Have been slowly working towards this for quite a few years now and the real work now begins. Just before the beetle left the road it was a 66 beetle with K&L swinger pan. Then I scored a 69 semi auto (converted to manual) BJ IRS pan. Couple of years on and a good '54 oval body came along with no rust and very straight.
Pictures below of body and pan with pan halves stripped off ready for the build.
vassy66T1 ·
The combination will be built to run in improved production 1601-2000cc.
Engine specs are still a little up in the air.
Dave Butler has built the gearbox for me (thanks Dave) and runs a quaife lsd (4.125 final with 1.09 for 4th =7000@105mph; 1.44 for third =7000@79.7mph; 2.0588 for second=55.6mph@7000; 3.80 for first=30,2mph) late model side cover, 002 mainshaft.
vassy66T1 ·
Bits and pieces collected over the years now to be put to use.
Brand new 45 dellortos, empi GTV steering wheel, riviera wheels.
Have a Kafer 5 bar kit to be installed (ala Craig Torrens) and Westi special SS merged headers.
The shocks are AVO and on car adjustable.
It is great to be able to get it all under way.
Hope to finish chassis by May and see the track before the end of the year. Time will tell.
vassy66T1 ·
The shocks ... and maybe what it might look like 🙅
matberry ·
Well now the fun begins...
Great to see Marcus, time to get dirty. Now some direction so its easy to move foward.
Did that contact come through with the estimates for the engine goodies?
vassy66T1 ·
No Matt. No supplier response ..🥲
I will try one more time and then just be really disappointed.
I had hoped for good things considering the connections.
BTW my thoughts are around a 74mm crank de-stroked to 73.5mm with 94mm pistons. Gives me just under 2040cc which to my read is okay for the 2l class, I will check before we build the engine though. 😎
matberry ·
Yeah mate dont be too disappointed, sh1t happens.
Sounds the go re engine combo, but with your stage 1 heads I'd also think about 78 x 90.5 = 2007.
555bug ·
nice, sounds like my life also 🙂 it will be good to see it progress.
Stephen
thestu ·
nice! can't wait to see it all done 😀
Turbo54 ·
Cool, looking forward to another hot 54 getting around.
Cant wait to see it evolve.
Turbo54
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
What about running a Type 4 with 95 mm P & B?? 1800 heads with some nice comp and a solid reliable engine. DTM style fan shroud.
I know everyone will say Type 1 is cheaper but this combo is not stressed in any way and will last forever.
Food for thought Marcus......
pete wood ·
EJ20T 🤘
matberry ·
pete wood wrote:EJ20T 🤘
🤪🤪🤪
vassy66T1 ·
It's NA and type 1 for this little chicken ...
Thanks for the thought Brendan.
How much heavier is the type 4 engine?
That has always been a factor in my thinking as well as the price of type 4 parts. The stonking type 4 will be the one built for my lovely wife's 72 microbus.
vassy66T1 ·
Did some more work today. Took the best part of the day to clean the rest of the crap of the tunnel and framehead.
Fun to get it all clean as a whistle though and start with fresh paint on bare metal 👍
Am in the middle of considerations for rollcage and road registered or not. Can someone tell me (with authority ... i.e. you actually know) if you need a road registered car to do targa style rallies?
It will affect how I go about things.
Anyway some pics.
vassy66T1 ·
one more pic of a little paint on it!
vassy66T1 ·
A little more progress.
Took the rear suspension apart, took out the fuel line for upgrade (1/2" SS to come), the pan halves were tacked back on after removing the seat rails, front end finished being cleaned and stripped and a fresh coat of paint.
Will now be able to start reassembly on the front end.
Have to stitch weld the opposite side of the pan and then some Sikaflex to finish it all nicely on the join.
Have camber adjusters for the rear and will be interested to see how this functions ... seems like pfm 🤓
hellbugged ·
vassy66T1 wrote:A little more progress............
........ pan and then some Sikaflex to finish it all nicely on the join.
Hi.
use sikaflex only on sealed metal !!!!!!!!!! it will rust otherwise.............the wurth equivelent will not cause rust. yeah, seriously😎
add a support tab to the middle of the clutch tube whilst your at this stage
i still think using an oval body for a race car is wrong, i can keep you in constant supply of 60's in exchange for that unmolesterd oval right there
mactaylor ·
looken good vassy have you got some photos of the rear camber adjusters?
vassy66T1 ·
Hey Daimo
No you can't have it 🙅
I am not going at it with a grinder and will be working hard to keep it as unmolested as possible. There won't be any holesaw work on mine. Thanks for the tip on the Sikaflex. Where do I find the Wurth gear? Sandable and paintable I assume?
A middle support for the clutch tube is necessary after strengthening front and back?
Mactaylor I will post some photos tonight. They are the units that Unwin (hellbug) had made up some time ago.
hellbugged ·
yeah, your onto me hey!
I know the hellbug adjusters, do they just make the 'toe in/out" easily and acurately adjusted but?..........
i'd do the middle of the tube as well,once we got "in there" the amount of flex was quite noticeable and it made a hell of a difference to mine .........with a 4inch holesaw make hole 6 inches behind handbrake pivot pin on passengers side, a little under the half height towards the floor....then welded a piece of 1" X 1" angle to the floor and pry the tube down to it before welding it carefully to the bracket.......easily done whilst at the stage your at now
Hey Daimo
Am interested in the "but?..." and ...
I will do the clutch tube then as you suggested.
mactaylor
Here are a couple of photos of the adjusters.
hellbugged ·
"but" not camber?........i'll ask Jeff tonite..........have you got the spring plate that goes with them as well or is that on the "to do" list
keep it coming, i'm getting keen to do one for myself too........🥷
vassy66T1 ·
The only spring plate I have is the one below.
Let me know if there are other 'bits' I need.
cheers
hellbugged ·
okay, the only ones modified for the adjusters i have seen floating around are "single plate" spring plates.......not the duals you have there.........i'll find out more for you.
Craig Torrens ·
hellbugged wrote:"but" not camber?........i'll ask Jeff tonite....
Yes they do Camber as well.
matberry ·
I expect that single spring plate are required we just need to ask onion 'exactly' where to drill the 30 mm hole.
Turbo54 ·
I am not going at it with a grinder and will be working hard to keep it as unmolested as possible. There won't be any holesaw work on mine.
Bet you there will.
