I wont have access to the Club Vee Dub website soon, a new webmaster is taking over so I wont posting updates on my car on the club website. I'm in the process of moving all my build files to another server, so for the mean time I will post updates here.
With the new engineering laws for modified cars coming along soon I thought that I should get my finger out and get things happening.
If you haven't seen what I've been upto, I'm fitting a Porsche G50 transmission and 2003 Sti motor to a 1303, I've been working on it since September 2004.
Steve
Photo time.
After seeing the success that everyone is having with smaller radiators I ditched the massive one that I used in my old 1302 in favour of one from an 1983 Audi 100/200, I also already had a fan and housing from an earlier Audi 100 5E. it bolts up to that later radiator OK.
itawolf ·
cant wait to see more
vw54 ·
get back to the garage
seagull ·
The never ending story
waltermitty ·
I love the feeling of peanut butter sticking to the roof of my mouth, whats wrong with you Steve?
Mitchell
Joel ·
Nice Rack 😉
How was the old owner getting air to the rad with no hole in the valance?
that one looks too good to cut up/replace
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm scared or peanut butter & angle grinders.
The photo doesn't show the cut out properly in the front apron.
I'm happy to be going back to this Audi fan, when I used it last on my old bug, when it came on it was like blowing compressed air on the ground, chip packets, dust and sticks would blow everywhere.
Steve
pete wood ·
hey, is that a racing slick on the front drivers side? 😂
1303Steve ·
one of the special Dunlop B7+
1303Steve ·
Hi
I just had my Simmons refurbished and the widths and offsets changed. They are now 18x8 with a 40 ET.
To make them look right I will need to pick up an inch in the front which I will do with 944 hubs. I needed to go to this offset to get the outer rims looking the same front & back and the rear 944 alloy trailing arms would only work with this offset and Aero mudguards.
Tyres are Federal 595 RSR, 225/40x18 & 255/35x18 the same type we use on my son Davids bug, a street race tyre, that's good in the wet and will be OK on track.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I know whale tails are not considered cool, but they do have a benefit, larger engine bay and better cooling, not mention increased downforce at high speeds.
I've got the old familiar fibreglass itch, I had to cut the gills in the top.
There is another section to go on the top as well, this will be adjsutable.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
As a consequence of moving the transmission & motor 100 mm forward to axles are getting a little too friendly with the shocks, so I had to make them, lean over a bit for some clearance.
Steve
STIDUB ·
steve, got any pics of those wheels fitted up? im curious how thats right since mine are ET+6 and sit nicely, are you using a spacer on the front to keep them looking even f&r?
1303Steve ·
Hi Dave
I ran 17x8 inch front wheels on my yellow bug with a 10 ET. My wheels are 40 ET with a 25 mm thicker hub will be 15 ET, close enough to 10 ET or your ET.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I got the wing and rear Aeros mounted, the rear wheel sits nice.
Steve
ElusiveStranger ·
Dump that tail.
It's gopping.
You know that fat chick you pulled one night when out on the razzle?
She may have looked OK to you that night...
Then you woke up
"Waisted. I thought she was a stunner. Waisted, she was an eighteen tonner" (Naked Apes)
Seriously though, make your own mind up. You have to drive it
pete wood ·
I don't mind the RSR tail as long as it fits in with the rest of the car. I reckon that's the man issue with them looking naff on other cars... and it beats having to stuff round with water/air intercoolers if you can get it to house the intercooler too.
crsedge ·
1303Steve wrote:With the new engineering laws for modified cars coming along soon I thought that I should get my finger out and get things happening.
When do the new laws come in? Is there a site to read what the restrictions are?
By the way, looks great!
Cheers
Craig
1303Steve ·
Hi
The new laws are supposed to be coming in January, but they have been saying that for years. There is soem posts on this sight about it.
The engineer that I've been dealing with has said that he will chuck it in when they start, I don't want to go to another engineer if I can help it.
I spoke to another engineer near to me he said " you've done what? have you calculated the CC to car weight factor etc" he calmed down after a while.
I'm getting a stock lid painted as well so if I don't like the tail it can get the flick.
Steve
johny rotten ·
na na na na na na na na Batman
pete wood ·
😂
johny rotten ·
Holy Moses boy wonder 🙄
Quick too the bat cave
Camo ·
Steve,
I reckon it will look good and it only comes down to what you want, and as you said there is also a purpose or two for running this rear wing. Love the aeros, I will have to get over there one day and have a look if you dont mind.
keep working, Kev.
beetleboyjeff ·
I don't mind rear wings, and I reckon that is quite a good looking one. Can't wait to see it in real life.
Jak Rizzo ·
nice work Steve
The only opinion worth anything is your own, you're the one that will have to drive it.
Jak
hellbugged ·
yeah looks phat as!
come on Steve, where are some updates?
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks for the encouraging comments, I've been working all weekend that's why I didn't go to Warwick.
I should get some more done next week, hopefully off to the painters in the next week or so.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I just fitted some Toyota Kluger side markers to the front 1/4.
Steve
Birdman ·
Exactly the sort of thing i was looking for steve, nice mod!
Guess it demonstrates i dont look at Klugers😂
And don't worry about copping flak for your wing, when they see my part 'W' part GT2 part new beetle deckild they will gag 👍
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm always looking for things to use from other cars for use on my bug, I have a Kia or Hyundai fold out cup holder.
I think the same side marker is used on other Toyotas as well
We can start a big ass wing club.
Steve
DylanTheDubber ·
hahah yeah steve the wing looks madd it goes with the areos and buldge rear valance, you definatly on the same wave lenth as me with this project everything so far i like , Engine , Wheels , Body kit and parts , air con design and much more i love it all. keep it up steve looks phatt mean lookin supa 75 L
From Dylan
Jak Rizzo ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
I'm always looking for things to use from other cars for use on my bug, I have a Kia or Hyundai fold out cup holder.
Steve
please show us the cup holder, I'm not joking.
Jak
1303Steve ·
Hi
The real go fast goodies are coming out now, dual cup holders.
I'm going to mount this on the centre base of the dash I think or maybe under the glove box.
Its from a Daewoo, I bought it on eBay ages ago.
Thanks for the kind words Dylan and everyone else.
I'm always looking for things to use from other cars for use on my bug, I have a Kia or Hyundai fold out cup holder.
Maybe I can blame you then for being a bad influence
I already get the digs about it being less VW every day 🙄
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm a bad influence on you Joel, just blame me in future.
Ian I have one of those cup holders already from CIP, it doesn't show it in the photos but its mostly made of wood.
Steve
Birdman ·
I was eyeing off the cup holder in my wifes accent just the other day. Should fit in the buldge that the ash tray occupies.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Like my favourite serial killer Dexter I like to drink and eat while I drive, my Hi Lux has really cool single ones and my really old Hi Lux had dual ones sort of like the Daewoo one above.
I think that I've hit a bit of interest fro VW owners, the cup holder photos have been down loaded 40+ times.
Steve
Jak Rizzo ·
1303Steve wrote:the cup holder photos have been down loaded 40+ times.
Steve
yeh , that was me😂
jak
1303Steve ·
Hi
On another thread I found a company that sells DIN radio panels, they have heaps of different cup holders go to http://www.aerpro.com
Just think, a centre console with a few guages, your stereo and then this little drawer with some cup holders. Sweet 🙂
Shame you can't see how good the cup holders would be 🙁
Craig
🙅
did you break a nail while ironing your last blouse?!
cup holders?
give your beetle to me. I don't need cup holders... I lived without gloveboxes in my car for years.
Craig S ·
Hey Pete,
Last I checked your job (and your previous job) didn't require you to get up early in the morning and sit in traffic for a long time. Must've been a shock for you this year having to get up early enough to get a child to school 🙂 Some of us appreciate our morning coffee to make us human when we get to work 🤓
Perhaps if you added cup holders you'd like your car so much you'd stop trying to sell it????? 😏
And BTW, you're not getting my Beetle, you'd only do evil things to it, Gwendolyn knows she's safe with me.
matara ·
Steve,
Don't put a Daewoo cup holder in your dub, get one of these instead that slot into your ashtray from mooneyes in Japan:-
Car is looking good Steve, I like the 911 inspired snorkel on the wing.
Cheers
Steve
Joel ·
Just a bummer those ones dont work in Lbug ashtrays
pete wood ·
Craig S wrote:Hey Pete,
Last I checked your job (and your previous job) didn't require you to get up early in the morning and sit in traffic for a long time. Must've been a shock for you this year having to get up early enough to get a child to school 🙂 Some of us appreciate our morning coffee to make us human when we get to work 🤓
Perhaps if you added cup holders you'd like your car so much you'd stop trying to sell it????? 😏
And BTW, you're not getting my Beetle, you'd only do evil things to it, Gwendolyn knows she's safe with me.
It was a shock and I've decided never to do it again 🤘
If cupholders and power windows (owned!) are your biggest concerns you need to decide if you want a beetle or a camry... oh that's right, you already have one...
...and you're right, I would do something evil to your beetle 👍 coz I'm sick of waiting for you to do something...
BTW, if you wanna hit me up for being soft, you might like to take into consideration the lack of stereo, sound proofing, doors, and a heater that takes 15 mins to warm up... and lets not even talk about the rearvision mirrors that don't seem to work at all. I consider somewhere to put my wallet and phone a luxury. Everything else is just extra weight to slow you down....
1303Steve ·
Hi
I already have a cup holder for an L bug, I bought it from CIP, it works OK but is a bit big & clunky when not in the dash and I like using my ashtray for storage.
I'm taking the body off the pan again in a few days and then its going to get soda blasted and then off to the beater.
One of the jobs I need to do is fit the new "air con" front apron. As can be seen it comes with pre-installed rust, that's why I like idea of Mexican seals.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
OK body off the pan now, no surprises which is good, the car body has not been on the road or track since 1983 so that would be expected.
I need to finish a few things off then its off to get blasted and painted, then I can concentrate on the pan.
Steve
Bizarre ·
1303Steve wrote:As can be seen it comes with pre-installed rust, that's why I like idea of Mexican seals.
I hope VW sacked whoever designed the seal / clip thing that holds that rust
I cry every time I see some one do a fantastic build and they have kept the original trim 🙅
As for cup holder I have one that was custom made for the tunnel and sits in front of the shifter 👍
ricola ·
Hi Steve,
How are the sway-a-way axles? I'm just at the point of ordering them now. I think I should bite the bullet and get G50 size axles and stubs rather than using he carrera 4 trans end flanges and type 2/944 axles and CVs. Any recommendation for suppliers? Were you happy with the final length? I'm hoping I can get away with a standard length...
Rich
PS Are you still on the same email? I wasn't sure when you said about having this thread instead of the old build page...
1303Steve ·
Hi Rich
The axles seem to fit up OK with heaps of splines, I put some tape on them so that they didn't get scratched, paint lifted off where bit of painted over rust was.
I bought mine via a local guy, I think he got them from the USA from a guy called ugly.
I cant remember the length now but they wouldn't likely be anything like a standard Porsche length.
I've sent a PM with my new email
Steve
Ben386 ·
Awsome stuff Steve!
1303Steve ·
Hi
Body has been soda blasted and is now at Cooltop Smash in Peakhurst getting the body prepared for paint, this weeks colour is Porsche Blood Orange, I don't think that I will change my mind again.
If you dont mind me asking how much did the soda blasting cost? Did it show up any more repairs required before paint?
1303Steve ·
Hi
It was $900 but that didn't include mudguards or engine lid. Its a very gentle process it even left the factory seam sealer in the drip rails, it wont remove rust or thick nicky.
This body has not been driven since 1983, there was no rust at all in the rear window area.
The finished photos don't do it justice, the finish looks like you see in the factory assembly line photos.
Old repairs can be seen as a different shade to the rest of the body.
I've just been around at the panel beaters rust treating all the bits I welded in firewall area with some product from Wurth, now on with pan.
Steve
hellbugged ·
great steve
Keep that ball rolling, looking forward to this one
ricola ·
Getting into paint is a great motivator! 👍
1303Steve ·
Hi
In a previous life this car was sports sedan running a 12a rotary motor
I've been busy on the pan.
I had to call on expert help from Brad a Westside mufflers to weld up my alloy mirrors after I cut the attaching legs off. The mirrors need to be painted with rest of the car so Brad kindly fitted this fiddly job into his busy schedule. It was made fiddly because these early Falcon GT replica mirrors appear to be die cast and were bitch to weld.
I'm using the stock mirror mount holes and using cutdown stock mirror stalks, this way I can change mirrors without having to drill new holes in the door, I ran the same mirror stalks on my old yellow bug but with XA falcon mirrors.
Steve
Camo ·
You are definitely a thinking man Steve, good idea. Great to share all these little tricks with others and with a smear of filler the mirrors will look like they were factory made for the car 👍
Kev
GTMac ·
Looking good Steve, cant wait to see paint. How many times you changed your mind now?
Are they Simmons V5's your running?
Cheers, Andrew
STIDUB ·
^^^ we will find out when the 100s of 4vent lids come out of hiding that have all been sprayed various colours 😂
the mirrors look the goods steve 👍
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks for the comments guys.
I may have forgotten a few colours, black, Mercedes silver, apple green, CTs silver, vermilion fire, Suzuki GTi yellow, phantom purple.
The Porsche blood orange is very close to looking like vermilion fire that was used on Falcon GTs in the 70s
The wheels are Simmons OM or open mesh.
Steve
pic is a Blood Orange Porsche
PS forgot VW harbour blue and Holden Marine blue
1303Steve ·
Hi
Pissing down today, cant do much on the chassis because Davids bug will have to sit in the rain, so I went to visit the bug today. That's the problem with a small garage.
I'm fitting air con to the car, so the inlet grilles were welded up as well as the LHD wiper holes. The extra holes in the bulkhead is where the stock dash fan will draw in air.
Hows this for a rust free air box? I'm going to use the stock air box drain tube on the evaporator housing and I've fitted a smaller OD drain hose in case any moisture gets into the air box.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Doors and bonnet waiting for paint, I treated the firewall area with rust converter
1303Steve ·
Hi
Still working on the pan, had a bit of a setback, the reinforcing that I planned to add to the lower part of the torsion bar tube makes it impossible to get the gearbox in or out, I need to rethink this with maybe a bolt in section.
Had a win, I hooked up the shifter to the G50, apart from needing to slightly straighten preset bend in it it all fitted up without any shortening or lengthening of the shift rod.
All the panels in are in primer now, the shell needs a few more days on it then it will all be painted. I had a test paint swatch made up in blood orange, looks good.
Steve
HappyDaze ·
A bit hard to tell from the picture, Steve, but that looks a bit like my old Sports-Sedan colour. That was 'Tangerine'. It'll look good.👍
Cheers, Greg
1303Steve ·
Hi Greg
It could be verging on old #92s colour, I held the sample swatch up against Dave Birchalls orange bug today and the swatch looked red next to his car.
I think it will stand out.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
After I got back from Boris Picnic I did some work on the pan. I relocated the brake master cylinder 30 mm to the drivers (right) side, this gives me enough room to fit a clutch master in next to it.
I now have to move the lever on the brake pedal over 30 mm as well and fit rose joint attachment to the clutch pedal to operate the clutch master cylinder.
Steve
STIDUB ·
wonder where you got that idea from 👍 oh, shame all i can find of my original idea is a rough, i mean rough layout in a notepad, i doubt many people would read it easily too, the pedals are the next fun bit, mine are getting close-ish to finished for the last time, gotta love the evolutionary process of this stuff 😁
oh, it looks like you may of but im not sure, did you drop the centerline of the MC's down about 10mm?
1303Steve ·
Hi Dave
I think we came up with the idea at the same time. I kept the standard height for both the master cylinders.
I'm either going to weld on a lever for the brake master like you did or I was thinking of cutting 30 mm out of the horizontal tube and then rejoining the 2 bits, this would move the brake master operating lever into the correct position and then run spacer between the clutch pedal and the narrowed brake pedal, Im just going to run a simple clevis on the clutch pedal.
I kept the master cylinder centre line the same.
Steve
This would be a real pain job to do with the pan on.
ricola ·
What are the extra holes for Steve? I kinda wish I'd done this on mine after all the hassle I've had running new lines, balance bar etc etc!
1303Steve ·
Hi Rich
Extra holes, I used this plate as template when drilling the others, that hole lined up with a stock master cylinder hole, this with clamps held in place for drilling and welding, the big hole on the bottom is for the hard lines to feed back into the car.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
There is some paint on the bolt on panels, the body will be done next week.
Steve
1303Steve ·
some more
Pickpocket ·
How did you prep that little area below your rear window with the vents? I considered drilling out the spot welds (all 500), prepping and tacking it back into place but that seems like alot of extra work. Not to mention that if I get that alignment wrong my deck lid won't ever sit straight.
1303Steve ·
Hi
I had it soda blasted, that cleaned it up really well
Steve.
matberry ·
Looking good Steve.....and very ORANGE.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks Mat, it looks much better in the flesh than the photos.
I nearly have the pan done, then its on with the body, then a hood lining and then Westi is going to do a 3 inch exhaust for it, then see the engineer to get it ticked off before he retires.
Steve
reub ·
All happening very fast dude. Looks great👍
Camo ·
Looking great there Steve and to think that you haven't down much work on it in the last 12 months and you will have yours on the road before me 🥲
Great work, Kev.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks guys, Kev you should ahead of me, your car is at home.
I'm having a bit of spurt at the moment, the engineer who has passed 3 other WRX bugs and has been looking after mine is retiring soon, so I just want to get it up to blue slip stage and then finish it as time allows.
I have been neglecting all household stuff so I'm not popular, as they say the amount of of shit your in only varies in height, I'm nearly drowning.
I did the ratio calculations on the Porsche G50 gearbox I'm using, they are nearly identical to my sons R31 Skyline, 1st through to 4th are nearly identical, the G50 5th is little taller. The R31 has an excellent spread of ratios, 1st is very tall and all the others are very close so the G50 should work well.
Been doing heaps of work on the chassis, its nearly done, just fitting up the 944 handbrake cables, 944 rear sway bar mounts and I'm running a tube through the tunnel for a Morse accelerator cable.
Steve
reub ·
I'll have to draw on some of your motorvation to get back into mine.... one day😂
Flintstones ·
looks great Steve👍
Cheers
D
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks for encouragement guys.
Still working on the chassis.
I had Brad (aka Westy) weld some fittings on the tank. 1/2 outlet and and 2 x 3/8 return lines into the tank, while he was at it I got him to fill in the LHD part of the tank for some increased capacity, I think maybe 2 - 4 litres gain.
I bought this tank from a wrecker in about 2002 for my yellow bug, it was a genuine VW German replacement tank that looked almost new.
Steve
HappyDaze ·
Nice bit of TIG welding there.👍
1303Steve ·
Hi Greg
Brad is the man for good welding, I always get him to do the important stuff.
Steve
Joel ·
Hi Steve,
are the returns on the top corner where the breathers normally are?
I thought about going this way, was less work than getting an intake pump setup to work.
How much extra capacity you reckon you've gained?
You hardly need it with a subi though.
I got from here to bris, around the city and back again with 5.5L left out of 40L a couple of weeks ago and that was with A/C on which kills economy at stop/start traffic lights.
my 1776 with webers or the blower would be half way through its 2nd tank by then
1303Steve ·
Hi
The returns on are on the front left edge of the tank, my surge tank will mount just below them on the what's left of the boot floor.
I saw an interesting washer bottle on a Tarago today, the model with the hidden motor, the shape looks like it would fit really neatly where the factory one is now, more Jap crap in our cars.
I'm going to run headlight washers, I already have all the stuff to do it when I was going Xenon headlights so I thought why not, the stock bug washer bottle would empty out quickly. I have a Land Rover disco pump (wonder how long that will last), 911 jets for the bumper and a 911 valve which is the same as a Beetle one.
Steve
PS, I think I maybe gained a about 4 litres, but while the tank was there I thought that it was good thing to do.
1303Steve ·
Hi
We have paint. The car is now at the Cools Trim next door getting a headlining, should be on the pan and back home by Christmas Eve, yippee.
I fitted the first part today, my bee sting ariel.
Steve
Craig Torrens ·
Looking good.😵
1303Steve ·
I dug all the dreaded foam out of the shell, I've saturated the area with Lanolin and stuck wool offcuts in all the cavities.
1303Steve ·
Thanks Craig
matara ·
Looking great Steve I reckon that colour looks great with Black wheels, just like this one which is one of my favourite germanlook cars:-
Looking forward to seeing all your clever neat little touchs to be added from here on.
Cheers
Steve
Camo ·
I agree with matara, that photo he put up looks bloody hot and gives us an idea of how yours will look Steve.
What's the idea with the wool, does it keep the lanolin in ?????
Kev
1303Steve ·
Hi
That car is beautiful, I've never seen it before, the colour looks very similar.
I had my wheels done in silver as I still hadn't made up my mind about colours then.
The wool is to cut down noise, the foam was installed as sound barrier.
Steve
ricola ·
Looking good Steve, it's amazing how a bit of paint brings things together...
cam070 ·
Looks hot steve, but aren't you worried the wool will hold water like the dreaded foam?
1303Steve ·
Hi
I believe that the heat from the motor will keep the wool dry and it should breath unlike the foam, neither my sons bug or my bug will get driven in the rain unless its absolutely necessary, that's what Jap cars are for lol.
Rich, I'm seeing some light at the end of the tunnel now, can't wait to drive it.
Steve
matara ·
What wheel/brake combo are you going Steve? Got to be Porsche not Subaru 😉
1303Steve ·
Hi Steve
I kept all the old brakes from my yellow bug, they will be going back on, 996 rears on the front with 930 turbo rotors, Boxster rears on the rear with 944 rotors.
I have 18x8 Simmons OM wheels in Porsche pattern, I posted pictures in the 1st page.
Just got in from painting the pan, needed a beer and a sit down before going to bed, it 2.16 am yikes.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I've ran out time to get my pan finished to drop the body on, everything is closing up today, so I will concentrate on the pan and pickup the body on the 4th, I have nowhere to store the body over the break. I really underestimated the work involved in getting the pan finished.
Cools Trim did a great job on the hood lining, its off white and really looks good with orange paint.
Steve
PS the wires poking through at the back are for an rear interior light, just like a splitty, removing the light will give me access to bee sting antenna mounting nut.
cam070 ·
Headlining looks great. Was it a custom job, or did they just fit an aftermarket kit that you supplied?
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks, its a kit I supplied.
Steve
Flintstones ·
your not wasting any time Steve!!
straight from panel shop to the trimmers
looking good by the way
Cheers
D
ElusiveStranger ·
Looking great Steve.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks ES, not too goping I hope LOL.
I've been working on the chassis a fair bit, I filled in the cut out bits, mounted the 944 handbrake cable brakets.
I made a sort of Kafer Cup bar, some eBay UK rose joints about $65 and some Molly tube $50 a bit of welding and some nuts and bolts.
Steve
Craig Torrens ·
You dont like cleaning welds up ?
HappyDaze ·
Good work Steve! NEVER grind or file welds, when strength is more important than appearance.👍
Cheers, Greg
ElusiveStranger ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Thanks ES, not too goping I hope LOL.
😉
I still don't like the whale tails :p (each to their own)
Loving the build though 🙂
PS 2 p's in gopping.
HappyDaze ·
Originally posted by ElusiveStranger[
I still don't like the whale tails :p (each to their own)
PS 2 p's in gopping.
Isn't it "each to his (or her) own"?😊
lou0060 ·
hi Steve, great to see such progress. Colour is perfect and the wheels will really compliment. As for the big ass tail, let me know if you want to get rid of it as mine is only a single lip version and I think I could do with more down force on Boris's old car, which is now painted and being assembled.... (will post a thread soon)
.A question you you???? are you going to run mechanical gauges or electric?
Lou
1303Steve ·
Hi Lou
Welcome aboard. I'm going to run all VDO electric gauges, with the exception of an EBoost 2 and a SPA speedo.
Get busy and do a build thread on your car
Steve
HappyDaze ·
Hi Steve,
About the tail. Not sure if you remember the problems with rear-end lift on my old Sports Sedan? At the end of the straight at Amaroo Park, the back was lifting about 2 inches (sorry,50.8mm) - even with an extended lip on the (Bruce Butler) whale-tail.🤪 As you probably know, the VW shape is the problem. Rear down force at high speed is great, but watch out for understeer on high speed corners. Then comes the front!!!!!!!!!!🤪
Cheers, Greg
P.S. Sorry, couldn't resist correcting the Pom.😊
1303Steve ·
Hi Greg
I remember when you fitted the tail, it made an improvement, if I remember correctly it really helped with stability going over the hill at Amaroo before the right hander. I will have to watch the front end as well.
You just don't like POMS because that's where Minis came from, ES most likely is not a fan of Minis anyway.
Steve
HappyDaze ·
Hey Steve, who said that I don't like poms? Some of my best friends are poms.😁
1303Steve ·
Hi Greg
I've got it now. you just hate Minis not poms
Steve
HappyDaze ·
That's a bit more like it.😏
lou0060 ·
Hi Steve, started the thread, Tampico racecar, but had trouble loading photos......
obviously a new skill to be learnt......
will load them up as soon as I work out how....
1303Steve ·
Hi
I put the body on the pan today and brought the car home.
I ran out of time to fit any panels, still plenty to do over the weekend.
I completely stuffed up the rear suspension ride height, its pain because its so easy to alter when the body isn't in the way.
Steve
1303Steve ·
A few photos of the brake pedal setup.
I moved the brake master cylinder over to the right 30 mm so that I could fit the clutch master next to it.
vw54 ·
ar progress
lou0060 ·
can't wait to see it with the guards etc on. looks sht hot Steve.
STIDUB ·
looking good steve 👍
if i appear on your doorstep/driveway next weekend could you blame me? progressed ALOT from when i saw it 👍
1303Steve ·
STIDUB wrote:looking good steve 👍
if i appear on your doorstep/driveway next weekend could you blame me? progressed ALOT from when i saw it 👍
Bring your spanners, I had a reason to get a move on, the engineer who has seen me through this is retiring
Joel ·
Those front tyres back to front are glaring at me 😂
ian.mezz ·
nice trailer😂
Aussie Dubbin ·
Hi Seve,
Weary of sounding like a dickhead... do vwrx bugs do good burnouts? I have seen quite a few conversions on the net and thought there would have been some guys keen on donuts...I'm sure there is power to burn but is there too much weight being RR is it too much stress on the components? I have really enjoyed reading your posts and Joels. Keep up the great work looks like it will be special ride when finished.
Cheers
1303Steve ·
Hi
Joel, I was in hurry to get the car out the panel shop, guy was waiting to go home.
Aussie Dubbin, Jak does some good skids with his car, most rexy bugs run Type 1 gearboxes, these limit the amount of abuse that can be given to the driveline. My car has a G50 Porsche transmission, it should handle the power output OK. I didn't build this car just to do burnouts, I want to use for a few speed events and going to interstate car shows etc, I might have a crack at the 1/4 mile.
Steve
Joel ·
Jaks lights up those fat back tyres quite nicely.
I've done it a couple of times by accident with the same size tyres but if Im gonna do it on purpose some stock rims spin nicely but it's murder on the tranny
Camo ·
Looking great there Steve. A good feeling when you see them coming together after being apart for a few years or more, I too am having that buz at the moment. There is no race, but you will definitely have yours up and running before me. But you are also on a time frame with your engineer. Enjoy the re-building and keep the photos coming.
