Pokey the Wunderbus! (1976 Westalia Conversion, ej22)

I was talking to a parts guy today and he brought up something i wasnt aware of.

I've got a 76 westy that will be getting an ej22 come summer time (im up here). I plan on using an adapter plate and flywheel from kennedy engineering (or hecker machine, identical parts really). I understand the flywheel will have a 200mm clutch (not an issue) but what i wasnt aware of is the buses have different input shafts and bellhousings year to year.

Or thats how he made it sound.

He said if i have a 091 trans it'll have a different input shaft and bellhousing some how? Does anyone know anything about this? I'm leaning towards it doesnt matter cause i havent read a single thing about that being an issue but, who knows?

EDIT:

Hijacking my own thread to make a build thread on this beast. Might as well start somewhere 🙂

The 1600 kombi box has a shorter input shaft than the 1700/1800 box input shaft. This is due to different engines they use.
The 091 bellhousing is longer to cope with the larger clutch(228mm) and pressure plate. I don't know if the input shaft is longer again on the 091.

edit: the 091 input shaft will stick out past the bellhousing face the same amount as the 1700/1800 input shaft

Do you know how much shorter? My t1 box seems to jive alright with the conversion plate, with the t2 jive with it ok?

Soooo, i take it it wont be an issue. I'm sure if someone has had problems i'd know about it the amount of reading i've done 😀

Alrighty well i talked to KEP and they say that as long as i use the 200mm clutch i can use the 200mm flywheel with any transmission. The bellhousing/input shaft confusion was just that. The input shafts are the same, but the bellhousing is larger to accept a larger flywheel. I opted to go with a 200mm kit with a much stronger pressure plate as there are far more options as far as pressure plates and clutch disks go.
Here's some pictures of the beast:

Ubiquitous interior shot:


Sure is slow driving on THREE CYLINDERS!?


This is the good side, the other is barf green:


And of course the lowly japanese lump that'll push it around some day:

So, a few questions, first is the easiest:
Where the heck do i put the radiator? I remember reading about 'between the rails' radiators so i stuck my head under there and had a look. Do you really put a radiator between the frame rails? How does it fit in there without sticking out and getting smacked with rocks? I drive alot on rough dirt roads, so i need something that i'm not going to destroy. Is there somewhere else to put it?

I was eyeing the space to the right of the right frame rail, sure theres no 'skid protection' there but the space is alot deeper, i might be able to squeeze in a radiator there but i dont know how the fans will fit.

Am i missing something? Feels like i'm not seing an obvious solution to where to put the radiator.

In the beetle i put it up front, but that was only 20 feet total of steel line i had to run, plus i had somewhere to put it. I'm just not seeing anywhere that sticks out as a good place to put one.

Woo! I got my harness, ecu, and exhaust manifold today. I got the harness the old fashioned way and tore the entire thing out without cutting anything (except obviously not engine stuff, namely the umbilical going back to the rear of the car).

That is ALOT of work, although the car was already mostly taken apart (steering wheel off, dash loosened). I had to take the dash out (unhook all the wires from it) take out the dash support frame (big piece of steel going left to right that stiffens the car) the heater blower (nice unitized construction, i might use that for my heater) evaporator core and box, heater core and box.

So now i have about 40 pounds in wiring i have to pare down to whatever is running the engine, shouldnt be too hard. Alot easier (technically not physically) than what i did with the Volksaru (i cut the computer harness, and the engine harness, and put them together later).

I'll get my camera going, this bundle of wires is pretty impressive.

Edit: Got some pictures

If your not fussed about looks the old fashioned way to mount them here in aus was on the front to a bullbar.

back in the 80s and early 90s when baywindow busses were worth absolutley nothing and the people that drove them were too tight to spend money on type4 engines there were 100s and 100s fitted with EA81 and EA82 subarus, amonst other crap like mitsubishi arsetrons, 4A toyotas, L20B nissans etc

nearly all had front mounted rads, pipe length doesnt seem to be an issue just as long as its easily bled.
No different to factory watercooled caravelles.

Hrmm, thats not a bad idea. I guess pipe length isnt important, as long as its one column of water. My challenge would be to make it look right. Meaning i dont want it sticking way out in front, and i dont want it look like it was pasted on.
Probably a fiero radiator with a slim fan on it, sucking through from the front of course.

