Why have a non VW engine conversion?

Reasons to use non VW engines

The choice to select auto power plant, over the coriginal type, should not be taken lightly. It is not as simple as: "I WANT TO SAVE SOME MONEY" If this was my reason then I would not have started the project. My choice of an alternative to VW power results from:

Desire for a newer technology,
Belief that there is an alternative solution to Porsche and Corvair
Exercising the experimental desires of the individual,
Belief that by reducing maintenance costs, the likelihood of completing a more thorough maintenance programme is probable, thus improving the inherent reliability,
Belief that there is an engine that does not have to be molly coddled to keep it alive whilst in operation,
A more fuel efficient engine for the power obtained is out there enabling more driving hours, or more speed, for the same operating cost.

Why have a non vw engine conversion?

because "I WANT TO SAVE SOME MONEY" simple, & I did & I have. CT & I worked out that once we got to about 100+hp @ the wheels with our VW engines, it was costing $100 for about 1 hp @ the wheels extra. thats when I decided to put the brakes on the vw engine.

i sold my vw engine , did my conversion & made $3200 profit.

Even if I take into account the wrx engine rebuild later on, I still made $900.

So yes, I did my conversion to save some money, & I was building my own vw engines so was spending half of what most guys spend.

regards


Jak

This is and old door opening to new comments😎

Jakos project deffently shows u that u can do it on a very small budget.....subie conversion! with plenty hps on tap😎

What would it cost for somone who does not work on their car for whatever reason to have a non VW engine transplanted?
$8000, $10000?
Following Joels thread on his Subi conversion there is a far amount of custom tinkering involved with the swap. The labour cost would be quite high if paying a pro workshop to carry out the work.
To spend $10000 on a $3000 Beetle would probably seem outrageous for most in this position?

It makes total sense if you have the skill or the desire and access to tools to do the conversion. A better engine makes total sense. For the rest of us it is just a dream.
I would use a non Vw engine in a heartbeat.

To pay a shop to build and install a 200HP VW motor into your car would be very expensive and probably quite unreliable too.

I did it to learn about modern engines and EFI, and I did that. I also did it as a cheaper alternative to trying to get more power from a VW motor (like Jak, I had a ~100HP VW motor already and getting more power was costly). I also wanted something reliable and nice to drive, the V6 is that. I was sick of fiddling with the webers on the 1916 whenever they got a bit of dirt in the idle jets or didn't want to work for some other odd reason.

I was actually planning on building my own twin supercharged type 4 motor for my Baja. I had two type 4 motors stripped down and ready to go. But then I priced VW stuff. To rebuild the type 4 to stock was going to cost more than the V6 conversion.

alien8 wrote:What would it cost for somone who does not work on their car for whatever reason to have a non VW engine transplanted?
$8000, $10000?
Following Joels thread on his Subi conversion there is a far amount of custom tinkering involved with the swap. The labour cost would be quite high if paying a pro workshop to carry out the work.
To spend $10000 on a $3000 Beetle would probably seem outrageous for most in this position?

It makes total sense if you have the skill or the desire and access to tools to do the conversion. A better engine makes total sense. For the rest of us it is just a dream.
I would use a non Vw engine in a heartbeat.

this quote is correct.
To spend $10000 on a $3000 Beetle would probably seem outrageous for most in this position?


yo u have to be a car buff to spend that sort of money on a motor I certainly wouldn't do that to my every day ford laser wagon🙅
It was cheap to do and the vw is just so much better to drive and that's the part I like about cars driving them, some people just like to look at em😂
I am in front like Jak cause we got a WRX wreck and sold everything on Ebay and kept the motor

Regardless of engine, it was still born a vw, and nuffin will ever change that. Soif it keeps the V8 egotistic macho boys at bay and the teenie bopper in his 90's body kited lancer or excel in the dust then you get every salute and pat on the back from me 😀 👍

as already said its a much cheaper alternative if you can do it yourself

as soon as i sell my 1776 even buying a second engine ill probably still be infront

excluding the cost of the second engine my entire conversion on the road and engineered cost less than a stock 1600 rebuild

and if i had of modified the sump and loom myself theres nearly another $900 i could have saved, but i still wouldnt go that way for the sake of saving $900, it was so worth it