Kev.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks Kevin, I've just came in from a big night in the garage, its 1.35 am, been painting some chassis and suspension pieces I forgot about and I reset the rear end a bit higher, I also worked on some heat shielding on the firewall.
Steve
Camo ·
Been a long time since I had to work those sort of hours on my own car. Amazing what a dead line will do.
Hope it all goes smoothly, Kev.
HappyDaze ·
Come on you two, never mind wasting valuable time on here - get back out to the garage!😂😂
Cheers, Greg
1303Steve ·
Hi
Another big night, it takes its toll after working all day at the day job as well.
Fitted some new rotors to my 996 rear brakes that I use on the front. I originally had extreme cross drilled rotors, I'm sure the engineer wouldn't have liked them, these rotors and hubs were originally on the Dak to the Future car.
I've also ran all new soft & hard brake lines. I'm thinking about moving my bake fluid reservoir down lower nearer to master cylinder along with the clutch master, I hate the tube arrangement that RHD bugs got.
Is this anal? I went and ran a torque wrench over all chassis bolts.
Steve
Photo explanation, all the brakes and some of the suspension were on my old yellow bug, the exteeme cross drilled rotors when they were on my yellow bug
NewBug ·
Hi Steve,
Been having a peek at your build, very nicely done if I may say so. As for using a torque wrench on the chassis bolts, to me, thats a standard operating procedure. I personally always use a torque wrench to tighten bolts/nuts, heck I even torque up my oil drain plug bolts and retaining plate nuts on my 73 squareback.
Keep going with the torque wrench 😎
Jak Rizzo ·
1303Steve wrote:Aussie Dubbin, Jak does some good skids
Steve
I'm far to mature & responsible for that type of behaviour😊
besides, Skids are for people that can't wipe their bum properly.
Hurry up Steve! the clock is ticking, stop typing & start wrenching!
regards
Jak
1303Steve ·
Hi Jak
I need some comic relief every now and then.
Just been to see Westy, hopefully he can do the exhaust and some coolant line work early next week when he clears some other jobs.
Steve
lou0060 ·
looking good Steve, seems we are racing each other even before we hit the track!! I am planning to have mine ready by nationals but you seem to have pulled ahead a bit over the last 2 days. The rain up here is holding me up a bit....
Anal is now right in too by the way, last Saturday my mate and I polished the roll cage.......
vw54 ·
besides, Skids are for people that can't wipe their bum properly.
HEY JACK r u talking bout Me, Steve N Louie ????
Jak Rizzo ·
vw54 wrote:
besides, Skids are for people that can't wipe their bum properly.
HEY JACK r u talking bout Me, Steve N Louie ????
maybe, do your undies smell?.
Do u even wear undies Dave? (might be a more apt question)
u do walk kinda funny......................
Stop distracting Steve, He really has some work to do!
SuperOwen ·
I think they were speed holes in the old rotors. I'm getting a similar brake setup for mine, probably overkill with the 1600 though!!! should look nice under the boxter rims though 😂
Camo ·
Steve,
Its been 5 days and no update. I can only conclude that you are spending all your time on the car. Wish I could spend half a day on mine.
Looking forward to more photos.
Kev
1303Steve ·
Hi
No photos yet, I've been busy. I have all the mudguards on and beaded, doors fitted and not finished off, fitted the subi wiring loom, ported the exhaust manifolds and fitted the headers, fitted the intercooler and plumbback for the blow off valve, finished off the insulation on the inner firewall, ran the morse accelerator cable through the chassis and Leigh came around today and helped me fit the front and back windows, started making making a bracket to hold the master cylinder reservoirs in place, fitted the flex line to the clutch slave cylinder, then I had to go to work.
Also mucked around with the oil pressure gauge T piece, thanks for the advice Joel
Steve
Joel ·
👍
JVLRacing ·
luv the colour steve...comin along too
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks JVL.
Today I made up brackets for the radiator and inter cooler radiator, finished the bracket for the master cylinder reservoirs, started mounting the ECU and various relays, ran the front to back coolant lines, mounted the Carter lift pump and did a solo bleed on the brakes and clutch, I got a good pedal on the clutch and the brakes will need another bleed.
I went to Pirtek and got them to make a T and line to mount the oil pressure sender.
Steve
PS I forgot to say that I lined the engine bay with some house type insulation and covered it with XR6 type insulation which I bought from Repco
1303Steve ·
mirror photos
Aussie Dubbin ·
Photos pls😎
1303Steve ·
Hi
I posted them, cant you see them? Got me worried now.
Steve
ricola ·
Coming on nicely Steve... Any reason why you didn't flip the coolant manifold?
hellbugged ·
.......keep going 👍
lou0060 ·
looking good Steve, wheels and guards set it off nicely, can't wait to see the whaletail on......
and the mirrors are sweet....
boof2332 ·
Hey Steve,
Love to see another suby beast coming together....looks awesome.
Just a quick question..does your kafer cup style brace between the rear shocks get in the way of your dump pipe from the turbo.
I made my own bracing around the exhaust....just curious!
Cannot wait to get all of us together when your done for a cruise.
Matt
1303Steve ·
Hi Matt
The car is over at Westis now having the exhaust done, the cross bar shouldn't get in the way.
I cant wait to drive this thing, a get together would be great.
Steve
Bizarre ·
How long has it been Steve??
7 years??
PS
LOVE the colour
1303Steve ·
Hi Barry
The colour sort of divides opinions.
I picked it up from V Force in April 2003 it then sat in a friends shed at Picton until September 2004.
Its been a journey, built another bug for my son and I also suffered from Vertigo on and off for a few years, this has now been fixed.
Once I get the bug to a certain point soon, things will ease off a bit, I have really neglected some stuff around the house for the last few months, the plan is house stuff in the day and car stuff only at night.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Ricola, I didn't see the need to reverse the coolant manifold, most other conversions I've seen down here haven't bothered either, just one less thing that is modified.
Brad (aka Westi) from Westside Mufflers has been doing the exhaust and coolant lines.
It is all 3 inch stainless, there is a separate waste gate exit on the dump pipe, a high flow cat, a hotdog muffler and 3 inch dual bore muffler that Brad has welded a 180 degree end on, so the gases flow in one end, do a U turn and come out the same side of the muffler as the inlet.
Steve
1303Steve ·
more exhaust photos
Camo ·
Fantastic, like all the others I cant wait to see her up and running.
I drove past Westi's place today and saw the car up on the hoist in the corner and even at a distance, I thought 'Wow that looks F##ken great'. I'm talking about the car overall, not just the great work done by Brad.
Doing a great job Steve and I'm sure all the hard work (and money) will be worth it when you first put her in gear and go for a drive.
Kev
ian.mezz ·
nice and neat.
not like mine.😂
I know its a bit tricky to fit a exhaust pipe in the back of a bug and make sure it don't hit the drive shaft when the suspension travels up and down & still be able to get spark plugs out.😊
Aussie Dubbin ·
great work to get it to this point are you thinking of a first official drive some time soon or still too far away
Birdman ·
Christ, Westi should start selling admission tickets.
I hear even your welding teacher stuck his head in for a gander !!!
DieSchnelleKafer ·
awesome work man, keep it up! get a video when its running 👍
DaveCarter ·
DieSchnelleKafer wrote:awesome work man, keep it up! get a video when its running 👍
you ask, we deliver
hellbugged ·
sweet...tick tock, tick tock...keep going!
rose ·
PRETTY
good to see, keep at it
so when will it be on the road
1303Steve ·
Hi Rose
It will be on trailer tomorrow going up the F3. I'm not sure when it will be done completely, soon I hope.
I cranked the motor with no ECU power to get oil pressure, it then started straight up and just sat there an idled beautifully, hats off to Mr Subaru and Al up in Qld for the loom work.
I only had one drama, a hose that I thought was breather turned out to be a coolant hose, so I spilled a bit of coolant.
The cooling system bled really well, having an outlet on the top of the radiator really helped I think.
Steve
sens ·
that`s good
gerrelt ·
That engine is running beautifully smooth!
Nice work!
ElusiveStranger ·
Nice going Steve 🙂
STIDUB ·
if i had a dollar for each time i was asked at work today if the orange subie beetle on youtube was mine... id have $5 haha, pretty jealous, might have to spend tomorrow on mine... nice work steve, and dave for posting the vid 😀
1303Steve ·
Hi
Just came in from the shed, another big night.
I have to do a few things before he will pass it, he's happy so far, the rear end just kept getting lower every time I put something on the car, I have reset it again, 3rd time lucky I hope. It looks a whisker too high but I have the 944 spring plates set on full high so I have a bit of adjustment top play with.
He did a noise test it was 99 dB, should be 96 dB, no air cleaner and no engine lid probably made it worse, I've also fitted a special flange gasket. I really thought that it would be OK noise wise as all I can hear is the fan belt.
The motor runs OK without the MAF sensor hooked up, I probably have a shopping list of error codes by now.
The G50 ratios combined with a heavy KEP clutch are not very good for getting the car onto the trailer.
Off to bed now, its 1.40 am here, another big day today then I have to go to work at 3 pm.
Thanks for the encouragement guys.
Steve
Camo ·
Steve, although there are a few little things to fix it will be better in the long run as you will know that it is all good and if you every get pulled over by those bastard coppers that you can just smile and tell them that it is all legal.
Hope you enjoy your day in the city and what a bummer having to go to work after all that 👎
Keep up the good work and the updates for us followers, Kev.
rose ·
hey how did you go wasn't last Friday d day for the engineer?
1303Steve ·
Hi
Car was passed today, I need to finish of a few things for a blue slip, then rego.
Steve
HappyDaze ·
Congratu-bloody-lations Steve😁
Cheers, Greg
Craig Torrens ·
good work Steve............now its time to work on the next project !
lou0060 ·
great news Steve, well done on a huge effort! There must be a back log of flat batteries and locked keys out there that will now get some service.......
hellbugged ·
👍..........keep the momentum going while it's there Steve.......mines been "ready" for blue slip since August, but still hasn't been done 🙅
fuel system looks good, nice and simple, same pumps as notch which has proven to take plenty of abuse and should prove nice and reliable for you too
1303Steve ·
Hi Guys
Thanks for the kind words, still lots to do. I might hold off getting rego for a few weeks, my wife's car rego is due today and I don't want two regos due in the one month.
I decided at the beginning of this build to fit early Golf switch gear and to mimic the wiring layout of the same model Golf with 16 fuses but the blade type.
The ignition switch / wiper & blinker switch housing fitted with a bit of fettling, the wipers feature electric pump activation and variable intermittent wiping and the blinker feature Euro parkers i.e. when you leave the blinker on with the motor off the parkers come on, on that side of the car, not sure if this is a good idea or not.
The Golf switch gear feels much more modern as well. I also kept the old lock barrel and door handles from my old yellow bug when I sold the car as I had just fitted Audi lock mechanism to them, these feature reversible keys, as in you cant put the key in back to front, good when your getting old.
The mudguards I'm using are Aeros, they take 911 headlights, I bought these headlights from Design 911 in the UK when the $ was OK against the pound.
Fuel system is a Carter lift pump with a Injection Perfection surge tank and a 044 main pump, the main pump is controlled by the factory Subaru boost sensitive pump speed controller, this area needs finishing off in the boot.
hellbugged ·
don't forget although you have to pay 12 months when first registering........you can switch to 6 months in 2012 to shift it away from the other car......then just flip back to 12 months rego again..
one less excuse buddy.......can't wait for more pics!
been nice to watch what is obviously the culmination of years of thoughts and ideas of an experienced builder.
great that its not over the top for a change without the "big $ name overload rubbish", but still clean and no doubt will prove very functional and reliable......it's a credit to you
1303Steve ·
Hi
I forgot to mention that my "special flange gasket" dropped the from 98 dB to 90.5 dB.
Steve
hellbugged ·
😂.......is that the gasket like Ians had for a short period?
ian.mezz ·
hellbugged wrote:😂.......is that the gasket like Ians had for a short period?
thats Secret Squirrel stuff😊
Joel ·
yup worked for my sound test too 😂
Camo ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
I forgot to mention that my "special flange gasket" dropped the from 98 dB to 90.5 dB.
Steve
Its a shame that these special gaskets (wink wink) reduce performance, but that's life (for now) 😂
Well done, Kev.
Craig S ·
👍👍 Congratulations Steve,
Look forward to seeing and hearing the car in action
1303Steve ·
Hi
I removed the dump pipe and exhaust today so that Westie could weld in a O2 bung.
Its a pretty trick bit of work and it only takes about 10 minutes to get off.
Steve
1303Steve ·
one more
Camo ·
Nice work by Brad and is that a little 'Cat' just after the trubo flange?
Kev
1303Steve ·
Hi Kev
That is a cat that you can see.
Steve
Craig Torrens ·
he does excellent work.
STIDUB ·
so no pretty pics on avd yet hmm? ive seen bits of a more complete looking stage elsewhere & want more - id say others want more too 😀
boof2332 ·
Hey Steve,
You must be excited...
Just looking at the pics of the exhaust...really neat. When i was doing all the research on porting and headers etc, alot of people removed the heat shield from the crosspipe. The heat shield is actually to keep heat in and give some consistency between the cast headers on either side which are actually good for power. The more retained heat prior to the turbo the better for power. Ceramic coating or wrapping are a good option when the heat shield is removed for more space at the back.
You may have had it covered, just thought i would mention it....lots of little mods all add up to response and power.
Matt
cnfabo ·
congrats steve, the bug look great. i bet u cant wait to go for a spin.....hell i cant wait to c this thing going for a spin 😉
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks for the positive comments, I still have all the heat shielding to put back on, I didnt think it would make that much difference. Is the the heat shielding on the end casting as critical?
I'm doing all the boring bits now, nothing much to take pictures of.
Steve
boof2332 ·
Steve,
Not as critical for other heat shields....i put them on as the oil filter side seems quite close to water and oil.
The cross pipe shield also stops it heating up and cooling down too quickly... the odd little jobs are time consuming although sort of fun as the end is so close. EXCITING!
Matt
ian.mezz ·
STIDUB wrote:so no pretty pics on avd yet hmm? ive seen bits of a more complete looking stage elsewhere & want more - id say others want more too 😀
Here is a pic of some not so boring bits on a orange bug, Just to keep you interested in the thread 😂😂
waltermitty ·
Nice bumpers! LOL M
Camo ·
Ian,
Oh My God (said very slowly) her body is fantastic and if she is at Steve's I am there to help him work on it (the car I mean).
(slap, slap to face) wake up you idiot and remember you are nearly mid 40's 😢
Kevy
1303Steve ·
Hi
That's one tough girl using pliers instead of wax.
I've moved my fuse box into the boot area behind the glove box. I'm tied of kicking the fuses with my foot in David's bug and I despise the ceramic fuses that VW used. I bought these fuse boxes with 8 fuses each.
Still a few more wires to go.
Steve
lou0060 ·
very nice Steve, I am using the same fuse boxes on mine.
where are you mounting the relays and flasher can??
1303Steve ·
Hi Lou
I'm mounting the relays next to the steering column on the drivers side, when the dash is in place the relays will just poke out the bottom. I cut the fuse area of the stock fuse box just leaving the relay section.
Time to fess up, I made major blunder with the relay plate, I put some captive nuts in the body to hold it, when drilling the hole for the captive nuts I drilled into the fuel tank, bugger poo bum wee hole.
Steve
lou0060 ·
hahahahahahahahahaha sorry mate couldn't help laughing... I won't mention all mine but we've all done it
HappyDaze ·
Pity about the tank, but if you don't tell anyone, I won't. Must be getting exciting now - so close.👍
Oh, and it's good to see 'boot' and not 'trunk' used, we need more 'Aussie' speak.🙄
vw54 ·
when drilling the hole for the captive nuts I drilled into the fuel tank, bugger poo bum wee hole.
hehhe u were looking at that pic of the girl above while drilling
hellbugged ·
got any pics of the whole car for us Steve? hanging out to see it!
i drilled thru my front to rear brake line from underneath the pan a week out from the spectacular........it happens hey
surfbeetle ·
If it makes you feel better, I'll admit that last week while grinding in my right rear fender area, the grinder caught and shot itself down on my custom bent hard brake line and put a nice hole in the tube. Looks like I get to buy that part again...
1303Steve ·
Hi
Years ago I was drilling a hole under my pan and drilled though the edge of the battery. The battery was 7 years old and I was always bragging about how old it was.
Stuff ups are just part of the fun, if we wanted an easy life we would all drive white falcondores.
Steve
HappyDaze ·
Hi Steve, Even more years ago, I was helping Jack Bono with his 356 race car. He was drilling a hole in the floor, and to maintain his balance, he put his hand under the floor, and promptly drilled a neat hole THROUGH HIS HAND.😬 Jack's hand healed up - pity your fuel tank won't.😢
Cheers, Greg
beetleboyjeff ·
Years ago (before cordless drills), a bloke I knew was drilling a hole in the bottom of the car door (not a VW) to let the water out. Of course, the water rand down into the electric drill, and he woke up against the fence (lucky he DID wake up).
surfbeetle ·
While were are on the subject of drills, this is non car related, I was drilling a phillips head screw into a wall and the drill slipped and the phillips bit was kind enough to twist and tear up my thumb, that was not fun. All of this really goes to prove that no matter what we are working on, take safety precautions, gloves, eyewear, jackstands, keep your workspace clean, etc.
matberry ·
Jeff, your story reminds me of a sparky mate that drained his Manx pan as it filled during a qld summer storm. He put his power drill inside a plastic bag and drilled the hole. Still don't know how he managed to not 'hit the fence' too.
lou0060 ·
gee Steve, was this thread about your car.......
1303Steve ·
Hi Lou
I'm the worst offender for going off topic.
Well Westy may be away but his guys helped me out welding up the hole, I'm a chicken when it comes to welding tanks.
Steve
matberry ·
Oh topic.....sorry Steve, car is looking super....so to speak 🙂
I wouldn't like to think just how many supers have had holes drilled in thier tank. Our old shop had a car sound joint nearby.......I think they managed to f@%$up every beetle one way or another.....oops, that's another story. Keep up the good work.
1303Steve ·
Hi Matt
I drilled 2 holes, only one hit the tank, 50 50 chance I guess. The tank is very close to the dash area.
Steve
lou0060 ·
Have you got a photo with the big arse whale tail on yet?????
STIDUB ·
yup, theres a tiny bit of evidence of that exact item on germanlook forums, steves not playing fair & putting pretty pics up anywhere though, just snippets 🥲
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm still waiting for the top wing, it looks dorky without it. I promise I will take a photo of the car with it on soon.
Cheers Steve
Birdman ·
As a member of the Big Arse Wing Club i can confirm it looks cool even without the top wing.
Dub_Life ·
Cars coming along nicely Steve, shame about the tank.. hanging out for those pics of the whole car too! Keep that inspirational stuff coming!
lou0060 ·
Carter.....pull ya finger out man, where's our Agent Orange fix?????
1303Steve ·
Hi Lou
I've been building the great wall of Carter again, I've been sorting out the wiring loom for the bug, it really does your head in.
Leigh is sending a few tippers of fill around on Monday so I need to go a bit higher to hold it all.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Been doing a bit today on the bug. Fitted up the pod filter, you can see that I've altered the direction of the turbo inlet tube, it would normally go of to the left of the car, I cut and turned the silicone tube and fitted the billet AFM housing, I made a bracket to support it all using the power steering bracket.
I also fitted a braided line with a tee piece to relocate the oil light switch and oil pressure sender to a better location.
Steve
STIDUB ·
looking good steve, will the air filter be fed by the ducts in the wing or is it just there for testing currently?
JVLRacing ·
lookin real tidy steve....easily lookin the best ive seen on here well done mate
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks for the encouraging comments. I plan to box it the air filter in and have it fed by the ducts on the wing.
Steve
JVLRacing ·
hello steve, u got pics of the wing steve?
Dub_Life ·
Nice work steve, I had a similar idea for mine if I use my wing... Also is that a 3a carbon fibre pod I've been waiting for mine since before Xmas??
1303Steve ·
Hi
JVL, I posted photos of the wing earlier on page 1, I'm waiting for the top wing section to be made, it look better with it on.
Dub_Life, its a cheapy air filter I bought from Brad at Westside, he did testing on these units for one of the ricer mags and they out flowed many more expensive items.
I fitted my Grimmspeed oil separator today, they screw onto the stock Subi oil filler, the idea is to prevent oily residue going into the inter cooler and intake manifold. The 2 outer tubes bring oil vented air from the PCV and valve covers, the centre tube sends only fresh air to the inlet tube on turbo inlet tube.
Steve
ps, the rusty angle iron was for my temporary overflow bottle
Dub_Life ·
Yeah thats the one and I've read that article on there flow etc Apparently no carbon fibre in the country at the moment.... Does westiside still have them in stock?
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm sure he still has a few, its not real CF, I couldn't decide what colour I wanted so Westi made my mind up for me.
Steve
ricola ·
Steve,
Not sure if it definitely would definitely be a problem but I would be tempted to rubber isolate the AFM housing as the sensor would be liable to vibration damage over time...
Could you drill and tap your pressure sender 'T' for a brake bleed nipple to bleed the air out?
Rich
1303Steve ·
Hi Rich
The AFM housing is mounted pretty solid now, its not clear in the picture but I have a decent piece of angle steel holding it in place.
I haven't fitted my Autronic SM4 ECU but it has its own internal MAP sensor so the Subaru sensor becomes redundant.
When I get it running I will see if I get any unusual oil pressure warnings due to an airlock, I hope not.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I fitted my Grimmspeed turbo heat shield today, it needed a bit of modification to clear my Kafer Cup brace. I also took the opportunity to line inside it with some left over XR6 heat shielding.
Steve
1303Steve ·
some more
1303Steve ·
some more
1303Steve ·
I've been working on the wiring and I've fitted up my eBoost2
lou0060 ·
looking good Steve. where are you hooking up the boost gauge hose?
1303Steve ·
Hi Lou
The eBoost is hooked up to the turbo itself, see picture.
The blow off valve is hooked up to the standard location under the the throttle body and the boost gauge will either T off the blow off valve or I might use the vacuum source that the carbon cannister uses.
Steve
lou0060 ·
thanks Steve, I'll need to think about how I do mine with the 2 turbos??
did you get my pm re Peter up here?
Lou
1303Steve ·
Hi Lou
I didn't see a PM, my in box is often full so it may have gone astray.
Steve
psimitar ·
ian.mezz wrote:
STIDUB wrote:so no pretty pics on avd yet hmm? ive seen bits of a more complete looking stage elsewhere & want more - id say others want more too 😀
Here is a pic of some not so boring bits on a orange bug, Just to keep you interested in the thread 😂😂
So if she's not related or your missus then what is her number 😀
Oh and cool build Steve 🙂
silver ·
psimitar wrote:So if she's not related or your missus then what is her number 😀
Does it matter?????🤪
psimitar ·
silver wrote:
psimitar wrote:So if she's not related or your missus then what is her number 😀
Does it matter?????🤪
probably not 😀
silver ·
Has there been some test driving 👍
1303Steve ·
Hi
I've been a bit slack with my bug, no excuses but I had an issue with our local registration people, I handed in the number plates and lost interest in the whole thing.
I've now been granted permission to register the bug, so another engineers report and two RMS inspections of the car, then a blue slip yesterday and rego today, now to finish the car, carpets, stereo, air con etc.
Steve
hellbugged ·
Thank Christ for that!
Great news
Flintstones ·
Strewth!!
Glad it's sorted out now
silver ·
i will keep an eye out for it 👍
JVLRacing ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
I've been a bit slack with my bug, no excuses but I had an issue with our local registration people, I handed in the number plates and lost interest in the whole thing.
I've now been granted permission to register the bug, so another engineers report and two RMS inspections of the car, then a blue slip yesterday and rego today, now to finish the car, carpets, stereo, air con etc.
Steve
Good to hear Steve, also thanks for the advice with my kids car....yes blue slip etc has been a pain in the arse
1303Steve ·
Hi
Blue slip was no problem as the RMS has been over this car a few times and they gave me their OK for rego.
I just went and had the car wheel aligned.
The G50 transmission is out of low kilometre Japanese import, it has a noise in it, so the gearbox will be removed soon to repair, not happy as its so much fun to drive. I bought the transmission so long ago that there's not any hope of warranty.
Rudi had a drive yesterday and he's going to help pull the transmission down to see what we can do, this wont be cheap as anything with Porsche written on it is going to cost $$$
Steve
AUSSIE_MICK ·
The car looks fantastic Steve, very nice work.
SuperOwen ·
Looks amazing, congrats on finally getting it rego'd.
cam070 ·
This looks amazing Steve. Great to hear it is rego'ed now. Look forward to seeing it on the streets terrorising some late model autos.
Camo ·
Congratulations Steve, bloody great job. This car is going to pull some big lookers 😀
👍👍👍👍👍👍 Kev
vlad01 ·
Awesome!
love german look suby superbugs.
Outstanding work.
hellbugged ·
Looks terrific.... Can't wait to see it on the move
What did Rudi think of the power, stopping and handling
PAZZAN ·
very nice,👍 hope to see it on the race track as well👍👍
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks for the kind words. I think Rudi would find my car little tame after what he normally drives.
I still need to do some work on the rear end, I ended up with a bit of toe out and I need to lower the car a bit, its no lightweight car but I still want to do a few supersprints in it.
I installed some extra gauges and this left no room for switch gear, I moved it down to where the fan switch and vent control normally sit, I'm making billet panel to replace the hacked up plastic one shown here.
Steve
Flintstones ·
Steve, I'm still not used to you having anything but a yellow beetle 😀
Turned out great, looking forward to seeing it in person.
Cheers
D
cam070 ·
Is it just me or am I detecting a lack of a Speedo. Bet the rta guys had an issue with that.
1303Steve ·
Hi
The speedo is in the tacho, I had to have an engineer verify that speedo was accurate, it runs off the speed sensor for the Subaru ECU.
Steve
cam070 ·
That's why I didn't see it
Dub_Life ·
Car looks awesome Steve, glad the engineering side is all over for you, keep the pics coming as you progress through the interior stuff.
flatfourfan ·
awesome build.............any pics of it straight on from the side. I like the whale tail. Goes well with the overall look.
Doug Sweetman ·
Looks brilliant Steve, nice indeed !
lou0060 ·
bout time Carter!
can't wait to see it go round EC next May.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks for the kind words.
The tail is growing on me, the wife hates it.
I thought it was time to fit a radio with blue tooth.
I'm going to put air conditioning vents where the stock radio hole is so I had friend fold me up an under dash bracket.
Im running out of room for things so a bit of a compromise with a sub woofer, I'm using a Fusion one which has built in amp.
BTW the blue stuff on the floor is aerobic mats that glued down in place of carpet to keep the inspectors happy.
Steve
Bizarre ·
Got to see this last night at the Wentworth
Cool car.
True German Looker
Love the colour - ok, shame its not air cooled 😁 - but damn..... it just goes together well
Love it Steve 👍
Craig Torrens ·
1303Steve wrote:the wife hates it.
🥲😂
silver ·
1303Steve wrote:The tail is growing on me, the wife hates it.
I like it too Steve, but did you spray a stock lid in case you or the wife changes your mind?
seagull ·
steve were did you buy the ally airflow ( MAF ) adapter ??
seagull wrote:steve were did you buy the ally airflow ( MAF ) adapter ??
I see you found them, they have got to be the bargain of the year
1303Steve ·
Hi
I bought these LED warning lights on UK eBay, they work well but are little bright, I will put light some window over them.
