063bug ·
Aussieveedubbers · Buying, Selling & Swapping Cars
063bug
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/82195/063bug
koolkarmakombi ·
bajachris88 ·
063bug ·
[Edited on 11-5-2005 by 063bug]
063bug ·
[Edited on 11-5-2005 by 063bug]
[Edited on 11-5-2005 by 063bug]
063bug ·
[Edited on 11-5-2005 by 063bug]
063bug ·
[Edited on 11-5-2005 by 063bug]
bond ·
nick
063bug ·
063bug ·
[Edited on 11-5-2005 by 063bug]
063bug ·
[Edited on 11-5-2005 by 063bug]
ruckus ·
063bug ·
[Edited on 11-5-2005 by 063bug]
063bug ·
[Edited on 11-5-2005 by 063bug]
063bug ·
[Edited on 11-5-2005 by 063bug]
063bug ·
[Edited on 11-5-2005 by 063bug]
[Edited on 11-5-2005 by 063bug]
Octa ·
exwrx ·
I have always thought that white suits the round shape of beetles perfectly. It looks very straight and clean. :thumb
063bug ·
MikeM ·
What rear brake package did you use? Where did you source the slotted and rilled rotors, imports? or locally?
A bit more info on the brakes would be great.
Thanks.
063bug ·
I bought the brakes from Volksconversions (www.volksconversions.com) based on the Gold Coast. $50 for the slotting and $50 for the drilling per set (Front set and rear set, $100 each). Well designed as they just bolted on... if you read the instructions first... just a hint. I was happy with the result.... as you can see from the posting.
And a quick picture of the car when I bought it in 1990......
[Edited on 13-5-2005 by 063bug]
Dasdubber ·
It is a credit to you - the pictures don't do the paint justice....now all you have to do is drive it - REGULARLY!! 😉
Dasdubber ·
Dasdubber ·
063bug ·
GL1972 ·
We should do up a German look Calendar or at least post a collage of pictures of GL cars on here.
Show us some more pics of the interior. Also what are the specs of the engine?
Brendan
bugboymatt ·
Mad Manx ·
thats awesome mate......long live the german looker in Aust!
pete wood ·
but,
why was the bootlid open while you were driving along? :duh
063bug ·
There is a stand off unit installed to try and keep the oil temperature to acceptable levels. 😉
GL1972,
Nothing special in the engine bay (yet). A 1776, Std heads, heavy springs, balanced / blueprinted, berg deep sump, berg oil pressure relief pump cover, berg rocker shafts, 1.25 rockers, swivel feet adjusters, lightened flywheel, bosch electronic ignition retrofitted into 009, alternator, drilled and tapped for full flow and dual dellorto 40's (AN fittings and briaded hose where possible). :thumb
Dasdubber ·
Yeah c'mon mate.....start saving those pennies - I know you are lusting for a healthy 2110, or maybe even a 2332 😉063bug wrote:GL1972,
Nothing special in the engine bay (yet). :thumb
Seriously though, no rush....I know how expensive these things can be to modify!
GL1972 ·
I've got a 2110 and it is serious fun.
Alan is right ... save those pennies and make it the whole package.
Brendan
Fossil ·
063bug ·
I will be attending a lot more shows from now on... it's been in retirement for the last three years and it's time to drive it now... not just spend time and money on it.... such a waste if you don't drive it.... isn't that right Das.
Will get some interiour pictures up soon :thumb
Dasdubber ·
Too true! I am glad after all these years you've seen the error of your ways :P063bug wrote:.... such a waste if you don't drive it.... isn't that right Das.
063bug ·
[ Edited on 18-12-2005 by 063bug ]
[ Edited on 18-12-2005 by 063bug ]
lohoon ·
Dasdubber ·
063bug ·
Dasdubber ·
063bug ·
"I was lucky with the cost of the wheels as I managed to get the rims and rubber for $1500 off this forum. I have since changed the rubber which cost me another $800 for all four wheels. These wheels would normally go for ~$2000 for the set.
