Aussieveedubbers · Tech Talk

Oil lamp comes on at low idle after engine warms up.

https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/87941/oil-lamp-comes-on-at-low-idle-after-engine-warms-up

benjicon ·

Hey guys,

New problems to tackle for the new year.. HOORAY!

Heres the scenario, Start the car up from cold, every thing is fine, drive for 30 mins, oil lamp starts to flutter on when I stop in traffic and let it idle, when I take off again lamp goes out, this continues to get worse as time goes on, if I am sat in traffic idling and I rev the engine, the lamp goes out, but I need to keep the revs up, this continues to decline to the point where no matter how many revs I give it the lamp stays on.

Needless to say I am not driving it much now this has started. If I have to, its only for short trips before the lamp starts coming on.

This started happening after I had it serviced 3 weeks ago, I know its an old motor and needs an overhaul soon, but could it be that the mechanic put too thin an oil in the motor for its age? (I think they put in a 20-50w).

For an old engine with worn bearings, rings and seals etc, would a thicker oil possibly remedy this problem?

I am hoping for a temporary solution that will get me by till I can afford to get the motor overhauled.

Thanks as always for any help.

Cheers.. Ben.

ian.mezz ·

I would check the oil level.
then a cheap thing to do is to change the oil to Valoline 20/60 for worn motors.

ian.mezz ·

O Yeah make sure the cooling fan is working, cause if the motor gets To hot the oil thins out to .

benjicon ·

Thanks mate,

Oil level is fine, pretty sure the fan is fine too, but I'll double check. Cheers.

waveman1500 ·

On my old tired engine I used to run Penrite HPR50, which is a 40W70 mineral oil with good additives for old worn engines. I found that the engine ran much happier on it, it quietened down the bearings so that they were no longer audible over the sound of the engine (!) and it ran very happily for a couple of years, including being thrashed in motorsport events. Your engine may have other problems, but I would definitely recommend trying a heavier oil if you think it's fairly well worn.

DylanTheDubber ·

Check the oil pressure put a gauge on the motor and find out if you got good pressure if that fine and the oil level is fine you got a problem on the wire.

From Dylan

benjicon ·

waveman1500 wrote:On my old tired engine I used to run Penrite HPR50, which is a 40W70 mineral oil with good additives for old worn engines. I found that the engine ran much happier on it, it quietened down the bearings so that they were no longer audible over the sound of the engine (!) and it ran very happily for a couple of years, including being thrashed in motorsport events. Your engine may have other problems, but I would definitely recommend trying a heavier oil if you think it's fairly well worn.
Thanks dude, the old girls definitely old and worn, its the OG 36hp that was removed and replaced by a newer motor, the og was serviced and put back in before i bought it... I dont think its ever been rebuilt.

I just read that Repco down the road has the Penrite 40-70. I'll shoot down tomorrow and get some and put it in, I cant see it doing any harm.

Cheers again mate.

Craig Torrens ·

you could always fit a 30mm oil pump to boost the pressure.😉

68AutoBug ·

benjicon wrote:Hey guys,

New problems to tackle for the new year.. HOORAY!

Heres the scenario, Start the car up from cold, every thing is fine, drive for 30 mins, oil lamp starts to flutter on when I stop in traffic and let it idle, when I take off again lamp goes out, this continues to get worse as time goes on, if I am sat in traffic idling and I rev the engine, the lamp goes out, but I need to keep the revs up, this continues to decline to the point where no matter how many revs I give it the lamp stays on.

Needless to say I am not driving it much now this has started. If I have to, its only for short trips before the lamp starts coming on.

This started happening after I had it serviced 3 weeks ago, I know its an old motor and needs an overhaul soon, but could it be that the mechanic put too thin an oil in the motor for its age? (I think they put in a 20-50w).

For an old engine with worn bearings, rings and seals etc, would a thicker oil possibly remedy this problem?

I am hoping for a temporary solution that will get me by till I can afford to get the motor overhauled.

Thanks as always for any help.

Cheers.. Ben.
it seems Your oil is too thin when its heated...
make sure the thermostat on the back fan is opened up..

I would also replace the oil sender... very cheap...

when the oil is thick it doesn't go thru the oil cooler until the oil gets thin and then the oil pressure releif valve allows the oil to flow thru the oil cooler...

thicker oil can't hurt... IMHO...

Here is a diagram of dual oil senders - You only have one...
so do I... lol number 1 in Diagram..

LEE
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2427960210050767931EyKmMr

matberry ·

Craig Torrens wrote:you could always fit a 30mm oil pump to boost the pressure.😉
Not in a 36'er....Doh!

Craig Torrens ·

matberry wrote:
Craig Torrens wrote:you could always fit a 30mm oil pump to boost the pressure.😉
Not in a 36'er....Doh!
Why not ?

Joel ·

One thing to consider seeing as it's the OG 36er is that bandaid fixes like thicker oil, bigger oil pimp etc just to keep it going that bit longer may turn around and bite you in the arse.

Memory is abit hazey on 36s but I'm sure the cam doesnt run in bearings, and if the case flogs out too much you may end up pushing it to beyond rebuilding which would be a shame seeing as the rest of the car seems very original too

Craig Torrens ·

^Agree.............if it was mine I would have stopped driving it well before now, like when the light first came on !

Oh and I don't know of anyone that can line bore the cases either, so if it gets "flogged out" its a throw away case 😠