Car has sat for 2 years and was in a minor front end. Have removed the battery from my kombi and ignition lights etc seem fine. Went to fill with clean petrol but it promptly leaked out from underneath! I think it is just the pipe with in-line fuel filter that has come away but I really dont know as I cant see the nipple it connects to? Do I have to remove tank or is there some plate on underside to remove. Cant really see properly at the moment as fuel still coming out. On my kombi I can easily see this nipple but the bug is a challenge for many things it seems.
Even the Spark plugs look like there going to be a real pain to remove !.
Any help apreciated re petrol tank. And also if anyone can tell me what I should be doing before turning over would be great.
My plan was
# Pour in Clean fuel (though that has already provided a new job!)
# Clean spark plugs (if can get them out !)
# Clean points and check distributor cap
# and clean air filter
Then attemp to turn her over
kombivw ·
Forgot to subscribe to know when I get a reply and cant see how without doing on initial message? So writing an add on
kombivw ·
Ok well I have found answer to first question alone. You have to remove the Tank. ARE YOU LOT MAD!!! Why the bloody hell would you want a beetle? The kombi is far less bloody hard to get at things like a simple fuel line! Anyway now to put it back in and fill with fresh fuel.
Any other suggestions re pre checks prior to starting would be apreciated, as I will keep returning during day to check.
Bizarre ·
drain oil and replace
Cheap stuff - you will do it a few times
Set valves
Spark plugs are easy
Personally i like to remove the engine lid
Take it off
get rid of the spring
On the hinge - knok the hinge pin out and replace with 2 cut down VW dip sticks.
Perfect size.
Now it is a PoP to take the lid off and work down
If you just want to look you rest it on your head or stick a screw driver in the hinge to hold it open
As for getting the plugs out a normal socket with a knuckle and 2" extension and no problems what so ever
Sides ·
A couple of things I'd also be doing before trying to start it:
- check condition of all fuel hoses around the engine bay... 2 years of doing nothing, they still may have perished to nothing
- check there's nothing living in the carby or any other open holes... I'm thinking wasp nests, stuff like that (I've seen it before)
- check engine has oil, what condition it's in etc.
- make engine will turn over by hand (as in socket on the pulley or grab V belt)
- if it has an oil pressure gauge, disconnect HT lead from coil to dissy (so can't start) then crank on battery until there's oil pressure
- it no oil pressure gauge, do the same thing for a minute or so then pull the oil pressure sender and oil should come out
- once you actually start it, only run long enough to warm the oil, then give it an oil change
Other than that, good luck and let us know how you go !!!
kombivw ·
Well i cut the fuel hose at both ends and that fixed leak. I then fitted back on tank and rested tank down. I then refit in-line fuel filter and filled it with enough petrol to find hose had split again. Have decided that has told me something lol. Looks like a trip to repco. And thanks bizarre and sides, will take on board your advice when I get that far but I think I will keep lid as is.
kombivw ·
Why wont Kombi start!!! Duh battery is in Beetle
pod ·
kombivw wrote:Why wont Kombi start!!! Duh battery is in Beetle
that does help 😂 the fuel line is one thing that needs changing as you have found out ,and maybe a new filter as well as the plastic ones can get brittle with age as well :-(
kombivw ·
Not only that. I need to replace fuel line on other side of fuel filter! That is crazy it is about 2 inches inside with no access and a crimp fit! How are you sposed to get that? All I can think of is to break crimp and push new fuel line on with no crimp or dubly clip, as simply no way to get to it anyway. Any suggestions.
kombivw ·
Hope you guys dont mind the constant broadcast, but I am no mechanic and in between curses am actually not really disliking it. That is a poor design on fuel line after tank. What has happened is that someone has bent that pipe back while trying to force a new fuel filter on. When I used pliars to litterally break up crimp and old hose, it actually pulled pipe back to where it was visable. I was then able to connect the hose with a dubly clip. So have now connected all back up and put fuel in and it is holding. Must admit I was worried that I may have broken pipe but there are no leaks so all good.
