Have had the 2002 engine for a while and decided to get it ready. Problem is the 2002 on manifold is different bolt pattern, and if not an STI manifold has Tgv valves (butterflies) just above each intake port. TGV delete and port job was the first project and while I holding a dremmel and carbide bit, I ported the exhaust headers.....see grimmspeed website for info. Can bring boost on upto 500rpm earlier.
Then we needed top feed injectors and aftermarket rails, so I got some sti pink 550cc injectors. I had the turbo smart pressure reg and gauge from a while ago.
New turbo is a tdo5 16g (not big 16g) that had the elbow entry so I changed the compressor housing for a straight entry one and knife edge ported the intake. I then took off the exhaust housing and ported the entry/exit and most importantly the path to the wastegate. This sharp bend is a major cause of over boosting in turbos running high boost as the air cannot escape quick enough in the short amount of time the aftermarket boost controllers expect them to.
Next is the new up pipe which I made out of stainless as well as new crosspipe(also see grimspeed for power gains due to unrestriction). Even though they are in lovelly ceramic blue, the whole system will be ceramic coated to keep heat in the system prior to the turbo. There have been big problems with aftermarket headers made of cheap material and due to the length of system, loose heat and energy that should be spooling that turbo. They also crack. s you can see my turbo has been turned slightly, so I will show you what I have planned for the airfilter in a couple of days.
Cannot wait to get the engine in and on the dyno. Will be tuning at 20psi
Finally waiting on phenolic gaskets for the manifold that resist heat....also on grimspeed site.
Matt
boof2332 ·
here is the exhaust manifold, they are exactly the same size as the head, although often they are not bolted on aligned and cause steps in the exhaust.....this simply eliminates restriction.
boof2332 ·
First one of the motor.....
boof2332 ·
Had to also space the throttle body out to stop it hitting on the newer manifold. Redesigned the mechanism so the throttle cable can run straight to it rather that doing a U turn as on car now.
boof2332 ·
finally the up pipe.... what a pain tring to hold the turbo in the correct spot while I welded it. Ended up using tie wire and hung it from above.
rocknrob ·
xclnt! i'm all for reducing spool up time...planning all that porting next time i have mine apart👍
boof2332 ·
this will be the next manifold when I get a spare $1899
hellbugged ·
can we get a look at how you did the cross over pipe please?
OZ Towdster ·
Is it just the photo or have after all that exhaust manifold porting , you used a standard crush bent exhaust tube ????
boof2332 ·
That is just the mock up tube to get the angles right. The stainless pipe is mandrell that is on the car now, I am going to cut and reweld it when I get the old motor out tomorrow.
The standard up pipe has not only a massive reducer, but also has an up pipe cat.
Even so, a small angle press bend is not going to make a noticable difference compared with the steps that occurr in a stock manifold.....unless we are runnning 9 secoond cars.
Will be doing some extensive modifications to the mounting system as the intermediate mount weld has partly torn a crack in the drivers side fork.
Will do something similar to the Junka oval bracing...
Matt
boof2332 ·
got a mandrel bent pipe and a new flexi joint and welded it in place. It sits closer to the engine than the standard. See www.grimmspeed.com for their one...mine just has a bigger flexijoint, as that is all my exhaust guy had in stock.
The stock pipe for sone strange reason drops 10mm in diameter before going into the flex joint. ???????? and its pretty small to start with.
hellbugged ·
thanx
Jak Rizzo ·
I definantly noticed a difference when I ported my headers & made a bigger crossover pipe, the drivabilty, if possible, was even nicer & boost comes on at 2350rpm & thats with a standard TD05.
Can't wait to see what power it puts out, it's going to be nuts!
regards
Jak
hellbugged ·
hey Boof....do you have the standard air intake pipe for the 2002 motor? (filter to turbo).
mine has a crack and searching for one
1303Steve ·
hi
This thing is going to be scary fast.
Steve
boof2332 ·
I do not have one, however you should just make one...I am sure it will be smoother than the stock one. Best is to just post on rexnet, thats where I got my manifold. OR
The guy who I got it off has a workshop in QLD...his name is Danny, try him on 0420 837 008 and say Matt from sydney with the beetle told you to call him.
Matt
Escort ·
Nice work. how much more powerful do you suspect it will be than the old motor?, and do you think it will effect the handling much?
boof2332 ·
With substantailly more flow from the turbo, better exhaust, bigger injectors and later model motor, I am hoping for 30-40 kw more.
That said, end dyno power does not necessarily make a fast street car...boost on hard and fast is what I want.
Handling will not change.
