New Kombi Project

Hi Guys
I thought i would start a thread for our new kombi project.It will take a while, full restoration,so i will just use this thread for any questions or photos.

Im not sure what it is yet(as in year) so will be uploading some photos for some help.
We plan to do it completely proper,time does not matter as long as it is done properly.

So will be needing all the help we can get.😂
Will post pics shortly.
~Jas~

Heres the pics.

Would anyone please be able to point me in the right direction,as to where to find some numbers.
ie,vin & chassis. Hoping the picture will help.
Thanks👍

Hallelujah!!! i found them.had to degrease and pressure clean but found them.Now i just got to find out what they mean.

here they are.....

*2202175035*

8MD 360

Please help.
Thanks🥲

taking a guess its a 70 model

Thanks pod for the reply.
i was thinking that as well. but not entirely sure.
1970 lowlight microbus.?

Also has anyone replaced a wiring loom in one of these things.?
the cables have been removed for the battery.

bump
please/..

Vin and wiring questions answered here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/ look at the top right of page for technical tab.

Thanks empi,i was aware of that vin section on samba.but i thought being US it would not be
suitable in aus.
Thanks

There are only about 6 wires for a type 1 engine and are mainly a main power wire (very thick) for the battery to ignition switch, wire from the battery to the regulator then over to the generator, generator warning light, carby choke solenoid power, further carby solenoid, wire to the coil and earth wires.

Make sure your earth wires are well grounded as this tends to be a common problem.

The fact you have no engine will probably casue a few performance issues.

By the way your bus is either a 69 or 70 deluxe microbus model with unboosted 4 wheel drum brakes wide 5 stud pattern wheels.

Great starting point though. Get stuck in!

Cheers,

Scott

Scottkombi wrote:There are only about 6 wires for a type 1 engine and are mainly a main power wire (very thick) for the battery to ignition switch, wire from the battery to the regulator then over to the generator, generator warning light, carby choke solenoid power, further carby solenoid, wire to the coil and earth wires.

Make sure your earth wires are well grounded as this tends to be a common problem.

The fact you have no engine will probably casue a few performance issues.

By the way your bus is either a 69 or 70 deluxe microbus model with unboosted 4 wheel drum brakes wide 5 stud pattern wheels.

Great starting point though. Get stuck in!

Cheers,

Scott

Thanks scott,for your really helpful reply,its greatly appreciated.😊

Starting to sit down and think about and plan the restoration now.I think my first move will be to buy replacement panels depending on finance.Then replace the rusted areas when possible.The engine will be last ,or just about.Whether that is the right thing to do or not,I dont know.🤪

Once the rust is removed and kombi is straight.I am hoping to get it soda blasted then immediately sealed.

The interior side of things hasn't really crossed my mind yet.But if anyone could suggest when would be the right time to install all that stuff,it would be great.

The other thing that i want to do is get a rev check done.To make sure that it is not stolen. I have never done one of these before,so i am not sure if the two numbers that i found would be adequate enough for such a search.

So that is where i am at for the moment,will keep you posted.I will just ask all my questions here instead of cluttering the forum.

Thanks for listening.
Happy motoring.
~Jas~

Hi Jason
A nice project basis. Be careful to preserve the aluminium waist-line trim, fresh-air grill aluminium surround and the fron bumper with its rubber insets, as these are 'deluxe' trim pieces and not easy to replace/source.

hth

modulus wrote:Hi Jason
A nice project basis. Be careful to preserve the aluminium waist-line trim, fresh-air grill aluminium surround and the fron bumper with its rubber insets, as these are 'deluxe' trim pieces and not easy to replace/source.

hth

Oh really thanks mate i did not know that.
Will chuck them in storage for the time being.
Thanks.
~Jas~

Pretty sure from chassis no. it is a 70 Deluxe- a great model to restore.Best of luck and keep photos of resto coming

-----

Thanks Warrenm.Yeh i agree they look great.
Has anyone had any troubles registering a kombi if the compliance plate is missing.?

jjwebb123 wrote:

modulus wrote:Hi Jason
A nice project basis. Be careful to preserve the aluminium waist-line trim, fresh-air grill aluminium surround and the fron bumper with its rubber insets, as these are 'deluxe' trim pieces and not easy to replace/source.

hth

Oh really thanks mate i did not know that.
Will chuck them in storage for the time being.
Thanks.
~Jas~

Even keep the damaged bits there is a bloke in Melb who can bring it back to life. Speak to Brad at Bus'n Bug upholsterers.

yeah thats good to know.I never knew they were hard to trace.
Thanks

My word i thought you had my Kombi for a sec.. Wouldn't believe how much it looks the same!

