floor pan painting

how much por would you use do do a pan,front beam and rear suspension

I would be thinking 4 L most likely.

greeno72 wrote:how much por would you use do do a pan,front beam and rear suspension

I used every bit of 1L to do this. That's three coats on the pan and beam, and the rear suspension bits like spring plates, covers etc.

It doesn't seem like alot but the paint goes a very long way, it was surprising.



Smiley 😎

I was just planning on using black 2-pac paint... Is POR much better? where did you get t and how much is it? Cheers

It's probably one of the best products out for rust prevention, provided you use it correctly.

There is an online supplier, but I bought mine from a local welding shop.


This is the site of the Australian supplier of POR15

http://www.ppcco.com.au/restoration.htm?gclid=CMb6goCCuKMCFRepbwodjTXGaw


And this is a very similar product that is Australian made.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/



Smiley 😎

Was that 3 coats by brush or by spray?

Newt

I pretty much used 1L to do paint my pan, 3 coats by paintbrush top and underneath. I agree it does seem to go a fair way. I wouldnt buy any more than you have to, as it goes off very quickly even with resealing the tin air-tight. I would recommend buying 1L, and maybe a 250/500mL tin just in case, which you could then use for other bits and /or touch-ups.

I've hand painted two pans with Killrust Gloss Black which is available from your local hardware store at a very reasonable price.

I use about 1 litre to give the pan and suspension two coats.

I use a good quality, long bristled 2 inch paint brush which by the time the job is over is looking a big ragged as I daub the paint into all the nooks and crannies.

The first coat is thinned down enough to be sprayed on, to make sure that it goes everywhere.

The second coat, which is not thinned, is applied just before the first coat dries so that they both stick well to each other.

The second coat is slathered on to get as thick a coat as possible.

It takes a few days to dry as the pant is so thick. I usually give it about a week in the sun.

So far that has worked well for me.

lol,

am i the only guy that has ever used hammer coat on a pan? 😂

I love the texture, it hides aesthetic flaws and suppose to be excellent rust protection. it goes a long way.

Mind you, i can only recall me bein the one to use it. POR for the win with its reputation though. 👍 can't exceed it.

Newt wrote:Was that 3 coats by brush or by spray?

Newt

With a brush, and quick thickly applied on the last coat. Just to use up the last of what was in the tin.



Smiley 😎

Thanks Smiley,

Did you put colour over the top of the POR 15?

Cheers

Newt

Newt wrote:Thanks Smiley,

Did you put colour over the top of the POR 15?

Cheers

Newt

hahahahahahaha, no

It's a dodgy old Baja 😂😂😂

But you can. hough you have to remember POR 15 isn't UV stable, that is when left in the sun it fades very quickly. It doesn't ruin the sealing or rust preventative properties in any way, just the colour.
When I do my Buggy I'm probably going to topcoat it because I can see it seeing alot more sun and I want it to look it's best.

It is also recommended in the painting instructions if you leave it more than 12 hours that you rough it up with sandpaper (can't remember the grit). Because POR 15 loves having a rough surface to grab onto. I've found the best results with parts that I've sandblasted first, left out in the weather for a few days to get surface rust then painting. The paint actually loves being applied over light surface rust, they recommend it!!

On the other side of the coin it doesn't stick very well to very smooth surfaces. And I have had a little bit peel off galvanised metal, which I used for the side rails on my floorpan.


You can also have a read through my build diary from page 7 when I started painting.

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=80275&page=7


Hope this helps.



Smiley 😎

Done a few pans with por15 now, not sure about leaving blasted metal to rust first though. Great product has the rust control and prevent factor and because it moisture cures takes awhile to harden propery, but when it does it is extremely hard.
Brushing is the easiest way, the product flows for quiet a while so looks like spray painted when dry. Be careful read instructions and any data sheet you can get, if old pan and not blasting, look at the metal treatment deoxidising system first to neutralise surface rust.

Have fun, oh and by the way clean it off your hands straight away, if it drys its there till it wares off, maybe ware gloves.

It does say on the instructions not to use a rust neutraliser product first as it will effect the stickability of the POR15. Just paint it straight onto the surface rust. Well thats what it says.