There was a post asking about raising the tranny. I'd post this there if I could find it again....but this pan had a 1" tranny raise without removing the body....bit of a rush job as it was on the Hillbilly racer for Warwick '09. The early type 2 nose and hockey stick lowers the shift rod 22mm IIRC, but if it's a less than perfect body, clearance can be persuaded. The body gets a bit tight at the clutch arm area and the body requires a bit of work at the bell housing / engine seal area too.
Hope it helps.
1916baja ·
thanks mate! thats exactly the info i was after! where did you get the raising kit? the rear and midmounts? also in your opinion, is it worth doing?
thanks
Mick.
RISKY4LIFE ·
here are some pic's of the setup in my buggy
there was a bloke on here selling the ones i got mark a1200isslow not sure how to get on to him
mine is a 3 " nice alloy setup rear and mid and steel front
2 " would might have worked
pic arn't great
matberry ·
I modified the readily available parts to retain the std or replacement urethane mounts. There was someone advertising here selling an alloy plate version, but that is solid.
The bottom pic was all I could find, just use the rear mount only, the front strap is next to useless.
Is it worth it??
Lower car, less camber 👍👍
You should also limit the wheel down travel by at least the same amount as the raise.
RISKY4LIFE ·
one more
yeah mat is right the more lift the less travel before the bump stops thats why i when up with everything
next pic look a bit crazy 😀
matberry ·
Here's the extended intermediate mount
1916baja ·
Matt - being that it's for a drag car, is there any reason you didn't solid mount it? Thats the path i was thinking of taking but i'm curious now as to why it may be a bad idea?
matberry ·
Solid's fine for a race only setup, I like the soft mounts with the intermediate support for a HD street set up.
1916baja ·
ok, wow risky! i just took a second look at that pic! a lot of handy work gone in there...