I've been gathering bits and pieces for quite some time, and now just getting to put it all together.
68 bug, wrx engine/box, 18x10's and 8's, cage, seat....
The pan came from a hail damaged wreck from the Gold Coast about 10 years ago. Its a balljoint/irs. Had cookies on it at the time.
The body was bought a couple of years ago from a friend of mine.
I'll try and get the pics happening as quick as I can.
😂
guru ·
How do I get the bloody photo to show on this page?
I loose interest really quick with crap like this......
get pics up fast, about time you started a thread on yours :TU:
guru ·
Its been some time since I've added pics. I thought I was doing the same as before, but..... 🤪
guru ·
If everyone is happy to look at small pics I'll keep going.
I made moulds for fibreglass guards years ago for a guy with a car he raced, so I pulled them out and knocked out a set.
They are 100mm wider than stock - they're huge - too wide really, but it gives me a rough idea of what I'm after.
Not all that happy with the shape so I've decided to make new moulds for the rears at 75mm wider than stock, and fronts that are around 35mm wider than stock.
cam070 ·
Some nice handiwork in those fibreglass guards.
guru ·
Righto - here we go.....
To make new moulds I need to make new 'plugs' for the new wide guards.
So I had to destroy 2 complete sets of good stock guards - 8 guards total - 😠
As you can see the standard guard is a little narrow.
guru ·
Don't take any notice of that motor either. Its not for this project.
Get the saw and start cutting.... its only metal.... its only more work.....
guru ·
Set the 2nd guard over the 1st and screw it together. Lots of test fitting and measuring.
guru ·
Stretch some parts and shorten others to make the guard flow and look 'original' then weld it up.
As the plugs are never going on a car for good, I didn't worry about fully welding them. No need to waste time and materials there.
Not looking too bad I think.
barls ·
damn thats some wide guards. looks good though.
STIDUB ·
why not just run the metal guards? tiny pics but they look like they could work nicely..
Camo ·
You are very handing at making those guards and I can see a business opportunity to be selling a lot of fiberglass guards in the near future, if you want to go down that path.
Keep us up to date with any progress and well done.
Kev
Brad ·
Brad ·
guru ·
STIDUB - a couple of reasons for not using the metal guards.
Firstly, they weigh too much and that stretches the bolt flange on the guard. And I would have to spend many hours stretching and shinking the entire guard so there would be alot less filler.
Secondly, if one gets damaged I can lay up another and its done. Alot of time goes into making one-off panels and to pay someone to do it, or spending that time again myself, well, it would just piss me off. 'glass is the way to go.
Ahhh thats how its done!
Thanks Brad. Lets see if I can get these pics big....
guru ·
Next step is to smooth them out.
Then primer, and its rubbed back to an 800 grit finish.
I didn't bother with a top coat on these as the finished guard will be painted, not left as a gelcoat finish.
That's it - the plug is finished.
The guard has been bolted back on the car to give support to make the mould.
A coat of release agent is sprayed on and left to dry for around 20 minutes.
Next is tooling gelcoat which is sprayed and left to cure before the resin and matting is applied.
Guard is removed and th split flange is set up for moulding.
This makes the mould in 2 piece form which makes it easier to remove the product.
LUFTMEISTER ·
Nice to see a pro at work. Nice tooling up. 👍
waveman1500 ·
Very nice workmanship! I love the wide guards.
roofchop ·
Nice work Guru... now you have the moulds are you going to make them to order?
If so how much for a set? (front and rear)
Thanks
Dave
JVLRacing ·
good to see u on here mr brown😎
Dub_Life ·
Nice job so far the guards look awesome and love the wheels you chose, just wondering how you went fitting 10"s on the rear. Did you use alloy 944 arms and then what wheels and offset did you use? cheers
guru ·
Thanks for the comments guys.
JVL❗❗❗ How are you, sir?
The front guard plugs and moulds are made the same way as the rears.
While I was working on the front I decided to mount the radiator and fit a vent to the front valance.
This piece is the windscreen cowl plenum vent from a Volvo.
The vent had to be shortened to fit.
And there we have it. Welded in, dressed and ready for filler and primer.
guru ·
Here we see the front valance has been primed.
