I am having a bit of trouble setting up my carby on my beetle, its a solex 30 PICT 2 but I am at a bit of a loss. The car idles no worries but dies and pops and carries on when you take off. Any ideas what could be wrong and where I could head?
Cheers
AJ
Phil74Camper ·
Could be the accelerator pump is not working - the diaphragm might be torn or rotted away. Have a look down the carb throat when you open the throttle - it should squirt.
Your local specialist VW parts shop should stock the parts you need.
scotlander ·
I had the same problem with my carbie, I called out the RACV and was told that there was a lot of crud in the carbie coming from the fuel line or tank as the car had sat for 2 years without running. The jet in this carb is tiny so any small amount of crud will stop it working.
The mechanic took off the air filter, and revved the hell out of the engine then slapped his hand over the top of the carbie blowing all sorts of crud out of the exhaust, the car ran well after that, you could also get some carbie cleaner from supercheap and blast some of that into the carbie.
At least yours will idle, mine just died.
Hope this helps,
Scott
jacky_moo ·
have u checked for air-ingress? ie air leaking IN to the carby/intake?
how are the boots on the bottom of the manifold, also the carby itself are you getting any air leakage?
ive currently got a 30pict2 on mine and have only just gotten the damn thing to run properly... was leaking air at those manifold boots
AJPerkins ·
Cheers guys
thats a good place to start, the diaphragm seems fine, it squirts fuel into the carb no worries, maybe it's a blocked jet. The car has been sitting for a while, I've cleaned it out but perhaps I'll have to start again.
Could it be an air leak at the inlet manifold? The nuts were loose as a goose so I'll probably need new gaskets.
Another brain buster
With the idle mixture screw where does that have to be set (approx) I am talking about the tiny screw on the opposite side of the carby to the main adjustment (long screw with spring)
I had a look at it and the screw was jammed all the way in, I've taken it out one and a half turns but I am not sure if that is right?
Any Ideas?
One last thing,
is it worth looking into other types of carbies with a different filter as well or is it best to stick with the original factory carbies!
Look forward to hearing any ideas!
AJ
snowman9 ·
"cleaned it out but perhaps I'll have to start again" Yep, probly. Does this thing have a big screw ( idle air adj. ) and little a screw ( idle air mix adj.) ? Have you located the fuel filter, checked and changed? Is everything tight? A good way to test is to knock-off your mum's or significant other's ( or, if you do your own ironing) water spray bottle. Spray on the joints when idling. If sound or RPM changes you have air-leak. Locate and rectify. : )
snowman9 ·
Check valve clearances.
jacky_moo ·
to clarify what carby are you running .... i thought the 30pict2 were a single screw not a double
further to snowmans comment i usually use a propellant of some description ie WD40 to find a leak but different strokes.... before adjusting the carb make sure the valves and timing are set right..
make sure your engine is warm and the choke butterfly standing upright. Make sure the air cleaner is ON when adjusting the carburettor--the engine expects it to be there.
* Turn the Volume Control Screw in all the way - GENTLY PLEASE. It is a needle valve, and you don't want to enlarge the hole by forcing it home. Now unscrew it 2.5 turns. This is the starting point for the adjustment.
Note: The Volume Control Screw controls the AIR volume, not the fuel volume. Screwing it in reduces the air and makes the fuel/air mixture richer. And of course turning the Volume Control Screw out increases the concentration of air and makes the mixture leaner.
* Start the engine, and turn the Idle Adjustment Screw in or out to set the idle at 850 RPM. I'll let you work out how to measure 850 rpm - but it's a fast idle. (See our idle adjustment procedure.)
* Then turn the Volume Control Screw in slowly until the engine speed begins to drop, then turn it out until the engine runs at its highest idle speed. It should still be within about ½ turn from the start setting of 2.5 turns. If the hole has been damaged by a previous careless person, you'll just have to do the best you can. Now screw it in until the revs 'just' start to drop - about 30rpm. This is the final setting.
* Reset the idle speed again with the Idle Adjustment Screw. Don't slow the idle too much, 800-850 is about right. VWs need a few revs at idle to keep the cooling air flowing, otherwise when you coast to a stop at the lights after cruising at a good speed, your hot engine won't get enough cooling air, and it won't like you very much.
AJPerkins ·
Righty o will have a look, Didn't explain myself too well but I will just have a go and see how i go.
Cheers