Pros:
the engines are everywhere, every wrecker in aus would almost have an EJ of some description
its fit with no body mods other than the valance being made removable
its nearly triple the power of a 1600
gets better fuel economy
is 100x smoother
and will have 2-3x the lifespan of a vw engine
and that sexy note 😂

con:
had to cut the front for a radiator but i've done it in a manner that will take me about half an hour with a welder to reverse
...that is all.... 😂

theres another downside joel...i had reason to come down to murwillumbah today and to make the drive home interesting i went home via chillingham and numinbah valley. I'm sure you know the road from chillingham up to the border gate and you know it was raining today...heheh...in second going up the steep part just to take it easy in the rain but the boost kept braking traction if i eased the foot too far down....bugga! my old 1800 engine didn't have that problem!🙄

I just thought it would be a good discussion point.

I believe the engine wins the race, not the car body. So If a Subaru engined VW can beat a Ricer or Commondore at the drags, then it is a Subaru win. There are some perspectives that have to be kept.

Yep i sold my old subi powered bay to help with the deposit on the house,
really miss the smooth power on tap, so im about to do something the purists will hate! and convert el concreto our single cab split to ej22 power.
thinking rad in the tresure chest with most of the air coming from the orig double skinned roof air intakes.
once again any mod i do could be undone in a weekend.

for some of us peter it is not a race...in my case its getting the maximum enjoyment out of my kombi. I'm not a drag racer...never hard on the clutch but just enjoy all the benefits of a kombi camper which is far from slow👍

Oh I totally understand that it is not a race. I was just letting people know my opinion on race win brand feelings.

I still remember the sweet 1800 we had in the bus when it was running clean and pure, and at 100kph it had an almost hypnotic sound that you had to relax and enjoy.

alien8 wrote:What would it cost for somone who does not work on their car for whatever reason to have a non VW engine transplanted?
$8000, $10000?
Following Joels thread on his Subi conversion there is a far amount of custom tinkering involved with the swap. The labour cost would be quite high if paying a pro workshop to carry out the work.

Are there any commercial businesses that perform the subi conversion into Beetles for those of us unable or unskilled to do it ourselves? If so, where are they located?

Cheers

Craig

crsedge wrote:

alien8 wrote:What would it cost for somone who does not work on their car for whatever reason to have a non VW engine transplanted?
$8000, $10000?
Following Joels thread on his Subi conversion there is a far amount of custom tinkering involved with the swap. The labour cost would be quite high if paying a pro workshop to carry out the work.

Are there any commercial businesses that perform the subi conversion into Beetles for those of us unable or unskilled to do it ourselves? If so, where are they located?

Cheers

Craig

where you from ???

What sort of economy can you expect from a subi in a bus Hellbus? Mitchell

Economy is around 11litre/100km around town and 10l/100km country. Not much more economy fuel wise than the well tuned 1800.

ian.mezz wrote:

crsedge wrote:

alien8 wrote:What would it cost for somone who does not work on their car for whatever reason to have a non VW engine transplanted?
$8000, $10000?
Following Joels thread on his Subi conversion there is a far amount of custom tinkering involved with the swap. The labour cost would be quite high if paying a pro workshop to carry out the work.

Are there any commercial businesses that perform the subi conversion into Beetles for those of us unable or unskilled to do it ourselves? If so, where are they located?

Cheers

Craig

where you from ???

I am from Melbourne! 😎

i would say Mick's conversion cost a heap more than the $8-10k to get it looking half as good as a well dressed simple VW motor.......................so perhaps it's a false economy if you want to keep your engine bay looking showy/neat?

Jak.........would that be the going rate for coversion for us other Tom, Dick and Harry's..........or was it another
"contact" thing to be so cheap?

i also think in the case of a breakdown/fault, it takes professional diagnosis to even find out what's gone wrong..........i know a new coil for the missus impreza was $400, so spares aren't that cheap

comparing apples for apples..........a NEW VW engine v EJ crate motor complete would be interesting (with out the HP factoring involved)

i don't care either way and am lucky enough to use both set ups..........that's when the subie powered one isn't playing up at least 😂

I'm not against changing the vee dub donk change out, what ever makes u happy. but i will say coming from a investment/collector point of veiw ( family has 6 GT falcons) if you have something special/rare i would personally not make massive changes like that.

