I had this problem earlier on in the year and had to replace the oil cooler and seals, but 'the motor is still leaking from the oil cooler area, I havn't had a look yet but the seals I know are working and are correct (brand new) and the new oil cooler was a good used one from VVDS that had been pressure tested.
Is is possible for the motor to be running to much oil pressure and blowing up oil coolers? because the problem last time was the base of the old cooler was leaking once I put in the new seals in, once I have a look at the cooler I'll be able to tell but is there a chance the case can be cracked around the oil cooler area..?
grumble ·
Have you checked your oil pressure as yes the valve can stick in the closed position,a hairline crack in the main oil gallery is also a possibility,Are you using the correct oil cooler seal as there are a few different seals to suit various combinations of crankcase/oil coolers.Some of the coolers also had a spacer washer under the cooler to prevent crushing the seal excessively.(this can be checked by looking at the old seal distortion)
68AutoBug ·
sander288 wrote:G'day all
Is is possible for the motor to be running to much oil pressure and blowing up oil coolers? because the problem last time was the base of the old cooler was leaking once I put in the new seals in, once I have a look at the cooler I'll be able to tell but is there a chance the case can be cracked around the oil cooler area..?
its not a normal place for the engine to crack...
but a build up of pressure when the engine [oil] is cold and thick and blow oil coolers is common overseas..
as the oil pressure valve is stuck...
[as mentioned in the other reply]
not many people check the valve...
but its working every time you start the engine...
a very important piece of a VW engine...
it should just drop out when You undo the Cap...
LEE
sander288 ·
I know I have correct seals, I emailed the case number and pictures of the old cooler, seals and everything so I know that they are correct,
might need to run the motor minus some bits to see whats happening,
grumble ·
If you have had the cooler tested and are sure the seals are correct,bolt the cooler on without the fan housing and run it for a short time to see if it leaks.Do not run it for extended periods as they will overheat quickly Les
greedy53 ·
and it could be rear seal
sander288 ·
I took the motor out yesterday and took a look at the oil cooler and removed it, what I found was oil underneath the oil cooler, so I think that the seals may be incorrect or no good.
The motor is 67 1300 SP with the F series case, I have the straight up and down 8mm seals which match my case and my old oil cooler but when I installed these new seals it turned out that my old oil cooler was rat shit, so then I got the good used one from VVDS and the leaking continued, so may I need the 8mm to 10mm seals? the oil cooler seems very similar to my old one but I know they can come in 10mm not 8mm
68AutoBug ·
sander288 wrote:G'day all
Is is possible for the motor to be running too much oil pressure and blowing up oil coolers? because the problem last time was the base of the old cooler was leaking once I put in the new seals in, once I have a look at the cooler I'll be able to tell but is there a chance the case can be cracked around the oil cooler area..?
Hi
when the oil is thick and cold the oil pressure is very high, so when you start a cold engine.. no oil goes to the oil cooler until the oil thins [warms up] and the high pressure drops...
so, Your oil pressure releif valve needs to be checked...
very easily done... Large flat bladed screwdriver to undo the plug... the valve piston and spring should drop out easily...
i would say a real main seal has gone and as you have the engine out
pull of the flywheel and replace the seal and oring as you have been removing the motor i suspect that the oring has been destroyed ,and to do it now will stop a failure later
sander288 ·
i'll check the pressure relief valve today, but the leak continues whether warm or cold...
how hard is it to replace the rear seal and O-ring?
bajachris88 ·
is there meant to be an o- ring as well too?
sander288 ·
Ok just took out the oil pressure relief plug, but the valve didn't come freely i'm still yet to get that out, so could this be my problem? and what do i do now?
got the valve out but it took a bit to get it past the threaded section. before it came out, i got it loose and it moved freely up and down.
does anyone know if it will stick again if I put it back? or what the cause of it sticking was?
grumble ·
If the valve was stuck and it took some freeing I would give it a good degrease up there and make sure that it is very free,I am assuming that extended oil change intervals,poor quality engine oil,excess blow by could be some of the causes.The guys at vintage should be able to advise you on the correct cooler seals.
sander288 ·
So I freed the valve cleaned it and it's little hole, degreased it etc.. made sure it moved freely, and it was alll good, it warms up alot better now.
The engine still leaked after this however so whilst I was in Sydney over the weekend I got some 8mm to 10mm seals, which I fitted today and ran it, and now no leaks!! just need to fix the gap on the engine lid but for another time I feel like a beer👍