I used the Sherman disk brakes all round (~$2100) and all the wheels had an offset of ET52 (17x7.5). One cost to look out for with fitting porsche wheels is the cost of the 1.5x14 studs and wheel nuts as they are porsche (I still haven't found the gold in them yet??) and also that the nuts need to be the "acorn" type or the wheel nut seating surface will "flogg-out" due to insufficient surface seating (taper versus rounded)
I had to get the front beam narrowed by 1.5" both sides (as well as both of the tie rods) and the rubber is 205/45/17 which fits under the stock guard, just. Only very minor rubbing on full lock with two adults in the car.
The rear has 1500 axles and I do have flared guards (~1.5" each side), rubber is 235/45/17 and I might need a 1" spacer to make them fill the guards (might, but not required)."
If you have any further questions..... contact me and I will see if I can answer it otherwise I should be able to point you in the right direction
063bug ·
... so far the plans are 2332 engine and gearbox to match, plus kafer bar, front transmission mount, porsche cooling, etc
... pictures to come soon :bounce
Dasdubber ·
66deluxe ·
VWFREAK ·
Looks sweet.
063bug ·
[ Edited on 28-9-2006 by 063bug ]
063bug ·
[ Edited on 28-9-2006 by 063bug ]
063bug ·
.... sorry not a good photo
[ Edited on 28-9-2006 by 063bug ]
063bug ·
[ Edited on 28-9-2006 by 063bug ]
063bug ·
[ Edited on 28-9-2006 by 063bug ]
063bug ·
Thanks Damo, when are you going to update your build thread of "The Project"...... ? Are you going out to Warwick, 'cause if you are then you might be able to pick up your mount from Rod out there!!:thumb66deluxe wrote:063bug, love your car mate, mine is coming along at the moment, i just purchased a Kafer cup bar from o'seas, cost me $350. And i am still hassling Rod Penrose for my intermediate mount, my front Disc brakes are also on their way so hopefully i will be able to put my body on my floorpan within the next couple of weeks. Can't wait, cheers Damo.
063bug
GASBNR ·
Alan looks good, 1st time I've check it out on here.
OL
66deluxe ·
[ Edited on 28-9-2006 by 66deluxe ]
555bug ·
Cheers Stephen
063bug ·
[ Edited on 6-10-2006 by 063bug ]
063bug ·
[ Edited on 6-10-2006 by 063bug ]
reub ·
66deluxe ·
[ Edited on 7-10-2006 by 66deluxe ]
Dasdubber ·
What cam did you end up deciding on Alan?
063bug ·
I spent the weekend fitting the tinware and fibreglass shroud to the engine and still have a couple of pieces to do
And it was an FK8 cam in the end....
[ Edited on 8-10-2006 by 063bug ]
[ Edited on 8-10-2006 by 063bug ]
hellbugged ·
:thumb:thumb for cam choice
063bug ·
[ Edited on 15-10-2006 by 063bug ]
[ Edited on 15-10-2006 by 063bug ]
063bug ·
[ Edited on 15-10-2006 by 063bug ]
66deluxe ·
Dasdubber ·
Nice work Alan - did the gearbox arrive?
dangerous ·
Lookin' good.
Can you take a photo of the inlet port before the engine goes in?
What it the Dellorto Update Kit like?
Was there a big improvement, and what is in the kit?(did you need a rebuild kit too?)
You are going to cream your pants when you drive that thing!!
THUDKNUCKLE ·
well done again looks great
Turbo54 ·
T54
063bug ·
Thanks Dangerous... I am hoping for some cream :Pdangerous wrote:Hi Alan,
Lookin' good.
Can you take a photo of the inlet port before the engine goes in?
What it the Dellorto Update Kit like?
Was there a big improvement, and what is in the kit?(did you need a rebuild kit too?)
You are going to cream your pants when you drive that thing!!
I have attached a photos of the inlet port for you.
I have no idea on how the Dellorto kit performs as I have just put it in for this rebuild.... probably not the best idea doing all this at the same time... change the engine, gearbox, rebuild carbs..... I know that Dasdubber has also put an update kit in his carbs that drive the type 4 so he might be able to give you something.