Matt
hellbugged ·
so 200-220 K.W.....ish at the wheels?
how much you running now?
STIDUB ·
hellbugged wrote:hey Boof....do you have the standard air intake pipe for the 2002 motor? (filter to turbo).
If i could get hold of a samco one i would go silicon........picking the quality of all the others on offer seems a bit of a lottery
thanx for the grimmspeed link boof, very interesting stuff there........have you dealt with them before?
STIDUB ·
hey boof, blue manifold so it lowers temps as opposed to a red one going faster right? 😂
boof2332 ·
Sorry for the late reply hellbug. I have not dealt with them personally, although alot of references on Nasioc forums which is awesome if you have not ben on there, as well as scoobymods.....
I am hoping for 200-220kw although boost response and an early, flat torgue curve has always been my first aim. As i drive it pretty much every day, instant throttle response with the taller first and second gears is essential for wasting new M3's, 997's etc. My little vf 24 was awesome for response although ran out of puff a little up top..as you would expect when you look at its cfm at 14 or 18 psi.
The other reason my car was quick to respond was due to the dump pipe design and splitter size and shape. I have used the same design on the last two dump pipes I have made which just so happen to look exactly the same as the design Michael South uses after years of testing on his race cars. http://www.msengineering.com.au/exhaustsystems.html
He is who you speak to about an engine rebuild!!!!!
my intake pipe to the turbo has always been made myself using mandrel bends welded together. I do not have any pipes or lines running off it though....still would be easy to weld required bits on if required.
The motor is in at present to work out final turbo position and subsequent changes to exhaust. I am also making use of the abundance of room on the gearbox side of the adaptor plate, to rig up some additional bracing for the motor etc. Will post pics when done.
Only issue I have left to resolve is one of clutch disc choice. I have a 228mm pressure plate with increase clamp force. I have always used stock german sachs disc with no real slippage problems although with the extra power, I am looking for an alternative. there is a 6 puc 228 disc from kennedy although am a bit concerned about driveability. There are very few options in that size and 5 years ago when we did thje conversion, sherman only offered the 228 size flywheel. Any thoughts guys??? are the 6 puc discs a pain??
Matt
rocknrob ·
you could get one of those pommy bellhousings which allows use of subaru clutches and flywheel😎
hellbugged ·
thanx heaps, links helping a lot!
yep stick with the 228mm.......notch killed 4 puc with standard pressure plate right from day one, then went to four puck + 2500pd kep and works well........but yes engagement is harsh.
you want to get rid of the springs but as soon as you do that, the "feel" becomes very ON or OFF......depends how/where you drive...........liveable yes!, but you don't want to be riding the clutch when parking or leaving lights etc............give yourself room and let the sucker out in one go.......
so yeah.....i'm thionking 6 puc will be your best option
Yes I did steve, the stock gasket is quiet a bit larger than the ports. I got told about extruion honing a while back and aparently works well at smoothing out the imperfections.
I think i mentioned it previously about keeping the stock exhaust over headers for keeping in heat and thus exhaust speed prior to the turbo.
Interesting read on the michael south website where he mentions having a 3 inch exhasut and some where prior to the tip he drops it to a 2.5 inch. Theory is that there is a point where the energy lost in heat then starts to effect velocity and thus actually creates pressure. The slight narrowing of the pipe keeps flow constant.
Thats why ceramic coating works so well i guess. My question is approximately how far along the exhaust does this occur given that my exhaust is not as long as a wrx's. my exhaust me exit prior to the air slowing enough to have an adverse effect. It has noticeable improvements on torque when the reducer is used.
I guess i can make another rear section after the muffler and take it to the dyno and see.....only way to tell i suppose. Everyone I know who has been in my car, think i waste too much time on all these little improvements...and ask how f@#king fast do you want this thing to go......what a stupid question!
Matt
JVLRacing ·
boof2332 wrote:Thanks for the clutch advice...
Yes I did steve, the stock gasket is quiet a bit larger than the ports. I got told about extruion honing a while back and aparently works well at smoothing out the imperfections.
I think i mentioned it previously about keeping the stock exhaust over headers for keeping in heat and thus exhaust speed prior to the turbo.
Interesting read on the michael south website where he mentions having a 3 inch exhasut and some where prior to the tip he drops it to a 2.5 inch. Theory is that there is a point where the energy lost in heat then starts to effect velocity and thus actually creates pressure. The slight narrowing of the pipe keeps flow constant.
Thats why ceramic coating works so well i guess. My question is approximately how far along the exhaust does this occur given that my exhaust is not as long as a wrx's. my exhaust me exit prior to the air slowing enough to have an adverse effect. It has noticeable improvements on torque when the reducer is used.
