bel570 ·
can any one recomend who can lower the back of my65 beetle front is already done i live in yagoona nsw or ca give a hand with what to do or onxe to do a private job
Aussieveedubbers · Tech Talk
re lower back end rat 1965 vw
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/81170/re-lower-back-end-rat-1965-vw
vw54 ·
Vintage at Campsie
MISS VDUB ·
You could try doing it yourself... My partner found some good info on the web and did mine.
vw54 ·
you could but you need a protractor and the new bushes and experience
not an easy job if your not mechanically minded or done before
not an easy job if your not mechanically minded or done before
Bizarre ·
get it blue slipped before you go any lower
dogo ·
It looks good, why do you want to go lower?
...MISS VDUB do you actually drive with that suspension height?
READ THIS FIRST
...http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=81174
...MISS VDUB do you actually drive with that suspension height?
READ THIS FIRST
...http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=81174
MISS VDUB ·
Yep, and wouldn't have it any other way. If done right it's not a problem.
Get down low and go go go 👍
Get down low and go go go 👍
vorsprungdurchtechnique ·
Anyone car to share that info? I've seen some good info on how to lower the back end but people only talk about the turning of the splines. How about what you need to do at the other end of the spring plate? I started mine then lost confidence, wouldnt mind seeing some more detailed info.
djnee ·
I had no experience with working on cars at all, other than changing brake pads....and i successfully lowered both the front and rear of mine recently.
And the rear is a lot easier to do compared to the front. I'd say go for it.
From doing it myself i gained so much more knowledge of how my car works and what everything does.
Just take pics as you go, and if you're unsure of something just post on here and people can advise.
And the rear is a lot easier to do compared to the front. I'd say go for it.
From doing it myself i gained so much more knowledge of how my car works and what everything does.
Just take pics as you go, and if you're unsure of something just post on here and people can advise.
Phil74Camper ·
Basically, VW rears have a thick, rod-like torsion bar on each side, mounted acrossways. The end of them is covered by the end-plate with four bolts, which you can spot under the rear mudguards in front of each rear tyre. Each torsion bar is splined at each ends, which locate it in place. However, the number of splines at each end is different. The inner end, near the car's centre, has 40 splines, and the outer end in front of the tyre has 44 splines.
The inner end is fixed to the chassis, while the outer end has the springplate attached and a large rubber bush to locate it. The axle, in turn, is bolted to the other end of the springplate. When the wheel hits a bump, the axle moves up, which rotates the springplate and twists the torsion bar - one end is fixed, remember. The torsion bar absorbs the bump and because it's elastic, it then 'untwists'. You can simulate the torsion bar by holding a plastic ruler in each hand. Keep your left hand steady and twist the ruler with your right hand - feel it spring back. That's a VW torsion bar.
Now the torsion bar has a certain 'preload' on it, which the factory sets by installing the springplate to a certain starting angle (with the axle unattached), around 21 degrees down. You do this in the workshop by setting the chassis dead level with a spirit level, and measuring the angle of the springplate on the torsion bar with a bubble protractor. To adjust it, remember the splines! You can take the springplate off, turn it one notch and put it back on - one notch is 360 / 44 = 8 deg 10.9 min rotation. Or, you could leave the springplate on, and pull it AND the torsion bar out of the inner fixed splines, rotate the whole affair one notch and push it back - one inner notch is 360 / 40 = 9 degrees exactly.
In practice, you use BOTH inners and outers, like a vernier. Rotating the inner splines moves the springplate MORE than the outer splines, so to lower the car 'one notch' you rotate the inner down by one notch, then rotate the outer spine BACK UP the other way by one notch. This lowers the entire arrangement by 9 deg minus 8 deg 11 min = 49 minutes. The distance this lowers the car depends on the length of the springplate, which I can't remember, but for a length L (mm) the distance is L x 2 x pi x 0.818 / 360. For a springplate 500mm long, that 'one spline' change is 7.1 mm at the axle. Doing a three spline adjust would move the end by 21.4 mm.
