Aussieveedubbers · Type 3 and Karmann Ghias

Karnamm Clock

https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/69935/karnamm-clock

gellecan ·

Is there anyone out there who knows how to get the clock working or knows who can fix them mine is a 62 Karmann Ghia and got 2nd place for best standard at 2008 nats and i would like my clock to be working😎👍👍

karmann54 ·

You need to be more worried if it DOES work, it doesn't conform to standard. They are notorious for not working. On an old ghia of mine many years ago I got a watchmaker to install a new clock mechanism in, keeping the original hands and face. it just ran off a standard 9V battery.

That was 15+ years ago, but my current '63 ghia clock does not work either. I guess I'll do the same thing when I get it back on the road.

Angus

gellecan ·

how can i tell if it still works❓

VW-VARIANT-L ·

First step would be to connect it to power. If it is the original 62 clock it will be 6v ( have you converted your car to 12 V ??), it is easy to use a standard 6V Dolphin torch battery or one of the small 9V rectangular batteries to the spade terminal and grounding the case. If it makes a single "click" sound the internal solenoid is atleast working. These clocks are "mechanical" and the solenoid retensions the spring every 60-90 seconds.
To check the internals, remove the little bolts which hold the rear white plastic cover casing. One of the most common problems is a blown internal fuse link, which can be resoldered. You can also test the mechanicals by manually activating the solenoid to see if it ticks ( will stop after 60-90 seconds ).
If it is the springs/ gears etc which are dirty or worn I would recommend having it rebuilt by a local watch repairer. I had an old motometer clock done recently, only cost $60 for new bushes, oiling etc. 🙂 Pat.

gellecan ·

Done the 9volt battery trick did not get a tick from it😠👎

1500S ·

Take the back off it and give the mechanism a spray with CRC. I have a Type 3 clock which wasn't working after residing in the workshop for many years. A squirt of CRC and it hasn't missed a beat since puting it back in the car. Worth trying on yours.

DH

ghiaguy ·

VW-VARIANT-L wrote:First step would be to connect it to power. If it is the original 62 clock it will be 6v ( have you converted your car to 12 V ??), it is easy to use a standard 6V Dolphin torch battery or one of the small 9V rectangular batteries to the spade terminal and grounding the case. If it makes a single "click" sound the internal solenoid is atleast working. These clocks are "mechanical" and the solenoid retensions the spring every 60-90 seconds.
To check the internals, remove the little bolts which hold the rear white plastic cover casing. One of the most common problems is a blown internal fuse link, which can be resoldered. You can also test the mechanicals by manually activating the solenoid to see if it ticks ( will stop after 60-90 seconds ).
If it is the springs/ gears etc which are dirty or worn I would recommend having it rebuilt by a local watch repairer. I had an old motometer clock done recently, only cost $60 for new bushes, oiling etc. 🙂 Pat.
This is right. I suspect the change to 12v electrics must instantly blow the fuse link (which is good and easily fixed). If you look carefully you will see the fuse link which may just appaer as two connection points which look like they should have something soldered to them but they dont. You can test the clock by simply connecting those two points with a bit of wire and attaching a 6v source (not 9V) to the main connection and the case. As said above, you will notice that the clock works by the solenoid pushing a cog which re-winds the clock by retensioning the hair spring frequently. Other than that mechanical element, the clock is an old fashioned mechanical clock that requires very occasional maintenance by a watchmaker (don't spray WD40 in there!) and re-adjustment to remain accurate. Getting the clock working is really not that hard. I am not sure about how to use the 12v supply most of now run to work the original clock because I'm not very knowledgable about electrics. I presume a small transformer dropping the voltage from 12 to 6 v would be the idea but we need an electrician to say how this is safely done? I also presume the fuse should be actually replaced with a fuse rather than simply shorting the link but I'm not sure what sort of fuse to use. I doubt whether a 12 v solenoid of the correct dimensions would be available. Hope that helps.

VW-VARIANT-L ·

I would try manually triggering the solenoid to see if the mechanicals work and agree not to use WD40 or similar lubricants to the mechanism. Based on past posts on other forums by watch collectors/ repairers the lubricant and location points needs to be specific, otherwise the excess attracts more dust and friction in the long run and faster wear.
The fuseable link can be replaced by old fashioned fuse wire ( most new fuses are flick switches), ? from electricial supply stores.
An inline resistor to reduce the current can be used ( the circuit is only on for less than a second each minute) but I'm not sure what ohm.