I guess i can make another rear section after the muffler and take it to the dyno and see.....only way to tell i suppose. Everyone I know who has been in my car, think i waste too much time on all these little improvements...and ask how f@#king fast do you want this thing to go......what a stupid question!
Matt
Finally! MS a very smart bloke, ive had lots of talks with MS
The exhaust theory is correct...
my one was ceramic from dump which is 3inch(from turbo).....
headers 2.5 ,wernt ceramic....
From wastegate to opposite header down pipe was 2.5 ceramic
I actually still have the ceramic pipes boof if u want a pick! the headers are gone thou😎
Jak Rizzo ·
boof2332 wrote:Interesting read on the michael south website where he mentions having a 3 inch exhasut and some where prior to the tip he drops it to a 2.5 inch. Theory is that there is a point where the energy lost in heat then starts to effect velocity and thus actually creates pressure. The slight narrowing of the pipe keeps flow constant.
Matt
Michael made made my dump pump as well, as he lives here on the Coast. Michael said that the 3 inch to 2.5 inch theory won't work with us as we have such short runs to the muffler, which also explains why our cars don't really have a definitive boxer sound as such, purely because we don't have a couple of metres of drain pipe running under the car.
regards
Jak
1303Steve ·
Hi
You could probably tune the exact amount of back pressure that a smaller tailpipe would produce with a Supertrap muffler.
Steve
cam070 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
You could probably tune the exact amount of back pressure that a smaller tailpipe would produce with a Supertrap muffler.
Steve
You could also possibly do some calc's based on exhaust gas temp to determine gas volume.
Matt, if you need a hi-temp probe, let me kow, I'm just on the other side of Pennant Hills and have something that should do the trick.
boof2332 ·
I suspected the length would negate the need to reduce size like you said Jak.
Onto the clutch disc... i must have been hitting the crack pipe a little hard when i deducted that my clutch size was 228mm as it is a 2l kombi which is 215mm.
I now need to find a 215 6 puc/kush lock or similar.....any suggestions. I could always run a 200mm disc, which I have an abundence of choices. The extra surface area is there for a reason though. Kennedy are out of stock.
Matt
boof2332 ·
Hey JVL,
Where are you living now???
Matt
JVLRacing ·
boof2332 wrote:Hey JVL,
Where are you living now???
Matt
Hello Matt, long time😎
Ive been watchin ur progress,lookin the goods mate...
Livin in coffs mate still......
JVLRacing ·
boof2332 wrote:I suspected the length would negate the need to reduce size like you said Jak.
Onto the clutch disc... i must have been hitting the crack pipe a little hard when i deducted that my clutch size was 228mm as it is a 2l kombi which is 215mm.
I now need to find a 215 6 puc/kush lock or similar.....any suggestions. I could always run a 200mm disc, which I have an abundence of choices. The extra surface area is there for a reason though. Kennedy are out of stock.
Matt
look up this link www.034motorsport.com ....this is where all my goodies are comin from, they will billet one up for u all might have goodie there for u
guru ·
Hey Matt,
I've used a guy in Brisbane to build clutches for me on a couple of different rides.
Cant remember the bus name.
His name is Nick 07 32779403 at Archifield.
Stock with different springs, brass button, what ever.
He will build what you want to suit your hp.
Lots of knowledge.
Simon.
hellbugged ·
yeah Boof, there are guys in Sydney who do custom clutches for sure. Resuface your old one etc........also dangerous had to chase something special up for Adlers type3 a while back
........bit of side tracking here.....went the punt and grabbed a silicon induction hose from ebay after hearing these may have been from the manufacturers for SAMCO and indeed they must be!.......quality is even better than in photos and yes indeed, samco without the "label" for sure. happy days. I'll be testing out some of the grimmspeed stuff for us soon too
Nice work on the purchase of the hose. The guys in the states speak highly of the grimmspeed products.
I have had a few guys suggest getting the disc resurfaced, so thats probably the easiest. Will keep you posted when it gets on the dyno..Still have a few bits and pieces such as fabricating new intake pipe and exhaust, which will keep me busy till the clutch gets done. have just finished bracing the rear a different way and replacing all suspension rubbers to tighten it all up again.The intermediate mount on the forks had torn away on the drivers side...and thats with hardly any "hard starts"
It wont happen again....and the car is a few kg's heavier for the exercise.
Matt
pete wood ·
heavier?
time for some racing holes in the car.... and a diet for matty 😁
STIDUB ·
diet? just cut about a foot worth of leg out, still feel small after meeting the guy 😂 usually im the tall one!