Fat trimmed


Lean retained 🙂

You're getting too much practice at that.
There's big demand in the US for someone that knows how to strip the looms 😉

with the radiator at the front there's a few options
Search for Rocknrobs conversion, he enclosed his just behind the nose skin under the dash with the fresh air grille as an intake and has been running it that way for years.

Or there was a a guy on here years ago with I think a V8 conversion, he put a cover over the rad so it looked like a spare wheel.

Hah, well i could strip looms, its not that hard. Not 800 dollars worth of hard i see charged on some sites, yeesh. Maybe out the door but not as a per-unit job.

I've been pondering the radiator situation, and i'm settling into the idea of incorporating the radiator into a roo bar type setup. Big square radiator in the middle, slim fan on the back, and bent up tube for a bumper type arrangement.

Could always do a "Roadcow" rad 😉 Google it IC

Whoa, damn. I thought about doing a roof radiator for about two seconds, then laughed heartily and dismissed it. That's one way to do it, but im pretty set on one out front 🙂 I dont have a little experience with front mounted radiators lol

Update!

Did some more work with pokey today. More fat trimming:


This motor is absolutely gigantic. I could live in the engine compartment after the engine is removed:


In fact i think i might just do that:



Hmm, something is missing i just cant quite put my finger on it:



That is all, have a good day.

Well done on the chilly looking progress. The 091 input shaft is definately longer than any others so you will need to remove it to swap or shorten.

Those type 4 engines are large to say the least, but like all good air coolers, they are a complete power plant, cooling system and all.

How's life in the enginebay??

Hmm well, we'll see how the input shaft situation shakes out. I've a feeling it wont be a problem, buts its tackleable later down the road 🙂
Will other input shafts swap in?

Joel wrote:If your not fussed about looks the old fashioned way to mount them here in aus was on the front to a bullbar.

back in the 80s and early 90s when baywindow busses were worth absolutley nothing and the people that drove them were too tight to spend money on type4 engines there were 100s and 100s fitted with EA81 and EA82 subarus, amonst other crap like mitsubishi arsetrons, 4A toyotas, L20B nissans etc

nearly all had front mounted rads, pipe length doesnt seem to be an issue just as long as its easily bled.
No different to factory watercooled caravelles.

*Cough. mutter mutter* at least the definition of cheap has changed. These days a very nice used car costs less than a type 4 rebuild.

I'll say one thing, a DIY frame rail rad install is a huge PITA. As soon as I get this thing roadworthy I'll be collecting up parts for a roo bar mounted rad so when I mutilate the underneath rad on a rock (and the sump and exhaust) its successor will be a drop in replacement.

hows the work going? Looks nice and cool there.

What's this about there being more space on one side of the frame rail? How is the space deeper there? The floor is at the same height, and the crossmembers taper upward toward the floor. It's also a lot narrower. Or am I missing something here?

Eh, it was just a thought. The front right side under the sliding door has a bit more vertical space, but you'd have to have a long skinny rad to use it. I'll be going with the rad up front, thats more my skill level at this point.

Update, dateline The Woods, temperature:20f wind:~20mph

The garage, as it were:


The motor is installed, sort of. It's up against the trans, the splines are meshed, but no nuts are on yet.


I had a hangup with one of the heater lines it took me a bit to find. I cut the hose off and bent the top line down about half an inch. I had to remove the EGR valve, it stuck out too much. Theres no way to rig it so the egr can stay, so i'll be making (40 dollars for a block off plate, lol) a plate to cover it.


I want to leave the throttle body as it is because i'd rather not go through the nightmare of the alternator versus the iac again. I also would like to see if i can run an a/c compressor as a regular compressor, just flip a switch and it'll start pushing air. Hmm.

Anyhow, i'll have to zip the nuts down, then go to work on making the motor mounts hook up to the frame. I'll be using the stock hangers on the frame, and the stock motor mounts on the engine. Maybe some square stock going up to the mount, to the other side, then back out to the other mount.

The motor is probably the physically hardest part. Nothing real tricky about it, line it up, push it in. I had an issue with the ramps being too high, so i had to jack up the right side, take the ramp out, and set it down on a jack stand thats about 9 inches lower. That did the trick 🙂

(thanks to joz on advrider for lending me his atv jack. worked perfectly just the way i hoped it would 🙂)

and i thought my workspace was primitive🤪


well done you are going great😎


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rocknrob wrote:and i thought my workspace was primitive🤪


well done you are going great😎


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Haha wtf are those wooden wheels?