I have pretty much done the same and said the same. That is why i swapped my Jan 54 for a later 54. You will end up cutting big holes in the rear end to tune carbies and weld tabs all over it to brace the rear and front. It cant be helped my friend. I love the fact your doing it to a 54. IMO they are the best body out there. That why I have a few of them. Keep it up, I love it 😉 T54
vassy66T1 ·
Thanks for the encouragement.
You are right, I am making large access panels for carb tuning and manifold and spark plug access and maybe a removable 'beaver' panel. We will see what can be managed in other areas.
I love my '54 and do want external appearance to be 'stock' ... well as stock as an oval sitting 100mm from the ground with a fully merged exhaust and track tyres anyhow 🙄
mactaylor ·
thanks for putting the photo's up vassy still cant picture where these adjusters go anyone got a pic of them installed?
hellbugged ·
mactaylor wrote:thanks for putting the photo's up vassy still cant picture where these adjusters go anyone got a pic of them installed?
working on pics for you.......
goes in the front bolt hole of the three that hold the trailing arm to spring plate (from the inside) and spring plate drilled to fit the lip of that adjuster ........two rear holes of spring plate are enlarged to make range of adjustment bigger
marcus, you don't want to go too low for hillclimbing!!
mactaylor ·
must put the inner trailing arm bush into a fair bit of bind has anyone seen an adjuster that replaces the inner bush? and thanx daimo but what are you doing up at this hour?
hellbugged ·
work😢
not really, as it doesn't take much neg camber on the back to be goooooood........2' would be heaps
some talk of adjustable inner bush on shoptalk forums
vassy66T1 ·
The inner bush certainly makes sense but would be more of an engineering challenge.
I won't go too low Daimo, just keep the centre of gravity as low as possible while keeping good suspension travel. Hoping for compliant suspension .
Like all of us I am interested to see how this works and the subsequent effect on toe in/out etc and how all that will be managed. A learning experience for sure. 🤓
Sides ·
AWESOME that you're getting stuck in Marcus, and love the look of those AVO's !!!
On the engine size thing... current CAMS manual says 2% (I checked cos was sure it used to be 1%) so you should be good with 2040.
Those camber adjuster thingy's look interesting... don't suppose anyone knows of a pair available anywhere ???
matberry ·
I supplied Marcus, maybe could get you some Dave, dont know if Marcus wants you to have em but......PM me if you want
vassy66T1 ·
All is open and fair ... no snake oil or smoke and mirrors 😂
Dave S. do you know who I can speak with to confirm the 2% allowance as someone raised the fact that since the pistons and barrels are aftermarket the reconditioning 2% allowance might not apply? I am keen to know as bigger is better.
Sides ·
Heh heh - yeah - gotta be careful hey, what with our sheep stations on the line and all !!!
😉
Seems to be pretty hard to get that stuff confirmed - just comes down to the Chief Scruit on the day I think. Someone would have to protest you anyway for them to even care. Generally doesn't happen real often, but there was a case last year of an Escort that had been running in over 2000cc and someone got dirty - he got tech-inspected and then disallowed from the class since his engine was 1999cc. Bloody stupid I reckon, but there ya go.
16.2 Capacity tolerance: Vehicle classification is based on the nominal capacity stated by the entrant on the entry form. A vehicle will remain eligible for the nominated class provided the actual capacity does not exceed the class capacity limit by more than 2%.
There's a hillclimb at Mt Cotton this Sunday... I'll ask Col who's the Chief Scruit there and ask, but probably won't get a definite answer.
vassy66T1 ·
I'll see you there on Sunday Dave.
Coming along with a few mates for a look see
One 2039cc beetle engine coming up 😘
vassy66T1 ·
So much for the 2039cc 🙅
Spoke to the chief scrutineer at the Hillclimb today.
I don't know what they think the 2% relates to but the scrutineer said there was no way you can go 1cc pass 2l and stay in that class. So I guess at least that is the answer from the people that matter.
Interestingly I noticed on the program that the time for the 2001 to 3000cc IMP class record is a second slower that the 1601 to 2000cc class. Go figure.
Mind you I think it was Mischok in his escort setting the time for the latter.
Next weekend is an all weekend working bee on the beetle with the wives away for a 'girls' weekend. Should see some good progress
vassy66T1 ·
The weekend working bee is over and we didn't get as much completed as we hoped (as usual).
Anyway, at least the pan is covered in paint for the moment. No clear yet as we will wait until we have the cage in and all the other stuff that will go on, do touch ups and then clear it all.
Just need to grab a few parts to get the suspension and brakes together and we can put it back on its wheels.
vassy66T1 ·
Some more pics.
I think everything should be hung from the roof. 🤓
vassy66T1 ·
I'll be needing those details on the rear camber adjusters about now so anyone (Matt, Daimo, Craig.T ??)
Looking forward to the suspension going together now.
I also need to get some detail on making a regular sway bar adjustable by using an adjustable block system. (I know it can be done)
Craig Torrens ·
I can sell you the spring plates with the adjusters if that helps !
vassy66T1 ·
Send me an e-mail Craig and I may do that.
hellbugged ·
if it doesn't work out with Craig, happy to send a set for you to work off.......why not just use adjustable sway bars to begin with?
vassy66T1 ·
Thanks daimo.
I will come back to you on the spring plates.
I already have a 17mm front bar that is currently non adjustable and don't really want the expense of going for the whiteline adjustable bars. It is also my opinion that the whiteline rear bar is probably larger than what I will start out with. My rear bar will be a little smaller than my front and we will work on it from there.
I know there will be a vast array of opinions on this one. Part of my thinking also relates to using the car at higher speed circuit tracks (i.e. higher speed than the hillclimb) and not wanting a car that is too oversteer happy.
Ideally I will end up with more than one sway bar and have this for adjustment also. If I prove to be wrong I will beef up the bar/s.
vassy66T1 ·
Some little bits arrived in the post.
Not much but at least another step or two forward ...
Picked up the single spring plates so am ready for the adjuster locating. PM sent to you Mr Pell (Daimo) with request for some bits and pieces.
vassy66T1 ·
Got to the shed today and got some front end assembly done.
Thanks to Pete Page for a couple of those niggling parts that had gone missing.
It is great to see it back on two wheels at least.
Front end is neat and will be the business for what we need.
I have gone back and forth but am now settled on using the five bar (kafer style) in the rear end and just running the cage to the forks. Have decided against using the cage to pick up the rear shocks.
