Picked her up today.
As well as an entire uteload of parts.
Let the fun commence!!
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
Aussieveedubbers 路 Members Rides
Alex the Beach Buggy
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/77899/alex-the-beach-buggy
Smiley 路
It's going to end up electric green in colour. 1600 twinport with twin carbs, Kombi box, two inch body lift, raised suspension, redo the cage and nerf bars. I can't wait to start stripping her for sandblasting.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
pod 路
looks like a good score,does it have previous rego history?
VDUBXTC 路
You didn't happen to get a pick of that green bug in the second pic did you?
Looks similar to a bug i had which was on carsales recently.
Looks similar to a bug i had which was on carsales recently.
Smiley 路
It does have pervious rego history. Came with a massive folder of paperwork I've been sorting though. There's a letter from the transport department approving the change to a buggy.
VDUBXTC - Green bug? You mean the navy one that can be seen in the background of the buggies rollcage hoop?
Smiley 馃檪
VDUBXTC - Green bug? You mean the navy one that can be seen in the background of the buggies rollcage hoop?
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
Made some good headway on the buggy on Sunday afternoon.
Brought all the spare parts and junk down from up the top that came with it and stacked it all in the carport ready to be sorted this week.
Rolled the buggy down the hill and began disassembly.
Seats, rollcage and, bonnet and body were all lifted off as none of these parts were bolted down.
Pulled the engine, then removed the rear body support frame and rear shocks.
Removed all the rear brake hoses and disconnected the handbrake and removed the lever. Undid gearbox mounts and spring plate bolts and pulled out the entire rear end, everything between the rear wheels.
Four bolts and two brake lines later and the frontend was separated.
Then proceeded to remove all the little things that were left. Remaining brake lines, master cylinder, pedal assembly, clutch and accelerator cables, gearstick and shifter rod, gearbox mount.
There was a bit of water in the tunnel cause it rained Saturday night plus heaps of dirt and scale and gunk. So I stood the pan on its end and flushed the tunnel out with a hose for a while, in both directions and with the pan both ways up.
Floorpan is now on stands waiting to go to blasters on Thursday, was meant to go tomorrow but the trailer I borrowed has no lights working so I'll have to fix that tomorrow afternoon.
I also spent about 4 hours sorting through all the parts last night, separated them into junk to throw away, stuff for the buggy and other parts to box and store. I also cut the nerf bars from the floorpan yesterday afternoon.
I am looking to buy my first welder this week so I can begin mods to the floorpan once I get it back from blasters.
Thanks for reading.
Smiley 馃檪
Brought all the spare parts and junk down from up the top that came with it and stacked it all in the carport ready to be sorted this week.
Rolled the buggy down the hill and began disassembly.
Seats, rollcage and, bonnet and body were all lifted off as none of these parts were bolted down.
Pulled the engine, then removed the rear body support frame and rear shocks.
Removed all the rear brake hoses and disconnected the handbrake and removed the lever. Undid gearbox mounts and spring plate bolts and pulled out the entire rear end, everything between the rear wheels.
Four bolts and two brake lines later and the frontend was separated.
Then proceeded to remove all the little things that were left. Remaining brake lines, master cylinder, pedal assembly, clutch and accelerator cables, gearstick and shifter rod, gearbox mount.
There was a bit of water in the tunnel cause it rained Saturday night plus heaps of dirt and scale and gunk. So I stood the pan on its end and flushed the tunnel out with a hose for a while, in both directions and with the pan both ways up.
Floorpan is now on stands waiting to go to blasters on Thursday, was meant to go tomorrow but the trailer I borrowed has no lights working so I'll have to fix that tomorrow afternoon.
I also spent about 4 hours sorting through all the parts last night, separated them into junk to throw away, stuff for the buggy and other parts to box and store. I also cut the nerf bars from the floorpan yesterday afternoon.
I am looking to buy my first welder this week so I can begin mods to the floorpan once I get it back from blasters.
Thanks for reading.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
Some before pictures of the buggy assembled before strip down began.
Smiley 路
On the trailer and ready to head to sandblasters tomorrow. Note the powerhouse tow vehicle. 馃槀
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
BlueV2 路
Looks like a nice project. What mods do you have planned for the chassis ?
Smiley 路
Depending on the condition of the floorhalves it might be getting two new checkerplate ones. Welded 2" lift kit, IRS conversion on the back, Kombi gearbox, framehead clearance for the long tie rod end. And seam weld all the spot welded joins.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
Lovebuggy 路
If you are going to do new checkerplate floors, then you will want a 3 inch c hannel lift kit.
You may also want to consider a clutch access hole and moving the gearstick back 3 inches.
You may also want to consider a clutch access hole and moving the gearstick back 3 inches.