Steve
psimitar ·
to make the LED's less bright you just increase the bias resistor for them. More voltage across the resistor means less voltage to light the LED's 🙂
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks for that. Actually after driving the car more at night its only the high beam that bothers me, what size resistor would I need? Its a straight 12 volt feed from high beam.
I few goodies arrived last week.
A Griimspeed cross pipe, good for 5 HP and a AVO solid boost control actuator.
Steve
hellbugged ·
Cool, will you be porting the end castings too steve.... I'm doing the notch soon as well
1303Steve ·
Hi Damo
I've already done them on the head end out to the gasket, I will do them again to suit the bigger cross pipe.
Steve
matberry ·
Dash lights look good Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi Matt
Thanks, have you used yours yet? They are really clear and easy to see.
I've found my speedo a bit hard to read, the tacho needle is in front of the speed readout at most road speeds and when the needle is higher in the rev range I'm not looking at the speed, so I bought a HUD the same as Joel's.
The HUD is fantastic, so easy to read
Steve
matberry ·
No Steve, not used mine yet, love the idea of a HUD but need to upgrade to an L for that.......
1303Steve ·
Matt wash your mouth out, all the beam buggers would not consider an L bug an upgrade lol
1303Steve wrote:Matt wash your mouth out, all the beam buggers would not consider an L bug an upgrade lol
Got a beauty in the shop at the mo. 2176, 44IDF's and fresh red paint with polished wheels. Really sweet to drive (now).
You don't know of any shells about do you?
hellbugged ·
1303Steve wrote:Matt wash your mouth out, all the beam buggers would not consider an L bug an upgrade lol
x2 Matty..........🤓
1303Steve ·
matberry wrote:
1303Steve wrote:Matt wash your mouth out, all the beam buggers would not consider an L bug an upgrade lol
Got a beauty in the shop at the mo. 2176, 44IDF's and fresh red paint with polished wheels. Really sweet to drive (now).
You don't know of any shells about do you?
Hi Matt
There is a rusty 75 near me, Glen Torrens might have a spare. When everything is right on a bug they are pleasure to drive, bigger motor just makes them even better.
I'm a big wimp, just went to a Toyota wreckers and bought rear air con unit out of an 02 Prado, looks promising. The guy that pulled it out also said the Honda Odyssey has a small rear unit as well. I plan to mount it in the boot and blow back into the air box.
Steve
Jak Rizzo ·
1303Steve wrote:I few goodies arrived last week.
A Griimspeed cross pipe, good for 5 HP and a AVO solid boost control solenoid.
Steve
That looks exactly the same pipe that I made for myself, I didn't get anymore power on the dyno, but with the headers ported the boost came on sooner & smoother. Even driving it you could feel the difference
ricola ·
I'm probably going to make myself one over the holidays too.. Did you cut up an original to get the flanges Jak? What size tubing did you use?
Jak Rizzo ·
I used the original flanges, 50mm pipe with an expansion piece just like the one Steve posted, looks identical actually, it cost me $25 to make, it's no good unless the rest of the headers are ported though.
I'm amazed how small & restrictive it comes from the factory, I guess Subaru have their reasons?
1303Steve ·
Hi
My pipe is about 48 or 49 ID
Steve
humpty ·
Good to see your back into this one Steve. 👍
1303Steve ·
Hi Simon
Yep back into it now, I'm reluctantly taking it off the road to get the gearbox noise looked at. I just cant stop wanting to drive it.
I want to give myself plenty of time get it ready for the drags at Sydney.
After the gearbox is done I want to get it tuned properly, and turn the wick up, I just have the basic SM4 plug & play map in it now.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Well gearbox is out and I took to Michael Newton Automotive at Mulgrave to get him to strip it down.
His shop is small but impressive, he had a few million dollars worth of Porsche track & and street cars sitting around. He cant look at the box until next week as he will be at the V8 stupid cars looking after a couple of Porsche cup cars.
He warned me that G50s are a noisy box anyway and as I've made it well mounted in the chassis that could be the cause of the noise.
After talking to to Reub yesterday who also has a G50 in a Beetle I'm confidant that my gearbox noises are abnormal.
To get the gearbox out again, I had to remove the rear bumper, rear apron and partially remove the rear mudguards, not something I want to be doing too often
Steve
ian.mezz ·
reub incar.?
.
.
some noise in car from something ??????
1303Steve ·
Hi
Ruebs noise developed over a period of time, it was quiet at first.
Steve
ricola ·
1303Steve wrote:To get the gearbox out again, I had to remove the rear bumper, rear apron and partially remove the rear mudguards, not something I want to be doing too often
Steve
I've had to do that way too often recently too!
Made a start on my crosspipe...
1303Steve ·
Hi Rich
That looks good. I've been meaning to ask if you have experienced any gearbox noises form your G50?
Steve
debiasi4 ·
Hi Steve. Your car looks great I'm building a suby powered early notch for my wife. These guys have some great air conditioning bits. May help with your setup
Cheers Adam
ricola ·
I do get some bearing type noise at low revs when I'm driving off but it disappears with a few revs and higher gears. From what I found 'they all do that' to a greater or lesser extent, my box was low mileage too.. It did get better with an oil change, with the LSD install it had new diff bearings too.
psimitar ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Thanks for that. Actually after driving the car more at night its only the high beam that bothers me, what size resistor would I need? Its a straight 12 volt feed from high beam.
I few goodies arrived last week.
A Griimspeed cross pipe, good for 5 HP and a AVO solid boost control actuator.
Steve
Surprised the LED ain't blown yet. normally LED is 30mA max forward current @ 3.6v so hang on whilst I just do the maths. Yup 300ohms and use a 1 Watt resistor for heat handling. Done that from memory and rough common variables for high output LEDs so should be OK. 🙂
Joel ·
The LED warning lights like that are designed to run at 12 volts so they can just plug and play with built in resistors, same as the ones you fit for parkers, brake lights, indicators etc.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks for the input. Once I get the gearbox issue sorted I will look in to air con.
Adam I would love to see a build thread on the notch, Type 3s are just asking for a conversion
Hopefully my gearbox noise are not too expensive, if not I might treat the box to a Quaife, ZFs go for $3000+ down here, a Quaife is about $1800.
As Joel said its a LED module with the warning lights with built in resistors, I just want to turn down the high beam one, its way too bright and as you usually only use high beam on dark roads it makes it worse.
Steve
ricola ·
Hi Steve,
Do you have any oil in the intake? Thinking out my breather options atm...
Rich
1303Steve ·
Hi Rich
Its as clean as a whistle, the breather seems to be working OK.
Steve
psimitar ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Thanks for the input. Once I get the gearbox issue sorted I will look in to air con.
Adam I would love to see a build thread on the notch, Type 3s are just asking for a conversion
Hopefully my gearbox noise are not too expensive, if not I might treat the box to a Quaife, ZFs go for $3000+ down here, a Quaife is about $1800.
As Joel said its a LED module with the warning lights with built in resistors, I just want to turn down the high beam one, its way too bright and as you usually only use high beam on dark roads it makes it worse.
Steve
Hmm, maybe run an extra 150ohm inline with the high beam dash light then or buy a small potentiometer so you can turn the thing down till you are happy with the light level. 🙂
1303Steve ·
Hi
Motor and gearbox are out.
Michael Newton warned me before he pulled the G50 apart that they are a noisy transmission from the factory and Porsche went to great lengths to drop the noise levels, revised engine & trans mounts, dual mass flywheels etc.
He cant find anything wrong with it, he said that its in very good condition with none of the usual wear areas. So it appears that my noises are cause by my mounting method. I have a stock G50 mount at the front of the transmission, two Kombi bellhousing mounts like a top mounted Berg style mount and stock WRX mounts under the motor.
So I ordered a Quaife diff for it and he will replace a few bearings just to be sure and its better to setup a new diff with new side carrier bearings.
Its in good company at the shop as its full of Porsche Cup cars.
Steve
Craig Torrens ·
Hope you have your Porsche wallet with you 😂
psimitar ·
I hope they're going to give that gearbox case a clean before assembly? It's downright filthy 😂
seagull ·
This is the set up for a 207 or 257 for the oil vent lines
reub ·
Hi Steve, is your G50 an LSD or open wheeler?
And do you mind me asking where you sourced your Quaife from?
1303Steve ·
Hi Reub
I bought it from the Australian agent in New Zealand.
This is him and the 1800 number for him works from Australia.
PALMSIDE IMPORTS LTD
Preferred Australian Distributor
287 Hoon Hay Road
Christchurch, New Zealand 8002
Phone: 1800 760198
Fax: 00643 3389050
Email: mail@palmside.co.nz
My diff was open, my G50 is from a base model 88 Carrera.
I've read mixed reviews on Quaifes, they are not much good in a hill climb situation where one wheel is in the air, but for the price compared to a ZF its cheep and is a much tougher centre.
A ZF is around $3000, the Quaife delivered is $1423
Steve
Sides ·
Yeah - I found Palmside were a great mob to deal with
👍
I've had both Quaife and ZF in Jezzi and completely agree with what Steve's said... ZF for a track car while for a mainly street car I'd go the Quaife every time.
Wait till you drive it first time in the wet with the Quaife Steve.... you'll be amazed at how predictable the handling is still.
😎
reub ·
Thanks Steve
seagull ·
I can hook you up with Chris to fit the diff in Perth Reub
1303Steve ·
Hi
I had a Quaife in my yellow 1302, they have no handling vices which cant be said for other LSDs.
Rudi ran one for years in his sports sedan and regularly two wheeled through corners and and says he didn't loose drive.
Oh and I'm adding to the budget surplus, $304.32, bugger
Steve
1303Steve ·
seagull wrote:This is the set up for a 207 or 257 for the oil vent lines
Hi
I ended up using a Grimmspeed oil seperator.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
My Quaife arrived today, pretty quick delivery as I ordered it on the 8th December. I will take it out to Porsche gearbox guy and with bit of luck I will have it running later in January, so on track to have a run at WSID.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
My AVO solid boost control actuator had a manufacturing defect, when I pointed it out to them, they sent me an upgraded billet unit, great customer relations.
Steve
SebastienPeek ·
Now that kind sir, is how some companies win at customer service!
Glad to hear at least someone is being looked after in this day and age, especially with everyone else complaining about customer service.
How long until the gearbox is already to be put back in?
Top work on this car by the way Steve, definitely one of my favourite 1303's.
I absolutely love that whale tail too, that's the one from Hölzl correct?
Craig Torrens ·
yep, Palmside is great to do business with.....my quaife will be here early Jan 🙂
1303Steve ·
H
Thanks Senbastian, glad you like it.
I bought the AVO part through Tunehouse in Sydney, they were great to deal with as well.
I just took the Quaife out to Michel Newman, they are closed for 2 weeks so I should have the box back not long after that and I will get it running real soon.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Still waiting on the transmission to be finished, parts are all there just needs to be assembled.
I replaced my cracked 930 CV boots with some eBay ones, great quality.
Some time ago I read post on another forum by Ricola who is also on this forum about clocking CVs. After a bit of search I found the information on doing this. You can read more about it here http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Still waiting for my transmission to be finished off.
I used a plastic windscreen washer bottle as my water to air intercooler reservoir.
It always looked a bit cheap so I bought a aluminium one from eBay and had Westi fit two 3/4 bungs and a two bosses so I could fit a level indicator.
Excellent work as usual from Brad.
Steve
vlad01 ·
very nice welding on that.
1303Steve ·
Hi
My gearbox is ready to be picked up, turned out to be not as expensive as first quoted.
A few photos, the intercooler tank in place.
I have big feet so I decided to make my own front speaker enclosures using ready made speaker bases.
Steve
Joel ·
That was exactly the same as how I had my front speakers installed at one stage.
The pods still got in the way on the drivers side.
give it a try, see if you have the same problem.
1303Steve ·
Hi Joel
I'm really pressed for speaker space so I will see how it goes, I wanted to keep the speaker base away from the accelerator pedal.
I fitted the gearbox today, motor tomorrow. I'm not sure if I want to drive it this weekend with double demerits.
Steve
vlad01 ·
other solution is not to have any at all.
that's what I do with all my cars. either stock speakers or none, depends on what its options were from factory.
1303Steve ·
Hi
the only speaker space on a 1303 is a single speaker grille on the right hand lower edge of the dash.
I do like to listen to the radio and ipod and blue tooth will be handy.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Gearbox and motor are back in, just doing a few odd jobs as the weather is too shity to drive the car in.
The Grimmspeed cross pipe has altered the rexy rumble, more toned it down.
Steve
Bizarre ·
Steve
Cant put speakers in a rear parcel shelf??
Or the rear side panels??
1303Steve ·
Hi Barry
I will put some in the back as well but I haven't made a parcel shelf yet, I want to do one of type that goes upto the bottom of the rear window.
Rear side panels might be easier, how affective are they in rear side panels.
Steve
I think this might be Joels car.
hellbugged ·
Not a good sound from the side panels Steve.... And makes getting the back seat up and out a pita!
1303Steve ·
Hi Damo
Good point.
I mounted my header tank and inter cooler reservoir very high in the engine bay so I will need to make the parcel tray easily removable in case I need to fill either tank on the road.
Steve
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
the only speaker space on a 1303 is a single speaker grille on the right hand lower edge of the dash.
I do like to listen to the radio and ipod and blue tooth will be handy.
Steve
have you ever thought about mounting small speakers inside and under the dash corners pointing down to direct sound towards the foot well?
or 2 small speakers side by side in the stock grill so at least you have stereo sound instead of mono.
I would love to set mine up like this but I cringe at the fact there is no place for a radio in a type 3 that doesn't hang like dogs balls.
So I opt for no radio at all 👍
even those retro sound radios don't look right at all.
1303Steve ·
Hi
All my under dash area is taken up with relays and wires.
I had it running toady and drove it for about 15 minutes and then the weather turned bad.
Transmission still has noises but nowhere near as bad as before and it seems to be just one noise now, not a variety of noises. I've decided to keep the extra mountings that I've fitted even if they do transmit noise.
I fitted an extra brake light bulb in tail light housing, just in case and also I've made a move to a more permanent coolant overflow reservoir.
I'm using US style tail light lenses.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Car is running again with the rebuilt transmission, still noisy but now I know I'm not doing any damage.
Booked in for a dyno on the 18th and will also have a knock module fitted to the Autronic SM4 at the same time.
I'm sorting out ride heights now and just having fun driving it. I'm also setting up the waste gate actuator.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Just went out to my test track, the RMS were doing truck inspections there so I had to wait awhile.
I only wanted to setup my low boost pressure or gate pressure which will be my everyday drive around boost pressure, it made 13.9 psi in 2nd gear.
When its on the dyno we will set up the Eboost to make 20 psi when needed.
Steve
matberry ·
Good stuff Steve
14lb is nice.....20 better. 🙂
reub ·
I still remember vividly experiencing 18lb boost...seemed like endless power, and in third gear equated to 175km/hr... ah the memories.
Really look forward to hearing how it all goes Steve. Might get me cracking on mine again too👍
1303Steve ·
Hi
Its great on 14 psi, cant wait to try 20 psi. Looking forward to running the 1/4 but I'm really looking forward more to doing a few super sprints.
Steve
lou0060 ·
20 psi will be a weapon! can't wait to see it at Wakefield Steve.
1303Steve ·
Hi Lou
Are you coming down for the 1/4 & supersprint?
Steve
1303Steve ·
My son took a couple of cool photos with his phone today
lou0060 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi Lou
Are you coming down for the 1/4 & supersprint?
Steve
Hi Steve, not making the 1/4 as we are up to our necks with the shop atm. Definitely will be there for the Nats with what I hope will be a very quick car......
1303Steve ·
Hi Lou
Have you had anymore seat time in the bug?
I want to go down to Wakefield and have a play around before the event to sort out swaybars etc.
Steve
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:My son took a couple of cool photos with his phone today
wicked! looks great.
what is that box ruining the view in the photo? 😢
SebastienPeek ·
That fitment is perfect!
How much did you drop it at the rear? Preferably in minutes if you know.
Also the front?
Curious as to what the wheel specs are and tyres as well.
Looks damn good though Steve, I'd love to build a Subi powered bug one day.
1303Steve ·
Hi
the box is my sons car which I spend too much time working on, but love driving.
I have 944 adjustable spring plates so I don't know degrees & minutes, I just make a mark on the spring plate with a marking pen and keep moving around the base point until I'm happy.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I took the bug over to Westside today for a little bit of exhaust work.
The O2 sensor was in an awkward place, Brad told me he had 90 degree fittings for O2 sensors, so I fitted one.
Paul who works at Westside did a great job fitting an extra mount to the system and making the tailpipe go straight out rather than dumping on the ground.
And a random shot that I took outside Vintage Vee Dub the other day.
Steve
matberry ·
reub wrote:I still remember vividly experiencing 18lb boost...seemed like endless power, and in third gear equated to 175km/hr... ah the memories.
Really look forward to hearing how it all goes Steve. Might get me cracking on mine again too👍
I had an 1800 Golf that we cranked up to 23lb boost. It was a real weapon. Luke Pell drove it to Dubs gy the Pub back in the day and it got him addicted to power. When you wound it back, 12 psi felt like a stocker..... 🙂
Also had a mates baja at 15-17lb WRX. it was fun on the beach, thats for sure.
Get it cranking Steve, you won't look back, except maybe at the cops disapearing in the rear vision mirror. 😂😂
I think the biggest problem other than the law, will be the terminal velocity with that G50 box and 20lb of boost....it'll have legs that will just keep on running......Woo Hoo🤪
Flintstones ·
That shot @ VVDS looks great Steve 👍
Cheers
D
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks guys.
I'm not sure if I want to try to run it all the way in 5th gear, could get scary, imagine getting the Superbug wobble at 200 kph +.
Steve
hellbugged ·
That's not all the way.........that's only 6000rpm 😀
Yeah big difference between 14 and 20psi with these lil motors.......
........and for you info Steve, the notch went 1.10seconds at Wakefield with only 16 psi, worn out tyres and no rear trailing arm bushes 🤪.......you have quite a weapon at your disposal here ❗🥷😎😘
matberry ·
244 kmph......I wonder when lift-off occurs? 😂
lou0060 ·
244kph sounds like a real handful. You'll need at least Conrod straight to get it wound right up!
we'll probably be out together at Wakefield so looking forward to that. had another outing at Lakeside in Jan but was running really high temps as it was about 40 degrees ambient. both turbos are working but ran into the speed limiter at 180kph so have just bought a Mines No 2 ECU which will raise revs by 500rpm and eliminate the speed limiter. Also increases the boost ceiling. Should be here in a week or so so will post some info then on my thread....
where did you get the speed calculator?
ricola ·
Looking good out in the wild Steve 👍
1303Steve ·
Hi
There's no way I will find the limits of the bugs aerodynamics, but 5th is nice on the freeway.
My car has sat inside for too long near a river and has now developed a little bit of rust, the paint guy said he will fix soon but he wants me to treat the area with some fish oil first.
Cant wait for Wakefield Lou, but cars a bit heavy, 1080 kgs +
1303Steve wrote:My son took a couple of cool photos with his phone today
that looks insane steve, bloody nice.....
vlad01 ·
matberry wrote:244 kmph......I wonder when lift-off occurs? 😂
well over 300 apparently.
seen few of videos of suby 1303s doing close to 300 on the autobahn
if you setup the suspension and areo correctly it will stay stable until you run out of power to go any faster.
matberry ·
vlad01 wrote:[if you setup the suspension and areo correctly it will stay stable until you run out of power to go any faster.
Cool.
There you go Steve.....put the pedal to the metal dude.😂
vlad01 ·
there you go.
Joel ·
Steve, here's Wallys Lbug doing 220km/h on the autobahn and that looks like its sitting still.
running 17psi boost too
I haven't been game to take mine past 180kmh, it felt stable enough but I was running out of road.
Jak Rizzo ·
mine does 225kph (6100rpm) down Eastern Creek straight & it feels fine. Just like going to church on Sunday morning
I have taken it to just shy of 7000rpm a couple of times on a private test track, years ago when I was young & care free........
Both times the car felt fine, I'm sure the front spoiler with the air intake for the radiator had quite a bit to do with the stability.
Superbugs were made for these speeds😂
I love when you are doing 140kph in 4th & you put your foot down & it squats & takes off. LMAO. It never gets old.
vlad01 ·
Jak Rizzo wrote:mine does 225kph (6100rpm) down Eastern Creek straight & it feels fine. Just like going to church on Sunday morning
I have taken it to just shy of 7000rpm a couple of times on a private test track, years ago when I was young & care free........
Both times the car felt fine, I'm sure the front spoiler with the air intake for the radiator had quite a bit to do with the stability.
Superbugs were made for these speeds😂
I love when you are doing 140kph in 4th & you put your foot down & it squats & takes off. LMAO. It never gets old.
absolutely the front spoiler would help. with VWs flat floor pan unlike other cars it would really help to create a strong vacuum to hold the car down. Vacuum + large flat surface area = strong down force.
I want to put a spoiler on my type 3, seen some pics of a front spoiler and its to die for. looks sick but tasteful for an old car at the same time.
lou0060 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
There's no way I will find the limits of the bugs aerodynamics, but 5th is nice on the freeway.
My car has sat inside for too long near a river and has now developed a little bit of rust, the paint guy said he will fix soon but he wants me to treat the area with some fish oil first.
Cant wait for Wakefield Lou, but cars a bit heavy, 1080 kgs +
I'm not eating again until next week, do you think shaving my head will help?
lou0060 ·
only if you have a sunroof or the drivers window is down....😂😂😂
1303Steve ·
Hi
Disappointing day at the dyno today.
With all the heat buildup around radiator because of the lack of airflow, the fuel pump started to make funny noises and cavitate and was making the motor run hairy over 5,000.
So I have a safe tune upto 5000, I will need to tune the eBoost at the track.
So no power figures as such but I did see 169kw on the screen once, the dyno is a very old but a good one but is not hooked up to printers etc like later dynos.
So the question is do I have another dyno run to get a peice of paper that I can flash around or just leave it as it is.
I also will need to rethink my fuel pump layout.
Steve
sander288 ·
I think get it to the drags in Sydney and your little slip will be all the paper you need 👍
Birdman ·
Maybe we didn't need to buy those Aero guards afterall? lol
1303Steve ·
Hi
I just had a thought.
I'm running a VSS of my front wheel so the ECU wasn't receiving a speed input on the dyno.
I'm also using the factory fuel pump controller which varies fuel pump speed depending on power loads.
So I wonder if my ECU wasn't upping the fuel pump speed because it thought the car wasn't moving ?
Steve
SebastienPeek ·
That sounds like exactly what it could be, if your fuel pump speed depends on the speed of which the car is moving, it would be starving the injectors.
Hopefully you can get it resolved, but maybe something like Joel's setup around the rear axle is needed?
Thanks for the chat yesterday too!
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
I just had a thought.
I'm running a VSS of my front wheel so the ECU wasn't receiving a speed input on the dyno.
I'm also using the factory fuel pump controller which varies fuel pump speed depending on power loads.
So I wonder if my ECU wasn't upping the fuel pump speed because it thought the car wasn't moving ?
Steve
can't you just reconfigure that in the ecu program?
hellbugged ·
🙁
Move the sensor to the rear
Do another dyno session Steve, that's not enough!
You should be over 200kw and 8000rpm easy peasy
What pumps and regulator are you using?..........rising rate regulator is enough on the notch with pumps running constant speed.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Im using a VDO sensor that runs off the speedo cable, so that cant be moved, the G50 has an electric speedo output, I may be able to use that for VSS.
My fuel pump was making some horible noises on the dyno. Its an eBay 044, I callled into the local EFI spares place today, it appears to be non genuine so it could be a Chinese copy.
I bought genuine 044 from them, I will fit that tomorrow. Next week I will move the surge tank and pump to the rear of the car.
At the moment I have a Carter lift pump under the tank, the surge tank and 044 are mounted in the boot just in frront of the fuel tank.
The amount of heatsoak onthe
1303Steve ·
Hi
Im at the side of the road using my work data terminal, it just went funny, so I made the last post before it lost what I had just written.
The heatsoak on the dyno was incredible, the bulk head under fuel tank inside the car was almost too hot to touch.
I will get another dyno soon but I want to get all my isuues sorted first.
Nice to talk to you Seb, how did you get on with Kmac?
Steve
SuperOwen ·
How do you like the e boost? I think they leave a lot to be desired in the user friendliness department.
1303Steve ·
Hi
I always have to read the instructions for the eBoost when I want to change a setting, then next time I go to use it I forget how to use it. That's what 21 year olds are for.
Its good for bringing up peak boost and revs.
Steve
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Im using a VDO sensor that runs off the speedo cable, so that cant be moved, the G50 has an electric speedo output, I may be able to use that for VSS.
My fuel pump was making some horible noises on the dyno. Its an eBay 044, I callled into the local EFI spares place today, it appears to be non genuine so it could be a Chinese copy.
I bought genuine 044 from them, I will fit that tomorrow. Next week I will move the surge tank and pump to the rear of the car.
At the moment I have a Carter lift pump under the tank, the surge tank and 044 are mounted in the boot just in frront of the fuel tank.
The amount of heatsoak onthe
haha that will do it.
ebay is your friend though.
🙅🙄
SebastienPeek ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Im at the side of the road using my work data terminal, it just went funny, so I made the last post before it lost what I had just written.
The heatsoak on the dyno was incredible, the bulk head under fuel tank inside the car was almost too hot to touch.
I will get another dyno soon but I want to get all my isuues sorted first.
Nice to talk to you Seb, how did you get on with Kmac?
Steve
Geeze, a lot of heat is not good!
I spoke to Kevin, he seems to be keen to do it.
Just need to make sure it is what I want (money wise, it is a bit steep) and that it'll be compatible with a strut brace and so forth.
Thanks for the pointers with the camber though, may have a play with that before going the Kmac way!
SuperOwen ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
I always have to read the instructions for the eBoost when I want to change a setting, then next time I go to use it I forget how to use it. That's what 21 year olds are for.
Its good for bringing up peak boost and revs.
Steve
Even the instructions were fairly hopeless and the tech support guys had no clue either!! I think I've got the hang of it now, but still don't like it very much.
1303Steve ·
Hi
There is some good you tube videos that I found helped me. What sort do you have? I have an eBoost 2.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I thought that I would post some photos of my 044 pump and surge tank. Next week I'm going to move the 044 and surge tank to the rear of the car.
I've changed the surge tank layout a little, I was running my return line into the fuel tank, I'm now running it into the surge tank.
I originally had it setup so that fuel returning form the rail would go into the tank and cool a little, I think only relying on the lift pump would maybe make the surge tank run out of fuel during in high demand.
I also made some fill panels for my whale tail out of black perspex and secured them with M5 nutserts and stainless M5 Allen screws.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm waiting on some bits to do my in-tank 044 fuel pump, booked in next month for a tune at a Central Coast Subaru guru.
I've been driving around without any sound system since I got the car on the road, so I now have blue tooth for my phone, Ipod and radio to find out why I'm held up in traffic.
I fitted a JVC unit I've had for about 6 years waiting to be fitted, I also fitted a cup holder on the bottom of the radio bracket.
I also fitted a resistor in my high beam warning light circuit, it was way too bright and while I had the dash apart and I also installed an air intake temperature gauge.
I made up some front speaker mounts, I bolted these into the front footwell area. When I was drilling holes for the nutserts I used a bit of conduit to prevent my drill from going in too far and damaging the inside of the front 1/4 panel, its also handy if drilling near wires etc.