When the kit arrived it did have a gasket kit included..
:bounce:bounce:bounce:bounce
063bug ·
But I got a little enthusiastic and managed to partially cross thread one of the two large bolts that go into the frame horns..... @#@%$^@ :cussing 😬 🙁 If anybody had rung at about 5:00pm yesterday they could have taken the whole lot for a couple of dollars.... soon got over that after a phone call to Rod Penrose 😢 ....and now she's back on track again all solved but slowly, slowly from now on 😉
Have attached a couple of pictures of the new box and of itpartially in the car. Planning a big day today.... more pictures tonight. :blah :blah :blah
[ Edited on 16-10-2006 by 063bug ]
063bug ·
Hey thudknuckle,THUDKNUCKLE wrote:hey there that is a sick looking dub just a quick question how does the dynamat perform in realtion to heat tranfer and sound deadning ?? and idea on prices and where to get it form to as i am loking at something like that also 🙂
well done again looks great
If I read what it says on the box all noise and heat will disappear.... it should be like driving in an esky :P
I picked mine up from a local autosound store and didn't do any ringing around but I got a bulk kit for $220 which is supposed to do the whole car..... might be pushing it but it would certainly do 80% of the major areas.
Thanks for the kind words. It's this forum and the people on it that inspire me.... Thanks :thumb
[ Edited on 16-10-2006 by 063bug ]
063bug ·
T54, I was wondering that but the box that it came in only talks about the installation on the inside of the car. I can't see why it wouldn't but it is a little expensive to just give it a try for me. The Dynamat company has a range of products though. www.dynamat.com.Turbo54 wrote:Would it help to put it on the underneath of the firewall also?
T54
Alan
063bug ·
[ Edited on 23-10-2006 by 063bug ]
063bug ·
Still got plenty to do, set the timing, adjust the carbs mixtures check eveything carefully tighten the wheel nuts, etc before I go for a test drive :bounce:bounce
[ Edited on 23-10-2006 by 063bug ]
063bug ·
[ Edited on 23-10-2006 by 063bug ]
reub ·
Gets me excited for the new 1916 and transaxle I'm getting for my 58...
063bug ·
... ran it without the decklid to allow as much air as possible just in case and the gearbox ran faultlessly, no noise, good ratio selection and painted to boot...
Since then I have topped up the gearbox oil, tightened up the axle nuts and put the pins in, put the lid on and tidied up the garage.... it's good to have it all back together.
... Sincere thanks to Rod Penrose with the engine, gearbox, urgent post deliveries and phone calls to sort out all sorts of issues..... Thanks so much 👍
[ Edited on 23-10-2006 by 063bug ]
Dasdubber ·
063bug ·
was a good day otherwise.
[ Edited on 5-11-2006 by 063bug ]
Joel ·
me and brenton noticed today that inside ur decklid was sprayed with oil and there was oil in ur fan blades
might be leaking?
-Joel
063bug ·
The oil cooler is remote mounted up above the transmission. I know that some oil is coming from the oil filler which I haven't sealed to the fan mount yet (realised this when I got home). I'm assuming that the oil that is being sprayed around the engine is coming from behind the pulley as the crankcase pressure maybe getting too high.... I also know that I have overfilled the crankcase with oil (few millimeters above the full line on the dipstick)
My biggest concern is the oil temp..... 😬
063bug ·
I finally got 'round to putting a small and crude scoop to redirect air into the transmission area. I set all the tappets, checked the timing , balanced the carbs, set the linkage and went for a drive.... yahoo :bounce, the temp over the same distance didn't get to 120deg it only got to about 110deg @ 105kmh.... and it was a warm day too (~34deg) very pleased 😁. When I slowed down to 90kmh the temp didn't seem to drop much, but at least it didn't get to 120deg. Next weekend I will try to fabricate something up that forces a lot more air into that cavity around the transmission. I might also get some of that thermo wrap. What is your opinion on the thermo wrap for exhaust pipes?
If I get the chance I might remove the oil cooler in the fan shoud to see what difference that makes.