hellbugged wrote:Jak.........would that be the going rate for coversion for us other Tom, Dick and Harry's..........or was it another
"contact" thing to be so cheap?

i also think in the case of a breakdown/fault, it takes professional diagnosis to even find out what's gone wrong..........i know a new coil for the missus impreza was $400, so spares aren't that cheap

yeh sure why not. Whilst I'm no mechanic, I do know my way around a garage. The only thing I didnt' pay for was for Paul to Install my Microtech. I know that to have a Microtech purchased, installed & tuned is around $2000.
So lets for arguements sake say that i had paid to have to have a proffesional install it (although Pauls work would put most pro's to shame) on top of the $1000 purchase price & $200 dyno time to tune it. I break even.
I'm still in front though as far as I'm concerned.

There is no tricks to my conversion, I just thought about it, thought some more, asked lots of questions to the Subaru guys, then went & did it. I don't have 3 phase power in my garage, no hoist, simple tool kit. Any idiot can do it, I'm proof.

I'm sure Wes was in the same boat, although I think he's a little more qualified in the nugget department.

As for the coil packs, I bought 4 spare coil packs just in case, for $80.

regards
Jak

I think it's a pitty people put money in aircooled engines when there are great modern engines lying in the scrapyard.
And their only "drawback" is their different cooling system.

But, to each their own, everybody should enjoy this hobby to their own likings.

I guess things like superbugs are very unloved at the moment so mixing brands doesn't matter so much.😁😀
In years to come when they become rare they may be restored to there former glory.😁

But fitting a subie to a splitty ! 🙅🙅

surely even a std vw engine is enough to push a splitty ute , they weigh nothing.

So which companies in which states do professional EJ22 Conversions ?

Thanks

Custom Vee Dub in QLD do a drive in drive out EJ22 conversion for busses, including all engineering and legal paperwork.

http://www.customveedub.com.au/

helbus wrote:Custom Vee Dub in QLD do a drive in drive out EJ22 conversion for busses, including all engineering and legal paperwork.

http://www.customveedub.com.au/

.... but what about Beetles??

im guessing westside do bugs as they did micks bug

i forgot to add another of the main reasons i converted was i wanted to get away from carbys and setup A/C

by the time i got EFI installed and tuned on a vw engine it would be more than what ive spent on the subi conversion
and it would still only be an old vw engine with vw tendencies at the end of the day

and mounting a compressor on a vw engine espeically one with twin weber or a supercharger was just going to be a nightmare

Here may be another reason.
2335 klms Central Coast to Brissy and back. 1550kgs + loaded to the roof lining.(probably over 2000kgs with all of us in it also)

9.9Litres/100klms with 200 horsepower.

Oh and no downshifting for overtaking lanes!

I'm never selling it.

Brendan

my engine has 2457cc, 165hp stock and is lazy as all get out. It cost $4k 6 years back with ECU from a wrecker. You can't build a proper type4 with oversize pots for that money. I know coz I looked into it. So for me, like a lot of you guys, it was $$$. I still like aircooled motors. They have real advantages, but like most of you have said, real performance aircoolers cost real performance money and need real performance servicing. I don't have the time for that, so I'll stick with the suby. I have dreams of working it and that, coz I reckon it has a safe NA 300hp in it with the right cams, head work, pistons/rods and ITBs. But in reality, the engine will probably outlast me as is.

BTW, I think there is a huge difference between converting cars and buses. Cars it's about $$$, buses it's about power to weight. The only way to get a bus to reliably go hard IMHO is to put a non-VW motor in it. They just weigh so much that an aircooled 4 can't really get them moving, that's before you start adding aircon, proper alternator and wack a decent trailer on the back. If I ever buy a bay (which I'd love but the missus hates) it will get a large capacity watercooled motor. Why muck around afterall.

Manxdune wrote:So which companies in which states do professional EJ22 Conversions ?