Steve
1303Steve ·
A couple of random photos I took at the Sydney German Autofest
cnfabo ·
I have to say again Steve, that is FAT!!!!!!!!!!!
dangerous ·
Your 1303 turned out fabulous Steve!
Well done!
1303Steve ·
Thanks guys, your comments mean a lot to me
humpty ·
The Volkspower days are way behind us hey Steve.... But still the phat bug brings a smile and warms the cockles.... Track time next?
1303Steve ·
Hi Humpty
We still have my sons 1303, I'm collecting bits for a big oxyboxer for it.
After I get my car tuned I will run it at the Club VeeDub Supersprint in May and the VWMA drags a few weeks later, I hope to do a run at WSID and Wakefield before then to get the cobwebs out.
Steve
hellbugged ·
So dyno again?
1303Steve ·
Hi Damo
I'm getting a dyno done, I'm on a Subaru WRX forum and the tuner Michael South Engineering comes with lots of good recommendations
I've been collecting bits for my in tank 044 pump set up.
A friend has a Mazda Famlia that he tracks and he had a spare fuel pump housing that I could use for my set up.
I went to my local EFI place http://www.afiaustralia.com.au and scored pump inlet filter, then I had my neighbour turn the 044 inlet fitting down to fit into the filter.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm also upgrading my intercooler radiator to a proper PWR unit.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Bit of an update, thought that I was booked in today for a dyno, its next Friday.
I had Brad at Westside modify my fuel tank to fit my 044 pump internally.
I washed the tank out 4 times with hot soapy water, no surprises
Pictures tell the story.
Steve
1303Steve ·
more stuff, I had Brad fit a Kombi tank sender, it was the only one Vintage VeeDub had in stock with the same ohm reading as my VDO fuel gauge. works great, I put 10 litres in and it read 1/4, filled it up and it read full, my tank holds about 46 litres. The stock 1302/1303 send would have been in the way.
A friend has Mazda Familia track and he gave me one of his spare pump housings, Brad gave a me useful tip, buy the special in tank hose for the fuel pump connection, normal fuel hose will disintegrate over time.
So I went to http://www.afiaustralia.com.au/ and picked up the special hose, I bought the special pre pump sock from them earlier
1303Steve ·
forgot to say in the previous post, the reason I went in tank pump was to reduce the heat build-up in the pump, I covered the fuel hoses with some 1303 vent hose covered in an insulating tape.
I drove the car last night and the new PWR intrecooler radiator seems to be doing better than the old RS liberty one I had before
1303Steve ·
the 1303 fresh fan housing cover is held in place by self tappers and speed nuts, I've never liked that so I used some M6 J nuts.
The one complaint I have of the K Mac strut tops is that if I ever need to remove my strut brace I would loose the camber & caster settings, so I drilled out one of the strut brace holes and used a M8 rod joiner in place of the normal nut, now if I need to remove my strut brace to remove my fuel tank I can use the one nut to hold it all in place
lou0060 ·
nice to see more progress. Looking forward to Wakefield and seeing it in the flesh.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Went for a dyno today on the Central Coast, caught up with Jak for a coffee while I was there.
Didn't make as much as I was expecting, with a few teaks he said it should make another 30-40 kWs
Steve
silver ·
I think thats plenty of HP....if you can eeek out some more fine, but it must be a hoot to drive 👍
ian.mezz ·
yep there be more in it, Josh had 225hp out of his stock wrx bug on a 40deg summers day.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Its sssooo much fun to drive, it doesn't know what a hill is. I love freeway on ramps.
Horsepower and dyno figures all vary, this motor is rated at 195 kw from the factory, so 172 at the wheels is pretty good, over 200 will be insane.
Is Josh's bug still running or is it like last nights fireworks? A big flash then its ash.
Steve
Mick058 ·
How are your temps etc Steve? Running smoothly?
1303Steve ·
Hi Mick
It ran really sweet with the in tank fuel pump setup, I took the cover of the top of my radiator so the dyno fan could blow on the radiator and fuel tank, oil temps never got over 90c.
He said the variable camshafts settings were all over the place and it was running very rich.
I need to change the dump pipe to a different design, his website has some very useful tips on Subaru engines http://www.msengineering.com.au/ The thing I like about MSE is he races a Subaru so he knows them back to front and he loves Autronic.
He has suggested going back to stock crosspipe and a stock wastegate actuator, he said the boost didnt hit as hard as a normal STI would, he blamed these things for doing that.
Apart from the odd blast on the M5 & M7 I've not taken the car on the open road, it ran really sweet going up the F3, intake temps were just above ambiant and the oil temp hardly moved, the water temp was between 85-90 c.
Steve
Jak Rizzo ·
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Jak Rizzo ·
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Jak Rizzo ·
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Jak Rizzo ·
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Jak Rizzo ·
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Doug Sweetman ·
Scrubs up alright Steve !!
Very nice indeed.
1303Steve ·
Thanks Jak, great photos, I'm coming up again soon to get Michael to modify my dump.
Thanks Doug, doesn't show in the photos but the paint has got a few issues
ian.mezz ·
yep, Josh vw still going well sort of 🤪
His got to learn to stop doing burnouts in first gear 🤪
hills and on ramps so much fun . 😊
Jak Rizzo ·
1303Steve wrote:I'm coming up again soon to get Michael to modify my dump.
hey, what you do in your own time is your own business!
1303Steve ·
it needs a good rogering
Doug Sweetman ·
Lol. Is the colour Guards Red ?
Jak Rizzo ·
Doug Sweetman wrote:Lol. Is the colour Guards Red ?
what, of his dump?
1303Steve ·
Hi
I was thinking that the wire on my Mazda in tank fuel pump may have been a bit puny to run the Bosch 044 pump.
I trawled the Internet to find a place that sold bulkhead fittings for in tank pump wiring.
Normal car electrical wiring is not fuel proof, I found these units on the HOERR site, not cheap but good insurance, there made by Fuel Safe.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I still have a heat issues in the fuel system, I had to use the car in peak hour traffic last week and the pump started to make some funny noises after about an hour of it, then when I had some clear road I booted it and it appeared to run rough.
After my meeting when everything was cool again it was back to normal.
I'm pulling the pump tomorrow to check on the pre filter as it may collected some crap from the recent tank up grades and to fit my heavy wiring.
Does anybody know of durable cover material that I can fit over my fuel tank?
Steve
Joel ·
You've probably told me before but are your fuel lines through the tunnel or under the car?
1303Steve ·
Hi Joel
There in the tunnel, I'm thinking of putting them outside would help. My boot area gets warm so insulating the tank would help I think, but fuel hoses outside would cool the lines down.
Steve
Joel ·
That;s what I was thinking, I'll be doing the same if I ever need to rerun mine.
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm going to change one thing at time with my fuel system, first is the upgraded wires to the 044 pump.
I'm leaving for Wakefield soon and will be cold down there so I don't think fuel tank heating will be an issue.
Steve
SebastienPeek ·
As you know Steve, I love this.
If I'm ever in your neck of the woods, I'll be contacting you or Dave and you're taking me for a drive.
This bug is brilliant.
1303Steve ·
Thanks Sebastian, your more than welcome to come over anytime.
At Wakefield I found the coolant temps got up a bit after 4 laps, around 105 c so I will do a bit more shrouding around the radiator air intake, air intakes were 40 c.
Other than that the car ran well on low boost all day, the driver needs some work. My best time was 1:15.0680, the Quaife worked well, I think it helped having no sway bars on the car, it had great traction out of corners, the front felt a bit slippery but after Rudi and Paul told me to harden up, I got a bit more heat into the front tyres and it was much better.
I only did 4 heats, filled up at Marulan about 50-80 ks away on the way down and on the way home and I used 18 litres, very economical.
Steve
video
mactaylor ·
nice video steve plenty left in it for you to improve will be a VERY fast car when you are done! nice nice nice!
1303Steve ·
Thanks, I'm going in for another tune soon, but its not more power that I need, its more seat time
1303Steve ·
Hi
Some photos from the Supersprint last weekend
Steve
1303Steve ·
some more
1303Steve ·
more
1303Steve ·
more
Jak Rizzo ·
I think u should raise the back of it a bit
1303Steve ·
Hi Jak
I did, but it really squats about 35 mm under acceleration, I will give it a bit more.
Steve
vlad01 ·
awesome! I want one.
1303Steve ·
Thanks vlad
I made up this scoop to fill in the open part of my chassis and to direct air up to the radiator. I also filled gaps between the radiator and the shroud so that any air coming through the grille has to go through the radiator.
My friend Neil at Rust Right did all the folding and guillotining for me, he made my A & B stiffeners for me, give him a call if you need any rust repair panels made up (0414 478 052).
I assumed that all was working well as I had no issues driving on the street, driving at higher speeds showed up the weakness in my design.
Craig Torrens ·
hope you don't knock the hoses off .......maybe worth making a guard for them 👍
Might be worthwhile uprating your torsion bars on the rear too, to get rid of the squat under acceleration.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Craig I'm using 3/4 plastic garden sprinkler elbows. I'm trying to source some steel or aluminium ones, they are up pretty high so they haven't been scraped yet but I get your concern.
I got some aluminium tubing to make my new fuel lines from Westy, another part turned up today a fluid cooler. Its very solidly made, I use it to cool fuel on its return to the tank.
Steve
vlad01 ·
i really like the grille, look like its always been there.
Craig Torrens ·
vlad01 wrote:i really like the grille, look like its always been there.
that's because its a vw factory grille 😂
1303Steve ·
vlad01 wrote:i really like the grille, look like its always been there.
They were used on US spec Beetles just in case the owner wanted to fit air conditioning.
vlad01 ·
really? I did not know that. I was going to say it looked too perfect for someone to have done it as a mod.
1303Steve ·
Hi
I made a drawing for my friend to use to cut up and fold my radiator scoop, he still works in inches.
I've been driving the car around today, the weather was not all that hot today but I've noticed a difference, coolant temp always sat about 90 degrees, now its sitting around 82 which is just after the thermostat opens.
The thermo fan usually comes on if I've been sitting in traffic for a while, it didn't come on today at all.
Non 1302 or 1303 owners may not get what I'm saying about removing the deformation element from the front of the chassis.
The shaded are is where the deformation element usually sits, I had this section open so air would come into the grille and go back out bottom, not actually doing any work.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Some kilowatts were found today. My car was just below the DB limit on a DB meter, to be on safe side I stuffed some chicken wire up the exhaust, I thought it had been removed, it was found to be still in place, I think some of my missing kilowatts are here.
Steve
mactaylor ·
prob some of your temp probs too!
Bizarre ·
Phew....... Though you were about to say you were doing a rust repair 🙅
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm hoping that it fixes a few issues, another dyno is booked for Tuesday.
Its going in to have a few paint blemishes fixed after the drags.
Steve
hellbugged ·
🤓
lou0060 ·
where did you get the fluid cooler from? looks like a good idea to get the overflow back to the tank at a lower temp.
And you'll need to find a few more kgs of chicken wire now that I have both turbos working......
oh, great photos too! car actually does look orange!
1303Steve ·
So Lou do you want me to stick chicken wire up your exhaust so I can keep up with you?
okay, that's the guys at Toombul. I get a few bits and pieces from them as well and they are not far from my place. got my window net, fuel fittings, roll cage foam, race boots and socks, and a few other bits.....good guys there.
as for the chicken wire, nah, you probably still got the upper hand; your older (more experianced), you got struts -more cmaber, and heaps of electronical wizardry in that beast of yours.....
1303Steve ·
Hi
Just got back from the dyno shop, good news is that kilowatts were found as well lots of torque.
Shame its raining, I had to behave myself.
Steve
Bizarre ·
😵💫
Gotta be happy with that??
500 NM is a shit load
Is the blue line before??
lou0060 ·
looks like a great run on the dyno Steve.
I gather you upped the boost from 15-16psi to around 20psi to get the final figures. Are you going to ran that as standard pressure or do you have a boost controller so you can back it off for day-to-day running?
shouldn't have any trouble doing a burn-out at the weekend then.....
1303Steve ·
Hi
MSEdyno 2 is high and low boost settings on the e Boost 2, blue is low, red is high. MSEDyno 1 is just two different runs.
The E boost 2 defaults to lower setting which is about 16 psi on start up, I need to select the higher setting if I want it.
Its a heavy car so I will see how it goes on the weekend.
Steve
hellbugged ·
That's more better !
sander288 ·
holy shit that thing is a torque monster!!!
A brand new Carrera S has 440Nm 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
1303Steve ·
Thanks guys,
I'm not sure how to compare flywheel torque to torque at the wheels, this was the result that the tuner had predicted, I'm pretty pleased as this is a stock low kilometre motor and will last a long time, so apart from changing cams or turbos or even stroking it out to 2.2 this is it.
Steve
Craig Torrens ·
that should see you into the 11's this weekend.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Its a heavy car, I will be happy to do low 13, maybe a 12.
Steve
Jak Rizzo ·
If I can do a 13.0@103mph with only 8psi boost & 152kw @ the wheels, taking it easy off the line
u will do an easy 12 with 20psi boost & 204kw! U could do a 12 in reverse!....................then drive back to the staging lanes without a tow car...................
reub ·
Jak Rizzo wrote:then drive back to the staging lanes without a tow car...................
👍
Craig Torrens ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Its a heavy car, I will be happy to do low 13, maybe a 12.
Steve
My car is 1640kg (without driver) with 210-215kw atw.......12.5@109mph
My 4 yr old daughter could do 12's in your car Steve 😂😂😂
1303Steve ·
Craig Torrens wrote:
My 4 yr old daughter could do 12's in your car Steve 😂😂😂
has she got a helmet
1303Steve ·
Hi
Its been wet lately, so now its a little drier now so I went out a local free way to run up to the speed limit.
Steve
Camo ·
Great stuff Steve, but I think you may need to take me for another spin in it now that the exhaust isn't choked up 😂😂😂
Kev
vw54 ·
yr standing in it again
1303Steve ·
Hi
After the failure of my front tyres after Wakefield and the tyre importers saying that cracks are normal and not to worry, I had some ADVAN Neova AD08R fitted today. Cant wait to try them.
Thanks CT
Steve
Craig Torrens ·
👍
1303Steve ·
Does my bum look less fat like this?
1303Steve ·
Hi
Richard Holzl just got me in a set of 28 mm short bars. The're made in Japan and sold by Latest Rage in the US.
I'm running 26 mm short bars now which are much too soft, I hope that these will stop some of the squat I'm getting under power.
Steve
Pickpocket ·
I'm curious how those bars will work also. I installed a set of 944 bars in mine and it feels awful stiff, but I don't have the engine or anything in it yet so hopefully that helps soften it up a bit. As is though, I can't even bounce on the rear of the car with my full weight (240lbs) and get the rear end to move.
vlad01 ·
I am curious how you work out the required bars without actually trial and error.
hellbugged ·
Jeff works out in his head the % increase of stiffness with increasing bar diameter.... It's pretty cool to witness (60th birthday slipped past yesterday)🤪
Ben Durie commented last time watching the notch, that it was dropping too low.... Surprised that it already had 29mm
1303Steve ·
Hi
The 26 mm bars really let rear end drop under power, 28 mm bars are the next step I guess.
Below is a chart I found somewhere on the net, I'm not sure how accurate it is.
I wished Onion a happy birthday the other day but I was too early.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Pickpocket wrote:I'm curious how those bars will work also. I installed a set of 944 bars in mine and it feels awful stiff, but I don't have the engine or anything in it yet so hopefully that helps soften it up a bit. As is though, I can't even bounce on the rear of the car with my full weight (240lbs) and get the rear end to move.
What size 944 bars are you using? I have 23.5 in my sons bug, same as Type 3 wagon, they help but could be stiffer.
mactaylor ·
hellbugged wrote:Jeff works out in his head the % increase of stiffness with increasing bar diameter.... It's pretty cool to witness (60th birthday slipped past yesterday)🤪
Ben Durie commented last time watching the notch, that it was dropping too low.... Surprised that it already had 29mm
Hi mate Whats the notch weigh
hellbugged ·
I have not seen the exact number, but it's not lightened at all really
If it's not the full ton it would be into the 900's at the very least
Heavy wheels, bracings, kombi box, radiators..... Not to mention the lump in the back
I'm imagining similar to steves bug with it's fiberglass components but full street trim
mactaylor ·
Thanks mate. Steve if squatting is reducing your front end grip then bigger bars are the go, So prob needs 28mm short or 30mm long, Well thats my prediction if its gunna get punted hard. was watching some Khana cars today and it makes me happy that we have the best of both worlds with our humble little dubs!
1303Steve ·
Hi
My car weighed in at 1080 kgs, it maybe slightly more now.
I'm stuck using short bars as put a gearbox where the long bars would normally sit.
I was getting some under steer at Wakefield, heavier rear bars should help with that.
Steve
mactaylor ·
Maybe one of the hillclimb boys might chime in or maybe greg or paul zanello, these dudes have way to much experience, they prob hang out in the AC side of things to much! GIRLS!
PAZZAN ·
this will be hard ,nice road car or fast race car 😵💫
Jak Rizzo ·
Found this Stevie!
I've emailed the owner to see where he got the body from, very cool!
Jak Rizzo ·
.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Jak that's a cool RC car I would be interested to find out more about getting a shell like that one.
Paul my car is way to heavy to be a race car but the rear torsion bar strength is an issue, you can feel the rear squat down on the street, its like driving a boat the way the back sinks down and the front rises.
Steve
Camo ·
Steve,
you gave us a little tease a week or so ago with one photo of your fat rear end, I personally would like to see more with the new paint job please.
Kev
Flintstones ·
Steve, have you thought about using coilovers in the rear?
vlad01 ·
mactaylor wrote:
hellbugged wrote:Jeff works out in his head the % increase of stiffness with increasing bar diameter.... It's pretty cool to witness (60th birthday slipped past yesterday)🤪
Ben Durie commented last time watching the notch, that it was dropping too low.... Surprised that it already had 29mm
Hi mate Whats the notch weigh
stock notch weighs just over a metric ton. 1035kg to be exact for late early is rumored to be 980kg ? but I can't say that figure is right or not.
1303Steve ·
Hi
I've been giving coil overs some thought but the issue that I have is the axle is very close to the shock body because I've moved everything forward so much.
Camo, missus is on the warpath so im doing what I'm told and not touching the car much, I've just been assembling doors etc
Steve
OZ Towdster ·
Ah it's all good Steve ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, we've all been there , and respect the golden rule of "happy wife happy life ".
Seriously though i would have thought that short bars would make the rear end fairly stiff , some of it is not just shockies is it ???
Andrew
Joel ·
vlad01 wrote:early is rumored to be 980kg ? but I can't say that figure is right or not.
880kg 😉
1303Steve ·
OZ Towdster wrote:Ah it's all good Steve ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, we've all been there , and respect the golden rule of "happy wife happy life ".
Seriously though i would have thought that short bars would make the rear end fairly stiff , some of it is not just shockies is it ???
Andrew
Hi
I also thought short 26 bars would have been on the heavy side, I'm running 944 Konis, I've tried full hard and full soft, it still sinks under power.
You can see in these photos how it sags under power.
My dad is a twin, were having his 85th birthday this weekend and his sister and my cousins are staying at our place so all the jobs I've been putting off are being done whether I like it or not.
Its a funny story, my dads name is Jack and his sister is Jill, 85 year Jack & Jill
Steve
ian.mezz ·
🤪😂🤪
.
vlad01 ·
Joel wrote:
vlad01 wrote:early is rumored to be 980kg ? but I can't say that figure is right or not.
880kg 😉
I seen other figures too including that one. Let me see what I find in my VW operator manuals.
seems vw ball parked a lot of figures with the type 3. Especially the EFI models, different vw literature sated different specs for some of the same stuff.
interesting how they state on your pic the weight with driver for the SB but without for the sedan?
EDIT.
got a wheels road test, fastback. doesn't state the year but judging by the colour and IRS rear its a late model, at least 69. some BS weight measurement cwt? anyway got 780 or 883kg.? sounds wrong either way
Then in my VW owner's manual its states unladen weight is 1010kg for fastback and 1035kg for square from 70 on.
69. models state 960kg across all body types.
67. 920kg for sedans, 950kg for square
65. 910kg for sedan, 1025kg for square.
ect etc...
I would take that the official owner manual would be the most accurate.
Yes but most VW based shockies are valved for bugger all dampning on compresion and are more active on the rebound , but with your car you probabley need both mabey ????
matberry ·
OZ Towdster wrote:Yes but most VW based shockies are valved for bugger all dampning on compresion and are more active on the rebound , but with your car you probabley need both mabey ????
Not just VW shocks but all shocks are valved this way to decrease the impact of bumps into the car (except maybe some offroad racing shocks). Shocks are a dampening device and will not effect the squat your experiencing Steve, only the springs/torsions will change it (or radical suspension design/geometery mods)
1303Steve ·
Hi
This is a crappy photo that shows how close the axle comes to the shock body.
LA Performance in the UK do a coil over shock that might work, he can make them to any specifications so I'm sure 944 would be no trouble.
The 944 rear shocks are very similar to IRS Beetle ones but use a larger M14 bottom bolt.
968 Porsches with the M30 option use a coil over helper spring, but a pair of shocks is $650 Us plus shipping without coils and top mount
Nice chatting to you tonight Damo and thanks for the info.
Steve
ps thanks for all the input guys
matberry ·
My 2c is just go bigger bars, I ran 30mm shorts on stock IRS arms in my old baja in the 80's (ie no body work and air cooled), IMO 28 is still too small with all that weight out the rear.
lou0060 ·
Ian's car looks as if it's about to wheel stand!
Steve, I get hardly any squat on mine even under full boost. I am running short 30mm and also a pretty heavy Whiteline rear sway bar which holds it all very tight. Ok for a track car but finding a balance for road use will be a difficult task. At least you have a short sump, I'm still running the stock sump. And if you find that RC body, I'll have one too, it's cool!
Craig Torrens ·
A good option is to fit the largest bars first.....then "turn them down" on a lathe if the spring rate needs to be altered. Its easy to remove material, but you can't add to a torsion bar 👍😉
Pickpocket wrote:I'm curious how those bars will work also. I installed a set of 944 bars in mine and it feels awful stiff, but I don't have the engine or anything in it yet so hopefully that helps soften it up a bit. As is though, I can't even bounce on the rear of the car with my full weight (240lbs) and get the rear end to move.
What size 944 bars are you using? I have 23.5 in my sons bug, same as Type 3 wagon, they help but could be stiffer.
I didn't measure them before I put them in. I just know they're the stock bars that would go into my old '87 944 (N/A, not turbo).
1303Steve ·
Hi
They should be 23.5, that's base size for standard type 944s. Its the same size as Type 3 wagon bars which are a factory upgrade over standard IRS Beetle bars.
Steve
vlad01 ·
Craig Torrens wrote:A good option is to fit the largest bars first.....then "turn them down" on a lathe if the spring rate needs to be altered. Its easy to remove material, but you can't add to a torsion bar 👍😉
wait? what...? you can do that?
wouldn't that compromise them?
1303Steve ·
Hi
Still putting my bug back together, boy I hate doing the doors the most.
I thought I would post a photo of the reinforcement in my drivers door.
My friend John who used to own this car had a new drivers door fitted when the girlfriends father backed into it.
He bought a new door from VW, it was the last one that VW had in stock. It had no external mirror hole but an intrusion bar fitted inside, this door is noticeably heavier than the passengers door.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Doors back together, a word of caution, I tried to reuse the inner scrapers and long felts, total waste of time, bought new ones today from Vintage and it all went together so easy and the windows wind up and down easily now
mactaylor ·
vlad01 wrote:
Craig Torrens wrote:A good option is to fit the largest bars first.....then "turn them down" on a lathe if the spring rate needs to be altered. Its easy to remove material, but you can't add to a torsion bar 👍😉
wait? what...? you can do that?
wouldn't that compromise them?
I think that is the point! Torsion bars are not case hardend.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Car is back on the road, I thought I would get a stock lid painted when the car was resprayed, I was lucky to find a 76 lid in the for sales on here, thanks Pazzan.
I like it, I will keep the tail for speed events.
Steve
Bizarre ·
you happy with the sit height ??
Cause it looks sweet 👍
1303Steve ·
Hi Barry
Thanks, that's where I think I will leave it height wise
Paulc1964au ·
beautiful car saw it on Friday night 🙂
PAZZAN ·
looks great👍👍👍
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks guys, I forgot to say that all I had to do to fit a stock lid was to turn the air cleaner around 180 degrees.
Steve
gordysbeetle ·
Love it Steve. Shit hot n shiny.🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
matberry ·
👍👍👍
Stock deck-lid does it for me, looks great Steve
Joel ·
Noticed any change in your intake temp?
cam070 ·
Stock lid gives it a real sleeper look. Would love to see you scare a few young blokes in their flash cars.
hellbugged ·
So how do the bigger torsions feel?
Jak Rizzo ·
Stevie u need to get that air filter out of the engine bay, or at the very least enclosed (not just so it's legal) so that it only sucks cool air from outside the engine bay, that's exactly how I cracked my No.3 piston ringlands 8 years ago, summer is coming too.
Looks so much better with the stock lid
1303Steve ·
Hi Guys
Thanks for kind words.
I haven't given it too much but the intake temps seem to be not much over ambient driving to Harrys the other night and out to coffee & cars on Sunday.
I want to get Westy to make some sort of filter box that will suck air from the rear vents but not let water get sucked into the motor.
I would have gone the same way that you did on your car Jak but the reinforcing I put in the engine bay gets in the way, I will use the tail for any speed events, its an easy swap over.
Torsion bars are on hold until some saw away ones arrive soon.
Steve
vlad01 ·
like any standard bonnet scoop air box, mounted up to the vents with a soft foam seal will work well. small drain holes at the bottom and even drain hoses if you like. Water wont get sucked in.
1303Steve ·
Hi
That's the sort of thing I was thinking, but maybe go to a panel filter.
I went over to see George at Classic today to pickup a rear parcel shelf, its a 31° + day today, the inlet temps were 50° after shutting the car down for a bit and it then back down to 40° after driving a bit.
Steve
vlad01 ·
I would go for a Uni filter mounted in a box.
A bunch of us guys on another forum decided to test different filters after K&N ones weren't actually filtering dirt( had this problem myself)
We found uni-filters flowed faster and filtered better than OEM paper such as ryco an heaps better filtration again over the K&N
I've been a bit nervous about how my 2nd hand 930 CVs would handle Warwick, so I bought a set of German race prepped ones from http://hunterrivmasta.com.au.
They are made by GKN, have chromemolly cages and under sized balls.
Bob at Hunter Rivmasta is real gentleman, so if you need any driveline bits give him a call. He was $88 cheaper per joint than another Australian supplier.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Bit of pleasant surprise, after working all day on a massive landscaping project that I've been working on for a while, I decided to bite the bullet and change the CVs tonight.
I was expecting to have to remove my rear trailing arms to get my axles out as I built reinforcing on my chassis forks and the CVs sit deep inside the aluminium 944 trialling arms, well the extra splines on the SAW axles allowed me get the axles out.
As a bonus a found a self tapper lodged in a rear tyre, it hadn't gone deep enough to cause a puncture but it could have worked its way further in over time, maybe at Warwick.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I had a great weekend away at Warwick. I was lucky to win my bracket in the VW body other engine category, particularly after not being able to find 3rd gear.
