Kafer Bar / Torque Bar

Hi All,
The Kafer / Torque type bars that run over the top of the GBox and to and from the front and rear of the frame horns for strength / supprot...

Do they need to be adjustable or can i simply weld in a bar arrangemnet that triangulates and strengthens???

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?PHPSESSID=876b7a5912bef283e93e85800e7f85a1&topic=7816.30


Plenty of different versions around... (yes i know craigs kit is excellent and easy to use)

bump

Make it easy and use the kit. 🙂

I do think it is important to be able to adjust the tension/load that the bars exert.

Here is my 2 cents, I`m currently using the truss bar from Bug Pack (ref the link above) but I have modified it by adding a chromoly tube over the top tube because it bends when you tighten the truss bar. Other than that it fits perfectly fine and there is no need to cut the car. No wheel hop, 371 WHP turbo/efi.

Best rgs
BB
Norway

Aussie
The adjustability is mainly there to make it easy to install, not all VWs are the same size and shape, there were broad manufacturing tolerances, especially 40 or 50 years ago. You could make them with no adjustment to suite your car. There is a need to be able to remove the rear braces to get a swing axle gearbox in. Then the top bars must be removed because it mounts to the shock bolt, which needs to be removable so the shock and the body can come off. The position also relies on the length of the shock bush etc. You could make them fixed, but they must be removable. The shock bolt is the best place to mount them because that’s where the action is, at the top of the shock. Just as the further out the fork you can get the better. That one in the pictures that’s all in front of axle tubes and under the shock mount so it clears the body would not be as good. That’s why it’s so heavy duty but stil it would felx the shock towers and forks out past the brace.
I was interested to see that one that used Heim joints on the top bar, and then has brackets from that bar to the rear with Heim joints again. The top bar would be free to move. Seems to me that would tramp like a brass band. Who knows? Good luck with it, Nothing’s impossible.
Cheers
Tony

yup what he said 🙂
if you have the pan off just make a nice setup and weld it up

Does anyone else in Australia make these bars or anything else that will strenthen the rear? I've asked Craig but he has none available at the moment..
I'm also after a Rhino trans kit and a HD trans cradle..

Sorry to hijack but didn't want to create similar thread...

Cheers,
Steve

BeetleBug wrote:Here is my 2 cents, I`m currently using the truss bar from Bug Pack (ref the link above) but I have modified it by adding a chromoly tube over the top tube because it bends when you tighten the truss bar. Other than that it fits perfectly fine and there is no need to cut the car. No wheel hop, 371 WHP turbo/efi.

Best rgs
BB
Norway

Hey BB,

How did you add a chromoly tube over the top tube?
Did you cut the tabs off and then re-weld them back on?

Andrew