Thanks

quickfit motorsport - hornsby
westside mufflers - bankstown(?)

oh I forgot, with a watercooled motor, you can put a proper heater in the car. 😉

I started out with an EJ22 in my kombi and it had all the grunt in the world that a sensible person would want from a kombi...its a pity i'm not sensible😬

so now I've got the EJ20T and with equal length headers and straight thru 2 1/2 exhaust the thing howls through to 7000rpm in a blink of and eye...but still not sure thats what i wanted till i go bush and up mountains and such...but geez is it fun😁

so an EJ20 or 22 NA in a beetle can put one up the V8 UTE boys? I think the body weight/kw maths means it should but wanted a reply from someone who has done the conversion.
I mainly will do the conversion for reliability and driving pleasure but sticking one up the UTE boys will make me smile greatly 🙂

yeah they are so smooth to drive and you can do this with the wrx motor and still drive it to the shops to get the bread and milk 🤪

crsedge wrote:

helbus wrote:Custom Vee Dub in QLD do a drive in drive out EJ22 conversion for busses, including all engineering and legal paperwork.

http://www.customveedub.com.au/

.... but what about Beetles??

mick58 bug is 4 sale

http://aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=67295

With me, it's about keeping up with my friend. I've a new 1800 w/dual Empi 40's and a Webcam cam. He get's the same mileage as me with his 2.8 Chevy. And, he's pulling a trailer loaded w/fire wood and a canoe.
Mine- '74 Westy
His- '73 Adventure

I'm starting a 2.3L Ford conversion -soon. Will start a thread will pics

I WANT TO SAVE SOME MONEY!

To put it bluntly my 1800 is a bottomless pit for money. If I could get my hands on an adapter plate and flywheel for something I know I could do a conversion for next to nix. The more common-as-dirt the better for the motor.
i wouldn't complain if it had towing power, but that's what the V8 Fairlane is for. Windsors are pretty much indestructible.

I just want to be able to drive my bay again. It may be an ugly POS by most standards, but it is just so satisfying to drive, and my daughter loves it. I want my baby boy to grow up knowing it like my girl. Is that so odd?

As for the VW sound, well from the inside it sounds like a diesel from a landcruiser anyway.

My plan is to try getting it registered with the VW motor (assuming it doesn't collapse in a heap like it loves doing) and collect parts for a conversion. That way I also have some wheels for when the Fairlane is off the road.

If you are wondering why I think I can do a conversion cheap, it falls to unrealistic optimism probably. but beyond that I have tools, a MIG, a place to work, a trailer for fetching parts, scavenging ability, imagination, and a Magna I have been pinching misc. parts from.

So GF, what was the question?

I doubt your bay's worse than mine BTW

Have you seen many convo's? Scoobies were made to fit. Lovely smooth power delivery on the nat asp ones.

You can pick the donks up dead cheap over there, well proven convo's. Fit and forget! Maybe grief when fitting and trials

Do yourself a favour if you have a proper bus box (preferably a 091) and get a RJES bellhousing from the UK.
Custom Off Road (or whatever they're now called) will mod your loom & supply your bits if you're not savy with looms or rad fabrications etc

Don't forget the $825 I had to pay to get a Victorian engineers report to legally register the non VW engine (VASS report). The VASS makes all of the bus legal and untouchable (except for unroadworthy items in the future). The alloy 16" rims, the front beam adjusters, the Subaru engine, the non VW front seats. All passed and legal. Oh and my insurance company cant knock back a claim for having an illegal either. Just points to consider.

ElusiveStranger, It's hard to say who has the worst bay. Rust wise mine isn't so bad, but it was a bastard bus from the day it was made, and has been bastardized immeasurably more since it was made.

Mechanically and structurally it is questionable and is missing just about every bit of rubber it was made with. its panelwork looks like it spent some time in an asteroid storm.

Imagine a panelvan manufactured in '74 and assembled in '75 with a mix of parts from both, including an 1800 dual carb and an auto trans. Shortly after being made it had a questionable conversion to a camper done on it by Land Cruisers Australia. Since then it was worked to death, had a PO gut it, now has a manual transmission from a 1600 in it, a weber progressive and a lot of other alterations.

Some things aren't worth restoring, but are still usable.

The 1800 has been through hell and is showing it. What I would like to know is what is involved in doing a conversion on the cheap? I don't mean cheap and nasty. I mean simple and solid.

I would be happy with a carb'd motor with similar or a bit more hp and torque that doesn't mind a bit of hard work.

Although I love my ground clearance, an underbody mounted radiator seems the simplest method. Alternately has anyone ever put one on the side of the engine bay, as in removed a section of the panelwork and put one there? I am curious if it would work. The sheet is mashed and torn there anyway so it would be no loss.