Yogie ·
Well done Steve but what does "dial in" mean on the printout?
yogie
lou0060 ·
that's the wrong time sheet for the final Steve. And you didn't win! I lost! But missed gear beats red light in drags like paper beats rock..... well done mate it was great to finally have a run with you. Now I can't wait till Wakefield again....
lou0060 ·
Actually Yogie that is a terrible time sheet Steve put up! It was for a run he did against Barry Roberts in his Subi powered kombi. If you look at the numbers the dial in is what you expected to run. The idea of braket racing is to beat the otehr guy to the line without going faster than your dial in. As you can see from this time sheet both Barry and Steve red lighted as their reaction times are negative but Steve was not as bad as barry so took the win. But you can also see that Steve "broke out" as he actually went faster than his dial in 8.631 against a dail in of 8.9, soooo a double baddy, red light a a break out and yet still a win! You are good Carter!
1303Steve ·
Hi Lou
It will be good to have a run around corners next time, it must be more arse than class for my win.
This is the time slip from the final, you can see my mph dropped as I rolled across the line
lou0060 ·
I've watched the video a few times today and I have a brusie on the back of my head where I keep hitting myself! Looking at your numbers I think you would have broken out if you had found third gear! You were 0.367 off your dial in and must have dropped 20mph in the last 100ft so had I not red lighted and had you found third we would have had a cracker finish......
oh well there is always next year.
PS, I've re-routed my turbo cooling line and James and I are welding up a new return line to the radiator with a bleed up top and a feed at the bottom. Watch out Wakefield!
Craig Torrens ·
What does your car weigh Steve ?
I'm trying to understand why 204kw atw only gets you 8.6@84.84mph ??
1303Steve ·
Hi
It weighed 1080 kg when it was engineered, I've fitted a few more things since then, I will get it reweighed.
Why doesn't it go quicker? It was going quicker every run as I was getting used to the car, I changed my dial in from 9.9, 9.7, 9.6, I was lucky not to lose when I broke out, the people I ran against red lighted. My final run was looking good but I stuffed up 3rd
Hope your head gets better Lou. Can't wait to hear if the the cooling modes help.
Steve
Jak Rizzo ·
the run was over at the end of second gear anyway Steve.
Mine has done 8.3@84mph taking it easy off the line, so yours should do a 7 easy as you have an extra 70hp @ the wheels than mine.
but it's the 1/8th mile, who cares?
Birdman ·
Craig Torrens wrote:What does your car weigh Steve ?
I'm trying to understand why 204kw atw only gets you 8.6@84.84mph ??
He was taking it very easy and getting wheel spin off the line. New car first run down the strip Craig. Just bedding everything in. Knowing the car well i can say it would do 11s all day and 10s with slicks.
matberry ·
wow Birdman, that's fast talk right there
1303Steve ·
Hi
I think 10s or 11s is a big call.
Maybe I could have launched harder if I did a burn out, I was getting better times almost every run, but in the round robin leading up to the finals wasn't the time to do this, I should have tried it during practice.
Steve
Birdman ·
matberry wrote:wow Birdman, that's fast talk right there
I know, but i watched a 150 Flywheel kw WRX powered beetle do 11.2 all day at santa pod and steve has 205 rear wheel kw.
matberry ·
yep, thats the difference with all the extra weight on board, No offence to you or your car Steve, but I'd be surprised if we even see a 12 in Feb
1303Steve ·
Hi Matt
No offence taken, I'm going to sort out my fuel heating issue hopefully this week and I will go out to WSID for a try on the 1/4.
You can hear the fuel pump in my video
Steve
Birdman ·
matberry wrote:yep, thats the difference with all the extra weight on board, No offence to you or your car Steve, but I'd be surprised if we even see a 12 in Feb
You are right there Matt, she is one very very FAT CHICK !!!
1303Steve ·
Hi
Just had my car weighed, it now weighs 1165kg with a spare wheel and full tank of fuel, very fat chick
matberry ·
Wow, she's a real porka
hellbugged ·
What's the weight of a Rex engine anyhow steve ?
matberry ·
And a G50 ain't light
Bizarre ·
What does a WRX weigh in at ??
1500 Kg's??
1303Steve ·
Hi
Just a reminder how big a G50 is.
Steve
Birdman ·
42 or 47 kgs, somewhere around there
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Just had my car weighed, it now weighs 1165kg with a spare wheel and full tank of fuel, very fat chick
holy crap, thats heavy for a bug
vlad01 ·
Bizarre wrote:What does a WRX weigh in at ??
1500 Kg's??
thought it was around 1250?
vlad01 ·
Birdman wrote:42 or 47 kgs, somewhere around there
is that the G50? wow not bad at all, pretty light if you ask me.
go to be better than muscling out a 120kg "light weight" auto from under a car.
ricola ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Just had my car weighed, it now weighs 1165kg with a spare wheel and full tank of fuel, very fat chick
That's not too far off mine Steve, the cab is about 1200kg fully wet with all the leather, stereo, sound deadening and chassis strengthening, cabs were always heavier anyway and I think I must have started with the heaviest type of bug every produced!
Doesn't stop it being bloody fast though! I also find that it has incredible traction, it just squats and goes... 😎
Rich
1303Steve ·
Hi Rich
Thanks for the info on your cars weight. It looks more weight just needs more boost to compensate.
I just over engineered the chassis mods, I used mostly 25x50x3mm RHS. It weighs 3kg per metre.
I don't know the weight of the G50 or the STI motor, does anybody know where I can find this info?
Steve
vlad01 ·
can't find any specs of the engine apart from someone claiming 400kg lol 🙅
searching around, G50 is about 66kg.(146 lb) still light considering if you ask me. Many gearboxes I have handles weight more than double this with less gears 🤪
1303Steve ·
Bizarre wrote:What does a WRX weigh in at ??
1500 Kg's??
WRX is 1390 STI is 1470
ricola ·
My chassis rails are mostly 40x60x3mm...
GTMac ·
Steve, whats weight of car with driver or is that like asking a woman how much she weighs? 😂
My Fasty tips in at 1050kg but I also keep adding crap to it. With your power mid to high 12's all day is very achievable. If I can manage a mid 12 with a 2.2 60ft, similar to your 60ft then sub 13's here we come. Harder 60ft and obviously better results.
BTW she is looking very sweet, cant wait to see it in flesh.
1303Steve ·
Hi Andrew
I tip the scales at 100-110 kg, don't get many to the ton.
I'm sure it can go quicker, it just feels wrong to try for a hard launch.
When I sort my fuel heating issues I will take it out to the creek for a test.
What sort of 1/8 mile time did you do?
Steve
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:
Bizarre wrote:What does a WRX weigh in at ??
1500 Kg's??
WRX is 1390 STI is 1470
thats really heavy for a small 4 cyl car. wth? what gives?
thats the same weight as 90s falcon 6 which were considered tanks because of their big weight.
Bizarre ·
^^^ guessing 4 wheel drive etc
reub ·
Last time I weighed my vwrx it was 950kg without me in it.
Heavy compared to a stocker but is so wel grounded with the additional weight and didn't get blown around in windy conditions like my 750odd kg 58 beetle did.
vlad01 ·
Bizarre wrote:^^^ guessing 4 wheel drive etc
what one extra irs diff unit? that still doesn't compare to the heavy ass live axle that the falcons have, their engine weight more than 250kg and gearbox over 120kg. Their bodies were renown as heavy as well.
where the hell is the weight in a wrx???
mactaylor ·
interior and sound deadening adds heaps. we stripped a mates and it ended up under 1000kgs before the cage went in.
vlad01 ·
shit! thats a weight saying and a half.
I reckon I could only save 50-75kg tops on any of my cars by stripping the interior, virtually no weight in the early 90s cars interiors.
most of my weight saving have been done by dumping the heavy auto for a manual. A saving of 70-80kg including the addition of a flywheel, also gain some HP and an extra gear haha. Fun times too 😁
mactaylor ·
it was every bit of unnecessary shit that was removed. REMEMBER! To increase speed add lightness!
vlad01 ·
I found the easiest way to drop the weight to the point you can lift the wheels off the ground with your hands. rip out the whole drive train lol After that I can roll the the body with my pinky on the shed floor.
it depends on the car, some are light as it it is due to simplicity and a diet wont yield much loss on the car, other like said wrx and no doubt modern cars in general are pigs due not to the body or drive train but all the gizmos, house worth of interior and noise dampening and bs alike.
Joel ·
I'll have to find out what my subi guys got his track WRX down to weight wise, I've helped push it in and out of the workshop a few times it weighs 2 parts of FA with fibreglass doors, carbon fibre bonnet, gutted interior etc and puts down 500hp at the wheels.
I'd be surprised if its heavier than a stock bug.
1303Steve ·
Hi
My car feels light to push around, I just drove back from the Southern Highlands and there was some very high winds, the car is very grounded.
Rueb your cars weight shows how much mine has put on as our drive trains are identical.
While I was at the Southern Highlands Motor Fest I got talking to some Subaru guys about improvements I can make, I'm going to contact them about what we talked about soon, too much weight, I just need more power.
My wheels are pretty heavy, I couldn't resist buying these wheels on eBay for track use, they will be a lot lighter.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I got around to fitting a fuel cooler and some alloy fuel lines, its getting hot down here now so I hope will if this has fixed my issue.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I had the 996 wheels painted and fitted some road tyres to them.
Steve
Bizarre ·
Can you post a whole car picture
Those wheels look brilliant
keep your other wheels as track wheels and keep these as the daily
That colour/style combo is the ducks nuts 👍👍👍👍
matberry ·
am liking the new wheels Steve 👍
STIDUB ·
Very nice Steve, one of the nicest Porsche designed wheels I've seen, until you get very very expensive that is.
Subarugears ·
Your gearbox is too heavy Steve, that's your problem for sure 😁
1303Steve ·
Subarugears wrote:Your gearbox is too heavy Steve, that's your problem for sure 😁
but a least the motor isn't dragging on the ground
boof2332 ·
Hi Steve,
I have been hiding away.. car looks great. With reference to air filter, I cut the top of my up pipe and turned it slightly and re welded it. My turbo intake subsequently is behind the intake manifold and runs under the throttle body and sits forward of the engine on the drivers side. All the cool air hits it before it reaches any hot parts.
Are you running a standard pressure reg? my old one used to play up when it got warm.
Matt
1303Steve ·
Hi Matt
Where have you been? Thanks, I'm using bigger silicone intake tube which I turned to 90° to face up, I'm looking to get Westy to make me a cold air intake that runs across the engine lid vents.
We will have to get together and compare our setups
I'm still running a stock pressure reg, mine should be OK I think, the motor has only travelled about 23,000 ks. My fuel cooler seems to be doing the trick so far, I was getting strange fuel pump noise after the car warmed up but they have gone now.
I'm looking into some more power upgrades, plastic intake manifold and another turbo.
Steve
boof2332 ·
Was it buzzing like there was air in it?
Started a new real estate office in Pennant Hills so been busy.
1303Steve ·
Hi
It made a very strange sound like it was cavitating, so it would sound like air was in it.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Well I finally got a chance to run my car on the 1/4 at the VWMA Sydney Showdown, really happy that it got into the 12s and I was runner up in my bracket.
12.751 @ 107.90
Weighed the car at the track, 1160 kgs add me and its another 115 kgs
Now that I have a bench mark time Im looking at changing turbos to a GTX style and going flex fuel with E85 down the track.
Steve
Craig Torrens ·
Congrats Steve......aim for low 12's now👍
TorxKiwi ·
I've just read all 20 pages of this thread. Unbelievable!!! What an amazing project.
1303Steve ·
Thanks for that, like you say its a journey
Flintstones ·
Great time for the first run Steve.
Cheers
D
1303Steve ·
Thanks Dino, 35 series tyres are not really made for good drag starts, I will need to find some cheapies with some sidewall to stick on the car before I go out again.
I'm off to Wakefield Park next Thursday for a private track day, I will fit my Simmons wheels back on with the Advan Neveos and try and improve on my times, I have 30 odd kilowatts more now, so that should mean it will go slower, I hope not
1303Steve ·
Hi
Just put some petrol in my bug, after filling up before the drags and doing 9 passes, driving over to St Ives in peak hour traffic and back home last night for a ricer meet I managed to use 28 litres to travel 242 ks, so 11.57 litres/100 or 24.41 mpg
1303Steve ·
Hi
I just went did a private track day at Wakefield with AGI. I took this video
Jak Rizzo ·
I'm glad now that I have the stock blow off valve on mine, which u can just barely hear, I think yours would drive me nuts, plus it wold attract unwanted attention
Steve do you not go back to second gear at the fish hook & onto the straight?
I would have thought the Porsche gears are taller than a beetle? 1st 2nd & 3rd?
What did you get your times down to?
1303Steve ·
hi Jak
That was actually no blow off valve, I found it was leaking on high boost on the way down I haven't had a chance to look into it yet.
I tried going back to second last year, it seemed to unsettle the car under brakes and then didn't last very long, I can see what you mean, I'm off boost coming onto the main straight, through the fish hook I have higher speed I think, well car seems to be on boost. I need to get my corner speed up onto the main straight.
Second gear is only a little bit taller than a Superbug second
I was having some over heating issues by the 4th lap so I only did a few sessions, the morning sessions weren't timed, I had a better go then with no traffic. The session in the video was a 1.17???.
I'm still learning, there are few things I will do before the Nats supersprint.
Steve
PS, in a previous session I did two 360s after the kink on the main straight so I was being a bit cautious
vlad01 ·
Nice video!
lol granny shifting ftw. I guess you don't want to beak the gearbox then. What is it? G50?
what are those other heaps of crap on the track? Looks like yours was the only real car there.
Craig Torrens ·
1303Steve wrote:I was having some over heating issues by the 4th lap so I only did a few sessions, the morning sessions weren't timed, I had a better go then with no traffic. The session in the video was a 1.17???.
Over heating after 4 laps ???
So you can only get 5 mins of semi spirited driving out of it ?
karmann141 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Weighed the car at the track, 1160 kgs add me and its another 115 kgs
Steve
AAAAHHHHH!! I see your weight problem - easy weight gains to be made by trimming down driver😂😂😂
vlad01 ·
lololol
time for the stig to take over from here. Not the American one or its back to square 1 😂😂
1303Steve ·
Hi
Ive driven it at freeway speeds on 30-40 degree days without issues, I thought I corrected this but needs more work. Its not boiling or anything like that, its just getting up to around 110c, not happy with that, oil temps were around 140c.
Steve
HappyDaze ·
Steve, have you tried Redline Water Wetter inhibitor ? It inreases coolant contact with metal surfaces, and can really improve cooling. Bigger oil cooler?
Of course air cooling is even better. 😂
Craig Torrens ·
HappyDaze wrote:Of course air cooling is even better. 😂
😂
1303Steve ·
sorry I forgot the graduations on my oil temp gauge, it was about 80c, inlet temps were about 55-60c. I will look into Redline water wetter stuff.
I've only run this car twice in anger now, I'm still learning and sorting it.
At last years VW Nationals Supersprint it was overheating as well after few laps, I made a scoop up to close in the air intake area and sealed around the sides of the radiator, it made a huge difference driving around normally.
only problem with air cooling is when the air gets hot
hellbugged ·
Got any pics of how the radiator is set up at the moment?
Saw an older pic a few pages back, I thought you would have it completely sealed/shrouded so once the air comes in the grill it can only pass though the radiator !??!
Jak Rizzo ·
Hi Stevie
I think the problem is that you don't have anything forcing/trapping air into the standard air con grill front valance. I'm pretty sure it wasn't designed to house 2 radiators behind it for an STI engine!
My radiator opening looks about the same size as yours, but my front air dam forces the air in, it has no where to bounce off & go under the car like your front valance.
Maybe think of putting a front air dam on with ducting just for track days?
I have only ever got my water temp up 92d & that was on a 35d day , in Summer at Eastern Creek after 6 laps flat out. Yours should be no different. I've never had the air dam off my car so I don't know if would get hotter without it, but just from a visual/common sense approach, I'm sure it would get hotter like yours.
Jak Rizzo ·
There's definitely no air being forced into that front grill Stevie
1303Steve ·
Hi
Thanks for the input guys. Back a few pages I showed photos of the scoop I fitted that fills in the area around the sway bar.
I'm planning to make the scoop a bit bigger and with a bit more angle on its leading edge.
I'm also going to add some Redline water Wetter to my coolant, after reading what is said about it could help with my heating issues.
Steve
to save going back a few pages the photos of my scoop
Joel ·
Hi Steve,
Is your fan running while you're on the move?
I'm wondering if it's just a lack of open surface area with that valance although I wouldnt have thought the EJ would run any hotter than your wasser did.
The reason I canned fitting a US valance on mine is I think they just don;t have enough open area.
When I first got my conversion up and running and had slots like yours I noticed a big difference in highway temps when I cut the slots into one single big hole and fitted the mesh.
Seems a shame to have to do any bodywork though.
The hottest it saw this summer was a 44c, the heat off my A/C condenser that day was probably simulating a 50c+ day to the rad but the peak recall for my temp hasnt got over 98c
Jak, I'd be interested to see if theres any difference in yours, it doesnt seem to make any difference with mine if the Kamei is on or not.
Craig Torrens ·
I'm sure Redline water wetting is a great product and worth using, but in this case isn't it just 'band aiding' a problem ?
Jak Rizzo ·
Joel wrote:Jak, I'd be interested to see if theres any difference in yours, it doesnt seem to make any difference with mine if the Kamei is on or not.
The track & the street are 2 very different environments.
It's very hard to replicate what the engine goes through on the track, on the street, unless of course you have P plates.
And all the reviews that I have seen on any benefits of water cooling additives , were so small you may as well have a spray bottle in the car, spray your face, stick your head out the window & convince yourself the engine is cooler just because your face is.
Cynical I know, but as Craig said, it's a band aid & a band aid on a missing limb at that
HappyDaze ·
Craig Torrens wrote:I'm sure Redline water wetting is a great product and worth using, but in this case isn't it just 'band aiding' a problem ?
Sometimes, when surgery is not required, a bad-aid will do the job nicely.
Water Wetter works best with [distilled] water. System should be thoroughly flushed first. If it was me, I would try that first, before doing the 'surgery'.
hellbugged ·
The notch had temp issues till I completely shrouded it to the grill area.... So any air coming in had no other route than to pass thru the radiator.
I liked westi explanation and execution of this theory way back on mick058 conversion
I would try a slim line fan on the back of the radiator and try and get rid of all the corners and square box areas that heat can not flow out of .
check out the sort of plastic scoops that are on the front side of your hilux radiator .
a plastic scoop under the radiator that fits tight on the bottom of the Radiator .
1303Steve ·
Hi
When I fitted the scoop I noticed an immediate drop in temperature to just above the thermostat opening temperature, so I think I will improve that with a deeper angle bit at the front.
I was worried about ground clearance issues so I was a bit conservative with how deep I made the angle on the edge.
Street driving the fan never comes on, in fact by the time I got back to the pits it was all just about back to normal. On the street it acts much like a modern car, get stuck having to idle and the fan comes on after a while and cycles on and off.
I will do some more research and report back, I bought the Redline today, pretty cheep, about $25.00 and it treats 18 litres. I'm not sure how much my system holds, just researching that now, the only thing that worries me is that there is no anti freeze in it and I sometimes stay at Wakefield overnight which can get pretty cold.
Steve
HappyDaze ·
Tim & Dave have used Redline W-W for the last 4 years in the Lotuses, and over-nighted at Bathurst,W.Park, and P.Island....no problems. They used W-W in the intercooler as well.
Make sure you really flush and clean the system well, as the cleaner the metal, the better it works.
PAZZAN ·
YEP
Mick058 ·
hellbugged wrote:The notch had temp issues till I completely shrouded it to the grill area.... So any air coming in had no other route than to pass thru the radiator.
I liked westi explanation and execution of this theory way back on mick058 conversion
Daimo, i too had heating issues - so not sure if i'd use the way my car was as the bench mark to what works.
vlad01 ·
do you have a flap behind the radiator like all other factory cars do? I am pretty sure that would be the problem if you dont have one.
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm using an Audi 100/200 fan and housing it has the rubber speed flaps like most VAG have.
The scoop on Micks car is much more aggressive than mine, I will do something as aggressive on mine.
Steve
Jak Rizzo ·
Drop that scoop u made another 2 inches, u have heaps of room, but more importantly Steve, paint your wheels black, black wheels are so 2014😎
1303Steve ·
Hi Jak
I will drop it down some.
Ive gone staright to 2015 with charcoal wheels😂
ian.mezz ·
may need to drop the radiator down a inch or two, the heat raises and could be getting trapped in the boxed alloy radiator cover. 😊
Jak Rizzo ·
1303Steve wrote:Ive gone staright to 2015 with charcoal wheels😂
bugger that, get some globes for it😎
1303Steve ·
Hi Jak
Memories, she was twin as well, maybe the Globes will come back in the 80s, the 2080s.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I've been thinking about different solution for my overheating issue.
One thing I've been thinking about is moving my inter cooler radiator into the front guard, this would give the incoming cooling air a much better shot at the radiator.
Steve
ian.mezz ·
you need to fill up the space on the side of tthe radiator .
pool noodles work good to fill in space and they dont hold water and the round shape helps direct the air into the radiator core ,as it looks like the air can get around your radiator . i think that old fan is also pushing air staight twards your fuel tank ??? the air needs to be directed down so at speed it gets sucked away under the car .😊
ian.mezz ·
you could just move that other cooler just down to the passenger side front of radaitor and just space it away a bit more .😊
1303Steve ·
Hi
That's an old photo, I've filled in around the sides since then, I used really dense foam from Clarke rubber that I cut to shape and glued in place. The inter cooler radiator is a tight fit, there's not much room to move, the 10 inch fan on the inter cooler radiator is on when when the inter cooler water pump is running, there is a massive Audi fan at the back of the radiator.
Do you have another panel that goes from the top of the rad to the fuel tank that's not installed in the photo?
ian.mezz ·
1303Steve ·
Hi Damo
The radiator has a cover over it, made by Westi
Steve
1303Steve ·
ian.mezz wrote:
Just got a new PC, gone from XP to Windows 7 so I'm trying get things to work including sound, I will have a look at those links when I can hear them
ian.mezz ·
1303Steve wrote:
ian.mezz wrote:
Just got a new PC, gone from XP to Windows 7 so I'm trying get things to work including sound, I will have a look at those links when I can hear them
I would be inclined to take the big fan off the back of the radiator and put the 10 fan from off the front on the back and then go for a blast down the fwy in 2nd or 3rd gear and see what the temps do .😊
1303Steve ·
Ian its not a problem on the street no matter what I do, its only after a few laps on a track that it gets hot
ian.mezz ·
1303Steve wrote:Ian its not a problem on the street no matter what I do, its only after a few laps on a track that it gets hot
yeah. I know
I am just thinking of things so that I could take it for a blast down the FWY 😊😂😊
Jak Rizzo ·
The radiator needs to be lower, mine is about 300mm lower than yours , it's laid back on an angle but the air that comes in the inlet, hits all the radiator surface area, I think , especially at speed, the top half of your radiator isn't getting any air flow, I don't think moving the intercooler radiator will help. All cars running WAIC setups have their intercooler radiator in front like you have yours, it's very common.
My intercooler radiator almost covers my engine radiator as it's quite large, almost twice the size of yours & I don't have any overheating problems
vlad01 ·
radiators do not flow air efficiently by being forced by air ram. They flow far better with a low pressure behind them pulling air though.
it doesn't matter that the radiator doesn't have direct air flow on to its surface.
The problem is there is a lack of a flap Behind! the radiator, which is there to generate a vacuum behind the radiator. Air then will be pulled through across the surface as all areas of the radiator have the same (similar) flow resistance potential. So that means air will automatically flow up and through the top of the radiator regardless if its covered.
you just need to study what engineers have done on modern water cooled cars, especially mid to late 90s where grilles on cars were tiny, yet can cool a V8. Your front intake is pretty big compared to some of the late 90s falcons and a like.
Jak Rizzo ·
The only experience I have with radiators is with my own wrx conversion, which is now almost 9 1/2 years old & has covered 259'987klm's, including 27 track days without overheating. I don't have a flap or shroud behind my radiator either. But, the air going into my front air dam has nowhere to go but through the radiator.
I think must have got incredibly lucky.
I also heard one day whilst watching the V8 supercars (hey I was bored) Whilst they were driving slow on a yellow flag, that they were all concerned about the rising water temps because they don't run fans on their radiators, they rely completely on air being rammed into the radiator. I was a bit surprised by that.
1303Steve ·
Hi Jak
I bow to your experience with this, I'm going to look into laying my radiator down, on my WBX Beetle I had the radiator tilted forward and had a much larger radiator fitted, but when that car was turboed I only usedit on one track day for a few laps at Oran Park, but when it was NA I ran it at Raleigh without any issues.
I did about 80-100 ks yesterday about 1/2 on freeways at 100-110 kph, it was a pretty hot day, 25-30 c, the whole time the temp sat on about 87C, that's where the thermostat opens, if I wasn't wanting to use the car on the track I would be entirely satisfied with my cooling systems performance.
vlad can you elaborate on this flap behind the radiator comment?
Steve
Jak Rizzo ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi Jak
I bow to your experience with this, I'm going to look into laying my radiator down,
Steve
Don't get me wrong Stevie, I'm the first to tell you that I had no idea what I was doing! I laid mine down on an angle so that I still had full use of my boot space! LOL!
Funnily enough, a couple of years later after doing my conversion, I was reading in a Porsche magazine that an aftermarket company called Cargraphic, who specialize in hotting up Porsche in Germany, designed a kit for watercooled porsches that did away with the 2 separate radiators, went to a single radiator & laid it back on an angle which was reported to increase down force by 9kg per what ever speed, can't remember.?
I took the rear wing off my car when I did the conversion & it feels fine over 200+kph, so maybe the front radiator laid back helps???
It's all speculation without a wind tunnel😂
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi Jak
I bow to your experience with this, I'm going to look into laying my radiator down, on my WBX Beetle I had the radiator tilted forward and had a much larger radiator fitted, but when that car was turboed I only usedit on one track day for a few laps at Oran Park, but when it was NA I ran it at Raleigh without any issues.
I did about 80-100 ks yesterday about 1/2 on freeways at 100-110 kph, it was a pretty hot day, 25-30 c, the whole time the temp sat on about 87C, that's where the thermostat opens, if I wasn't wanting to use the car on the track I would be entirely satisfied with my cooling systems performance.
vlad can you elaborate on this flap behind the radiator comment?
Steve
I can take a pic to explain it a bit better.
I'll use my VR as the perfect example. It doesn't have direct air flow to the radiator, it can flow air as low as 30km/h without use of fans, heck the radiator's core was over 50% blocked too. Never gets over much about stat temp (92º).
All water cooled cars from at least 80s run this flap.
When I used to build water cooled computers, The best setup was draw though. you got far more air flow drawing the air though with the fans rather than pushing it though. Every ºc was critical for overclocked PCs, so cooling system knowledge and experimentation, development amongst the community is huge. Automotive cooling designs are similar from my experience.
Also I think you should run an auxiliary water pump up front, I am pretty certain 996 and 997s do as they are rear engine and front rad.
matberry ·
Agree with the cooling flap idea on the fan area outlet. Modern cars cooling system are dependant of the undertrays to make the venturi effect work which draws the air thru the radiator from behind which is more efficient than trying to force it thru from the front...... or so I hear 😉
vlad01 ·
That is absolutely correct.
