Electronic Ignition kits on 6V

Are there any problems running the electric ignition kits like Pertronix etc on 6V? I've just bought a very standard '67 1300 still on 6V and probably won't be converting it anytime soon if ever.

Cheers, Angus

i think u need to convert to 12V first

Thanks for the replies Lee & Dave. I am just after a kit to replace the points, to get away from all the regular mtce that entails.

I just had a look through the Pertronix site, and they do make a kit for the 1300, also available as a 6V kit. One is Part# 1849, the 6V is 1849N6 so presumably different enough not to be interchangeable. Pro-Quip in Melbourne had the info, I'll give them a call to confirm. They also make one for the 'big-cap' 40HP dizzys in both 6V and 12V per the catalogue, which will be good for my '63 ghia.

This beetle is as it left the factory apart from a coat of red paint over the original pearl white (still kept the black flash though). As I only use it to drive 15 minutes each way to work 2-3 times a week when I'm not riding, I don't think I'll be changing to 12V unless forced.

I'll find out a bit more and let you know the results, for anyone else dumb enough to stick with 6V!

Just talked with ProQuip, there is a kit for 1300 6V, it is $265 + GST. 1200 40HP kit is $239 + GST. Both have to be ordered in, about 4 weeks. The 6V kit is about 15% dearer than the 12V, probably just based on volume production.

I won't actually get my car until next week. When I can confirm the actual distributor that is in it, I'll order one of these and let you know the results. I've used a 12V Pertronix kit in my Type 3 for the last couple of years with no problems, so I'm expecting no issues.

karmann54,

It only takes a very small voltage drop to the coil to make the 6 volt electronic units stop working. It would be a good idea to run a wire direct from the battery to a relay next to the coil, then from relay to coil, using the original coil positive wire to trigger the relay.

Normally, main wire from battery goes up to headlight switch, then to ignition switch then back down ignition circuit to coil. All this means lots of places to get a drop in voltage and when you're only starting with 6 there's not very far to go.😂 Some people swap the wires so, main goes to ignition switch first, then to headlight switch But this can also leave you with poor/er headlights. On a 6 volter you really need clean connections everywhere and use relays wherever you can. Dielectric grease is good to put on clean connections to stop them corroding. You can get some at supercheap and so on.

You could also fit a hard start relay to prevent voltage drops when using the starter motor. It will also give better voltage to the coil. This might be enough on it's own, or maybe, you could do both.

Wiring diagram for hard start relay (on page two):

http://www.oldvolkshome.com/hardstart.pdf



Regards,

Matt.

Matt

Matt

Thanks for the tips. Voltage drop can be a PITA. An old oval I had a few years ago had an 8V battery to help overcome voltage drop, that might achieve the same thing. The semaphores sure worked a lot better!

I don't know whether the kits would tolerate 7-8V without damage. I know you have to wind the voltage regulator up a bit.

I'll look into both but I think the relay idea is probably going to be better. I'll post up the outcome!

Angus

karmann54 wrote:....I'll find out a bit more and let you know the results, for anyone else dumb enough to stick with 6V!

That would be me! 😀

Looking forward to hearing the results....

R 🙂