I know I'd have to get a NSW engineers certificate which would be a pain in the wallet, but still miniscule compared with the cost of a proper rebuild of a typeIV motor.

What are some pitfalls that may arise with designing something that will get engineer approval?

The engineer will do a brake performance test, a noise level test on the exhaust sound, and an exhaust emissions test based on the year of manufacture of the engine. That being any engine after 1985 must have a catalytic converter on the exhaust, and all relevant pollution gear for that engine must be attached. All my seatbelts were checked that they had Australian compliance tags, and in good condition. All glass was checked for Australian compliance stamps. All welds had to be good, and all conversion parts had to be secure, clean, neat and not done in stupid ways. Like running a fuel line just about touching an exhaust or a fuel filter where it could get squashed by suspension travel.

The 1800 with new distributor and carbies and exhaust will get up around $6000-7000 once finished. The engine conversion will cost about the same plus more depending again on what you do yourself. Fully legal as is. Have a look at what most other engine conversions in busses are you will see what has worked, and what problems people have had. Ultimately you are now going to have to decide yourself what you want to do.

Ooh. now we are getting into dangerous territory. AS compliance is a bit of a sticking point. We are talking about a bay panel with a pop-top, camper style sliding alum. windows fitted via holes cut in the panelwork, and a rock'n'roll bed.

Yeah.

Where do all the expenses come from with the engine conversion?

I've had trouble finding too many examples of converted busses with any detail on the conversion.

I'm also not too worried about my own workmanship. Things I may do in an unusual way but they are always given a lot of thought. Well... except for the underbody heater tube that was done with a bit of old metal downpipe, a catfood tin and a tube of grey roofing silicone 😉 it'll never fall apart but it is uuuugly.

Regarding the frame rail mounted radiator, I was wondering how the hot air escapes. is it a case of it just escaping where it can up above after the thermos suck it through, or is there more to it?

Here are all the details on my build.

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=38417&page=1

Have a look at all of the things that were needed to be done. Any EFI engine will need the EFI hardware I fitted.

You could go for a simple Subaru 1800 EA82 carby engine, but it is really going to be not much more than a water cooled version of what you had.

Tristan the expense of the conversion just depends on how much you are willing and able to do yourself

you start with a donor car or engine which is less than $1000 these days.

you'll need an adapter plate and flywheel...around $700 from Sherman...

after that its all bits and pieces...you can frig around fabricating stuff like i do or you can pay...

i had my own design adapter plate laser cut for $100 and John sold me the flywheel for $350

i modded the stock harness myself by jumping in the deepend and not only was successful but now i understand how it all works

if you are a do it yourselfer give it a go...its fun and and you could end up with an awesome car that you built yourself....heheh ask me how i know!

Helbus, the engineer certs arent as tough in NSW
mine didnt need a brake test or anything like that

he just took a noise reading and made sure it complied with the relevant ADRs (26 and 27) on my compliance plate

10 years ago i woulda said like helbus, go a carbed EA82.
but now even the newest one is 17 years old and theyre getting harder to find now.
Most L series wagons these days are running EJs

If you dont mind a bit of electrical ie chopping the loom down yourself and running a stock sump an EJ conversion could be cheap if you found a good donor car
That said though $250 for Al and Miles to chop down the loom and do it right first time was so worth the money

am I reading this right Tristans bus is an auto ?

The modification approval in QLD is also easier and cheaper. The approved person won't do a brake test unless they are concerned it won't do any good.

That's all the kind of info I wanted. Thanks!

Seagull, It was auto but it worked out cheaper to convert to manual than fix the shredded reverse + ??? on the auto, No I don't have the auto stuff anymore. One of my many regrets.

Gday just a quick comment on the viability of the swap I helped set up an ej20t in a t3 syncro 5 years or more ago. The thing drives like dream. On hills it powers on the biggest draw back is the trans it has been rebuilt once replaced again cheaper to buy a wreck than the repairs cost the mate now has 2 syncros sitting the shed used 1 trans now about to use second. The worst part of this story is that he treats it with kid gloves when it running well it kicks bottoms on highway you can see v8 drivers tring to get a look et engine bay as you go past.Iam in process of trying to convert him into the subi trans coversion biggest stepping stone for him is losing the decoupler he spent a small fortune on. he has to come to grips with a 5th gear & strength of suby box compared to unreliable syncro box this is the costlry weeklink in the awd system. If you can drive 1 converted you will be converted
Ernie

GF: mmm, least $$$ for better power?

best engine conversion in OZ is the commode V6. No doubt about that. Cheap, torquey, will run on anything. ECU can be easily rechipped. Zillions of hot up parts. More made than most other engines in OZ. Lazy and predictable. All the 4WD crowd put em in everything small.

