Possible to put a EJ22 into a Semi-auto Beetle?

As per topic.

Would it be possible to fit and use without cracking the clutch plate? Anyone attempted doing it?

Would be a hell more hp....

for the internal single clutch plate, i think it would be wise to take into account an upgrade.
I only owned a semi auto, can't eva say i actually did a subi conversion on it though.
I'm just throwin an educated assumption.

I say there wouldn't be any reason why u couldn't fit it though, but i could see the clutch slippin when u drive the ej22 hard.

maybe ask the question or search on the vw auto forum
http://vwar.org/

Cant see why not...you could possibly use the power steering pump for the transmission fluid pump???❓

clever man mike... that would be a good idea to play with.

trying to get the right vacuum signal for correct clutch operation may be tricky...

hmm.... tru it is adjustable though, but 2.2ltr capacity will be moving alot more air than stock 1.5ltr or 1.6ltr, and so the vacuum might still be out of the adjustable range available on the control valve.

Is it possible to buy & plumb what i spose u would call a 'vacuum dampener' into the inlet manifold?

Gosh that would be painful to tune up...

bajachris88 wrote:hmm.... tru it is adjustable though, but 2.2ltr capacity will be moving alot more air than stock 1.5ltr or 1.6ltr, and so the vacuum might still be out of the adjustable range available on the control valve.

Is it possible to buy & plumb what i spose u would call a 'vacuum dampener' into the inlet manifold?

Gosh that would be painful to tune up...

"in line restriction" would cure that problem...

Hi

Vacuum all goes into the tank and vacuum is basically vacuum. I have friend that rallies a semi auto bug and he takes his vacuum signal from one side of his motor only with problems, its a 1916 twin webers etc. Good idea with power steering pump, might have to slow it down a tad.

Steve

I agree, an inline restriction will slow flow, but since it goes to a tank there isn't much flow anyway. So the vacuum pressure will end up the same with or without a restriction in the line. At steady state the pressure in the tank will be the same as the pressure in the manifold.

The vacuum pressure in the manifold/tank only actuates the "clutch" lever anyway....a little bit more "suck" on the system wouldn't degrade performance as you still change the gears (2nd to 3rd ). As for the power steering pump....a change of pulley would allow you to increase or decrease the flow close to what it should be...worth a try I reckon.....

But I thought it was how it transitions from vacuum to zero pressure during take-off that is the problem. If that transition rate changes (due to carbie changes on a vw engine, or a different engine) then the rate of clutch take-up changes and it doesn't take-off smoothly. Changing gears would be no problem.

But dosen't it use the torque converter "take off". Or have I got that mixed up.

Sorry if I seem like a naysayer, but why do you want a SEMI auto? A type 3 or kombi auto would do almost the same and presumably be a bit stronger too. Just an idea.

Baja Wes wrote:But I thought it was how it transitions from vacuum to zero pressure during take-off that is the problem. If that transition rate changes (due to carbie changes on a vw engine, or a different engine) then the rate of clutch take-up changes and it doesn't take-off smoothly. Changing gears would be no problem.

bajawes is right...
the clutch needs to slip on take off, otherwise u get a nasty shudder from launch. I had to adjust it on the control valve for my semi auto baja cause it was engaging too quickly and would give the whole car a kick forward. But only when i was moving the car from rest.

Although its got the torque convertor, it still does kick harshly, cause with a quick clutch engagement, the power in the torque convertor is very quickly applied and launches ya forward.

Hi

My friend with the semi auto rally car uses a 180mm puck clutch. The clutch is only used to change gear, the clutch is activated buy the switch in the gear lever, so when you move off from rest the torque converter is doing the slipping.

Steve

1303Steve wrote:Hi

My friend with the semi auto rally car uses a 180mm puck clutch. The clutch is only used to change gear, the clutch is activated buy the switch in the gear lever, so when you move off from rest the torque converter is doing the slipping.

Steve

Correct.....

pete wood wrote:Sorry if I seem like a naysayer, but why do you want a SEMI auto? A type 3 or kombi auto would do almost the same and presumably be a bit stronger too. Just an idea.

WEIGHT.......well thats one thing to consider anyway...the semi auto will slip right in and you don't have the hassel of drive shaft differences etc to deal with,let alone mounting differences. The fact it is already a semi auto is a a major one..The Kombi auto,although much stronger weighs half a ton...is a lot larger and a manual gearbox with a lazy man clutch would be more interesting....

Ok. I have never owned or even driven a semi-auto, so I'm not too familiar with them. I had just heard that they can be sensitive to changing carbs or cams as it changed the vaccum and the clutch wasn't as smooth afterwards.

The rally car with the puck clutch doesn't seem like a good example, as I doubt that car ever needs to be driven slowly.

Steve, was your comment "I have friend that rallies a semi auto bug and he takes his vacuum signal from one side of his motor only with problems" meant to say "with no problems"?

Hi Wes

He has no problems at all, he has a roadie and a rally car. The roadies a 1776 with a single 40mm Weber, the rally car is a 1916 with dual Webers.

Steve