You will need a bubble protractor to measure the angles. And be careful of the springing power of the springplates as you pull them off.
The inner end is fixed to the chassis, while the outer end has the springplate attached and a large rubber bush to locate it. The axle, in turn, is bolted to the other end of the springplate. When the wheel hits a bump, the axle moves up, which rotates the springplate and twists the torsion bar - one end is fixed, remember. The torsion bar absorbs the bump and because it's elastic, it then 'untwists'. You can simulate the torsion bar by holding a plastic ruler in each hand. Keep your left hand steady and twist the ruler with your right hand - feel it spring back. That's a VW torsion bar.
Now the torsion bar has a certain 'preload' on it, which the factory sets by installing the springplate to a certain starting angle (with the axle unattached), around 21 degrees down. You do this in the workshop by setting the chassis dead level with a spirit level, and measuring the angle of the springplate on the torsion bar with a bubble protractor. To adjust it, remember the splines! You can take the springplate off, turn it one notch and put it back on - one notch is 360 / 44 = 8 deg 10.9 min rotation. Or, you could leave the springplate on, and pull it AND the torsion bar out of the inner fixed splines, rotate the whole affair one notch and push it back - one inner notch is 360 / 40 = 9 degrees exactly.
In practice, you use BOTH inners and outers, like a vernier. Rotating the inner splines moves the springplate MORE than the outer splines, so to lower the car 'one notch' you rotate the inner down by one notch, then rotate the outer spine BACK UP the other way by one notch. This lowers the entire arrangement by 9 deg minus 8 deg 11 min = 49 minutes. The distance this lowers the car depends on the length of the springplate, which I can't remember, but for a length L (mm) the distance is L x 2 x pi x 0.818 / 360. For a springplate 500mm long, that 'one spline' change is 7.1 mm at the axle. Doing a three spline adjust would move the end by 21.4 mm.
You will need a bubble protractor to measure the angles. And be careful of the springing power of the springplates as you pull them off.
djnee ·
I can't disagree with that statement, as every car is different, but in my experience getting the springplate off was a very uneventful experience.Phil74Camper wrote:And be careful of the springing power of the springplates as you pull them off.
I'd expected something really scary to happen, going from what i'd read on various forums!
I just put a thick flathead screwdriver behind it and prised it off a bit....there was no loud bang or anything, and all that happened was the springplate dropped a few mm once it came off the stop.
vorsprungdurchtechnique ·
Thanks for the info, in order to remove the spring plate surely you need to remove the whole brake assembly? This is where I'm stuck! I cant see any mention of this in any guides on how to lower the rear end but at the same time I cant see how you could possibly remove the spring plate without disconnecting the axle end of the spring plate too???
Phil74Camper ·
The rear brake hoses on 6v Beetles are solid steel lines along the axle tubes, and where they screw into the wheel cylinders (through the rear of the drums). I don't think you need to disconnect them, you only need to unbolt the axle from the spring plate. Remember to mark the position first, as this makes sure the rear toe-in is the same when you put it all back together. The axle, with the complete drum and brake system still attached, will then just hang loose while you work on the spring plate. Yes, the factory setting has lots of spring power behind it, and it will go BANG when you level it off the stop. Once you get the splines set, you'll need to use a jack to lift the springplate back up and over the stop, against the force of the torsion bars, and screw the cover plate on to seat the bar, springplate and cover in position (longer bolts may be required temporarily). It's a procedure best done at a VW workshop if you are uncertain.
Yes the lowering procedure will not be in a VW workshop manual, as it was not a standard servicing procedure. The Bentley manual does have a section of removing and replacing the torsion bars, adjusting the springplates and setting the rear suspension - you are only modifying that procedure a little.
Yes the lowering procedure will not be in a VW workshop manual, as it was not a standard servicing procedure. The Bentley manual does have a section of removing and replacing the torsion bars, adjusting the springplates and setting the rear suspension - you are only modifying that procedure a little.