Next is oil change, so lucky 4 you I may be too filthy to type so often lol
kombivw ·
drain oil and replace
The idiot guide states remove drain plug. But there is not one to remove! Do I actually have to remove the pan held with 6 bolts? I usually remove that on kombi after I have drained oil. Why cant it just have a drain plug like the Kombi? Please tell me I am doing something wrong, I will wait for 10 before starting on 6 bolts
kombivw ·
Reading back I only just realised what you meant re lid Bizarre, I thought you meant to make it a permanent pin removal feature.. Never did find the drain plug but removed a side plate and found a bolt i could losen enough to drain oil so drained just to that point and refilled. Checked carbs for obstructions removed air filter and added a little fuel inside carb. Flicked ignition and nothing!
Ironic really as it actually turned over on ignition when I had tried BEFORE removing tank? Anyway i did find a wire off near back of tank and when I connected that it did clunk on ignition (not turn over like before tank removal tho) Made assumption solenoid stuck so pushed back and forth (still just clunk) tried to wedge a spanner between solenoid and live (nothing) All i have is a clunk. I have seriously had enough today so will start tomorrow on removal of starter. As I just want to get all tools back in order and get cleaned up. I so wanted it to just turn over at least.
Joel ·
David, im guessing your kombi has a type4 engine in it seeing as you are abit unfamiliar with the type1 engine
it must be a later model engine
vw stopped putting the drain plug in to force lazy owners to drop the sump plate off and clean the strainer
to many people just used to drop the sump plug and never cleaned the strainer
just be gentle with the 6 nuts they can strip real easy, and get a new sump plate gasket kit b4 you do the final oil change
with the decklid all i do is fit some push toghether terminals on the number plate light wires for quick disconnecting and drive out the hinge pins and fit 6mm R clips
they're used on tractors and agricultural equipment and ive been timed, it takes me 15 seconds to remove my decklid and 32 to fit it back on including the spring
kombivw ·
Joel What would I do without your constant help (And others of course). Yer your right, mine is the 74 model Kombi, and I ask you what has it got to do with vw that there are lazy drivers who dont clean the Strainer !. I still reckon I prefer the plug as I do then remove strainer and clean it, but anyway I am starting to realise that any short cuts I may want dont seem to exist lol
I am so puzzled with the fact the engine turned before I removed Tank and now just clunks. Do you agree it must be the starter? Or could there have been any other wires I disturbed while removing petrol tank? I was surprised I disturbed any as I only lifted it enough to get to hose nipple.
The starter is also a pain to remove but thats similar to all starters I have tried to remove (always one difficult bolt/nut.
Anyway will remove deck lid and look at alternative method as it appears they will both be off for some time. Am Pretty sure judging by hoses near tank that there will be a lot of internal and external rubber to replace on engine as well.
The guy who owned this did not have much idea of using a dip stick to top up engine either, it was 2 inches over the full mark! Hoping this may have actually helped with keeping some rubbers lubricated but probably wont.
Joel ·
All good, thats what these forums are for
maybe tracing the wire from the ignition switch back to the solenoid would be a good start as it goes thro 2 connectors along the way which come apart and get dirty connecters
one near the fuel tank which may have been disturbed and another under the back seat
from memory a 71 super the starter motor wire is red with black trace bout 8 guage
the old spanner bridging trick on the solenoid is tricky on a bug due to lack of room and also orientation of the terminals
pod ·
if the battery terminals arent on tight enough you will get a clunk, as contact is broken ,have done this many a time ,because i`m to lazy to tighten terminals whilst only temporarily using the battery out of one beetle for the other👎😂
kombivw ·
Thats actually a very good point. And I never even tightened it after it was clunking. I did move them around and wedged a screwdriver to tighten and still never done more than clunked then. I am thinking I should have tightened them now, and I am all but finished pulling the starter out! Just one bolt, Yes that one.
