Damn rear wheel nuts! Anyone have a good steel post in Sydney I could borrow?

Hi guys,
Just bent the gal pipe I was using to try and remove those bloody tight rear wheel nuts. 😬
Anyone in Sydney, preferably Eastern Subs, have a good heavy duty steel post I could borrow to crack these things?
I need one asap!

Cheers,
Steve

go rip out a street sign............oops, did i say that😂

Hi

I'm in Lugarno, not far away 0490 020 338 if you want to borrow my big bit of pipe.

Steve

I'm near steve and also can lend you a 1 metre breaker bar with 3/4 drive socket i have used it for 20 years, always works

wheel nuts or axle nuts?

either way.... you can use impact to break em :P.

I'm a big bloke so it works for me :P

Get your breaker bar... fit it horizontal with the socket fully in place... (works for both wheel and axle nuts). And with the handbrake on, jump on the bar. Support yourself by holding onto the roof guttering while you doing it.

With my body off the pan i held onto the wheel. didn't hurt myself! and i worked the charm to 'crack' the bolts loose.

silver wrote:I'm near steve and also can lend you a 1 metre breaker bar with 3/4 drive socket i have used it for 20 years, always works

Yes,
its very easy to break off 1/2 inch drive breaker bars
[sidchrome] while jumping up and down on a 5 ft piece of pipe.

5 ft is the official length of pipe needed to tighten the axle nut to the correct torque... !! [USA]

sometimes You will need 6 ot 7 foot of 50mm pipe to undo the axle nut...

I always use anti seize on the axle when replacing the nuts..
to get the correct torque..

If the axle nuts are NOT done up to the correct torque settings... the brake drums will chew out on the splines..

wheel bolts only need the VW socket and bar to tighten them up.. the jack bar is about 35cms long..

just remember to tighten in stages on opposite bolts..

LEE

are these all left hand release twist i can't remember i'm just old memory's going ummmmmmmmmm what was i saying

68AutoBug wrote:Yes,
its very easy to break off 1/2 inch drive breaker bars
[sidchrome] while jumping up and down on a 5 ft piece of pipe.
LEE

i dont know what posseses people to even atempt axle nuts and flyhweel glandnuts with 1/2 drive breaker bars 🙄

even if they dont break they're not gonna get anywhere near the correct torque

i use the old jump on gal water pipe trick with my cars as my rattle gun just hasnt got the balls to undo the axle nuts
works well but you have to be careful as its so easy for the socket to slip off the nut when u jump on the bar

Hi

I have a 3/4 tension wrench that I use to tighten the axle nuts, the factory torque is not high as you might expect, I can do it to the correct tension with my tension wrench with one hand.

Steve

1303Steve wrote:Hi

I have a 3/4 tension wrench that I use to tighten the axle nuts, the factory torque is not high as you might expect, I can do it to the correct tension with my tension wrench with one hand.

Steve

Good lad Steve! 👍 For tightening and I must add, a light lubrication regardless of what some of the septic tanks argue against!! the torque for us old fellows is 217 ft lbs. That is if we have a bar 12 inches long and we weigh 217 lbs and we stand on the end with our weight (MASS!) the correct torque will be applied. If the bar is 24 inches long we only need half the mass to get the correct torque. If we weigh around 100kg (220 lb) then for this size bar we are over tightning the nut. Now for the youngsters who only understand metric. 😂 the book says 30 kgM. In other words a bar 1 metre long you only have to apply a force of 30 kg on the end.

NOW

To undo the thing which was most likely put together with no sign of lubricant or anti seize and has been around the traps since eternity, the contact faces of the nut and hub will have that corrosion stuff there called RUST which is why we have to stand on the longer bar to overcome that horrid thing called friction.

Hope that adds to Lee's advice but then again, maybe I don't know much about engineering calculations 🙅

DH

PS. And for those wheel bolts which the tyre fitter gorillas have tightened with the old rattle gun with the threads and taper as dry as a nun's nasty, a sharp hit with one of Burchall's FBH s will help before you try with the wheel brace!!

Another way to do it is get a new car jack, one that is shaped like a diamond and put it under the bar and use the jack to push the bar up. Works well for all tight bolts in hard spots to get leverage on.

I used one of those 4 sided tyre spanners, bound to a big bit of hardwood with rope. I twisted the end off the socket. Thankfully I had another one that twisted and bent but got the rest. My rattlegun didn't stand a chance. I'm talking about wheel nuts here, not axle nuts by the way. Bloody tyre service people and their rattleguns.

Thanks for all the advice guys,

I'm talking about the 32mm AXLE nut on the bastard child (Porsche 914). I'm bolting on a 911 front and new 5 stud hubs/discs on the rear for the Fuchs that should be here either today/tomorrow. I did say wheel nut in my first post. Sorry.

I've got a good socket and 3/4 bar. The pipe that I was using was a fairly bodgy 2 mtr piece of pipe. It couldn't take my weight (85kg) off the end of it before bending.

Thanks for the offer Steve and Silver. I'm at work for the next couple of days now. I think I can smuggle out a good bar that I found there. If I get caught, I'll be paying one of you a visit!

Cheers,
Steve

dont over tighten the wheel bolt as this will warp the drum on early bugs n busses

there only susposed to be 22ft Lb

Hi Hutcho,
Just started a similar thread over at 914world check out their reply's

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=100545&hl=castellated nut&st=20

Good luck, I also found penetrating oil helps
cheers
John