Hey Inane,

I see you are in Colorado, least your plates are. I'm in the front range, greater Denver/Boulder area.

What year Subie engine do you have and are you going to use a throttle reverser or flip and rotate the manifold/wiring arrangement? I have a throttle reverser on mine but am worried about the idle air control valve, which sits on top of the throttle body. The gasket is a solid gasket with only the large round hole, no vacum port holes, so I am hopeful my arrangement is going to work.

I had to bend the top heater tube down about a 1/4 inch as well to align the upper cross bar bolt holes. Learned that the hard way! Did you have any issues with interference of the original air box arm and the oil filler tube? I had to "shorten" the original air box arm to get the oil filler tube to fit.

Looking forward to seeing your progress!

Haha yeah that's funny, i forgot about that but yes the original airbox arm interfered with the oil filler about a quarter inch. I just stuck a honkin screw driver in the hole in the arm and twisted the arm out of the way 🙂

For the throttle body, i'm going to see if i can get by with squeezing the ducting i've used before (central states hose, they're in commerce city and have EVERY kind of hose/duct/pipe/fitting you can possibly think of) in between the gas tank and the throttle. I removed the baffle for the gas tank to give me a few extra inches of space.

The throttle cable, i'll probably do what i did on the beetle and 'make' a cable of sorts. I used a PTFE tube (that opaque white/gray tubing thats about a quarter inch or so) then just a 1/16th braided steel cable as the inner cable section. All i did was hoop it through the throttle cable hole in the pedal (with a grommet) and swedge it down on itself. Works great and its much stronger than any one part of the system. The extra travel i needed i just got out of the pedal by lopping off the stop on the back of the pedal and smoothing it out so full throttle was another 10* or so in the pedal travel.

I know on the bus the accelerator pedal setup is different, so i'll have to look at it to see where that extra travel can come from. If it's a bell crank type setup i'll see if i can change the moment of one of the lever pieces in there. Same idea with the cable, though only this time i hope to make a much longer bit on the end, then just hoop it around and anchor it so its pointing backwards (or god help me even the stock accelerator cable anchor!).


Small world though, finding a few people that are 20 miles away on a forum website focusing on a place thousands of miles away 😂

dlrecord wrote:Hey Inane,

I see you are in Colorado, least your plates are. I'm in the front range, greater Denver/Boulder area.

What year Subie engine do you have and are you going to use a throttle reverser or flip and rotate the manifold/wiring arrangement? I have a throttle reverser on mine but am worried about the idle air control valve, which sits on top of the throttle body. The gasket is a solid gasket with only the large round hole, no vacum port holes, so I am hopeful my arrangement is going to work.

I had to bend the top heater tube down about a 1/4 inch as well to align the upper cross bar bolt holes. Learned that the hard way! Did you have any issues with interference of the original air box arm and the oil filler tube? I had to "shorten" the original air box arm to get the oil filler tube to fit.

Looking forward to seeing your progress!

Oh! Lemme answer your actual questions too lol:
My engine is a '96, and it sounds like you've got a '99 or newer due to the better IAC design. I dont know how the iac interacts with everything on that kind of setup with a throttle reverser. I did flip around the intake on the beetle, it worked pretty good except the alternator mount i had to make big long feet on it to clear everything (in fact, that just broke yesterday i'm heading out right now to re-weld it and add some gussets 🙂)

Inane Cathode wrote:I know on the bus the accelerator pedal setup is different, so i'll have to look at it to see where that extra travel can come from. If it's a bell crank type setup i'll see if i can change the moment of one of the lever pieces in there. Same idea with the cable, though only this time i hope to make a much longer bit on the end, then just hoop it around and anchor it so its pointing backwards (or god help me even the stock accelerator cable anchor!).

Simples dude, extend the crank mechanism (cable end) by welding on some more plate. Drill the hole at 15mm further out. I'll double check on my bus this w/e for ya. (Mine's a leftie too)

Runs off to "other side" http://www.vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewtopic.php?t=2898

Did some more pokeylogical related activities today:

First off, nuts are tightened now the engine is supported by the trans mounts (temporary of course). The nut for the starter bolt took 15 minutes by itself to do up. No other way to arrange that i suppose but damn.


