Thanks mate. Should be fun getting them sorted. the Italian jobs are hard to come by in good order - or cost the same a new one rebuilt. I have not heard anything bad about the Spain built units. Terry
Craig Torrens ·
easy to get setup............you know my number !😀
spdterence ·
Thanks Craig - getting a bit impatient now.
Didnt figure I would go to the efforts of setting up your Dells only to put on new Webers anyway -
Then work out the ignition ! - only to find out it is the heads❗
Triple X ·
Stick with what they comes with out of the box. Try them first and then decide next what needs to be changed.
spdterence ·
Well my Webers turned up today.
I asked for:
air jet - 175
emulsion tube F11
main jet - 140
Received
air jet - 200 😠
emulsion tube F11
main jet - 115 😠
I think the main jet is way too small. I have a set of 140's So will start there I think.
The idle jets are 50 - which is good.
The other hassle I have is the Hex linkage - the arms won't slide the rotten things. What's the best idea - get some emory paper on the bar OR do I try to stretch the arms open. My only concern is that I stretch it too far and crack the thing. Any thoughts? Terry
matberry ·
Definately pull them apart and clean, the last new set of Spanish Webers were full of swarf.
I'd file or sand the arms to make fit.
spdterence ·
Thanks Matt - got the arms and linkages sorted pretty well tonight I think - gotta love the Dremel!
I will pull them down tomorrow and go through them - the last thing I need is a heap of fuel pulling debris into the smaller galleries! Cheers. Terry
Bizarre ·
bet you a carton of Stellas that they have 28 vents in there as well 😠
spdterence ·
How did you know? 😬
Why would anyone supply a 40 with 28 vents in? 36 I could understand perhaps.
I am now seeing why some are much cheaper then perhaps others. DRD kit looked a lot better and they claim that they pull each carby down and rebuild to your specs. They were $150.00USD more though. So - not sure which is the right way to go - a bit of mucking about setting up or get it right and pay more upfront - well it might cost about the same ultimately.
Bizarre ·
spdterence wrote:How did you know? 😬
Because 4.1ish x 28 = 115
That is the "stock" set up for 40's
I just dont believe in 28's being ok - especially for a 1916
Either does AC.net, or Richard Holzl or.................
I have 34's in my DRLA's on a lo-po 1916 and it runs sweet
I had 32s in IDF36's on a 1600/1775 and it ran sweet
spdterence ·
Ok - I see. Mine currently is a stock 1776- will the 28's work with the correct jets?
Funny thing is my last carbies were IDF 36 with 32 vents - so IDF 40's with 28 vents seems a bit mixed up ?
Bizarre ·
Possibly
I will admit i have never "personally" tried. All my trusted information has said to go with the 32's etc
My only hands on experience was a friend's 1916 similar to mine that had 28s in a set of IDF40's and it didnt work
Admittedly the owner wouldnt fiddle and try and sort it
You can ream out your 115's but the 28's will need to be replaced.
Try the 28's and 115's
You may be one of te people that can get it to work
Please let me know how you go
spdterence ·
Yeh - should be an interesting experiment. Where do I find replacement venturis though. Did a search on Samba - nothing there, fleabay either. Might have to ring someone! Terry
colonel mustard ·
Possibly CB performance?
Bizarre ·
spdterence wrote:. Where do I find replacement venturis though.
Thry these places
AC.net definitely - but they only do 32's and 36's
me find a link for you when I get home from work.
it may help
you can also buy fuel miser carburettor repair kits for webers at Autopro. if you need gaskets and stuff.
Craig Torrens ·
or you could just get your 28's machined out to 32................easy as !
Thanks for the tip Matt on the cleaning - I did a bit last night but only did it by 1/2. There was quite a bit of flaky metal and a few machine shavings in there. Will go a bit harder this time.
Ian - the article on set up is great - I knew there was float setting involved - but didn't know where to find an article on that. Cheers.
