dekkerboy ·
Whats your opinion i know their are other threads but still.
Aussieveedubbers · Tech Mods and Frequently asked Questions
1915 should I shouldn't I
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/80817/1915-should-i-shouldnt-i
colonel mustard ·
Should you, or should you not try and use better spelling?
more info needed re: engine? Do you have $6000?
what do you have now? what is your budget and/or other options.
more info needed re: engine? Do you have $6000?
what do you have now? what is your budget and/or other options.
MISS VDUB ·
Oh my god, seriously Colonel Mustard, don't be such a rude arrogant person! How many times do you need to be told to think before you type, your opinion isnt required for everything. Since when do you have the right to give people lessons on spelling, not everyone is perfect. Great of you to pick on a 14 year old!
Sorry dekkerboy, once you start talking motors buddy, you start talking money. Well cars full stop mean money, but performance means money. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a 1600 which you can then build on. I don't know what your money situation is like, or if you're getting help, but start small and work your way up. One thing i've learnt is that you don't have to have everything at once (it's nice that's for sure), but work your way up.
There are plenty of threads on here which will help you with info and give you a fair idea on the expense and labour required.
Sorry dekkerboy, once you start talking motors buddy, you start talking money. Well cars full stop mean money, but performance means money. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a 1600 which you can then build on. I don't know what your money situation is like, or if you're getting help, but start small and work your way up. One thing i've learnt is that you don't have to have everything at once (it's nice that's for sure), but work your way up.
There are plenty of threads on here which will help you with info and give you a fair idea on the expense and labour required.
Craig Torrens ·
Why do you need $6k ?colonel mustard wrote:more info needed re: engine? Do you have $6000?
I had my Ragtop motor built for under $4k including ALL parts and labour 😂
cnfabo ·
4k craig, well why dont u explain to dekkerboy how u did it so he doesnt have to spend 6g's..........
colonel mustard ·
14 year old's can't drive. I think that says enough. I am not a rude person, Thanks Ash, but clearly I am, as you seem to always be correct.
Craig, Are you being serious?
Craig, Are you being serious?
76bug ·
yes craig is serious, i was able to source all the parts for 1916 long block and twin 36idf's for under 2K with careful spending, granted most parts were 2nd hand but were reconditioned by a professional and the bottom end was completly balanced
alien8 ·
Yeah it says he's got two more years free time to build his engine😂colonel mustard wrote:14 year old's can't drive. I think that says enough.
MISS VDUB ·
Exactly, 2 more years to gather information and put it into practice, and who's to say it's not financially achievable for him?
Keep it real buddy, and do some research. Plenty of helpful people here who won't bag you for asking reasonable questions.
Keep it real buddy, and do some research. Plenty of helpful people here who won't bag you for asking reasonable questions.
dekkerboy ·
The whole idea was to get an opinion and thankyou for your imput. I will probably keep the stock 1600 because the pistons and barrels are good and i'm fuel injecting it anyway so it will still pack a punch hopefully. I will do the cam, lifters, heads and valves anyway.
trickysimon ·
dekkerboy: From what I've heard; Fuel injection won't give that much more power. More-so smoother power
and less tuning. You may as well have the case bored for 94mm pistons and cylinders while the case is apart for the cam change.
Gunna get a much bigger power boost from a cam change with a 1915.
and less tuning. You may as well have the case bored for 94mm pistons and cylinders while the case is apart for the cam change.
Gunna get a much bigger power boost from a cam change with a 1915.
68AutoBug ·
Hidekkerboy wrote:Whats your opinion?
i know there are other threads but still.
Personally, I wouldn't... an 1835 is all You need...
ratio rockers and a good carburetor or two...
extractor exhaust system..
My Son has all this and can spin the very wide back tyres very easily...
but as Ash said, it all costs money... and lots of it...
a 1600 is OK to start with....
I have a single port 1600 and although its a semi automatic beetle, it goes fine...
to make it accelerate faster , all I need to do is put smaller wheel and tyres on the back...
many VW owners used to fit 14 inch and even 13 inch wheels and tyres to their 1200 beetles years ago...
cheers
LEE
http://community.webshots.com/user/68autobug
dekkerboy ·
Ok what bore size is 1835. I would like to go a little bigger with engine size because i am building baja. But i dont really have the money for a 1915, so i might see what im going to do. I just bought another baja and manx in a ebay auction, so hopfully one engine is already modified.
trickysimon ·
Don't go 1835 unless you go with the thick wall 92s.