[ Edited on 21-1-2007 by 063bug ]
whatnow ·
wouldn't moving the cooler into the fan shroud give you the same cylinder heating probs as non doghouse beetle shrouds? plus possibly mess up the airflow inside the shroud = potential hot spots on the cyls or heads?
dangerous ·
That oil temp was very scarey!
A bit better now, but still a little high.
Perhaps try turning the oil cooler fan direction around (wires' polarity),
to get the flow of air in a better direction.
The other thing to look at is minor jetting changes. Another 5 or 10 degrees reduction should be sweet.
The jetting should be checked with an oxygen sensor.
Also double check your sender is OK in boiling water.
063bug ·
I did have the fan sucking air through the cooler but thought that cavitation (vaccum) may not have been as efficient as forcing air into the cooler. I also put the fan under the cooler so it could catch the cooler air passing under the car and blow it up through the cooler. There is a gap between the cooler and the underside of the parcel shelf of about 100mm (to clear the kafer bar) so there is plenty of room on the other side of the cooler.
I checked my oil temperature with a NATA approved digital temp gauge from work that is calibrated every 6 months and both my car gauge and the temp gauge were only a couple of degrees out, so the oil is getting hot.
With the oxygen sensor is it the sort that is pushed into the exhaust or do I need something welded to the exhaust collector (hoping for the first one) and I'm guessing that this would all be best done on a dyno..... which leads me to who would you reccomend, who have you had the best dealings with?
... and, yes "whatnow" I have the same feelings about the cooler being mounted in the fan shroud causing hot spots but also preheating the air for cylinders 1 & 3wouldn't moving the cooler into the fan shroud give you the same cylinder heating probs as non doghouse beetle shrouds? plus possibly mess up the airflow inside the shroud = potential hot spots on the cyls or heads?
[ Edited on 22-1-2007 by 063bug ]
Dasdubber ·
I had my remote cooler mounted in the same spot as you on my old ragtop and originally had the fan sucking air through the cooler (fan mounted under the cooler)....I then flipped the fan over so it pushed the air through and it made a significant difference in cooling (ie. much better). So I feel you have it the right way in its current configuration.
I had the same issues with high temps in my type IV and unfortunately no matter what changes I made, I did not see an acceptable drop until I changed my fan shroud to the Down The Middle type from the US. I am not suggesting you do this (as the type IV had different issues to what you have), but I have my fingers crossed with some dyno tuning (unfortunately I have no recommendations) you can lower your temps.
Good luck mate :thumb
Dasdubber ·
063bug ·
.... I put the breather through the top of the air filter directly above the venturi..... idiot, especially as I didn't tie wire it, silicone it, bur the end of the threads or anything.... listen closely all you wanabe mechanics
Dasdubber ·
Thanks for clearing it up!
Now hurry up and get it sorted so we can hit a test and tune night at willowbank!
063bug ·
My next plan now is to play with the jetting in the carbs to see how the engine is running, so a dyno tune might be required... I just have to find one that I trust. My aimis to get the car to run at 110kmh and the oil to stay at ~100degrees or less.
I will take some photos next weekend of what I have done. The cooler stayed where it started as I really couldn't find anywhere else to put it that was either safe from road debris or moving components of the cars suspension, etc.
063bug ·
[ Edited on 30-1-2007 by 063bug ]
063bug ·
[ Edited on 30-1-2007 by 063bug ]
yeppo1975 ·
063bug ·
Dasdubber ·
bond ·
nick 🙂
Dasdubber ·
063bug ·
Dasdubber ·
063bug ·
063bug ·
063bug ·
Dasdubber ·
063bug ·
.... I wasn't able to work on it on the weekend as I was fixing a friends car on Saturday and then working on the rear deck on Sunday, so nothing to report from the weekend just gone.😵💫 🤪
Dasdubber ·
063bug ·
Dasdubber ·
Looks good mate - time consuming task but well worth it. 👍
Dero ·
Im curious to know, whether or not you are using a new wiring loom. Or are you creating your own. Where do you source all the differernt coloured wires or do you just use a couple of diif colours. Esentially what I want to know is how you are going about it.