Smiley 路
Why would you need to move the gearstick back?
It's not that hard to reach is it?
And what do you mean when you say 3 inch channel?
Can you put up a description? Or pictures would be great. Could someone please let me know if I have to get a welded 2 inch lift kit engineer approved? Or do I chalk it down to floorpan stiffening as per the buggy manufacturers recommendations?
Smiley 馃檪
It's not that hard to reach is it?
And what do you mean when you say 3 inch channel?
Can you put up a description? Or pictures would be great. Could someone please let me know if I have to get a welded 2 inch lift kit engineer approved? Or do I chalk it down to floorpan stiffening as per the buggy manufacturers recommendations?
Smiley 馃檪
Lovebuggy 路
On the K&L pans, lots of people like to move it back 3 inchs as it feels more comfortable to reach.
You don't have to do it, but when you talk to people that hadn't, they wish they had.
If you are going to do new checker plate floors, you can but weld them up to the c Channel. This has the added advantage of allowing all your bolts to remain inside the car away from the elements.
You use a 3 inch Channel in this scenario which is equivalent to putting a 2inch lift on to your standard pan that needs to be bolted down.
I don't think you need to get an engineer report for stiffening and reinforcing the pan (which is what you will be doing).
This work was done by CVD.
Another shot with a Galv coat.
For heaps of info and ideas on building buggies - WWW.MANXCLUB.ORG
You don't have to do it, but when you talk to people that hadn't, they wish they had.
If you are going to do new checker plate floors, you can but weld them up to the c Channel. This has the added advantage of allowing all your bolts to remain inside the car away from the elements.
You use a 3 inch Channel in this scenario which is equivalent to putting a 2inch lift on to your standard pan that needs to be bolted down.
I don't think you need to get an engineer report for stiffening and reinforcing the pan (which is what you will be doing).
This work was done by CVD.
Another shot with a Galv coat.
For heaps of info and ideas on building buggies - WWW.MANXCLUB.ORG
Smiley 路
Time for an update, I've been a bit slack getting photos up over the last few days. I managed to get the floorpan on the trailer Wednesday night and up to the sandblasters at work Thursday morning. And they exceeded all my expectations by having it done before lunch!! I though I was going to have to wait till next week.
So I got the pan home Thursday night and got it coated in fish oil to keep the gremlins at bay.
A few things I noticed, the major one is that whoever did the pan last went crazy with silicone sealer on every seam, weld, hole and everywhere. Sandblasting couldn't remove all of this so I been doing a bit with a scraper and wheel-wheel on the 4" over the last two days.
It has one large rust hole in one of the floorhalves as well as heaps of other holes that must have been for seat mounts, seat belts, cage and other stuff.
I'm still not sure whether to replace the floorhalves or repair the existing ones. They are flat steel, not checkerplate, so has gotten a bit wavy. Plus having it stripped back this far I think I should probably build it right the first time. Dad seems to think that the old ones are good enough, but I think I should go the whole hog now so I don't have annoying little things nagging at me down the track.
Feel free to post your thoughts after you have a look at the pictures.
Smiley 馃檪
So I got the pan home Thursday night and got it coated in fish oil to keep the gremlins at bay.
A few things I noticed, the major one is that whoever did the pan last went crazy with silicone sealer on every seam, weld, hole and everywhere. Sandblasting couldn't remove all of this so I been doing a bit with a scraper and wheel-wheel on the 4" over the last two days.
It has one large rust hole in one of the floorhalves as well as heaps of other holes that must have been for seat mounts, seat belts, cage and other stuff.
I'm still not sure whether to replace the floorhalves or repair the existing ones. They are flat steel, not checkerplate, so has gotten a bit wavy. Plus having it stripped back this far I think I should probably build it right the first time. Dad seems to think that the old ones are good enough, but I think I should go the whole hog now so I don't have annoying little things nagging at me down the track.
Feel free to post your thoughts after you have a look at the pictures.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
The bare pan getting back to my place from the blasters.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
What wall thickness C-channel did you use? Is it strong enough? You don't need to put additional bracing anywhere else?
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
Lovebuggy 路
Get rid of those box section pieces underneath. They will just hit stuff if you are offroading. Or if you do keep them - angle them so they don't catch on things and weld some plate on the ends to seal them.
If you remove the box sections and the pans aren't thick enough to support your weight, I would replace them with some 2mm checker plate. If they are, then they will probably be fine once you fix the rust and plug the holes. Then you can just do your 2inch lift kit.
Make sure you weld/seal up your outside rails at the back, as they will be a major rust spot.
The other thing to consider is your bolt and nuts will hang below the floor pan and could be damaged. You may need to push the bolt up from the bottom and put the nut on from the top, so you will be able to undo them if you ever need to. You will also need to ensure they seal well, so no moisture gets up into the side rail.