Took the stock exhaust, stripped the heat shields (and suspiciously asbestos-but-not-actually off of it. Then i whacked the exhaust off the flanges, shortened each piece where it goes onto the flange by about an inch and a half, shortened the bottom leg. This brought the exhaust up under the transaxle, plenty of clearance, and provides a handy and well oriented flange to build the rest of the exhaust off of. I thought i had a clever idea using a zip tie as a nut :B




Finished product: One pokey exhaust manifold!

Did astonishingly little in a long period of time today:
Made these thingies for the mustache bar


Then i made some of these plate thingies


Then i boxed them in (white with flux dust)




They go together like this (have to make another little piece to go between the mounts, it'll be a three piece deal, cant make it one piece with the way the motor mount studs are pointed


Then i found a new and exciting way to break a cheap drill


Meh, i got more than $20 worth of use out of it, i'll just exchange it tomorrow 🙂

Sorry about the hiatus, bad weather and a speeding ticket blew through my universe and put a temporary halt to Mister Pokeylope's operation. With some funds and nice weather lately i've done a few more things to him.

First thing was finishing the engine mounts, and doing up the exhaust on there and checking clearances. Everything looks pretty good i think (ignore the poor welds, they could be better but they could be alooooooot worse)


Then i started on mounting the radiator. It's hard just coming up with a place and a way something is to be there when it hasnt before, if that makes any sense.


I did a pretty simple design, i think. The bottom has a couple of pieces that rest partly on the front bumper, partly welded to the front apron. The bottom supports the actual weight of the radiator vertically...


And the top part of the radiator mount keeps the radiator from wanting to fall back into the body, or fall out forwards in front, as well as keeps the weight straight up and down on the lower mount instead of trying to torque it out


Something like this


There are two struts that connect the top and the bottom. Hopefully, there will be a screen of some kind behind the struts to keep gravel from knicking any of the galleries.


Well thats pretty much it as far as progress. Doesnt look like much, i know. I think my welder creates some kind of time warp, because i spend all day working on -something- and at the end of the day i got hardly anything done, huh.

My welder has the same time warping ability. So far I've sunk a couple of days into the rear window sill and don't have much to show for it. All I'm really doing is rebuilding the lip in a few places!

Your progress is making me look bad. I'm loving this thread. I laughed at the snowy motor in the engine bay. Sorry.

Do you have any plans on reusing that oil cooler?

Mister Pokeylope update:

Woo! Cooling system is (almost all) done!

Hoses come out of the radiator, here




Go under the front apron here:


Up and over the steering linkage here:


And finally, up to the inlet/outlet on the motor 🙂


Now its on to smaller projects, wiring, hoses, cables, that sort of thing. Home stretch 🙂

Well i got all the wiring all wired (at least what i can do right now, no MAF, o2s or anything) and tried to start it.

It turns over just peachy, and it apparently is getting fuel, but it wont start (gas comes out the pin holes in the exhaust). Did the old screw-driver-spark-plug trick, no spark.

I did some poking (lol) around with the electronics and got a little tied up and bass ackwards with the main relay. Naturally i jump to the most technical problems (oh no, bad ecu! shorted harness! bad grounds!) After i'd turn the key on, it'd actually stay on for a minute or so. I got it into my head that this isnt supposed to happen so i tore through the diagrams and decided that theres no real way for it to short out, i never touched the power distribution so it should be from the factory still. So i tried the 'spare' ecu from the bug, still the same issue.

Well wtf? So, i gave up for the day (55 degrees drops off awful fast once the sun goes down in the trees). On the drive home (i live about an hour from the bus itself) i had an epiphany that maybe it's SUPPOSED to do that. I recalled working on the bug once where i had turned on the key, then off, then went around back and monkeyed with stuff, and i could hear something squealing. Turns out it was the IACV that was still on for some reason, i dismissed it as a strange happening. So, maybe the relays are working fine (fuel pump relay does it's thing, comes on during cranking and everything) and theres some other problem.

Oh well, no big deal. No sparks are easy to find, i think. Less smelly problems to have and most the work is done with a meter (tried doin the test light thing, not really hip on that for finer stuff).

Tried swapping the ignitor and coil packs?