Just got to get the rear brakes (type 3 drums) sorted out and we're moving along 🤓
Need to do the welding for the five bar also. Just sat it on for a look see ... front bars weren't in the correct spot in the photo. ...🤪
matberry ·
Looks real nice Marcus, might want to throw some paint on those disc rotors, everywhere except where the dscc pads work, I hate rusty brake rotors, so many shops dont bother to paint new rotors....😉
matberry ·
Oh that silver looks the part, wow its bright, dont forget the sunnies in this racer, hey
vassy66T1 ·
Cheers Matt.
I think the inside will tame down a little by the time the cage, seat and other bits go in (hope so anyhow)
I'll get some paint on those rotors.
hellbugged ·
ummmm, why are the adjusters up side down in that front end???
matberry ·
Daimo you are good and oh so fast. Wonder who fitted them????
hellbugged ·
it ain't gonna work like that........ouch...........the bolts into the "die" that hold the torsion stack are going to run away from the adjusters grub screw as soon as the car goes on the ground........... sorry Marcus, unless you know something we dont? (i hope so)
best fix at that stage would be to cut off the grub screw brackets and weld on some avis adjusters
matberry ·
Or remove and refit the adjuster frame, doable, die grind the weld off and reuse, I think the selectodrop style are easier to adjust.
hellbugged ·
be bloody low tho Matt, especially with those drop spindles, unless soome work with die grinder to bring adjustment range up, then weld in the hole that would be left under the adjuster frame..........doable😉
how do you see the postion compared to the hillbillys' Matty?
oh excuse me marcus, looking good despite❗..
......add a "quicksteer" while your at this stage, aint nothing worse than twisting the wheel through close to two rotations to "catch it", when you can have it down to one turn from lock to lock.............well after you've experienced the difference anyways
matberry ·
The slot is not in the correct location, it's about 90* too low. The bj adjusters have the two grub screws. If you use the other ones, may even need to end for end the torsions, it may work, but access to the adjuster screw may not work. Possibly a hex bolt instead, depending exactly where the bracket gets located.....probably better to just cut it all out and refit the adjusters correctly. The stock reference is lost but can work around that ok.
vassy66T1 ·
I am glad I went to bed before I read this or it would have been a crappy nights sleep. My DH (ex-mate) 😬 from Toowoomba fitted the adjusters, and assured me he new what he was doing. I am interested to try and understand now if there is a solution. Tell me more about the quick steer Daimo.
Trev will be p#$@&ed !!!
Dak-A-Tak ·
Yep! thats wrong , mate bring it over , cut out and flip over . Yes a bit messy but not that hard to do .
Grinder mans best friend !
vassy66T1 ·
Thanks Pete
The legacy of PC lives on (my ex-mates initials)!!!
You would think after all the s%$t that he managed to do I would have paid some attention to the work he had done?? 🤓 My bad!! Same guy lost one half of a pair of twin 36dcnf webers, lost untold numbers of bolts and parts and never completed the work he was paid for. No bitterness from me though (I am serious) as it is old water under the bridge. It does crap me to have one last show of his stupidity, sloppiness and incompetence though. What a kn*b!
A good lesson though to make sure I pay careful attention to previous work and make sure it is correct. When I saw the posts from last night it only took ten seconds of logic to know it was wrong. Oh well ... haven't had too much in the way of setbacks up till now so I'll suck it in and get on with it🥲
cnfabo ·
so what engine combo have you decided to go for ??
vassy66T1 ·
Hi Chris
It will be a 1999cc. Am going for 94mm pistons (Mahles I have) with a 72mm stroke which will most likely be from a de-stroked 74mm crank. The crank I don't have yet. The case will be an AS41 (already have) and the heads 043 (already have) that will be ported and fitted with 42 (or possibly 44mm) intakes and 37mm exhaust. The cam is yet to be decided. Will be running on premium pump gas. The carbs are the 45 dellortos mentioned earlier in the thread. I would like to do the porsche colling but budget may well tell the story for me there.
Cheers for asking. Takes my mind of the two steps forward and one step back. 😎
cnfabo ·
same crank and heads as me.
hellbugged ·
yeah, ive cut and turned those adjusters before........just did it a out little wider than they are originally.......damn dude 🙅, i noted it earlier in the thread and never got round to mentioning it, until i saw last nights up date
quick steer on "hellnotch" is custom made and machined to re-align tie rod ends with the lowered front end 👍........there are off the shelf ones available which are a bit smaller so don't provide the "reduction" that ours does....i'll send one up with the parts for you to work off
but for racing, i would rate this as a must do after experiencing the difference, almost considering it as a safety item for the control it gives back to the driver.......it's no coincidence WRC drivers have to put very little input into the steering wheel to make BIG and constant corrections 🥷
extension block on steering pitman arm.....
BEST descriptions to find the cam you need for where you want to run your engine are here.......you can work out the equivelent in engle brand from these lists..........
any one details on the quick steer? if anyone has a bit of a ballpark sketch I have a mate with an cnc router.St
Stephen
vassy66T1 ·
Thanks Daimo for the info!
The gear to sort out quick steer will be excellent thanks.
Trev (my brother in law) will be down in your direction over easter so I am wondering if that may be a good time to get some gear or otherwise link up with someones trip to Brisbane.
For the cam I am thinking we are somewhere around the K10 to Fk87. I am pretty sure the FK89 would be going too far for our uses but I could be wrong.
Hey daimo, don't let Matt see those disc rotors ... he'll hate them 🙅
Turbo54 ·
Hey Vassy,
Looking great. Good it is getting somewhere. Are you painting it silver?
T54
vassy66T1 ·
Most likely not.
The exterior colour is still up in the air. I was settled on black for a long time, and from an aesthetic point of view I would still like it, but after such a hot and long summer the idea of rivers of sweat in my eayes on the start line seems like a bad idea. (I think I must have been born with twice the number of sweat glands to average 🤖)
So part of me wants to do it in an original oval colour (also hence the black) and the other half could go for anything.
It is nice to have the choice to make though.👍
Must have photos of a hundred beetles on my hard drive to try to help me make the choice.
Here is a few of my favouite samples.
I know I will be told I am a bit nuts for going for something 'pretty' in a race car but ... I don't care 🤪😂
I only have one oval and want it to be the way I will appreciate it (even if I bend and/or scratch it and have to repair it)
Turbo54 ·
Check out the USA 54 factory colour called saturn silver, Like a dark matallic purple/ blue that sparkles into a brightish silver in the light.
I was going for it for a very lng time before I wrapped my head around something else. I would also consider something flat (non metallic) cause it is a lot easier to touch up if you have a mishap.