Also you could add extra gussets from the rear torsion tubes to the pan, but be aware of how your engine cage attaches that you won't impede it.
If you remove the box sections and the pans aren't thick enough to support your weight, I would replace them with some 2mm checker plate. If they are, then they will probably be fine once you fix the rust and plug the holes. Then you can just do your 2inch lift kit.
Make sure you weld/seal up your outside rails at the back, as they will be a major rust spot.
The other thing to consider is your bolt and nuts will hang below the floor pan and could be damaged. You may need to push the bolt up from the bottom and put the nut on from the top, so you will be able to undo them if you ever need to. You will also need to ensure they seal well, so no moisture gets up into the side rail.
Also you could add extra gussets from the rear torsion tubes to the pan, but be aware of how your engine cage attaches that you won't impede it.
Smiley 路
It's hard to see in the pictures but both pan halves are slightly rippled, which is why I'm leaning towards new checkerplate floorpans. And what thickness C-channel?
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
On another note, does anyone know what kind of buggy mine is? I don't think I've seen one like this before. If you need pictures of specific areas let me know and I'll throw them up.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
OZ Towdster 路
Smiley the C channel we use is 5mm and as stated by Lovebuggy is 75mm high, although as your body is a J&S you will also benefit greatly from lifting the body to 100mm body lift as they are reknown for having quite a low front guard and as such without the 75mm lift you will be forever trying to reduce the front wheels from hitting the inside of the guards .
I personally would probabley lean towards redoing the floors now as from the photos i would say you have quite a lot of area's which have been modified by the previos owner and are lapped joints etc ( ie the box over the bottom of the floor ), all of which your sandblasting won't of been able to get at and are more than likley already rusty.
Just my two bobs worth but as you will quickly learn in the buggy world , build it well once and it will never let you down .
I personally would probabley lean towards redoing the floors now as from the photos i would say you have quite a lot of area's which have been modified by the previos owner and are lapped joints etc ( ie the box over the bottom of the floor ), all of which your sandblasting won't of been able to get at and are more than likley already rusty.
Just my two bobs worth but as you will quickly learn in the buggy world , build it well once and it will never let you down .
OZ Towdster 路
As noted in my post above your body is a J & S and if you have the side pods these should have raised lettering just foward of the rear end in a diamond shaped bordersmileyman3000 wrote:On another note, does anyone know what kind of buggy mine is? I don't think I've seen one like this before. If you need pictures of specific areas let me know and I'll throw them up.
Smiley
MR930 路
Theres one on ebay the same. Low nose J&S. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320404119215&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT
Smiley 路
I have no sidepods. But that doesn't really bother me.
I've been thinking quite a bit about it over the last few days and I've decided to go the whole hog now so I don't have to worry about things later on.
- Kombi gearbox mounts and IRS conversion rear
- new 2mm checker plate floorhalves
- move gearstick back 3"
- add clutch access hole
- seam weld entire pan
- weld seat mounts between the lift kit and tunnel
- frame head clearance for long tie rod
- welded lift kit : would you guys recommend C-channel or Box section? and 3" or 4" if I understand what you were saying above?
Is there anything that I've missed?
Also, do people have links to tech/how to articles on how to do a lot of these things? I'm confident and willing to do them myself, I just really don't want to stuff anything up.
More specifically clearancing the framehead, moving the gearstick and the clutch hole. But info on everything would be good. You can never have to much information.
Thanks to everyone so far for their input.
Smiley 馃檪
I've been thinking quite a bit about it over the last few days and I've decided to go the whole hog now so I don't have to worry about things later on.
- Kombi gearbox mounts and IRS conversion rear
- new 2mm checker plate floorhalves
- move gearstick back 3"
- add clutch access hole
- seam weld entire pan
- weld seat mounts between the lift kit and tunnel
- frame head clearance for long tie rod
- welded lift kit : would you guys recommend C-channel or Box section? and 3" or 4" if I understand what you were saying above?
Is there anything that I've missed?
Also, do people have links to tech/how to articles on how to do a lot of these things? I'm confident and willing to do them myself, I just really don't want to stuff anything up.
More specifically clearancing the framehead, moving the gearstick and the clutch hole. But info on everything would be good. You can never have to much information.
Thanks to everyone so far for their input.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
Also, when you say it's a J&S Buggy, is there somewhere I can get more info on it? Eg, production numbers, where it was produced, etc.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
The front end before I began stripping it down.
The beam mounted on the engine stand.
All the yellow bits gone. Shocks, steering damper and sway bar removed.
All the brakes and hubs removed.
This is as far as I managed to get.
Could someone please tell me how the hell do you remove the tie rods?