Bizarre ·
Dekker
have a read of this site
It will answer a lot of your questions
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm
have a read of this site
It will answer a lot of your questions
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm
dekkerboy ·
Thanks i will have a read.
BeetleJuice ·
A well built 1916 is the way I'd go..Had a couple of 1835's & A 1641 years ago, they were ok, bigger cubes is better as it allows more flexibility with heads, cam etc.
johny rotten ·
bigger is not always better
use thick wall 92's or 90.5
😁
don't buy second hand junk
anything used always has some issues
use thick wall 92's or 90.5
😁
don't buy second hand junk
anything used always has some issues
dekkerboy ·
Ok so i will probably still stick to what i got for now, i have got a motor that i think is modified so i'm having a look tomorrow thanks.
71-BEETLE-SEDAN ·
Lee im interested in how much this motor cost?
Joel ·
makes me laugh when people start talking big bore motors on a budget....
oh i'm on a budget so ill go 1776 or 1835 cos 1916 is too expensive....🙄
it makes no feking difference, the cost to machine a case and heads for 1776 or 1835 is no different to 1916
and even the P&C kits are pretty much all the same price
just forget the 1835 option unless your big on dud engines
thinner walls cause that many problems that 1776 eninges will out live and out power ay 1835s
oh i'm on a budget so ill go 1776 or 1835 cos 1916 is too expensive....🙄
it makes no feking difference, the cost to machine a case and heads for 1776 or 1835 is no different to 1916
and even the P&C kits are pretty much all the same price
just forget the 1835 option unless your big on dud engines
thinner walls cause that many problems that 1776 eninges will out live and out power ay 1835s
colonel mustard ·
71-BEETLE-SEDAN wrote:Lee im interested in how much this motor cost?
MORE than what joel is selling his 1776 for.
why go 1835 when some many people say they are not good.... just so you can prove them right...
zayus ·
Hi Dekkerboy,
If you keeping the stock size crank (69mm), choosing the displacement is the "cheap part" of your "hot"engine.
Selecting performance heads, carbs, headers, cam ignition system, blue-printing, and top engine builder is the expensive part of building your engine.
I'm a little bias, but the "older guy" with the moustache and never ending stories, who resides on the NSW Mid-Norh Coast builds pretty good performance engines.
If you keeping the stock size crank (69mm), choosing the displacement is the "cheap part" of your "hot"engine.
Selecting performance heads, carbs, headers, cam ignition system, blue-printing, and top engine builder is the expensive part of building your engine.
I'm a little bias, but the "older guy" with the moustache and never ending stories, who resides on the NSW Mid-Norh Coast builds pretty good performance engines.
cnfabo ·
dekkerboy, that last sentence zayus wrote, is soo soo true... p.o.b.j.o.y......p.o.w.e.r....
mactaylor ·
dekkerdude why not build a turbo 1600 like stanleys. can be done cheapish and a great way to learn then u can go and beat the ricer boys in a humble litle dub
Paulc1964au ·
Awesome information perfect for someone like me planning on some engine upgrades in the futureBizarre wrote:Dekker
have a read of this site
It will answer a lot of your questions
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm
Euro_67 ·
Dekkerboy, is your head spinning from all the contradictory answers yet ?
Stick to advice from people who have experience. Search the posts history from would be advisors you will see what I mean. There is a wealth of knowledge here, you just need to filter the BS to find it.
I had a 1916 many moons ago, and was happy with the increase in power over stock, however its performance wasnt what it could have been. If I had better advice at the time, and paid more attention to the total combination rather than just displacemet it could have been better.
The key is not in displacement, but the sum of the parts chosen. Carefully matched parts, assembled correctly will result in a long lasting engine with good power.
There are many High power 1916s on here with power figures originally believed unachievable. This is not just because of displacement, but because they carefully selected components working together. Read this on Hellbugged's Berg engine build for inspiring attention to detail !