Also are you upgrading eveything to a relay system similar to modern car??
Hope this makes sense, I cant say wiring is my greatest thing in the world, or that I have the most experience init. But I think like Dasdubber has said once done it great! Espically if done properly.
Cheers
Dero ·
http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=4367
http://www.painlessperformance.com/
some fairly interesting leads for stardar circuits... but im guessing most of Painlessperformance stuff is for the Engine in the front...
063bug ·
...fingers crossed for when power is added to the circuits... .... hopefully no gremlins 🥷 😬
063bug ·
reub ·
Better then the abortion under my 58 👍
Dasdubber ·
063bug ·
Das, where did you get your rollbar padding from as I now need some.... The cage went in reasonably well... little bit of sweat... bit of puzzle solving but success in the end... will post pictures of that as well.
And the engine..... still waiting for the CNC Wedge ports, 5.7" cromoly race rods and I think we are looking at a 9.5:1 compression ratio, fed by 48IDA's.... that's the plan so far.
Dasdubber ·
Good to see the cage went in okay - I got my padding from Autobarn at Moss St (slacks creek) but also got some temporary stuff from custom offroad when I needed the blue plate inspection etc (ie. until I got time to get to autobarn after it was all approved).
Alan
063bug ·
When you had installed the roll cage and the seats how close was your head to the seat belt mount...... Mines good for a temple hit.... might have to cut it off and try and use the original mounts....
Dasdubber ·
We never had your cage in brad's oval with seats to assess the positioning either.....would be nice to not headbutt anything like that in an accident! 😉
063bug ·
063bug ·
dangerous ·
42 inlets and 37.5 exhausts.
dangerous ·
and fitted these threaded sleeves to better locate the manifolds.
From new the manifolds are a loose fit
and the "match port" is a waste of time other wise.
Dasdubber ·
dangerous ·
I will shim them up however, since they are currently ruuning against the aluminium.
Compression will be around 9:1.
I will finalise it after some chamber tidying.
dangerous ·
Crank is an 84mm stroke, and rods are NOW 5.5" CB H-Beams with the ARP2000 bolts.
Alan told me the cam is an FK8.
I am not a real fan of this profile (unless it is the CB performance one),
but Alan is running it with 1.25 rockers so it wont be too harsh.
I think this will have around .47 to .500 lift,
but will let you all know once the geometry is completed.
063bug ·
dangerous ·
dangerous ·
This will give a longer skirt on the barrel for better piston support at BDC.
I also had to clearance the corners of the barrel for stud room(red arrow)
I was aiming to tighten up the deck height for better 'squish' and use a higher compression ratio.
The old piston to head clearance was over 5mm (around 4mm in the barrel and 1mm step in the old heads).
I have been able to keep the deck now under 1.25mm ,
and compression, due to the unshrouded chamber, will still be quite reasonable
and safe for regular use on pump fuel.
dangerous ·
but they did need some hand finishing
to remove these steps from the chamber to the seat.
dangerous ·
the heads were re-CC'd and assembled
with shims under the springs to protect the aluminium,
and also to even up the spring travel and tensions.
I also did some extra tidying of the seat blend to the port, and also some work to the valves and retainers.
bond ·
al must be pleased. look forward to seeing what hp difference come the next dyno day!? 🙂
nick
Dasdubber ·
westi ·
do you know if they are the wedgeport or ultra wedgeport.
and do know if anyone has flow tested the heads from cb,if so do they match what they say.
keep up the good work,should be a tuf combo.
dangerous ·
Valve lift was .480".
Most of the gains will come from the cylinder head its self,
and there is always room for gains in future from
fully ported manifolds,
larger carb venturis
larger lift and another point of compression.
Currently the combo should give slight wood to drive,
and give nice gains across the rev range.
Because the deck height is now nice and tight it will probably be more fuel efficient also.
dangerous ·
The ULTRA ones have a 46 valve I think.
I flow tested a set some time ago and they were in the low to mid 120's at .600 lift I recall(10"),
after some chamber work.