T54
vassy66T1 ·
Thanks turbo54 I will have to check that out.
cnfabo ·
daimo, this quick steer , does this give better steering response and better steering lock ?? if so where could i get one or maybe get a mock up to go off.??
JVLRacing ·
use escort rack
hellbugged ·
JVLRacing wrote:use escort rack
........for bumpsteer........or show cars 😘
JVLRacing ·
hellbugged wrote:
JVLRacing wrote:use escort rack
........for bumpsteer........or show cars 😘
hhhmmmidiot🙅
hellbugged ·
modified spring plates.......
vassy66T1 ·
One metal holesaw coming up 🤘
matberry ·
You want to buy a good hole saw Marcus, them be pretty hard steel if using og spring plates. Note also the fastening holes have been enlarged.
cnfabo ·
JVL, WHATS A ESCORT RACK ???
mactaylor ·
use a slug cutter they are much nicer to use and will cut thru most things! any body got some adjusters lying around they want to sell me?
hellbugged ·
chris fabian wrote:JVL, WHATS A ESCORT RACK ???
ford escort........why would ya!
matberry ·
mactaylor wrote:use a slug cutter they are much nicer to use and will cut thru most things! any body got some adjusters lying around they want to sell me?
I can get em for you, pm or phone 0408 704 662
vassy66T1 ·
Hey Matt
Might take it to my sheetmetal friend for that attention.
Mactaylor I have a secondhand set of adjusters only fitted once upside down by someone I once knew 🤪
The only rack I am interested in isn't on an escort 😂
matberry ·
vassy66T1 wrote:Hey Matt
Might take it to my sheetmetal friend for that attention. 👍
The only rack I am interested in isn't on an escort 😂
mmmm rack of lamb 😂😂
JVLRacing ·
chris fabian wrote:JVL, WHATS A ESCORT RACK ???
out of a escort car......😎
JVLRacing ·
hellbugged wrote:
chris fabian wrote:JVL, WHATS A ESCORT RACK ???
ford escort........why would ya!
🥲
JVLRacing ·
hellbugged wrote:modified spring plates.......
looks like a pair of scissors used on them....😂hellodamo
Craig Torrens ·
Just dont let the scutineers see the Quicksteer...........your're not supposed to use them !
Craig Torrens ·
you should also grind the top of the shock towers back so when you run neg camber the tyres don't scrub....its also worth stitch welding the towers as the spot welds tend to let go.
colonel mustard ·
Fords are fords.... vw's are not fords...... YAY.
vassy66T1 ·
Thanks for the tip Craig
vassy66T1 ·
A little progress again on the beloved beetle.
Had it sandblasted to help speed up the process a little (and for weight saving 🤘)
A couple of pics below. Spies Hecker etch primer for first coat before getting the high build 2 pac undercoat on it.
It is a pretty honest body but not without a flaw here and there.
vassy66T1 ·
Some photos of things in primer
This weekend will see the brakes and suspension getting a hop on. Thanks to Damien Pell for some gearbox mounts and spring plate templates.
More info later this week but dual master cylinders with in cabin adjustment of bias and 4 wheel discs are the go for my little baby 😘
Bit of excitement is creeping back in
matberry ·
vassy66T1 wrote:Bit of excitement is creeping back in
Cool Marcus....good to hear
oldskl60 ·
Nice work Marcus, great to see!!
Sides ·
Great to hear you're back into it Marcus !!!
Will be great to have another beetle competing regularly up here.
👍
vassy66T1 ·
Got some more work done over the weekend.
Front end has been removed and disassembled. Decided to check it more carefully after upside down adjuster fiasco. The beam has been welded in the no longer straight position 😠
It is now one useless piece of rubbish. Pretty sure this is the same beam that came out of the car and was fine at the point when I handed it over ... what a joke.
Anyway, I am sourcing a new/2nd hand beam. The rear end got some attention and is ready for discs and calipers to be fitted. I will get the spring plated modified this week and probably assemble the rear next weekend.
Below is the brake balance setup for running 2 master cylinders. I will be fabrication a pedal setup with adjustable everything to suit. Also got some V force wheels so am selling the rivieras. The rivieras were 5.5" and that was an issue for tyre fitment which is critical (stating obvious here)
Another photo of the body below. It is progressing.
vassy66T1 ·
Picture of rear discs and my beetle and the wifes Kombi sharing the back yard. My lovely wife has decided to put her kombi in the shed until the beetle is finished. What a gal!! Thanks Trish 😘
vassy66T1 ·
Here are a few photos of amatuers at work on the doors.
vassy66T1 ·
I finally have a straight front end ... yee fricken haah!!!
Thanks Craig T.
Craig Torrens ·
No worries Marcus.......I'm glad I could help out.
give me a yell if you need anything else, the bat cave is always open for you 👍😉
STIDUB ·
im curious how your going to run the dual masters... made any progress with mounting? staying floor mount of going for an overhead setup?
vassy66T1 ·
Hey STIDUB.
Haven't made progress yet but the first plan of attack will be with a floor or 'firewall' monted setup outside the cabin.
Once the front end is assembled then the pedal box and brake setup is next on the list.
Should see something in the next few weeks.
vassy66T1 ·
Bit more work completed on the weekend ... time is at a bit of a premium at this end of the year.
The doors now only need the tiniest repairs and wet rub the hi-build 2K primer back. Came up looking really quite good.
The heads for the motor have arrived back in Oz and will be getting checked and cleaned/set up as will the bottom end crank, rods and case. Matt is handling this with Craig (Crankshaft engineering) doing the machine work.
The heads are wedgeports with 44mm inlets and 37mm exhaust. Chassis is on its wheels but now ready for front end adjusters to be fitted correctly. 😎
vassy66T1 ·
Some pics of the heads. Should be some poke to be found in here somewhere!??
Sides ·
Hmmm.... wonder if you can fit one of Craigy's pigeon's down those ports...
😉
I know it'll be 1999cc, but what cam and CR you planning on running Marcus ???
vassy66T1 ·
Matt Berry is going to be the one to make that call once the flow of the heads is determined.
It isn't set in concrete yet. Starting to move along a little though.
Craig Torrens ·
Sides wrote:Hmmm.... wonder if you can fit one of Craigy's pigeon's down those ports...
😉
I know it'll be 1999cc, but what cam and CR you planning on running Marcus ???
Nah mine can only fit a Finch compared to the Pigeon ports of the Wedges 😂
Sides ·
OK, fair enuff - be interested to hear what Matt says/finds with 'em.
Possibly a dumb question... is it just the quality of the pics, or are there no threads cut into those spark plug bosses ???
matberry ·
Ok Ok, bad phone pics I know but too much drama with proper camera for me.
