Keys on 1500

As you would expect, my bug has a fews keys to use it.
Namely, ignition, doors, engine.

Now I know the engine key is not standard, but did they originally have just one key?

the glovebox manual for my 74 Lbug says yes one key for all

every lock in the cars have the code stamped on them somewhere
both my door handle codes match the original key code written in the glovebox manual but my engine lid lock is diffrent but has a genuine vw key

i think a few ppl must have have engine lid locks fitted by the dealers after they bought their cars

easiest thing to do is pull out all the locks, get the code off the ignition barrel and have the others keyed alike by a lock smith, or u can do it urself if u like jigsaw puzzles

u can rekey the ignition barrel but its a shit of a job
i did one and ill never do another

take the door and engine lid handles off the car and to a lock smith to get them to Key A Like

same as the ignition key will cost you 40 or 50 to do the job

its too late...

I've spent more than that on spare uncut keys...

All My keys have their number stamped on them

[same as whats on the locks]

I think engine locks were an accessory

most cars You see had non lockable ones and later models got a black push button...

I've got 4 different keys for My beetle...
make that 5 when i install My lockable glovebox lock..

Lee

the extra keys will make u RATTLE Lee

I was planning to change the door locks and find a engine lock (which uses vw keys) and get them matched to the ignition.
I might even have a go at it myself, if it's not all that difficult.

Does anyone still cut keys based on the code on the locks? Cause my ignition key is a copy of a copy of a copy of ... . It's not all bad though, atleast I can take the key out of the ignition while the car is running. (to open garage doors and etc)

its alright having the code for each lock but trying to find some one who can convert the code to a key profile on a key cutting machine is another thing

just pull the locks n get along to the lock smith

keys ?...whats wrong with a screwdriver...works for me !🙄

Your garage door is locked by an ignition key 😂😂😂

😁

keys ?...whats wrong with a screwdriver...works for me !

That's a good idea, I can ditch all my keys and have a 'master key' ... or screwdriver. 🙅

Yeah I suppose I'll just go to the locksmith, it would probably work out cheaper anyway (ie cost of replacement locks after breaking existing ones, getting new keys cut after breaking keys trying to match them to the locks, and various medical bills incurred during the process 🙄).

Thanks for help everyone, very much appreciated!

they do sell pairs of door handles with the same key in the US..

but a keysmith has got to be cheaper and quicker...

You may need a replacement ignition switch with key
then have the locks keyed to it...

the locksmith should be able to tell You anyway..

cheers

LEE


PS: i have new keys, but the local keycutter won't touch
any keys but his own...
He reckons He cut a car key for some one [key supplied]
and it wrecked his cutting wheel on his key cutter...
a new wheel cost him $105-00
I'm waiting for him to go on holidays.... lol.. Lee

LOL thats the lamest excuse ive ever heard
he just makes more profit selling ppl his own keys


rob easiest thing to do is if ur ignition key is in good cond and not really worn take it and ur 2 door lock barrels to a locksmith and they should be able to key them alike with out to much effort
have u got a locking decklid as well?
the barrels can be a real PITA to get out of them

No i haven't got the proper decklid lock, it's only the cheap aftermarket one with a small black key. I'll search for the lock which uses vw keys and get the locksmith to take the barrel out 😀

being a locksmith the only time i dont like using customer supplied keys is when they are nickel silver very hard and will destroy a cutting wheel and when some are $200.00 plus you can understand why the brass keys are preferred . On codes for barrels not a problem to cut supply the code and i can cut them , some shops might not as there are alot of different blanks for vw's and not everyone does alot of old vw stuff . I keep most as every car i get i like to cut keys to code for them. If you need some let me know or if you want barrels sorted and you can live with out them for a couple of days you could post them out to me .

Thanks for the offer Klaus, I might take you up on it. I have a blank vw aftermarket key I bought from vvd a while back. Do you reckon you can cut that key? It's the Mexican or Brazilian one if that's any help.

Klaus wrote:being a locksmith the only time i dont like using customer supplied keys is when they are nickel silver very hard and will destroy a cutting wheel and when some are $200.00 plus you can understand why the brass keys are preferred . On codes for barrels not a problem to cut supply the code and i can cut them , some shops might not as there are alot of different blanks for vw's and not everyone does alot of old vw stuff . I keep most as every car i get i like to cut keys to code for them. If you need some let me know or if you want barrels sorted and you can live with out them for a couple of days you could post them out to me .