I only flow tested them at 10" and when converted to 25(or even 28") thet fell short of CB's advertised figures.
But that being said,
I think they are excellent value for money.
dangerous ·
Yeah Al',Dasdubber wrote:I know its not all about "show" but gee IDA manifolds look cool! (and even cooler when the IDA's themselves are perched on top!).
forget the whizzers,
go NA dude.
westi ·
i was always a bit sus about there figures,but for the money there great and they don't need to much work to make them even better as you have shown.
063bug ·
063bug ·
looking forward to the "wood" as previously I thought I was going to need some viagra for that illusive thrill...... 😁dangerous wrote:Currently the combo should give slight wood to drive,
dangerous ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
BTW love your ride man very sweet indeed👍
koolkarmakombi ·
063bug ·
I still have to sort out issues with the roll cage, mounting points, etc, issues with the new wiring loom that was installed, although 90% of it seems to be working a charm, the horn doesn't work and I'm not sure about the engine as I still don't have all the parts back from the powder coater to be able to fire it up (Christmas holidays and all that 😬). Have to get new An fittings for the new carbs, carb linkage, etc
I still also have to sort out the rear parcel shelf now the roll cage is in and wire the stereo back up again..... but apart from that's it's almost ready to go, half a wood due to anitcipation thou' 😊
Thanks so much for the kind words, it means heaps and re-inspires me. Thanks 😁
Golde60 ·
Also look forward to you telling us all how it drives now.
dangerous ·
063bug ·
The painting of the fan shroud didn't work very well and I got heaps of bubbles due to the magesium "breathing" which was extremely frustrating as I spent so long sanding and priming after the powder coating didn't work. So aestheticlly she don't look so hot.
Last night when it started and it started straight away, there was lots of black smoke coming out of the exhaust (very rich) so I adjusted the mixtures to 1-1/2 turns from the bottom and it produced less smoke but it seems I will have to play with the jetting....
....as far as Ettamogha is concerned, I will see how things progress this weekend after I take it for a test drive, maybe, as the throttle lever being the wrong one on the passenger side means I can't adjust the idle properly.
Alan
bond ·
look forward to pics al!
nick
063bug ·
063bug ·
063bug ·
Dasdubber ·
reub ·
fullnoise ·
I hope to see this thing in action at Warwick this year. I've only seen that engine in the back of a Commodore not a beetle!
I'm looking forward to seeing your car in the flesh too.
Top stuff.
CT
063bug ·
Thanks for the comments Reub-Revhead but you have a very tidy car as well
Fullnoise, yes, it would be nice to finally be able to drive to Warwick and actually compete
That said, there are still heaps of things I need to sort out... accelerator linkage so it doesn't get stuck in the full open position (that can get a little scary at times), find some air filters that aren't restrictive, fit under the boot lid and aren't made of unobtainium, get the paint touched up on the front guards, the rear panel and a few other places (have to talk nicely to Dasdubber I guess). And I need to get some drag racing practice in before then too. I need to get the stereo reinstalled and fix up a few minor bits and pieces (that seems to be a never ending list 🙂)
hellbugged ·
none of those qualify as an excuse for a "no show" at Warrick.........not even the throttle stuck wide open😂063bug wrote:Take it for a spin anytime you're ready Alan.
Thanks for the comments Reub-Revhead but you have a very tidy car as well
Fullnoise, yes, it would be nice to finally be able to drive to Warwick and actually compete
That said, there are still heaps of things I need to sort out... accelerator linkage so it doesn't get stuck in the full open position (that can get a little scary at times), find some air filters that aren't restrictive, fit under the boot lid and aren't made of unobtainium, get the paint touched up on the front guards, the rear panel and a few other places (have to talk nicely to Dasdubber I guess). And I need to get some drag racing practice in before then too. I need to get the stereo reinstalled and fix up a few minor bits and pieces (that seems to be a never ending list 🙂)
nice work again, there is something about your cars whole package........it all works well together😎
063bug ·
reub ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
063bug ·
063bug ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
063bug ·
hellbugged ·
only thing making it look like an engine are those nice big webbers
063bug ·
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=38974&page=1#pid354272.
