Philbert update "new temp sensor,exhaust in"

Hi all Philbert has had little work done to it since adam helped me get it started, but when it starts it runs for about 6 secs than stops. also it seems like it is giving me a code for the throttle position sensor (3 slow and 1 quick) but the TPS seems to be giving of the right readings.

Been given the time line of 3 weeks to have it running properly for a photo shot so any help would be great

Thanks
Andy

Had a similar problem with the 2.5 after engine install. Turns out to be fuel pump earthing problem.
Just enough fuel to start when key first turned and pump pressures up.

So did you just try and get a better earth? WHat sort of power should you be getting to the fuel pump when the engine is running for the whole 6 secs? Its doing my head in

Andy

Hmmm, thinking again it may not be your prob?
Has this been happening since the conversion? Or has it been running Ok up until now?

I had 2 pumps🤪 and it was the lift pump to the surge pot that was not earthed correctly.
The primary pump which feeds the engine was operating but trying to feed from an empty surge pot.
Does it run roughly?
A squirt of engine starter into the intake when you start it, if the engine continues to rev then its fuel. This is how Tony from Rigoli Performance found my problem, all in about 30 seconds!😊

I also has plug fouling at one stage which dropped cylinders out when trying to idle.

Tried an ECU reset?

sounds like the fuel pump or AFM.

Pull your return line off you tank and run it into a bottle and watch it when it starts up. If your pump is working well then it should keep filling the bottle when it runs.

If is is running for a few seconds and your fuel pump is not the issue then I would be checking your AFM, the fault code for them on the EJ22 is pathetic and more often than not does not thow one. A faulty AFM will give the issues you mention as the ECU will think it is not running when it does its check after starting, no AFM signal tells ECU no air so it needs no fuel and stops.

I'm re mounting the fuel pump at the moment so i will check the fuel pump tommorrow and if thats not the problem then i will check the AFM i did get it for $1 because the one that i got with the wiring loom was different to what the loom has on it, bit weird becuase it is all supposed to be from the same engine.
I think that i read some where that the only difference between the 4 and 3 pin AFM is that it gives out a zero reading? c what happens tommorrow

Andy

There's an AFM her you can try if you want....

That would be great!!! I'll pm you

acn9479 wrote:I'm re mounting the fuel pump at the moment so i will check the fuel pump tommorrow and if thats not the problem then i will check the AFM i did get it for $1 because the one that i got with the wiring loom was different to what the loom has on it, bit weird becuase it is all supposed to be from the same engine.
I think that i read some where that the only difference between the 4 and 3 pin AFM is that it gives out a zero reading? c what happens tommorrow

Andy

hmmm going to have a guess here that you are talking about an O2 Sensor and not an AFM. The O2 sensors have a 3 and a 4 wire the AFM( Air Flow Meter) usually have a large flat gray plug.

The O2 sensor will not be the issue.

yeah my mistake got the AFM and the TPS mixed up. the air flow meter has 5pins and the TPS is 4 🙂
The other AFM that i have is 3 pin.

acn9479 wrote:yeah my mistake got the AFM and the TPS mixed up. the air flow meter has 5pins and the TPS is 4 🙂
The other AFM that i have is 3 pin.

You have a 3 wire AFM on an EJ 22 ???

AFM - Air Flow Meter - bewteen tha air cleaner and the Throttle body, tell the ECU how much air is coiming in so the injectors get the right fuel.
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor - tells the ECU how much air should be coming in.
O2 - Oxygen Sensor - tell the ECU how much fuel is getting out .

I am confussed as to which one you are talking about.

The AFM will be the one that is more than likely stuffed.

Yeah the engine that i got came with a 3 pin AFM, which the same as you i was a bit confused, but i now have a 5 pin.
The TPS is 4 pin and the o2 sensor is well just an o2 sensor. I really should read through my posts a bit better before i post them (and not do it while I'm watching hackett swim his 1500m 🙂)

Checked the fuel pump today after remounting it and it is pumping out fuel via the fuel overflow, so it would seem that the pump is good and getting a good signal.
MickH said that he had an AFM that i could try so i might take him up on his kind offer tommorrow.
ANdrew

I'll be home...gimmee a ring!!

well after MickH was good enough to let me borrow half an engine!! to check to make sure that it wasnt my components, I thought that i better plumb in the Idle air control valve (IACV) and blank up one line into the manifold and guess what the bloody thing runs properly!! even with my stuff hooked in.
So now i have to figure out how the COR throttle cable thing fits!!
thanks for all the help
andrew

No worries...happy to help! Now get it on the road......😀😎

hehe so you had air lines down wind of your AFM open to atmosphere ??

No wonder the poor thing didn't want to run, happy to see hear you got it working .

Hey Andrew if you need a hand this weekend coming give me a call, Ill PM my mobile number as we have the other house on the market for sale. Currently without internet and landline access at new place. Good to hear its running again.

Hey Andrew,

Great News on the engine running.
I need to do that to my engine too could you post a picture of your plumbing on the IACV?

Cheers,

Richard

Hey Richard, you dont want to see what i've done for the moment 🙂 but i here is a picture of hellbus's one that i am going to try and copy. I'll probably have mine stainless cause i can get hold of it pretty easy and I cant weld plastic. Not sure if you can buy these but if you can i think that i would get one.