I have a multitude of cars under-tray setups I can snap a pic of each to give you guys the idea.
ian.mezz ·
that's what I said , lower the radiator.
it don't need any flappy things on the back , Subaru's have slim line radiators fans, it doesn't have the heat knock on effect like a Subaru where the heat from the radiator is blowing heat back onto the motor. the radiator could be smaller and wider if any thing. I have a little radiator in mine and I test it on the45deg days in 3rd gear at 110Ks fwy.
Steve realy doesn't need to change anything just do track days in winter 😊
Jak Rizzo ·
better still Stevie, rig up the air con & blow it straight onto the radiator, there you go, problem solved😂
Any power loss will be compensated with a bigger Turbo!
Jak Rizzo ·
I retract my last statement Steve, new grill idea, now the problem is solved.
Although it may open up another problem.....................
1303Steve ·
Now Jak thats just silly, those wheels would look horrible on my car,
btw just did an RMS check on that rego, no engneers report so it must be a stocker
ricola ·
Steve,
The first thing I would try is to put a straight air damn across the front of the car, you could fill in under the valance down to the bottom of your guards and all the way across, maybe leaving an opening for your existing scoop. This way you create high pressure zone in front of your valance and direct air up to it (bit like my Kamei). With my speedster, extending the scoop forwards made a massive difference as the air hits the bumper and then gets diverted down at an angle, missing the rad intake, having the lower part of an air damn would catch this flow and convert it to pressure..
Rich
PS Pretty sure my 996 doesn't have any other pumps than the engine mounted one. The GT 911s tilted radiator works in conjunction with a new top vent ahead of the bonnet line, that would have the main aero effect and draws air through the rad, the angle is just to give space to package it behind.
1303Steve ·
Hi Rich
I'm going to try tilting the radiator first so that it gets a more direct airflow, I really like the look of the air con grille in the front of my car so I will do everything I can to keep that.
The point you make about the bumper diverting airflow makes a lot of sense, maybe I could make up a temporary scoop for track days. I've only had this problem after a few laps on a track, there's noway I could have this issues on the street without getting arrested or maybe going to Europe and driving on an autobahn.
Steve
ian.mezz ·
here you go cardboard don't hold heat.😂
ian.mezz ·
On my dub all the hot air gets pushed out before the front suspension bulk head. I still have most of my spare wheel tub there,
My radiator sits Below my bonnet catch .
the hot air just comes out the space in the picture between radiator and front bulk head . I rolled the front apron lip down and painted the bottom of the radiator black so people don't even see it
ps I have never race my car . 😁
vlad01 ·
pics as promised.
here few examples.
note on this ford, the radiator is smack bang int he middle where the ford badge is. the intake is just big enough to jam your fist in there. Just compare to the number plate. The bottom of the radiator is just flush with the intake, the top is level with the bonnet protector.
under it.
my daily, under neither
the other car
flap seen from the engine bay.
1303Steve ·
Thanks vlad, that makes it clear now, just like the Toranas GTR & XU1s used. So I have few avenues to pursue, I'm going to do some work on this issue after Powercruise
Craig Torrens ·
Good to see you're going in for surgery 😉
vlad01 ·
if you wanted to cheat adding one of these flaps. You can pick up one like one my car from a wrecker for few bucks. its only clipped on with the 4 retaining clips you see there. its made out of a soft rubbery like plastic and can take a thumping.
Its soft enough you can trim it down to suit with a knife. That thing has hit foxes, hares, buckets, rocks, coffee table, brooms, tiles, plaster board, paint tins and all kinds crap the rat race of Melbourne tosses on the road.. Still there as you can see.
1303Steve ·
Hi vlad
I will find something to make it out of that is flexible, luckily where I need to mount it is near the front wheels so it will be lifted up most times as the wheels hit a bump
vlad01 ·
I would just grab a VP-VS lip. its pretty generic fit and can fit just about most cars. I have a couple laying around if you need more detailed pics of it by itself.
its about the same width as the front of my notch too.
boof2332 ·
Hey guys...
I have talked about this a lot and have played with lots of set ups.. my bug runs too cold.. I have to block some of the radiator in winter.
The key to the whole thing working is having the shroud that the radiator sits in, go past the bottom and sides of the radiator.
It might not make any sense, but all the pics in the posts before showing the black plastic between the front spoiler and front suspension on all cars, is only there for one real reason.. to cause a low pressure behind the radiator to allow air to be drawn through it, not pushed. Air cannot be pushed through, regardless of the size of the scoop, if the air behind the radiator is higher or the same.
My shroud on the sides and underneath goes about 7cm past the back of the radiator. This simply stops air filling the space directly behind the radiator causing high pressure. What it does do is cause a vacuum behind the radiator and air is drawn through.
I always refer back to an article I read on air flow where some guys too the black plastic shroud off a wrx and air was rushing straight up behind the spoiler and pressuring the engine bay so much so that not only did the car get instantly hot.. air was actually going backwards out the bonnet scoop as the pressure in the engine bay was greater then the air hitting the scoop.
Did any of that make sense?????
Matt
1303Steve ·
Hi Boof
All of the input is helping me get my head around what I need to do, thanks everyone.
I did a bit of driving Saturday and it was a hot day. I went to Hare & Forbes at Northmead, out along the M4 sitting on 110 kph to Mulgoa where I was able to give the car a good squirt up some back roads and then back to Lugarno, the whole time the temperatures sat on just under 90 C.
This sort of driving is not an issue, its only on the track that I have a issues after a few laps, hopefully with a few mods I can get this problem sorted.
Steve
boof2332 ·
Ok..
My turbo water line also doesn't go back into the motor, rather into the manifold where the heater core is supposed to return. That way the boosted water goes directly to the radiator, not back through the engine.
I did so much shit to my motor to make sure it didn't run hot and that my air intake temps were as cold as possible..
Hope you sort it out for the track..
matt
1303Steve ·
Hi Matt
My turbo water does the same return path, it goes back down near the thermostat and heater core return.
Steve
Joel ·
Matt, are you running a hotside thermostat setup or the stock Subi one?
Jak Rizzo ·
boof2332 wrote:Ok..
My turbo water line also doesn't go back into the motor, rather into the manifold where the heater core is supposed to return. That way the boosted water goes directly to the radiator, not back through the engine.
that's exactly what mine does as well, it goes no where near the thermostat, giving it no chance to go through the engine
1303Steve ·
Hi
On the stock WRX header tank, the turbo water goes in it as well as a an outlet to the thermostat housing, I originally had these hoses teed together and feeding in to my T25 header tank, when I joined them together and bypassed my header tank, my running temps dropped about 10 c.
Before I did this my cooling system would gurgle after shutting down
I was advised to do this on VWKD.
Steve
Steve
lou0060 ·
hi Steve, some good discussion here. the key is definitely to generate a lower pressure behind the radiator as a few have suggested. Remember whatever air goes in to the front of the radiator has to come out somewhere so you need a path out to get that air out. Also, the route of the cooling fluid is also really important and I am also playing around with that as well as I have the same issue, under low load all is fine but run at high revs with turbos boosting and it all gets hot! And I don't mean for a 100m sprint, I am talking about 5-6 laps at 6000rpm-8000rpm.
I am interested in what people are saying about sending the turbo cooling fluid somewhere other than the stock location. When you say your water goes to the thermostat housing can you clarify that it is going into the housing behind the thermostat and in fron to the pump. If so that water goes back thru the motor. Also with your water pump how many lines in does it have? Mine has 3 not counting the main hose. One is for the oil cooler, one for the heater core and one for the turbo line.
I am in the process of changing ,mine around and will have the turbo line now feeding into the main radiator in hose and I have drilled 6 holes 4mm diameter around the thermostat so I have continous flow. Then I am connecting the heater outlet to the top of the filler tank, (where the turbo line used to go) and then the return from the filer tank will tee off to the thermostat and also to the return heater line. Hope that makes sense.
I have also completely enclosed my radiator front and rear and have 4 x 100mm flex tubes feeding the air coming out of the radiator and venting up to the vents under the rear window. I'll post some pictures on my thread when I have it finished and I will be testing at Lakeside next weekend.
HAve you got the original fluid flow diagram for your engine?
1303Steve ·
Hi
I've just done heaps of cruise laps often at full throttle & high boost at Powercruise in Sydney, no cooling issues at all and it was pretty hot yesterday & today.
This is how I explained my cooling circuit on vwkd.com
I've since joined the two hoses from the header tank, one from the turbo and the other to the thermostat.
whats the coolant for the TB for? is the idle controlled thermostatically or something?
1303Steve ·
They pass coolant through the throttle body to prevent icing, I've deleted that
lou0060 ·
that's good Steve but I'll tell you what me concern is, maybe I have read it wrong. If you have taken the coolant line from the turbo and routed it to the radiator inlet hose, which is what I have done, what have you done to ensure there is continuos flow in that circuit? The water pump pumps coolant thru essentially 4 circuits; 1 engine and heads, 2 oil cooler, 3 heater and TB, and 4 turbo, or in my case turbos. Now until the thermo opens the radiator is excluded from the circuits. So if you just plumb the turbo circuit into the radiator inlet hose then effectively you have shut down that circuit until the thermo opens.
Does this make sense?
1303Steve ·
Hi Lou
From vwkd.com "Originally the turbo water went into the top of the header tank (non fingered) and out of the bottom (fingered). I've simply bypassed and removed the header tank. "
I cant see any other way to get the coolant from the turbo back into the coolant circuit, maybe my cooling circuit is different to earlier models
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:They pass coolant through the throttle body to prevent icing, I've deleted that
wtf? That doesn't even make sense. There is no fuel at the TB to cause icing. Sure I would understand if it was TB injection but on multi point?
I never understood why Jap cars had this, now it makes less sense haha.
Good thing you deleted it then.
vlad01 ·
has anyone changed the layout to use more traditional outlet thermostat and bypass loop setup?
I recall Joel did? not sure?
If changed to outlet style it would simplify the system a lot. This ^ is actually the most complicated system I ever seen. I had no idea suby cooling system was so complex.
Joel ·
That diagram makes it look far more complicated than it really is.
The coolant is run through the throttle body to simply to stop the risk of throttle jamming in snowy climates.
I deleted mine too, there is talk on NASIOC of guys getting power gains by removing them but i reckon it would be miniscule.
I've kept the stock cold side thermostat layout, it works really well when its setup properly, gets to temp very quick (mine is under 5 mins all year round) and very stable temps.
Its a common Jap thing, mine and the old mans Mazdas were like it too.
It can be a problem in very cold climates though, I know Ricola has gone to the hot side remote mount BMW or Land Rover thermostat and I remember Robbo was going to bolt to Subi thermostat housings together to make a remote mount for his Kombi.
vlad01 ·
There would be some gains without heating the TB.
Couple of us guys run manifold insulators on the commys and dynos shows few to 10s Kw gain from cooler intake charge. But you are right, TB is only a small surface area compared to a whole intake so heat soak transfer would be tiny compared to what we deal with.
Anyway I see what you mean that the stock setup with long cooling path seen on a vw would have some issues in cold areas. like where I live haha. I have both of the worst extremes.
frigged temps in winter, extreme heat in summer.
I understand that diagram, but I really mean that is complicated as even if you disregard the engine part of the diagram.
The most complicated setup I saw on a bitsaremissing and I had no idea why there was so many pipes and stuff.
My most complicated water pumpers have have 2 hoses for the rad, 2 for the heater core with tap. One overflow container thats not even part of the pressured cooling system. Thats it!
there is an internal bypass for the thermostat and on the later engines I have sitting in the shed have bypass part of the heater core setup. just a bypassing heater tap is the only difference.
Joel ·
It's a quirky system and more complicated but part of the reason it can maintain such stable temps is it just runs through the heatloop to control the thermostat opening and closing and "sips" whatever cooler coolant it needs coming back from the radiator rather than the constant opening and closeing the thermostats do on the hot side as they dont know whats going into the engine from radiator, only what's coming back out.
vlad01 ·
thast how this system work too. the bypass/heater loop is what controls the thermostat and keeps coolant flowing for even temps when actual cooling is not being required.
ian.mezz ·
lou0060 wrote:hi Steve, some good discussion here. the key is definitely to generate a lower pressure behind the radiator as a few have suggested. Remember whatever air goes in to the front of the radiator has to come out somewhere so you need a path out to get that air out. Also, the route of the cooling fluid is also really important and I am also playing around with that as well as I have the same issue, under low load all is fine but run at high revs with turbos boosting and it all gets hot! And I don't mean for a 100m sprint, I am talking about 5-6 laps at 6000rpm-8000rpm.
I am interested in what people are saying about sending the turbo cooling fluid somewhere other than the stock location. When you say your water goes to the thermostat housing can you clarify that it is going into the housing behind the thermostat and in fron to the pump. If so that water goes back thru the motor. Also with your water pump how many lines in does it have? Mine has 3 not counting the main hose. One is for the oil cooler, one for the heater core and one for the turbo line.
I am in the process of changing ,mine around and will have the turbo line now feeding into the main radiator in hose and I have drilled 6 holes 4mm diameter around the thermostat so I have continous flow. Then I am connecting the heater outlet to the top of the filler tank, (where the turbo line used to go) and then the return from the filer tank will tee off to the thermostat and also to the return heater line. Hope that makes sense.
I have also completely enclosed my radiator front and rear and have 4 x 100mm flex tubes feeding the air coming out of the radiator and venting up to the vents under the rear window. I'll post some pictures on my thread when I have it finished and I will be testing at Lakeside next weekend.
HAve you got the original fluid flow diagram for your engine?
where the two steel heater pipes come out the back of the motor you just get 1 metre or 2 of heater hose and join them together so the water still flows around. no need to change the flow there as its so easy just to join together a couple bucks for heater hose. the extra coiled up hose under car helps cooling also
ian.mezz ·
I will take a pic of my handy work of fitting the header tank pipe to top hose .
It looks different but its just how it works in the Subaru 😊
ian.mezz ·
lou0060 wrote:that's good Steve but I'll tell you what me concern is, maybe I have read it wrong. If you have taken the coolant line from the turbo and routed it to the radiator inlet hose, which is what I have done, what have you done to ensure there is continuos flow in that circuit? The water pump pumps coolant thru essentially 4 circuits; 1 engine and heads, 2 oil cooler, 3 heater and TB, and 4 turbo, or in my case turbos. Now until the thermo opens the radiator is excluded from the circuits. So if you just plumb the turbo circuit into the radiator inlet hose then effectively you have shut down that circuit until the thermo opens.
Does this make sense?
. one top hose from header tank goes to fitting in the top radiator pipe that I welded in and the other hose goes to the turbo , the bottom hose is still fitted to the steel pipe that goes down behind the thermostat
1303Steve ·
Hi
I have my radiator and everything else out at the moment, just trying to work out what I can do without starting all over again. Coolant is so sticky
I've managed to drop the radiator down about 40 mm, I think I have worked out a solution with ducting air better.
Good photos, I can't do what you did Ian, Boof mentioned putting the turbo water back into the system elsewhere, I just know where I can route it.
Steve
ian.mezz ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
I have my radiator and everything else out at the moment, just trying to work out what I can do without starting all over again. Coolant is so sticky
I've managed to drop the radiator down about 40 mm, I think I have worked out a solution with ducting air better.
Good photos, I can't do what you did Ian, Boof mentioned putting the turbo water back into the system elsewhere, I just know where I can route it.
Steve
yes its more for louys race car 🙂
1303Steve ·
Hi
I managed to move my radiator backwards and down a little, the incoming air flow should get a better shot at the radiator now, I also made some panels out of black perspex to scoop the air in and to close off the sides of the radiator.
It seems fine driving on the street, the only way to test it now is to do run at a race track, Wakefield next month.
Steve
Jak Rizzo ·
are your radiators tilting forward Steve?
or is that just the photo
1303Steve ·
Hi Jak
They are straight up & down, I tried to tilt the radiator but there wasnt the room without some major work, Im pretty cconfident that this will work.
Steve
lou0060 ·
looks good Steve. We'll see how it runs at Wakefield. I've made more changes to mine as well and will be having a run at lakeside this Sunday so hopefully these latest mods will do the trick.
1303Steve ·
Good luck on Sunday Lou, I cant wait to have a run.
1303Steve ·
Quick update
Cooling mods seemed to have worked at Wakefield, it never got over 95 all day, I fitted some 30 mm Sway Away rear bars and some new rear Bilsteins, very happy with them both.
Later in the day at Wakefield my intake temps went way up, faulty inter cooler pump, I was also having boost issues, the EBoost was saying it saw a maximum of 22-24 on recall but it was only making 14 psi down the straight.
I need more seat time and need some work on turbo system
matberry ·
Thanks for the update Steve, I bet the ambient was pretty low down at Goulburn. Looks like you improved your lap times by a few seconds so you gotta be happy with that 🙂
1303Steve ·
Hi Matt, I think ambient temperature was a shade under 20. I'm not running any sway bars apart from the stock front one, so I will look into what I can do.
I've changed the inter cooler pump to a Davies Craig (Bosch) one, its rated at less GPA than my Groco CP20 which might not be a bad thing to have the coolant hanging around longer
Jak Rizzo ·
I have a Davies craig one that has been going now since 2004, that's impressive! I even have a spare new one that I scored cheap on Ebay just incase, maybe that's why the original is still going.....
1303Steve ·
Hi
I bought a Davies Craig one to use on a heating system for my sons bug.
I abandoned that idea and the pump sat in my garage for a few years.
When I hooked it up it didin't work, I pulled it apart and found that there was some corrosion on the shaft, very easy to dismantle, I cant see how anything could go wrong with one, but a spare would be good.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Forgot to mention that I washed my car at 5.30 am, changed wheels and then entered the show n shine at the VW Nationals, I picked up 2nd place in Beetles 68 on modified, raced on Saturday, shown on Sunday.
This is the first time I've entered the show since about 1989.
The show is peer judged so it was many peoples opinion not just a few, thanks to those that voted for me.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Just put up a video form the supersprint
1303Steve ·
Hi
Went to WSID (local Sydney 1/4 mile) last Wednesday night to get in some practice before the VW drags at Warwick and before I fit a bigger turbo. I won best reaction time .001 as well and $300.
Best time was 12.432 @110.90 mph, crap 60fts, 40 series tyres are no good for drag racing
I've just ordered a new turbo a GTX3076, some bigger injectors and a Frozen Boost ice reservoir. http://www.frozenboost.com.
Steve
lucky winners
lou0060 ·
good stuff Carter! should I be scared?? are you planning to fit the new turbo, injectors and ice box before Warwick?
1303Steve ·
Hi
Don't be scared Lou, be afraid that I will miss 3rd as usual. Have you fitted a radio to your car yet so that you can listen to the pit broadcast?
Picked up the Ist part of the quest for more kilowatts today, thanks to AFI South, some 1000cc injectors with plenty of head room for E85, they also supplied some adaptors for Denso to GM plugs so I don't have to cut any wires.
Im booked for a tune the Monday before Warwick so turbo and injectors will be fitted by then, not sure about ice box.
Steve
Camo ·
1303Steve wrote:Im booked for a tune the Monday before Warwick
Just because he made some things for this car, doesn't mean you need to take a leaf out of Westies book 😂😂😂
On second thoughts, you have given yourself a few extra days compared to Brad 😂😂😂
Are your fuel lines already E85 suitable, did you plan ahead.
Kev
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Don't be scared Lou, be afraid that I will miss 3rd as usual. Have you fitted a radio to your car yet so that you can listen to the pit broadcast?
Picked up the Ist part of the quest for more kilowatts today, thanks to AFI South, some 1000cc injectors with plenty of head room for E85, they also supplied some adaptors for Denso to GM plugs so I don't have to cut any wires.
Im booked for a tune the Monday before Warwick so turbo and injectors will be fitted by then, not sure about ice box.
Steve
Bosch 1000cc with USCAR connectors yeah?
1303Steve ·
Hi
There is only a few metres of rubber line in the car, so if not E85 safe its no a big deal.
Just got got back from Westys, he's so busy he doesn't have time to prepare his car for Warwick, but as always he took time to hash out my plans for more power.
Yep Bosch 1000s, they turned them down to fit into a stock rail.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Some more parts turned up today from Frozen Boost.
Ice water reservoir and water to air intercooler pump, this pump is designed by Bosch and Ford specifically for water/air applications and is used in many of the supercharged Mustang Cobras and supercharged Mercedes.
Turbo arrives today.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Turbo is here now, just doing a bit of concreting in the backyard and then I'm into it.
Steve
PAZZAN ·
More power more weight, hmmm
1303Steve ·
more boost ummm
1303Steve ·
Hi
Turbo is on, just need to fit the injectors and some phenolic spacers to the inlet manifold and fit the ice box.
There is a massive size difference between the turbos.
I thought my motor used a VF30, its actually a VF35
Steve
lou0060 ·
Holy f****k Batman!
you'll need more boost to make up for the extra weight Stevie.....
Be very interesting to see how this goes with such a big turbo. Did you do any research on this before hand, knowing you well I am guessing you did so looking forward to catching up at Warwick.
You'll need a bigger fuel tank too as E85 usage is about 20% higher than normal fuel and your burn rate will now be higher as well.
Looks like the fat girl just got obese!!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Jak Rizzo ·
does it physically fit where the old one goes? is it a direct bolt on?
In the photos it looks like the exhaust flange is way bigger but its the same size as the stock turbo.
Its not much heavier than the stock turbo, maybe a few kilos.
I'm not going E85 just yet, but when I do it will be with a flex sensor so I can run on 98 most of the time but when I with fill with E85 and the ECU will take care of it.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I think I had a boost leak, I wonder how it would have gone at WSID without a split in the hose.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
It was a bit of challenge to fit a 3 inch inlet under the Subaru inlet manifold. Needed a bit of hammer work.
Steve
Jak Rizzo ·
where are you going to get the cold air from?
1303Steve ·
Thats the next hurdle, looking at a few different ideas
Jak Rizzo ·
put the motor in the front......
vlad01 ·
air box with either good pod inside or panel filter fixed on the engine so it seals up against the the deck lid louvers. Run a soft thick foam rubber seal around the edge.
hellbugged ·
Jak Rizzo wrote:put the motor in the front......
😂
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm running a pod filter which is not legal, If I boxed it in and put it up against he engine bay vents I'm not sure if that would be legal.
What I would like to do is do an intake in mudguard like Jak did on his bug, I just need to figure out a decent filter box that will fit in the engine bay.
Steve
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
I'm running a pod filter which is not legal, If I boxed it in and put it up against he engine bay vents I'm not sure if that would be legal.
What I would like to do is do an intake in mudguard like Jak did on his bug, I just need to figure out a decent filter box that will fit in the engine bay.
Steve
why is a pod illegal? Never heard such thing.
Jak Rizzo ·
unenclosed pod filters have always been illegal in NSW. Don't know why.
Although I don't know how it's any different to twin carbies sitting in your engine bay.
Either way, it's not good for your motor / intake temps anyway
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm thinking about getting one of these barrel air filters from Summit Racing.
Gotta love computers, I sent Leigh Harris the cal file from my ECU, he altered it to suit the new injectors, he emailed it back to me, I loaded it into the ECU and its started and idled like it always does
Steve
vlad01 ·
Jak Rizzo wrote:unenclosed pod filters have always been illegal in NSW. Don't know why.
Although I don't know how it's any different to twin carbies sitting in your engine bay.
Either way, it's not good for your motor / intake temps anyway
well, depends on the engine bay heat. intake might only be 10-15 above ambient in a water cooled engine bay when its moving.
I would think carbys with filter be more dangerous as it can back fire with flames and there is liquid fuel. There is none of that with EFI.
1303Steve ·
Hi
I just got back from a quick test drive, even on gate pressure of 8 psi it's fast, comes on pretty early as well, tune on Monday.
Thanks to Brad (Westy) for turning my dreams into solid metal once again.
He shortened the ice box for me as it was a bit too large to fit where I needed it to fit and he also fitted a coil of aluminium fuel line inside it so now I have fuel cooling on the return line.
Steve
Craig Torrens ·
👍
vlad01 ·
arhhh spaghetti !
there are enough hose clamps in that one shot for 3 of my cars 😂
1303Steve ·
Hi
Just got back from the tuner, shit day for tuning a car, 31 c. Made 220 kilowatts with some more to come after a few cheaper mods.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I cant speak highly enough of how good the tuner Dvs Jez is at his job, 1st he did a smoke test on the system which showed up a few leaks and then preceded to do a few power runs, it became obvious to him that my exhaust is limiting things, so a few more mods should see even more power.
Steve
Bizarre ·
WOW!!! 😵💫
Camo ·
It certainly comes on a lot stronger at the 145 kmph mark with the new turbo, you must have an even bigger smile on your face now than before 😀
Kev 👍
1303Steve ·
Hi
I had great time at Warwick, getting a handle on launching the car. A quick video that my son put together
Steve
Bizarre ·
Great video
I assume you put the new bars in? really not bogging down at all??
Looks like you got you take off pretty good
Love it 👍
1303Steve ·
Thanks Baz, Im really happy with the new bars, just enough squat. I was running 33 psi in the rear tyres so there is lots more traction still to come if I need it
1303Steve ·
Hi
Went to see Westy today and he made new less restrictive exhaust for my Beetle, just need to finish of my air box now and then back for another tune and more kilowatts.
Steve
boof2332 ·
That's sick Steve..
How does it drive compared to your quick spooling little vf35..which is a non ball bearing vf34. Any lag?
With regards to the intake.. I cut my up pipe and turned it about 45 degrees so the intake runs under the front of the manifold and my filter sits just in front of my starter motor.. lots of cool air hits it there and the engine bay looks really clean.
Nice figures on the dyno!!!
Matt
vlad01 ·
could also use a foam filter from UNI filter. Couple of us guys have found them not only filter much better and finer dust but also breath better compared to top brand cotton cloth pod filters, worth a few Kw in NA applications, boost should be a fair bit more as boost engines are sensitive to intake restrictions. Aussie made too. 👍
boof2332 ·
I used to have a uni filter ram pod.. was awesome but was really big and hard to position.. just use a KandN pod now.
Matt
vlad01 ·
yeah i just got their custom range to match up a K&N style pod. 140 D x 140 L, can also specify a custom size if needed.
And the fact I can go a whopping big sized one later for my other car that doesn't have the same space restriction is a big plus.
At least 140 D X 200 L 👍 may even go 180 x 200 🤪
1303Steve ·
Hi
Matt its a little less torquey down low but just over 4 its hits like a hammer, but now with the new exhaust it seems to come on earlier again, hopefully a touch up tune next week.
The VF 30 is a plain bearing VF 34, but the VF 35 is similar to the VF 30.
I going to use a Mondeo (3/95 - 04) air box with the lid removed, it will sit at the engine lid vents and suck air through there, its 397 x 150, photos soon, I cant believe how it all just fell into place.
Steve
On a shit note my sons Skyline was totalled last night. Some guy jumped in his car, hit 3 cars in his street, then hit my sons Skyline then drove anther 200 metres and hit another car and then crashed into someone's front yard, all in very quiet Lugarno
vlad01 ·
with a paper panel filter or hi flow replacement?
I found the stock panel paper ones just choke the shit out of the engine.
1303Steve ·
Hi
I will test either way with the filter.
Steve
Bizarre ·
did they catch the guy ?
insured?
1303Steve ·
Hi
They caught the guy, his two front wheels were ripped of so he didnt get far.
Just had my entry confirmed for the Snowy Mountains 1000 in November, its a 1000 metre sprint/drag race on Cooma airport.