Hi
How you tell if the key is made from nickel silver??

My VW keys [from Volksbahn on ebay] are branded KOLB
with VW on the opposite side..
and i've just had a close look at them..
and the blanks are NOT the same...
AS my KEYS..

I was sure I had the correct blanks...??

I have spare door handles & keys and ignition switch with a key maybe I was looking at them..??

my ignition key is 60K061
ENGINE LOCK is 33M040
Door lock is 30M068
other door lock fur Volkwagen HF35 [NOT GENUINE]

could I send you the locks to be matched with 60K061
ignition key??

Lee

Hi all, I'm resurrecting this old thread!

I bought a door lock and engine lock at the nationals and I was fiddling with the door lock.

I understand how it should work but some pins are too long. Do I need to find some other pins of different sizes?

I swapped the ones I had around, but I still got some which are too long. I was thinking that I could file them down, but that doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
Or have I missed it completely?

Thanks
Rob

If the bits are too long

I would think that would be where a notch would be cut on the key..

I will send Mine to Klaus one day...

cheers

LEE

Yeah that's what I thought. I figure it's a good little project to work on since I can't work on my car where I currently live. 😬

As i am a locksmith i figured id answer some questions ppl had.

Rob53: Doors, Ignition and Glovebox lock (for those fitted at factory) were all keyed alike. i think until '69 lockable engine lid locks were a dealer accessory and 9 times out of 10 keyed differently. they are easily changed to suit your key if they are the same profile (point the end you put in the lock first at your face and compare them, if they look the same from the end you should be right) should cost you roughly $10-20 depending if your rural or in a city. And yes, most locksmiths still do cut keys to original coding, now whether the original coding still works on your worn locks is another bucket of worms

Dub74L: not every lock has the code stamped on them unfortunately, I only WISH they did, would make my life so much easier. alot of the time there are no numbers at all, or a serial number not related to the coding.

pulling all the locks off and rekeying to the ignition is not always the best idea, as most of the time the ignition is the most used and worn, your better off giving checking if the passenger side lock is the same as the ignition, and getting the locksmith to find what we call a midway point between the worn and unworn wafers, and keying it to that.

68Autobug and Dub74L: as far as the bloke not cutting keys but the one's he supplies, theres VERY good reason for that. the new cutting wheels Blitz-101 (fairly standard cutter) uses are tungsten carbide. when used on nickel plated steel or nickel plated silver keys they will destroy cutting wheels, not two weeks ago i had to be taken to the emergency to have 6 teeth off the wheel plucked out of my stomach area, as cutting a customer supplied key sheared all the teeth and sent them flying at me.

i really dont blame him at all 😂



after typing all that out, i just realised that klaus already posted, and that this thread is a month old.

Interesting to know there's a fellow locksmith on the board 🤪

may as well post this ha

rob53 wrote:Hi all, I'm resurrecting this old thread!

I bought a door lock and engine lock at the nationals and I was fiddling with the door lock.

I understand how it should work but some pins are too long. Do I need to find some other pins of different sizes?

I swapped the ones I had around, but I still got some which are too long. I was thinking that I could file them down, but that doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
Or have I missed it completely?

Thanks
Rob

not generally looked at as proper practice by most locksmiths, but if your doing it at home without access to a range of wafers etc. swapping them around and even removing them (although doing this makes it less secure) will do the job. but depends on what wafers you already have etc.

Sioux wrote:Dub74L: not every lock has the code stamped on them unfortunately, I only WISH they did, would make my life so much easier. alot of the time there are no numbers at all, or a serial number not related to the coding.

im just talking about 12volt vws here
and its on everything in them
its stamped into the door and decklid handles, ignition barrel and glovebox lock where fitted
60s T handles were all locking but when push button started in late 67 it was dealer fitted accesorie


rob if theres a few pins sticking out only a small bit when u put the key in just file them down flush if u cant rearrange them to fit flush not ideal but its worked for 1000s of vw owners over the years