Venturies - a lathe! - what a good idea - as long as there is enough material there to machine I guess. I suppose I can always take them out to 32 - try them and then try 34 I guess via that method - Bizarre - you might have a spare set of 28's too I would imagine ha ha.
One of the US site mentions that the enrichment circuit is a good thing to block off - but have know idea how to do this or if this is actually a good idea - any thoughts?
Thanks heaps guys -
spdterence ·
IDF and IDA Pump Bypass
Part #: FSK0041
Price: $ 14.95 When the accellerator pump diaphragm pushes fuel, some goes to the squirter, and some goes BACK to the float bowl thru the pump bypass. IDFs come with a 55, and if you drop this to a zero, ALL the fuel is squirted towards the cylinder (not back into the float bowl), which eliminates hesitation, especially with today's oxygenated fuels! You need 1 bypass per carb. IDAs come with a 0 Bypass.
This is off the aircooled.net website. Any thoughts on this for IDF - while I am setting them up. I am sure the Italians had a reason for it - but then again might have been too much wine with lunch! Terry
Bizarre ·
spdterence wrote:One of the US site mentions that the enrichment circuit is a good thing to block off - but have know idea how to do this or if this is actually a good idea - any thoughts?
See the anodized plate on the left carb
That is the enrichment block off plate
You carbs wont fit if you havent taken these off.
They are not needed. Alfas used a cort of choke set up
Never heard of that other thing about by pass - but every thing Jon Conolly has told me has been true
matberry ·
Definately the vents need to be change and they have enough material to be machined out. Mike at CBB did a set for me recently, and as we were chasing tuneup we did back to back dyno runs on his machined venturi's and a set that were from Weber that were not machined (ie cast 34mm) and the machined version is what gave a better fuel mixture throughout the rev range (after getting the emulsions right). These were 34mm which I would recommend for a very mild 1915. This was an auto engine and we wanted perfect jetting and after 8 dyno sessions changing exhaust chokes jets etc we ended up with 34 vent; 55;140;200;F7.
Bizarre ·
F7??? wow
F11 is the common one
I have heard of people using F2's
My 36's came with F57 from the Alfa's - but i could NEVER get them to behave
(probably showing ignorance here 🤓 ) just not heard of people using F7's
See what benefit 8 dyno sessions can do
matberry ·
There were 8 dyno sessions as the owner had too much input and was trying to save money by doing much of the work himself which can create some issues. We did exhaust changes and had some issues with the NEW Webers being full of swarf etc etc....it all takes time and dont assume anything was the lesson there. The F7's are a richer low end of the main circuit emulsion and cured a slight flat spot but the gas readings were amazing how much smoother it all became as the correct jetting combo all came together. The dyno operator couldn't believe what we achieved with such a simple change. He hated Webers saying they are hard to get right.....they are Haltech expert's and were really surprised to see the Webers fall into place eventually.
spdterence ·
😬
Cleaned up the carbies. Lots of crap in there! So that was a good thing.
Now the bad thing. The buggers won't fit! The manifolds seem to be taking the carbies too close to the fan housing. I think I need to machine the base of the manifolds to change the angle of the manifold, then take some more off the top to level the carbie again.
Ah the joys. 🤪
BiX ·
I know my Dells had issues, but it was only about 8mm of so. I got a nice ball hammer and put a 1inch wide 5mm deep dish in the side and there was also a casting that stuck out on the dells so jsut slightly filed it back.
Bizarre ·
just use the manifolds you already have??
Otherwise the ball pein hammer
matberry ·
Bizarre wrote:just use the manifolds you already have??
Otherwise the ball pein hammer
Or go to a 36hp style fan housing.
Bizarre ·
BTW - they definitely wont fit untill you take off the cold start / enrichment circuit thingy
spdterence ·
I will have to junk my painted tinware I think - to be really honest I am not a big fan of the bright green engine tin. Looks a bit girly. So I think I will get a matt black 🥷 one instead.