Andrew

acn9479 wrote:Hey Richard, you dont want to see what i've done for the moment 🙂 but i here is a picture of hellbus's one that i am going to try and copy. I'll probably have mine stainless cause i can get hold of it pretty easy and I cant weld plastic. Not sure if you can buy these but if you can i think that i would get one.

Andrew

Custom Vee Dub sell one very much like that. I will get a pic next time I am in there.

i think that with there price revisions i wont be able to afford one from there,but it would be interesting to see how much they are

acn9479 wrote:i think that with there price revisions i wont be able to afford one from there,but it would be interesting to see how much they are

hmmm I think that you will find that those price revisions where my stuff up and not their prices. I uploaded some newer software and killed the site. When I rebuilt it the default was USD and prices where AUD and the preset rate was like $1.25 AUD to $1 USD and then it added TAX on top. Funnily enough I got a call from Eileen asking me why they had all gone up and who had told me to do that... oops my bad. All fixed now, back to what they have been for the last few years.

Thought that i would wait to update till i got the raditor, well got the rad with thermo, its rated to 1900cfm so it should pull enough air through it.
Header tank is finished and it sure holds a fair bit of water.
Made up the throttle body spacer, just big enough to do the job.
I'll finish painting the rad frame tommorow and mount everthing and hopeflly be able to drive the car onto the car trailer!!! getting a little bit sick of pushing it everywhere

so now to get the engine mount finished (mach 2) and the exhaust

Hey Andy...that looks very much like the one i made heheh...you're nearly there👍



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Hi i was wondering if anyone had a problem with their gearbox locking up, i went into reverse and tried to go into 1st and nothing just a jammed gear lever. Any way to get it unjammed easy. or should i just cut away the 1600 box andtry and get a 1800/2L box?
Any peoples experience would help??

Thanks
Andy

Andy what time do you finish work? I could come and have a look this arvo or tomorrow. If you like give me a call on my mobile.

acn9479 wrote:Hi i was wondering if anyone had a problem with their gearbox locking up, i went into reverse and tried to go into 1st and nothing just a jammed gear lever. Any way to get it unjammed easy. or should i just cut away the 1600 box andtry and get a 1800/2L box?
Any peoples experience would help??

Thanks
Andy

sounds like a dumb qu, but is there any oil in it?

long term, unless you want 1600 ratios for a Baja bus, I'd go a 2l.

Yeah there is oil in it, not dumb at all been a little bit absent minded lately and i even double checked. At the mo it seems like the consensus is the shift forks could be the problem so out with the box and engine again and see what happens.

sorry mate, that sux 🙁

Quick update, did have pictures but the camera packed it in. Have a new box,5 rib and managed to get it in yesterday, I can actually get gears now!!
Engine crossmember is finished and the guys at worked even did some nice art work on it 🙂 i will get some pictures and show you all.

My question to you all is that if the engine is idling a little high what could it be? I think that i have all the line hooked up but I think that i might have missed something is there anything else that i could try?

thanks
Andrew

managed to find some pictures so here they are. The engine mount is now painted and the engine bay has had some conduit put through it to tidy up the wiring. That header tank that i made up holds about 6 ltrs buy itself!! so dropping the coolant is a big job.

If it is idling high then check for any air leaks.

Also is it idling high after it has been running for a while ? They will idle up when cold.

Also check the ICV to make sure it is clean and functioning properly

how do you tell if the ICV is working properlly,dont have the service man in front of me?

Download teh svce manual and it will walk you through it along with voltage and resistance readings. There are links to it in Wes's posts in theENg Conversion Section

Got new temp sensor cause the other one the readings (ohms) were right out, but still cant get the thermo fan to kick in and also get fault codes for the the IACV and purge solenoid?? its runs and drives and feels alright but I'm not sure about the codes. A new IACV is $860 :0
If anyone can help that would be good, i might go and take some photos of the exhaust that i did up yesterday

here are some pictures of the exhaust and the crossmember that some of the guys at work thought they would help me paint when i wasnt looking. Also I dont know how i did it but i managed to get the subaru engine to sound like a vw one!! not sure how? but goes real well and get the 16" mags tommorrow

here are the last couple of pictures

the exhaust looks good ,just make sure that when you jack the car up to take the wheel off that the drive shaft dont rest on the exhaust pipe.???

when i did the fitting i had the vehicle jacked up for that reason, it has about 35mm clearance when at full extension, i think that the flowers really set it off

yer it must be the flowers making the muffler look closer then it is😂

acn9479 wrote:when i did the fitting i had the vehicle jacked up for that reason, it has about 35mm clearance when at full extension, i think that the flowers really set it off

are you trying make yourslef believe it's environmentally friendly too? 😂

yeah powered by love and all things hippy!!

acn9479 wrote:yeah powered by love...

well it looks to me like to much bouncing and "love" might cause the current sump to hit the ground. 😂

Hi all after some little hicups along the way finally got Philbert on the road!!! Still need to do some work (lost the headlights on the way home) and the thermo fan still isnt kicking in but at least its on the road now.

here are some pictures cause I'm showing them of to everyone

Could you post some pics of your radiator installation, hose routing, etc. Yours looks pretty much like I want to do on my '71.