kombivw ·
Ok reconnected starter motor and tightened terminals. I then checked that wire mentioned near petrol tank and its fine but still have just a clunk. Voltmeter reads 12 volt and battery is great. Is there another wire from near tank that I may have dislodged or is it just the one that follows from ignition to back seat then solenoid? Looking like starter must come out but will wait till after work tomorrow and enjoy last day of weekend.
helbus ·
Have you filled the tank with fuel? If so, sitting for a long time dry the carby may have a problem with a stuck float or perished needle and seat. It can cause fuel to drain into the engine if the tank level is higher than the carby. The engine fills with fuel, and being locked solid with petrol, it won't turn over. I have seen it once, and it is a long shot if you cant get any other electrical reason why the starter wont turn, and it seems the engine is locked. Can you turn the engine by hand by grabbing the pulleys on the back of the engine and turning. If you have a strong grip, you should be able to get a little bit of slow movement turning it.
kombivw ·
No its not that. There was no fuel at all in carbys and it did turn over before I removed petrol tank to replace hoses that had perished. Its easy to turn engine and I have done that quite a number of times hoping starter Teeth were engaged in flywheel. But sure there not. I can only think that there is a wire to solenoid and another to engage tooth that I have dislodged accidentally or that starter has packed up after one turn on ignition?
kombivw ·
C'mon brains trust! I want suggestions :-) Is it so quiet because you all agree the starter has to come out?
beetleboyjeff ·
Yep.
kombivw ·
taking starter out was actually not too bad! Now to test it
colonel mustard ·
Mate, give an update on what you have done, and what you havent...
If it was me, i would have done, so far
- new plugs
- changed the oil and cleaned (or got a new) strainer
- done all the fuel lines (yes the whole way) [and used genuine fuel line cause it lasts longer)
- new filters (one at front and some people have one at the rear also
- checked the carby - fuel wise. you could even take it out and rebuild it if it sucks
- conneted the battery (imagine you are doing it not to take it back out.... maybe buy a new one)
- points
- valves
-make sure your belt is tightish... not toooo tight and not work or brittle...
kombivw ·
That's a very thorough and great list to follow. Already made one mistake tho as I fitted the repco fuel lines without braiding. But hey they will do for now and I am more wiser on how to change later. Mine does have the two fuel filters and I have purchased both as well as points. Thanks for that and I will follow it point to point. I guess I just wanted to hear her turn over and got excited.
colonel mustard ·
I know that feeling. but your better off having it all done, and checking it a few times over. go to bed. have a look again the next day. Make sure you triple check your oil, it pays too have some in there 🙂 You will proabably have to change that fuel line within a year. dont stress on it though. Another tip, make sure the rear fuel filter is not between the fuel pump and carby, and is away from the disi. if its not in the engine bay, pake sure its well away from exhaust components. 🙂 you dont want no fire.
kombivw ·
Finished front end for now so started on engine proper. Drained oil (its practically clear!, but there was half a very thin washer between strainer and plate? Removed Disi cap, and points and rotor practically brand new! pulled one plug ( again looks brand new but black soot so will remove all and just clean and set. Am not even gonna touch valves or carb at this stage, just get starter fixed, New fuel lines and a battery and once strainer cleaned and reinstalled will try to start. What a great day for progress. I really reckon someone as bad as me has had a go at this and because of internittent rotation of starter gave up.
colonel mustard ·
hopefully you will be up and running soon. Make sure you dont test it in the wet... find a straight flat road and see if you need an allignment in your front end. 🙂 Wheel alignments are important!
kombivw ·
lol I got no brakes at all after front end mate. And sure that pipe is gonna seep anyway when i try to bleed them. No there wont be any run up and down road till that front end is done completely and a pro checks alignment etc . But what a great feeling to actually start a job and see it through. Thanks for your help Colonel really really really apreciated and others to.
colonel mustard ·
Welcome dude. Dont be affriad to ask people here... If you need help, Im sure there are some blokes in your part of the country that will come help you.
