Ok this also has me baffled. The wheels tyre on passenger side front is rubbing against the coil spring. at the top of wheel. This occured as the car was in an accident with a small tree. I am not used to this sort of front end but assume the adjustment to rectify would be either the tie bar, lower control arm or sway bar (or maybe a mixture of all). Any idea which one, or do I just experiment? Once running and the tyre is away from the coil spring I will get it adjusted by a pro but want to get it free at this stage.
David
colonel mustard ·
It would be helpful if you took some pics. Is it a two or three bold mcpherson strut??
kombivw ·
Absolutely no idea to be honest. I never even heard of Mcpherson till I went looking for the non existant shock absorbers on front end and then started some research. Will look tomorrow and post some pics. Just like to say thanks all for such swift advice. This beetle is going to be going in no time with such helpfull and expert advice.
David
Bizarre ·
There are 2 bolt (71 - mid 73) and 3 bolt (73 - 75)
Any trace of damage where the strut bolts to the body??
More than likely the strut itself or enen the control arm
Pictures may help
VWCOOL ·
Bizarre wrote:There are 2 bolt (71 - mid 73) and 3 bolt (73 - 75)
Any trace of damage where the strut bolts to the body??
More than likely the strut itself or enen the control arm
Pictures may help
try the other way around Bazza!
Bizarre ·
😊
greedy53 ·
wrong ofset wheels go stock and all will be better IF YOU HAVE A STOCK SPARE TRY IT
1303Steve ·
Hi
If the wheels are the same side 2 side its could be a bent stub axle or strut.
Steve
kombivw ·
Ok have now taken pictures and have found what I think is the problem but cant understand why it is top of wheel rubbing with this problem? Dont reply yet as I am gonna start loading pictures and explain things as I go. Will let you know when finished
kombivw ·
Ok this is the pictures, so need to know whether it is 2 or 3 bolt Mac. I cannot find any breakages or bends other than the angle of the disc plate. This appears to be bent down and when I rotate it by hand, it is certainly hitting at the bottom with the backking plate. This really confuses me, because as can be seen from other pictures the wheels tyre is hitting at the top of spring coil ! With the angle of disc going out at top, it should be hitting at the bottom me thinks?. The tyre also when on full steering lock to right, hits the body.
None of this occurs on the drivers side and there is a good inch and a half gap between tyre and coil on that side.
FINISHED (I THINK)
ian.mezz ·
I think I can see 3 bolts at bottom of the strut
kombivw ·
Do i need to take pics at different angle? here is two of the drivers side (which is good)
Joel ·
tis 3 bolt
is it just me but the left strut looks bent in the1st and 3rd pic
have you checked for play in the wheel bearings and balljoint?
Joel ·
i'd be trying another left strut cos that one looks seriously bent
trickysimon ·
Yeh thats the first thing I saw as well
cb john ·
Joel's right...
kombivw ·
what number is third pic lol. I cant work out anything bent other than disc angle No actually I have not but will. But that disc is def at a weird angle. Somethin is wrong
cb john ·
Stub axle might be bent as well....
Bizarre ·
THAT is bent
It is a banana
colonel mustard ·
Tis bent indeed
kombivw ·
Why did I not notice that. Here is good side and comparing pictures can see. But I never saw when comparing under car? I guess that would also straighten dics angle as well. Anyway gonna sleep well on all this great advice. thanks all till tomorrow
ian.mezz ·
yer buy a set of complete adjustable lowered struts and then it will match the sagged rear end.🤪
kombivw ·
I just went and had a look again and really could not notice kink like u can in the picture. But there is a huge bulge at the bottom of strut when you feel it. Like as someone stated, a banana!
Ok Ian "complete adjustable lowered struts and then it will match the sagged rear end"
When you say complete do you mean get them for front passenger and driver sides or both front and both rear?
TOLD U THAT U HAVE TO SPEAK SLOWLY TO ME 😬
Joel ·
Hi David,
its left and right for the front
they are full replacement struts which you need in your case to replace that bent one but the added benefit is being adjustable you can set the front ride height to what ever height you like as they have a locking ring which locates the spring perch at different heights without effecting the ride quality
one of the best moves i ever made to my bug was getting these
allows me to change my ride height easily depending what rims i decide to roll at the time
ian.mezz ·
what Joel said
kombivw ·
Those struts Look and sound the biz. This weekend is the start of the engine and if all goes well, the electrics also. Then with list in hand its off to the shop to get the bits including the struts. Too tired to do more than look at the beetle today and should be organising rego for Kombi anyway, as due this month.
kombivw ·
Who are those struts made by? was chatting to a guy at work and he reckons there is no such thing as adjustable struts for Mcpherson. I am not really in a position to argue with him though i said i would show him a pic tomorrow.
Joel ·
your mates obvoiously not a superbug guy then
theres heaps on the market from budget empi jobbies from Classic VW
9626 SUPER BUG ADJUSTABLE LOWERING STRUT 1971-1973 PAIR .
Ooops - just looked again.