I tried hitting them out with a soft hammer but they didn't budge one bit. Are they pressed in? Or is there some sort of circlip or addition to the nut that holds them down?
Smiley 馃檪
The beam mounted on the engine stand.
All the yellow bits gone. Shocks, steering damper and sway bar removed.
All the brakes and hubs removed.
This is as far as I managed to get.
Could someone please tell me how the hell do you remove the tie rods?
I tried hitting them out with a soft hammer but they didn't budge one bit. Are they pressed in? Or is there some sort of circlip or addition to the nut that holds them down?
Smiley 馃檪
chunks54 路
They aren't pressed in but are an interference fit - when you nip up the nuts in kind of presses them in place. But you will get them out with a hammer if you don't have a splitter (a tool that looks like a tuning fork).
First off though, don't hit the threaded sections with a hammer without putting the nuts back on to protect those threads! You'll have a mare getting the nuts back on otherwise....
Once you've put them back on to protect the threads, try hitting the side of the round section of the joint - they should pop out after a good few hits.
Impact engineering all the way!
First off though, don't hit the threaded sections with a hammer without putting the nuts back on to protect those threads! You'll have a mare getting the nuts back on otherwise....
Once you've put them back on to protect the threads, try hitting the side of the round section of the joint - they should pop out after a good few hits.
Impact engineering all the way!
Lovebuggy 路
Buy a $40 ball joint/tie-rod popping tool from your local auto supplier. It will make life easier in the future and you wont risk damaging threads or seals by mis aimed blows.
Smiley 路
It's been quite a while since I last updated this post so i thought I had better get round to it. I've been spending my time slowly working on the floorpan and sorting it out. I've bought a welder which I have yet to try out. And got some checkerplate and C-channel to repair the floorpan with.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
The first picture shows the pan before I started cutting. and the next two and the bare tunnel with both halves cut off.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
I chiseled the breast plate off from underneath the bottom of the framehead at the front of the car. The metal on the bottom of the tunnel was quite rusted underneath so I decided to cut this piece out and replace it with new metal. I can see two lines inside the tunnel heading to the front of the car.
One is the old fuel line and the other appears to be a brake line? It exits on the RHS right next to the master cylinder. Can anyone confirm that this is a brake line? I thought all beetles had them run past the pedal assembly and up the inside of the car next to the tunnel on the drivers side. When I stripped the pan down the rear brake lind was run along the side of the tunnel inside the car, but you could tell it wasn't a factory line.
On another note, if I have the floorpan number will I be able to tell what year the car was? Or do you need the body number for that?
Smiley 馃檪
One is the old fuel line and the other appears to be a brake line? It exits on the RHS right next to the master cylinder. Can anyone confirm that this is a brake line? I thought all beetles had them run past the pedal assembly and up the inside of the car next to the tunnel on the drivers side. When I stripped the pan down the rear brake lind was run along the side of the tunnel inside the car, but you could tell it wasn't a factory line.
On another note, if I have the floorpan number will I be able to tell what year the car was? Or do you need the body number for that?
Smiley 馃檪
DubCrazy 路
having fun there!
the numbers will be on the floorpan right by the inspection plate to get at the gearbox linkage that will tell u the year of the car
steff........
the numbers will be on the floorpan right by the inspection plate to get at the gearbox linkage that will tell u the year of the car
steff........
Smiley 路
Measured and marked out my clutch access hole, then cut the piece out. I still need to weld flat bar around the sides to give the tunnel back its strength and prevent cracking.
I also cut the last little corner piece of the floorpan that was still on there off. All I have left now is the rear outriggers where the body bolts down. I'm tossing up whether to keep these and give them a tidy up, or cut them off and make new ones.
Smiley 馃檪
I also cut the last little corner piece of the floorpan that was still on there off. All I have left now is the rear outriggers where the body bolts down. I'm tossing up whether to keep these and give them a tidy up, or cut them off and make new ones.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
At this point I decided to drop the bottom off the tunnel to have a look at what the inside of the tunnel and all the lines are like. I had to make another cut across the back with the grinder, the used a cold chisel to break all the factory spot welds along the sides. Then the plate just lifted off.
As you can see in the photo there was a fair amount of rust scale lying in the tunnel. Most of the is from the base plate I removed. The tunnel itself is very solid. I was originally going to clean up and reuse the base plate, but I've changed my mind again after seeing its condition. So it's going to the scrap heap.
A couple more shots of inside the tunnel
Smiley 馃檪
As you can see in the photo there was a fair amount of rust scale lying in the tunnel. Most of the is from the base plate I removed. The tunnel itself is very solid. I was originally going to clean up and reuse the base plate, but I've changed my mind again after seeing its condition. So it's going to the scrap heap.
