to be done by Bert3.

thats nearly 800 buks alone 😂 awesome😁

hmm I wonder if PBR still make these calipers? they have em on there website!?

I think the fronts are B843-145-PL and B843-146-PL.

have you spoken to Glenn with these grand plans?..........although he has done some kits for type 3's, they are a special order. the stubs have to be sent in for modifying and you may find this may not work with spindles of dubious quality or drop spindles period.

FYI

Has the modification of the stub axle been engineered and approved

Glenn is doing my type 3 right now. Rears went straight on but fronts didn't fit with lower arm in the way. He is re-engineering bracket mounts right now for them - so the answer is yes he sells for type 3 also.
I would email him as he doesn't cruise AVD much, and possibly at the end of run for brake kits, but hey if you order now you never know.

What I can say though is that this package is unreal!

Has anyone started a tech thread for LP vs BJ?🥷

yes i have to email him then.

this is the spindles I'll be getting.

see the stock on the ground compared to the drop spindles on the car.

I have measured the stock spindles against the same holden calipers and yes there is ample room.

I would doubt they will fit. The lower arm and the tie rod is the problem - these calipers are designed to just get in there. At a very minimum you would have to send your spindles to GT to get re-machined and modified which means cutting some meat out of them.

ok that means the lower arm will clear. The mounting point on these spindle are higher than stock so bottom will clear, tie rods might be a problem?

yeah Glenn does state to send in the spindles which is fine by me.

why is Glenn so hard to get hold of 😂🤪

Got my brakes! awesome bit of kit, now to make a slight improvement to the handbrake mechanism 👍

How much did it cost all up? Front and rear? (if u don't mind me asking)

about 2700

Anybody know if VWcool is still doing these?

To go into what BiX ?

I'll take the other stuff back if you're not gonna use it...

Still prefer the package I am working towards. But just weighing up quicker to get/cheaper(?)/one pcakage vs continuing to collect parts and finish the 944T stuff. still need most of the rear end stuff + get the front sorted. and cheaper wheel and maintanence costs in the long term.

Just thinking about stuff thats all......

BiX wrote:Anybody know if VWcool is still doing these?

Talked to him today he is still doing these brakes.