Cant wait.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I just made new air filter box using the base from a HC Mondeo air cleaner, I will have to see how it goes, road trip tomorrow to Shepparton to have a look at the Skyline Nationals.
Thanks again to Westy for his help with the aluminium doughnut he welded up for me.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Just got back from a road trip to Shepperton in the bug. I'm really happy with how the car performs now with the new turbo. It comes on at 4200 like you just got hit up the bum by a train.
So cruising at 120kph its off boost at about 3,000 rpm so its very quiet, it picks very nicely in 5th at that speed with a few psi of boost, if I stick it back to 3rd at that speed its nuts.
After stops for fuel etc you could really see how the new intake setup dropped temps back down again after some heat soak from the stop and something that I haven't seen before is the intake temps varying depending on load, so if I boot it intake temps would rise and fall back down again when cruising.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Another shit day for a tune, very hot.
I've reached the limit of the current set-up now which is what I wanted to do, next cams & E85.
Steve
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Just got back from a road trip to Shepperton in the bug. I'm really happy with how the car performs now with the new turbo. It comes on at 4200 like you just got hit up the bum by a train.
So cruising at 120kph its off boost at about 3,000 rpm so its very quiet, it picks very nicely in 5th at that speed with a few psi of boost, if I stick it back to 3rd at that speed its nuts.
After stops for fuel etc you could really see how the new intake setup dropped temps back down again after some heat soak from the stop and something that I haven't seen before is the intake temps varying depending on load, so if I boot it intake temps would rise and fall back down again when cruising.
Steve
boost does this, you can reduce it with yet bigger intercooler. What temps do you see at full load?
In NA application its goes the other way, temps drop with more load as more air volume consumed allowing less time for the manifold to heat the air.
Another trick you could try is phenolic intake insulator spacers to stop intake heat soak.
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm running a massive PWR intercooler already, my intake temps are usually 10-15 above ambient.
I'm not complaining about the heat soak, maybe I didn't make myself clear, previously the intake temps would take forever to drop down after stopping the car and I wouldn't get the variation I do now that is dependent on load, it just shows that the new intake is able to take heat out quickly when on the move.
I already have phenolic spacers under the inlet manifold.
Car felt great at 226 kph, the wing, it felt the same, video
Steve
vlad01 ·
not bad at all!, seems to have a bit of wheel hop though from what I can see.
Bizarre ·
geez - you put some big bucks to shame
Well done
1303Steve ·
Hi
Bit of wheel hop, no tyre warming or burnouts allowed because it could damage the landing strip
vlad01 ·
you could get one drive shaft special make to be a heap thinker, like 50% thicker and that should stop wheel hop.
Thats all anti wheel hop kits for other high powered RWD cars are, one standard thickness and one about 50% thicker. It inhibits drivtrain harmonics that creates wheel hop by having different resonance on each axle.
Subarugears ·
Drivetrain harmonics create wheel hop???!!!!
HappyDaze ·
More likely to be shock absorbers....or engine mounts.
57oval ·
😂😂😂😂
Flintstones ·
Great result Steve.
I think you'll need to upgrade your HUD as it maxes out in the 170ish km/h range :smile grin:
Cheers
D
1303Steve ·
Hi
The motor and trans are well mounted now, maybe I should try some harder mounts, I was leaving the line close to limiter.
Its Polaris HUD I should complain to them, on the first run I was a bit disappointed thinking that I hadn't cracked the 200 mark
yes, you should know of all people 🙅 its simple physics, everything in the world has resonance and harmonics of different orders, vibrations, juddering, hopping... no different.
have you not seen how well anti hop axle work? your missing out man.
here is one example.
vlad01 ·
HappyDaze wrote:More likely to be shock absorbers....or engine mounts.
yes, they tend to exacerbate the natural bounce a lot if they aren't in good order.
In my experience you can only reduce amplitude/change frequency them with mounting everything solid, to the point of not really noticing much but still exists regardless.
I found stiffer shocker increase the frequency of the hop but reduced amplitude which is good.
yes, you should know of all people 🙅 its simple physics, everything in the world has resonance and harmonics of different orders, vibrations, juddering, hopping... no different.
have you not seen how well anti hop axle work? your missing out man.
here is one example.
Yeah, I of all people should know. Interestingly, my 190kw car does not suffer from axle hop and it has the same thickness axles on the left as on the right.
Perhaps you could quote your source? I can only find articles discussing shock absorbers, mounts, tyre sidewalls etc. Does the different axle thing also work on solid rear axles, like VK Commodores?
1303Steve ·
Hi
A more professional video of the Snowy 1000
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Another part of my quest for more power came today, a Zeitronix E85 flex fuel sensor, cams and another tune soon
Steve
Invincabug ·
I saw this Bugaru on the road late last year (Forest Road Peakhurst) and was very impressed. Congratulations on a job well done Steve and how great to come across a group of people so willing to share info' such as yourself, Jak etc.
1303Steve ·
Thanks for that, I live near Peakhurst
Birdman ·
I think the IRS commodore guys use asymmetrical axles to stop tramp. As in the axles are NOT round.
Subarugears ·
I love some of the stuff you read on forums. Axles are not round, tramp is caused by harmonics. Wow.
Must tell those top fuel guys some of these tricks so they can reliably get 8000hp to the ground. Damn tyre shake!
Why don]t they just read the forums?
Steve, how]s the E85 flexfuel install and tune going?
1303Steve ·
Hi Todd
I'm still waiting for the cams from Tomei, I have the flex fuel stuff already, fitting up the sensor and gauge soon.
I have to wait for the cams as I want to have both fitted before tuning.
They way things will work out time wise I might not get a chance to fit them until late March, I've entered the VW drags in Sydney and Power Cruise, there's a club cruise in between so not enough time to have the car off the road.
I'm keen to see what the motor will produce on cams and 98 plus what it will do E85
Steve
Camo ·
1303Steve wrote:I'm keen to see what the motor will produce on cams and 98 plus what it will do E85
Steve
That's you, me and a lot of other people that are keen to also see.
Glad to see you are not growing up, only older 😂😂😂
Kev
vlad01 ·
Birdman wrote:I think the IRS commodore guys use asymmetrical axles to stop tramp. As in the axles are NOT round.
Actually they are asymmetric as is one side is much thicker.
There are kits available for VE commodore onward which are same as chev CTS-V shafts as they were developed for them 1st in the states as it is an incurable harmonic in that model.
The use of asymmetric shafts is now common place in OEM AWD and RWD ( mostly RWD) designs where suspension and mounting does not solve the oscillation that is wheel hop.
If it can't be fixed with mounts and suspension bushes, asymmetric shafts are always a great option. certainly cheaper than blowing transmissions up and cracking metal in places.
psimitar ·
vlad01 wrote:
Birdman wrote:I think the IRS commodore guys use asymmetrical axles to stop tramp. As in the axles are NOT round.
Actually they are asymmetric as is one side is much thicker.
There are kits available for VE commodore onward which are same as chev CTS-V shafts as they were developed for them 1st in the states as it is an incurable harmonic in that model.
The use of asymmetric shafts is now common place in OEM AWD and RWD ( mostly RWD) designs where suspension and mounting does not solve the oscillation that is wheel hop.
If it can't be fixed with mounts and suspension bushes, asymmetric shafts are always a great option. certainly cheaper than blowing transmissions up and cracking metal in places.
Yup, resonant frequencies and sympathetic harmonics are very destructive in all walks of engineering. Just ask the poor bugger who designed the millenium walkway in London. Poor sod lost his career over that one.
1303Steve ·
Camo wrote:Glad to see you are not growing up, only older 😂😂😂
Kev
when I grow up I wanna kid,
we just got a fill in drift car, KE 71 Corolla spirit, Im going to give this drifting caper ago in weeks time, weve already locked the diff, cut the coils, fitted some of Daves cool wheel colection to it and fitted a Webber
Subarugears ·
psimitar wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Birdman wrote:I think the IRS commodore guys use asymmetrical axles to stop tramp. As in the axles are NOT round.
Actually they are asymmetric as is one side is much thicker.
There are kits available for VE commodore onward which are same as chev CTS-V shafts as they were developed for them 1st in the states as it is an incurable harmonic in that model.
The use of asymmetric shafts is now common place in OEM AWD and RWD ( mostly RWD) designs where suspension and mounting does not solve the oscillation that is wheel hop.
If it can't be fixed with mounts and suspension bushes, asymmetric shafts are always a great option. certainly cheaper than blowing transmissions up and cracking metal in places.
Yup, resonant frequencies and sympathetic harmonics are very destructive in all walks of engineering. Just ask the poor bugger who designed the millenium walkway in London. Poor sod lost his career over that one.
Except wheel hop is actually caused by the loading and unloading of the tyre and its contact patch with the road and has nothing to do with harmonics.
HappyDaze ·
Crikey, the things you learn on here....I always thought wheel hop was due to the masonic affluence on the atlasphere !
1303Steve ·
Hi
I cant see how harmonics can affect wheel hop at low speeds, I've seen front wheel dive cars with different sized axles but these are usually in east west configurations and I believe that they are designed to reduce torque steer.
Steve
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:
Camo wrote:Glad to see you are not growing up, only older 😂😂😂
Kev
when I grow up I wanna kid,
we just got a fill in drift car, KE 71 Corolla spirit, Im going to give this drifting caper ago in weeks time, weve already locked the diff, cut the coils, fitted some of Daves cool wheel colection to it and fitted a Webber
you'll like this KE70 then. Did have an LS1 in it but getting something a lot better now. 😉
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi
I cant see how harmonics can affect wheel hop at low speeds, I've seen front wheel dive cars with different sized axles but these are usually in east west configurations and I believe that they are designed to reduce torque steer.
Steve
harmonic is just a name for resonance with with multiples of and including primary resonance frequency. Everything that oscillates can be mathematically described that way including from wheel hop, air ending engine, trees swaying in the wind to light coming from a lamp.
Its just fundamental physics. Everything has a wave function.
even the thread on the tyres resonance as certain frequencies, hence why they squeal when traction breaks.
psimitar ·
Subarugears wrote:
psimitar wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Birdman wrote:I think the IRS commodore guys use asymmetrical axles to stop tramp. As in the axles are NOT round.
Actually they are asymmetric as is one side is much thicker.
There are kits available for VE commodore onward which are same as chev CTS-V shafts as they were developed for them 1st in the states as it is an incurable harmonic in that model.
The use of asymmetric shafts is now common place in OEM AWD and RWD ( mostly RWD) designs where suspension and mounting does not solve the oscillation that is wheel hop.
If it can't be fixed with mounts and suspension bushes, asymmetric shafts are always a great option. certainly cheaper than blowing transmissions up and cracking metal in places.
Yup, resonant frequencies and sympathetic harmonics are very destructive in all walks of engineering. Just ask the poor bugger who designed the millenium walkway in London. Poor sod lost his career over that one.
Except wheel hop is actually caused by the loading and unloading of the tyre and its contact patch with the road and has nothing to do with harmonics.
True yes but if such kits have been found to work and aren't just a trendy addition to your vehicle then there surely is merit to the reasoning of them.
I'm sure Vlad is just trying to help by adding his knowledge and experience for the OP to read and digest.
Subarugears ·
Of course. But a little deeper research would be good, rather than incorrect information. Wheel hop occurs when both tyres lose traction and regain traction at the same time because of the suspension setup allowing it, rather than ensuring slightly different twisting moments on the left tyre to the right tyre. This is corrected on those Cadillacs and Commodores by using different axles to ensure the wind up and therefore ability of the drivetrain to get wheelspin on each tyre is different from left to right. That way one tyre is in wheelspin whilst the other tyre has traction and wheel hop is eliminated. That's not harmonics.
vlad01 ·
Subarugears wrote:Of course. But a little deeper research would be good, rather than incorrect information. Wheel hop occurs when both tyres lose traction and regain traction at the same time because of the suspension setup allowing it, rather than ensuring slightly different twisting moments on the left tyre to the right tyre. This is corrected on those Cadillacs and Commodores by using different axles to ensure the wind up and therefore ability of the drivetrain to get wheelspin on each tyre is different from left to right. That way one tyre is in wheelspin whilst the other tyre has traction and wheel hop is eliminated. That's not harmonics.
Yes it is. its both sides are oscillating as the same Hz they interfere constructively. Therefore the are in harmony or maybe a better term "in phase" . Different size on one side like you said changes the resonant frequency and the harmonic between both sides collapse or more accurately reduced until it doesn't effect, "out of phase" 2 waves interfering destructively. Thats just a simple breakdown but of course in reality there are many different frequencies involved throughout the whole drive train that all interfere with each other.
Im talking in mathematical terms. its universal so its stands no matter what, don't confuse it with something else what ever that might be.
if you talk about shockers to a shocker manufacture R&D, be prepared to talk about the exact same subject of frequencies and rather complex maths when taking the rest of the suspension and vehicle. its a lot different to talking about it with your mechanic lol
Subarugears ·
lol.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Most street Beetles don't have wheel hop issues, I need to do some more work to combat it.
I've really beefed the chassis forks up and Im running a home made 3 bar Kafer Cup brace. The forks have 25x50 tube welded around them and the two diagonal braces should keep the back end solid, no wonder it weighs so much
Steve
HappyDaze ·
vlad01 wrote:
Subarugears wrote:Of course. But a little deeper research would be good, rather than incorrect information. Wheel hop occurs when both tyres lose traction and regain traction at the same time because of the suspension setup allowing it, rather than ensuring slightly different twisting moments on the left tyre to the right tyre. This is corrected on those Cadillacs and Commodores by using different axles to ensure the wind up and therefore ability of the drivetrain to get wheelspin on each tyre is different from left to right. That way one tyre is in wheelspin whilst the other tyre has traction and wheel hop is eliminated. That's not harmonics.
Yes it is. its both sides are oscillating as the same Hz they interfere constructively. Therefore the are in harmony or maybe a better term "in phase" . Different size on one side like you said changes the resonant frequency and the harmonic between both sides collapse or more accurately reduced until it doesn't effect, "out of phase" 2 waves interfering destructively. Thats just a simple breakdown but of course in reality there are many different frequencies involved throughout the whole drive train that all interfere with each other.
Im talking in mathematical terms. its universal so its stands no matter what, don't confuse it with something else what ever that might be.
if you talk about shockers to a shocker manufacture R&D, be prepared to talk about the exact same subject of frequencies and rather complex maths when taking the rest of the suspension and vehicle. its a lot different to talking about it with your mechanic lol
:
Geez, I'm glad I left school when I was 15....otherwise all that stuff would have would have influenced what I have done over the years to correct 'wheel-tramp'.
Like Billy Joel, "The things I didn' know at first, I learned by doing twice"....or three, or more times. 👍
hellbugged ·
Hi Steve
Is it solid or soft mounted and any support mounts off the engine itself? Ie. rear of the bellhousing.
Vote 1 here for a new thread to argue merits of axle sizing.
1303Steve ·
Hi Damo
I'm using the stock Subaru mounts under the motor, an over the top Berg style mid mount, you can see the Kombi mounts in the photo and the stock Porsche mount at the front of the transmission.
Steve
vote 2
1303Steve ·
Hi
1st part of the quest for more kiloWatts was fitted today, but not without dramas. I've mounted the Zeitronix Ethanol Content Analyser (ECA) gauge to blind spot in the dash, right behind the steering wheel, I made a bracket to bolt it to the fascia that the tacho/speedo sits in, only problem was that when I connected the tacho back up again ECA wouldn't work, after much head scratching I finally worked out that the tacho earth was feeding into the ECA housing, some ECAs I've seen are just mounted in the glove box, but I had a spare space so I thought I would use it.
Interesting the BP 98 I normally use has 2% ethanol content. I can also see fuel temperature by pushing a moment switch on the ECA mounting bracket, but what you can use this reading for is a mystery. The ECA has two outputs that are sent in a 0-5 volt signal to my ECU so that it can alter fuel and ignition maps to suit the ethanol content of my fuel
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Tomei pon cams arrived today, thanks to jessestreeter.com
So now that I have everything I started looking deeper into hooking up the ECU to see the flex fuel sensor.
The plug n play Autronic SM4 is showing its age and its not easily configurable to run a flex fuel sensor, I need to fit missing pins into the stock ECU plugs.
So Haltech do a plug n play but it needs an upgrades MAP sensor as the one fitted only goes to 22 psi, its $1975 + $129 for a 30 psi MAP sensor.
Adaptronic do a e1280s stand alone unit for $1990 that has some better features than both the Haltech and Autronic but it needs to be wired in.
all this go faster stuff is making me think about a brake upgrade.
I have 996 rears on the front with 930 rotors which work really well.
I saw some Boxster fronts on eBay and got them at really good price, just sourcing some rotors now.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I've been rethinking the water line layout for my ice box & intercooler. I only use the ice box for drag racing and tuning on the dyno. I was sending the ice water to the intercooler radiator at the front of the car after it had been through the intercooler which was was picking up more heat. With this new arrangement I can recirculate the chilled water in a closed loop which I think should make it last longer
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I've been giving this a lot of thought. Before I fitted the ice box I was running reservoir - pump - radiator - intercooler (at the throttle body end) - reservoir. After I fitted the ice box I ran reservoir - pump - intercooler (at the throttle body end) - radiator - reservoir. With E85 intake temps will be less critical
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
At the suggestion of Ricola I fitted another tap in the intercooler plumbing to close of the H, so when not in ice cooling mode all of the water goes to the front cooler.
Bought some more parts for my brake upgrade, some 944 hubs, thanks to Wayne Penrose for these and I bought some DBA front rotors from Tyler at 999 Automotive.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
I had a great 2 days at Powercruise, last Sunday I moved my car out of the garage getting ready to go, I parked it up the hill on my driveway and then ran inside to do something before I left.
I mustn't have pulled the handbrake on hard enough, my Beetle rolled down the hill and hit my sons Beetle and then crashed into a rock at our front door, it could have been worse if it had hit a veranda post or could have even gone through the front door
camshaft covers are cracked, damaged exhaust camshaft sprocket, damaged thermostat housing and hose, damaged special Grimmspeed engine exhaust cross pipe, the body needs both rear mudguards, rear apron, rear bumper and scratched wheel repaired
My sons Beetle needs a mudguard and both front and rear bumpers
Steve
1303Steve ·
So motor is out I might as well get the cams fitted now
matberry ·
That sux Steve.
adlbeetle66 ·
😢😢 Hope you get it all sorted Steve.
1303Steve ·
Thanks guys, cars at the panel beater, just waiting for the go ahead from the insurance company, motor is being repaired and the Tomei cams fitted at the same time.
Just picked up the new front brakes from LMS, exceptional work as usual.
vlad01 ·
what are you using for the rear brakes?
1303Steve ·
rears are 944 rotors with the same model Boxster rear callipers as I now have for the front
vlad01 ·
cool, are they relatively a bolt in solution? any track changes by going for such a setup?
Flintstones ·
944 steel trailing arms are identical to Vw trailing arms (exception of one hole for camber adjustment from memory), and the 944 brakes from the steel arms are a bolt on without mods.
You just need to get a part for the handbrake to work.
Head across the germanlook.net and search there-its been well documented about 15 years ago-ish.
Cheers
D
vlad01 ·
cool I'll have a squiz there. Thanks.
vlad01 ·
website is broken lol. oh well.
1303Steve ·
Hi
The steel 944 arms are just about identical to late Beetle arms as Dino said, they will give about 25 mm per side track increase, they worked perfectly on my sons bug with 17x7s with 55ET and fitted under stock 1303 guards
Im using alloy 944 arms on my car, they give about 46 mm per side track increase, my arms are from a 1986 944, later model alloy arms give more track increase. I recently tried some 15x7 Cookie cutters on the rear of my bug and almost stuck out too far even running Aeros
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Got my Beetle back from the panel beaters, so I'm putting it all back together again now, fitted up the Boxster front brakes last night, thanks to bleeding helper Dave I gave the callipers a nice coat of paint and fitted some eBay decals.
Its pretty cool how the 944 grease cap has provision for the Beetle speedo cable drive, I will put a dab of silicone on it to stop water entry
Steve
HappyDaze ·
Front brakes look great, Steve.👍How are the rears ?...you know, hand-brake-wise.🙂 Sorry mate, the Devil made me say that ! 👍
1303Steve ·
Hi Greg
I knew it was coming, new resolution, leave cars in gear
In my line of work I've nearly been run over many times by people leaving cars in gear despite me reminding them to make sure its in neutral before starting the engine, they sometimes get out of the car taking their foot of the clutch with car running but still in gear
Steve
vlad01 ·
1303Steve wrote:Hi Greg
I knew it was coming, new resolution, leave cars in gear
In my line of work I've nearly been run over many times by people leaving cars in gear despite me reminding them to make sure its in neutral before starting the engine, they sometimes get out of the car taking their foot of the clutch with car running but still in gear
Steve
that would be scary.
someone moved my car for something ages ago and I started it in gear, as I never leave mine in gear so i didn't thing about checking.
#%%#%# was a few swear word when I got fright of my life. Took off like a rocket as soon as the key turned, never hit the brake and clutch so fast before lol. Now I don't let anyone drive my car and I always check the shifter before I start.
Flintstones ·
vlad01 wrote:
1303Steve wrote:Hi Greg
I knew it was coming, new resolution, leave cars in gear
In my line of work I've nearly been run over many times by people leaving cars in gear despite me reminding them to make sure its in neutral before starting the engine, they sometimes get out of the car taking their foot of the clutch with car running but still in gear
Steve
that would be scary.
someone moved my car for something ages ago and I started it in gear, as I never leave mine in gear so i didn't thing about checking.
#%%#%# was a few swear word when I got fright of my life. Took off like a rocket as soon as the key turned, never hit the brake and clutch so fast before lol. Now I don't let anyone drive my car and I always check the shifter before I start.
Vlad, you remind me of when I had my first car and it needed a pink slip for rego.
It was an auto and I wasn't aware at the time but you that could start it in gear!
The mechanic asked me to put the car into reverse (car was not running) to check the reverse lights were working.
He then came around to my car door to check mileage and asked a fews other questions etc, then asked me to move the car.
Forgetting that it was still in reverse I started the car, and almost ran him down!!
Never have I had to jump on the brakes so fast.
Suffice to say, the pink slip wasn't forthcoming that day....🙅
adlbeetle66 ·
😂
1303Steve ·
Hi
Cars fixed, motor is fixed, just wired in what I could of the Adaptronic 1280 ecu and dropped the car at DVS tuning to finish the wiring and a for a flex fuel E85 tune. Cant wait to see what it makes, 235 kW last time on 98 & 22psi, so with cams and E85 I might be looking at around 300 kW at the wheels.
I took 60 litres of E85 up for the tune, it smells good enough to drink
Steve
Camo ·
1303Steve wrote:I took 60 litres of E85 up for the tune, it smells good enough to drink
Steve
Steve, I think the fumes must be getting to you, if you think like that and want to drink it 😂😂😂
Does that place know how to tune an aircooled engine (mine) as I'm told that you need to set them up richer than water cooled cars. If this is true.
Looking forward to a passengers seat ride (again) in your car when you have it back 👍
Kev
1303Steve ·
Hi Kev
He will tune anything, hes very careful when tuning, hes also very busy so it can be hard to get in, he's booked out well into June.
No worries passenger ride soon.
Can you do flex fuel or dual maps on your ECU? Air cooled turbos love E85
vlad01 ·
Camo wrote:
1303Steve wrote:I took 60 litres of E85 up for the tune, it smells good enough to drink
Steve
Steve, I think the fumes must be getting to you, if you think like that and want to drink it 😂😂😂
Does that place know how to tune an aircooled engine (mine) as I'm told that you need to set them up richer than water cooled cars. If this is true.
Looking forward to a passengers seat ride (again) in your car when you have it back 👍
Kev
yeah a tad richer in certain areas, under load mostly to unsure sufficient charge cooling and detonation protection.
I envy you Steve for being able to get E85.
I have not even seen a single station within 100km radius from my place that I know of that sells E85, otherwise I'd bee running everything on it. it bloody good fuel, puts petroleum based fuels to shame.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Quick update, car made 245 kW on 21 psi on E85, ran out of spark, more details soon. On 98 it made 229 on 22 psi
Steve
silver ·
I'd use E85
1303Steve ·
Will do and luckily there are few United servos local to me, Bass Hill and Yagoona
Camo ·
Good to hear Steve, you are back on track with the tuning and cam timing 👍
Some good bloody number also, that must make you 😁
Kev
1303Steve ·
Thanks, the tuner is doing the cold start this morning, good day for it, pick it up after lunch and then hopefully get it back on the road for a pie tonight, it has no rear guards or bumper on it now
lou0060 ·
hey Steve, is it breaking down at high revs or something? An extra 16kW for E85 is a bit low I think. Especially with the new cams? how did it go this morning??
1303Steve ·
Hi Lou
I lost 20 kw with the new cams, all the marks lined up but after degreeing the cams I found that they were 8 degrees advanced, fixed that then it wouldnt take anymore than 21 psi without breaking down, Ive given up for a while and Im just going to drive it for a while how it is, then fit some better coils, most likely LS2.
Steve
lou0060 ·
when you say breaking down do you mean it was pinging and the knock sensor was pulling it back? 21psi is lots of boost which equates to higher compression ratio. Maybe you need a better fuel??
were you getting any fault codes?
1303Steve ·
Wasnt pinging just breaking down, new ECU Adaptronic 1280 so no fault codes, it was pinging very badly on 98 anything over 21, I was planning to run 24-25 psi. It lost midrange with these cams and adjusting the variable inlet cams made it run worse, it picked up alot of midrange with E85
1303Steve ·
OK Ive found a small issue in the ignition circuit, my ignition system uses coil on plug, I found a .8 ohm resistance in the earth circuit on one coil, if its not raining tomorrow I will give it a run
1303Steve ·
Green is 98, red is E85
1303Steve ·
I had to to remove my crank pulley to check cam timing etc, made this tool to hold the crank pulley when undoing or tightening and I bought this cam lock tool for left side (or right side on a Beetle) of the motor, because when the timing belt is removed these cam wheels violently spin which can cause the valves to hit each other
1303Steve ·
I like to have bright brake lights so I used a left over Beetle bulb holder, cut it down and bolted it to my tail light housing
1303Steve ·
I took a photo with the brake lights on, pretty bright
1303Steve ·
Hi
My coil on plugs ignition system was letting me down. Thanks to AFI in Peakhurst I bought some LS2 truck coils along with connectors for a good price, when I get these hooked up I will go back to the dyno for some more boost.
Steve
hulbyw ·
This is an awesome build Steve. Well done. Just wondering how well the small mirrors closer to the door than stock work in practice? I am looking at making some VW Concept 1 mirrors for my Beetle but don't want to go to all the work if the rear view is compromised too much.
Cheers............Wayne
1303Steve ·
Cant see much out of them, just look over my shoulder a lot, but they look good
1303Steve ·
Hi
Just had my exhaust coated at Hi Octane coatings in Rydalmere, they did a great job. So hopefully more power for the Snowy Mountains 1000.
I also found that my infernal, sorry internal wastegate was open which now explains the funny noise the motor was making, not to mention that power had dropped off, sounded like squeaking cam belt bearing, I've been pulling parts off the car for weeks trying to track down the noise.
Also took the opportunity to fit a better up pipe. I also put an extra spring in my wastegate, its now running 19 psi gate pressure.
I bought some Cookie cutter from a seller on here, had them polished and painted, fitting some 205/50 x15 Mickey Thompson ET street to them next week.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Just got my new tyres fitted, 205/50x15 Mickey Thompsons and 195/55x15 Goodyears.
