engine seals

How difficult is it to replace front and rear engine seals in a 1600?

baghall wrote:How difficult is it to replace front and rear engine seals in a 1600?

the front seal next to the gearbox/transaxle..
the engine has to come out...
to replace it...
do the gearbox seal while the engine is out...

the rear engine oil seal -- there is NO rear engine seal..
just an oil slinger behind the crankshaft pulley..
so, if You overflow the engine with oil... the oil will come out from there... lol..
so, nothing to replace there...

LEE

the glan nut is kinda annoying... was it 37mm socket???
it's suppose to be done around 250 ft-lbf ish
so 3/4" drive socket on breaker bar
i broke a 1/2" quality supercheap brand
and ended up just weld a socket on a scaffolding pipe
quite useful socket set to have since its the same size as the rear drum axle nut

also lock the flywheel with a bar of some sort drill holes on the bar and put bolts thru etc
don't use the mounting studs you'll bend it

oh yeah if u don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 250 lbf
i suggest making a bar 1m long and apply (lbf x 0.1512)kg on the end

36mm socket required for the flywheel gland nut.

Well!
Started the job and had no end of trouble getting the gland nut undone. Tried rattler - no good, tried brut strength - ended up havin 3 days off work with muscular problems in shoulder and still not loose, loaded engine and took it to mechanic - undone with mother of a rattler. Now putting it all together and have done nut up till breaker bar is bending like crazy.
Hope it's tight enough as I can't get a reading on torque wrench.
Shit of a job to do!

baghall wrote:Well!
Started the job and had no end of trouble getting the gland nut undone. Tried rattler - no good, tried brut strength - ended up havin 3 days off work with muscular problems in shoulder and still not loose, loaded engine and took it to mechanic - undone with mother of a rattler. Now putting it all together and have done nut up till breaker bar is bending like crazy.
Hope it's tight enough as I can't get a reading on torque wrench.
Shit of a job to do!

Without going into details again, read.:

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=84647

This relates to a rear axle nut torquing but same for gland nut.

Not a hard job at all if you have the right info and equipment! If you have injured yourself with a strain then you did it all wrong. 😂

Have you got the 3/4" drive with a 3/4"bar to slip through it? If not you are only 25 minutes from me so a quick drive over and you can have one for future for axle nuts as well as the gland nut! Cost? Nothing! I usually work on the fact that it's better to give than to lend as it usually costs the same in the long run. 😂 You can have a seal installation tool as well if you like. Too much junk hanging around the shed!

Once you have the bits they last for years. Still using a flywheel lock from the 60s! Only good if using an engine stand or the engine is complete with heads etc.

DH

Gidday 1500S, Thanks for the offer of the bits,very generous of you, but I have fabricated the pieces I needed and your pictures have given me an idea for another as well. I think the shoulder problem was actually a combination of doing the gland nut and an office installation the same day. Over doing it.

baghall wrote:Gidday 1500S, Thanks for the offer of the bits,very generous of you, but I have fabricated the pieces I needed and your pictures have given me an idea for another as well. I think the shoulder problem was actually a combination of doing the gland nut and an office installation the same day. Over doing it.

NO NO NO!!!

You did it at work.... lol

LEE

baghall wrote:Well!
Started the job and had no end of trouble getting the gland nut undone. Tried rattler - no good, tried brut strength - ended up havin 3 days off work with muscular problems in shoulder and still not loose, loaded engine and took it to mechanic - undone with mother of a rattler. Now putting it all together and have done nut up till breaker bar is bending like crazy.
Hope it's tight enough as I can't get a reading on torque wrench.
Shit of a job to do!

Will Keep that in mind when i get off my a** an do mine ... good thing is i work in steel engineering and we have big f*off pneumatic tools 😀

Geez I've never had a flywheel come loose in 15 years of knocking these things toghther just using a 3/4 breaker bar with some gal pipe over the end and a bit of angle bolted to the flywheel

Check my mainseal replacement thread to see what I mean.

You do it enough times you tend to get a feel for what whats right torque by hand

baghall wrote:Gidday 1500S, Thanks for the offer of the bits,very generous of you, but I have fabricated the pieces I needed and your pictures have given me an idea for another as well. I think the shoulder problem was actually a combination of doing the gland nut and an office installation the same day. Over doing it.

I didn't think any office work was so strenuous to strain anything! 😂

Still remember an office bitch at AMP (that's Aircraft Marine Products electrical terminals!) at Northmead complaining about the heat when she walked out of the office into the Toolroom. We never noticed any difference as it was hot all day in the summer and cold in winter.😬

Glad you've found a solution. Gee it's hard to give some of this stuff away. ❗ 😂

DH

Well got it all together today, but have decided that the herbie movies only gave the nice side of beetle personalities because mine is a stubborn bastard. Either that or i'm a dumb buggar. Started engine and when i engaged clutch thrust bearing started to complain seriously (only replaced about 2 months ago) and is not engaging properly so I can't get car into gear.
Engine out again! (maybe tomorrow)

baghall wrote:Well got it all together today, but have decided that the herbie movies only gave the nice side of beetle personalities because mine is a stubborn bastard. Either that or i'm a dumb buggar. Started engine and when i engaged clutch thrust bearing started to complain seriously (only replaced about 2 months ago) and is not engaging properly so I can't get car into gear.
Engine out again! (maybe tomorrow)

Did you bend the friction plate either removing or replacing engine??

DH

Well won't know without pulling engine again. I did have an issue with the clutch plate not being centered properly first time I tried putting it in. Didn't think I caused an issue but will obviously have to look at it.

baghall wrote:Well won't know without pulling engine again. I did have an issue with the clutch plate not being centered properly first time I tried putting it in. Didn't think I caused an issue but will obviously have to look at it.

Looks like you also need a clutch centreing tool!

DH

1500S wrote:

baghall wrote:Well won't know without pulling engine again. I did have an issue with the clutch plate not being centered properly first time I tried putting it in. Didn't think I caused an issue but will obviously have to look at it.

Looks like you also need a clutch centreing tool!

DH

Over the years, I never ever used a clutch centering tool...
just did it by eye.. lol
once the clutch pedal is pushed down it self centers..
it has to be very close to do that.. naturally... lol

LEE

I actually have a clutch centering tool but got from supercrap autos and it is only plastic. I have done clutches before in other cars without centering tools no problems. I have to take it to my mechanic as I have a bad back and it is at it's end with bending over and lifting things while working on clutch. Thems the breaks. Will also get rego check done as running out of time to prep car for rego. Nee to get some rust and welding done as well as new front tyres for rego.

Yeah, I have never used a "clutch centering tool" done a few clutches on a few different types of cars and the first time I had a problem I just turned a timber spigot wth the different diameters to insert through the clutch and into the crank, worked a treat so thats what I do now.