Yes there are threads for sparkplugs.
1999cc, maybe FK 89 (can't help but stick with the old favorites 😁 ) and around 12:1 but early days yet, manifolds are weeks away, so no final decisions until all sussed.
Sides ·
OK, cool - cheers Matt. The threads question was cos I thought maybe you were going for different plugs or locations.
Great to see the progress Marcus - can't wait for another Brissie VW to be hillclimbing regularly !!!
So some photo's coming out of Craig's uber-power 1916.... awesome !!! Can just see the ad now "Oval Ports - right-sized for a Finch, when you're just not hungry for Pigeon.". Very cool.... especially since I've seen a VERY similar set of heads just recently.....
😉
matberry ·
Forgot to mention the small thread for the plug. Uses NGK D6EA.
Craig Torrens ·
matberry wrote:Ok Ok, bad phone pics I know but too much drama with proper camera for me.
Yes there are threads for sparkplugs.
1999cc, maybe FK 89 (can't help but stick with the old favorites 😁 ) and around 12:1 but early days yet, manifolds are weeks away, so no final decisions until all sussed.
Nice 😎.........what fuel will it be running with that comp ratio ?
vassy66T1 ·
The plan is certainly pump gas (98octane) but Matt is the engine maestro 👍
Craig Torrens ·
vassy66T1 wrote:The plan is certainly pump gas (98octane) but Matt is the engine maestro 👍
If you plan on running 98octane then I think you will have some major issues running 12:1 😊
matberry ·
Craig Torrens wrote:
vassy66T1 wrote:The plan is certainly pump gas (98octane) but Matt is the engine maestro 👍
If you plan on running 98octane then I think you will have some major issues running 12:1 😊
Yeah prolly a bit ambitious, we'll be using ceramic coatings as well so there's a few points of compression there for free (virtually 🙂 )and gotta see where the heads are first.
Craig Torrens ·
cool...should go hard then 😉
Marcus and the motor that is !😂
matberry ·
Craig Torrens wrote:cool...should go hard then 😉
Marcus and the motor that is !😂
😂😂😂
Prolly in that order too.😂
vassy66T1 ·
I'll go hard if I sit in the sun too long maybe!! Old and crusty 🙄
vassy66T1 ·
Haven't updated for a while. Progress is being made on the body and panels. Couple of photos below. New engine for the single cab has sucked up some of my time and resource.
Pics
cnfabo ·
are those still the 043 heads marcus? and who did the work on them?
Craig Torrens ·
cnfabo wrote:are those still the 043 heads marcus? and who did the work on them?
they are 044 wedgeports.
Unless you are building an over 2lt stroker or a stock 1600 the 043 are not worth using.
cnfabo ·
craig, can u explain why the 043 are not worth using on a 1916cc??
Craig Torrens ·
because you can't machine the combustion chamber depth any lower to increase the compression ratio.
the 043 casting only goes down 3 fins deep, so you can only machine the head for "clean up", not to remove any material.
Whereas with an 040 head,the combustion area's casting goes down 4 fins deep.....so you have more "meat" to play with, which means you can remove more to decrease cc's in the combustion chamber and therefore raise the compression.
The 044 heads are cast all the way down.
Because stroker motors usually have larger cc capacity (over 2lt) the combustion chamber doesn't need to have a lower cc capacity to raise the comp, so 043's are good for that. And well 1600's are just low comp anyway !
The other negative with 043's is that they have a smaller exhaust valve than an 040, and the valve stem is 9mm (from memory) which are bloody hard to buy when replacing!
Hope that answers your Q ?
cnfabo ·
exactly what stan told me.. cheers craig....
vassy66T1 ·
Yes the 043's have been put aside to go on the wife's 1600cc kombi engine.
They would have been stretched to their limit or beyond to do what I want.
vassy66T1 ·
Well with study and other things (like two new motor and gearbox builds and installs for a couple of kombis) work has been only progressing slowly.
The body is however getting quite close now.
Below are some photos of where it is at. The fuel tank area had been bastardized by a previous owner (who also had a fetish for freakin fibreglass 🙁 ) so a new front clip has been installed. Will still have to fabricate and install the back edge of the fuel tank surround.
Firewall is almost ready to be replaced as you can see from unpicking below. The only thing that will leave will be the mod to have the rear apron removable from the firewall back for engine access and easy in/out.
On the engine front, the Scat have finally delivered the custom crank that I ordered (and paid for) last October. It is a 72mm forged 4340 superlight, knife edge counterweight crank with lightened journals.
It will be partnered with some re-furbished Carillos that passed all there tests with flying colours.
One of the next jobs is finishing off suspension including fitting front end adjusters, (the right way up) rear camber adjusters, and then making a new pedal box/cluster.
Cheers
A butchered oval fuel tank area
Another photo of the same
Firewall in need of replacing
Donor firewall almost unpicked
New front clip fitted
The body as it is now
oldskl60 ·
You are a talented man Marcus! Great work
dangerous ·
Any pictures of the new crank Marcus?
What journals did you choose?
vassy66T1 ·
No pics yet Dave.
Matt is picking it up at Valla from Rodney.
Stuck with T1 journals I am fairly sure. (ignorant driver/owner talking)
matberry ·
Yep Marcus, T1 mains, VW big ends. Edit: whoops...type 4 center main 🙂
Good to see some progress on the body Marcus 👍 keep it up 🙂.
vassy66T1 ·
So a Scat counter weight knife edge crank (custom made/ordered) has arrived!!
The centre main journal is type 4 : my bad from last info Mr DB.
Thanks to Rod Penrose and Matt Berry for their part in this 😘
Looks strong 🙂
dangerous ·
Mmmmm!
Salubriuos crank!
Are you going dry sump Marcus?
Magnesium or aluminium case?
What is your planned completion date?
johny rotten ·
odd shaped counterweights 🤪
interesting hole drilling
vassy66T1 ·
dangerous wrote:Mmmmm!
Salubriuos crank!
Are you going dry sump Marcus?
Magnesium or aluminium case?
What is your planned completion date?
Hey Dave
Not going dry sump, just using a deep sump (size to be confirmed), a magnesium case (rules if read strictly would seem to indicate I need to have an original "block" (the rules say block not case obviously) not an aftermarket and/or performance one). Rods are standard length Carillos with vw journals.