The one on the left is 3 bolt 😊
this is 3 bolt
kombivw ·
Not 3 Bolt ! Now that sounds like an important fact lol. I was going to buy them so pleased that was pointed out. Iit sounds like I should make sure that Rydalmere VeeDub have them for my 3 bolt front end first by the sounds of it. As Rydalmere is way closer than Queensland. Thanks all
1303Steve ·
Hi
Im not sure what future plans you have for the car, but your going to fit wider wheels you need to go for the struts with a skinny spring like bizarre posted.
Steve
kombivw ·
To be honest I would prefer to have standard wheels, as the ones on it now are wider than i like. But I really have no plans at all in changing whats on it now. I am basically going to leave the car as is. Only plans are get engine running nice, Tidy up interior fix body up and respray. Its actually for my wife and son to use. The skinny bizaar do sound a good idea though as it will give my son the option later I spose. I am also still debatting just getting the one standard strut as well now. As that will save me a few bob in the short term. But even with that, should I be replacing both?
Must admit though that the adustable does sound good as I can, as was pointed out adjust for various wheels.
Joel ·
Hey David, as someone has widened the gaurds on your bug with standard 4" rims its gonna look like a fat women on roller blades
i'd stick with the good ol sunrasiers its got now
the more tread you have on the black stuff the better
you only need the slimline narrow coil style struts if you want rims wider than 6" plus theres abit of a price difference between them and stock style adjustables
whilst a stock strut would be the ideal budget solutuion how can you beat the flexiblily of:
Bug goes up....Bug goes down
kombivw ·
Yer I do agree Joel, but will I need other things to? Like special inserts / fitting kits to use them or can I use stuff I already have? What is that cat doing?
Joel ·
i'd just got home from brissy, he's probably licking squished insects off my bumper bar
you just buy them as a package deal, strut housings and inserts.
then just use your old springs and upper bearing housing and bolt in
kombivw ·
Dropped in to classic vee dub. Bloody cool stuff, but never had drivers side winder adjuster in stock so gotta go back anyway ! Still a bit confused re struts as guy reckons I do need springs as well, so never bought them as gonna be busy with engine this weekend. And never had 370 bucks on me anyway. But def looks the place to get some bits i need.
Joel ·
the ones CVD sell just use the original stock springs
kombivw ·
Weekend again so back to Beetle. I got given a passenger strut during the week, so am at this stage just gonna fit that, and later for sure gonna go adjustable. At least this way I can concentrate on getting the front end right first (i still dont really know if it is just the Strut that needs replacing) gotta take care of the dosh as I know there will be a few more expenses still. Well will give you an update at end of day.
Joel ·
is it just the strut you got or does it have the stub axle still attached?
cos im sure you will find like most people do that separating the strut and stub axel on a 3 bolter isnt the most pleasent of jobs as they rust together
trick i use is leave the strut bolted into the car, remove the sway bar and inner control arm bolt as well as the brake disc
now slog the shit out of the stub axle with a BFH and working around it should start to break loose
i read about guys on SBO all the time fighting with heat and pullers etc in bench vices yet my method hasnt failed me yet
kombivw ·
Pleased I checked this first. Just found out there is a bike show at panthers today so had not started on Beetle, and will wait till later to start now. I was though gonna remove top bolts first. So pleased I never, as it is not attached to stub axle.
PHEW
Bizarre ·
Joel wrote:i read about guys on SBO all the time fighting with heat and pullers etc in bench vices yet my method hasnt failed me yet
My method works well to
ONLY buy 2 bolt cars
works every time for me
kombivw ·
Now u tell me ! lol
Am starting to feel pleased I am not putting adjustables on or would be doing this twice.
kombivw ·
Whats the story of removing this one (arrowed) I have tried belting from bottom with nut on but dont want to continue if that is gonna damage it. Jeez I hope it is the strut, It just dont look too bad in real life. But must be as cant see anything else. Re other matter Joel.
Will as u say hold off for now as may just be more, but will pm uwhen ready, Cheers 4 that
cb john ·
Use the ball joint separator...give me a PM, I'm not far from you..
kombivw ·
John
I have managed to get strut of stub axle without removing that link so all is good. I hope I have caught you before you leave! But thanks for the offer
David
cb john ·
No worries..
kombivw ·
While I got you I am cleaning both insides with emery cloth to put back together. The rubber seal between stub axle and disc brake section is torn so gonna replace that first. Any other things I should check and replace?