Brakes are important... If any of your rubber lines are weeping or anything, replace them, its not worth risking it, Ol' dubs have bad enough brakes as it is!
good luck with it!!
kombivw ·
Well back from hols and installed starter and engine turns over "Yipee"
It dont start but I think that must either be spark plugs, valves or points as shown in Colonels list. As I tried pouring fuel in carb and nothing so cant see it being fuel.
I have no idea at all of what the settings should be or for that matter do i have the help of someone else which for a novice is hard but with my idiot guide I hope to be able to crow soon.
kombivw ·
Turned over car (well D/ter did) and there is no spark to plug. Also removed distributor cap and there is no spark to gap between points. Am assuming this means either electrical wiring problem or points need adjusting. Any suggestions or other problems it may be?
Joel ·
David. first thing to check would be that the coil is getting power and that all the connections are on
a simple 12volt test light is all you need to do this
kombivw ·
A friend is coming later today with a multi meter so will check that for sure.(Dont understand electrics at all).
Another quick question. On the Positive terminal is also a red wire, what is this for?
It had broken off where it was soldered to terminal and tho I have connected it back on to terminal. I am wondering if it is not making a strong enough connection, and what it provides power for.
kombivw ·
Dammit I think i have found out why there is no spark after tracing wires. There is a kill switch! But now I dont have the starter turning over? It was untill I tried testing wires around coil. What could have caused this.
I am at a loss? I know starter and battery is fine and I have ignition lights but no clunk at all from starter. except when i short across the starter? All fuses are still good to.
kombivw ·
Well have no idea how but the red/yellow wire in bonnet had came off ! I was not even working there?
But anyway I reconnected wire, switched kill switch other way and beetle started first time.
It stopped once fuel ran out of carb, so it is def not getting fuel at the moment but that must be easy to fix surely!
what a great feeling.
Joel ·
i bet that was the sweetest sound you've heard for a while
re. you postive battery terminal there will be a big fat black wire running to the starter motor and the smaller red one
thats what powers everything cept the starter motor
kombivw ·
Yes it was Joel and whats more the engine actually does sound very sweet. No smoke, knocks or anything.
Cant work out why no petrol getting to Carb yet but cant be serious unless I kinked the actual fuel pipe when I fitted the new rubber lines. The pipe had been bent back in behind frame and I did pull it back to straight to put rubber line on. But cant see it being that tho. There is still about an inch of water on ground, so wont be checking them today.
Thanks re the other wire from battery terminal, I know have more electrics to fix tho as indicators for starters dont work.
Joel ·
if everythings hunky-doory and theres fuel in the tank if u pull the inlet hose off the fuel pump the fuel should run out via gravity
if not theres a blockage in the line somewhere
if so then the fuel pumps probably suss
way to check this is pull the hose off the carb and stick it in a glass jar and have someone crank the engine over
ive struck this a few times on engines that have been laid up for a while
the rubber diaphram in the fuel pump dries out and goes stiff
kombivw ·
No mate was my incompetence. I actually kinked the hose from tank when fitted new rubber hose. Removed tank yet again and straightened hose and fuel flowed forth. It starts first time everytime and runs like a new engine. You cant believe just how wrapped i am. I cant stop running it. I thought the Kombi was a fast starter but this is actually faster by .4 of a second! I am starting to feel that I am a moron like you other Beetle owners. I am actually getting used to how stupid to do anything is but how actually simple if you have patience. But i must remember this is not my car however adorable she is becoming :-)
colonel mustard ·
hahah. you spent the time on it, keep it for yourself!!!
How is everything coming togther??
kombivw ·
Really good Colonel. Have started on bodywork now, and do have a few electrical things to do. But will not be long before she is very tidy.
kombivw ·
Front needs pro alignment, Indicator lens needs changing and indicator electrics need minor work. But other than that she is ready for blue slip
colonel mustard ·
maybe you should wait a while before you give young mate the keys
Joel ·
ive got plenty of amber indicator lenses if you need a couple?