A couple more shots of inside the tunnel
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
The two tubes lowest in the first picture are the old heater cable tubes which come out of the tunnel on the RHS on the gearstick. Neither end is connected so I cut them out to tidy things up.
At the back end of the car where the heater cables exit the frame horns I ground what was left of them off, a previous owner had hammered them flat. I'll have to fill the hole in the side of the tunnel and one on each frame horn once I've gotten all the old tube out.
Smiley 馃檪
At the back end of the car where the heater cables exit the frame horns I ground what was left of them off, a previous owner had hammered them flat. I'll have to fill the hole in the side of the tunnel and one on each frame horn once I've gotten all the old tube out.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
Yeah I know where the number is, and I know what it is.
I committed it to memory just after I bought the car. It's 1178123. How do I tell what year it is from that?
Smiley 馃檪
I committed it to memory just after I bought the car. It's 1178123. How do I tell what year it is from that?
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
Did a bit more on the buggy this afternoon. I picked up a Superbug as a doner car a few weeks ago. I spent most of this afternoon cutting CV bolts that wouldn't come undone. I'll probably finish pulling the rear suspension out at some stage this week. I've also got the steering column and switchgear and wiper motor that I'm swapping into the buggy.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
bajachris88 路
Found this and thought of ya :P
Will save ALOT of work if you can nab it, and cheap as! + says for J&S:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/50mm-ONE-PIECE-LIFT-KIT-FOR-VW-MANX-BUGGY-MADE-FROM-RHS_W0QQitemZ190335117697QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2c50db6981&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
brush down and paint, then bolt of weld on. and ur set!
BTW, great work! Your certainly getting stuck in very well!
This lift kit, if a its a neat/tidy one, would be a good template for you to cut your checkerplate flooring too. And you could weld the flooring to the lift kit before fitting on the chassis. (if it makes it easier...)
Will save ALOT of work if you can nab it, and cheap as! + says for J&S:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/50mm-ONE-PIECE-LIFT-KIT-FOR-VW-MANX-BUGGY-MADE-FROM-RHS_W0QQitemZ190335117697QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2c50db6981&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
brush down and paint, then bolt of weld on. and ur set!
BTW, great work! Your certainly getting stuck in very well!
This lift kit, if a its a neat/tidy one, would be a good template for you to cut your checkerplate flooring too. And you could weld the flooring to the lift kit before fitting on the chassis. (if it makes it easier...)
Smiley 路
Thanks for the thought Chris. But I've already bought 100mm C-channel because I'm doing a 3" welded bodylift. I would have definitely looked into buying this if I wasn't making one myself.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
Before and after shots of what I got done this afternoon. It's not much but every little bit helps.
I put the pan up on blocks and removed the wheels and drums. Then I undid the spring plate to diagonal arm bolts and removed the large pivot box bolt. I brought them down to the house so dad has two more things to trip over. Plus I wanted to start seeing how easy it will be to swap wide five drums on.
All I have to do now is pull the spring plates and rear torsion bars out of the super pan, then I'm going to begin fabricating jigs to install the heavy duty pivot boxes.
Smiley 馃檪
I put the pan up on blocks and removed the wheels and drums. Then I undid the spring plate to diagonal arm bolts and removed the large pivot box bolt. I brought them down to the house so dad has two more things to trip over. Plus I wanted to start seeing how easy it will be to swap wide five drums on.
All I have to do now is pull the spring plates and rear torsion bars out of the super pan, then I'm going to begin fabricating jigs to install the heavy duty pivot boxes.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
Cut a little bit more off the bottom of the pan today. It was rusted through in a few spots plus I want to run my new sheet further back so it had to go.
A picture of the piece removed, and looking back towards the frame horns.
While I was in there I finished removing the remains of the heater cable tubes, they were fairly rusted through. And while I was going I removed the handbrake cable tubes to check them too. As the second photo depicts, I'll be investing in new ones.
I then removed the remaining piece of fuel line, the clutch tube, and the brake tube. Of these the clutch tube is the only one in reasonable condition, and it's still a little questionable.
So all I have left in there now is an accelerator cable tube. Gives me a nice blank canvas to work with.
Can anyone recommend where to buy new handbrake and clutch cable tubes from?
A few pictures showing the now empty tunnel.
Smiley 馃檪
A picture of the piece removed, and looking back towards the frame horns.
While I was in there I finished removing the remains of the heater cable tubes, they were fairly rusted through. And while I was going I removed the handbrake cable tubes to check them too. As the second photo depicts, I'll be investing in new ones.
I then removed the remaining piece of fuel line, the clutch tube, and the brake tube. Of these the clutch tube is the only one in reasonable condition, and it's still a little questionable.