STIDUB ·
while its apart, replace all the rod ends & ball joints, cant remember how much but i picked it all up from vintage last time i was in syd, also a bushing kit might be worth your while since your taking it apart a wee bit, may as well do it in one hit the way i see it, just my 2c, good to see
Joel ·
they're bloody tight eh?
if theres no slop in the ball joint just replace the seal
same deal with the tierod
i normally take the caliper and disc of the spindle, you would be amazed how much weight that takes away
b4 its all reassambled put a nice big glob of grease between the strut and spindle, it makes it so much easier to get apart next time
and once its back together be sure to set your wheel bearing play right,
ive killed one spindle cos they were to tight and another cos they were too loose
helbus ·
I found replacing the control arm swaybar bushes with new nolethane ones, it got rid of the 'shimmy' in the steering. That is wobbles at high speed, or after hitting a bump, or a combination of the two.
kombivw ·
Bloody tight is right! that was good advice re keeping them done up at the top though, and I never took the dics off cuz I could not work out how lol or did I manage to remove that ball joint. Still it never stopped anything once progress had started, but I will pull apart to have a look and certainly will take the advice offered by you all re: control arm swaybar bushes with new nolethane ones, rod ends & ball joints
This has me worried tho
"b4 its all reassambled put a nice big glob of grease between the strut and spindle, it makes it so much easier to get apart next time
and once its back together be sure to set your wheel bearing play right,
ive killed one spindle cos they were to tight and another cos they were too loose" God I hope I can work out right play!
Joel ·
its not hard to get them right
the tinyest bit of play was is ok but i did it up till there was none
next thing driving down the motor way at 110km/h my front left wheel locked solid
the outter wheel bearing broke apart and the inner race fused itself to the spindle
That torn rubber cover shown above, dont seem easy to remove? Is that the sort of job i need a puller for? And if it is, would the same puller take the linkage ball joint out ? May need to take you up on yr offer John :=)
Can see now strut was bent BTW
Joel ·
i replaced one of my ball joint boots about 12 months ago but cant remember for the life of me how i got it apart
i would have used either a tierod splitter fork or i have a little 4" 3 legged puller
both invaluable tools when working on vw front ends
but in a pinch u could leave the inner control arm camber bolt in, upper strut bolted in, remove the swaybar end from the control arm and slog it downwards with a BFH
kombivw ·
That FB hammer of yours seems an essential tool on these front ends lol tho I may just have to invest in some kind puller as well or just keep hassling John HELLO JOHN ! JOHN HELLO... ARE YOU THERE JOHN? 😵
cb john ·
I just came in, give me a ring on 0416 160084
John
kombivw ·
John Will catch up soon but have found a 3 puller close by so think can do with this.
One other question all. I cant see how you can replace rubber on stub axle? Is this a buy another one job. And if is does anyone have one?
kombivw ·
I got a puller and still could not do it, so decided to rebuild the front as I really dont know if strut had sorted problem anyway. It has "Yipee". I am gonna pull apart again now I know how but not at the moment as I want to concentrate on engine and electrics, I will also have to replace the pipe to front brakes on passenger side, as was really badly stripped by someone so very hard to tighten and if gonna do so much anyway, thats a little job. Anyway I cant say just how proud I am to have done the front and got it working so well. Without you guys this would never have happened.
colonel mustard ·
So the front is done and wheel is back on and not rubbing and no major positive or negitive camber/toe. AS suggested, get a wheel allignment and have a pro check that your front end is tight and safe 🙂 All about safety!
Joel ·
kombivw wrote:Can see now strut was bent BTW
i think even the blind could see that 😉
yes my BFH is the essential tool of survival when working on cars
if it can sort the problem then its great stress releife unleashing it on the monza exhaust, empi labled parts and box of 009 distributors i have under the house 🤪
i wouldnt stress on the split ball joint boot just atm if you cant get it apart
be worth focusing on getting it running first
have you sorted the starter problem out yet?
its worth trying a couple of easy things before you rip it out as it worked b4 when you tried it
they dont randomly stop working overnight sort of thing
kombivw ·
Am pretty sure it is the starter. have already pulled it out and the brushes on one side are really worn? I am actually gonna buy some and instal them myself. If still a starting prob I will just exchange the starter I screwed up and hope it nothing else thats wrong lol. And yes, its full on engine now, then back to the small and what I now consider easy bits of front end (would not have said that last saturday lol
ps I must be blind Joel as it still dont look that bad to me. Is obviously but I am totally amazed new strut provides so much clearance!
colonel mustard ·
empi labled parts and box of 009 distributors i have under the house
Anything that you want to throw my way....... :S If your breaking it.... I'd love to help "break" some gear for you. (im going to take to my empi exhaust to a roadworks zone and throw it infront of a large rolling peice pr machinary) as soon as i can put the new one on. what other empi stuff is terribly crap???
colonel mustard ·
kombivw wrote:ps I must be blind Joel as it still dont look that bad to me. Is obviously but I am totally amazed new strut provides so much clearance!
Photo????
kombivw ·
Will be Posted tomorrow Colonel, now too dark and on my 3rd stubby :-) Actually will have to be much later sorry Jack busy on back end. But will post for sure.
colonel mustard ·
Nice!
Joel ·
colonel mustard wrote:what other empi stuff is terribly crap???
better off asking what isnt
as someones signature on TS says:
EMPI - chinese for crap
or - EMPI = Everything Made Passes Inspection.
it was THE brand in the 70s
now its all low grade stuff from sweat shops in taiwan that usually doesnt fit
i get sick of reading about ppl who have bought exhausts or tinware etc cos it was cheap that doesnt fit