For the drags and the Snowy 1000 I was running 245/40x18 Mickeys.
The 18s had a diameter of 651mm, the 15s have a diameter of 588mm so these should help with acceleration.
1st gear @ 8000rpm will now do 73 instead of 82 kph
2nd gear @ 8000rpm will now do 125 instead of 139 kph
3rd gear @ 8000rpm will now do 182 instead of 197 kph
4th gear @ 8000rpm will now do 239 instead of 258 kph
5th gear @ 8000rpm will now do 299 instead of 323 kph
Steve
kombi_kid ·
those wheels come up a treat steve!
lou0060 ·
this will make for interesting dial in times for Warwick Steve. I bet they don't look as nice on the car tho, but sacrifice some looks for go.
It should launch hard now i reckon....
lou0060 ·
did you check they fit with those big brakes???? When I checked my new 944 arms and discs with the twin pot calipers they rubbed that why I got the 16" wheels??
Flintstones ·
lou0060 wrote:did you check they fit with those big brakes????
That's the first thing I thought of as soon as I saw they were 15's....
Good luck with the Snowy's Steve.
Cheers
D
1303Steve ·
Hi
I did a bit of cheating, I had my calliper adaptor brackets milled down 2 mm so that the calliper sits closer to the rotor centre, it always needed to move closer but I never had a reason before to do it.
I need to use an 8mm slip in spacer, they are only 6 inch wide and with my alloy arms they just fit inside the rear guards. Front will use 19 mm bolt on spacers.
7s on the rear would have made for worse clearance, I tried Leighs 7inch Cookies and they were worse that the 6 inch one.
Funny thing is my 15 inch alloy 944 space saver spare clears the brakes fine.
Lou shoot us reminder before Warwick so that we dont forget your wheels.
Steve
1303Steve ·
Hi
Pre Warwick dyno today, made 253 kw on 20 psi, we were ready to go for more and the MAP sensor shit itself, so train home from Gosford going back up early in the morning with the trailer and another MAP of my sons drift car.
1 psi less boost and 8 more kW.
Steve
Flintstones ·
at least there was a positive in that Steve 👍
1303Steve ·
got to look on the bright side
1303Steve ·
OK new MAP fitted, old one was showing 3 bar with the motor off
Craig Torrens ·
wow, you're going to be quick at Cooma 👍
1303Steve ·
Hope so, combined with the 15 inch wheels and more kW it should pick up some time and kph, just hope it stays on the ground, I think I might put the whale tail on again
Camo ·
Great work Steve, you must be happy with that 😀
When you say picking up more KPH, I thought you went to a smaller rolling diameter tyres (15's) and I thought that was meant to be for the drags only.
In the words of the great Pauline Hansen, 'Please Explain' 😂😂😂
Cheers, Kev
1303Steve ·
Hi Kev
Its so overgeared I will never run out of gears so running the 15s should lower the final drive enough to get into 5th on the 1000 I hope and that will still be good for 299 kph which I dont I will reach.
Steve
Flintstones ·
Here's hoping Steve.
Out of curiosity what's the dub weigh?
Cheers
D
1303Steve ·
1160, fat chick
lou0060 ·
good number Stevo!!
glad we are running the 1/8 mile and not 1/4 next weekend otherwise wouldn't see you for the dust!!
Be interesting to see your numbers for the 1/8 and compare to last year.
might have to feed you up over the weekend to get the power to weight ratio level with me................. lol!
1303Steve ·
I went down to Cooma and ran my Beetle at the Snowy Mountains 1000, it’s a bit like a drag race but only a single car at a time and at over 1000 metres on Cooma airport runway, it’s much longer than a traditional ¼ mile which is only 402.336 metres.
There was an amazing variety of cars running, even an electric Radical race car and a strong contingent of VWs. Wayne Penrose came down and ran his beautiful Karmann Ghia for the 1st time and was awarded a trophy for fastest normally aspirated 4 cylinder.
This year I had a bit of completion in my class, I guy I work with ran his immaculate Datsun 1600 powered by a 350 kW SR20 engine, he was about 1.5 seconds quicker than me and took the class win, I came second. I finished at about 50th out of 135 cars.
This year I did few things to my car to make it run faster and I managed to go a bit quicker, last year my best time was 22.513 seconds @ 226 km/h, this year I did 22.3247 @ 236.7 km/h, I had 4 runs, two where I went from 2nd gear to fifth gear one were my coolant overflow sprayed onto my ignition coils and the one where I got my best time which wasn’t a very good run as it was late in the day and I had a lot of wheel spin off the line, so car is going great, driver needs more time doing angry gear changes. Can’t wait till next year.
The VW/Audi times
SALLY-ANNE HAINS AUDI RS6 0:20.5470
SEBASTIAN NAJDER VOLKSWAGEN GOLF R 0:21.7327
STEPHEN MULLER VOLKSWAGEN GOLF R 0:22.1637
STEVE CARTER VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE 0:22.3247
GRANT HAYES AUDI S4 0:23.1235
MARCO MAK AUDI S3 0:24.0880
KEVIN ATKINSON VOLKSWAGEN GOLF R 0:24.4159
KRISTOPHER MULLER VOLKSWAGEN GOLF PIR 0:25.3367
TOBY FINDLAY AUDI S5 0:25.9065
MATHEW CAMERON SKODA FABIA RS 0:26.1783
WAYNE PENROSE VOLKSWAGEN KARMANN G 0:26.3953
MADELINE MOLNAR VOLKSWAGEN POLO GTI 0:27.3311
GLENN TORRENS VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE 0:27.9867
DARREN RANSON VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 1.4 0:28.2414
MICHAEL MOLNAR VOLKSWAGEN GOLF R32 0:28.3278
beetleboyjeff ·
I still like it better with the wing on.
Great work Steve
1303Steve ·
a video of my best run which was still up the shit
vassy66T1 ·
Good numbers and speed
236kmh in a beetle 😵💫
1303Steve ·
Thanks car felt great even with 12 psi in the rear tyres.
Ive finally sorted my intake temp issue, I've been short circuiting my ice box so that ice water goes from the ice box and back to the cooler then back to the ice box, didn't see intake temps over 40 all day, I taped up the radiator intake and it still ran cool, loving E85
Flintstones ·
2nd in class, great work Steve!
Curious to hear your thoughts on running 15's compared to the 18's...
cnfabo ·
Jeez that's fast,would not want to do that in a beetle,lol
1303Steve ·
15s look ugly but weigh a lots less, so it has got to help acceleration, my car is very tall geared so it also helps with acceleration
Jak Rizzo ·
Stevie
I thought this was you but then I realised your skin tone is lighter
jak
1303Steve ·
very funny Jak, hes much younger than me as well, looks like one of Dicks wings
Jak Rizzo ·
the extension on the wing is pretty cool, & propbably very functional being much higher, needs bigger wheels like yours though
1303Steve ·
Hi
This is a professional video of the Snowy Mountains 1000, I'm interviewed
Steve
beetleboyjeff ·
I thoroughly enjoyed that. Love the shot of Glenn right at the end. :-)
Flintstones ·
Was a great vid Steve 👍
You car looked stable at speed.
1303Steve ·
Thanks guys
I think I can push the speed higher again, the car feels like Im doing 110 kph on the freeway
1303Steve ·
Hi
I'm off to Sydney Motorsport Park soon for a twilight supersprint on the Gardener circuit, Rudi is running his STI as his bug is in pieces
Ive done some suspension improvements and I have about 70 more kilowatts since the last time I did a supersprint, should be fun.
videos tomorrow.
Steve
PAZZAN ·
missed it. I wish posted it earlier would have come out 😢
1303Steve ·
well lots more kilowatts and a wet track dont go well together, I was running on low boost for two laps in the rain got overconfident and put the boost up to the next level lost traction and hit the wall coming onto the main straight.
I bent a lower control arm, broke the bottom off a strut, creased the front 1/4 panel, broke two mudguards and head light but worst of all is I bent the chassis at the torsion bar housing and the front part of chassis where the sway bar bolts on.
I always regretted putting so much weight in steel into my chassis, so I have a spare chassis that I was saving for a rainy day at the side of my garage, it will get modified with less steel this time
1303Steve ·
well lots more kilowatts and a wet track dont go well together, I was running on low boost for two laps in the rain got overconfident and put the boost up to the next level lost traction and hit the wall coming onto the main straight.
I bent a lower control arm, broke the bottom off a strut, creased the front 1/4 panel, broke two mudguards and head light but worst of all is I bent the chassis at the torsion bar housing and the front part of chassis where the sway bar bolts on.
I always regretted putting so much weight in steel into my chassis, so I have a spare chassis that I was saving for a rainy day at the side of my garage, it will get modified with less steel this time
HappyDaze ·
What a bugger !!!!
It's good to see you have still got your sense of humour, Steve..."spare chassis that I was saving for a rainy day".
Cheers, Greg
mactaylor ·
Bugger! sorry to here mate!
Bizarre ·
OUCH!
yeah - bloody sorry to hear.
1303Steve ·
thanks guys, I already have a plan to fix some things that I did wrong last time and make it better
Took me all day to get it out of the trailer and into my garage
fish26 ·
I'm glad you are ok Steve, i never thought your car was set up for Supersprint especially with 70 more kw of Subaru power and in the wet, was there a mechanical failure before the loss of control?
PAZZAN ·
oh no, mate that terrible news, you dont always realise 😵💫 how fast your going when you hit something I bet you saw the wall coming and said this is going to hurt..
1303Steve ·
Car has very good handling so it was going really good, I was actually chasing down Rudi in his STI, we were both coming onto main straight with Rudi in front and I thought there's going to be drag race to turn 1, so I selected boost group 2 which is about 250kW, as soon as it came onto boost it stepped sideways and pointed me at the wall, I was a passenger from then on, I was probably only doing 80-90 kph.
I fitted my Simmons with track tyres on them, I hadn't really given the Advan Neveos a good run before, they were sticking really well even in the wet
1303Steve ·
a few photos
1303Steve ·
two more
adlbeetle66 ·
Ouch, ouch, ouch 😢😢😢
PAZZAN ·
yep thats a big hit👍
Flintstones ·
That's nasty!
How are you though Steve?
At least you've got another pan to get started on.
lou0060 ·
ahh man! sad news Steve. I only just saw this tonight. you better get cracking thou, nationals in May!! maybe you should rip the other strut out and stick a BJ front end in it......
anyway at least you are okay, car can be fixed and sounds like you have some improvements in mind.
I'll give you a call during the week...
1303Steve ·
Thanks I'm OK, the medic guys were worried about my blood pressure, all I wanted to do was get back to my car and see what happened to it and make sure the tow truck drivers didnt hurt it anymore, lucky my son was there and stopped them doing anything stupid
1303Steve ·
PS I have 4 weeks leave at the end of the week, my wife said looks like nothing will get done around the house again. I also had just fitted brand new Konis to the front
vw54 ·
Struts will do that
1303Steve ·
getting rid of the struts could help I think? by making the car slower, nah screw that
vw54 ·
Torsion Bar wont turn you into a WALL
Bizarre ·
vw54 wrote:Torsion Bar wont turn
That is right Dave 😂
HappyDaze ·
1303Steve wrote:getting rid of the struts could help I think? by making the car slower, nah screw that
Steve, if you change your mind, and decide to go slower...Dave's the man to show you how. 👍
vw54 ·
at least I wont spend 12 months repairing the struts 😂😂😂
1303Steve ·
Hi
Powercruise was on this weekend in Sydney, I was going to take my Beetle to it but that wasn't going to happen, so my son found this little beauty for me, a Nissan 180 SX, came with a healthy SR20DET, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, two sets of wheels, new coil overs etc.
Fixed a few little issues, rego on Friday, did several cruise sessions and my son did about 3 hours of drifting with it and it didn't have any problems, its a bit gutless after my Beetle but its a really nice car to drive.
Steve
vw54 ·
That is right Dave 😂
hey Barry I don't recall seeing you on the track at any stage Drags or Circuit maybe yr still building your struts
Camo ·
Steve,
Great to see you still got out there and had some fun and bloody good work to Dave (your son) for organising a ride 😁👍
Bizarre ·
vw54 wrote:hey Barry I don't recall seeing you on the track at any stage Drags or Circuit maybe yr still building your struts
A few trips up the straights Dave - not too much of the roundy rounds
STIDUB ·
This isnt what i expected to see after jumping on here steve :O
AUSSIE_MICK ·
Nissan Sr20, way to go Steve👍
1303Steve ·
I followed your lead Mick
lou0060 ·
stick the sti in it Steve.....
give the 86 guys a run for their money.....
and stop piss farting around with jap cars and get back to the shed to get the beetle back on the road......
1303Steve ·
Hi
Between Nissans, my sons Beetle and other cars I haven't done much to my bug, but I went to Bunnings today and bought some timber and stuff to make a body dolly. I saw this design on youtube
Steve
1303Steve ·
I've had whopping cough the last few weeks and it has hit me pretty hard so I haven't done much on the car, its just about ready to lift the body off the pan.
But I have been doing a lot of planning so hopefully it all go well soon
Just got my Simmons wheels fixed thanks to Magman at Puncbowl, he stripped them, repaired an outer rim and painted them the same charcoal as my other wheels.
All Alloy Welding welded and straightened one of the centres, excellent work by them and I had to buy a new inner and outer rim from Tempe Tyres
1303Steve ·
Car is at the panel shop now, working on the new chassis but I found another problem, the G50 bell housing is cracked very badly, anybody know anybody that might have one?
sorry about the crappy phone pics
Bizarre ·
Can you get it welded?
1303Steve ·
Hi Barry
Thats the plan, if not maybe buy another G50, but at $8000 I will try welding first
reub ·
There is one on eBay for $6k 😉
1303Steve ·
Thanks for that, thats an AWD box, bigger again
PAZZAN ·
I love my subi gearbox in the buggy might be time to get one Steve
1303Steve ·
I'm thinking about it Paul but I'm not sure if it would handle my power output or hard launches that I do at the Snowy or drag racing, it would make the car lighter. Cost wise a Subaru box with good stuff in it is getting up there as well
PAZZAN ·
dont forget the weight of a wrx and they have all wheel drive, my buggy is 840 kilos and I know my old vw gearbox would not have handled the 250 hp my buggy has a the wheels..you could probably part the g50.. have a talk to Todd he backs his product👍
1303Steve ·
already spoken to Todd, he said stay with G50, my car weighed 1160 stripped ready to race at WSID, a G50 weighs 66 kgs, what does a Subaru box weigh?
Im taking the bellhousing to get welded next week, I will see how that goes then make a decision
Flintstones ·
Steve, see if the welder can add some gussets to the box for additional strength.
1303Steve ·
good idea. the bell housing is very thin in some areas as it runs a 240 mm cluttch
1303Steve ·
Hi
G50 bell housing is at All Aluminium welding at Chipping Norton, they are confident that it can be repaired and made stronger, fingers crossed.
Chassis is well under way
Steve
1303Steve ·
I picked up the bellhousing form All Aluminium Welding, they did a great job, I will take it back out to Michael Newton the Porsche specialist for him to reassemble the G50.
I'm taking the pan to the panel beater tomorrow for a test fit
Bizarre ·
👍
1303Steve ·
Hi
Body is now temporarily on the pan so the panel beater can give it a tug to line the front 1/4 back up again, once he's finished with it I will get the pan finished off and painted.
Entries are open Wednesday for the Snowy Mountains 1000 in November, if I cant get my bug ready in time I will take my rice rocket daily a 180SX Nissan.
Steve
1303Steve ·
My entry is confirmed for the Snowy Mountains 1000, the G50 is back together and ready to be picked up
1303Steve ·
Panel work is finished, it will be painted next week, then I can get started on the chassis.
I'm going to fit an air intake in the right rear mudguard like Jak and Matt have done, I will pass air through a BMC air filter box http://www.bmcairfilters.com/eng/ota-oval-trumpet-airbox/acota70-85l230-b/812/art Im going to lift and turn my turbo so I dont have to run air under the inlet manifold and fit a V band housing to it
I've fitted a E85 Walbro fuel pump in place of the Bosch 044
Flintstones ·
Sounds like you're making good progress Steve.
boof2332 ·
Hey mate,
Good to see you at Valla..happy to help you with the rear guards if you need it. I can reverse mould mine and make you a set..
Glad your car is coming back together too.
1303Steve ·
Hi Matt
It was good to finally meet up after all these years. Some help would be good with my scoop, I'm only going to do right hand side, what size hose do you run off yours and do you have any tyre clearance issues with it?
Steve
boof2332 ·
Hey steve,
Its a 90mm pipe however it is not a whole pipe..its more like a oval shape where it comes under the guard. I have had it rub a couple of times however i was planning on making a few minor adjustments to fix this issue.
Ill have a go at making a mold of mine for you..bit bored at the moment..haha
1303Steve ·
Thanks Matt that would be great
mactaylor ·
Hey Boof2332 How much wider are your guards? is the scoop on both sides? Might be interested in a set!
boof2332 ·
They are just aero guards on the front and rear that I have modified.
I made a set of aero style wide guards without the large tail light years ago and have the molds but one of them had separation problems and i need to grind the mold back before i can glass a set. should get onto that as well The shape of the intakes will be slightly different depending on the style of rear guard that you have.
Let me have a play this weekend and see if i can make a generic one.
Wife is out to night so no distractions!!!
boof2332 ·
Got the mold out I made years ago. supposed to be aero style rear for early bugs.
boof2332 ·
Didn't have any gel coat so I just popped out a glass one to see how it looked..!
boof2332 ·
another view.
boof2332 ·
Intakes will be this week..ha
mactaylor ·
Looks good boof! if you can put intakes on both sides that would be nice! PM me a price please! As light as possible!
1303Steve ·
boof2332 wrote:Intakes will be this week..ha
cool, thanks for that
1303Steve ·
Hey Mactaylor ,my son and I coming down to Wilby Park for a drift event on 17th & 18th September if your around pop in if you can
mactaylor ·
sounds like a plan steve!
1303Steve ·
Hi
Just picked up my Beetle body shell from W&R Smash at Peakhurst, all fixed now and a great job as usual, I don't have room in my garage to work on fixing the chassis and store the body so I took the body shell out to Auto Vault http://www.autovaultstorage.com.au/ at Sydney Olympic Park. I even got a preffered site next to the owners pickup and Chevy. While I had trailer on the car I picked up the 1 3/4 tubing to make the new reinforcing on the chassis from Racetech at Eastern Creekhttp://racetechsteel.com.au/
Steve
1303Steve ·
mactaylor wrote:sounds like a plan steve!
Looks like it only be on the Saturday now, look for this car
Bizarre ·
Auto Vault is good value. Looked into them before.
1303Steve ·
Bizarre wrote:Auto Vault is good value. Looked into them before.
I know the owner of the place, I live next door to his sister, premises are owned by sister & brother in law, they use the front half.
I just bought a .63 Tial V Band rear housing for my turbo, Im going to lift and rotate the turbo. I was lucky a good friend happened to be near ATP in north Cali and picked it up for me.
boof2332 ·
Ok gonna make a uniroyal funcup style scoop kust to see how it goes for clearance etc. Can always use the design I have if you like that.
boof2332 ·
foam, plastic pipe and base coat to get the shape.
had to beat the aluminum sheet so it has roughly the same curve as the guard when it gets attached from underneath.
boof2332 ·
Had to shape the crap out of it and then finish it in clay, sprayed with blue pva release agent and is now ready to be glassed..
boof2332 ·
ill keep you posted.
1303Steve ·
Thanks Matt
1303Steve ·
Hi
been getting a bit done on the chassis. I'm going to lay my shocks a little further forwards to give more axle clearance.
I'm really happy with the tube bender and notcher that I bought from Affordable benders, really nice bend with no kinks. I made the first bit to go over the transmission and allow the torsion bar inner spline area to be removed.
I made an extra base for the hoop using 50x50 tube, I made it into a U channel and I was having difficulty cutting a hole with the notcher until I welded a length of angle to it
1303Steve ·
welded the hoop to torsion bar housing and added an extra bit at the base.
1303Steve ·
Did the big cut today, fitted splines for short torsion bars.
1303Steve ·
modified the area behind the spring plates to clear the 944 spring plate bolts
vw54 ·
looking good
mactaylor ·
Hi Steve! you going to put this chassis on a bit of a diet?
1303Steve ·
I think I can save as few kgs, I was a bit liberal with 25x50 RHS, it weighed in at 1180 ready to race, not tools, spare wheel etc
mactaylor ·
You still going to wilby?
1303Steve ·
G50 test fit tonight, plenty of clearance now
1303Steve ·
As Im busy with the chassis I dropped the motor of to Ichibahn to have more killer wasps added, ARP 625 headstuds, valve springs and head gaskets, motor was just sitting there so I thought while its out I might see what we can get out of it.
I also removed all of the redundant tubes in the tunnel
mactaylor ·
Was good meeting you both last weekend! Hope you both had fun! Cam is still talking about going for a run with dave!
1303Steve ·
Good to meet you both, the Wilby track people were happy with how the second ever drift event went, so hopefully more in the future, bring your helmet next time
1303Steve ·
boof2332 wrote:Intakes will be this week..ha
Hi Matt
Can you shot a me a PM with your phone number, Cheers
1303Steve ·
A bit more progress, fitted up a Subary Gears engine cradle
1303Steve ·
Lots of work happening on the pan, should be ready for a sandblast and paint this week.
My dyno guy always had trouble strapping my car down so I had some brackets profile cut, I will also have long strap made up for it for CAMS events as a rear tow point, rear tow points are a hassle on most Beetles as the there is nowhere really solid to use.
I'm using new flat floor pans from GT Beetles so no built in seat mounts, so I made some seat frames for my Recaros from scratch
1303Steve ·
Dropped the chassis at Quickstrip in Milperra today to get blasted, so paint soon and then bolt it all back together
1303Steve ·
on the trailer
1303Steve ·
started painting the pan
vw54 ·
That's better now I don't have to turn my head or look at the bricks l
black is good
1303Steve ·
When I came home from Boris' picnic day I put a 2nd coat on the bottom of the pan, going to flip it tomorrow and put a 2nd coat on the top, I can then start reassembling the pan. For a few years I've been using this Black Zinc paint on bumper brackets etc with good results so I decided to paint the whole pan with it
Bizarre ·
looking good Steve
1303Steve ·
thanks Barry
1303Steve ·
body on pan tomorow.
I bought some heavy duty tie rods from Lanner at Veedub engineering, they are much stronger than the tie rod ends
1303Steve ·
Lots happening been too busy to update
I've had the turbo lifted up higher in the engine bay, Brad & Beau at Westside did some incredible work again for me.
made an extension V band up pipe, made a V band dump, fitted a Varex muffler and a Turbosmart wastegate. they also altered the position of sensors in my inter cooler and inter cooler feed pipe, made a 3 inch pipe to go into my air filter, rerouted the coolant pipes where the old turbo inlet was under the manifold and welded some tabs to my ice box so I can relocate it on the other side of the fire wall
1303Steve ·
Hi
Still really busy and Powercruise is coming up in a few weeks. When I put the rear suspension back together I kept the spring plates at the same angle as before, car has lifted an inch so I think my chassis diet has worked.
Car is at the tuner now having a tickle.
I've done a mudguard air intake that I think turned out quiet good, the mudguard is painted now but I don't have a picture of it.
Top view of the motor
Steve
PAZZAN ·
whos tunes yours
1303Steve ·
Hi
I get DVS on the central coast to tune, hes very good.
1303Steve ·
Latest dyno results
BlasterTheRedBajaBug ·
Great job Steve you have a beautiful car.
Flintstones ·
Nice, what RPM was that at?
1303Steve ·
Thanks guys. Thats at 7000, I was hoping for more but I took it up with engine covers off so the tuner was worried about getting hit in the head with a car part if he pushed it any further, still more left in the turbo if I need any more but with improved midrange and the weight reduction its should keep me happy for a while.
AUSSIE_MICK ·
Happy days Steve 👍
silver ·
1303Steve wrote:Thanks guys. Thats at 7000, I was hoping for more but I took it up with engine covers off so the tuner was worried about getting hit in the head with a car part if he pushed it any further, still more left in the turbo if I need any more but with improved midrange and the weight reduction its should keep me happy for a while.
I don't think you will need anymore.. hah ha
1303Steve ·
I think I broke a piston at Powercruise, so forged stroker motor now, so more boost more power and more revs
HappyDaze ·
Pist'n broke...we've all been there Steve. 🙄
1303Steve ·
Thanks Greg, that often happens to me, I got to drive for 3 days and it was a blast
maloo ·
Hi Steve
Wow your custom frame horn section is awesome! Makes mine seem really weak in comparison!
cheers
Mark
1303Steve ·
maloo wrote:Hi Steve
Wow your custom frame horn section is awesome! Makes mine seem really weak in comparison!
cheers
Mark
Thanks Mark, I had to go that way because of the Porsche gearbox, a Subaru box would have been a simpler conversion but big power needs a big gearbox
1303Steve ·
OK motor is stripped, burnt piston and a twisted conrod, so stroker crank forged rods and pistons and doweled water jackets. should be good to bring on the turbo sooner and it will be able to revved higher, same motor combo is good for 400 kW at the wheels in AWD drive cars
Camo ·
Once a rev-head, always a rev-head 👍
Luv ya work Steve, keep it up (the cars that is) 😁
itawolf ·
looking good Steve
JOEL where are you????
1303Steve ·
thanks, motor will be going back in soon, cant wait
kiwiev ·
Nice Steve
Thanks for the Chat the other day making progress
Cheers Kiwi
1303Steve ·
kiwiev wrote:Nice Steve
Thanks for the Chat the other day making progress
Cheers Kiwi
Nice to talk to you
OK, tune to morrow at DVS, just did 1000ks running in the new motor, it feels very lively
1303Steve ·
added some gooies, Raduim rails and fuel pressure dampener
Bizarre ·
👍
Great stuff Steve
1303Steve ·
A bit of a delay with the tuner, he's had a few headache cars to deal with and he asked me to delay bringing the car up.
this is what was done to the motor
Block has been doweled to prevent cylinder wall splitting
14 mm head studs fitted
Manley forged pistons
Argo I beam rods
Race bearings
New EJ257 crank
Full blue print of motor
Genuine 11 mm oil pump
New genuine water pump
Flintstones ·
Some serious gear there Steve, what rwkw are you aiming for this time?
Cheers
D
1303Steve ·
The engine builder put a limit of 8000 rpm, 30 psi and 400 kW, it will be up to what the turbo can handle. you can really feel the difference the stroker crank makes, it should bring everything on sooner, turbo is GTX30/76 with a .63 rear housing and I don't want to do this again
Flintstones ·
Nice souvenir 😂👍
1303Steve ·
Car is still at the tuner, the tuner has issues in the past getting the variable inlet cams to make any difference in the the way the car runs, Adaptronic have now supplied a new ECU which is their latest version in the Modular series
1303Steve ·
I picked up some motor insurance today, an Accusump. I had one years ago but my son used it on his drift car so I had to buy another one.
They give you pre oiling before starting the motor and also make up for oil surge causing the motor to drop oil pressue
vw54 ·
Accumulator
1303Steve ·
vw54 wrote:Accumulator
yep
1303Steve ·
Red blue green 3 boost settings
Pink is old setup
it made 305 kw on 29 psi, the smaller rear housing is hurting the top end but it also made 200kw at 4,500 which is really impressive, catching the train up tomorrow to pick it up
I also fitted an intercooler temp gauge, the intercooler is working fine