The front guards you see here are the 'plugs' for the moulds.
I painted these white to get some perspective of the shape when they're fitted to the car. Really hard to see the shape when they are in primer or painted in a flat finish.
I'm happy with the shape of the front plugs so I'll make the moulds then lay up a set. Should be good.
cam070 ·
You have some skills guru. Fantastic work.
JVLRacing ·
very nice mate....just let the rest of everyone know, ive purchase these guards...WORTH IT 😎
guru ·
Here's the finished mould for the left front guard.
While I have all the 'glassing gear out I thought I'd knock out a mould for these.
Eventually I hope to make kevlar and some carbon fibre panels with these moulds. Need a bit more equipment first and its not cheap!🙅
Ollie ·
From that last pic - is that a grey supra and a blue s14?
Could you indulge my ego and let me know?
Also, the car is looking GREAT!
Loving the front Mustache Grill
STIDUB ·
im also curious & guessing the same cars, curious whats in this shed 👍
guru ·
Don't look at the other junk in the shed. Its embarassing!
This is what is going to supply the motor, gearbox, ecu, fuel pump, some of its front mount intercooler pipes, front calipers, handbrake, and some other bits and pieces.
Anyone chasing parts/panels for their Subaru?
Dyno sheet that came with the car showed 205kw at 4 wheels. That will do me.
JVLRacing ·
😎 thats the go
mactaylor ·
no but how much for whats left?
Joel ·
Someone buy it and put a VW engine in 😂
Ollie ·
Come on! Is it a Supra and a S14 in one of those last pics? Or a Integra? Hah, sorry it's been playing on my mind 🙂
guru ·
Yes, ok. Its a Supra but the other is a pulsar.
Look closely at the pics and you'll see a Charger, another Supra,
S13, Karmann Ghia, Mustang, Soarer... like I said, all stuff ya dont want to see.
But look at this!!
The first set of guards to come out of the mould.
Fat but not. Still looks close to standard I think.
I'm happy with the look so far.👍
JVLRacing ·
😎lookin the goods mate...u runnin spacers with those rims
Ollie ·
A garage of Gods.
But back on track - the Guards look great! I agree with what you said - fat but not - Still retains a certain stock quality to it. Nice work!
guru ·
JVLRacing wrote:😎lookin the goods mate...u runnin spacers with those rims
Yep🙅
waveman1500 ·
Mate, those guards look absolutely awesome! Great work.
guru ·
Here's the interior when I got the car.
So I stripped out the pedals and was going to replace them with the subi hangers.
Did a fair bit of bodywork removal for a trail fit and didn't like them.
What a waste of time - trying to 'reinvent the wheel'.
So I've gone back to the stock set for now.
Also changed the shifter position. Up and back. This is a rough mockup - as is the seat position.
Sitting in the seat, the wheel, shifter.... all feels fast!
The seat is mounted at it lowest setting here.
I mounted the seat in its proper position, and sat in it with my race suit/boots to check the dash layout before cutting.
Ok. The old speedo hole was shifted to the centre so I retain a speedo, fuel guage and stock guage features.
Also the wiper and headlight switch remain as I can reach them when strapped in the seat.
I've also modified the ends of the dash to allow the front rollcage legs to follow snug against the windscreen pillars.
This will allow the stock window winder handles to be used.
Here the seat is in position and the new shifter support is mounted. Haven't decided on the style of guages yet so only the centres have been drilled for guage placement.
Dam nice seat JVL. Super snug fit. I like it lots!!
big_ash ·
Very nice what size tyres you running in the rear?
JVLRacing ·
Looks the goods so far mate....seat looks good in there!!! mate go Defi link guages😎
guru ·
big_ash wrote:Very nice what size tyres you running in the rear?
Rear tyre at the moment is a 265 35 18. Will be fitting 285's.
guru ·
JVLRacing wrote:Looks the goods so far mate....seat looks good in there!!! mate go Defi link guages😎
Man, those guages are too flash for me! They'd cause me to crash - watching them rather than the road...🙅
guru ·
I've stripped the 5 speed wrx box for the SubiGears conversion and to modify the housing.
Here the housing has been shortened and is ready for a blanking plate to be welded on.