Completion date .... hmmmm ; not this year I don't think. (If I talk down the finish does that mean it might happen sooner?) Early/mid next year is realistic for time and money 🥲
johny rotten ·
what is the bore and stroke size
vassy66T1 ·
72mm stroke and 94mm bore = 1998.6cc
Under 2litre Improved production
DieSchnelleKafer ·
hi, when you say you got the car sand blasted does that mean actual sand or some other mdeia like bead or soda? if not what did you use. both my doors fenders W decklid and hood have been sanded back and over the years formed deep surface rust. what would you recommend?
cheers,
blair
oh by the way great build porn.. i mean pics. i wish my oval was coming along this quick
vassy66T1 ·
Hey Blair
Sorry I had only just noticed your post oops 😊
I wish my oval was coming along quick ... I did have it sand blasted. The guys were reasonably careful. If you wanted to be sure then some media that would heat the panels less would be advised.
I will go look for your thread now. 🙂
vassy66T1 ·
Well a little spare time and some funds have meant some progress on the Beetle. Not massive but positive nonetheless.
First pic is of a nice front end that has now been fitted with adjusters (right way up and in the right position 🤪)
Next pic is the shock towers trimmed and seam welded
The other pics are of the rear end going together with the type 3 bars in place and the camber adjusters
Bought some gear for the workshop (shed) which has made life easier and more things possible. A 20 ton press (just a baby), die grinder, vernier calipers, SP tools spanner set 8mm to 19mm, dawn fabricated offset vice 5", and some other bits and pieces.
Hope to have it on its wheels with front sway bar in place by Saturday evening.
Aussie Dubbin ·
Looking good
vassy66T1 ·
Cheers Aussie Dubbin
Down on its wheels today.
Most things went reasonably well.
The fitting kit for the front sway bar was in need of modifications.
All seems good. Front end feels quite compliant and the sway bar does its bit when you jump on just one side.
In the midst of making up the intermediate gear box mount at the minute.
Hydraulic handbrake is a cool solution for the rear discs for me.
Currently also making brake lines.
vassy66T1 ·
Last one for the moment
Finished off the intermediate gearbox mount. Lot of stuffing around for a little mount 🙂
Am starting on the pedal assembly next and will be going with a hydraulic clutch setup.
bat69 ·
Looking good Marcus. Do you have an estimated completion date? That is a massive front bar. What size is it?
Aussie Dubbin ·
marcus where did you get that front bar? What is your recomendation bat69?
vassy66T1 ·
Front bar is a 22mm (I do have a 20mm front bar also in case I need to go down in size/stiffness. I think that will be likely)
The rear that I have is a 24mm. Am hoping for a balanced feel not too much oversteer. Time will tell.
I am hopeful for middle of the year now for the car to see the track. It is nice to see it get this far now.
Cheers for your interest.
matberry ·
Looking good Marcus 👍👍
hellbugged ·
👍
66deluxe ·
Looks great love the shocks and the handbrake
cnfabo ·
hey,marcus, where did u purchase the hanbrake from ??
marcus I think that handbrake has us all excited can you spill any more info and is it street legal? So what rear callipers, sorry if you already said that . Cheers
bat69 ·
Aussie Dubbin wrote:marcus I think that handbrake has us all excited
There is nothing that exciting about it I dont think. Its a hand brake that runs in the rear line with a master cylinder. You pull it and it locks the rear wheels. Rally cars have been running them as 'standard issue' for decades. You can buy flash mechanisms, like ones similar to Marcus' from rally places like Revolution etc.
Rules vary from state to state re legality. Check with your local Roads Authority
vassy66T1 ·
Extreme Motorsports
197 Toombul Road, Northgate, Queensland, Australia 4013
Phone: 07 3630 4377
Fax: 07 3630 4355
They are nice guys. Bought my Sparco helmet off them also.
The rally and drift guys have been using these for a while. You can mount the handbrake lever vertically also which is what the rally and drift guys would do I hazard a guess.
I liked the idea that I didn't have to piss around to have a handbrake. No idea on the street legal.
Calipers were from a rear wheel disc kit I bought through VW and Volvo centre (from a Formula V build that did not go ahead). Looked a bit like one of John Shermans but I couldn't be sure.
lou0060 ·
great build Marcus, we'll have to catch up and compare notes. I'm working on brakes /front end and rear brakes at the moment on my 69-EJ2TT race car and keen to see how your suspension set up works on the track.
Love the pan work you did. Worthy of a show car....
vassy66T1 ·
Thanks for the kind compliments lou0060.
It isn't a show car but I wanted people to look at it and think "that is tidy".
Happy to share notes when I have some. At the moment it is a hopeful for mid year to see it hit the track. 😵💫
lou0060 ·
are you heading up for dubs at the taven or pie or whatever they call it now?? I think it's Feb 20th. The Top Gear series starts at Lakeside same day so will probably split the day between the two. might catch up then.
mactaylor ·
gday marcus what spindles are you using and have you worked out a way to adjust your rear camber?
vassy66T1 ·
Hey mactaylor
I am running dropped spindles on the front. (2" I am fairly sure)
The rear camber is going to be adjusted via the crazy Porsche copy camber adjusters.
See the close up in the photo below. Adjuster is the one in the bottom left hand corner.
Honestly have no ideas how they work but am assured that they do.
vassy66T1 ·
A couple more photos ... why not
Put the wheels on today. V force spiders with some s/h track tyres. From the look of things I will need to get the top arms bent to get the desired -ve camber on the fronts.
Have some aluminium arriving tomorrow to start fabricating a pedal assembly. Looking forward to that one.
16mm solid for the rod straight through for the accelerator, 25 by 3mm tube that will need to be honed out to take some 16 by 20mm bushes. Uprights are 40mm by 10mm flat with holes to come
oldskl60 ·
Looking great Marcus!! You must be getting excited with it on wheels
matberry ·
Awesome mate, big week eh???
colin ·
Gday Marcus,
Your project looks awesome, i love your attention to detail.
Glad to see my old tyres went to a good home.
Cheers Col
vassy66T1 ·
Thanks Col.
Will have to come for a drive to watch you guys run one time this year.
Tried to last year but family commitments clashed. Your engine is sounding very sweet, 👍
cnfabo ·
looks sick marcus...love the first photo of the rolling pan....
are those 205's on a 6" rim????
colin ·
vassy66T1 wrote:Thanks Col.
Will have to come for a drive to watch you guys run one time this year.
Tried to last year but family commitments clashed. Your engine is sounding very sweet, 👍
Thanks mate.
A good hillclimb which is the closest to you would be Grafton on the 12/06/2011 which is the June longweekend.