Well the coil pack was the one on the beetle before i swapped it, should be fine. I dunno about ignitors though, cant imagine it'd go bad just sitting but it's worth checking.
I'll go through the checklist in the factory manual, it's usually pretty spot on 🙂 I'm thinking something stupid like the crank sensor is dirty or something. Of course, it is obdII so i'll before anything else plug the reader in and see what codes i've got 😀

Well allrighty, i did a bit more work. In the chart it has you check for power and ground in the ecu pinout. The power was good but i had a couple of grounds that werent grounded. One for the sensors and one for the ignition.

I grounded both and tried to start it, and after about 20 minutes of various forms of trying to start heres the result:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1x8UjnP9qBE

Its obviously not idling well, i cant imagine why. Wouldnt have anything to do with not having a MAF or o2 sensors, would it? All in good time with that stuff.

Here's the inside of my office today:


I have a nice forest view out my window in my office


Attack of the 50 foot vinyl spaghetti!


Some malcontent hacked these wires and swapped them, thinking that they were obviously wired backwards (red to yellow, yellow to red) then realized that it probably doesnt matter where either of the wires end up. Hmmmm...


That is all for now 🙂
Next project is:

Fabbing (uhg, welder time machine time again) up an exhaust that wont break off -_-.

Finding an airbox for my spare maf i had the forethought of buying when i didnt need to months ago.

Making a longer throttle cable of some construction (probably 1/16th braided steel a-la whats in the beetle) as well as lengthening the bell crank.

Getting and installing a temp sensor (no tach in the bus, i dont really see the point)

Installing the rad fan relay and wiring

Testing the cooling system (letting it warm up until it almost overheats or cools down as it should)

Finding seats that will work (its got some audi seats that are way too tall, you end up looking out the top of the windshield, and my hair brushes the ceiling). I'm thinking of getting some fiero seat rails and pontiac sunfire seats (by the way, the rails and sunfire seats are a bolt match) that should get me pretty low.

Then, other stuff.

Thanks for reading 😀

Its obviously not idling well, i cant imagine why. Wouldnt have anything to do with not having a MAF or o2 sensors, would it? All in good time with that stuff.

Here's the inside of my office today:


I have a nice forest view out my window in my office


Attack of the 50 foot vinyl spaghetti!


Some malcontent hacked these wires and swapped them, thinking that they were obviously wired backwards (red to yellow, yellow to red) then realized that it probably doesnt matter where either of the wires end up. Hmmmm...


That is all for now 🙂
Next project is:

Fabbing (uhg, welder time machine time again) up an exhaust that wont break off -_-.

Finding an airbox for my spare maf i had the forethought of buying when i didnt need to months ago.

Making a longer throttle cable of some construction (probably 1/16th braided steel a-la whats in the beetle) as well as lengthening the bell crank.

Getting and installing a temp sensor (no tach in the bus, i dont really see the point)

Installing the rad fan relay and wiring

Testing the cooling system (letting it warm up until it almost overheats or cools down as it should)

Finding seats that will work (its got some audi seats that are way too tall, you end up looking out the top of the windshield, and my hair brushes the ceiling). I'm thinking of getting some fiero seat rails and pontiac sunfire seats (by the way, the rails and sunfire seats are a bolt match) that should get me pretty low.

Then, other stuff.

Thanks for reading 😀

Even with any of the sensors out it's got a default setting to keep the engine running.

You can see in my error code vid the default setting with a dead TPS is to idle at 1500rpm 😂

Your coil pack plug wiring is abit nasty 😉

The ECU actually ignores any o2 sensor readings till it's above a set temp, but yes they don't like not having the AFM connected 😂

Joel wrote:Even with any of the sensors out it's got a default setting to keep the engine running.

You can see in my error code vid the default setting with a dead TPS is to idle at 1500rpm 😂

Your coil pack plug wiring is abit nasty 😉

The ECU actually ignores any o2 sensor readings till it's above a set temp, but yes they don't like not having the AFM connected 😂

Yeaaaaah, i know about the coil pack. Ghetto, at best. But, that's just a temporary setup. I'll be soldering and heat shrinking it like i should.
I've heard lately that you're supposed to use crimped joints instead of solder joints anymore. I dunno, i've never had a solder joint fail, but all the problems in intermittent connectivity has been from some kind of crimped connector.

Woo! Got to drive it today! Sorry about the lack of press release, haven't done a whole lot worth mention (and pictures of wires over and over arent very interesting!)