So all I have left in there now is an accelerator cable tube. Gives me a nice blank canvas to work with.
Can anyone recommend where to buy new handbrake and clutch cable tubes from?
A few pictures showing the now empty tunnel.
Smiley 馃檪
Scarab 路
Hey Smiley....this is crackin' project!!
I have read this thread twice tonight because I love seeing how far people go with their cars, and the effort involved....love it!
This is gonna be a cool ride when its done, nice work mate! 馃憤
I have read this thread twice tonight because I love seeing how far people go with their cars, and the effort involved....love it!
This is gonna be a cool ride when its done, nice work mate! 馃憤
Smiley 路
Thanks for your comments Scarab. It's slow going so far, I haven't really been able to hook in too much. But next week once I get back from Warwick it'll be full steam ahead.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
I also looked up the floorpan number last night on The Samba, turns out I have an August 1956 floorpan.
So it's an oval buggy!! LOL
I was wondering why the gearbox mount had been cut off and a new one welded on. The original splitcase front transmission mount has been gas axed off and a 60's swinger one added on. And they've done a fairly messy job of both. I'll put a picture or two up over the weekend. I definitely have to clean it up as I don't want it breaking off when I'm hitting the dirt hard somewhere out bush.
Smiley 馃檪
So it's an oval buggy!! LOL
I was wondering why the gearbox mount had been cut off and a new one welded on. The original splitcase front transmission mount has been gas axed off and a 60's swinger one added on. And they've done a fairly messy job of both. I'll put a picture or two up over the weekend. I definitely have to clean it up as I don't want it breaking off when I'm hitting the dirt hard somewhere out bush.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
Just a quick update.
On Friday night we sat the body on the new floor and aligned it all so I could mark where to cut. I marked it slightly over sized the entire way around cause it's easier to grind it down later than add more on.
The next picture shows it cut, now I just have to measure and start making the lift kit.
Smiley 馃檪
On Friday night we sat the body on the new floor and aligned it all so I could mark where to cut. I marked it slightly over sized the entire way around cause it's easier to grind it down later than add more on.
The next picture shows it cut, now I just have to measure and start making the lift kit.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
I had the day off work so I decided to drag the floorpan into the carport and attack with the welder and grinder. Plans for the day - move the gearstick back and weld up some holes and other things.
I decided to go with moving it 4" back, so I measured out two pieces on the tunnel to cut. The piece with the gearstick hole in it and a 4" long piece behind it. Then I just had to cut and swap them around and weld them back in place.
Both pieces marked out.
Front section with the gearstick hole cut out.
Both pieces removed. You have to be extra carful when you're making the cuts on the LHS of the tunnel to make sure you don't slice the accelerator cable tube at the same time.
I gave all the edges a clean up and made sure that they fitted as best that they could. Then tacked them into place so I could give them a tweak with the hammer where required. Then I fully welded the pieces back into their new spots.
Please excuse the shoddyness of my welding, it's been over a year since I've picked one up.
I had to make up a small plate to fill the hole where the heater control knob used to be on the RHS of the tunnel. After I welded the plate in I built up on top of it with weld then ground this back to try and match the curve of the tunnel as best I could.
While I had the welder and grinder fired up I filled the holes where the heater control cables used to come out on either side of the frame horns. Then ground the welds down and smoothed them off.
All that was left to do was grind the welds down flush and smooth them off with the flapper wheel. I hope to do a tech article up on moving the gearstick hole back when I have some spare time.
I think it almost looks factory, and will be much easier to reach.
Smiley 馃檪
I decided to go with moving it 4" back, so I measured out two pieces on the tunnel to cut. The piece with the gearstick hole in it and a 4" long piece behind it. Then I just had to cut and swap them around and weld them back in place.
Both pieces marked out.
Front section with the gearstick hole cut out.
Both pieces removed. You have to be extra carful when you're making the cuts on the LHS of the tunnel to make sure you don't slice the accelerator cable tube at the same time.
I gave all the edges a clean up and made sure that they fitted as best that they could. Then tacked them into place so I could give them a tweak with the hammer where required. Then I fully welded the pieces back into their new spots.
Please excuse the shoddyness of my welding, it's been over a year since I've picked one up.
I had to make up a small plate to fill the hole where the heater control knob used to be on the RHS of the tunnel. After I welded the plate in I built up on top of it with weld then ground this back to try and match the curve of the tunnel as best I could.
While I had the welder and grinder fired up I filled the holes where the heater control cables used to come out on either side of the frame horns. Then ground the welds down and smoothed them off.
All that was left to do was grind the welds down flush and smooth them off with the flapper wheel. I hope to do a tech article up on moving the gearstick hole back when I have some spare time.
I think it almost looks factory, and will be much easier to reach.