someone has done a good job widening those guards
cant even see the joint so was probably done professionally
that drivers side headlight lense is in cock-eyed too
they may chip you on it for the bluey as it would throw the beam pattern out
kombivw ·
Yes guards are fitted good. Re the headlight on drivers side. Thats actually cracked so am gonna fit a new (or good second hand one) It was actually in two halves and I have glued together to stop more weather to inside. Thats why I have not bothered to put it in properly. Re Indicator. If you do have a spare amber one that would be good. I am actually thinking it may look better with both orange anyway. Forgot to say that I have no horn and need a new steering wheel, but that again I am sure is minor electrical and I will try to get one at nationals. Colonel, My son is 20, He just looks young for his age lol
Joel ·
if you ever sell that porsche speedo and tacho can i have first dibs?
this is getting funny....i have headlight lenses
im gonna have to start writing a list lol
amber lense no worries
kombivw ·
First dibs is yours, though I am hoping not to have to break it up too soon lol. Headlight lens would probably be a bit fragile to post knowing Aus post.
colonel mustard ·
just bubble wrap it heaps, pack into a box and news paper stuff. Aus post arent that bad... are they????
Dude...just write joel a list.... I hear he has heaps of gear. 🙂
Joel ·
headlight lense should be fine to post
theyre actually pretty thick glass
ive posted a couple before no dramas
kombivw ·
Well let me know cost now lol. list is growing rapidly!
I have also got to get the little button in the hand brake, as its missing on mine. I bought a new rubber jacket to cover the handbrake linkages so looks better now but it dont fit well due to the two levers either side.
What are the two levers either side of handbrake for?
colonel mustard ·
they are for your heaterboxes. 🙂 left being on/off - right being temp. I took mine out cause I removed the heaterboxes, but if you want it to look orginal, leave em.
kombivw ·
Thanks colonel. I probably bought wrong jacket then? Anyway I will keep them and just modify the rubber cover.
colonel mustard ·
I havent done it with the levers there, but i think there is a little mark when you can cut a slit, undo the knobs on the levers and push them through. the handbrake boot is not hard, but it is fiddly. It will take a while. dont do it whilst your stressed! haha. 🙂 good luck with it.
Dude, post up a list of everything you need still, I may have some stuff to help you out. 🙂
kombivw ·
Not really much I need Colonel
am getting Headlight Glass, amber indicator lens and S from Joel ( Think that was all Joel yes?)
Need Standard horn as i have removed air horns
Steering wheel
Car wheel nut spanner
button for handbrake
New interior light
2 X Chrome ends for exhaust
For my Kombi I need a
Steering wheel and a petrol cap Left it unattended at petrol station for 5 minutes!
pretty sure thats all that is left
silver ·
Swap meet at the Nationals should help you, there is always heaps of stuff for every model
colonel mustard ·
or just go on the classicveedub website. he probably has most stuff you need. 🙂 Wish I was heading to the nationals. 🙁
Joel ·
kombivw wrote:Not really much I need Colonel
am getting Headlight Glass, amber indicator lens and S from Joel ( Think that was all Joel yes?)
Need Standard horn as i have removed air horns
Steering wheel
Car wheel nut spanner
button for handbrake
New interior light
2 X Chrome ends for exhaust
ive actually got all that
both a standard wheel and the same 3 spoke formuling france one you have now but try getting one closer to home first they're bit bulky to post
horn, you can get new from cheapskateauto, original wheelnut/sparkplug tool ive some but ill get back to you, handbrake button no worries, interior light ive found but its bit ratty, theyre cheap from george and same with the peashooters
colonel mustard ·
Dont get peashooters!! get a zoomie tube, they look sweeet 🙂 And you will need the asssembly clamps with new gaskets...
When you say wheel spanner... Do you mean a wheel brace?? Get one for like $20... anywhere auto really.
!9mm is the wheel nut size, GENERALLY. Check it at the shop if you can.
the original tool kits had a barrel socket thing the the hubcap tool fit in that one end did the wheel lugs and the other was for fanbelt and spark plugs
i have got some just might take some finding
oh yea the thing they dont tell u bout those zoomys which i personally think are the ugliest of additions is theyre great for adminstering nice burns to arms and legs when working on the engines