Got some coolant in it, got the rad fans relay-d, got some gas back in it, and enough of an exhaust to not set off car alarms further than 200 yards.

I wanted to get the temp gauge calibrated (i have a new vdo gauge, stock subaru sender). They seem to get along ok, 180 on the motor shows 180 or so on the gauge.

That said, they seem to get along all the way up past 200, unfortunately. Driving it just a couple blocks got it hot enough to boil. I shut it down and cooled it off a few times until i got back home.

I took the thermostat out and dropped it in some boiling water. Opened all the way right at 180 as planned. I then took the top hose off and filled up the motor as much as i could then ran it some more. Still got too hot.

I'm not sure whats going on, i suspect a giant air lock. So, my question is, how do i figure out exactly what's going on? I can't seem to cram any more coolant into it, and the lines i can squish dont seem to tell me much.

My other thought was perhaps the 'suck' side is connected to the top of the radiator, and the 'blow' side of the water pump is connected to the lower, is it just sucking air off the top of the radiator, or wouldnt it still flow through?

The setup i have, i dont have a header tank, my money is in the hat on that being whats wrong. A regular car can be a pain in the ass to fill with no header tank, i can imagine a 15 foot long U shaped system like i've got going on right now would be really hard to fill without an air bubble getting in there.

I think what i'll do next is put in a header tank, jetta, that way the setup would be virtually identical to what my beetle has, should work out fine like that 🙂

Pictures!

Air intake!


Funky hose setup, but it seems functional so far 🙂


Video to follow...

Pokey running

might be handy to have an air bleed on the water manifold on top of the engine...it can be hard to get the air out of there with the pipes running so low🤪

Yes actually i decided to get a coolant tank like whats on the beetle. It's installed and all hooked up, just havent gotten a chance to test it out yet 🙂

Nice work man. But I gotta ask about your air intake hose...what is that?



My project is still coming along but I'm dealing with the under the bus framerail mounted system right now. Since I have no welding skills, I ponied up to have it done professionally. Cooling lines and set up at the same time.

My next task is wiring and then hopefully firing it up. I am worried though about my reversed throttle body intake and the IACV being uside down...might have to take your approach and leave the throttle body stock and run a fresh air intake system like yours. Let me know.

-Dan

here is my custom radiator

....so I can do this, to make it look nice

ej20t

original - looks good 👍 👍 like it

I would black the bolt heads but that is a personal pick

yes.....I could have gone more conservative on the rad grill attach bolts. Had to be stainless bolts, and tried painting them, but when you need to unscrew...the paint is damaged by screwdriver - so I took the option of leaving the bolts as a feature.
These posts were a test......moving my "kombi story" to busses (link in members rides, too) - so I don't hijack this fellow's build pics.

See Stealth Kombi At:

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=89592&page=1

Picture boooooomb!

I've been working on the beast this whole time, but a combination of crappy weather, poor time management, and losing the camera means no pictures. Everyone likes pictures, so i took some 😀

Got this inductive proximity sensor so i can get my VSS put together. I'm thinking of arranging it so it sees the bolts holding the cv axle to the trans. I've had issues keeping the bolts snugged, and losing some of the fins on the sensor on the beetle, so i'll try the bolts on the bus this time.


Got a little bit of weather. Two feet, but the sun burnt it off pretty good.


Removed all the wood stuff, took the ugly ass 70's TV den veneer off. It's like... birch veneered plywood underneath, so i just sanded it down and urathaned right on the wood.


Rear area, excuse the mess. The gray thing is the tent that came with it, one of those godawful heavy cotton things. I had it out at least once but i cant figure out how it goes together. Into the rain channel i see, but im missing ALL the poles to it, anyone have an idea of how to copy the pole design?


Tore out the top


Got some modern 'canvas'. I think its heavy polyester, but its super waterproof and way strong.


Then i copied the old top


Put it together




Then put it back in. At this point i have the top stapled in (damn thing isnt quite the right shape, required some creative stretching and such to get the top part to fit)








Oh, and i figured out the cooling problem. The radiator top was higher than the coolant tank, so i relocated it (who really puts shoes in there anyway 😉)



I dunno if i have this shot up already, but i think i did a good job arranging things 😀


That's all for now! More pictures as i put the top back together, build the vss, replace the thermostat (well probably no pictures for that), put in a heater, seats, on... and on... and on... >