I could do with some advice... one of the cylinder head studs in my 1600 stripped its threads in the engine block.
Its the old style 10mm stud.
How do I go about reparing it? I have a tap and die set - but I've never used it and am a little hessitant to tap into my block until I fully understand all the ways I can avoid messing it up further!
Would it be a case of tapping a larger thread and using a stud insert? If so, what is the recommended outer diameter? Also would it be ok to put in an 8mm stud (I have spares from an old engine)? I guess there may be issues with uneven lenthening of mixed diameter studs?
I'd love to get all the studs replaced with case savers, but am running low on money, and at this stage all I really want is to get my engine back in the car!
If I can get the funds together to pay a professional to do the job, does anyone know of someone who might be willing to travel to my place to do the job (north brisbane)as I have no means of tansporting my engine.
Thanks.
matberry ·
Give me a call and I will step thru the options
VWCOOL ·
Is the engine disassembled?
brisbanefastback ·
engine is still complete, but out of the car.
Are Helicoils or time-sert kits appropriate for this kind of job?
Brian ·
buy another case
VWCOOL ·
if you just want to suck the remaining life from this engine, from some VW shops you can buy a stud with a horrible oversize screw thread that digs into the 'stripped' threads in the case and allows you to apply headtorque again. But it's the last time you will use the case...
pod ·
brisbanefastback wrote:engine is still complete, but out of the car.
Are Helicoils or time-sert kits appropriate for this kind of job?
Ditto to this question???
cb john ·
VWCOOL wrote:if you just want to suck the remaining life from this engine, from some VW shops you can buy a stud with a horrible oversize screw thread that digs into the 'stripped' threads in the case and allows you to apply headtorque again. But it's the last time you will use the case...
It is a repair stud, and it is self tapping...after use the case is still OK to be repaired with the case saver...
..at least that's what I was told...actually I'm running the engine with one repair stud...so far no problems...
68AutoBug ·
brisbanefastback wrote:I could do with some advice... one of the cylinder head studs in my 1600 stripped its threads in the engine block.
Its the old style 10mm stud.
How do I go about reparing it? I have a tap and die set - but I've never used it and am a little hessitant to tap into my block until I fully understand all the ways I can avoid messing it up further!
Would it be a case of tapping a larger thread and using a stud insert? If so, what is the recommended outer diameter? Also would it be ok to put in an 8mm stud (I have spares from an old engine)? I guess there may be issues with uneven lenthening of mixed diameter studs?
I'd love to get all the studs replaced with case savers, but am running low on money, and at this stage all I really want is to get my engine back in the car!
If I can get the funds together to pay a professional to do the job, does anyone know of someone who might be willing to travel to my place to do the job (north brisbane)as I have no means of tansporting my engine.
Thanks.
Case savers - helicoils - just replace the one thats damaged
that will keep you going... and not damage your case..
LEE
Thinker ·
helicoils are the way to go it will be stronger that it was to start with but it costs a little for a kit. all the instruction come in the kits and it will tell you what size to drill.
when i say stronger that is if you do everything by the instruction and you drill a perfect hole.
pod ·
cool i'll borrow the kit from work,as they supplied the helicoils as well👍
Thinker ·
they are dead easy to use just make sure you follow the instruction or it can get messy and when you tap into aluminium use kero it stops any thread tearing.
pod ·
i'm a fitter by trade but good advice for everybody else👍
ctefeh ·
Paul,
Funny this came up as I was reading this a few days ago :
Whaddayareckon? Belabouring the point and it doesn't matter too much what system you use or "best practice" for mag?
Regards
Sean
After reading some of the posts on this ilnk it makes you realise how misinformed some of the Merkins are!
The original mag alloy case machines ok without lubricant but softer aluminium requires a lubricant to prevent the metal from sticking to the cutting tools. Kero is ok but Tapmagic for aluminium is a purpose made lubricant.
As for the use of Heli-coils, ask Stan the Man what he uses in his rebuilds before installing the head studs.
Some of the Dubbers on here may have attended TAFE as an apprentice Fitter and Machinist where they did tests using Heli-coils. In the test with the M8 hole tapped directly in the aluminium bar, the set screw was torqued untill the thread stripped and noted. The hole was then Heli-coil inserted and the test repeated. The result was that the torque was increased without stripping untill the head sheared. Now who says inserts of the "spring" type aren't suitable!
Just my 2 cents worth.
If anyone west of Sydney wants a case drilled for inserts, give me a yell and by the way, yes it will be machine drilled and tapped!
DH
pod ·
1500S wrote:After reading some of the posts on shoptalkforums, it makes you realise that many Merkins haven't a clue when it comes to engineering!
The original mag alloy cases do machine ok without lubricant but kero and the Tapmagic (for aluminium) etc doesn't hurt. Softer aluminium definitely needs lubricant to stop the metal sticking to the cutting tool.
With regard to Heli-coil and similar repair inserts not being suitable, ask Stan the man what he used for many years (and maybe even now) as standard for all the head studs in his rebuilds.
According to Heli-coil, the use of the inserts in aluminium results in a stronger thread than just a tapped hole. Maybe there are some Dubbers here who have gone through the TAFE system as an apprentice Fitter and Machinist where Heli-coil provided test pieces of aluminium where the torque was increased untill it stripped the aluminium thread. The test was repeated and the result was the sheared head of the bolt. So who says that the Heli-coil "spring" type insert isn't strong enough.
Just 2 cents worth of something to think about!
AND, if there's anyone out west of Sydney who needs cases drilled for inserts, give me a yell.
point taken 1500S,might start with heli-coils as i have them already then if and when anything happens to them it wouldn't be hard to make and upgrade to a solid insert ,but this is all good discussion to the pros and cons of the 2 different systems👍