Shame the plate is missing from behind the drivers seat as it give month and year of manufacture but as you know already a deffinate 1970 deluxe.

look forward to seeing the resto photo's.
Goodluck.

I do not know too much about the history of this kombi Mike so it wouldn't surprise me.Yeh i think everyone seemed pretty firm on 1970 deluxe,so that is what i have been calling it.I have been stripping it.like previously mentioned in preparation for sodablasting.Just got some questions for anyone who has restored kombis before.

front end stripped.
(leaving glass in for now to keep weather out)


I was wondering if anyone has ever had to replace this section before.if so is it hard? can you buy that section?
Its the right hand rear window.The only window with rust😬.







Also the deluxe doors are pretty much stuffed.I have a standard lowlight and i was wondering if there is anything special about the deluxe model doors if not would it be fine to use the lowlight doors on the deluxe.I have done some measurements and they are practically the same.
???

DELUXE


LOWLIGHT


Also is the valance under the sliding door a big task.Sorry for all the questions,but would be interested to know.😊



Well thats about it for know.will try to do a bit more today.
look forward to your replys.
Regards Jason.😎

bump

The valance under the sliding door is easy. The new ones are available. Takes about 8 hours to fit one properly, but easy.

so just standard remove spot welds and weld new piece in?

Pretty much that's how it is.

Add some skill and patience to get you through it.

jjwebb123 wrote:so just standard remove spot welds and weld new piece in?

helbus wrote:Pretty much that's how it is.

Add some skill and patience to get you through it.

jjwebb123 wrote:so just standard remove spot welds and weld new piece in?

yeh ok thanks
appreciate your reply

replacement panels can be ordered online at http://www.thebusstop.com.au/store/2/5/ if you need them or from other suppliers

yeh i think i will be buying most of my parts from the bus stop.
they seem quite good quality and price.
cheers

jjwebb123 wrote:I was wondering if anyone has ever had to replace this section before.if so is it hard? can you buy that section?
Its the right hand rear window.The only window with rust😬.

DasDubber has done that section in one of his previous posts, complete with good photos. It'll be a bit more fussy job than the valance under the sliding door.

See this post:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=65571&page=1#pid625504

jjwebb123 wrote:is anything special about the deluxe model doors if not would it be fine to use the lowlight doors on the deluxe

I think there are no differences between the lowlight and highlight doors; however there were a number of variations of the internal trim (I think the deluxe had armrests) including air venting, so see if your 'deluxe' door trims will fit on the lowlight doors to retain originality.

hth

It looks like your lowlight doors are 72 ??? if they are they will fit,about 74 up had different doors,just remove the sliding airvents inside bottom corners on the 72 doors because 71 dont have them,and just drill holes for your delux trim to go back on the out side 😁 cheers shane.

modulus wrote:

jjwebb123 wrote:I was wondering if anyone has ever had to replace this section before.if so is it hard? can you buy that section?
Its the right hand rear window.The only window with rust😬.

DasDubber has done that section in one of his previous posts, complete with good photos. It'll be a bit more fussy job than the valance under the sliding door.

See this post:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=65571&page=1#pid625504

jjwebb123 wrote:is anything special about the deluxe model doors if not would it be fine to use the lowlight doors on the deluxe

I think there are no differences between the lowlight and highlight doors; however there were a number of variations of the internal trim (I think the deluxe had armrests) including air venting, so see if your 'deluxe' door trims will fit on the lowlight doors to retain originality.

hth

ahh yeh of coarse i didnt think of that.Yeh will check the trim out.Will depend how original i want to keep it i suppose.thanks will check out the thread.Im on lunch break at the moment.lol

kombisaint has some window sections for sale which might be useful to you:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=85315

hth

yeh thanks peter.They look in pretty good shape.
While im here..

Is there anything difficult about removing the
entire dash.I have always been hesitant due to wiring.
but i want it out,so it can be soda blasted and painted.
Thanks.

bump.

jjwebb123 wrote:Is there anything difficult about removing the
entire dash.

Compared with any 'modern' car, air-cooled Kombi wiring is prehistorically simple. Disconnect the battery before you start. Tag ever wire and digitally photograph everything. Pour lubricant down the heater control cables and the speedo cable. Replace the 4 self-tapper screws which hold the binnacle on with screws 10 mm longer. Proceed steadily. Watch out for spiders. Floss regularly to prevent gum disease.

hth

modulus wrote:

jjwebb123 wrote:Is there anything difficult about removing the
entire dash.