Smiley 馃檪
bajachris88 路
bloody brilliant!
what welder you got?
what welder you got?
Smiley 路
It's a 175AMP WIA, it's very nice. I can't weld for shit but its mystical, magical powers make at least half my welds decent.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
So I got in and did a little bit more this afternoon, every bit helps!
These pictures show before and after shots of the handbrake bracket, I decided that spot welds weren't good enough and ran some beads all the way around. Then smoothed the welds into the tunnel so it's all one piece. Came up rather nice.
Smiley 馃檪
These pictures show before and after shots of the handbrake bracket, I decided that spot welds weren't good enough and ran some beads all the way around. Then smoothed the welds into the tunnel so it's all one piece. Came up rather nice.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
002 5-rib Kombi gearbox, weapon of choice for changing gears in my buggy. It needs a few minor mods to get it to fit in the Beetle floorpan.
In order for the gearbox strap that came with the mounting kit I bought to fit, some of the metal needs to be ground into a more rounded shape. It's hard to see the lumps in this picture because of the mound of sludge built up against it.
Next pictures shows the lumps ground down and smoothed. And the last one is the front gearbox strap sitting in place.
Smiley 馃檪
In order for the gearbox strap that came with the mounting kit I bought to fit, some of the metal needs to be ground into a more rounded shape. It's hard to see the lumps in this picture because of the mound of sludge built up against it.
Next pictures shows the lumps ground down and smoothed. And the last one is the front gearbox strap sitting in place.
Smiley 馃檪
Scarab 路
Wow!!! looking good mate!!馃憤
I just read through your thread AGAIN!!......and I have a small question for you, if you dont mind.
Being quite new to VW's, I am intrigued about the clutch hole that you have put in the tunnel...what is the go with that??? It no-where near the clutch is it?....or is it 馃槀 it appears to be at the front of the tunnel near the clutch pedal....am I right?
I have seen this on a few threads on various sites. Where is it actually located, and what is the purpose of it?
Sorry to be so thick, but anything new I can learn is surely a good thing! 馃槀
Cheers mate....and keep cracking on with that buggy!!
I just read through your thread AGAIN!!......and I have a small question for you, if you dont mind.
Being quite new to VW's, I am intrigued about the clutch hole that you have put in the tunnel...what is the go with that??? It no-where near the clutch is it?....or is it 馃槀 it appears to be at the front of the tunnel near the clutch pedal....am I right?
I have seen this on a few threads on various sites. Where is it actually located, and what is the purpose of it?
Sorry to be so thick, but anything new I can learn is surely a good thing! 馃槀
Cheers mate....and keep cracking on with that buggy!!
Smiley 路
It is at the front, on top of the tunnel right next to the pedal assembly. You put one in there so that when you snap a clutch cable it's easy enough to change a new one in without having the remove the entire pedal assembly and swear a lot.
So if you're caning up the beach and blow a clutch cable you can swap your spare in easily enough.
I think mine has become quite useless now because I've decided to go to a hydraulic clutch to simplify (and complicate) things.
Lucky I still have the piece I cut out. I might weld it back in or just leave the hole there as an access panel.
By the way, what I've done there to mine isn't the completed clutch access hole. You have to weld pieces of flat bar around the outside to give the tunnel back it's strength, otherwise you'll end up with cracking or a bent tunnel. Especially if you're doing a bit of dune jumping and landing hard.
Smiley 馃檪
So if you're caning up the beach and blow a clutch cable you can swap your spare in easily enough.
I think mine has become quite useless now because I've decided to go to a hydraulic clutch to simplify (and complicate) things.
Lucky I still have the piece I cut out. I might weld it back in or just leave the hole there as an access panel.
By the way, what I've done there to mine isn't the completed clutch access hole. You have to weld pieces of flat bar around the outside to give the tunnel back it's strength, otherwise you'll end up with cracking or a bent tunnel. Especially if you're doing a bit of dune jumping and landing hard.
Smiley 馃檪
Scarab 路
oh OK....thanks for the explanation 馃榿 much appreciated!
BlueV2 路
Hi Smileyman,
Great thread..well done.....your chassis is coming along really well.
Just while you are welding around the handbrake you might want to weld some 3mm flat bar around the handbrake hole. Even with a strengthened floor pan on my last buggy it still cracked the tunnel downwards from the handbrake hole. Here is a not so good pic of what I did, but you should get the idea. It is much easier to do now, than when the buggy is built 馃檪
I also strengthened the handbrake pin holder as the holes had been elongated so the pin did not fit tight.
Great thread..well done.....your chassis is coming along really well.
