Wax Undersealing

Anyone got any experience of Wax underseals. The various products? I like wax because its reasonably transparent so you can see potential problems arising and you can keep adding to it. The wax under my 1302 seems to be original and is very hard to shift which is good.... i imagine.

privatelux wrote:Anyone got any experience of Wax underseals. The various products? I like wax because its reasonably transparent so you can see potential problems arising and you can keep adding to it. The wax under my 1302 seems to be original and is very hard to shift which is good.... i imagine.

Hi
as far as I know We didn't have Wax on Aussie beetles and mine was made in Germany..
I see it it used in many countries with bad rust problems..
and comes from the VW Factory waxed..

I myself use fishoil...
as it dries clear and stops air getting to the metal so, no rust..
and You can also add it whenever You want to...
it runs like oil into crevices etc..
can be sprayed or painted on with a brush etc...

cheers

LEE

Everyone on the UK forums seems to be obsessed with Waxoyl, so it must work. I prefer a good coat of paint, or otherwise fish oil.

50 50 Tectyl and fish oil. m

If you just use fish oil it dries out and cracks needs constant reapplication .

tectly by itself doesnt creep as well as fish oil but forms a waxy coat and doesnt need reapplication

50 50 breast of both great initial creep into fissures but sets waxy and stays.
BTW unless you have good prep its (any method ) a waste of time. Mitchell

Fish oil is good. Motor oil works wonders too but is a lot messier and not ideal if you want to paint again.

SW2 from por15 is suppose to be good as well, but I haven't used any myself yet.

Beetles sold in New Zealand were originally Australian made. There was a small assembly shop in Auckland that put together Australian-made CKD kits in the mid 1960s. But after Australian manufacture ceased in 1968, New Zealand imported fully built-up Beetles both from Australia, and Germany.

The '1302' was not sold in Australia. We got a version of the European '1302S' that was assembled here from CKD kits and sold as the 'Superbug S'. It has become common practice in Australia nowadays to refer to the Superbug as the '1302' or '1303' - I suppose people think it makes them sound kewl. I don't know what name they used for sale in NZ, or whether your car was made in NZ or Germany. The manufacturer's plate will tell you.

Yes as Lee says, Australian-made VWs did not use wax. Yours could have had an aftermarket treatment at some later stage of its life. Companies like Endrust used to be very popular, but modern cars don't need it as much. Volkswagen AG used full body cavity hot wax flooding on their cars from the early '80s on (have a look under a T3 Kombi!), and nowadays they use galvanised body panels extensively.

A good alternative to fish oil for home application on an old car is Lanotech - see http://www.lanotec.com.au/

I used Waxoyl back in the UK many years ago and it was sold with a pump up pressure bottle like a garden sprayer and the idea was that you sprayed inside bax cavities or inside doors etc then the solventevaporated leaving behind a waxy/ greasy film behind and if it was applied underneath the car or under the wheel arches then if a stone chipped it then it would 'bleed' over and therefore sealing it. I suppose it wouldn't be too difficult to make something up that would give the same result

waveman1500 wrote:Everyone on the UK forums seems to be obsessed with Waxoyl, so it must work. I prefer a good coat of paint, or otherwise fish oil.

There's a fair few of us who like to paint the arches in a light coloured paint before waxoyling/schutz(ing)

When the waxoyl splits/cracks you can see the white coming through

But we get our roads covered in rock salt in winter

In the business advert section there is a new product called Rust Bullett that seems to read well.