Genuine buyer questions only.
$25,000 obo. Car is registered till Feb next year, new tyres all round, brand new engine with only ~200km on it. ~$15,000 on engine alone... see above link for more inormation.
063bug ·
reub ·
Don't mind my post here...
Seriously an awesome car you've put up for sale. Good luck with it all...👍
Best regards,
Reub
MISS VDUB ·
colonel mustard ·
063bug ·
063bug ·
reub ·
I'm always 'interested' mate, but have my hands full with the 3 I have up here (plus the 356 I'm taking care of, and subsequently have to work on...)
If anything I should be selling off a couple of my cars. Haven't driven VWRX since Oct 08🙅
barls ·
063bug ·
Location - Tarragindi, South Side Brisbane, 4121
Contact Name - Alan
Method - ?? bank cheque, money into bank account, not for exchange (swapping), delivery will be arranged with buyer.... ??
colonel mustard ·
dangerous ·
I just went through and re-read all the pages.
It turned out pretty sweet after all the years of ownership.
I got a surprise too, looking at the youtube link,
87000 views! And that was with the 24hp lower engine combo!(before the heads were changed)
Good luck with the sale,
and hope you still have some vice left to express yourself....😂
063bug ·
Method - email - PM - your choice..... upon receiving any messages I will give my mobile number.
Included with the sale is any workshop manuals, magazines, spare parts, etc.
The spare parts include the majority of original trim from the original stock car and every effort has been made so that the car can be restored to original condition if desired. I still have the original manuals and some other documentation. Other spare parts are performance parts that haven't been used etc.
JUST TO BE CLEAR THERE IS NO INDIVIDUAL COMPONENTS SALES, MOTOR, WHEELS, SPARE PARTS... IT'S A JOB LOT. If the buyer decides to sell off bits to fund the purchase that's their call. Having said that I may decide to hang onto the number plates if the sale price isn't high enough.
ANY GENUINE questions will be answered honestly. This is not a car yard and anything you want to know about the car will be answered.
PM/email me for any more information. I will check back on the site frequently until sale.
This car has been much loved and a lot of money has been spent on it to get it to look the way it does currently with a trial and error method and not done on the cheap.
A youtube link for anyone interested
Regards
Alan. (063bug)
Craig Torrens ·
wow thats some big $$ on a motor !063bug wrote:See link for some of the builds and some of the detail on this car.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=38974&page=1#pid354272.
i$15,000 on engine alone.
Its a great looking car, best of luck with the sale.
h ·
cam070 ·
063bug ·
063bug ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
If only it was this time next year and i was in my new house all comfortable with a garage to park your car in Alan.
Good luck with the sale mate! Again if it doesn't sell let me know and I can slowly work on the wife to see things from my point of view!!
johny rotten ·
I like the IDA 's
063bug ·
063bug ·
...it's worth waaaayyyyyy more than I'm selling it for and I've had it for 20 years.... as far as I am aware it's only had one accident, 3 (maybe 4) owners, not bad for being 47 years old
lardo ·
Nice car its a credit to you. But you have not got a hope in hell of selling it on here. It has to be free or as close to free. Please dont get me wrong but dont just rely on here.
And watch out for Barls the post natzi.
063bug ·
063bug ·
I've owned the car for 20 years and it has never been in an accident in my care and FINALLY I have been asked to present the car for a photoshoot for FAST FOURS AND ROTARIES this week.... so the car will be worth WAAAAAYYYY more soon... so get in quick 🙂
All calls to 0400 080 699.... 👍
jjwebb123 ·
its like watching porn on dial up 😁😁😁 lol
063bug ·
063bug ·
Craig Torrens ·
matberry ·
Craig Torrens ·
Dasdubber ·
Craig, working life means the car will be driven on actual roads and not just polished in the garage 😉
Hehehe...just kidding Alan, I think its destined for some circuit and drag racing in deregistered form although Alan may be able to clarify this.
Al
hrastovica ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·