Next step will be removing the body from the pan to make it easier for the mods necessary to fit the engine and box.
I had a look at the SubiGears site for info on the engine mount system they came up with. Does the job but a bit complicated.
So I made a call to Custom Offroad, since they have been fitting EJ motors to bugs, buses and buggies for years and asked for one of their DIY Subaru mount kits.
WOW! Simple, easy and fast to assemble and fit.
OldTimer ·
Wow! 🤪 A lot of work, and it looks to be very well done indeed.
I look forward to following your progress.
You could probably make a nice little business out of producing the widened guards too - it'd help cover your costs at least! 😀
I suppose all the work will have to be approved by engineers etc? Doesn't matter, I'm sure it'll pass - it looks fantastic so far.
Keep the updates coming.
Old Timer
Stinkbug ·
awsome.👍
lou0060 ·
looking great. can't wait to see this at the track, I assume it will be a track car given you're testing out stuff with your racing gear on??
what happened to the cookie cutters that came with the car???
I think you, Marcus and I need to get together soon.
keep up the great work.
guru ·
The new engine cradle and gearbox mounts are now fully welded and fitted to the chassis.
The engine and box are bolted together and fitted into the mounts.
Now I need to refit the body and check clearances to the rear valance and engine lid.
There will be an intercooler mounted to the inside of the firewall that will be feed fresh air via either naca ducts in the the 1/4 panel
glass or a scoop mounted into the 1/4 panel itself.
So the original cargo floor and firewall will be scrapped in favour of removable items.
JVLRacing ·
comin alive....😎
guru ·
UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE
I should show you the removable rear apron I guess.
This makes engine R&R a breeze.
Yes, this is NOT the wrx motor. Pics are from earlier in the year, but you get the idea.
The wrx motor is now fitted, and the rear apron has been trimmed to fit around the motor. I have managed to keep the rear bumper mounts in place as well. Also had to space the motor down a little so the cam covers will be under the engine lid.
Barnabie ·
Awesome work so far, can't wait to see this when its eventually finished. 👍
gerggl ·
Wow ...great job ...if Only I had your skills ...if only!!!
JVLRacing ·
lookin great mate....got some real good coils for motor if interested..😎
guru ·
Boy, did I get in trouble the other day....
Brother-in-law came over for a visit. While he was inside using the facilities I removed the front bar from his ve ss commondore and sat it infront of the bug.
mmmm I thought.
Next is when I got in trouble..... lots of!!!
🥲
mactaylor ·
sohc or turbo? dont do the bumper thing looks hot as is.
JVLRacing ·
guru wrote:Boy, did I get in trouble the other day....
Brother-in-law came over for a visit. While he was inside using the facilities I removed the front bar from his ve ss commondore and sat it infront of the bug.
mmmm I thought.
Next is when I got in trouble..... lots of!!!
🥲
mate i have a mould here like my one if interested
JVLRacing ·
guru wrote:The new engine cradle and gearbox mounts are now fully welded and fitted to the chassis.
The engine and box are bolted together and fitted into the mounts.
Now I need to refit the body and check clearances to the rear valance and engine lid.
There will be an intercooler mounted to the inside of the firewall that will be feed fresh air via either naca ducts in the the 1/4 panel
glass or a scoop mounted into the 1/4 panel itself.
So the original cargo floor and firewall will be scrapped in favour of removable items.
chop and move back even more,gearbox motor😎
guru ·
At this point, the plastic bar is.... well..... stuffed. I've drawn some lines and started cutting.
This bar is NOT going back to the VE.
Brother-in-law is NOT coming to visit again
I need to fill the area between the bonnet and top of the bar cover so the air flows over the front of the car.
The silver section is the lower part of a Subaru legecy rear bar. The exhaust cutouts line up pretty good with the headlights.
The photos dont do the 'look' justice.
IT LOOKS MEAN & TUFF in person.
I'll stuff around some more with different bar combiations to see what I can come up with.
All this happened because I went to a race meeting on the weekend and watched some buddies race.
But for now, it will have to wait. Doin some work for a friend at the moment on his kg.
DieSchnelleKafer ·
this is getting epic
beetleboy88 ·
My opinion. The VE bumber on a beetle, no good at all. Looks terrible