HOWEVER, to put one in a VW you need to do something to the gearbox. A taller 4th at the least. A 4 spider gear diff wouldn't go astray either and a different starter. That's where the subaru looks more attractive.

For about $3k, you buy a liberty manual. Steal the motor, trans, ECU and starter. Get one of these new reverse R&P gears for the diff and you'd have a 5speed EJ22/25 bus. All you need to do was get the loom stripped back. There would also cost associated with a fuel pump, and you might like to get a surge tank, but it would be hard. Rad wise. Do what helbus did. You could do it cheaper than that the custom veedub yourself too. Just depends how much you want to do yourself.

$3k for a donor? shiiiiieeeeeeet

theres good gen1 and the odd gen2 series1s on the road and registered in tidy nick for that sorta money, atleast around here anyway.

you can pick up shaggy bodied gen1s running beautifully for under $1k and even a few series1 gen2s for under $1500 if you look around
there was a hail damaged 97 gen2 with only 142k in the paper here for $1200 for weeks noone seemed to want

sure beats buying an unknown engine and hacked about loom from the wreckers

I meant $3k for the whole conversion or close to actually.

Joel wrote:$3k for a donor? shiiiiieeeeeeet

theres good gen1 and the odd gen2 series1s on the road and registered in tidy nick for that sorta money, atleast around here anyway.

you can pick up shaggy bodied gen1s running beautifully for under $1k and even a few series1 gen2s for under $1500 if you look around
there was a hail damaged 97 gen2 with only 142k in the paper here for $1200 for weeks noone seemed to want

sure beats buying an unknown engine and hacked about loom from the wreckers

Reckon I'm gonna have to venture down your way for my engine come the time as QLD car prices are plain retarded. $1700 for a late 80's Lancer or something WITHOUT a RWC!!!?!?!?!?? Not bloody likely. $100 for your gratitude of me taking it off your hands more like 🙂

early libertys can be bought quite cheap. A mate of mine got an auto recently, 90k on the clock.... $500, and very tidy too really. just got to look around.

pete wood wrote:I meant $3k for the whole conversion or close to actually.

thats better 😂
And yes true if your sensible, with my $500 donor if I'd done the sump and loom myself like i was going to originally mine would have come in under $3k engineered

Now this is the sort of info I'm looking for. thanks.

The subi box conversion... besides the diff stuff, how does the axle fitment go? Does it use the VW, subi or something else axles with an adapter.

What does the price of the trans conversion parts run, as opposed to the price of a converted trans?

Also what about drivetrain mounting? Does the subie drivetrain fit without having to do stuff like butchering the rear beam?

All these questions; I figured the full Subaru drivetrain conversion would have been a megabucks kind of deal rather than comparable. What catches my attention most is the stronger and 5 speed transmission.

Sad thing is about a year ago I could have afforded all this without the blink of an eye. But we were in the midst of medical mayhem and as anyone knows, it's a money pit.

I saw a rotary engine adapter on ebay cheap recently. Quite probably the only possible step backwards for a bay. Speaking of which, anyone have a spare type4 head lying around. I think I have another one to add to my avatar.

Hi General Failure,

Go to http://www.subarugears.com/ to get all the info on the subaru box conversion.

If you dont have to rebuild your current box then it is cheaper to buy the conversion stuff for it, but then it wont be as strong, wont be a 5 speed, wont be as smooth and wont be as quiet..

You dont have to cut the torsion bar housing. It fits in fine, you just need to make a few mounts for it. Are you trying to fit it into a Beetle or a Kombi ?

Thanks for that BlueV2. I saw a lot of info but nothing on the type 2. hasn't been done yet?

General_Failure wrote:Thanks for that BlueV2. I saw a lot of info but nothing on the type 2. hasn't been done yet?

If it fits in a Beetle then it'll fit in a Bus. May need some mods but shouldn't be too much hassle 😉