Compared with any 'modern' car, air-cooled Kombi wiring is prehistorically simple. Disconnect the battery before you start. Tag ever wire and digitally photograph everything. Pour lubricant down the heater control cables and the speedo cable. Replace the 4 self-tapper screws which hold the binnacle on with screws 10 mm longer. Proceed steadily. Watch out for spiders. Floss regularly to preven gum disease.

hth

well there are no cables in the engine bay as is.(battery)
ok yeh pretty much how i was going to approach it.
Thanks Mate

If it has never been removed (the dash) there are four little plastic clips that hold the vent levers onto the inner lever sections. These are a cow to get out and you need to remove the stereo to get to them. Other than that everything comes apart fairly easily. The fuse box slides (up) out of the steel cradle it comes in and you can leave this hanging by the wires. Try to disconnect as little as possible and just let it hang. If you are spray painting - place all the wires in a bag the tape it up.

Dont forget to remove the battery cables first as mentioned by Jason - flossing is a good idea as well.

Cheers,

Scott

thanks scott

Hey guys.Bit of an update.
Started removing the dash and stuff this week.It is all unbolted and just sitting there,
got to get same tape for labeling and so forth.One question tho.
How do you remove the god dam steering wheel?😬😂

Got the top horn bit off and the main big nut,but it wont pull off.
Any tricks associated with it.?
Thanks😵

Try some penetrating liquid on the splines (Penetrene, WD40 or similar). Leave for a day. Shake and jiggle. Worst case, you'll need to borrow a hub puller but I would try the slow way first. Mine came off relatively easily with persistence, 'though it seemed stuck at first.

hth

Yeh ,i thought that would be the case.
thanks pete.👍

If you have been following this thread you would know that i intend on sodablasting the kombi.But im not quite sure what to do underneath.

Some say sandblast it and then get it primed and (splurged?) where the paint looks like a golfball.that is what most cars have.

Other say sodablast it while your on it ,primed and normal paint?

Also got to put into consideration i am leaving the two axles in,engine and gearbox gone,as well as wheels.

Any previous experience or any help at all would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanking you Jas.😊😊😊

b.b.bump = D

just remember when trying to get the steering wheel of by jiggling and pulling ,is to leave the nut on a few or more turns as a steering wheel in the face isn't pretty 🙄

I saw a kombi on the kombi Club that had been completely acid dipped in a bath (a very big bath).

After a few dips the kombi looked like brand new sheet metal.

This avoids warpage to panels and gets a great result.

The underfloor shouldnt matter but if you sandblast you will spend a few weeks trying to get the sand out before spray painting. The sand gets in everywhere.

Cheers,

Scott

Thanks Scott.
yeh that is true,i have almost finished the rotisserie,i think sodablasting underneath may be a waste of money.
i might see how much pressure cleaning will remove the rust.
And let you know.
cheers.👍.

Just another update.
so far it is pretty much a bare shell now.In the process of making the rotisserie.Just some more cross bracing to do and mounting to the vehicle.
Check out the pictures.

Nice, where did you get the plans for the rotisserie, or did you design it yourself?
Could do with one for my kombi... dreading painting the underneath on my back!

vertecal wrote:Nice, where did you get the plans for the rotisserie, or did you design it yourself?
Could do with one for my kombi... dreading painting the underneath on my back!

Yeh the same reason i am building one.Much easier for soda/sand blasting and priming and so forth.Mate i just googled around.Until we found one that wasn't too complicated but worked.search around here,there are alot of threads about them.Here is a couple places i found some ideas.the first link we are following pretty much exactly,just adding a couple things here and there.
good luck.


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=59815&page=1#pid566424

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=175412&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=5d17452ef9620d1299a0a30f4b0aae49

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=78275&page=1#pid794653

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=85258&page=1#pid799220

Hey,just and update.The rotisserie is done and we are starting to remove the running gear.To make it a bit easier to spin.How do you disconnect the handbrake and how do you disconnect the steering arm from the running gear arm? i thought it was a pin but it looks welded.Pics below.
Thanks in advance

bump,,please.

Hand brake should be a pin IIRC....must be rusty

Pitman arm normally a puller is required, drop the drag link from the pitman arm and the steering idler using a tie rod end removal tool, tie rod pickle fork, or at worst the two hammer method.

hi matt.
sorry mate i dont quite understand,what you mean.
could you be a bit clearer.
Thank you.

HEy Guys.
Removed all the running gear.so is pretty much a bare shell now.next step would be the blasting,, wether soda or sand.I am thinking sand on the bottom first and then prime it for now.god dam finances 🥲
check it out.

so...have you finished this project yet?😏 just jokin..this looks great, but jeez i don't envy you, you've got some serious work there. but in the end it'll all be worth it.
cheers Johno