Are the 36HP with heater tubes the same shape or do I need to go with the tinware without the heater tubes to make it fit? Terry
Bizarre ·
mmmm................. a 36HP shroud with heater tubes is the same shape as a 36HP shroud with out
trouble is they dont have the correct veins inside to direct the air as the one you have
Why cant you use your current manifolds??
A 36IDF and 40IDF is the same shape
spdterence ·
Here is a picture of the motor. The tinware on mine seems to step out where the heater tubes emerge. Not sure what version they are but the 36HP stuff seems to have a cleaner profile / arch down to the heads.
Do I need to change the rest of the tinware to suit?
Also I made a booboo and sold my whole kit - 36's manifolds / linkages etc etc before I got my new set- so I don't have the old manifolds anymore. I learned a lesson there. Sell it at the end - after it all works and is together.
Bizarre ·
I am 99% sure they are the same width at the base
They just curve over quicker
Again - i would just e putting the 40's on the manifolds you have
matberry ·
The same lower tin will work, the 36hp shroud doesn't flare out above the barrel covers like the normal vw heater fan housing. It sure makes access better.
spdterence ·
Nice and neat - sounds like the go.
What's the deal with the internal baffles though - I don't want to cook it!
Gracey ·
Bizarre wrote:mmmm................. a 36HP shroud with heater tubes is the same shape as a 36HP shroud with out
trouble is they dont have the correct veins inside to direct the air as the one you have
Why cant you use your current manifolds??
A 36IDF and 40IDF is the same shape
As far as I know most of the doghouse style 36hp shrouds do have the veins inside, I know the one on my car certainly does.
spdterence ·
Thanks Gracey - Don't suppose anyone has a picha? Tez
Craig Torrens ·
you want the one that has the 5 veins............this is the same as the OEM Doghouse fanshroud.
matberry ·
My old 2332 IDA motor with the 36 shroud. Has vanes inside, the compromise is the vanes are only welded to one skin of the housing not both sides. It makes for a clean front so I feel an acceptable tradeoff if kept an eye on.
h ·
hey matt
bet you DONT drive that down my dusty street.. 😉
matberry ·
Right there Paul, gonna terrorise your street with this one day
Bizarre ·
Most of the adds say this
"THESE 36HP STYLE SHROUDS FEATURE EXCELLENT FIT AND FINISH ALONG WITH CORRECTLY ENGINEERED INTERNAL AIR BAFFLES"
AC.net says this
The 36hp shape is cleaner and gives more dual carburetor clearance than the later model styles.
IMPORTANT: SCAT tin is the best available new (old german tin is the best, but they have 3 small problems you need to know about before you order!
1: the generator/alternator backing plate mounting screws are rotated about 5 degrees CCW from straight. This doesn't matter unless you look real close, OR if you use a BERG carb linkage! Since BERG linkgage mounts on the shroud, it won't be straight without modification!
2: the little air vanes on the inside are spot welded in place. Engine vibration WILL break these spot welds, unless you get some silicone and smear it between the shroud and vane (this dampens the vibration and they won't break loose anymore), do as many as you can!
3: the cylinder covers are MISSING the little air deflectors that route the air away from the center/upper head nuts (look at stock tin), you may want to omit these, or weld them in place. This kit is NOT available without these pieces, you would have to buy the components separately.
See, we don't BS you on our parts
I have seen several that had NO deflectors inside.
Just as long as you know what you are buying
spdterence ·
Funky linkage Matt. Haven't seen that one before.
Thanks guys for the input - I think I should be able to get the right thing with that information!
The cylinder covers etc etc - I will pull it out and check it. Cheers. Terry
vwsteve ·
out of interest would 44 idfs be too big for a 1916 with large valves?
matberry ·
rexy wrote:out of interest would 44 idfs be too big for a 1916 with large valves?
Short answer. No
Long answer
Depends on other factors, cam, comp ratio, desired rev range, driving style, car type and gearing.