Practice is on Saturday afternoon with racing Sunday. It,s a great hillclimb for spectators as you can see the whole track from one spot.
Keep up the good work on your racer.😎
Cheers Col
vassy66T1 ·
Little bit more work happening
Got some Aluminium to start fabricating the pedal assembly.
Cruddy drawing and fabrication work to date.
All things going well I will have it mostly together by the end of next weekend (the pedal assembly that is)
One of my neighbours is a Timken bearings rep so we are catching up tomorrow to detail the bearing solutions.
Another neighbour is a very good boiler maker so will be doing the alloy welding. 🙂
Craig Torrens ·
Looking good Marcus 👍
vassy66T1 ·
Slow progress but bought the body home (it's got a way to go till it is finished but I need to make sure that master cylinders, pedal boxes and the like will fit where I want them)
It looks like I will be needing to flare the guards.
Didn't really expect that one but heights are looking good.
Now to wait for some parts to arrive for rear sway bar fitment and to finalise the fabrication of the pedal box. Oh and a whole pile of other stuff.
matberry ·
Great mate.....how did the pedals fit?
Looks like fat guards all round.
vassy66T1 ·
Hey Matt
I am waiting for the pedal pads to finalise the fabrication.
I also wanted to check the fitment of the master cylinders just so I got the pushrods and travel correct.
The pedal box will be sturdy (read overbuilt) but hey that's alright.
matberry ·
Yeah mate, the number of trial fits of every component when your in the fabrication stage is always surprising.🤓
Sides ·
Great to see progressing again Marcus !!!
Instead of flaring the guards... possibly run a thicker beading rubber ???
I've got 10mm wide on my front guards, and have fitted up to 20mm wide on the rear before making the bolts line up gets too tough.
Gives a nice bit of extra clearance, without changing the look too much... just makes it look a bit fatter really.
👍
Oh tell ya what tho... that's a bit low in the front... 100mm lowest point for sprung components buddy !!!
😂
vassy66T1 ·
Thanks Dave
Interesting idea.
I will have a look at yours at Mt Cotton this next round.
I was waiting for the height to be mentioned. 😁 I'll be cutting that stock tow hook off ... 😉
dangerous ·
Looks great Marcus.
You may have some material left to machine from the back of the wheels too.
lou0060 ·
hi Marcus, what a small world hey! only thing I'd say is don't believe anything Brett tells you.....🤪🤪🤪🤪
We are about at the same stage with our cars. Brett was here a week ago and drooled over my car but didn't mention anything about your car. He must have had a mental block or something.
love your idea on the pedals, might have to copy yours if my flat feet don't work on the standard ones.....
might have to take a run over your side of town one day soon.
vassy66T1 ·
That would be cool Lou.
Brett only spoke highly of you ... is that the part I don't believe???
lou0060 ·
absolutely!
vassy66T1 ·
Haven't been totally asleep though not much to show.
Here is a sneak peek of the pedal assembly
Solid as a rock
Some sparco pedal pads to be fitted to these
Body goes to panel beater for some work Monday week
progress is nice when it happens
matberry ·
Pedals looking great Marcus
vassy66T1 ·
Well another year and some hope of hitting the bitumen.
I have the CDS for the roll cage in my garage ready for me to begin fabrication. The panelwork is fairly complete (i.e. rear guards widened (front still to go), rear beaver panel shortened (for exhaust clearance, ease of motor removal, and some lessened drag), and the engine firewall has been moved forward to allow easier access and additional options for placement of fuel/oil lines, pumps, breathers and whatever else seems to fit.
The engine case has had bronze inserts installed to give the correct/desired clearance for the lifters (thanks Dangerous) and other prep work on the case is underway. The engine is with Matt Berry and should be alright (😉) Volksie Mag case, Scat crank, carillo rods, Mahle P&B, CB Wedge ports, Oteva springs and Ti retainers, Scat 1.4 rockers, Cam yet to be determined, DTM fan shroud, 45 DRLA Dellortos, 1 3/4 berg headers (Borla muffler I am thinking, don't have this yet), MSD 7AL with 2 step.
Now to get off my bum and do my part: pics of springs and retainers below
JVLRacing ·
some smart thinking here! nice work mate😎
Craig Torrens ·
JVLRacing wrote:some smart thinking here! nice work mate😎
Unlike your race dust collector 😂 !
cnfabo ·
Craig Torrens wrote:
JVLRacing wrote:some smart thinking here! nice work mate😎
Unlike your race dust collector 😂 !
😂😂
JVLRacing ·
Craig Torrens wrote:
JVLRacing wrote:some smart thinking here! nice work mate😎
Unlike your race dust collector 😂 !
2inches thick
vassy66T1 ·
JVLRacing wrote:some smart thinking here! nice work mate😎
Cheers JVL
Super1302 ·
nice build.
go the fk10, i am running that with 040 heads with 44 x 37's, works great and not a pig to drive.
some useable rpm range with me 2332 combo and i got ngk cr7e spark plugs. 10 mm thread too. like yours, a tight squeeze. 👍
cnfabo ·
fk87 or 89 with a really tight box ????
vassy66T1 ·
I have been working on the beetle though to look at it you can hardly pick it.
I will have the main hoop and half laterals bent up this week so I can finally get into the cage. Pics below of the pedal assembly getting close. I had to add a support to the underside of the pan so got the car up onto 2 wheels ... look Mum!! 2 wheels 🙂
I have the pushrods to complete on the pedal assembly along with the pedal to pushrod mounts. I will show a pic of this when done.
I scored some Dellorto 48 DRLA tri-jets for the engine. Heads and intake manifolds are receiving attention from Westi atm.
DB pulled apart the gearbox to check (3 years since it was rebuilt) and there was some bog dust and ants 🤪
Engine is moving forward. End float of cam being set currently and deck heights etc checked and measured.
hellbugged ·
Looking good....keep going
Stanley ·
Pedals came up a treat Marcus. Looking great
68Volkaru ·
Inspiring work.
Love it all. love the prep and paint.
Specailly the pedals. do you have a 'test set' lying around for sale? 😂
JVLRacing ·
hey mate...comin up trumps.. can see ur puttin ur own ideas into this real nice😎
cnfabo ·
Ooh, u going to have happy feet with those pedals 🙂🙂....
What cam did u end up with?
vassy66T1 ·
Thanks for the comments 😉
The pedals were more effort than you would expect (as usual) but the end result is looking good.
I dropped the 44.45mm CDS bar off to the bender yesterday so will have the main and half laterals by the end of the week.