1500S ·

ghiaguy wrote:
VW-VARIANT-L wrote:First step would be to connect it to power. If it is the original 62 clock it will be 6v ( have you converted your car to 12 V ??), it is easy to use a standard 6V Dolphin torch battery or one of the small 9V rectangular batteries to the spade terminal and grounding the case. If it makes a single "click" sound the internal solenoid is atleast working. These clocks are "mechanical" and the solenoid retensions the spring every 60-90 seconds.
To check the internals, remove the little bolts which hold the rear white plastic cover casing. One of the most common problems is a blown internal fuse link, which can be resoldered. You can also test the mechanicals by manually activating the solenoid to see if it ticks ( will stop after 60-90 seconds ).
If it is the springs/ gears etc which are dirty or worn I would recommend having it rebuilt by a local watch repairer. I had an old motometer clock done recently, only cost $60 for new bushes, oiling etc. 🙂 Pat.
This is right. I suspect the change to 12v electrics must instantly blow the fuse link (which is good and easily fixed). If you look carefully you will see the fuse link which may just appaer as two connection points which look like they should have something soldered to them but they dont. You can test the clock by simply connecting those two points with a bit of wire and attaching a 6v source (not 9V) to the main connection and the case. As said above, you will notice that the clock works by the solenoid pushing a cog which re-winds the clock by retensioning the hair spring frequently. Other than that mechanical element, the clock is an old fashioned mechanical clock that requires very occasional maintenance by a watchmaker (don't spray WD40 in there!) and re-adjustment to remain accurate. Getting the clock working is really not that hard. I am not sure about how to use the 12v supply most of now run to work the original clock because I'm not very knowledgable about electrics. I presume a small transformer dropping the voltage from 12 to 6 v would be the idea but we need an electrician to say how this is safely done? I also presume the fuse should be actually replaced with a fuse rather than simply shorting the link but I'm not sure what sort of fuse to use. I doubt whether a 12 v solenoid of the correct dimensions would be available. Hope that helps.
In my "try it and see what happens" there was no mention of WD 40! WD 40 has a lubricant added to the solvent and could cause more woes as we all should know. I suggested CRC but of course didn't elaborate on the variety I used. The one to use to clean/loosen up that 40 year old lubricant which has dried out is CRC circuit board and contact cleaner which DOESN'T contain any lubricant. Once you give it the spray you will soon see if the mechanism comes back to life. You can THEN carefully put a couple of minute drops of very light machine oil on the gears for lubrication.

No doubt this one may have been cooked with the wrong voltage but if the link is still intact, try the cleaning method. That's what the clock repairer will do first off.

DH

gellecan ·

Thank you all for help guys i will try the crc trick over the weekend and let you now how it went

grumble ·

I use a company called Namiiss in Carrington (Newcastle)for all my electrical and speedo repairs,they have a good repair record . The phone No is 4961 2438. If the other guys advice doesn't work give them a call. good luck. My clock was working the last time I ran it but it used to give a little grrrrr every now and then which didn't appear to worry it.

65busser ·

If you're stuck we have a guy here in Melbourne who does our instrument repairs and reco's. He puts a switch on the wire to the clock so you can turn it off when not in use. Saves the mechanism.
Brad

bushed ·

gellecan wrote:how can i tell if it still works❓
watch it..

donn ·

He puts a switch on the wire to the clock so you can turn it off when not in use.
Bloody hell, every time you wanted to tell the time you'd hafta reset it.

65busser ·

He puts a switch on the wire to the clock so you can turn it off when not in use.rnBloody hell, every time you wanted to tell the time you'd hafta reset it.
Yeah if you drove it every day you probably wouldn't need the switch. For those who don't drive their prize winners every day, they can turn the thing on when the car's in use. Preserves a clock not known for longevity. 😉

gellecan ·

would not even think of a on and off switch the clock is meant to go tick tick all the time but not going tick tick yet i will give that phone no a ring thank for the number and all the help the clock works it is all to do with the elec once again thank for all your help

gellecan ·

my clock it goin tick tick tick thank you for all your help guys
thank u very much..