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=38560&page=1
Stick to advice from people who have experience. Search the posts history from would be advisors you will see what I mean. There is a wealth of knowledge here, you just need to filter the BS to find it.
I had a 1916 many moons ago, and was happy with the increase in power over stock, however its performance wasnt what it could have been. If I had better advice at the time, and paid more attention to the total combination rather than just displacemet it could have been better.
The key is not in displacement, but the sum of the parts chosen. Carefully matched parts, assembled correctly will result in a long lasting engine with good power.
There are many High power 1916s on here with power figures originally believed unachievable. This is not just because of displacement, but because they carefully selected components working together. Read this on Hellbugged's Berg engine build for inspiring attention to detail !
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=38560&page=1
colonel mustard ·
mactaylor wrote:dekkerdude why not build a turbo 1600 like stanleys. can be done cheapish ........................
ask stanley if thats true... i think you find its not. to have a 1600 that can stand forced induction, isnt cheap. sure you could just stock up in stockers and change it out once a fortnight if you want.....
Joel ·
you can definatley get some good power from turboing an engine, its not always cheapish but you really have to be in tune with whats going on with the enginemactaylor wrote:dekkerdude why not build a turbo 1600 like stanleys. can be done cheapish and a great way to learn then u can go and beat the ricer boys in a humble litle dub
its really easy to grenade a force fed motor with simple things like a bit of lean out or to much timing under boost
a stocker can handle decent boost with the right setup and long as your not reving the tits off a stock bottom end the cope well
i got some pics somwhere of what happened to my frankenstein v1.0 after being over boosted froma dodgy wastegate
71-BEETLE-SEDAN ·
only problem you may run inot is the new p plate laws.
mactaylor ·
joel thanx. a man who knows! listen to people who know and the world gets easy. not in that way you pervs😀
jjwebb123 ·
Why would you want a car from 1915.😂😂,,Thats what i first thought,God im tired 🤖
dekkerboy ·
Well turns out the engine that i have is a 1915 thanks for the help guys.
bajachris88 ·
Hey Colonel Mustard, take a breath man and stop always being a hard arse 😎, ask ur mate Dave his opinion about his 1835. you'd find it VERY interesting.
2: forced induction particularly turbo can be done cheap.
Turbo charger: $100 for second hand less than decade old spare scooby turbo with low bearing movement.
Blow through carb setup: Free. You can mod a stock 34 pict carb for blow thru. just need materials like rebuild kits etc and sealants. there is a thread link to another forum with a guy in the states who did it cheap, look up my supercharger threads on here.
Fuel pump and 'boost dependent' regulator... tube bender ($300 for the bender for zorst, best to cut and make up something with the original exhaust to save time and money) and welding materials ($150 for a stick welder). Good learning experience too.
oil lines, air to air intercooler ($50 for ebay stock subi or celica), Boost pressure regulator.
regulators and fuel pumps can be obtained via ebay overseas really cheap. including boost dependant pressure regulators (which make blow through carb setups possible)
cheaper than a brand new 1600 build using readily available components, and once through the person would know their carb and turbo setup inside and out.
Only restriction for the young fella is whether it is P's compliant, well, even a 1916 would probably not either. cause its classed as a 'performance' increase.
2: forced induction particularly turbo can be done cheap.
Turbo charger: $100 for second hand less than decade old spare scooby turbo with low bearing movement.
Blow through carb setup: Free. You can mod a stock 34 pict carb for blow thru. just need materials like rebuild kits etc and sealants. there is a thread link to another forum with a guy in the states who did it cheap, look up my supercharger threads on here.
Fuel pump and 'boost dependent' regulator... tube bender ($300 for the bender for zorst, best to cut and make up something with the original exhaust to save time and money) and welding materials ($150 for a stick welder). Good learning experience too.
oil lines, air to air intercooler ($50 for ebay stock subi or celica), Boost pressure regulator.
regulators and fuel pumps can be obtained via ebay overseas really cheap. including boost dependant pressure regulators (which make blow through carb setups possible)
cheaper than a brand new 1600 build using readily available components, and once through the person would know their carb and turbo setup inside and out.
Only restriction for the young fella is whether it is P's compliant, well, even a 1916 would probably not either. cause its classed as a 'performance' increase.