Finally I can get into the roll cage and seat mount.
Cam is similar to an FK87 with slightly less duration and almost 10% more lift.
matberry ·
Keep up the good work, mate. 👍👍👍
Dak-A-Tak ·
Have you seen !! the size of his feet !!!!! Thats why he has custom peddles .😂
Good work mate ! which guy bending up your cage ?
vassy66T1 ·
Shaun from Rapid Fabrication (your mate just down the road from you: works at G&D exhaust)
vassy66T1 ·
Well in between everything else I have found some time to work on the 54.
The cage is ready to weld up the second half of it now. The only parts I am yet to fit are the 'feet' (which are already fabricated), the bar for the harness mounts (once seat is mounted) and the cross bar under the dash (also after mounting the seat).
My goal was the cage before Christmas so I am happy. I have been doing a little more work with the pedals and their pushrods. Once I mount the seat it will start to move along nicely.
Mike did the TIG. He is a mate and a neighbour and currently is the man making the new Aussie Racing car chassis so he has some skills 👍
I went for maximum compliance and safety rather than lightweight for the cage (my personal choice).
Anyhow, some pics.
matberry ·
Sweet
Sides ·
Nice Marcus - looks strong as.
👍👍
Just quietly I'm diggin the colour on that engine lid in the 4th pic too...
👍
colin ·
Nice to see your car moving along Marcus.
Love to have you at a NSW Hillclimb event in the future.👍
Cheers Col
Craig Torrens ·
Looking good.............get him to stitch weld all the joins in the car too for added strength.
1966 type 3 ·
great to see more air cooled on the circuit great to watch should be more of em bugger the boring other shit ???????? cant beat watching beetles going through the hillclimb events
cnfabo ·
Oh, that's a nice specky cage.will feel safe in that🙂
How long till it will be rolled out do you think. And what colour
Cheers
vassy66T1 ·
Cheers for the comments
My personal deadline is July.
I hope it will be sooner but will wait and see.
Colour ... hmmm. No good grey in original 54 colours so either L275 Light beige, L227 Strato Silver or non 54 and go :L255 Jupiter Grey or L21 Pearl Grey
(the blue on the boot lid in the 4th pic is my son's '71 Dave 😁 )
Craig Torrens ·
Are you going to do anything with the "click clack" doors to make them safer.......i.e fit anti burst locks from a later bug ?
vassy66T1 ·
I will have to look at the doors Craig. It is on the yet to be finalised list.
Haven't figured out a solution if they are not secure enough.
I was told the 54 latches were better than later oval but hey ... what do I know 😏
bat69 ·
I think with that spec cage and if you tag it into the body at a few places you will find there will be zero body flex and your doors/latches will be fine.
matberry ·
^^ me too. I think the '54 catches should be fine with that cage
vassy66T1 ·
Thanks for your input all 👍👍
ian.mezz ·
and when you lock the drivers door , it has a bolt that goes in to hold it.
SunshineKarmann ·
Super nice work mate. Enjoyed reading the thread, just disappointed when I ran out of pages, keep on it!
1916baja ·
Nice cage!👍👍
vassy66T1 ·
Cheers 👍👍
Back into it early new year.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Looking good Marcus!!
Sides ·
Have you got aircon in your shed Marcus ???
Far too bl@@dy hot to work on Jezzi up here last few days !!!
cnfabo ·
I can't wait till this rolls out 🙂
What gear ratios are you going to run and tyres?
Fabo.......
vassy66T1 ·
Hey Chris.
I only just saw your post from over 6 months ago 🙅
Gear ratios are:
Tyres will be 195/50/15s (eventually) so Tyre 22.68"
1.09 for 4th =7000@105mph(120mph @8000)
1.44 for third =7000@79.7mph
2.0588 is stock second=55.6mph@7000
3.80 is stock first=30,2mph @ 7000
Here is a pic of the flywheel that has gone on a diet at Dave Butlers
Nice work
Work has been all consuming this year so no major progress 😢
On the positive side, work forced an extension of the shed so I made it a worthwhile extension.
When I save some coin there will be room and foundations for a hoist.
66deluxe ·
Nice shed Marcus, i see a tv but no fridge? Flywheel looks insane.
matberry ·
^^ yep, shed looks great. We said to DB 'make half of that go away'....guess we got precisely what we asked for 👍👍🙂
Sides ·
I've sooooo got a case of shed envy running right now....
The fridge is there but empty at the minute Damo
Thanks for the link Sander
The foundations are already in there when I did the slab.
Overkill from the engineer. They are 700mm deep pads.
sander288 ·
700mm; epic!
Love the car; didn't want to look into historic spec for the car?? seeing it is an oval. Could be pretty competitive in it's class for pre '58 cars 👍
Mine is slowly 😬 moving towards Historic Nb spec
money/time is towards getting a garage/carport thing for my backyard done; won't be as grand though, I've only got a 405m2 to play with
vassy66T1 ·
I did think about the historic option, but it would not be quick enough for my speed thrills with a 36er in it.
Slowly is all I can manage. I am not setting any more deadlines as they are all crap anyhow. I finish it when I get there.
mactaylor ·
we did a dept of housing project that had 100m3 of concrete in a slab 12 X10 count yourself lucky!
vassy66T1 ·
Was it built on top of a disused rubbish dump????? 🙄
FROSTY ·
Hey Marcus, I just went back through your build thread and its unreal!! Your cage is epic too!
vassy66T1 ·
Thanks Jason 👍
cnfabo ·
Any progress Marcus??the circuit racing section is just to quite so I thought I'd ask🙂.....
Weehhaa
Turbo54 ·
Hey Vassy,
Looks like it's coming along well. As for Colours mine was Polar Silver L324. A 56 colour but very sexy indeed. You should look into it if you want a grey/ silver.
Do you have a proper 54 Tank for it or are you using a later oval model to save weight?
vassy66T1 ·
Hi guys!!
Thanks for the g'day
I do love the polar silver 😉
I am just about to begin again and now even have a car hoist to help make it easier for this old man.
It has been a crazy year work-wise and have spent most of my energy just trying to make it to the other side. (bought out a business partner and went it alone early last year: n the middle of our biggest project yet🙄)
I am getting some assistance in putting the body on the pan then it is seat mount fitted and the cage welding can be completely finished.
The pedal set (custom made) was a painful idea I should have left alone but I am too far down the track now so will persist to finish it.
I have a vague hope of getting it to Valla but if I do it will be in Ipswich Grey (primer) 😂