in a few months i want to get my bug going fast...or just quicker than standard. this car will not be a daily...just a weekender...so i was looking at the options...tell me your opinion and give reasons for which one...
I have the time, the know how and the money for all of these.
thestu ·
p.s. personally i want an ej in the thing.. but i wanted to see other thoughts and opinions!
trickysimon ·
Don't think your allowed ej25t in a beetle. My vote is ej20t 😉
thestu ·
hahah what do you mean i'm not allowed...thats silllly!
trickysimon ·
Don't think you can get it engineered, too big.
pod ·
rules and regs wont let you👎not enough weight in the beetle
thestu ·
hmmm damn ittt! so an ej20t would be ok??
thestu ·
hmm well i have been doing qute a bit of research tonight and maybe a turbo 1835 would be a goer?? a lot less work and would still run the pants of most stuff 🙂
trickysimon ·
Alot of people frown apon the use of 92mm cylinders as they are thin walled. Better off going 1776 or 1915.
Mick058 ·
what does Jak have in his? ej20 or ej25 with turbo?
trickysimon ·
Ej20t. Good for at least 200hp atw 👍
vwsteve ·
put a big type 4 in it, turbo on top maybe
Joel ·
forget the 1835 useless as tits on a bull
just go 1916 for same $$ but better quality parts and a longer living engine
i personally wont go over 90.5 bore with a force fed engine due to the case spigots cutting into the case savers with 94s but thats just me others have done it fine with no probs but on a high boost engines may have dramas down the track
thestu ·
hmmm ok then i found a big arse motor and i don';t see how i could go wrong with price and i have all the parts and a new case to rebuild it...
its a 2332 with a 84mm crank 044 heads and twin 44IDAs
what you guys think? i know it has a big bore so less barrel wall but...it would be an insane amount of fun for $2500 :O (i know the guy thats why)
thestu ·
Joel wrote:forget the 1835 useless as tits on a bull
just go 1916 for same $$ but better quality parts and a longer living engine
i personally wont go over 90.5 bore with a force fed engine due to the case spigots cutting into the case savers with 94s but thats just me others have done it fine with no probs but on a high boost engines may have dramas down the track
whats does a 1916 long block go fo these days??
and would i need to decompress it to turbo it??
barls ·
rexy wrote:put a big type 4 in it, turbo on top maybe
second this
Joel ·
thestu wrote:
Joel wrote:forget the 1835 useless as tits on a bull
just go 1916 for same $$ but better quality parts and a longer living engine
i personally wont go over 90.5 bore with a force fed engine due to the case spigots cutting into the case savers with 94s but thats just me others have done it fine with no probs but on a high boost engines may have dramas down the track
whats does a 1916 long block go fo these days??
and would i need to decompress it to turbo it??
$$ depends on specs but a base product 1916 longblock wouldnt leave u much change outta 4-5k also dependant on who knocks it toghether
depending on the boost u wanna run u ideally wanna be under 8.0
its a bit of a trade off the lower the CR the more boost u can run but will be a slug when off boost
setup like this is great fun cos they really hammer when they start boosting
more CR will be more drivable off boost but u wont be able to run as much boost
not as much fun tho
ive been happy with 7.8 and 10psi could take more easily with intercooling or water injection
type4 engines are a brilliant bulletproof engine but they come with downsides
the hotgear isnt as common and is way more $$ than type1
unless u plan on racking up high KMs then a type4 wont really pay off as u can build a type1 with more power for less with more goodies
thestu ·
a type 4 motor just needs to be changed to upright and it will go straight in is that right?
what the comp ratio on a stock 2lt? or a 1.8?
barls ·
just changed to upright unless you want to do some serious body cutting.
but other than that its pretty much straight in depending on the year your trying to fit it to.
here is mine
thestu ·
will a porsche fan onto a type 4 motor?
i have one i can get my hands on 😀
barls ·
yeah you can but without serious work on the shroud they dont work that well cooling the engine.
thestu ·
your setup is nice.. go quick?
running an external oil cooler?
barls ·
no external cooler needed.
it will cruise all day at 110km/h not worrying about hills. i built it this way to be just a good, strong and reliable motor with good fuel economy. here is one of boys here in sydney in a 2.7L
thestu ·
thats niceeeeee 😀 so you think 5 k would be enough for a setup like this?
barls ·
that depends on a few things. are you doing all your own work?
i did mine and the rebuild alone on my stock motor is around 4K normally.
a set of webers on mine and it would go like the clappers. if your serious about this try ringing richard at vforce. its his boys in that link i posted.
thestu ·
cheers mate 🙂
i'm really tosing up between something like this and the 2332... been looking at vids of both turbo and non turbo differnt setups and all...i;m still on my p's until i'm 22 so technically i can't have a turbo... but if i do it well it would be hidden (well fairly) but the 2332 would be a straight arvo swap and only 2.5k and its done...
barls ·
well technically if your on your p's you can't drive more than an 1800. as anything bigger requires an engineers certificate which is not allowed on your p's.
if you want my opinion save your money till off your p's then go for it.
t4 is the way. i get better fuel economy with this than the stock 1600 i had.
thestu ·
if i put it down to technicalities i can't modify my car that has anything to do with the motor for my p's...no one can possible tell unless they rip the motor apart and measure everything...and that will not happen. so i can just say its an 1800 with twin webbers and a zorst..
basically i want something quickish to go to calder in for now then turbo it when i'm off my p's that way i can spend a while building the motor up to get it right then just stuff it in the car one weekend and just sell the 2332...that way i don't loose out and have fun in the mean time! 😀 catch my drift?
hellbugged ·
😂 i voted Subaru!............
but think you should do everything else on the car to make it steer and stop first..........by then you will probably be old enough to have the engine of your choice
get a tough 1776, they're fun🙄
vwsteve ·
i ran both an 1800 and a 2000 type 4 in my ragtop, the 1800 was heaps faster, extremely reliable and powerful, bit of a pain to put in and out but hey, no turning back for me, future plans for mine is somewhere around 2.4, ive already got a pair of 44 delortos ready but yeah cost of type 4 is expensive!
thestu ·
rexy wrote:i ran both an 1800 and a 2000 type 4 in my ragtop, the 1800 was heaps faster, extremely reliable and powerful, bit of a pain to put in and out but hey, no turning back for me, future plans for mine is somewhere around 2.4, ive already got a pair of 44 delortos ready but yeah cost of type 4 is expensive!
NICEEEEE!
yeh i will definitely have to have a play with a type 4 one day 🙂
Joel ·
the only thing 2L has over the 1800 is 200cc's
2L engines had tiny valves and sweet FA compression compared to 1800s
it was only about 6.8 or so
well from the factory anyway
1800 heads on a 2L works real nice and a 1700 cam to from memory
leave the porsche fans for the porsches they dont work real well on vws
my ex had one on a 2L superbug and it was forever making me yell and kick the shit out of it
Jakes DTM are a nice unit
as has already been said fix the brakes and suspension properly b4 even thinking of making it fast
Davey Bettle ·
Hey guys im new to the world of Beetles and new to australia also just bought a 1970 bettle and need to do quite a bit of work on it, one of them is some engine work so what sort of price and performance do you get outa these engines your looking at??
Also im trying to put some pics of my Beetle on any ideas why I cant???