Just while you are welding around the handbrake you might want to weld some 3mm flat bar around the handbrake hole. Even with a strengthened floor pan on my last buggy it still cracked the tunnel downwards from the handbrake hole. Here is a not so good pic of what I did, but you should get the idea. It is much easier to do now, than when the buggy is built 馃檪
I also strengthened the handbrake pin holder as the holes had been elongated so the pin did not fit tight.
Smiley 路
Will do! I was also planning on welding some plates to the inside of where the tunnel has been shortened, to help strengthen against possible breakages.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
Scarab 路
Hey Smiley....any updates on Alex the Beach Buggy??
Smiley 路
Unfortunately no, I'm in Brisbane the next three weeks for TAFE so won't be able to do anything. 馃檨
Plus when I get back she might be on the back burner for a few weeks while a throw together a new Baja to replace the one I wrote off. But I'm keen to get Alyce my new Baja done to stop the buggy project from stagnating too long. So all I'm doing at this stage is researching hydraulic clutches and saving money.
Thanks for your encouragement Paul, I would love to come see you Notch next time I'm in SA visiting friends that live down that way.
Smiley 馃檪
PS I'm so bored in the afternoon cause I have no cars to work on 馃槧
Plus when I get back she might be on the back burner for a few weeks while a throw together a new Baja to replace the one I wrote off. But I'm keen to get Alyce my new Baja done to stop the buggy project from stagnating too long. So all I'm doing at this stage is researching hydraulic clutches and saving money.
Thanks for your encouragement Paul, I would love to come see you Notch next time I'm in SA visiting friends that live down that way.
Smiley 馃檪
PS I'm so bored in the afternoon cause I have no cars to work on 馃槧
Scarab 路
so what are you studying at TAFE mate?.......structural engineering or something similar to help with your projects 馃槀
so was the rollover your daily driver or just a weekend fun car? Its nice that you have a replacement all lined up already though, well done. Keep cracking on with it coz I want to see more of Alex the Beach Buggy!!.....some build ups on the Baja mightn't be a bad idea for another thread too! 馃槀
do you get down to SA very often mate? would be good to dcatch up next time you do.
All the best,
Paul
so was the rollover your daily driver or just a weekend fun car? Its nice that you have a replacement all lined up already though, well done. Keep cracking on with it coz I want to see more of Alex the Beach Buggy!!.....some build ups on the Baja mightn't be a bad idea for another thread too! 馃槀
do you get down to SA very often mate? would be good to dcatch up next time you do.
All the best,
Paul
Smiley 路
Scarab wrote:so what are you studying at TAFE mate?.......structural engineering or something similar to help with your projects 馃槀
I wish!! I'm a second year diesel fitter apprentice.
Yeah, the Baja was my daily, I did about 500kms in it a week, it was the most reliable car in the world! So it's a same she's dead now.
I was down in Adeliade April this year and was thinking of maybe heading down at a similar time next year or dropping in on the way to Portland drags.
Smiley 馃檪
Scarab 路
Diesel Fitter eh???.....sounds familiar, i am a Diesel Fitter by trade, specializing in Off Road Heavy Industrial Plant (Earthmovers etc.)......although not working as one anymore.
I now sell diesel engine parts rather than fit diesel engine parts! 馃槀 Although with the mining boom around the place I could be making a killing if I was still on the tools 馃槩
Shame about the Baja, seeing as it was so reliable, but I am sure you will make a reliable one out of the new one too.
Let me know if you do end up coming down, we'll catch up and talk diesel 馃槀 ....... 馃お sorry, make that VW's!!
I now sell diesel engine parts rather than fit diesel engine parts! 馃槀 Although with the mining boom around the place I could be making a killing if I was still on the tools 馃槩
Shame about the Baja, seeing as it was so reliable, but I am sure you will make a reliable one out of the new one too.
Let me know if you do end up coming down, we'll catch up and talk diesel 馃槀 ....... 馃お sorry, make that VW's!!
Smiley 路
we'll catch up and talk diesel 馃槀 ....... 馃お sorry, make that VW's!!
Make that both!! I work for Hastings Deering, they are the CAT dealer in Queensland. So I've had a bit of 'yellow injection' 馃槀
Smiley 馃檪
Scarab 路
Hmmmm....Cat yellow would be an interesting colour on a buggy don't ya think?? 馃槀
Smiley 路
I could probably get that done for free at work 馃槀, not that I'd want to. I think I'll stick with green.
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 路
Oh BTW, I stopped in at Mick Motors today and dropped $700 on parts for the new Baja, mainly seals and rubbers. So expect a thread on Alyce the Baja very soon. It's killing me that I have all these parts and the car is 900kms away! 馃槧
Smiley 馃檪
Smiley 馃檪
Scarab 路
I'll keep my eyes peeled for the new thread!! Looking forward to it.